PERKINS
AGRICULTURAL LIBRARY

UNIVERSITY COLLEGE
SOUTHAMPTON

guttles tFtitrouut.

SOUTHAMPTON

UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

BOOK NUMBER

CLASS MARK

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litaiiM

1

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Dra-vm.&Eno-3:sEvpa(m Steal "by J. Sinwy.

EVERY MAN HIS OWN GARDENER.

THE

COMPLETE GARDENEK,

OB

GARDENER'S CALENDAR

OF WORK TO BE DONE IN THE

KITCHEN, FRUIT, FLOWER, FORCING GARDEN, &c.
JFov lEuevj) Jfclontl) in tije Year ;

CONTAINING

UIKKCTIONS FOR THE PROPAGATION AND CULTURE OF THE VARiOl/S
SORTS OF PLANTS, FLOWERS, SHRUBS, AND TREES;
AND

THE SOILS AND SITUATIONS ADAPTED TO THE VARIOUS SORTSi
WITH CLASSICAL LISTS OF

TREES, SHRUBS, PLANTS, AND FLOWERS

PROPER FOR CULTIVATION IN BRITISH GARDENS AND PLANTATIONS '■,
EXPLAINING THE NATURE OF GROWTH, PROPERTIES, AND MODE OF CULTURE OF
EACH VARIETY.

BY THOMAS MA WE AND JOHN ABERCROMBIE

fl E VISED AND IMPROVED,

WITH AN APPENDIX ON FORCING,
BY WILLIAM GOWANS, C M. H. S.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR THOMAS TEGG, 73, CHEAPSIDE

GRIFFIN k CO., GLASGOW; TEGG Si CO., DUBLIN.-
MDCCCXLtll/

ADVERTISEMENT.

The Reviser of the present Edition of this justly popular
Work, being prepared' for the task, not only by his own
practice and observation, but by having had his attention
directed to various more modern works on the same subject,
has seen no reason for making any considerable amend-
ments on the principles or details of Abercromby. The
general principles of Gardening, indeed, seem to be as cor-
rectly ascertained, and clearly described by that Author, as
by any that have succeeded him. In some of the details
of practice he is certainly somewhat antiquated ; and re-
garding the more important of these details, some improve-
ments will be found in the present Edition.

One of the objects of this Edition being to accommodate
the Work to the Scottish, as well as the English climate,
Notes have been added on the more important differ-
ences of management, resulting from the difference of
climate between the two kingdoms.

The style of Abercromby, though somewhat inelegant,
and in some instances, prolix, yet appears, upon the whole,
to be fully as concise and, at least, as correct and intelli-
gible as that of some of the more modern, and less original
of his successors. The present Edition, therefore, con-
tains few alterations relating merely to the style.

In some departments of the Forcing Gardsn only, does
Abercromby appear so considerably antiquated, as to render
a statement of modern practice in these departments, a
thing desirable in a new Edition of his Work. This desi-
deratum has been supplied in an Appendix on Forcing,
by the present Editor.

EVERY MAN

HIS OWN GARDENER.

JANUARY.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
PREPARATIONS FOR EARLY CROPS.

As early productions of several sorts of kitchen garden vege-
tables are in particular request, this is now the principal season
to begin to make preparations in forwarding that business,
whereby to raise the respective sorts required in early perfec-
tion, both by means of hotbeds, and by culture in the natural
ground.

But as some particular sorts of the more tender species are to
be obtained only by aid of hotbeds, such as cucumbers and
melons ; and others of more hardy nature, when in request in
the earliest season, require also the assistance of hotbeds, such
as sallading, radishes, asparagus, kidneybeans, peas, &c. ; that
where it is required to have any of these productions as early
as possible, should now proceed in forwarding, in preparation,
the necessary supplies of hot dung, rich earth, and other requi-
sites proper in their cultivation, by hotbeds accordingly, as
explained for each under its respective head.

And for several early natural crops in the full ground, should
now prepare warm borders, and other similar compartments, in
proper time for their reception, by manuring, where necessary;
with proper dung, and giving a general good digging, ready
for early peas, beans, radishes, spinach, &c. ; and for the parti-
culars of which, see each sort under its respective head, as
observed above in the hotbed articles.

EARLY CUCUMBERS AND MELONS.

As it is generally the ambition of most gardeners to excel
each other in the production of early cucumbers, &c, all neces-

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Jan.

sary preparations should be made this month for that purpose,
by preparing dung for hotbeds, in which to raise the plants ; for
they, being exotics of a very tender quality, require the aid of
artificial heat under shelter of frames and glasses, until June
or July, in this country.

But by the aid of hotbeds, defended with frames and glasses,
we obtain early cucumbers, in young green fruit, fit to cut or
gather in February, March, and April, &c, and ripe melons in
May, June, and July.

The proper sorts of cucumbers for the early crops are the
early short prickly, — long green prickly; and of which, the first
sort sometimes comes earliest ; but the last mentioned is con-
siderably the finest fruit, and greatly preferable for general
culture.

And if early melons are also required, there are several
varieties of the fruit : the Cantaleupe is. one of the best for its
handsome growth, good size, and superior flavour ; and is in
much estimation. But it may also be proper to raise some of
the others for variety ; the old Romana is a great bearer, comes
early, but the fruit much smaller, though well flavoured ; the
Polignac is also a fine melon ; but it may also be eligible to
raise two, three, or more of the best approved different sorts.

Observe, that in procuring these seeds for immediate sowing,
both of cucumbers and melons, it is advisable to have those of
two, three, or four years' old, if possible, as the plants will
generally show fruit sooner, as well as prove more fruitful, than
th'ose of new seeds, which are apt to run vigorously to vine,
often advancing in considerable length before they show a
single fruit.

That when intended to raise cucumbers and melons early,
provide a quantity of fresh horse stable dung, as explained be-
low, wherewith to make a small hotbed for a seedbed, in which
to raise the plants to a proper growth for ridging out, or trans-
planting into larger hotbeds next month, to remain to fruit ; for
this purpose a small bed" for a one or two-light frame may be
sufficient, in which case a good cart load of proper hot dung,
or about twelve or fifteen large wheelbarrows full, will be
enough for making a bed of proper dimensions for a one-light
box, and so in proportion for a larger.

Agreeably to these intimations, provide the requisite supply
of good horse stable dung from the dunghills in stable yards,
&e.. consisting of that formed of the moist stable litter and
dunging of the horses together, choosing that which is model?

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

3

ately fresh, moist, and full of heat, rejecting any very dry,
long strawy, and exhausted parts, always preferring that which
is of some lively, warm, steamy quality ; and of which take the
long and short together as it occurs, in proper quantity, as
above. And being thus procured, proceed to making the hot-
bed, or, previously to forming it into a bed, if the dung is rank,
it would be proper to prepare it a little to an improved state,
more successful for that purpose, by forking the whole- up into
a heap, mixing it well together ; and let it thus remain eight,
ten, or twelve days, to ferment equally, and for the rank steam
and fierce heat to transpire or evaporate in some effectual de-
gree, and by which time it will have acquired a proper tem-
perament for making into a hotbed.

Choose a place on which to make the hotbed, in a sheltered,
dry part of the melon ground, &c, open to the morning and
south sun ; and it may be made either wholly on the surface of
the ground, or in a shallow trench, of but from six to twelve
inches deep, and four or five feet wide, according to the frame ;
but if made entirely on the surface, which is generally the most
eligible method at this early season, it affords the opportunity
of lining the sides of the bed with fresh hot dung quite down
to the bottom, to augment the heat when it declines, and also
prevents wet from settling about the bottom of the beds, as
often happens when made in a trench, which chills the dung,
and causes the heat soon to decay.

Then, according to the size of the frame, mark out the
dimensions of the bed, either on the ground or with four stakes,
making an allowance for it to be two or three inches wider than
the frame each way ; this done, begin to make the bed accor-
dingly, observing to shake and mix the dung well, as you lay
it on the bed, and beat it down with the back of the fork, as
you go on : but I would not advise treading it ; for a bed which
is trodden hard will not work so kindly, and be more liable to
burn than that which is suffered to settle gradually of itself : in
ttiis manner proceed till the bed has arrived at the height of
from four to five feet, which will not be too much ; making an
allowance for its settling six or eight inches, or more, in a week
or fortnight's time ; but let it be full three feet high ,- and as
soon as finished, let the frame and glass be put on ; keep them
close till the heat comes up, then raise the glass behind, that
the steam may pass away.

The next thing to be' observed, is about earthing the bed in
which to sow the seed : and for which occasion, should have a

4

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Jan.

proper supply of rich, light, dry earth, or compost, ready at
(his season, under some airy, dry shed, or hovel, covered at top
lo keep out rain, that the earth may be properly dry ; for if too
moist or wet at this time, it would prove greatly detrimental,
Doth to the growth of the seed and young plants, as well as be
very apt to cake and burn at bottom, next the dung, by the
strong heat of the bed : therefore observing, that for early hot-
oeds of cucumbers and melons, should generally deposit a
necessary quantity of proper earth, under some cover, as above,
either the beginning of winter, or at least a fortnight or three
or four weeks previous to making the hotbed, in order to have
it in the dry, mellow state above-mentioned, ready for immediate
use when wanted.

Three or four days after the bed is made, prepare to earth
it, previously observing if it has settled unequally ; take off the
frame and glasses, and level any inequalities ; make the surface
smooth, put on the frame again, and then lay- therein as much
of the above-mentioned earth as will cover the whole top surface
of the bed, about three or four inches thick ; then fill two,
three, or more middling smallish garden pots with more of the
aforesaid rich earth, place them within the frame on the hotbed,
put on the glass or glasses, and continue them till the earth in
the pots is warm ; and when that is effected, sow the seeds in
the pots, both of cucumbers and melons, each separately, more
or less in each pot, according to the quantity of plants required ;
but generally considerably more of cucumbers than melons, at
this season, covering in the seeds about half an inch deep with
the same earth.

This done, place the pots towards the middle of the bed,
plunging the bottom part a little into the earth, drawing some
of the same up round each pot ; at the same time, or in two or
three days after, may sow a few seeds in the earth of the bed,
to have a chance both ways ; but by sowing in pots, if the bed
should heat too violently, as is sometimes unavoidably the case,
the pots can be readily drawn up more or less, out of danger of
burning the earth, &c. therein ; and thus the sowing in pots, in
a new made hotbed, in full heat, may prove a greater advantage
than sowing in the earth of the bed, with regard to more pro-
bable safety from burning.

After sowing the seeds, put on the lights or glasses close ;
but when the steam, from the heat of the bed, rises copiously,
give it vent by raising one corner of the upper ends of the
lights half an inch, or an inch ; which is also necessary, in order

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

5

to prevent any burning tendency from the great heat of the bed
in its early state.

Continue now to cover the glasses of the hotbed every even-
ing, about an hour at most, after the time of sunsetting, with
garden mats ; and uncover them every morning, not sooner
than between eight and nine o'clock, at this season ; and ob-
serve, in covering up in the evening, that as the bed will at
first have a strong heat and steam within the frame, it may be
advisable to cover only a single mat thick for the first three or
four nights, as a thicker covering in the early state of the bed
might be apt to occasion a too violent internal heat and steam
of a burning nature ; but as the great heat decreases, augment
the covering, being careful not to suffer the ends of the mats to
hang down considerably below the frame, over the sides of the
bed, which would draw up a hurtful strong steam from the
dung, as well as confine the steam and heat too much, and keep
the bed too, stiflingly close from the external air, which would
weaken the germination or sprouting of the seed, and the plants
would come up weak, and of a sickly, yellowish hue : observe,
therefore, these and the following precautions, in order both to
"irevent too great heat in the bed, and that the plants may rise
with a proper degree of strength and healthful growth.

Likewise observe, on the above considerations, that in cover- .
ing up, or applying the night covering of mats over the glasses,
during the time the strong heat and steam continue in the bed,
it would be proper, when the mats are put on in the evening,
to raise the upper ends of the glass or glasses half an inch, or a
little more or less, occasionally, both to give vent to the inter-
nal rank steam, and to admit a moderate degree of fresh air ;
and which may fasten one of the covering mats to hang down
a little over the part where the lights are occasionally opened,
to prevent the cutting external air from rushing immediately
into the frame, especially after the plants are advancing.

Great care is requisite, that the earth in the pots have not too
much heat, for the bed is yet very hot, and therefore let the
degree of internal heat in the bed be daily examined ; and if
anything of burning should appear, you can conveniently raise
the pots farther from the dung, from which the danger pro-
ceeds, without disturbing the seeds or plants, and thereby pre-
vent all injury from too much heat, provided you examine the
bed every day, and give proper vent to the rank steam within
the frame, while of a burning quality.

In tiro, three, or four days after the seed is sowh, you may

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Jan.

pxpect the plants to appear ; when it will be proper to admit
fresh air to them, by raising the upper end of the glass a little
every day ; and if the earth in the pots appear dry, refresh it
moderately with a little water that has stood in the bed all
night, just to take off the cold chill ; applying it about eleven
or twelve o'clock of the day, and principally only to the earth
about the roots, not over the tops of the plants ; which done,
shut down the glasses close for about half an hour or an hour ;
then open again a little, and shut close towards the evening ;
when continue to cover the glass every night with garden mats.
And at this time also, if the heat of the bed is strong, raise the
glass a little behind with a prop, when you cover up in the
evening, to give vent to the steam ; and nail a mat to hang
down over the end of the glass that is raised, to break off the
sharp edge of the external cold night air from the plants ; but
when the heat is more moderate, the glasses maj' be shut close
every night, observing to uncover in proper time every morn-
ing, to admit the essential benefit of the daylight, sun, and air
to the plants ; being careful to continue the admission of fresh
air at all opportunities in the daytime, to promote strength in
the plants, otherwise they would run weak, and very long and
feeble-shanked ; raising the glass as before observed, and if
windy or very sharp air, to hang a mat before the place, as
above.

On the day that the plants appear, sow a little more seed in
the same bed, in the manner above-mentioned ; for these tender
plants being liable to suffer by different causes at this season, it
is proper, therefore, to sow a little seed at three different times
in the same bed, at short intervals ; for if one sowing should
miscarry, another may succeed..

When the plants, ho.wever, both of the first and succeeding
sowings, are two, three, or four days old, they should be
planted in small pots, which pots must be placed also in the
hotbed, in the manner following.

Observe to fill the pots, the day before you intend to remove
the plants, with some rich, dry earth, and set them within the
frame till the next day, when the earth in the pots will be
warm ; then, proceeding to planting, take the plants carefully up
in the seed pots, raising them with your finger, &c, with all the
roots as entire as possible, and with as much of the earth as
will readily adhere about the fibres ; and thus, the pots of earth
being ready, and forming the earth thereof a little concavely
hollow a small depth, place the plants in the hollowed part oi

Jan.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

7

the earth slopingly, with their roots towards • the centre, and.
earth over their roots and stems, near an inch thick ; observing,
if cucumbers, to plant three plants in each pot ; if melons, two
plants in each pot will be sufficient ; and if the earth is quite dry,
give a very little water just to the roots of the plants only, and
directly plunge the pots into the earth on the bed, close to one
another, filling up all the spaces between with earth : and let
every part of the bed within the frame be covered with as much
earth as will prevent the rising of the rank steam immediately
from the dung, which would destroy the plants.

Be careful to examine the bed every day, to see that the
roots of the plants do not receive too much heat : if anything
like that appears, draw up the pots a little, or as far as you see
necessary for the preservation of the plants, replunging them
again to their rims when the danger is over.

Two or three days after planting, if the bed is in good con-
dition, the plants will have taken root ; though that is effected
sometimes in twenty-four hours.

When the plants are fairly rooted, if the earth appears dry,
give them a little water in the warmest time of the day ; and if
the sun shines it will prove more beneficial : let the watering
be occasionally repeated very moderately, according as the earth
in the pots becomes dry, and appears in want of a little mois-
ture ; and for this purpose, always have some soft water set
within the frame a few hours, to be ready to water the plants
as you shall see occasion ; but always with very great cautious
moderation at this season.

If there is now a brisk growing heat in the bed, you should,
in order to preserve -it as long as possible, apply some outward
protection of long stable litter, straw, waste hay, or dried fern,
round the sides of the bed, raising it by degrees round the out-
sides of the frame.

This will defend the beds from the cold piercing wind, heavy
or driving rains, and snow, if either should happen ; for these,
if suffered to come at the bed, would chill it, and cause a sud-
den decay of the heat, whereby the plants would certainly re-
ceive a great check.

If a lively heat be kept up, you may admit air to tne plants
every day, to strengthen their growth, by tilting the glasses in
proportion to the heat of the bed, and temperature of the ex-
ternal air : generally observing, in this case, that when there
happens a sharp cold air, or cutting wind, it would still be
advisable to nail a garden mat to the upper end of the glasses,

8

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

to hang down over the place where the air is admitted, sup-
ported a little hollow or detached underneath, two or three
inches from the frame ; and it will thus break off and prevent
the cutting external air from entering immediately into the
frame upon the plants, and at the same time admit a proper
degree of mild fresh air to greater advantage ; however, in calm,
moderate weather, this precaution is not materially necessary.

About a fortnight, or a little more or less time, after the bed
is made, you will carefully examine the heat thereof, to see if
it wants augmentation ; and when the heat begins to decline
considerably, remove the temporary protection of straw, hay,
or fern, from the front and back of the bed, if any was laid
round it, as before advised ; then apply a lining of fresh horse-
.dung, close to one or both sides, as it shall seem necessary, by
the heat being less or more decreased ; for a constant regular
degree of internal heat must be supported, to resist the external
cold, and continue the plants in a proper state of advancing
growth : but if the heat is not greatly declined, it would be
advisable to line only one side first, applying it to the back of
the bed ; and in a week or fortnight after, line the front, &c,
forming the lining about twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches
wide ; but raise it very little higher than the dung of the bed,
lest it throw in too much heat immediately to the earth and
roots of the plants, covering the top with earth two inches
thick, to preserve the heat, and prevent the rank steam of the
new dung from coming up and entering into the frame, where
it would prove destructive to the plants ; the lining will soon
greatly revive the declining heat of the bed, and continue it in
good condition a fortnight longer.

Ten or twelve days after lining one side, proceed as before,
removing the protection of straw, litter, &c, if any, from the
other side, and apply a lining of hot dung, as above ; afterwards
to both ends ; and these will again revive and augment the
heat for another fortnight, or more.

After performing the lining, if very cold, wet, or snowy
weather prevail, it may be proper to lay a quantity of dry, long
litter all around the general lining, which will protect the whole
from driving cold rains and snow, and preserve the heat of the
bed in a fine growing temperature.

By applying these linings of hot dung in due time, and re-
newing them as there shall be occasion, you may preserve the
bed in a proper temperature of heat, of sufficient duration to
continue the plants in a free growing state in the same bed.

Jan,]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

9

iintil of due size for ridging out into the larger hotbeds, finally
to remain to produce their fruit.

Observe, however, that where there is plenty of hot dung,
and every proper convenience, you may, in order to forward
the plants as much as possible, prepare a second hotbed, by way
of nursery, about a fortnight after making the seedbed, in order
to receive the plants therefrom in their pots, when the heat
oegins to decline, plunging the pots in the earth, as above
directed ; continuing to support the heat of this bed, as already
explained, and in which the plants may be nursed and forward-
ed, till they acquire a proper size for transplanting finally into
the fruiting hotbeds. See next month.

When the plants have advanced in growth with their two
first rough leaves, about two or three inches broad, and have
pushed their two first running buds in the centre, or are a little
advanced in the formation of one or two short runners, they
are then of a proper size for ridging out into the large hotbeds
where they are finally to. remain, which perform in proper time,
according to the directions given in February, under the article
Cucumbers.

But in order to strengthen the plants in a more firm, stocky
growth, and to promote a production of fruitful runners, each
plant must be stopt (as the gardeners term it), or topped at the
first or second joint : i. e. the top of the first advancing runner,
when formed in the centre like a small bud, should be pinched
or cut off close to the joint, as directed, in February (which see),
where the method of performing it is more fully explained.

CARE OF THE VARIOUS SORTS OF LETTUCES.

If you have lettuce plants in frames, or under hoop-arches
defended with mats, let them enjoy the open air at all oppor-
tunities, by taking the glasses, or other shelters, entirely off,
when the weather is mild and dry.

But in very wet weather, and when sharp cutting winds
prevail, keep the glasses over them, observing, however, at such
times, to raise the lights or glasses behind, two or three inches
in mild days, to admit air to the plants ; for if they are kept
too close, they will be drawn up weak, and attain to but little
perfection ; but let the glasses be close shut every cold night.
In severe frosty weather, keep them close night and day, and
cover the glasses with mats, or straw, &c, both of nights, and
occasionally in the daytime, if no sun appears, and the frost is
rigorous ; also let the same care be observed to those under
A 2

10

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Jan.

hoop-arches ; but let them have the full air in dry open
weather.

Or where any Cos lettuce are pricked in a south border,
close under the wall, &c, it would be advisable, in hard frost,
to cover them as above.

In the above lettuce, in general, pick off all decayed leaves
when any appear, keep them always cleared from weeds ; and
destroy slugs, which often greatly annoy lettuces; and in mild
weather stir the surface of the earth between, which will much
enliven the plants.

SOWING LETTUCES.

About the first or second week, or any time in this month,
if the weather is open, you may sow some green and white Cos
ettuce, common cabbage lettuce, brown Dutch and Cilicia
kinds, &c, all on a warm border, under a south wall or pales,
&c, a little sloping to the sun, sowing the seeds moderately
thick at this season, and raked lightly and evenly into the
ground.

Sow a little more of the same seed about the middle and
latter end of this month, in order both to succeed the crops
sown at the beginning, and as a substitute in case they should
be cut off by the severity of the weather at this season of the
year ; but for the greater certainty of having a few forward
ettuce, you may sow a little seed in a dry warm spot, de-
fended with a frame, and put on the glasses occasionally ; or
sow some under hand-glasses.

But when required to raise some early lettuce as forward as
Dossible, you may sow some green and white Cos kinds, in a
slender hotbed under glasses, or. occasional shelter of mats, for
planting out early into warm borders ; or the young plants may
be greatly forwarded if pricked upon another hotbed next
month, and in March or April transplanted into the full ground

FORCING EARLY ASPARAGUS.

Hotbeds for forcing asparagus may be made with success
any time this month, which will furnish young asparagus for
the table next month, and in March.

Observing, for this occasion you must be furnished with
plants that have been raised in the natural ground till of three
or four years' growth, of a proper size and strength to produce
eligible crops of good-sized asparagus shoots, when planted in a
notbed ; and must be provided with plenty of good hot dung,

Jan.] the kitchen garden. 1 1

wherewith to make substantial hotbeds, two feet and a half or
a yard high, and with proper large frames and glasses to place
on the beds, and garden mats for covering of nights, &c.

But for general particulars of the plants, and the necessary
quantity, as well as of the hotbed, and other requisites, see the
article Forcing Asparagus, in February, which is equally ap-
plicable on the present occasion.

SOWING RADISHES.

In the beginning, or any time this month, when the weathet
is open, sow some short-topped radishes for an early crop, on a
warm border, that lies well to the sun, under a wall or othei
fence ; and about the middle or latter end of the month you
may sow more of the same sort, and some salmon radishes, to
succeed the short tops.

But you should not mix the seed of both sorts together, but
let each sort be sown separate ; for the short-topped kind will
come into use sooner by a week than the salmon radish, even
if both are sown at the same time ; besides, the latter runs
more to leaves than the former.

The surest method is, to sow a little of the short-topped kind
at least twice this month : therefore, if you sow in the beginning
or middle, sow some more towards the latter end of the month,
in a similar warm situation

Or towards the latter end of the month, if mild open wea-
ther, may sow a larger supply of the short tops, for a more
general crop ; and in which, if thought convenient, may scatter
a small sprinkling, either of carrots or round-leaved spinach and
lettuce, to come in after the radishes are drawn off; though, as
it is advisable to sow the radishes pretty thick at this season, it
would be rather more eligible to sow them entirely alone, with-
out intermixture of any other crops.

You should sow the radish seeds pretty thick at this season ;
for when the plants begin to appear, the weather, if it should
prove sharp, will cut off some, and the birds too, being apt to
attack them, will destroy many : sow the seed evenly over the
surface, and either rake.it in with a large wide-toothed rake,
or, if sown in beds, cover it with fine earth from the alleys,
half an inch deep : then observing, especially in appearance" of
frost, or even in mild weather, it will be of much advantage to
spread some clean, dry straw, or dry, long litter, over the sur-
face, two inches thick, which will keep the ground warm, resist
the frost, and greatly forward the germination of the seed.

12 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jm,

Likewise when the plants begin to come up, continue to
protect them from the frost and birds, by spreading straw, &c,
as above, dry fern, or large garden mats, over the surface, to
remain till they are fairly above ground, then uncovered every
mild day, covered at night, and always when frosty weather ;
using a pitchfork, &c, in spreading on the straw covering, and
a light wooden or other rake to draw it off into the alleys,
where it must be permitted to lie, to be ready to spread over
the plants every night, and even in the day, when there is oc-
casion, on account of severe frost, which, however, should always
be done every evening, especially when there is an appearance
of frost, but must be taken off every day in mild weather;
which work of covering early radishes should be continued oc-
casionally, until the plants are advanced at least two or three
weeks more in growth, according to the temperature of the
season j or generally till they have formed the second or rough
leaves in the centre in the course of the following month ; but
in default of Utter or straw for this purpose, may cover with
garden mats, first having a quantity of wooden pegs stuck into
the ground slantways, two inches above the surface, to keep
the mats a little detached from the radishes : both of which
methods of covering early radishes are the general practice of
the London gardeners, who thereby have them ready to draw
for market plentifully in March.

But in order to have radishes as early as possible, recourse
may be had to the assistance of hotbeds ; therefore, any time
in this month, make a moderate hotbed for one or- more garden
frames, of only about two feet depth of dung, sufficient just to
promote the early germination of the seed, and forward the
plants moderately, without running them up long-shanked, &c.
When the bed is made, set on the frame; lay in about six
inches' depth of good light garden earth ; then having some seed
of the best early dwarf short-topped radish, sow it evenly on
the surface, press it into the earth with the back of a spade, and
cover it half an inch deep with light mould, and put on the
glasses.

When the plants appear, give them a large share of air, either
by taking the glasses, &c, entirely off in open mild weather, or
tilting them up high at one end, as the weather shall permit,
otherwise they will draw or run up long-shanked, and be
spoiled ; and after the plants have been up a few ^days, thin
them regularly with your hand, where they stand too' thick, and
leave the strongest plants standing not less than an inch asunder.

Jan.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

13

Support ■& gentle heat in the bed, when it declines, by applying
a moderate lining of hot dung.

Some of the same seed may be sown on a warm spot in the
common ground, and covered with a frame, or awning, &c.
These will come in at a very acceptable season.

CARROTS.

If the weather is open and dry about the beginning, or any
time of this month, let a warm spot of ground be prepared for
a few early carrots : dig the ground a full spade deep, and break
the earth well as you go on.

But this is only intended for a few to come in a little before
the general crop; therefore, only a small compartment of
ground should be prepared for this purpose. . Choose a dry
mild day to sow the seed, and let it be raked in as soon as sown.

In some families young carrots are required as early as pos-
sible, and they may be forwarded by sowing the seed in a
moderate hotbed.

Make the hotbed about two feet thick of dung, and procure
some light, rich, dry earth, which lay six inches thick on the
bed. • Sow the seed thinly on the surface, and cover it with the
same kind of earth a quarter of an inch deep.

When the plants come up, let them enjoy the free air in
mild weather, and cover them in cold nights, whilst young ; and
when an inch or two high, thin them to about three inches
asunder; and you will thus have young spring carrots for
drawing in April and May.

SPINACH.

. Any time in this month, if open weather, you may sow a
little spinach to come in early in the spring ; at which time it
will be very acceptable in most families. The smooth-seeded,
or rpund-leaved kind, is the best to sow at this season, for early
spring and summer spinach in April and May, the leaves being
large, more thick and succulent than the triangular spinach ;
though, as the latter is hardiest, it may be proper to sow also
some of that sort at this early season.

The first seed may be sown about the beginning of this
month, and a little more about the middle or towards the latter
end, in order to be more certain of a crop, and to have a
regular succession ; sow it either broad-cast, and rake it in, or
in flat shallow drills, drawn with a hoe, an inch deep and a foot
asunder, or in drills between rows of early beans .or cabbages,'&c.

14

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Jan.

SMALL SALADING.

Make a slight hotbed, in which to sow the different sorts of
small salading, that will not now endure the open air at this
season of the year, such as cresses, mustard, radish, and rape,
to cut while young.

The hotbed for these seeds need not be more than about
eighteen inches or two feet thick of dung, and must be covered
with a frame and glasses. The earth must be light and dry,
and laid about four to five or six inches thick on the bed ; then
either let small shallow flat drills be drawn from the back to
the front of the bed ; sow the seed therein, each sort sepa-
rately, and very thick, covering them not more than a quarter
of an inch deep with earth ; or if but just covered is sufficient,
and the plants will rise more expeditious and regular ; or the
seed may be sown thick all over the surface of the bed, each
sort separate; smooth it down with the spade, then sift as
much light earth over as will just cover it, as above observed,
and directly put on the glasses : or, in want of frames and
<ights, may use hand-glasses, observing in general to cover the
glasses every night, and severe frosty weather, with mats or
straw, litter, &c.

As soon as the plants appear, give them air plentifully, by
raising the glasses on props ; otherwise they will mould or fog,
and spoil as fast as they come up.

It must be remembered, that where a regular succession of
these small herbs is required for salad, should repeat the sow-
ings, at least once a fortnight.

If you have not hot dung to spare to make hotbeds for this
purpose, may sow in a sloping bed of natural earth, under a
shallow garden frame, covered with glasses : allotting for this
occasion some warm compartments of rich earth in the full sun :
preparing it in a sloping manner fronting the south, a foot
Higher on the north side than in front. Set a frame thereon,
sinking the back part, &c, so as to have the whole surface of
the earth within six or eight inches of the glasses ; sow the
salading, put on the glasses, covering them of nights and bad
weather, as above, and you need not doubt of success ; though,
generally, in severe frosty weather, a hotbed will always prove
the most effectually successful on this occasion.

Jan.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

15

MINT, TANSY, &c.

Make a small hotbed for some mint, when it is required at
an early season in young green shoots, for salads and mint
sauce, &c. A bed for a small or middling garden frame, of one
or two lights, may be sufficient for supply of a moderate family ;
but where larger supplies are required, have the hotbed more
extensive in proportion, and in general about two feet thick of
dung ; then set on the frame, and lay about four or five inches'
depth of earth on the bed, ready for planting.

Then having some roots of common spear-mint, place them
upon the surface, pretty thick, and cover them with earth about
an inch and a half deep ; or may place the roots in drills, and
draw the earth over them.

The mint will appear in about a week or fortnight, and will
be in fine order for mint sauce, &c, and either to use alone as
a salad, or to mix among other small herbs.

By the same means may obtain green tansy and tarragon.

PARSLEY.

Sow some parsley-seed, if open weather, about the middle,
or towards the latter end of this month.

There being two sorts, the common plain-leaved, and the
curled-leaved, the latter is preferable, the leaves being large,
thick, and bushy, and is in much request for garnish to dishes,
though both sorts are eligible as pot-herbs, &c. Let the seeds
be sown, each sort separate, in any dry ground, in shallow drills
nine inches asunder, and covered in with earth about a quarter
of an inch deep.

Or these seeds may be sown in a single drill along the edges
of the kitchen garden quarters or borders.

As this seed sometimes lies five or six weeks before it grows,
that which is sown now will be forwarding in vegetation, to
come up soon in the spring.

CAULIFLOWERS.

Look over, in open weather, the frames of cauliflower plants
which were raised and planted in frames last autumn for pro-
tection in winter, to plant out in spring for the principal sum-
mer crops ; and where withered or damaged leaves appear, let
them be picked off, and suffer no weeds to grow among them,
and stir the surface gently between, which will enliven and
cherish the plants.

\ (j THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [JAN.

In open weather, let the plants have pienty of air every day,
by raising the glasses, or by taking them entirely off when the
weather is mild and dry ; but generally continue the glasses
over in rainy weather : and keep them close down every cold
night, and do not open them at all in frosty weather.

In very severe weather, cover the glasses every night with
mats, straw, or fern, &c. ; also, if there be occasion, in the
daytime, in very rigorous frost, and no sun ; likewise, in such
weather, lay some litter round the outsides of the frame, for
this will be very serviceable in preventing the frost from enter-
ing at the sides.

Cauliflowers under hand or bell-glasses must also have air
every mild day, by raising the glasses two or three inches on
the warmest side ; in sharp weather keep them close ; in severe
frost lay some litter round each glass ; this will protect the
plants greatly: but in mild dry weather the glasses may be
taken off every day for four or five hours ; and in quite mild
weather, let the glasses remain tilted also in nights, to admit
full air, to prevent their drawing up weak, or running into
flower, at an improper growth ; but they must be kept close
every cold night.

As slugs often annoy these plants in mild winters, you
should search for them occasionally, to prevent their depreda-
tions.

You may now sow a small portion of cauliflower seed towards
the end of this month, in a hotbed, to succeed the winter-
standing plants, or as occasional substitutes, in case these should
be killed by the frost, or that none were raised last autumn to
stand the winter, as above. See February.

PLANTING OUT CABBAGE PLANTS.

When the weather is open, prepare some ground for cabbage
plants ; let some rotten dung be laid on the ground, which
should be well dug one spade deep, and the dung properly
buried in the bottom of the trenches.

Towards the latter end of the month, if the weather is mild
and the plants strong, a moderate quantity may be transplanted,
observing to plant them about two feet and a half asunder, or
some only half that distance when designing to cut the cabbages
while young, in a thinning order.

The sugar-loaf, early Yorkshire, and Battersea cabbage, are
proper for this season ; but any of the larger sorts may likewise
be planted at this time.

Jan.] the kitchen garden. 1 7

Towards the latter end of the month make good thf> plants
in the former plantations that have been destroyed by the
severity of the weather and the vermin.

On the ground where cabbages are planted now or in the
spring, if you are stinted for ground, you may sow a small crop
of spinach in single drills between the wider rows ; which, if
sown now, will be fit to gather off in April and May.

TRANSPLANTING CABBAGES, &c. FOR SEED.

Transplanting cabbages and savoys, &c. for seed : this work
should be done generally in November or December: but
where it was omitted in these months, it may still be done : if the
weather will permit, let it be done in the beginning of the month.

The method of preparing and planting them is this : — .

For the purpose of saving seed, let some of the largest and
best full-grown cabbages, &c. be taken up in a mild dry day,
and divest them of the large outer leaves : and if they appear
wet, place them with the heads downward a day or two, to
drain off any moisture before planted, to prevent their rotting;
ox, in default of full cabbages, may use cabbage stalks, furnished
with good full heads of strong sprouts, as they will answer the
same purpose, both in regard to the goodness of the seed and
its produce.

Let a dry open compartment of ground, exposed to the full
sun and free air, be chosen for planting them ; and the readiest
method is to plant them in trenches, as you dig the ground :
and the plants should be allowed two or three feet distance
each way.-

Dig the ground a full spade deep, and keep the trenches
clear and wide. When you have advanced with the digging
two feet from the end, then with the spade cut the edge of the
trench even on the side that is dug, and somewhat perpendi-
cularly downward to the bottom ; then set the cabbages in the
trench, in a similar position, close to the dug ground, and two
feet asunder, with the bottom of their heads a little within the
surface : and having planted one row, proceed again with the
digging, laying the ground against their stalks and. roots, and
round the bottom of each head ; continuing with the digging-
till advanced two or three feet from the row of plants ;■ then
prepare the trench as before, and plant another row in the same
manner, and so proceed till the whole is planted. They will
shoot up into stalks in the spring, for flower and seed which
will ripen in August following.

18

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Jan.

EARTHING UP CELERY.

When the weather is open, take advantage of a dry day, be-
fore setting in of frost, to earth up such celery that requires it
in being advanced to some considerable length above the
ground.

Let the earth be well broken, and laid up to the plants lightly,
that they may not be broken down or bruised, raising the earth
very near the top of the plants : for if severe frosts set in, it
would destroy, or at least greatly damage, such parts as are
above ground, which, if of any considerable length, and happen
to be killed by the weather, would occasion a great part of that
within the earth to decay or rot downward.

In some families these plants are required every day ; but if
the ground is frozen hard, you cannot easily take them up :
therefore, at the approach of severe weather, either cover some
of the rows with dry long litter, which will prevent the ground
from being frozen, and will also protect the plants ; or, at the
approach of severe weather, there may, for the service of a
family, be a quantity of the plants taken up in a dry day : carry
them into some sheltered place, and there lay them in dry earth
or sand, as far as their white or blanched part.

In dry open weather let some of the best full grown endive
be prepared for blanching, taking opportunity of a dry day,
when the plants are also dry, and tie the leaves of each plant
together ; they will be blanched for use in a fortnight, proper
for salads, soups, stewing, &c.

Likewise may transplant or plunge endive into a raised
sloping ridge or bank of dry earth, for blanching more securely
from wet or frost, by which the endive, in blanching, is often
apt to rot at this season, when tied up as it remains in the
common level ground ; though the plants are not always secure,
even when laid into a raised ridge or bank of earth, unless
under cover of some shelter from the weather ; however, a
quantity may be tried different ways, occasionally, for the sup-
ply of a family.

One method is, to prepare, in a dry warm situation, a raised
ridge or bank of light loose earth, as dry as possible, fronting
the sun, two or three feet high, the front in a steep slope, to
run off the falling rain, &o. ; then, drawing up a quantity of
full grown endive in a dry day, and if rather wet in the heart,
place them, top downward, in a covered dry place for a day or

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

19

two, to drain off the moisture ; this done, proceed to deposit
the endive into the steep sloping side of the bank of earth,
gathering or tying the leaves of each plant up close together,
arid plunge them horizontally into the earth, moderately close
to one another, so as the ridge may contain a sufficient quantity.

After being thus deposited, give occasional protection from
frost, snow, and heavy rains, either by placing a frame, &c.
over, or a thick covering of long straw litter ; and thus the
endive will sometimes blanch in tolerable perfection.

Or, for the greater certainty of blanching and preserving
good endive at this season, there may be laid a quantity of light
dry earth, or sand, into any dry shed, or other covered place,
in a high ridge or round heap, and so bury the endive therein,
as above ; or lay some dry earth, or old tan, in a deep garden
frame, in a ridge, and in which plunge your endive ; and when
the weather is frosty or wet, the glasses may be put on, and
other covering if necessary ; by this method you may obtain
good endive in the severest season, provided care be taken to
lay in a quantity at the first appearance of hard frosts. One
frame will contain a great many plants.

But with respect to the endive that is growing in the open
ground, it is proper, in severe frosty weather, to cover some of
the best plants, with any kind of dry long litter ; but must be
immediately removed in mild weather, to prevent putrefaction.

BEANS.

In the beginning of this month, if the weather is open, let
some ground be got ready for a main crop of broad beans. The
principal large sorts are,

Sandwich bean, toker bean, Windsor bean, broad Spanish
bean, broad long-podded bean.

The Sandwich bean is an excellent sort, and may be planted
the first week in this month, if the weather permits ; also the
toker bean, which is very fine, and a good bearer. Let the
rows be three feet distant from each other, and set the beans
either by a blunt-ended dibble two or three inches deep, or
drill them in that depth, and about three or four inches asunder
m the rows.

Some Windsor beans may be planted about the same time ;
and the first mam crop may be planted about the middle, or
towards the latter end of the month. Let the rows be a yard
asunder, and plant the beans four or five inches apart in the

20

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

tows, as the plants of this sort grow very strong, and should
iiave good room for their growth.

You may, however, in this month, plant also the broad
Spanish, long-podded, or any sort of garden beans that are
most approved of, either for family use or market. And if some
small early Magazan or Lisbon beans were not planted before
Christmas, or have suffered by the frost, let some more of the
same kinds be now planted the first opportunity of mild open
weather ; either planted in rows two or three feet asunder,
where they are to remain, or some sown thick in a bed, or part
of a warm border, under a frame, &c, for transplanting. — See
October and November.

Or in case of a deficiency of the above early beans, either in
being cut off by the frost, or that none were planted, may now
sow some thick together, either in a hotbed, to forward them
for early transplanting, the bed defended with a frame and
glasses, or covered occasionally with an awning of mats, &c, in
severe weather : and thus will be forwarded two or three weeks
before those now planted at once in the natural ground ; giving
the plants, when come up, full air in all open weather ; and
when they are advanced one or two inches in growth, transplant
them into a warm south situation, when the weather is mild,
planting them in rows two feet and a half asunder. ,

Or where there is the convenience of a hothouse, &c, you
may sow some thick in a large wide garden pot or two placed
therein s and when the beans are come up about an inch in
growth, inure them by degrees every mild day to the full air,
to harden them for transplanting, as above.

SOWING PEAS.

Let some hotspur peas be sown the beginning of this month,
for a full crop, on a warm piece of ground, to succeed the same
sorts which were sown in November and December : the sorts
are,

Charlton hotspur, Golden hotspur, Reading hotspur, Mas-
ters' hotspur.

But the first two are the earliest, and the others are excellent
fine peas, long pods, and good bearers, and proper to succeed
them. Sow each sort in rows, two feet and half asunder ; but
if you intend to set sticks to them, to climb upon for support,
let the rows be three feet distance.

At the same time, also, you may sow the first crop of mar-
row-fat peas, and they will succeed the hotspurs ; for they will

•

Jan.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

21

come into bearing as the others go off. This pea is much ad-
mired in most families : . but the dwarf-marrowfat is the proper-
est for sowing at this season ; observing, if you intend to set
sticks for these peas to run or climb upon for support, sow
them in rows full four feet distant from each other ; but if no
sticks are intended, three feet and a half will be quite sufficient
For a general list of peas, see the catalogue of the kitchen
plants at the end of the book, any of which may also be sown
in open weather.

Where a few early peas are particularly required in the most
early season, they may be obtained by either sowing some in a
hotbed to remain, or rather for transplanting from that into
another ; or some young pea-plants, as are now advanced an
inch or two in growth, may be transplanted into a hotbed.

Either of which methods should be performed the beginning
of the month, if the weather permits : though the sowing in a
hotbed may be done in any weather, or also young pea-plants
transplanted from a raising hotbed finally into a larger; ob-
serving, generally, for either method, to have the early dwarf
frame peas, either sown in a larger hotbed, in cross-rows from
the back to the front, to remain, or rather more eligibly sown
thick on a smaller hotbed, for transplanting into a larger one
when about an inch or two high ; or if any of the early forward
sown peas, either in a bed, warm border, &c, are now of simi-
lar proper growth, some may be transplanted into a hotbed, as
above, to remain for production; or some might be expedi-
tiously raised, sown in pots in a hothouse, for transplanting in
the same manner ; or occasionally raised early in a bed ot
natural earth, defended with frames and glasses ; or in a warm
south border, in a row close under the wall, and transplanted
into a hotbed.

Or some early peas may be sown in large pots, or young
plants, as above, transplanted therein to remain, and placed in
a forcing-house, or stove, &c. ; or may also sow or plant some
dwarf sorts in the borders of a fruit forcing-house.

EARTHING UP PEAS AND BEANS.

If you have peas and beans already up, in the natural
ground, one, two, or three inches high, or more, take advan-
tage of a dry day, when the surface of the ground is dry, and
draw some earth up to their stems.

This should not be omitted, for it will strengthen and for-
ward the plants, and protect them greatly from the frost.

22

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

TJan.

ARTICHOKES.

Artichokes, if not landed up before, should not be neglected
any longer, except the severity of the frost prevents it ; in
which case, as these plants are liable to suffer greatly' by rigor-
ous weather, it is advisable to give some temporary protection,
first clearing away the decayed and large old leaves, then apply
a good thick covering of long, dry, strawy dung or mulchy
litter, close about each plant : but if open weather, it would be
most expedient to land them up ; observing, preparatory to this,
to cut away all the large and decayed old leaves close to the
ground, then dig between, and earth up the plants, as in
November and December.

But the work of landing up artichokes should generally be
performed in November or December ; for which see the work
of those months. It should never be omitted ; for it is the
most general effective method of preserving the plants in severe
winters.

And after they are landed, if the frost should prove very
severe, it will also be proper to lay light dry mulch, or long
litter over the rows : if the plants are of the true globe sort,
too great care cannot be taken to preserve them ; for sometimes
a severe winter makes a great havock among them ; and, in
spring, young sets to recruit the plantations are often so very
scarce, that they can hardly be obtained for any money.

MUSHROOMS.

Mushroom-beds should be carefully attended to at this sea-
son. They should have sufficient covering to defend them
effectually from the frost, rain, or snow ; which should not be
less than twelve inches thick ; and if heavy rain or snow should
have penetrated quite through the covering, this must be re-
moved immediately, or your spawn will be in danger of perish-
ing. Replace it with a good covering of clean and dry wheat
or other straw ; and in order to defend the bed more effectually
from wet and cold, it is advisable to spread some large mats
or canvass cloths over the straw, which will greatly preserve the
beds.

Mushroom-beds may now be made, if required : they will
afford a full crop in spring and beginning of summer, though
probably not so1 successful as the autumnal-made beds. See
the Kitchen Garden for September, for the method of making
and spawning the beds, &c.

Jan.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

23

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

PRUNING APPLE AND PEAR TREES IN ESPALIER, AND 4.GAINS1
WALLS.

Where there are wall and espalier apple and pear trees ye}
unpruhed, that work should now be forwarded as much as pos.
sible, and may be safely performed upon all sorts, without fear-
ing any danger from frost injuring the trees in the cut parts
even if it happens when performing the operation.

Apple and pear trees being of the spur-bearing kind and
their mode of bearing similar, one method of pruning answers
for both ; they, producing their fruit upon short natural spurs
trom the sides and ends of the branches, and the same branches
continue bearing for many years, increasing their quantity of
Iruit-spurs as they gradually advance in length ; let it therefore
be remarked, that in the general course of pruning those trees
their branches and shoots are not to be shortened, but generally
trained along horizontally to the espalier and wall, at their
natural length, at least as far as there is scope of room to ex-
tend them ; never shortened except on particular occasions
below explained; and the whole trained four to five or six
inches asunder.

Keeping, therefore, this in mind, look over the general
branches, m which observe, that in such advancing young trees
as are still m training, requiring a farther supply of young wood
to form he head, be careful to select and retain a proper quan-
tity oi the best-placed last summer's shoots at full length and
generally a terminal shoot to each mother branch ; and cut out
Bli i the superfluous and irregular ones ; but, in full-trained or
old trees still retaining the former trained or same individual
bearing branches for many years, as long as they continue fruit-
tul ; and on y examine any particular branches that appear
worn out or decayed, or any that are too much crowded or very
irregular, and let such be now pruned out; at the same time
observe where any of the last summer's shoots are wanted to
supply vacant spaces, and retain them accordingly; cutting
E.'? ^.r^T18 °r OTer-al-nda„t, close ti the mah
SoSr fmSC> letallforeri^ ^d other irregular-placed
shoots be cut away; carefully retaining the leading shoot to all
he mam branches, where there is scope to run them; so re-
taining the general branches and the necessary supply of youn^
wood, about four to five or six inches asunder, to be trained ta

24

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Jan.

the wall, &c, all at their full length, as aforesaid ; and, accord-
ing as they advance in length, still continue extending them to
the wall and espalier, without shortening, at least as far as their
limited space admits.

In the course of this pruning, have particular care to pre-
serve all the natural fruit-spurs ; but cut away all those formed
of the remaining stumps of shortened shoots, for these rarely
produce anything but a confusion of unnecessary wood-shoots
every summer : and for which reason be careful, in pruning
out the superfluous and irregular shoots, always to cut them
quite close to whence they originate.

Then train in all the remaining proper branches and shoots
at their full length, about from four to five or six inches asun-
der, as aforesaid, without reducing them in length either in the
summer or winter pruning.

By the above practice the shoots or branches of these trees,
will, about the second or third year after they are laid in, be-
gin to produce short shoots or spurs (as they are generally '
termed) about an inch or two in length : some not above half
an inch ; and from these the fruit is produced.

But if the branches of these trees were to be shortened, it
would be cutting off the very part where blossom buds or spurs
first begin to appear ; and instead of those fruitful parts, they
would send forth a number of strong wood-shoots. This plain-
ly shows, that the shoots which are intended for fruit-bearing
must not be generally shortened; for if that is practised, the
trees would constantly run to wood, and never produce any
tolerable crop of fruit.

If, indeed, there is a want of wood in any part of these trees,
then occasional shortening some of the adjacent young shoots
may be necessary, whereby to promote a production of laterals
the ensuing summer to furnish the vacancy.

For instance, if there is any vacant part in a tree, and two,
three, or more shoots, are requisite to furnish that vacancy, and
only one shoot was produced in that part the preceding sum-
mer, that shoot, in such a case, being now shortened to four or
five buds, it, if strong, will produce three or four lateral shoots
the summer following.

PRUNING PLUMS AND CHERRIES.

This is also a proper season to prune and nail plums and
cherries, either against walls or espaliers

Let it be observed, in the pruning of these trees against walls

Jan-.] the fruit garden. 25

or espaliers, that, like the apples and pears, they being of the
spur-bearing kind, producing the fruit upon short natural spurs
or studs, emitted along the sides of the branches, of from two
or three to many years old, so must accordingly retain the same
branches, many years for bearers, which must not be shortened
in the course of pruning, but trained horizontally at their full
length, about three or four to five or six inches asunder ; also
all young shoots of the last year's growth, as are now proper
to be reserved in vacancies, to furnish the wall or espalier with
bearing wood, must not be shortened ; but every such shoot or
branch must be left entire ; and this should at all times be obA
served, which is the only certain method whereby to render the
branches fruitful.

In the operation of pruning these trees, observe, as advised
for the apple and pear trees, to give proper attention both in
any young trees still under . training, and in the fully-trained
older trees furnished with the requisite expansion of branches.

Observing, in the former, i. e. the young trees under train-
ing, that where further supplies of branches are required in or-
der to form a proper expansion of bearers trained in regularity,
should be careful to leave some best well-placed young shoots
lor that purpose ; and cut out the improper and unnecessary,
such as foreright and other irregular placed growths ; or also
any superfluous or over-abundant shoots, that may occur in
particular parts of the trees; retaining the reserved proper
shoots mostly at their full length, for training as above ; and
they will thus, in from one, two, or three years' growth, furnish
natural fruit-spurs for bearing ; but generally sooner in the
cherries than the plums, as some sort of cherries will probably
bear fruit the same year, on the young shoots now trained in :
the morella, in particular, bears mostly on the one-year-old
shoots : for observations thereon — see November.

And in the full-trained trees of the above sorts, look care-
fully over the general expansion; and where any occasional
supply of young wood appears necessary, select and retain some
best placed proper shoots of last summer accordingly, either to
furnish any present vacancy, or to train in between the main
branches where it may seem expedient, in order to be advanc-
ing to a bearing state, ready to supply any apparent future
occasion; but in the morella particularly, above mentioned,
retain always a general supply for principal' bearers,: (see
November :) and prune out all irregular and superabundant
shoots close to the mother branches ; and if casual worn-out or

E

26 THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Jan.

decayed old unfruitful branches occur, let them now be cut out,
retaining young wood of proper growth, &c. to supply their
place; preserving also, in all vacant spaces, a supply of the best
young shoots at their natural length, as above advised and a
leading one to each branch ; being careful to preserve all the
short natural fruit-spurs, and cut away close any remaining
naked stumps of former shortened shoots : then, as soon as a
tree is thus pruned, proceed to train in all the proper shoots
and branches to the wall and espalier, at their full length as
aforesaid, at the above-mentioned distances : and all those thus
^treated will, in two or three years' time, send out many short
shoots, or fruit-spurs, about half an inch or an inch in length •
and from these spurs the fruit is always produced.

These spurs generally appear first toward the upper part
or that winch was once the superior part of the one, two and
three year old branches ; and if shortening was to be practis-
ed, those parts would consequently be cut away where the bios
som-buds would have otherwise first made their appearance.
Iherefore, m the course of pruning apple, pear, plum, and
cherry trees, never shorten or top the young shoots that are
lett for a supply of bearing wood, nor any of the bearing
branches, if room to extend them ; and they will thus all gradu!
ally form themselves into a plentiful bearing state.

But if shortening was generally practised to these kinds of
fruit trees, as is the case with many pruners, it would prove
their manifest destruction in regard to preventing their fruit-
fulness : for, in the places where fruit-buds would otherwise
naturally appear, there would advance nothing but strong wood
shoots : so that the trees would be continually crowded with
useless and unfruitful wood.

When, however, there is at any time a supply of wood want-
ed, then shortening particular shoots may be proper, as observ-
ed above for the apples and pears.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS IN PRUNING ALL THE ABOVE TREES.

We observed above, that shortening the branches of apple,
pear, plum, and cherry trees, was not proper in the general
course of pruning ; it, however, in some particular cases, is
most necessary ; for which take the following hints

For example, when the trees, for walls and espaliers parti-
cularly, are about one year old from the budding or grafting,
either in the nursery, or newly planted against walls or espa-
liers; with their first shoot immediately from the budding or

Jan.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

2 7

grafting, at full length, it is proper to shorten or head flown
these shoots near the insertion of the bud or graft, to force out
lateral branches, which is called heading down the trees ; but
this should not be done till spring, cutting them down to four
or five eyes ; which will procure a production of lateral shoots
near the head of the stock from these remaining lower eyes or
buds, the following summer, in order for training in according
ly, that the wall or espalier may be regularly furnished with
branches from the bottom. After this the branches are to be
trained along at their full length, except it appears necessary
to shorten some or all of these lateral shoots, in order that each"
may throw out also two or three lateral branches to furnish
that part of the tree more effectually ; training the said lateral
shoots also at their full length ; but if there appear to be still
more branches wanting, some of the most convenient of these
last shoots may also be shortened to promote their producing
a farther supply of lateral branches, suflicient to give the tree
its proper form ; for the great article in this training-pruning is
to encourage and assist young wall and espalier fruit-trees, in
their first two or three years' growth, to produce shoots in
proper places, so as to cover the wall or espalier regularly with
branches, from the bottom to the top.

But when the trees have acquired branches enough to effect
the first proper formation of the head, they will afterwards
naturally furnish further supplies to cover the wall or espalier
regularly every way, to the allotted extent, without any farther
shortening, except on particular occasions, when, a vacancy
happens in any part, according to the rule mentioned in the
article of apples and pears.

There is one thing further to be observed in pruning apple,
pear, plum, and cherry trees ; and that is, when the trees have
acquired branches enough to cover the wall or espalier, at the
distance above mentioned, then all those young shoots of the
last summer's growth, that are not wanted in vacancies to form
new bearers, must be cut off quite close to the place from
whence they arise, leaving no spurs but the fruit spurs that are
naturally produced, which every branch will be plentifully fur-
nished with, if the above rules are observed.

PEACHES, NECTARINES, AND APRICOTS.

Peaches, nectarines, and apricots, may be pruned and nailed
any time in this month, if the weather should prove mild ; or

28 THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Jast.

at all opportunities, without danger of any material injury, if
pruned in frosty weather.

For although these trees are rather tenderer than the sorts
before mentioned, and the frost is more apt to affect them in
some degree at the newly-cut parts, it is only extremely rigo-
rous frost that can any way affect them in consequence of prun-
ing, and that not materially.

In the training and pruning of peaches, nectarines, and apri-
cots, little or no difference is to be observed ; they all produce
their fruit principally upon the young shoots of the former sum-
mer, the fruit-blossoms rising directly from the eyes of the
shoots, a plentiful supply of which must be reserved annually in
every part to train in for bearing : they also, sometimes, bear
on the small natural spurs arising on the two or three years'
wood, which generally occur more frequently in the apricots ;
and all such spurs should be carefully preserved, for they gene-
rally bear good fruit : keeping in mind, however, that the youn°-
yearling shoots are to be considered as the general bearers"
observing, that as the general branches and bearing shoots are
to be trained to the wall horizontally, about three to four or
five inches' distance, we must prune out annually all superabun-
dant shoots, or that are more than can be framed in with pro-
per regularity ; likewise a considerable part of the old, or two
last years' bearers ; and, observing, that as a general supply of
the best of the last year's shoots must annually be left in a re
gular manner in every part of the tree, to bear the fruit the
succeeding summer, each of the said shoots must be shortened
more or less according to their strength, now, in the winter
pruning, as directed below, in order to encourage them to pro-
duce a more regular succession of bearing wood in the ensuing
summer. The wood, which is then produced, will bear fruit
m the summer after that ; and the same shoots both bear the
fruit and a supply of successional shoots at the same time for
future bearers, &c.

Before you begin to prune, in these trees particularly, it is
proper generally to unnail all the young shoots which were nail-
ed last summer, and great part of their respective mother bran-
chess by which means you will have room to examine the shoots,
and to use your knife properly. ■

In the course of pruning these trees, be careful to select the
most promising and best situated shoots at the above distances,
m a regular manner, advancing as it were, one after another'
m every part of the tree, making room for them, by cutting

Jan.] the fruit garden.

29

out all the other useless or unnecessary shoots, together with
a proportionable share of the former bearers, before intimated,
and old naked branches not furnished with bearing wood.

For example, you are to observe that these young shoots are,
as above hinted, produced principally upon those shoots which
were laid in last winter, and which produced the fruit last sum-
mer : and some casually on the older wood ; but shall suppose
many of the said shoots, or branches, which were kid in Issi
winter, to have produced each three shoots in summer, and that
they now all remain, but that there may not be room to lay in
more than one of the said shoots on each of the branches ; it
remains to be considered, which of these three shoots on each
branch is proper to be left ; whether the uppermost, middle,
or lower of the three : there is no general rule for this, but we
will suppose the middlemost ; in which case, cut off the lowei
one quite close to the branch, and then that part of the branch
which hath the upper shoot upon it must be pruned down to
the middle one ; so that there is only the middle shoot now
remaining, which terminates or makes the end of the branch :
but, if it is thought most convenient to leave the uppermost of
the three, the middle and lower are to be cut away close to the
branch ; or, on the contrary, if the lower shoot only is to be
left, cut off the branch with the middle and upper shoot there-
on, close to the lower one : and if thought most proper to leave
in any place two out of three shoots on a branch, then the up-
per and lower are apparently most proper, provided they be
the best shoots, and to cut out the middle one : or if two lower
shoots appear best for your purpose, cut off the upper part of
the branch with the top shoot close to the middle one ; and, if
to retain the two upper shoots, prune out the lowermost : there
may not always happen to be just three young shoots on every
year's branches : but I choose to mention that number, that I
may be the better able, in this small compass, to explain and
convey some idea of the method practised in pruning these sorts
of trees.

At the same time, observe, in the above general pruning, to
retain the most promising well-placed shoots, of the best mid-
dling or moderately strong growth, and which appear the most
fruitful or likely to furnish a proper supply of blossom-buds;
rejecting very weakly slender shoots, and such as are verylon°-
jointed likewise uncommonly thick spongy growths, as also rt
markably rank luxuriants, cutting them all clean out ; likewise
the foreright and others ill-placed, that could not be trained

30

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

with proper regularity. — And, as you proceed, cut some con-
siderable part of the past bearers of the last, or two or three
preceding years to make room for the above young supply ;
pruning them down to some eligible lateral shoots, or some oc-
casionally to their origin, as it may seem expedient : also- take
out casual old naked branches, advanced of some considerable
length, without being now furnished with lateral young bearers,
or fruitful shoots, eligibly placed for training where wanted ;
pruning them either entirely out to make room for the more
fruitful wood, or pruned down, more or less, to any more pro-
lific well-placed young branch proceeding therefrom, and that
is furnished with young shoots for bearing.

Next, let it be remembered, that as you proceed in pruning
these trees, most of those young shoots that are left to bear
must be shortened, especially the smaller, the middling, and
those of moderate growth, both to strengthen them in their fu-
ture production, and to promote the producing more certainly
a supply of successional lateral shoots next summer, properly
situated, so as to continue every part of the tree always well
furnished with bearers ; for without this precaution of shorten-
ing the shoots, many of them are apt to run up, producing la-
terals only, mostly towards the upper part, leaving the bottom
naked ; whereby the tree in time becomes devoid of bearing
shoots below : so that the shortening should be performed
more or less, according to their strength, and that of the tree
in general.

For instance, if a tree is weak, or but a moderate shooter,
generally leaving the shoots about five or six inches apart, for
training in nearly at that distance, let them be shortened ac-
cording to their strength ; some of the weaker shoots to five,
six, or eight inches, others of stronger growth, out to about
ten or twelve, to fifteen or eighteen inches long : for the shor-
tening should always be performed, more or less, according to
the different shoots, and, in some degree, according as the blos-
som-buds appear situated higher- or lower on the respective
shoots ; not to shorten below all the said buds, in those shoots
designed principally for bearing.

When a tree is in a moderate good condition, neither very
vigorous nor weakly, but a middling strong shooter, the shoots
may be left nearly about three, four, or five inches asunder,
and should be shortened rather less in proportion than the fore,
going, but agreeable to the same rules in shoots of different
growth ; pruning some to about eight, ten, or twelve inche.«,

JAN.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

31

others to fifteen or eighteen inches long, or more, according to
their strength and situation in different parts of the tree, as
well as, in some cases, to the apparent situation of the blossom
buds, in being placed higher or lower on the respective shoots
selected for bearers, as before observed.

But when any trees are of very vigorous growth in their
general shoots, they must be shortened but moderately ; or
some shoots very little ; in which some of the less vigorous may
be cut to about twelve or fifteen inches ; but in stronger shoots
prune off only about one-third or fourth of their length, or some
of the most luxuriant left mostly at their full length : for if the
strong shoots of a generally vigorous tree were to be much
shortened, it would occasion their shooting still more luxuri-
antly to rampant unfruitful wood ; therefore the vigorous shoots
should be very moderately shortened; and where they are
general in a tree, it is advisable both to leave them closer and
of much greater length than the shoots in moderate growing
trees, that the exuberance of sap may be expended in the
larger extent and expansion of wood, and the tree thereby in
time become a more moderate shooter and a good bearer.

Observe; however, in shortening the shoots in general, both
in trees of moderate, middling, and strong growth, that in those
shoots adapted for principal bearers the ensuing season, should
be careful not to cut away too low, or below all or most of the
blossom-buds, or parts where they are expected to advance,
being generally distinguishable from the leaf or shoot-buds by
their round, plump, swelling appearance, the others being ob-
long, narrow, and fiattish ; and therefore should give proper
attention to shorten accordingly in the shoots where the fruit-
buds are apparent.

Likewise, observe, that in shortening the bearing shoot or
others of those trees, they should generally, where practicable,
be cut to an eye or wood-bud that is likely to produce a shoot
for a leader the ensuing season ; the shoot-bud. eyes being dis-
tinguishable from the fruit or^ blossom-buds, by their longer,
fiattish form, the others being roundish, swelling, and turgid ;
or may also, occasionally, prune to an eye having one or two
biossom-buds, as frequently, from the same eye, shoot-buds
ate also formed on one side of the single or between the two
twin blossom-buds aforesaid, and from which a good leading
shoot will be most likely produced, which is necessary to the
welfare of the fruit ; for where a leading shoot is produced at

32

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

or near the extremity of a bearing branch, it draws nourishment
to the fruit more effectually.

After having pruned one tree, let it be directly nailed as you
go on ; observing to lay in the branches and shoots horizontally
perfectly straight, and parallel to each other at the above-men-
tioned distances, nailing them all close to the wall in, a neat
manner.

VINES.

Vines may be pruned any time this month, when the weather
will permit.

In training and pruning vines, observe that the young shoots
of last summer are the only bearing wood ; and the branches
and bearing shoots should be trained from about eight to ten
or twelve inches distance, either horizontally or perpendicularly,
as the space of walling, &c. will admit ; and therefore, in the
pruning, carefully leave a sufficient quantity of the last year's
shoots, at the above distances, so that every part may be pro-
perly furnished with them ; for it is from these only that the
bearing shoots are produced, which yield the fruit in the suc-
ceeding summer ; and to make room for the successi'onal supply
of bearing shoots, must cut away some equal portion of the
former bearers, together with all the superfluous or over-abun-
dant and useless young wood, cutting them close to the old
branches ; and let each retained shoot be shortened to form
about three or four, to five or six buds, or eyes, according to
their strength ; cutting them about an inch above an eye, and
somewhat sloping.

Thus, in the course of pruning vines, you should always
leave every year a proper supply of young shoots, both towards
the bottom, middle, and upper part of the wall, in order that
there may be a constant succession of young wood coming up
m regular order, in every part of the tree, pruning out the
superabundancy, as just observed : and also part of most of
the former bearers of last year, &c. and casual long naked old
wood, to make room for the successional young supply, prun-
ing them less or more down to some best young shoots, or
' Iateral branch famished therewith : and any long naked old
branch, not furnished with lateral young wood, advanced a
considerable length, or to the extent of the limited space of
walling, &c. in that unfruitful state, should be taken off, either
quite to the bottom, or to some convenient lateral young branch
to supply its place.

Jan.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

33

As soon as pruned, let them be immediately nailed up straignt
and close to the wall, at the above-mentioned distances.

FIG-TREES.

Fig-tree pruning is advised to be deferred till next month,
or March, where see the method explained.

PRUNING GOOSEBERRY .AND CURRANT TREES.

Gooseberries and currants bear both on the young one or
two years' wood, and upon the several years' branches, gene-
rally upon small spurs rising naturally all along the sides ; and
in each winter pruning it will be required to cut out any casual
worn out, decayed, and very irregular branches, and have a pro-
portionable supply of last summer's young shoots retained, and
the rest pruned out.

In pruning gooseberries, let them always be kept thin of
branches, and these not permitted to grow ramblingly across
one another, but all pruned to some regular order, -so as the
main bearers, or general branches and shoots, stand six or eight
inches' distance at the extremities ; and generally either keep
the middle somewhat hollow, or, if permitted to run up full in
the heart, keep it thin of branches, as above advised ; so that
you will now prune out any irregularities, &c, such as casual
crowding, cross-placed wood, and any worn-out or naked old
branches, retaining young shoots, where necessary, to supply
then- places ; and. cut out all the superabundant lateral shoots
of last summer, close to the old wood, only retaining here and
there a good one in vacancies, or occasionally towards the lower
parts, to be advancing to a bearing state, to supply the place
of casual worn-out bearers : and generally leave, where practi-
cable, a terminating or leading shoot to each main branch, either
such as is placed naturally at or near the end of the branch ;
or, occasionally, where any branch is too long or rambling,
prune it down to some convenient lateral shoots, &c, to remain
for a terminal leader ; and in both cases, generally leave but
one terminal to each branch ; and all those shoots now retained,
both lateral and terminal, should either be mostly left entire,
and only shorten long stragglers, and very bending and reclin-
ing growths, occasionally; or, at least, by no means shorten
the shoots of these trees too much ; for by cutting them very
short, they are made to produce a deal of wood and but small
fruit : and being so full of wood as to exclude the sun and free
air in summer, the fruit cannot ripen well; and it likewise
b 2

34: THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan.

renders it troublesome to .get at the fruit, when fit to gather.
Never clip the trees with garden shears, as is the practice of
some ignorant persons.

Currant bushes should likewise be kept thin and regular, not
suffering the branches to run promiscuously across each other ;
for when suffered to grow so irregular and crowding, they pro-
duce but small fruit ; and the great thicket of branches exclud-
ing the essential benefit of the sun, the berries will not ripen
freely and regular with a good flavour ; observing, therefore, to
keep the general branches thin, about six or eight inches asun-
der ; in which, if any are too crowded or over-abundant, prune
out the most irregular ; also any cross-placed branches, and
casual worn-out old bearers, together with all the irregular-
placed and superabundant young shoots of last summer, pre-
serving only occasional supplies of the most regular ones in
vacancies, and a leading one at the termination of each branch,
agreeable to the rules exhibited above in pruning the gooseberry
bushes ; and the general upper shoots may be mostly shortened
more or less, where required to keep the head to a moderate
extent, and of a compact firm growth.

Observe in pruning young gooseberry and currant hushes,
let those designed for standards be pruned to a clean single
stem, eight, ten, or twelve inches ; and being careful to retain
a requisite supply of the best young shoots properly situated
above to form the head accordingly, cut out the irregular and
ill-placed ; and the retained proper shoots may in some be mo-
derately shortened, especially such as run away straggling from
the rest ; and any proper shoots advancing below, may be per-
mitted to remain entire till advanced equal with the others
above, &c, that the whole may come on as equally as possible,
to form a regular head.

Currants and gooseberries trained against walls or palings,
&c, should also have a necessary pruning and regulation in the
general branches, or as may be required, cutting out the
superabundant and irregular -placed shoots of last summer, or
any casual too crowding and disorderly growing older branches,
or such as appear unfruitful, or, any of a worn-out or decayed
state, and all dead wood ; retaining young shoots advancing from
below, and in the most vacant parts, shortened more or less, or
left entire, according to room for extending them ; and tra n
the general branches, &c, three or four to five or six inches
distance.

Jan.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

Si

PLANTING GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS.

Currants and gooseberries may also be planted ; and if the
trees are to be placed round the quarters of the kitchen garden,
or in cross rows to divide the ground into wide compartments,'
should prune them up to one clean stem, of about ten, twelve!
or fifteen inches, before you form the head of the tree : for
when these trees are suffered to branch away immediately from
the bottom, they, by spreading out so near the ground, will
impede the growth of any crops that grow near their low ex-
pansion, and render it troublesome to work about them, in the
occasional business of digging, hoeing, weeding, &c. ; besides,
they do not appear so agreeable as when trained to a single
stem supporting a regular head of branches.

Generally plant these shrubs six or eight feet distance in the
rows ; and if in continued full plantations, let the rows be eight
or ten feet asunder.

Likewise plant currants against walls and palings • some
against south walls for earliest fruit, and others on north walls
for latest production ; planted six or eight to ten feet distance •*
and the branches permitted to advance quite from the bottom
and trained up regularly to the wall, &c, three or four to five
or six inches asunder.

Or may also plant some best early sorts of gooseberries
against a south wall, for earliest production both of green and
npe fruit ; planting and training them as above in the currants

PRUNING RASPBERRIES.

In pruning these plants, observe that a fresh supply of shoots
arise Irom the roots every year in summer for bearing the suc-
ceeding year; for the shoots, when but one year old only
always produce fruit, and totally die in winter following, tho^e
of each year being succeeded by the succession^ supply, from
the roots of young shoots of the last summer, to bear the ensu
mg season; therefore, as the shoot which produced fruit last
year will now be dead, they must be cut away close to the sur-
faced the ground ; and leave standing upon each root three
L,T v J stronSest shoots °f the last summer's growth to
bear fruit the same year in the ensuing summer; but cut the
rest down to the ground.

*}Jt0S7h0°^ WWch Me left t0 bear- m»st be each of them
snoitened ; in doing which, cut off about one-third or fourth of

* Four or fire feet may do.

jjg THE FRUIT- GARDEN. [Jam.

the length of each shoot, according to their strength ; observing,
as they generally form a bend at top, it is proper to shorten
them at a little below the bending part ; and if they are left
longer, or that they straggle wide and irregular from one ano-
her, may plait or tie them together, either uprightly or arch-
ways at top, to support them in an erect position.

The ground should then be digged between the rows ; and
as you go on, the roots that do not belong to the standing
plants should be taken away, and all shoots growing in the
intervals dug up.

PLANTING RASPBERRIES.

You may now make fresh plantations of raspberries, observ-
ing to procure young plants that are furnished each with one
strong shoot of last summer, which may be obtained plentifully
from any old plantation, as they always send up abundance of
off-set suckers for sets, preferring those with good fibrous roots,
rejecting such whose roots are naked and woody ; prune off the
weak tops of the shoots, and the long straggling roots, and
plant them, by opening small apertures with a spade, in rows
four feet and half asunder, and two or three feet distance in
each row.

This distance appears considerable at first ; but they should
never be planted closer, as the advantage of it will be seen in
two years' time ; for when planted too close, they will, in the
summer season, form a perfect thicket, insomuch that the fruit
will be small, and not ripen with a good flavour ; nor can you
come at them readily, when fit to gather.

These plants should be planted in an open situation. For
particulars, see October.

PREPARATIONS FOR PLANTATIONS OF FRUIT TREES.

If you intend to make new plantations of fruit trees, either
for the wall or for espaliers, the borders should be trenched two
spades deep : but previously, if the soil is poor, or very light,
and wants augmentation, it would be of much advantage to add
a supply of fresh strong earth or. compost or good loamy earth,
if it can be obtained, and rotten dung, working the whole
together; and may be applied either wholly to the general
border, or only at present to the place where each tree is to be
planted, and the rest supplied by degrees ; but if only some
trees are wanted in different places, and that any improvement,
as above, is thought necessary, it need only be applied in the

Jan.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

places where the trees are intended, as just obseTved : preparing
the improvement about three to four or five feet in width, and
one good spade deep, at least, for each tree.

If an orchard is to be planted, and the soil is but indifferent,
it will be of advantage to add some very rotten dung, and fresh
loam, or any good earth or compost, the most easily obtained,
in each hole where the trees are to stand ; working the earth,
loam, and dung well together.

However, in intending any plantations as above, it may be
proper to observe, that when the ground is naturally of some
tolerable fertile quality, good staple earth, or moderate loam, or
other good mellow cultivating soil, as that of a garden or good
field land, it will not require any other improvement than to
dig or trench the ground a proper depth of one or two spades,
as it may admit, or occasionally, at present, only to dig the
holes for the trees.

PLANTING FRUIT TREES.

Plant fruit trees where required, in open weather, of any
sorts intended, both for walls, espaliers, and standards : for
walls, the sorts are apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums,
cherries, pears, vines, figs ; for espaliers, apples, pears, plums,
quinces, cherries ; and for standards, the principal sorts are
apples, pears, plums, cherries, with smaller portions of quinces,
medlars, mulberries, filberts, services, &c. See February, and
March, November, &c.

Let the wall and espalier trees be planted fifteen feet asunder
at least ; but if eighteen or twenty, it will prove of considerable
advantage, by admitting of a large scope for the horizontal ex-
tension of the branches ; and let full standard trees be planted
thirty or forty feet distance. See February, &c.

PROTECTING THE ROOTS OF, AND SUPPORTING NEW-PLANTED
TREES.

If the weather should now prove severe, it will be proper to
protect the roots of new-planted fruit trees from being hurt by
the frost, by laying mulch, or dung litter, on the surface of the
ground, particularly the choicest of the stone fruit kinds ; as
peaches, nectarines, apricots, and any principal sorts of cherries
and plums.

Support all new-planted standard trees with stakes, and let a
hay band be put round the stem of the tree, at the place where

38

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Jan.

it is to be fastened to the stake, to prevent the bark from being
galled.

PRUNING OLD STANDARD FRUIT TREES.

This is also a proper time to examine your old standard fruit
trees, to thin them where wanting, and to cut off all dead 01
irregularly growing branches, and to clear the trees from moss.
See the work of November.

FORCING FRUIT TREES FOR EARLY FRUIT.

Wheiie there is the accommodation of hot walls, or forcing
houses, furnished with fruit trees for producing early fruits, as
cherries, peaches, apricots, &c, may now begin to prepare for
that business, by shutting all the glasses close, and about the
middle, or toward the latter end of the month, begin to make
the fires ; or in vineries the beginning of the month : and in
these forcing departments, where there is a pit. in which to
make a hotbed of tanner's bark, or hot horse-dung, make the
hotbed first, and in a fortnight after let the fires be continued
every night. See the Fruit Garden for next month.

FORCING EARLY STRAWBERRIES.

Now is a proper time, about the latter end of this month, to
begin to make a hotbed to raise a few early strawberries : those
which are planted now in a hotbed will produce fruit fit to
gather in March or April.

About the middle or end of this month, provide for that
purpose as much new horse-dung, as will make a hotbed about
a yard high, for one or more three-light frames.

Let the dung be thrown in a heap, and let it lie about eight
or ten days : in that time it will be in good condition to make
the hotbed,

But in this business, a tan-bark hotbed, made in a bark-pit
defended with a proper frame and glasses, would generally be
more successful in fruiting these plants early.

But, previous to this, there should be a proper quantity of
strawberry-plants potted, ready to place on the said hotbed ; or
if this was done in autumn before, in September or October,
&c, it will be of particular advantage : the Alpine and scarlet
kinds are the best sorts for this purpose, and should be plants
of two years old, of a full bearing state, and of which, if none
were potted.before for this occasion, it may now be done in
open weather. The method is this : — provide as many pots

Jan.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

89

(twenty-fours or thirty-twos) as the frame intended for your
hotbed will conveniently contain, when set close together ; at
the same time get some fresh and good earth ; if it is loamy it
will be the better ; and, let it be well broken with the spade. '
Having the pots and the earth ready, put some of the earth
into each pot to the depth of three or four inches ; then take
up the plants with a ball of earth to their roots, pare the ball
nearly round with a knife, and clear the plant from all withered
or rotten leaves, then place it in the pot, and fill the space be-
tween the ball and the sides of the pot with the above earth,
and cover the surface of the ball with the same. Let them be
watered as soon as you have finished planting, and remove the
pots to a warm situation, there to remain till the bed is ready
to receive them : but if the weather should prove bad before
the hotbed is ready, let the plants be protected by covering
them, or removing them under a frame and glasses, or into
some sheltered place.

Having, however, prepared the dung for the hotbed, make
it for one or more frames, about three feet high, and directly
set on the frame and lights, to protect it from wet, and draw
up the heat sooner : and when the violent heat is over, lay
therein either some dry light earth, or some waste tanner's
bark, of a decayed bark bed, four or five inches thick ; then
bring in the plants, and plunge the pots into the earth or tan,
up to the rims, and close together as can be, filling up also all
the interstices between with earth, &c.

When all the pots are plunged, put on the glasses, and keep
them close till the steam arises in the bed, when it will be
necessary to raise them a little behind, to let the steam pass off.

When the plants begin to push, let them have air at all op-
portunities, when the weather is favourable ; for if kept too
close, they will draw up weak, and not blossom well, and the
blossom would drop, without being succeeded by fruit, and
should be frequently refreshed with a little water, and cover the
glasses every night with mats, and support the heat of the bed
by linings of hot dung.

N. B. In forcing strawberries, the plants may be taken up
out of the natural ground with balls of earth, and placed imme-
diately in the earth of the hotbed without potting them.
However, when it is intended to force strawberries, either in a
common hotbed or in the hothouse, it would be a good method
to plant some bearing plants in pots, in September or October,
mid so plats the pots close together in a garden frame, or

40

THE PLEASURE

[Jan.

under some warm wall, till the time they are to be placed in
the hotbed.

But where there is the convenience of a pine-apple stove, or
any kind of fruit forcing-house, or hot wall, &c, may raise
plenty of early strawberries in great perfection, with but very
little trouble : having some bearing plants ready in pots, place
them in the hothouse, anywhere near the glasses, giving fre-
quent light waterings ; they will fruit early in great abundance.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN.

Great care should now be taken to protect the choicest flower-
ing plants at this unfavourable season, particularly the principal
sorts, and tender kinds in pots, which, if not done before,
should now be removed, in their respective pots, to places of
shelter from severe frost, either in garden frames, or under
awnings of mats ; or, in default of such protections, let them
be placed in some warm situation under a south wall, &c.

AURICULAS.

The best auriculas in pots should be well protected from ex-
cessive rains, snow, or sharp frosts : for although these plants
are .hardy to stand the winter fully exposed, yet by giving oc-
casional protection, it preserves them in strength to flower in
greater perfection.

The choicest varieties of these plants should always be re-
moved in their pots, about the end of October, or beginning of.
November, and placed in frames, or in a bed arched over with
hoops, in a warm dry situation, in the full sun, where they can
be occasionally covered when the weather is unfavourable ; but
let the covers be constantly off when the weather is mild and
dry

Towards the end of this month, if the weather is mild, it will
be time to think of preparing to add some fresh earth to the
pots of these plants.

Let some proper compost be prepared for this purpose (see
Auricula, in August) ; and, if the season is mild and forward
in the latter end of this month, may dress the plants therewith ;
but if unfavourable weather, defer it till the next month ; first
clear the plants from dead leaves, and take the old earth away
from the top and round the sides of the pots, as low as you

Jan.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

conveniently can, without disturbing their roots ; fill up the pot
with the earth that you have prepared ; and when you have
finished this, return the pots to the place intended for shelter-
ing them, as above.

CARE OF CARNATIONS.

Take great care to protect your fine carnations that are in
pots, from hard frost, excessive rains, and snow ; for, as ob-
served of the auriculas, notwithstanding the plants being hardy
to stand the winter in the open air, it is advisable to defend
the choicer sorts in bad weather, to preserve them in good
strength for flowering in best perfection, accordingly.

These pots should be plunged in a raised bed of dry compost,
in the beginning of winter, and the bed arched over low with
pliant rods or hoops, at that time ; this will be of great advan-
tage to the plants, if you are careful to draw mats over the
arches when the weather is severe.

But if the pots were to be placed in garden frames, it would
be still better, if you take care to put the glasses over them in
rigorous weather ; but when the weather is mild, and not im-
moderately wet, no covering must be over the plants, but let
them have the free air at all such times, day and night.

Or in want of the above means of protection, the pots of
plants should be placed in some warm situation.

CARE OF CHOICE HYACINTHS AND TULIPS.

In severe frosty weather, it would be of beneficial advantage,
if the beds wherein you have deposited the choicest kinds of
hyacinths and tulips, or any other curious bulbous roots, be
covered, either with an awning of mats, or, in default thereof,
with straw, fern, or dry long litter ; but it must be removed as
soon as the severe weather is over.

But when any of the above-mentioned plants, of the most
curious kinds, begin to appear above ground, it would be of
much advantage to have the beds arched over low with hoops,
&c. ; and when the weather is unfavourable, such as in severe
frost, let the mats be drawn over the arches, and fastened down,
that the wind may not blow them off: but when the weather
is open, let them be constantly uncovered.

The finest kinds, particularly of hyacinths, tulips, ranuncu-
luses, and anemones, merit this care.

i'2

THE PLEASURE

[Jan.

PLANTING RANUNCULUSES, ANEMONES, &c.

Plant ranunculuses and anemones in mild, dry, open wea-
ther, if you have any now out of the ground ; these now planted
will succeed those which were put in the ground in October or
November.

For their reception choose a dry situation, where the ground
is of a light friable nature. Let it be well digged, breaking the
earth fine, and form into beds of three feet and a half or four
feet wide, and raka the surface smooth, then take an oppor-
tunity of dry, mild, open weather, and plant the roots either in
drills, or by dibble, in rows, six to eight or nine inches distant,
and allow the distance of four to five or six inches in the rows ;
and plant them about two inches deep.

For the particular method of preparing the beds, and plant-
ing the roots, see the work of September and October.

These flowers make a very agreeable appearance, when they
are planted in small patches in the borders among other flowers.
In a small circle of about six inches diameter you may plant
four or five roots ; that is, one in the middle, and the rest
round the extreme parts of the circle. Let the patches be from
two or three, to five, ten, twelve, or fifteen feet asunder.

The above practice, however, of planting those roots in sorts,
for it is necessary to plant the fine varieties . together in narrow
beds, as above, in order both to have the opportunity of pro-
tecting them occasionally in severe weather, if thought expe-
dient, and that, when in flower, they may display a specious
show together in their various colours, stripes, and tints, in the
different varieties ; and also in the spring, when plants are in
bloom, they can be more readily sheltered from great rains, or
too much sun, both of which would hasten the decay of the
flowers ; and as the pleasure of admiring the bloom is the only
intention of cultivating these flowers, no pains should be spared
to protect the more beautiful sorts.

PLANTING TULIPS.

Tulips, if you have any out of the ground, should now be
planted the first settled open weather, to blow late, and to sue
ceed those planted in the last autumn.

Let this work be done as soon as the weather will permit ;
for if these roots are kept much longer out of the ground, they
will blow very poorly. If they are to be planted in beds, let
them be three or four feet wide, raised two or three inches.

Jan.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

43

somewhat rounding, that they may throw off the redundant wet
of heavy rains, and remain drier at this season more effectually.

In a dry mild day, in open weather, let these bulbs be put
into the ground in rows, nine inches distant, allowing six inches
between the plants in each row, and plant them about three
inches deep. Or, if intended to plant any of the inferior sorts
in the borders, in assemblage with other flowers, they may
either be planted in a single row towards the front, or some
dotted singly, or by three together, to effect a greater variety :
but these flowers, when planted in the borders, make the best
appearance in little clumps ; that is, in a circle of about six or
eight inches, plant four or five roots ; and about from three or
four to five or ten feet further, plant another such clump, and
so proceed, in a varied order, towards the front and middle.

PLANTING CROCUSES AND SNOW-DROPS.

Any sort of crocuses may still be planted for an early spring
bloom, if dry mild weather ; generally planting them along the
edges of the flower-borders, next the walks, and in flower-beds,
&c, commonly within five or six inches of the edge, either in a
continued row, or dotted in little patches, planted about two
inches deep ; though those designed for the borders appear to
greater advantage when disposed in small patches, than in a
continued row. Draw a small circle with your finger, about
four or five inches diameter ; in the middle plant one root, and
plant three or four round the edge of the circle ; about eighteen
inches, or two or three feet further, make another circle, and
plant the roots as above; and so proceed to the end of the
border, &c. ; or may vary the patches, in having some near the
edge, and others more towards the middle : observing, if you
have different kinds, to plant each sort separate ; and if you
plant the first' patch with yellow crocuses, plant the next with
blue, and so proceed with others of different sorts.

Snow-drops may also be planted now in the same manner as
the crocuses.

PLANTING VARIOUS SORTS OF BULBS.

Jonquils, narcissuses, hyacinths, bulbous iris, Persian iris,
gladioluses, pancratiums, fritillaries, crown imperials, or any
other kind of bulbous flower-roots, that yet remain above
ground, should now be planted, as soon as the weather will
permit. Mild dry weather must be chosen to plant these and

44

THE PLEASURE

[Jan.

all other kinds of bulbous roots ; and see that the ground is not
too wet.

When it is intended to plant any of the common sorts of the
above, or other kinds of bulbous roots, in the borders, they may
be planted in the manner mentioned above for the common
tulips, &c.

FLOWERS TO BLOW IN A HOUSE.

Several sorts of bulbous roots may be placed upon bulb-
glasses of water for blowing in the apartments of a house, such
as hyacinths, narcissuses, jonquils, early dwarf tulips, bulbous
iris, &c. ; the glasses for this purpose are to be had at the seed
and glass-shops, being made concave at the mouth, to contain
each one root, and are to be filled with soft water, and one
root, placed in each glass with its bottom touching the water :
placing the bottles upon a shelf or chimney-piece of some light
warm room, or in the inside of a warm window, and if where
the sun comes it will be an additional advantage ; but in severe
frost, removed to the interior part of a room where a fire is
kept : they will soon shoot their roots down into the water,
which, when become very foul and fetid, should be renewed
with fresh occasionally : and they will thus blow very agree-
ably, early in the spring ; or may be greatly forwarded if placed
in a hothouse.

Likewise may plant various sorts of bulbous and tuberous-
rooted flower-roots, in pots for blowing in a house, such as
hyacinths, narcissuses of all kinds, early tulips, crocuses, ane-
mones, ranunculuses, or any other spring-flowering kind ;
having small pots or boxes filled with light sandy earth, plant
the roots therein just over their crowns, and place the pots near
a window : and when the roots begin to shoot, give occasional
light waterings, and they will flower in good perfection at an
early season.

BLOWING FLOWERS EARLY IN A HOTHOUSE.

Many sorts of bulbous, tuberous, and fibrous-rooted perennial
flowers if planted in pots, and now placed in a hothouse, or any
forcing department at work, will shoot and flower very early,
without trouble ; only to give occasional waterings.— And pots
of roses, hypericums, syringas, cytisus, dwarf almond, double-
blossom cherry, &c, may also be placed therein, to flower early.
See the Hothouse.

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

45

CARE OF PERENNIAL FIBROUS- ROOTED PLANTS IN POTS.

Double wall-flowers in pots, double stocks, and double sweet-
williams, also cuttings of double chrisanthemums, and any other
of the choicest kinds of perennial plants, in pots, should be well
secured from severe frosts. If these plants in pots are placed
in frames, let the glasses or other covering be kept over them
at all times when the frost is keen, or occasionally in very wet
weather; but in mild dry weather the plants must not be
covered.

Take care now also of all other choicer kinds of fibrous-
rooted perennial plants in general, which are in pots, to secure
them from frost ; such as the double rose champion, double
scarlet lychnis, and all other such like kinds.

Those plants which are in pots should, where there is not
the convenience of frames, be plunged to their rims in a dry
and warm border, and in severe weather covered with long lit-
ter ; but if you do not plunge the pots, they should be well
defended, or moved into some sheltered place at the approach
of severe frost.

SEEDLING FLOWERS.

Boxes or pots of any tender or choice kinds of seedling
flowers should be covered in frosty weather, either with mats,
long litter, or fern, or the like, which should be laid a good
thickness over them, and close round the sides ; or remove them
under a garden-frame and glasses, &c.

Likewise beds of the more tender and curious sorts of seed-
ling flowers, in common ground, should also be covered, in
hard frosts, with mats or long litter ; but remove the covering
when the weather is mild.

PROTECTING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

If you have hardy flowering shrubs or evergreens in pots,
you should, to protect their roots from the frost, plunge the
pots to their rims in the ground, if omitted doing in November
or December: allotting them, for this purpose, a dry warm
situation, where water is not apt to stand.

Or, if not plunged as above, place them close together in a
warm situation, and in very rigorous frosts apply some straw
litter, &c, between and over the pots, to protect the roots.

But any tender or more curious young evergreens, &c, in

THE PLEASURE

[Jak.

pots, should have the protection of frames or occasional cover-
ing of mats, &c, in severe weather.

Protect also the roots of the choicer kinds of newly planted
trees, flowering shrubs, and evergreens, from frost, if it should
set in hard. This is done by laying dry mulchy litter on the
surface of the ground, close round the bottom of the stem of
each tree and shrub, as 'far as their roots extend, or rather
farther.

Likewise support all such newly planted shrubs or trees as
require it, with stakes, that they may not be displaced by the
wind.

PRUNING FLOWERING SHRUBS, AND DIGGING BETWEEN THEM.

Prune flowering shrubs in the clums or quarters of the
shrubbery, or where they require it. This should generally be
done with a knife, and not commonly with garden shears, as is
often practised ; all dead wood should be cut away ; also where
the branches of different shrubs crowd considerably upon one
another, let some be pruned out, and shorten long rambling
shoots, and rude luxuriant growths ; for, where not intended to
form a close thicket, the shrubs in general should be kept clear
of each other, so that each kind may be seen distinctly.

After pruning, as above, the ground between the shrubs, if
they are not in a thickety growth to overspread the surface,
should be digged ; observing, as you go on, to clear away strag-
gling or very rambling suckers, rising from the roots ; digging
the ground regularly, turning in all weeds clean to the bottom ;
and the whole will thereby remain agreeably neat all winter
and spring.

PLANTING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

In settled open weather, you may plant, where wanted, most
sorts of hardy flowering shrubs.

Such as roses, honeysuckles, lilacs, and syringas, althaea and
spira frutex, Guelder rose, Persian lilacs, laburnums, privets,
and jasmines, the cinquefoil shrub, and bladder-senna, the
double hawthorn, double blossom cherry, and dwarf almond,
with double and single flowers, the mezereon and double-flower-
ing peach, hypericum, St John's wort, and scorpion senna,
double and single sweetbriar, flowering raspberry, and double
bramble ; and many other such-like hardy kinds of shrubs may
at this time be transplanted, if tolerable mild open weather.

Likewise, may plant some sorts of hardy evergreens, towards

Jan-] or flower garden. 47

the latter end of this month, if mild open weather, such as
pines, firs, &c., though it is not advisable to make any general
planting of evergreens at this season. See February and March.

For a list of the hardy flowering shrubs, evergreens, &c.
which may. now be planted, see the Catalogue of shrubs at the
end of the book.

Respecting the rules and order of planting the various kinds
of flowering shrubs, particular regard should be had to the dis-
tances, and also to the arrangement or order in placing them,
so that the different plants may be readily distinguished ; for
this is of particular importance in ornamental planting.

Therefore, in the disposition of the shrubs, let the different
heights and modes of growth of the various kinds be considered,
and placed so that one plant may not overbear another.

The rule is, the taller the plant, the more backward in the
border or clump it must be placed, and the shortest should be
placed nearest the front, so as the whole may stand in a kind
of theatrical order.

The distance which should be allowed between plant and
plant, is at least three, to four or five feet : this is to be under-
stood, when they are to be planted in the clumps or quarters
at the shrubbery; but those that are intended to be planted in
the common narrow borders, must be allowed double that dis-
tance at least.

PROPAGATING BY LAYERS.

In open weather may continue to lay the young branches
and shoots of hardy shrubs, to raise a supply of new plants •
laying them into the earth three or four inches deep, with the
tops out, most of them will be rooted by next autumn, fit for
transplanting. — See the Nursery,

TRANSPLANTING SUCKERS FOR PROPAGATION.

Tkansplant suckers from the roots of roses, Macs, spiraeas,
syrmgas and various other shrubs, to raise a supply of new
plants : for by suckers many sorts of shrubs may be propagated ;
let these suckers be taken off carefully, with roots to each, and
plant some of the strongest into the shiubberies, &c, where
they are to remain, and the smaller plant in nursery rows
eighteen inches asunder; they will make good plants in two
years time.

43

THE PLEASURE

[Jan

PROPAGATING BY CUTTINGS,

Cuttings of the young shoots of many sorts of hardy deci-
duous shrubs may also now be planted in open weather, espe-
cially towards the latter end of the month, and they will suc-
ceed, take root in spring and summer, shoot at top, and form
good-rooted young plants by next autumn.

CARE OF GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS.

Take great care now of the grass walks and lawns in this
garden ; they should be kept very neat by frequently poling
and rolling them. Poling should be performed in open, dry
weather, which is done with a pliable taper ash-pole, twelve or
fifteen feet long, or more, and should be used to break and
spread the worm-casts about, whenever they appear on the
grass* After this, when the surface is moderately dry, let the
grass be rolled with a wooden roller, to which all the scattered
worm-cast earth will readily adhere, by which means your grass
will be rendered agreeably clean, the surface smooth and firm,
and of a desirably-neat appearance.

MAKING GRASS WALKS OR LAWNS.

Now is also a proper time, when the weather is open, to lay
turf where wanted, for making or mending grass plats, walks,
or lawns.

The best turf for gardens is to be met with on commons or
downs, where many sheep, &c, are pastured. — When you go
to cut turf, let them be marked out a yard long, and a foot
broad : they must be cut about an inch thick, with a proper
turfing iron ; and according as they are cut up, they should be
rolled up, the grass-side inwards, as close and firm as possible,
for the more ready carrying and moving them without breaking.

Let the ground where turf is to be laid be made as firm and
even as possible, by good treading and raking, &c, that it may
not settle unequally hereafter ; and it would be preferable to
have two or three inches of any light, poor soil at top, to
prevent the grass from growing rank ; level the whole equally,
and rake the surface smooth and even every way, and as soon
as laid, the whole should be immediately well beaten with a
heavy wooden beater, and afterwards rolled with a large stone
or iron roller.

* When the walks am! lawns are infested with worms, they may be readily tie-
strayed by watering them with lime-water.

Jan.] or flowee garden. 49

gravel walks.

Gravel walks should be continued in decent order, especially
in the principal parts of the garden, kept clean from litter, and
free from weeds ; and let them be now and then rolled in dry
open weather.

PLANTING BOX AND THRIFT FOR EDGING.

Now is a very good time to plant box or thrift, where it is
wanted for edging to beds or borders. These edgings may be
planted any time this month, when the weather is mild. Both
these make close and agreeable edgings, if neatly planted, and
well kept afterwards.

But the box is superior to everything for forming the most
effectual, handsome, and durable edging.

For the method of planting them, see October and No-
vember.

PREPARATIONS FOR PLANTING, &c.

Trench or dig and prepare such shrubbery compartments,
and other parts of the pleasure-ground, where you intend to
plant flowering shrubs, this or the next month. Also dig those
clumps or quarters where you intend to plant evergreens, in
February or March, that they may be in readiness against
planting time.

Dig flower-borders and beds, especially such as are the most
vacant, that they may be ready to receive the plants, or seeds
of flowers, the two following months.

PLANTING FOREST TREES, &c.

Foeest and ornamental trees may now be planted in dry
soils, in open weather; both where designed for woods and
coppices, for timber, &c, and for ornamental plantations. For
the proper sorts, see the lists of hardy Trees at the end or
the book.

PLANTING HEDGES, AND PLASHING* OLD ONES.

Now may also plant any sort of deciduous hedges ; as privet,
hawthorn, whitethorn, hornbeam, beech, elm, elder, alder, wil-
low, poplar, hazel, &c, where wanted. — See December.

It is also a good time to plash old naked hedges of any out-

* The word plash is not generally known among gardeners in Scotland : it means
ro plat or mterweave branches.

c

AO

THE NURSERY.

[Jan

ward fences or others, that have run up considerably above
and become thin or open below. — See December.

THE NURSERY.

Dig the ground, if open weather, between the continuous
rows of young trees and shrubs of all sorts.

But previous to performing this work, should give any neces-
sary pruning to the shrubs and trees, especially the deciduous
kinds ; then let the ground be digged one spade deep ; as you
go on, trim off any straggling roots of the trees and shrubs ;
and in digging, give every spit a fair turn off the spade, that
the weeds on the surface may be buried properly.

TRANSPLANTING AND PRUNING FOREST TREES.

Transplanting of young forest and ornamental trees in the
nursery, and where required, may be performed any time this
month, if the weather is open, and the ground not too wet.

Particularly deciduous forest trees, &c, of the hardy kinds,
may be removed any time this month, if mild weather ; but
this should not be generally practised to evergreens, at this
season.

Trim up the steins of forest trees and other tree kinds where
they require it ; this may be done when little else can be done
in the nursery ; for if it is performed in frosty weather, the
trees will receive no harm by the operation, especially the hardy
deciduous kinds.

PRUNING AND TRANSPLANTING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

Prune honeysuckles and roses, and all other kinds .of hardy
deciduous flowering shrubs that want it, training each with a
single stem, and trimming their heads as you shall see occasion ;
that is, either to cut out or shorten all straggling shoots, in
such manner as you shall see necessary to keep their heads
somewhat to a regular form.

In open and settled weather you may now transplant, where
necessary, most sorts of hardy deciduous flowering shrubs, both
in the nursery order, and for shrubbery plantations, &c, in a
dry soil ; but where the soil is apt to lodge wet, there should
not be any planted therein before February.

Jan.]

THE NURSERY.

PLANTING FRUIT TREE STOCKS.

Plantations of fruit tree stocks, for grafting and budding
upon, may be made at any time this month, if favourable, mild,
open weather. Many of those raised from seed, &e., last
spring, or the year before, will be fit for this, digging them up
out of the seedbed, &e., with their full roots, and let them be
planted in nursery-rows, two feet and a half asunder, and fifteen
or eighteen inches distant from each other in the rows : and
when they have attained two or three years' growth, will be
proper for budding and grafting. — See the Nursery, October,
for the method of planting ; and that of February and March
and June and July for grafting and budding.

WORKING IN FROSTY WEATHER.

In frosty weather carry dung, and lay on such places of the
nursery as require it.

This may be necessary to some particular quarters as have
been lately cleared, and that are intended to be planted again
with a fresh stock ; and let it be trenched in regularly, one full
spade deep at least.

Likewise, in frosty weather, you may prune hardy deciduous
trees and shrubs ; and when severe frost, protect the different
sorts of the more tender or curious young evergreens, &c, as
directed under the article Care of Tender Trees, £fc.

PREPARING GROUND FOR PLANTING AND SOWING.

In open weather, you should, as much as possible, forward
the digging and trenching vacant compartments of ground where
young trees and shrubs are to be planted in spring.

Now begin to prepare some ground, where it is not wet, for
the reception of stones and kernels of hardy fruits, to raise a
supply of stocks, for the purpose of budding and grafting upon.

These, if mild weather, may be sown about the middle or
latter end of the month, observing to sow them in beds four
feet wide ; cover the stones an inch and a half deep at least
with earth, and the kernels near an inch ; the plants will appea.
in April and May, when they must be kept clean from weeds ;
and moderate watering in dry weather will be serviceable, when
they are newly come up.

Some of them will be fit for transplanting in nursery rows
next November, and the following planting month ; or, at least,
all of them the second autumn or spring.

62

THE NURSERY.

Get ready also some ground to sow the seeds, nuts, and ber-
ries, &c, of hardy forest trees, ornamental trees, and flowering
shrubs.

The ground for this purpose must be chosen in a dry and
sheltered part of the nursery. Let it be neatly digged, and
divide it in beds three or four feet wide. The seed, &c, may
he sown in the latter end of this month, if open dry weather;
otherwise, not till February ; sowing each sort separate, and
earthed in about an inch to two inches deep in the smaller and
larger seeds.

CARE OF TENDER AND YOUNG SEEDLING TREES.

Take great care now of all the tender kinds of seedling trees,
shrubs, and other yOung plants of similar quality, raised from
seed, or by other means, last year or before ; many kinds will,
in hard frost, need some shelter.

Particularly the young seedling plants of the cedar of Leba-
non, &c, the arbutus, or strawberry tree, China arbor vita?, the
tender kinds of pines and firs, and the seedling plants of cypress,
and such like kinds of young seedling evergreens, which will
all need occasional protection in severe weather ; and, there-
fore, at the approach of the first hard frost, the pots or boxes,
&c, containing them, should be removed into a garden frame,
or some other convenience of occasional shelter ; and in the
time of hard frosts, the glasses, and other covering, if neces-
sary, put on : but- they must be kept constantly open in mild
weather.

But such tender seedling plants as are growing in beds, and
require shelter in time of frost, should be covered at such time
with mats : first erecting some hoops across the bed, and the
mats to be drawn over them occasionally for defence of the
plants.

Likewise some of ,the more hardy kinds of young plants may
be sheltered in bad weather, by laying some peas' straw, or
other long litter, lightly over them ; this will protect the tender
tops and roots from the frost.

But this covering must not be suffered to remain longer than
necessary to defend the plants.

Likewise any curious or tender young evergreens, &c, that
are planted in pots, should be placed under shelter in severe
frosts ; such as arbutus, magnolia, cistuses, China arbor vitas,
kalmias, rhododendrons, &c, placing them in a frame, or where

Jan.]

THE NURSERY.

53

they may be defended either with glasses or mats, and other
covering, if necessary, in rigorous weather.

PROPAGATING BY LAYERS.

You may still make layers, in open weather, in many sorts
of deciduous trees and shrubs that you desire to increase.

This .work of laying down the branches of shrubs and trees
to propagate them is very easily performed ; and there are a
great many kinds of trees and shrubs to be increased by this
operation, in the manner following : —

In the first place, it must be remarked, that the young
branches that were produced last summer are the most proper
parts to be layed, for these will put out roots much freer than
the branches that are a year or two older. Observing farther,
that as many of the shrub kinds branching out near the earth
afford an opportunity of laying them with great facility, but
such as run up with tall stems, and those of the tree kinds, re-
quire that some strong young plants, principally deciduous, with
stems, one, two, or three inches thick, be cut down near the
ground a year or two before, to form stools to furnish a supply
of shoots near the earth, convenient for laying therein. The
ground must be dug about the shrub or tree that is to be layed ;
and as you go on, bring down the branches, and fasten them in
the ground with hooked pegs, observing to lay down all the
young wood on each branch into the earth, covering therewith
the body of each layer three or four inches deep, and fastening
each also with a peg, if necessary ; and raise the tops upright
out of the earth.

But in laying some hard-wooded trees and shrubs, it is
necessary to slit the layer, by making a gash with a knife on
the under side, slitting it an inch or more upward » so laying
that part in the earth, keeping the gash a little open, which will
greatly assist the rooting, by promoting the emission of fibres
at the cut part. And this may also be performed to the 1 same
advantage in the laying of trees and shrubs in general.

Those which are layed in this or next month will be tolera-
bly well rooted by next autumn, and must then be separated
from the tree, and planted in the nursery to get strength

PROPAGATING FLOWERING SHRUBS, &e. BY CUTTINGS.

Plant cuttings of honey-suckles in open weather, to raise
some new plants.

Cuttings of many other kinds of flowering shrubs and trees

54

THE NURSERY.

may also still be planted : and there is a vast number of plants
that may be raised by this method. There is hardly any tree-
shrub but what may be increased either by this method, or by
layers, or by suckers from the root.

But the manner of propagating trees or shrubs by cuttings is
this : —

The cuttings must be young shoots of the last year's growth,
which must be cut with a sharp knife from the tree or shrub
you desire to propagate ; they must be from about six or eight
to twelve or fifteen inches long, according 4o their strength and
manner of growth ; let them be planted in rows a foot asunder,
and about half that distance in the row ; and every cutting in-
serted nearly half its length into the ground.

PLANTING CUTTINGS AND SUCKERS OF GOOSEBERRY AND
CURRANT BUSHES, TO RAISE A SUPPLY OF NEW PLANTS.

Propagate gooseberry and currant bushes by cuttings of the
young shoots of the branches and suckers from the root ; by
both of which methods they are propagated with great facility
and abundance, though cuttings are often more generally pre-
ferred, on consideration that they are not apt to run so much
to wood, and produce larger fruit than suckers ; but from ge-
neral observation I found no very material difference.

When designed to raise them from cuttings, they must be
shoots of the last summer's growth, and should be taken from
the most fruitful free-growing trees, and choosing the straight
clean shoots, cut them about ten, twelve, fifteen, or eighteen
inches in length, or more, according to their growth.* They
must be planted in rows, twelve or fifteen inches asunder, in-
troducing each cutting one-third or near half way into the
ground.

They will make good shoots the following, summer, and the
second or third year from planting will bear fruit.

And to propagate them by suckers, they rising abundantly
from the root in spring and summer, let them be digged up
with the roots, first or second autumn or winter after ; trim any
broken part of the root, and shorten the weak tops, then plant
them in nursery rows, and they will form good plants in a year
or two' for the garden plantations.

Observe to train both the cuttings and suckers to single clear
stems, ten or twelve to fifteen inches ; then let them branch
out at top and form heads.

* Rub all the eyes or buds off, except three or four at the top of each cut'i-*3g\

Jam T the green-house. 5fi

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Green-house plants should have fresh air admitted at all
favourable opportunities, occasional waterings, and be carefully
protected in severe weather.

In mild days, when the weather externally is moderate and
calm, let the windows be opened a little for the admission of
fresh air about ten or eleven o'clock ; and about two or three
in the afternoon let them be shut close again. But the time of
opening, and the time they should be kept open, must always
be determined by the weather ; for there are many changes of
weather, sometimes in one day, at this season.

In frosty weather, the windows must be kept constantly shut ;
and, if very severe, let the window-shutters, if any, also be shut
every night, and even occasionally in the day time, when the
frost is extremely rigorous, and no sun; or in default of shut-
ters, on this occasion, let garden mats be nailed up against all
the windows, and remove the small or more tender plants in
front, as far from danger as possible.

Keep the plants perfectly clear from decayed leaves, and as
clean as possible from any considerable foulness ; and every
part of the house clean and free from litter of fallen leaves, &c,
all of which is essential at this time for the prosperity of the
plants in general.

When the weather is foggy, or very wet, it will be proper
to keep the green-house close.

Water must be given to such plants as you see require it ;
but let that be given in very moderate quantities, and always,
if possible, take the opportunity of a mild day, and if sunny,
the better ; in the forenoon, from . eleven to twelve or one
o'clock, is the proper time of the day for watering at this sea-
son ; and generally prefer the soft water of a pond, river, or
cistern, &c. for this occasion.'

But very little water must be given at this season of the year
to any of the aloes, sedums, or any other of the succulent
plants.

Let it likewise be observed, that such of the woody exotics,
as oranges, myrtles, geraniums, &c. as you shall see necessary
to water, should have but a very moderate quantity given them
at one time, at this season.

In such green-houses, where there is the convenience of

£6

THE HOT-HOUSE.

flues, for occasional fire-heat hvvery rigorous weather, should,
in time of continued severe frost, make moderate fires in an
evening and morning, just sufficient to warm the enclosed air
enough to resist the frost ; also in very foggy or moist weather,
may make a very moderate fire to expel the damp, which often
proves pernicious to some of the more delicate exotics of this
department.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

PINES.

At this season the pinery hot-house requires good attendance,
for some of the pines will now, towards the end of the month,
begin to show fruit ; and your assistance is at no time more
necessary than when the fruit first appears, especially in one
particular, the supporting a proper bottom heat ; for if the heat
of the bark-bed is not kept up at that time, the young fruit
will receive a check more than may be imagined ; as, notwith-
standing the air of the house can be sufficiently warmed by the
flues, yet these, plants also require always a moderately brisk
growing heat to their roots, but especially when the fruit is
young ; and without that assistance, they will not advance
freely in their first growth, and being checked therein, will be
much inferior in size to what they otherwise would have been.

Examine therefore carefully at this time the heat of the bark-
bed in which the pots of pines are plunged ; and if you find it
very faint, take up all the pots, and let the bark be forked up
to the bottom. But before you proceed to this, if the heat
is found much decayed, or the bark considerably wasted, or be-
come very small or earthy, it will be advisable to add at the
same time a little new tan, first removing away some- of the
wasted bark at top and sides, and then fill up with new hark,
working the old and new well together. When that is done,
let the pots be replunged again to their rims, in a regular man-
ner, as above. This will enliven the heat greatly ; and, if done
in proper time, the young fruit will grow freely.

Let the fires be made very regularly every evening and morn-
ing, and take care that they are not made too strong, for that
would be of very bad consequence ; and to avoid this, have a

Jan.]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

57

thermometer placed in the hot-house, as a direction to regulate
the degree of heat.

Water should be given to the pine-apple plants once a-week,
or fortnight, or as it may seem necessary, and always very mo-
derately ; and let as little as possible fall into the heart or be-
tween the leaves at this season.

For the conveniency of watering the pines and other plants
that are plunged in the bark-bed, a long pipe, made of tin,
would be eligible to use occasionally : this should be in three
different joints, in order that it may be shortened or lengthen-
ed, as you see it convenient. : one of these joints should have
a funnel made at the largest end, that, by pouring the water
out of a handy watering-pot into the funnel, the water is con-
veyed to the pots in any part of the bed, with greater exact-
ness, without pouring it into the heart of the plants.

Generally have soft water, if possible, for watering the dif-
ferent sorts of hot-house plants ; and might have a tub or cis-
tern placed conveniently to the hot-house to hold water occas-
ionally, just to take off the cold chill, at this season, previous
to watering.

All other tender exotic plants in the hot-house or stove should
be supplied with water as they require it.

The woody kinds will require it often, but those that are of
the succulent tribe will require it but seldom ; or, at least, but
very little must be given them at a time.

Every plant in the hot-house or stove should be kept per-
fectly clean from dust or any sort of foulness ; if any thing of
that nature appears on their leaves, let the large-leaved sorts
be washed with a sponge, &c, the others by occasionally water-
ing them all over the top.

KIDNEY-BEANS RAISED IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

Those who have the conveniency of a hot-house may raise
early kidney-beans with little trouble. The early negro dwarf,
speckled-dwarf, and dung-coloured, are proper sorts for this pur-
pose.

The method is this : — fill some large pots, or oblong narrow
boxes, with rich dry earth, and place them on the top of the
surrounding wall of the bark-bed, and upon the coping of the
front and other flues, with the bottom raised detachedly two
or three inches above the coping, that the heat of the flues
may issue freely, and that it may not scorch the earth in the
pots, &c, observing to plant three or four beans in each, about

c 2

58

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[Jan.

an inch in depth, in the pots ; or, if oblong boxes are used
instead of pots, have them made about two feet in length and
about nine inches in depth, and plant the beans in them along
the middle, in a triangular manner, and two or three inches
asunder. After having got the planting finished and the
earth smoothed, set the pots or boxes as above directed, and
the beans will soon sprout and come up.*

As soon as the plants have sprouted, sprinkle the earth
with a little water, which will assist them in coming up : when
they are up, water them frequently.

Let the plants be refreshed with proper waterings two or
three times every week, and they will vegetate freely and
rapidly, and produce a plentiful crop in the months'of March
and April.

A successional crop may be planted in a fortnight or three
weeks afterwards in small pots, to be ready for turning out,
with balls of earth, into the larger pots or the oblong boxes.

OF CUCUMBERS IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

Cucumbers are sometimes raised early, in pretty good con-
dition in the hot-house.

This is effected by sowing or planting the seed in large
pots, or oblong narrow boxes, and placing them in some con-
venient situation in the hot-house, near the glasses; the
boxes used for this purpose may be two or three feet long, a
foot broad, and a foot deep. Fill the pots or oblong boxes
with rich earth, or good vegetable m*uld, sow or plant the
cucumber seed in them, and place them up near the top
glasses, behind the back or end flues, or even upon the top
of them, with the bottoms of the pots or boxes raised and
detached two or three inches, that the heat of the flues may
not be confined, but be transmitted freely all around, as
observed above in the directions given for the management of
kidney-beans. But the best situation for cucumber plants is to
place them by means of supports within about fifteen or eighteen
inches of the top glasses, nearly under or towards the upper
ends of the superior tier of fixed lights.

The seed may either be sown in small pots, and placed in a
dung hot-bed, or the bark-bed in the hot-house to raise the

* Or, what we consider an improvement on the ahove plan, plant first in pots of
th? size called No. 32, and afterwards shift into pots of No. 24; in both cases
placing a little rotten dung in the bottoms of the pots, and covering with a lew
iuehea of rich light mould.

Jan.]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

59

plants, or may be sown at once in the pots or boxes, six or eight
seeds in a small patch ; or in a box of two or three feet long
you may sow two such patches : and when the plants are up,
they should be thinned out, leaving two or three of the strongest
plants in each place.

Or, if you raise the plants first in small pots plunged in the bark-
oed or in a dung hot-bed, let them be afterwards transplanted,
with a ball of earth about their roots, into the boxes or larger pots.

When the runners of the plants have advanced to the outside
of the pots or boxes, you may fix up some laths to support the
vines or runners, which should be fastened to them. Let them
have water frequently, for they will require it every other day
at least.

EARLY STRAWBERRIES IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

Strawberries may te brought to early perfection in the hot-
house ; and, if desired, this is the time to begin to introduce
therein some pots of good bearing plants.

The scarlet and Alpine strawberries are the sorts that will
succeed best ; they should be planted in pots, observing to choose
young, two or three years' plants, full bearers ; take them up
with a ball of earth about their roots, and plant one in each
pot : but this should be done in open mild weather some consid-
erable time before you place them in the hot-house. — See next
month. Or it would be more advisable to have the plants
for this purpose potted about Michaelmas, or in October, &c.

Place the pots now towards the front of the hot-house, near
the glasses, and let them have water frequently, especially when
they are in blossom, and the fruit young ; but observing, that
when they are in blossom, not to water too freely over the
flowers, giving it only chiefly to the earth in the pots.

OF FLOWERING PLANTS IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

In the hot-house you may likewise bring many kinds of
flowers to blow at an early season, by placing therein pots or
boxes containing the plants, any time this month,

Particularly such as pots of roses and honey-suckles, Persian
lilac, hypericums, syringas, African-heaths, cytissus, and other
small desirable flowering shrubs ; pots of pinks, carnations,
sweet-williams, wall and stock July-flowers, &c. and pots or
boxes of any kinds of bulbous roots, planted either in earth or
sand, also seeds of any moderate-growing curious annual flowers
sown in pots.

80

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Feb.

FEBRUARY.

• WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
CUCUMBERS AND MELONS.

Where the raising of early cucumbers and melons was nol
begun last month, it may now be commenced the beginning or
middle of this, with a greater prospect of success ; observing
exactly the same method of making the seed hot-bed, sowing
the seed, and general management of the bed and plants, as
directed under the head Cucumbers, &c. in the kitchen-garden
of January.

RIDGING OUT EARLY CUCUMBETCS AND MELONS.

If the cucumber and melon plants, which were raised last
month, or beginning of this, have not suffered by any of the
accidents that are attendant on them at this season, they will
now be arrived at a proper growth for ridging out into a larger
hot-bed, finally to remain ; a new hot-bed, for one or more
larger frames, should therefore be prepared in due time for
their reception.

Provide for that purpose, the beginning or middle of this
month, a proper quantity of fresh horse-stable dung from the
dung-hills in stable-yards, &c. consisting of the warm, moist
stable-litter and dung of the horses together; such as has lain
some time, but that is moderately fresh, abounding in a good
moist steamy heat ; taking the short and long together as it
comes to hand ; and of which provide as much as will make
a bed for one or more frames three feet and a half high. The
necessary quantity is one tolerable cart-load to every light ; so,
if for a three-light frame, three loads is requisite, or about thirty
large wheelbarrows full ; and so in proportion for every such
frame.*

The dung being procured, it would be proper, especially if
rather rank and fresh, to fork it up in a heap to remain, eight,
ten, or twelve days, according to its condition or quantity, tba
it may ferment to an equal temperature. If possible, let the
heap be turned over once in the time ; which will let the rank
steam and strong stench of the dung pass off; and by mixing

* For cucumbers at this season, the bed should not be less than four feet at the back,
Md three and a half at the front ; and for melons let the bed be made eight or ten
inches higher, as they will now require a rather brisker heat kept up tothemdurine
their culture than the cucumbers.

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

61

the parts together, it will mellow ■ and prepare the dung well,
Dy which means it will work kindly, when made up into a bed ;
the heat will be steady and lasting, and not so liable to become
too violent, or of a burning quality, as when the dung is not
previously prepared as above.

The dung being thus prepared, proceed to making the hot-
bed : begin the bed by shaking some of the longest dung into
the bottom, then take the dung as it comes to hand, and fork
it in equally on every part, and beat it down with the fork from
time to time, as you go on. In this manner let the bed be
carried up neatly and even on every side, three feet and half
high, which height may appear considerable at first, but we
must allow for settling, as it will probably settle a foot in less
than a fortnight.

The bed being finished, put on the frame or frames and
lights, which will defend the bed from wet, and bring up the
heat the sooner ; tilting the upper end of the lights a little,
that the steam may pass Off. In a week after the bed is made,
if it has settled unequally, take off the frame, and make the bed
level, then immediately put on the frame again for good.

After this let the state of the bed be daily examined with
good attention ; and when you find the violent heat is over,
lay in the earth ; but be sure let the burning heat be over first.

The earth for this purpose should be rich, and it should also
be quite dry ; for that is a material article to be regarded at
this season. The earth proper for cucumbers may be either
any prepared compost of rich earth, light loam, and rotten dung,
or of the temperature of light rich kitchen-garden earth ; or
may previously prepare a quantity from any of the quarters of
the kitchen-garden, provided it be naturally light and dry, and
has been well enriched with dung: but these earths should be
prepared three or four months before you want to use them, so
should, in a dry time, about Michaelmas, be brought in and
thrown up in a heap ridgeways, in a dry place, open to the sun
and free air, mixing therewith at the same time some good
rotten dung, breaking and blending the whole well together ; a
due quantity of this compost heap should be carried into some
shed, or other sheltered place, open in front to the sun or free
air, a month or a fortnight at least before you want it, that it
may be preserved perfectly dry for earthing the bed.*

* Tiie directions hitherto given for cucumbers and melons, are the same. They will
now, however, require to be treated a little differently, particularly in regard to
«oil, the melons requiring a much stronger soil, than the cucumbers. The soil which
we consider the best for the melons, is strong brown loam, from rich old pasture

62

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Feb

Then when the bed is in order, lay about half a bushel, or
rather more, of earth, just under the middle of each light, rais-
ing each parcel of earth in a round hillock, ten or twelve inches
high ; then let the spaces between the hills, and quite to the
sides of the frame be covered with the same sort of earth, only
two or three inches thick at this time, while the bed is in strong
heat, for fear of burning, as explained below ; but which when
the heat is become moderate, is by degrees to be augmented
till raised as high as the top of the hills, as hereafter directed.

The reason for laying the earth in little hills, and not earth,
ing the bed fully at once, is by way of precaution, in case of
violent after-heat, and in which case it will more readily pass
off in steam, between the hills, and likewise because we may
venture to use the bed some days sooner than if it was to be
earthed all over at once to the full thickness ; for if the bed
should burn after the plants are in, you can more readily pre-
vent the earth, and also the roots of the plants from being
burned thereby, by drawing the earth away from round the bot-
tom of the hills if it burns, and supply the places still with more
fresh mould.

As soon as the bed is earthed as above, put on the glasses :
and by the next day, the hillocks of earth will be warm ; if
they be, level the top of each a little, so that they may be about
eight or ten inches thick ; then proceed to put in the plants,
the cucumbers and melons separately, in different hotbeds, or
distinct frames, &c.

Previous to this, observe, that as having, last month, directed
the plants to be pricked into small pots, three cucumbers and
two melons * in each pot separately ; and as they are now to
be turned out of these pots with the ball of earth entire, and
planted, one pot of plants in each of the above hills of earth, I
would thereby intimate, in this, final transplanting, that two of
the best cucumber plants and only one melon would be the
most eligibly sufficient to retain, cutting the others away, either
now or after planting ; however, in either case, it is advisable,
previously to transplanting, that, in order to have the whole ball

/and, to which add a portion of light sandy soil, with some leaf mould and some good
well rotten dung; and in earthing up the melons the soil should be firmly trodden
round the hills, and made as solid as possible, but in doing this, care must be taken
not to bruise or injure the roots. The soil for cucumbers may be principally of vege-
table mould, made from decayed tree leaves, or any other decayed vegetable matter,
to which may be added a portion of light loam. The compost which we used in
the royal gardens at Kensington and Kew for early cucumbers was of light loam
a few months from the common, one third part ; good rotten dung, one third part :
leaf mould and peat of equal parts, making together another part : the whole well
mixed together

* Or only three plants altogether.

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

of earth adhere closely about the roots, to give the pets some
water the day before ; and the method of planting is this
having some pots of the strongest plants ready, place your hand
on the surface of the pot, taking the stems of the plants care-
fully between your fingers ; then turn the mouth of the pot
downwards, and strike the edge gently on the frame ; the plants,
with the ball of earth to their roots, will come out entire ;.then,
making a hole in the middle of each hill of earth, place one pot
of plants, with the ball entire, in each hole, closing the earth
well round the ball, and about an inch over the top, bringing
the earth close round the stems of the plants ; then give a very
moderate watering towards the outside of the ball of the plants;
this done, then shut all the lights down close for the present,
till the steam rises again strong ; then must be tilted a little
behind, in proportion, to give it vent.

The plants being ridged out finally into the beds where they
are to rernain for fruiting, must be careful to give them fresh air
every day, by raising the glasses a little for its admission, and
for the great steam to pass off ; and it is necessary to cover the
lights every night with mats, putting them on about half an
hour, or an hour, or little more or less, after the time of sunset,
and uncover again in the morning about sunrising : in covering
up, never let the ends of the mats hang down low over the sides
of the frame, which would stifle the plants, and draw up a hurt-
ful steam.

Air must be admitted to them every day, when the weather
is anything favourable, by raising the upper end of the glasses
from about half an inch to an inch or two, or in proportion to
the sharpness or mildness of the outward air, and internal heat
and steam of the bed.

In giving the plants air, it is a good method, at this season,
in cutting weather, to fasten a mat across the ends of the lights,
where tilted to hang down detachedly over the place where the
air enters the frame ; the mat will break the wind and sharp air
before it reaches the plants, and yet there will be a due propor-
tion of air admitted, without exposing them directly to it ; and
there will also be full liberty to let the steam pass off.

Likewise, in covering the glasses on nights with mats, if
there be a strong heat and great steam in the bed, let the lights
be raised a little behind when you cover up ; let them remain
so all night, and use the mats as above-mentioned, to hang
down before the place where the glasses are raised.

One great article to be attended to now is, to support a con-

64 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Feb.

stant growing heat in the hotbed, so as to keep the plants in a
regular growing state. The first thing to be observed toward
this is, that in six or eight days after ridging out the plants,
provided the heat of the bed is become moderate, it will be very
proper to give some outward protection of dry long litter, waste
hay, fern, straw, &c, laying it close round the sides near a foot
thick, and as high as five or six inches up the sides of the frame;
but this will be particularly serviceable if very wet weather, but
more especially, if driving cold rains, or snow, as also, if there
be cold piercing winds, all of which would chill the bed, and,
without the above precaution, would sometimes occasion such
sudden and great decay of the heat as to prove the manifest
destruction of the plants ; whereas the above lining of litter
will defend the bed, and preserve a fine heat till the dung be-
gins naturally to decline or decay of itself, which is generally in
about three weeks or a month after the bed is made, when the
warmth of it must be renewed by adding a lining of fresh hot
dung close to its sides.

But for the first week or ten days after the plants are ridged
out into this hotbed, mind that their roots have not too much
heat ; for it sometimes happens that a bed, after the mould and
plants are in, the earth, confining the heat and steam more
below in the dung, will begin afresh to heat so violently, as to
be in danger of burning the earth at the bottom of the hills : and
without some precaution is taken, the burning will soon reach
the roots of the plants : therefore, for the first week or ten days,
let the bottom of the hillocks be at times examined, by drawing
away a little of the earth below ; and if any burning appear,
remove the burned earth, replace it with new, and by drawing
some of the earth away quite round, let the hills be kept as
narrow as they will just stand, so as to support the plants, and
so let them remain till the danger of burning is over ; and then
put the earth round them again.

When the great heat abates, or the roots of the plants begin
to appear through the sides of the hills of earth, then begin to
add some fresh, light, rich earth all round them ; about three
flays after you may lay some more ; and in two or three days
after that,* you may earth the bed all over, to the full thick-
ness, so as to be equal with the top of the hillocks. But before
you lay the fresh earth to the sides of the hills, let it first be
laid a few hours, or for one night in the frame, up towards the
sides, that it may acquire an equal degree of warmth with that

# In ten or fourteen days.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

65

in the bed; then, being applied round the hills, as above, it
will not be in danger of chilling the roots of the plants.

The next particular care is that of lining the hotbed when the
heat declines : therefore, when the heat of the bed begins to
decrease much, let a lining of the best hot dung be applied in
due time to the back or front of the bed, or to both, if the heat
is very much declined. The dung for this purpose should be
prepared in the same manner as that for making the bed. Re-
member, that if there was a lining of dry litter laid round the
sides of the bed, to defend it from wet, &c, as before directed,
this must first be removed before you apply the lining of the
sides of the bed, about twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches wide,
according as the heat is less or more declined, and should be
raised about four or five inches higher than the dung of the
bed,* to allow for settling : lay some earth on the top of the
lining, to keep the rank cutting steam of the fresh dung from
coming up that way; which, if it did, it would be apt to enter
the frame, at the place where the lights are raised to admit air,
and prove of bad consequence to the plants.

OF STOPPING OR TOPPING THE ABOyE PLANTS.

The young plants, both cucumbers and melons, should be
stopped or topped, if not done before, at the first joint, by
pruning off the top of the first runner-bud ; which being neces-
sary both to strengthen them in promoting a stocky growth, and
cause them to put forth lateral shoots at the first and second
joints, to form fruitful runners : and from these, others of the
same nature will be produced.

This operation should be performed when the plants have
two rough leaves, and when the second rough leaf is about the
breadth of a shilling, having the first runner-bud rising at its
base: and the sooner this is detached, the sooner the plants
acquire strength, and put out fruitful runners.

It is to be done in the following manner :

You will see arising, in the centre of the plant, at the bottom
of the second rough leaf, and as it were enclosed within it, the
end of the first runner, like a small bud; which bud, or runner,
Deing the advancing top of the plant, is now to be taken off
close, and may be done either with the point of a penknife or
small scissors, or pinched off carefully with the finger and
thumb ; or, when it .is very small, it may be picked off with the
point of a pin or needle ; but whichever way you take it off, be

* Or to the height of the frame.

66 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Feb.

careful not to go so close as to wound the joint from whence it
proceeds-.

Having thus pruned or stopped the plants at the first joint,
they will by that means very quickly get strength, as will plainly
appear in a few days ; and in about a week or ten or twelve
days after being thus treated, will each begin to send forth two
or three runners ; which runners will probably show fruit at
their first, second, or third joints ; for if the main or first runner
was not to be stopped as above, it would perhaps run half a
yard or two feet in length, without putting out more runners to
fill the frame, or probably without showing a single fruit; so
that it is upon these lateral shoots or runners produced after
stopping the plants, that the fruit is most likely first to appear
in any tolerable time in the season ; but let it be also observed,
that when the said lateral shoots have three joints, and ■ that if
any of them do not then show fruit at either of the -joints, it
will be proper to pinch off the top of such shoots at the third
joint, which will promote their putting forth a supply of two or
three new shoots, some or all of which will most likely be fruit-
ful ; and after this, according as they advance in growth, train
the runners along in regular order, cut out casual very weakly
vines, and thin others where very irregularly crowded ; and thus,
if the bed is well managed, and the plants are forward, those of
the cucumbers will probably produce proper-sized fruit the end
of this month, or beginning or middle of next; but the melons
not so soon by six or eight weeks, or not till May or June. —
See next month.

OF SOWING CUCUMBER AND MELON SEED.

As there may be many persons who did not begin last month
to sow cucumbers for an early crop, it will here be proper to
take notice, that the beginning, middle, or any time of this
month, is still a good time to begin that work, making a seed
hotbed for sowing the seed, as directed in January.

Those which are sown early in this month, will, with good
management, produce fruit in the end of March or beginning of
April ; and those sown in the middle or latter end of the month
vvill have fruit the end of April, and will bear plentifully in May
and June, &c.

The beginning of this month is a very good time to begin to
sow melons for a good crop in the frames.

The seed hotbed which is to be made now, either for cucurn-

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

G7

bers or melons, must be of the same dimensions ; and the seed
sown, and the plants managed, as directed last month.

But observe, that to be well supplied with either cucumber
or melon plants, either to plant in new beds, or to have a re-
serve in case of accidents to any already planted out, it will be
very proper to sow some seed at three different times this
month.

Or these may be sown each time in such cucumber hotbeds
as are already made, and in cultivation : and when fit to prick
out, let it be mostly in small pots, as directed in raising the
plants last month, and plunging in the back part of the same
bed.

They may be kept there till wanted, either for new, or to
supply any deficiency in the present beds.

FORCING ASPARAGUS.

Hotbeds for obtaining early asparagus may be made any
time in this month.

For the purpose of forcing asparagus, we must be provided
with proper plants ; these are previously raised in the natural
ground, from seed, as hereafter directed, which being trans-
planted from the seedbed into other beds in the common
ground, and having two or three years' growth there, they are
then of the proper size and strength for forcing : observing that
the necessary quantity is from about five to six or seven hun-
dred for a bed for a three-light frame, and so in proportion for
two or more such frames ; for these plants in hotbeds should be
crowded very close, in order that, by having as many plants as
possible in each frame, they may produce a proportionable sup-
ply of asparagus, to recompense sufficiently for the great trouble
and expense requisite in forcing.

The hotbeds, for this purpose of forcing asparagus, are made
of fresh horsedung, full of heat, and must be made very sub-
stantial ; provide, therefore, a proper quantity of the above sort
of dung, as directed for cucumber hotbeds ; fork it up togethei
in a mixed order, into a heat; and in a week or a' fortnight, ac-
cording to the quantity and quality of the dung, it will be of a
proper temperature for making the hotbed.

The dung being thus in order, then prepare to make the
hotbed, which must be made of proper dimensions, for one or
more three-light frames in a range, allowing for it to be three
inches wider on every side than the frame, and make it a yard
high at least, and level the top even and smooth : then directly,

68

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

without putting on the frame as yet, earth it all over, six o.
seven inches thick, for the immediate reception of the plants,
for no time must be lost in making the most of the hotbed in
forcing asparagus ; but remarking, the frame must not yet be
put on ; for the heat of the bed being very strong at first, the
framing and glasses, if put on close, and thereby excluding the
external air, would make it heat too violently.

The bed being made, and earthed as above, then having a
proper quantity of asparagus plants, proceed to place them on
the surface of the earth : previously raising at one end a small
ridge of earth, five or six inches high, against which to place
the first course of plants. This done, mark on the surface the
width of the frame, and then begin and place the plants against
this little ridge of earth, gathered as close to one another as
possible, drawing a little of the earth to the bottom of the roots;
then place the others against these in the same manner, and so
continue laying them one against another, crowded as close
together every way as possible to the width of the mark for the
frame, from one end to the other of the bed, with their tops or
crowns all upright, and of an equal level : then when the whole
bed is thus planted, let some moist earth be directly banked up
against the outside roots, all around, an inch or two higher than
their tops ; which done, cover the crowns of the roots all over
with rich light earth, about two inches thick, which concludes
the work for the present, till the buds or young shoots of the
asparagus begin to appear through the earth.

Or in a week, or ten or twelve days after the bed is made
and planted, if the heat has become moderate, or if very bad
weather, great snow, or excessive rains, &c, may put on the
frame and lights ; but if a considerably extensive bed, as the
heat will continue longer in a violent state, must be cautious in
framing it too soon before the buds begin to advance, or defend
the top occasionally with straw-litter, &c.

When the buds, therefore, of the asparagus begin to appear
through the surface of the earth, then prepare to add another
portion of three or four inches' depth of more mould; previous
to this, a wreath of thick straw-bands should be fixed round the
top of the earth of the bed, close" to the edge, both to secure
the outsides of this farther supply of earth, and to place the
tame on ; for this purpose make some large straw-bands or
ropes, three or four inches thick, and having a quantity of smal.
sharp-pointed wooden pegs, fix the straw-band down neatly
along the top of the earth, next the edge, just in the proper

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

69

place to receive the bottom of the frame, for it serves both to
secure the second covering of earth, and support the frame when
it is put on ; when the wreath is thus fixed, then cover the
young buds of the asparagus all over with a supply of light
earth, three or four inches thick, or as high as the top of the
aforesaid wreath, to have it six inches' depth at least in the
whole, over the crown of the plants.

Having applied the second addition of earth, then, if you
judge that all danger from burning is over, it will be proper to
put on the frame ; place it upon the wreath of straw-bands, and,
as soon as thus placed, put on the lights or glasses of the frame.

After the frame is placed on the bed, it is necessary, if there
is a great steam, to raise or shove open the lights at top occa-
sionally an inch or two, to give the steam vent to pass away,
and to admit fresh air, but especially when the buds first begin
to appear.

Observe, that if, during the time the bed is without the frame,
there should happen excessive rains, or great snow, it is proper
to cover occasionally with mats or straw, &c.

But it must be remarked, that for the first week or fortnight
after the bed is made, and the asparagus planted, that the state
of its warmth should be every day carefully examined : for that
purpose, thrust two or three long sharp-pointed sticks down
betwixt the roots into the dung in different parts of the bed ;
when upon drawing up the sticks, once or twice a-day, and
feeling the lower end, you can readily judge of the degree, of
heat ; which, if found very violent, threatening to burn the
earth and scorch the roots of the plants, it must be moderated,
by boring, with a long thick stake, several wide holes in the
dung, on each side of the bed, also in the earth just under the
roots, to admit the air, and to let the rank steam and burning
quality of the dung pass off more freely ; but, when the heat is
become moderate, the holes must be closed again.

Likewise observe, when the heat is moderate, it will be very
proper to lay a quantity of dry long litter round the sides of the
bed, which will preserve a fine kindly growing heat, and will
defend the bed from being chilled by heavy rains, snow, &c.

But in the next place observe, that by the time the frame is
put on, or soon after, you must be careful to examine the state
of heat in the bed ; and if beginning to decline considerably,
you should prepare to renew it as soon as possible : which is to
be done by applying a lining of hot dung to the sides of it, as
directed for cucumber and melon beds.

70 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [FEB

Fresh air must be admitted in fine weather daily, especially
if the heat of the bed is strong, when the buds begin to appear
through this last covering of earth ; for fresh air is necessary
both to give them colour, and prevent their drawing up too fast
and weak : therefore, in fine sunny days, either tilt the upper
ends of the lights an ipch or two, or shove them a little down,
as may be convenient ; but keep them close in all cold or very
bad weather, and always on nights.

Continue to cover the glasses every night with mats or straw.

The bed, if made and managed as above directed, will begin
to produce asparagus abundantly in four or five weeks ; and,
provided the heat be kept up, will continue producing buds in
great plenty for about a fortnight or three weeks. A bed for a
three-light frame will, for that time, produce three or four hun-
dred buds a-week.

The method of gathering the asparagus in hotbeds is, to
thrust your finger down gently into the earth, and break the
buds off close to the roots, which they will readily do ; but the
cutting them with a knife, as practised in the natural ground,
would, by reason of the buds coming up so very thick one under
another, destroy as many or more than you gather.

When it is intended to have a constant supply of asparagus
in the winter and spring season, till that in the natural ground
comes in, you should make a new hotbed every three weeks or
a month.

A quantity of fresh plants must also be procured for every
new bed ; for those which have been once forced in a hotbed
are not fit for any use afterwards, either in a hotbed or the
natural ground.

When designed to raise asparagus plants for forcing, should
sow some seed every year, in a bed of rich earth, as directed
below ; observing, when the plants are one year old, to trans-
plant them into an open compartment, in rows, nine inches
asunder, and about the same distance in the rows. When they
have two or three summers' growth, they are then fit to take up
for forcing ; but if they stand three years before you take them
up, they will produce much larger buds.

It is necessary to have three different pieces of ground
always employed at the same time with asparagus plants for the
above purpose ; that is, one piece for the seedbed with seedling
plants, which should never stand longer than one year before
transplanted ; the other two pieces to be occupied with trans-
planted plants; one to be a year's growth from the time of

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN".

71

planting before the other ; by which method of sowing a quan-
tity of seed, and planting out a quantity of plants every spring,
you will, after the first three years, obtain a fresh supply of pro-
per plants every year, of eligible age and growth, as above, fit
for forcing.

The season to sow the seed is the last week in February, or
first fortnight in March : it should be sown in a spot of light
rich ground ; sow it tolerably thick, and tread it down evenly,
then rake it into the ground in a regular manner. — See March.

The season to transplant the plants from the seedbed is in
March, observing the method as directed in that month.

The season to begin to make hotbeds for forcing these planes
is according to the time you desire to have the plants fit for
use ; for instance, if you desire them at Christmas, begin in the
second or third week in November.

Such persons as do not choose to raise the plants themselves
for forcing, or such as desire to be furnished with plants for that
purpose, till their own are ready, may in either case be supplied
with them at most of the kitchen-gardeners near great cities,
but particularly those near London, many of whom raise great
quantities purposely for forcing.

They may be purchased generally by the rod of ground they
grow upon, and about eight or ten shillings per rod is the price :
there are generally between two and three hundred roots in a
rod j and two and half, or three rods at most, is sufficient for a
three-light frame.

. These plants, if properly packed up in hampers, or boxes,
with straw, may be conveyed to a great distance : I have had
4em come sixty miles in the winter season for forcing ; when
they have come very safe, and produced buds plentifully*

* Asparagus is very generally forced upon hotbeds composed of well-ferment-
ed dung, and frequently of dung- and tree leaves mixed together, which produce a
more steady and genial heat than dung only.

When there is the convenience of a dued pit, the vegetable may be forced with
equal success and less trouble. Much fire-heat will seldom be required. A slight
fire at night will generally be sufficient.

f™„t'rJinff,in the n"'b?d> ths du"S> "r dung and leaves, having been carefully
fermented and prepared, let the bed at this season be three feet high in front, and
2?ifffJ S*hf or ten lnc'les be]1jnd • ani Put a feu- rotten leaves upon the surface,

iwVi . mie '5 put on ildd a ,ew more- if the dpPth of the frilme "'ill admit-

reJ?ul»ri)' down with the back of a spade, and over the surface lay four
or five inclies of light, rich, vegetable mould.

r,rit3 ',,0.Pl!l"fs "irefully, trim their roots, and lav them upon the bed in regular
Swf h i "S e y 35 P°sslble i mixing a little fine leaf mould amongst their roots
« t the finger as you proceed. Cover them, to the depth of four or five inches,
«n «,„ L« ??" 5.' dry' veSeti»ble mould. Put ou the lights, and keep them close
ou tlie heat begins to come up.

72

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Feb.

MUSHROOMS.

Take care that the mushroom beds are still well defended
from heavy rains and- frost, both of which would destroy the
spawn.

The covering of straw should never be less than twelve inches
thick on every part of the bed : and at this season, it would be
proper to continue some large garden mats, spread over the
straw covering, to secure the bed more effectually from wet and
cold : and observing, that if the wet at any time has penetrated
quite through any part of the covering, let the wet straw be re-
moved, and replaced with some that is clean and dry.

New mushroom- beds may be made. For the particular
method and management, see September.*

Air should then be admitted, and when the buds begin to come up, air should be
admitted, as freely as the state of the weather will allow, by drawing- off the lights
a few hours every fine day. If the heat of the bed become too violent, it may be
moderated by boring- round the sides into the centre of the bed with a long thick
stick; the holes to be filled up when the heat becomes moderate. When the heat
begins much to decline, let linings of hot dung be applied by degrees, as the state of
the bed may require. The temperature may be ascertained by one or two sticks
kept thrust into the bed, which may be pulled out occasionally, and felt with the
hand. The vegetable will come to greatest perfection in a temperature of not less
than 50°, and not more than 55°.

Asparagus will seldom require water, when forced in hotbeds ; but when forced
in flued-pits, however, a more abundant supply will be required. When the shoots
axe about four or five inches above the surface, they are then in a proper state for
using. A three-light frame of ordinary dimensions, filled with good plants, with
good management, will produce four or five dishes a-week for three weeks.

For successional crops, a fresh bed will be required every three or four weeks ;
for which a supply of fresh plants must be kept up in the open ground, as the plants
that have once been forced are of no further use.

* Forcing Rhubarb. — There are, we believe, few vegetables at this season that
are more generally in demand than rhubarb and sea-kale ; and, we may add, that a
supply of no other vegetables can be so easily obtained by forcing as these, or that
are so much improved by being forced. Abundant supplies of these two much-
esteemed vegetables may be procured, in most situations, without much trouble or
expense, from the end of November till they come in again in the natural ground.

Where there is the convenience of hothouses, a supply of rhubarb may be had by
digging up a dozen or two of their roots with balls, and placing them into a vinery,
or any other sort of hothouse, upon the border, closely together, putting a few
inches of rich vegetable mould below them, and filling up any spaces between
the roots. Lay a little of the mould round the sides, and give the necessary supply
of water; if the temperature of the house is as high as :"i0°, they will soon begin
to spring, when, in order to blanch them, they should be covered over with a little
soft, dry hay, and over that a bass-mat, which will help to keep the hay dry. If
they are put into the vinery when the forcing is commenced, the footstalks of the
/eaves will be ready for tarts in about a month or five weeks.

Where there is not the convenience of a hothouse, rhubarb may be forced in a
frame, upon a slight hotbed, prepared in the same way as directed for asparagus ;
and the frame may either be covered with wooden shutters, or the lights may be
put on ; and when tin* roots begin to spring, cover them with mats or soft hay.

Rhubarb may also be successfully forced, where there is neither the convenience
of hothouses or frames, at any time after the month of November, in the open
ground, in rows, by placing blanchiug-pots, or long deep boxes, over the roots, and
forming a ridge of hot dung or leaves over them : the dung should be about two or
two and a half feet high, and should be protected from heavy rains and snows by a
cuvering of straw, in order that it may retain the heat the longer.

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

73

KIDNEY-BEANS.

The beginning, or any time this month, you may make a
hotbed for some early kidney-beans.

Prepare for that purpose some new horse-dung, as directed
for cucumber and other hotbeds ; with which let the beds be
made about two feet and a half high, and long enough for one
or more frames. Make the surface of the bed even and smooth,
and put on the frame. When the heat is become moderate, let
the bed be covered with rich light earth, seven or eight inches
thick : then draw drills from the back to the front of the frame,
a foot asunder, and an inch deep. Drop the beans therein, two
or three inches apart, and cover them an inch deep with earth.

Or may sow the beans thick in a small hotbed, or in pots
therein, to raise the plants about an inch in growth, then trans-
planted into a larger hotbed, as above, to remain.

The best sorts for this purpose are, the early white dwarf,
black, and liver-coloured dwarf kidney-beans, because they
come earlier, and do not run so strong or rampant as the other
sorts.

When the plants begin to appear, raise the lights a little be-
hind, every mild day, to admit fresh air to strengthen their
growth ; giving also occasional gentle waterings, continuing
the same care in their advancing state, and support a proper
heat in the bed: they will thus afford an early produce in
April, &c.

But where there is a hothouse, may raise early kidney or
French beans, generally with much less trouble, and more cer-
tain good success, than in hotbeds, as above.

SMALL SALADING.

Sow the different sorts of small salading once a-week or ten
days, such as cresses, mustard, radish, rape, and lettuce, &c.

These small salad seeds, if open mild weather towards the
latter end of the month, may be now sown in beds or borders of
natural earth, in the common ground ; but, provided you have
the conveniency, it will, notwithstanding, be proper to shelter
the bed with a frame and lights, or with bell or hand-glasses ;
or where these are wanting, you may sow the seeds on warm
borders, and shelter them at night, and in bad weather with a
covering of mats.

Choose for these seeds a spot of dry light ground; dig it
aeatly, and rake the surface fine ; then draw fiat shallow drills

D

74

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Feb.

sow the seed therein, each sort separate, very thick, and earth
it over not more than a quarter of an inch deep ; and if intended
to cover with glasses, let them be directly put on : and when
the plants come up, give air by raising the lights behind, or bv
taking them off in fine days.

But if the weather should now prove very cold, such as frost,
snow, or cold rain, and that a constant supply of these small
herbs ar>e wanted, or that they are wanted as soon as possible,
or at any particular time,, it will, for the greater certainty of
procuring them, be still proper, where it can be obtained, to
raise them in a slight hotbed.

Make the bed with fresh horse-dung, about eighteen inches,
or two feet high ; set on the frame, and cover the bed with
earth, four or five inches thick.

Sow the seeds thick, either in shallow drills, or on the sur-
face, each sort separate (see January) ; and sift as much fine
earth over as will just cover it ; put on the lights, and when the
plants appear, give plenty of air.

About the middle or latter end of the month, if open and
mild weather, you may begin to sow a small salading on warm
borders, in the open ground ; and if the weather continues mild,
it will succeed tolerably well without any covering.

When these plants, both under cover and in the open ground,
begin to come up, they sometimes, by rising very thick, raise
the earth in a kind of cake upon their tops, which consequently
retards their growth ; they may be assisted by whisking the
surface lightly with your hand, &c, to separate the earth ; after
which the plants will rise regularly.

When those coming up in the open ground, the latter end of
this month, happen to be attacked with morning hoar-frosts,
and likely to be a sunny mild day, if before the sun rises full
upon them, you water them out of a watering-pot, with the
head on, to wash off the frosty rime, it will prevent their
changing black and going off.*

CARE OF CAULIFLOWER PLANTS.

Cauliflower plants in frames should have the free air every
mild day, by taking the glasses entirely off.

* Where there is the convenience of hothouses and frames, the most certain and
easy method to keep up a supply of small salading, at this season, is, to so'v the
seeds, m shallow boxes or pans for the purpose, to well decomposed vestal) e
mould ; and place them either into the frames or in the hothouses, in any plSce not
too much shaded, and unoccupied with other p.ants : observing; to sow once or
twice every week, or more or iess, according to the demand.

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

75

About the end of the month, if mild settled weather, you
may begin to transplant some of the strongest plants into the
place where they are to remain. Plant them in a quarter of
rich well-dunged ground, thirty inches or a yard distance each
ivay ; but if cold and unsettled weather, defer tfeis planting till
next month.

Cauliflowers under hand or bell glasses should also be
thinned out towards the end of the month, for planting, as
above, if mild fine weather, and the plants tolerably strong ;
that is, if there are more than one or two under each glass, let
all above that number be taken away. But if very cold unfa-
vourable weather, as above observed, defer this work till March,
observing, however, when performing it, to take up the weakest,
and let the strongest remain under the glasses, to come in for
the principal early crops ; and draw some earth up round their
stems, still continuing the glasses, and give air by tilting one
side. The plants which are taken up should be planted in
another spot of ground, the same distance as advised above for
the frame plants.

In transplanting cauliflowers, if necessary to make the most
advantage of the ground, may, on the same compartment, sow
a crop of spinach and radishes, a week or fortnight before the
cauliflowers are planted : and by the time the latter begin to
advance considerably, the other will all be gathered off for use,
without having retarded the growth of the cauliflowers.

SOWING CAULIFLOWER SEED.

Sow cauliflower seed, the beginning, middle, or any time
this month, to raise some plants to succeed the early crops ;
or, also, in case none were raised last autumn for early plants,
or that these have been killed by the severity of the winter ;
but in order to bring the plants up soon, and to forward them
in growth, it will be proper to sow in a slight hotbed.

Make the bed about twenty inches or two feet high in dung,
and put a frame on ; then lay four or five inches' thick of rich
earth over the bed.

Sow the seed on the surface, cover it with light earth, about
a quarter of an inch thick, and then put on the glass.

When the plants appear, let them have air every aav. rw
raising or opening the light at the upper end an inch or iwu ;
and in mild weather the lights may be taken entirely off in the
daytime ; for the plants must not be kept too close, for that
would draw them up weak. -

76

THE KITCHEN GARDEN".

But where there is not the convenience of a frame for tile
above bed, you may cover it on nights, and in bad weather
with mats.

Sprinkle them with water frequently, if moderate showers of
rain do not falfc

TRANSPLANTING CABBAGES.

Eaklv York and sugar-loaf cabbages, the Antwerp, Battersea,
and other cabbage plants, if tolerably strong in growth, should
now be transplanted where they are to remain.

If your plants are pretty strong, they may, if mild open
weather, be planted out the beginning or middle of the month •
but if they are weakly, or much cut by the frost, let them re-
main two or three weeks to recover, or till the beginning or
middle of March.

Choose for those plants a compartment of good ground; and
it would be of much advantage to dig in a supply of good dung :
then set the plants in rows, two feet to two and a half dis-
tance, in the smaller and larger kinds, to attain full growth for
the main crop ; or some early kinds to cut young in a thinning
order, may be planted only a foot and half asunder.

SOWING CABBAGES AND SAVOYS.

Sow some sugar-loaf, early Yorkshire, and other summer
cabbages, and large autumnal kinds about the middle or latter
end of the month, for summer and autumn use. These will
succeed the early plants, for they will be fit to cut in July,
August; and September, &c.

But if the winter has been severe, and destroyed many of
the plants which were sown last August to stand the winter foi
an early crop, it will, in that case, be proper to sow some of the
early seed as soon in this month as the weather will permit ;
and if a few are forwarded hy sowing them in a light hotbed, it
will be a great advantage.

Sow also some red cabbages for next winter's supply.

Savoy-seed may be sown, for the first crop, about the middla
or latter end of this month.

Those savoys whicli are now sown will be ready in Septem-
ber, and they will be finely cabbaged by October, and will con-
tinue in good perfection all November and December, &c

Cabbages and savoys for seed may be planted this month, if
not done Defore. Take up the plants in a dry day, clear off all
the large leaves, and plant them two feet asunder each way, by

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

77

the method explained last month, placing them so deep that no
part but the head may appear above ground.

EARTHING UP AND SOWING CELERY.

Earth up late celery in open dry weather, if the plants have
stood the winter in tolerably good condition, and are of some
advanced length above ground.

About the middle, or towards the latter end of the month,
prepare a small bed of light rich earth in a warm border, to sow
some upright celery seed in, for an early crop.

Break the earth very fine, and either sow the seed on the
rough surface, and rake it in lightly ; or first rake the surface
smooth, sow the seed thereon, and cover it with light earth
sifted over near a quarter of an inch deep ; or the ground being
formed into a three or four feet wide bed, and the surface raked,
then with the back of the rake trim the earth evenly off the
surface about half an inch deep into the alley; sow the seed
on the bed, and.with the rake draw the earth over it evenly,
and lightly trim the surface smooth. — But those who desire to
have the plants come in pretty forward, should sow the seed in
a slight hotbed, under a frame and lights, or hand-glasses ; or
in default of these, cover on nights and bad weather with mats;
being careful, in either method, when the plants are come up,
to admit the free air every mild day. The plants raised from
this sowing come in for use in June and July.

There should not be many of these early-sown plants planted
out, intended for a continuing supply, only a few to come in
before the general crop ; for they will soon pipe in the heart
and run up for seed.*— See March, April, May.

RADISHES.

Dig a warm border, the beginning of this month, to sow some
short-topped radish-seed, to succeed those sown last month.
Dig another piece at the same time, and sow it with salmon
radish-seed ; they will succeed the short-tops. About a fort-
night or three weeks after, let some more of both sorts be sown
in an open situation, in larger portions for the main crop, that

* At this early season we would recommend a small quantity to be sown, either
on a slight hot-bed, or in a shallow box, and plaeed into a frame or hot-honse now
at work ; and to be afterwards hardened, by degrees, till fit for pricking out on a
warm border, or rather on a slight hotbed, to remain until finally planted out. A
box about a foot square will raise a sufficient number of plants for this sowing, as
they are only intended for a few to come in early, before the general crops. They
•houid both be sown and pricked out on very rich mould. If properly mwasci'l.
they will come into use about the first of August.

78

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Fun.

tiiere may be a regular and plentiful supply of these roots in
iheir proper season.

Let them generally be sown broad-cast on the rough surface,
either in a continued space, or in four or five feet wide beds,
and rake them in with an even hand; or in sowing large crops
in one continued space, if quite dry light ground, it is eligible,
before raking in, to tread down the seed lightly, then rake it in
regularly.

You may sow among the great crops of radishes a sprink-
ling of spinach and lettuce-seed ; the spinach will come in
after the radish, and the lettuce after the spinach.

Continue to cover the early crops of radishes in frosty wea-
ther and cold nights with straw, &c, as directed last month.

If early radishes are required as soon as possible, let some
dwarf short-tops be sown in a moderate hotbed, the beginning
of this month, in the manner directed last month.

TURNIP-ROOTED RADISH.

Sow a few of the small white turnip radish to draw for salads
in April and May ; they eat crisp, and are agreeably flavoured.
— See March and April.

Or some may be sown in a slender hotbed, to have them
come earlier by a fortnight or more.

SPINACH.

Winter spinach will now advance in growth : clear out. all
weeds, and thin the plants for use as wanted. — See March.

Sow spinach about the beginning of this month, if mild wea-
ther : let some good ground be got ready for this seed, and sow
it thin and regular, either broad-cast and raked in, or in drills a
foot asunder.

Spinach may be sown between rows of cabbages, cauliflowers,
and beans, or the like, if ground be scarce.

The smooth-seeded, round-leaved kind, is the best to sow
now ; and if desired to have a constant supply, let the sowings
be repeated every fortnight or three weeks. — See March.

SOWING AND PLANTING LETTUCES.

About the beginning or middle of this month, if the weather
is mild, you may sow several sorts of lettuce-seeds on warm
borders. The white and green Cos kind, and the Cilicia and
cabbage lettuce, are proper sorts to sow now ; you may also
sow some of the imperial and brown Dutch lettuces, or any

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

79

other sorts ; let the seeds be sown moderately thick, and rake
them in regularly.

Or, in order to have a few lettuces forwarder for transplant-
ing, you may, early in the month, sow Cos or other lettuce-
seeds, in a frame, and cover them occasionally with glasses or
mats, on nights and sharp weather ; and when the plants are
advanced about two inches in growth, they are to be transplant-
ed in the full ground.

' But, in order to have a few come in pretty forward for trans-
planting, there may be a little green and white Cos sown on a
gentle hot-bed, which will be ready to transplant a fortnight
sooner than those in the full ground.

Lettuces which have stood the winter, closely planted, in
warm borders, or in frames, should, about the end of the month,
if quite mild weather, be thinned out where they stand too
close : let them be thinned regularly, leaving them a foot dis-
tance each way, for they will require so much room to grow to
their full size ; the plants which are drawn out should be plant-
ed in an open spot of rich ground a foot asunder ; and give a
little water as soon as planted.*

CARROTS AND PARSNEPS.

Prepare some ground, about the middle or latter end of this
month, in which to sow carrots and parsneps.

These roots grow largest in light ground, and the farther
from trees the better : for they thrive best in open exposure.
Let the ground be trenched, one full spade deep at least; but
if double digged, two moderate spades, it will be of particular
advantage, in promoting long handsome, roots, both of the car-
rots and parsneps; let the clods be well broken, and lay the
surface even.

They must be sown separately, each sort in distinct compart-
ments ; either dividing the ground in four or five feet wide
beds, or remain in one continued plat : sow the seeds on the

* Forcing Dandelions. — This well-known plant, when forced and blanched, is
much esteemed by some families as a salad, and may be easily obtained, at any sea-
son, by collecting a quantity of their roots, and placing them upon a slight hotbed,
prepared in the same way as directed for asparagus ; and in order to blanch them,
they should be covered over with dry sawdust, as they shoot up. "When they are
fit for use, which they will be in a short time, they should be cut with a small piece
of the root, to keep the leaves together. A one-light frame will produce a good
quantity.

Forcing Sea-Kale. — Abundant supplies of this much-esteemed vegetable may
also be had, from November to April, by any of the means described for rhubarb.
We, however, consider that it is brought to the greatest perfection, and with much
less labour, when forced, than where it iB grown in the natural ground.— For par-
ticular directions.

so

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Feb,

rough surface, not too thick, and rake them in regularly; or if
a light dry soil, may first tread them in evenly with the feet,
pretty close together, then rake them fully into' the ground.—
See next month.*

Plant carrots, parsneps, and beets for seed ; let them be
planted in rows two feet asunder.

BEET.

This is now the time to begin to sow the different sorts of
beet; the red beet for its large root, and the green and white
sorts for their leaves in soups, stewing, &c.

Let the different sorts be sown in separate beds, &c, either
sown broad-cast, or on the general rough surface, and raked in
regularly; or, as beet seed is pretty large, it is an eligible
method either to sow it in drills, in order that it may be more
regularly covered in the earth all an equal depth, or to dot or
dibble it in with a blunt-ended dibble in rows; let drills be
drawn with a hoe, about an inch deep, and ten or twelve inches
asunder ; sow the seed therein thinly, and earth it over an inch
thick ; and if you sow it by dotting in, have a blunt dibble, and
in lines a foot asunder, dot holes an inch deep, and six or eight
inches' distance in the row, dropping two or three seeds in each
as you go on, and cover them in : and when the plants come
up, leave only one of the strongest in each place.

Likewise may now sow the mangel wurzel or German beet,
for its large green leaves to boil as spinach, and thick fleshy
leaf stalks to dress like asparagus ; but the root, though very
large, is of little worth for any domestic occasions.

ONIONS AND LEEKS.

About the middle or latter end of this month, you may get
tome ground ready for sowing onions and leeks.

Choose a compartment for each where the ground is good,
and not too wet; and if you dig some good rotten dung in, it
will be of great advantage to the plants. Either divide the
ground into four or five feet wide beds, or sow the seed in one
continued compartment, each sort separate ; sow them in a dry
day, on the rough surface, moderately thick, as regular as pos'-
sible, and directly rake it in evenly in a regular manner; or it
sown in continued large compartments without dividing into

* They must he sown in drills ; the carrots at twelve or fourteen inches, and the
(wsneus at eighteen or twenty inches apart. The drills should not he more than
one inch deep at this season. The early Horn, and AJtringham, are the fittest for

!_!u> fin win ir a

Feb.] the kitchen garden. 81

beds, if the ground is light and dry, may first tread in the seed
lightly, to settle the ground equally, that it may not sink in
holes with the feet in raking ; then rake it in regularly, as
above.

Or there may be a thin sprinkling of leek-seed sown with the
onions, the onions being generally at their full growth, and
drawn off in the middle of August ; the leeks will then have
full scope, and grow to a large size.

But when intended to sow leeks for a continuing full crop, or
to be afterwards transplanted, they should be sown separate,
and moderately thick, in beds about four feet broad.

The leeks are generally fit to transplant in June and July. —
Observe the directions there given.* i

PLANTING BEANS.

Dig an open quarter of ground the beginning of this month,
for a full crop of beans. Windsor, Toker, Sandwich, and other
large beans, are proper to plant at this season for the main
" crop. Plant these large beans in rows a yard asunder, and four
or five inches distant in the row, and not more than two or.
three inches deep.

You may also plant any of the smaller kinds of beans, they
are mostly great bearers; such as the long-pods, Mumford's,
white-blossom, broad Spanish, &c. (see the catalogue), planting
them in rows two feet and a half, or a yard asunder, and two or
three inches deep.

Beans may either generally be planted by dibble, or occa-
sionally in drills, the above depth.

# Take advantage of a dry day, when the ground is sufficiently dry, to point over
the ground which has been manured and rough dug in the autumn for this purpose,
which will he now well pulverised by the action of the frost and rains ; point it over,
and let it be well broken with the spade. If no ground has been prepared in the
above manner, make choice of a rich piece which has been well manured for the
preceding crop. That which has been occupied with celery or cauliflower will
answer the purpose well ; dig it over, and break it fine.

Any of the following sorts may be soivn at this time : — the Strasburg, Spanish,
Portugal, James Keeping, blood-red, silver-skinned, &c. ; the Strasburg is, how-
ever, more generally approved of, as producing the most abundant crops, and as a
good keeper. They should be sown in four feet beds, and covered to the thickness
of a quarter of an inch, or in shallow drills about ten inches apart. The drill system
is that which we prefer, both for neatness and lor being much more expeditiously
cleaned, as by this method the Dutch hoe can be used to destroy the weeds ; and
stirring the surface occasionally will greatly promote their growth, particularly
when the bulbs are swelling.

A little lettuce and radish may be sown along-with them ; but this should be done
but sparingly. Rake all smooth ; but unless the ground is quite dry, we would not
recommend treading in the seeds.

A few of the silver-skinned and two-bladed should be sown on n bed of poor soil
or tinder the shade of trees, for pickling.

o 2

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

LFeb.

SOWING PEAS.

Sow a principal crop of peas the beginning of this month, in
an open piece of ground : may still continue sowing a succes-
sion of the hotspurs, and other small kinds ; and it is now a
fine season to sow full crops of the large sort of peas, such as
marrowfats, Rouncivals, &c.

For sowing marrowfats, and other large peas, draw drills
three feet and a half asunder: but if you intend to set sticks for
these large kinds of peas to climb upon for support, draw the
drills four feet distant.

Hotspur, and other smaller kinds of peas, should be sown in
drills, two feet to a yard asunder ; and if you intend to place
sticks for them to run upon, allow three feet and a half between
the rows.

The drills for sowing peas should be drawn with a hoe,
about an inch and a half to two inches deep.

EARTHING UP BEANS AND PEAS.

Beans and peas which are up, and advanced from two or
three to five or six inches high, should have earth drawn up to
their stems, which will strengthen them and protect them from
frost. Let this be done in a mild dry day.

SCORZONERA, SALSAFY, AND HAMBURG PARSLEY.

The latter end of this month you may sow scorzonera, sal-
safy, and Hamburgh parsley.

These plants are in some families much esteemed for their
roots, which are the only parts that are eaten, except the sal-
«afy, as explained below.

The roots run pretty deep in' the ground, in the manner of
carrots and parsneps, and are boiled and eaten either alone or
with flesh-meat, like young carrots, &c.

These are fit for use from July till March.

But the salsafy is estimable both for its roots, as above, and
for the young shoots rising in the spring from the year-old
plants, being gathered while green and tender, are good to boil
and eat in the manner of asparagus.

Dig one or more beds for each of the above, in an open
situation. Sow the seed either in shallow drills, six inches
distance, and earthed over half an inch, or sown on the rough
surface, and rake them in equally ; they are all to remain where

FEB.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN".

E3

sown, and the plants thinned in May or June, to six inches
distance.

BORAGE, BURNET, LOVAGE, ANGELICA, &0.

You may sow borage, burnet, clary, and marigolds, orach,
carduus, dill, fennel, bugloss, sorrel, chervil, and such like herbs
about the middle, or any time qf this month, when the weather
is open.

Angelica and lovage may also be sown at the same time ;
they delight in moist situations, but will also grow in any com-
mon soil.

Sow all the above seeds moderately thin, and each sort
separately, in a border or beds of light earth, and rake them in
evenly; or may be sown in drills, six to twelve inches asunder;
some to remain where sown, others planted out in summer. —
See June.

THYME, MARJORAM, SAVORY, AND HYSSOP.

Thyme, marjoram, hyssop, and savory, may be sown about
the latter end of this month. Let a warm spot of light rich
ground, where it is not wet, be prepared for these seeds ; dig
it neatly, break the earth fine, and make the surface smooth :
sow the seeds thereon, each sort separate, and rake them in
light and evenly.

They may remain, somewhere sown, and the rest planted out
in June, &c.

Or some may be sown in drills, to remain as an edging to a
border, &c.

CORIANDER AND CHERVIL.

Coriander and chervil, for soups and salads, &c, may be
sown any time this month, when mild dry weather ; sowing each
sort separate, generally in shallow drills, six to nine inches
asunder, and covered in evenly with the earth, about half an
inch deep, especially the coriander seed.

These plants are always to remain where sown ; and as they
soon fly up to seed in summer, some should be sown every
month, &c*

GARLICK, ROCAMBOLE, AND SHALLOTS.

Prepare some beds of good ground, four feet wide, in which
to plant garlick, rocambole, and shallots; of which procure
* The abovp small seeds are seldom sown in Scotland before the end of March-

84 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. l?Mi

some best bulbs ; divide the garlick and rocambole into cloves,
and the shallots into off-sets ; plant them in rows, lengthways
the beds, eight or nine inches asunder, by six inches' distance
in each row, and two or three inches deep.

SOWING PARSLEY.

This is a proper time to sow full crops of parsley, either in
drills along the edges of some of the quarters, or borders ; or in
continued rows, nine inches asunder, as directed the last and
succeeding months.

POTATOES.

Potatoes may be planted, a few for an early crop, about the
middle or latter end of this month, if open weather.*

Those plants are propagated by planting cuttings of the
potatoe: procure some best, middling large potatoes, and
divide and cut each into two, three, or more pieces, minding
that every piece be furnished with one or two buds, or eyes :
then plant in rows two feet asunder, and a foot distant from
each other in the row ; and three or four inches deep.

The method of planting them is most generally with a large
bhint- ended dibble, making a hole for each set the above depth;
or sometimes by planting in drills ; also by making a small
aperture with a spade, for each set, and sometimes, in field cul-
ture, are planted in the furrows, as they plough the ground,

or in drill furrows after the ground is ploughed See Potatoes,

in March.

Or, for early potatoes, some early dwarf kinds may be planted
in a hot-bed the beginning of this month.f

» We would here observe, that it is only in the si. utliern counties of England that
potatoes should now be planted, at least to any extent. In Scotland, we seldom
plant till the middle of March, except od wall borders ; and even then, we plant
them often more with a view of lurwarding the labour, than that we expect an
earlier crop ; as we generally find that those planted about the end of March, or
beginning of April, are equally early, and with less chance of being cut down with
late frosts.

t These are most successfully forced upon beds of hot dung. Choose ttie early
ash-leaved early kidney, orany of the mostapproved sorts, and, while the dung is
undergoing the necessary fermentation for their reception, cut, partially dry, and
plant them in boxes or pots among some light dry mould. Place these in any of
the hot-houses or in a cucumber-frame ; where they will have sprung two or
three inches while the bed is preparing. ■ .-

When the bed is ready, cover it tour inches thick with mould, either rich or
otherwise, but, at all events, light and dry, and if sandy, so much the better. In
this place the plants in rows about ten inches asunder, and four or five inches
apart m the row. Cover them up nearly to the leaves with the same kind of mould,
(flving the whole a gentle watering, if necessary, mid shutting down the lights.

From this time forward, they will require all the air that can be admitted to
tr.em uvth safety during the day. Careiully cover them every night with mate
BUS keen the temperature at about the same degree as for asparagui-beiis

p£B ] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 85

HORSE-RADISH.

This plant is propagated by cuttings of the root, either cut
from the top an inch or two long, or some old roots cut into
pieces of that length.

The method is this : first procure a quantity of proper sets,
which may be either the small off-sets that arise from the bot-
tom or sides of the main roots, and of which take cuttings off
their tops two or three inches long ; or may use also the tops
and crowns of the old roots when taken up for use, in cuttings
of the above length : or, in default of a sufficiency of crowns or
tops of either, you may divide a quantity of old knotty roots
into cuttings, in length as aforesaid ; which, if furnished each
with two or three buds or eyes, they will make tolerable sets :
but give preference to the cuttings of the crowns or tops, if
enough can be procured ; observing, that when intended to
make a fresh plantation, you should, during winter, &c, when
you take the plants up for use, reserve all the best off-sets for
planting ; also the crowns of the main roots : but this latter is
only practicable in private gardens ; for where the large roots
are designed for sale, their tops must not be taken off, which
will render them unsaleable in market ; therefore the market
gardeners always reserve the strongest off-sets, arising either
from the bottom, or emitted from the side of the main root.

Being thus furnished with a proper quantity of sets, then
proceed to prepare the ground for their reception : and they
may either be planted with a dibble after the ground is dug, or
trenched in as you proceed in digging the ground, especially if
a light mellow soil.

Choose, however, an open situation, and as light and deep a
soil as the garden affords ; which trench regularly, one good
spade deep at least.

Then proceed by dibble-planting in the following manner : —
Being provided with a long dibble, then beginning at one end
of the piece of ground, range a lino crossways, and with the
dibble make holes about twelve or fifteen inches deep, and be
careful to make them all of an equal depth, which you may
readily do, by making a mark upon the dibble, according to the
above, so thrusting it always down to that mark, making the
holes six inches asunder, dropping, as you go on, one set or
cutting in each hole, with the crown, &c, upright, taking care
to fill or close the holes up properly with the earth, and let the
, rows be two f«<jt asuruM

so

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Feb.

The other method of planting by trenching in the sets, is,
by opening a trench at one end, in the common method of
trenching, two spades wide, and one good spade deep, and then
having the sets or cuttings, plant one row along the middle ot
the bottom of the trench, not planted deep, as in the above
method, only just inserted to their tops with the crowns upright,
about six inches asunder ; then dig the next trench the same
width and depth, turning the earth into the first trench, over the
rows of sets; thus proceed, trench and trench, to the end
breaking all lumpy clods.

By practising either of the above methods of planting horse-
radish, the sets will shoot up perfectly straight root-shoots quite
to the top, whereby they will be long and smooth, and swell
evenly their whole length ; and will sometimes attain tolerable
perfection in one summer's growth.

When the whole is planted, the ground may then be sown
with spinach, which will come up time enough to gather off in
April and May, to give the radish full room to grow ; for this,
having a great depth of earth to shoot through, will not come
up till the beginning or middle of May, when the spinach will
be mostly all gathered.

They must be kept clean from weeds for about a month or
six weeks ; after this the leaves will cover the ground, and pre-
.vent the growth of weeds.

In the autumn after planting, that is, about Michaelmas, you
may begin to take up some of the roots for use ; but if they are
rather of small size, it will be advisable to let the principal part
stand to have another summer's growth, when they will be very
fine and large.

When you take up these roots, it should be done regularly,
not digging up a root here and there, as we often see practised
jn private gardens, but beginning at the first row, and proceed-
ing from row to row, according as you want them ; observing to
throw out a trench close along to the first row of roots, and as
deep as the root goes, but not to loosen the bottom thereof,
which is called the stool. Having thus cleared the earth away
quite to the stool or bottom of the roots, then with the spade,
or a knife, cut each root off level, close to where it proceeds
from.

All the stools, or bottoms of the roots, must be left in the
ground undisturbed, for these yield a large successional supply
of new shoot-roots, as above, the succeeding year ; and when
Shis production is dug up the old stools still remaining produce

Feb.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

87

another supply the year after ; and thus, being permitted to
stand, they continue, as often as the produce is gathered, to
furnish a fresh supply the succeeding season, many years.

But care must be taken, when digging up the roots, always
to clear the old stool from all straggling or small roots what-
ever ; and, in the summer season, to draw up all small plants
rising between the rows.

SOWING TURNIPS.

Sow some early Dutch turnip-seed about the middle or latter
end of the month, in a warm-lying open spot of light ground ;
but as these early-sown plants will soon run up to seed before
the roots attain any tolerable size, should sow only a small
quantity at this time, to come in early in May. — See March
and April.

PLANTING LIQUORICE.

Now prepare some deep ground to plant liquorice where re-
quired ; the ground should have two or three spades' depth of
good soil, and also digged that depth, that the root, the only
useful part, may run considerably deep in the earth.

Procure sets of the small horizontal roots, which run near
the surface of the ground ; cut them into lengths of six inches,
and plant them by dibble, in rows a yard asunder, by half that
distance in the row, placing them wholly within the earth ; as
soon as planted, may sow a thin crop of onions on the same
ground the first year. Keep them clean from weeds all sum-
mer ; and when the onions come off, hoe the ground well ; and
in winter slightly dig the ground between the rows.

They must be permitted to have three years' growth, cutting
down the decayed stems every autumn or winter, in October or
November; and in the third or fourth year, the main roots will
be of full length and size; then dig them up in, winter, begin-
ning at one end of the ground, and opening a trench two or
three feet deep, or quite to the bottom of the first row of roots :
so continue trenching the ground, row and row, the above
depth, taking out all the roots as you go on, digging them o'lean
up to the bottom.

88

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Fee,

FRUIT GARDEN.

PRUNING.

Pruning of peaches, nectarines, and apricots, should be for-
warded as much as possible this month, before the blossom
buds are far advanced. When the buds of these trees are
much swelled before they are pruned and nailed, many of them
will be unavoidably rubbed off in performing that work.

Examine these trees well, and cut away all such parts as are
useless, both in old and young wood, and leave a proper supply
of the last summer's young wood, for the next summer's bear-
ing ; that is, in respect to useless old wood, all such branches
as have advanced a considerable length, and produced no young
shoots proper for bearing this year, nor support branches that
do, are useless, and should now be cut out, to make room for
better j observing that a general successional supply of young
bearing wood, of the best well-placed shoots of last summer,
must now be retained in all parts of the tree at moderate dis-
tances, to bear the fruit to be expected the ensuing season ; at
the same time cut away all the ill-placed and superfluous shoots,
and very luxuriant growths, together with part of the former
year's bearers, &c, to make room for the successional bearing
shoots, as in January ; and as you go on, let the supply of re-
served shoots be shortened, each according to its strength.
Shoots of a vigorous growth should be shortened but little ; that
is, you may cut off about one-fourth of its original length ; those
of a moderate growth should be shortened more in proportion,
by cutting off about one-third; for instance, a shoot of eighteen
inches may be shortened to twelve, or thereabouts ; and observe
ihe same proportion, according to the different lengths of the
shoots.

But for the more particular method of pruning these trees,
Bee the work of the Fruit Garden in January.

Nail the shoots or branches straight and close to the wall, at
the distance of about three to four or five inches from each
other.

And for the method of pruning and ordering young trees of
these sorts (that is, such as one, two, and three years old from
the budding), see the work of the Fruit Garden, both in Janu-
ary and March.

Feb.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

89

PRUNING APPLES AND PEARS, IN ESPALIERS AND WALL-TREES.

Prune apples, pears, plums, and cherries, against walls, and
in espaliers ; and, if possible, let the whole of them be finished
this month.

In pruning these trees, observe, as directed last month, that
as the same branches or bearers remain many years in a proper
fruitful state, continue them trained close and straight to the
wall, or espalier, not shortening their ends, but still continue
training each at full length as far as the limited space admits,
and laying them in about four, five, or six inches asunder*

In the next place, observe, that if the branches be anywhere
much crowded (that is, if the bearing or principal branches are
closer than four, five, or six inches* from one another), some
should be pruned out : observing, in this case, to take off such
as are worst situated, and particularly such as appear to be the
most unlikely to bear, by being either worn-out, or, at least, not
well furnished with fruit-spurs or studs, as mentioned last
month. Likewise observe, that when necessary to make room
in any particular part of the tree, to train more regularly any
eligible branches which are evidently well adapted for bearing,
room must be made for them, by cutting out such barren
branches as above described ; and in any trees where the gene-
ral branches are trained considerably too close, and crowding
in a confused irregularity, let some of the apparently most un-
serviceable and irregular-growing be cut out in a thinning order
in different parts of such trees, to make requisite room for
training the other more useful and eligible branches in a proper
expansion at regular distances.

When any old or large branches are to be taken out, let
them be cut off close to thejilace from whence they arose ; or
to any eligible lateral branch which they support, and which
you shall think convenient to leave : for in setting off either old
or young branches, never leave any tops.

After taking out any large branches, let such of those which
remain near that part be unnailed, &c, in order to be brought
higher or lower, as you shall see necessary, to train them all at
equal distances : or when there are several large branches to be
taken out in different parts, the whole tree should be unnailed ;
then you can. more readily train the general branches and
bearers in exact order.

Next, let it be observed, that where a supply of wood is

* Or from eight to twelve inches.

$>o

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Feb.

wanting, leave some of the best situated of the last summer's
shoots, such as directed to be retained in the summer pruning,
to fill up the vacancies ; and generally leave the leading one at
the end of each branch, where room to train them. But all
others of the last year's shoots, not wanted for the above pur-
pose, should every one be cut off close to the place from whence
they proceed, leaving no spurs but what are naturally produced.
The proper fruit-spurs are such as were described last month,
being produced on the sides and ends of the branches, short,
robust, from about half an inch to an inch or two in length.

Let these fruit-spurs be well attended to in pruning, carefully
preserving all those of a fresh, plump, robust growth ; but those
of a worn-out or rugged, unsightly appearance, or that project
considerably long and irregular from the front of the branches
in a fore-right direction, should generally be displaced, in order
to preserve the regularity of the trees, cutting them off close :
and new ones will be encouraged in places contiguous.

Having, in the course of pruning these trees, left most of the
general shoots and branches at their natural length, as before
advised, in all places where there is full scope to extend them,
let them be all trained in regularly in that order, and nailed
straight and close to the wall, or nailed or tied to the espalier,
about four, five, or six inches' distance.

For the management of young trees of these sorts, see the
work of the Fruit Garden in January and March.

PRUNING STANDARD FRUIT-TREES.

Standaed fruit-trees, in the garden" and orchard, may be
pruned any time this month where necessary : observing only
to cut from these trees all dead wood, decayed branches, and
casual worn-out bearers as do not promise to bear well, and that
crowd the others, and all such as assume a rambling, cross-
placed, very irregular growth. Where the branches in general
are crowded, let some be cut away in a thinning order, in a
regular manner, so that the principal branches may stand clear
of each other.

If any old trees are greatly infested with moss, which some-
times overruns the branches, let it now be cleared off ; for it
much impoverishes the trees and fruit.*

* A very effectual method of both destroying moss, and of preventing; Its jrrowth,
ie, to syringe the trees with lime-water, which is also a means of destroying" arjl o
preventing insects.

Feb.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

91

PRUNING VINES.

Vines may be pruned now ; but the sooner that work is done,
the better. In pruning vines, observe to cut out part of the
former bearers and long extended old naked branches, to make
room for the bearing wood.

The last year's shoots are properly the bearing wood ; that
is, they produce shoots the ensuing summer ; and these shoots,
and no others, bear fruit the same season : for the shoots pro-
duced in summer immediately from the older wood never bear
the same year : care must therefore be taken, in this pruning,
to leave a proper supply of the strongest of the last year's shoots
in every part of the tree ; and take care always to have a suc-
cession of young wood coming up regularly, from and towards
the bottom and middle, in a progressive order upwards.

Leave the branches or shoots in general at equal distances,
at least eight or nine inches from each other.

Every shoot must be shortened according to its strength,
from three or four to five or six joints long ; and in shortening,
generally cut sloping behind, and about half an inch above an
eye or bud.

Let all the branches and shoots be trained straight and close
to the wall, &c, at equal distances from each other; none
closer than the distances above-mentioned.

But for the particular method of the winter-ordering these
trees, see the work of November, January, &c.

Plant cuttings of vines, to raise a supply of new plants where
required. — See next month.

FIG-TREES.

Fig-trees may be pruned about the middle or latter end of
this month ; and may likewise be planted. For particular re-
marks and directions, see March.

PRUNING AND PLANTING GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT TREES.

Gooseberries and currants should be pruned now, if omitted
in the former month, both in the standard bushes and those
against walls, &c.

In pruning the common standard bushes, observe to cut away
all cross-growing branches, and regulate such as advance in a
straggling manner from the rest. Or where the branches in
general stand so close as to interfere, let them be thinned pro-
perly, so that every branch may stand clear of the other, at

92

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

some regular moderate distance: and prune out the superabun.
dant lateral and other unnecessary shoots of last summer. — See
the Fruit Garden of last month and October.

Let these shrubs, in standards, be always trained with a
single stem, clear of branches, six or eight inches to a fool
from the ground, as directed in the former month.

Likewise to currants, &c, against walls, give a necessary
pruning and regulation, as directed in January, &c.

Gooseberry and currant trees may be planted any time this
month, both in standard bushes for the general plantation, at
six to seven or eight feet distance, and some against walls, &c,
for earlier, later, and superior fruit, but principally of currants ;
or occasionally a few best sorts of gooseberries, where there is
any walling to spare : let the currants be principally the best
red and white sorts ; and the gooseberies, for walls, allot some
of the larger early green and smooth red, or also some white
crystal and amber ; the whole trained and managed as intimated
in January, &c.

For the method of propagating and raising these shrubs by
cuttings and suckers, see the work of the Nursery in this month,
or March, or that of October, November, December, &c.

RASPBERRIES.

Raspberries, where they remain unpruned, should be com-
pleted this month. In pruning raspberries, observe to clear
away all the old decayed stems which bore the fruit last year,
and to leave three, four, or five of the strongest of last year's
shoots standing on each root, to bear next summer : all above
that number, on every root, must be cut away close to the sur-
face of the ground, and all straggling shoots between the main
plants must also be taken away.

Each of the shoots which are left should be shortened, ob-
serving to cut off about one third or fourth of their original
length.

The shoots of each root, when pruned, if considerably long
and straggling, may be plaited or tied moderately two or three
together ; for by that method they support one another, so as
not to be borne down in summer by the weight of heavy rains
or violent winds.

When you have finished pruning, dig the ground between
ihe plants : observing, as you dig, to clear away all straggling
i'rowths in the intervals, and leaving none but such as belong

Feb.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

9:}

to tlie shoots which are left to bear.— See the Fruit Garden of
last month, &c.

New plantations of raspberries may be made this month,
where wanted ; let them be planted in rows four feet asur-der,
and let the plants be three feet distance from each other in the
rows. — See last month, &c.

STRAWBERRIES.

The plantations of strawberries should now be cleared, and
have their spring dressing. First pull or cut off any remaining
strings or runners from the plants, and clear the beds from
weeds and litter of every sort ; then either hoe, dig, or loosen
the ground between the plants of those in beds ; or may, at the
same time, dig the alleys, from which spread some earth between
the rows, and close round every plant : this will strengthen
them, and make the plants flower strong, and produce large fruit.

Strawberries may be planted about the middle or latter end
of the month, if the plants are a little advanced in growth ; but
the best time is about the middle or latter end of August, if
showery or moist weather, or the beginning, or any time in
September; they will then bear fruit the summer after; not
but those planted now will take root freely, but will not bear
any fruit to signify till the next year ; observing the proper
sets for planting are the young off-sets and runner plants of the
last summer, which procure, of the strongest stocky growth,
from beds of good plants that are in full perfection for bearing,
and not from worn-out, very old stools, taking them up with
good roots.— See Strawberries in June.

Prepare for these plants a piece of good ground, either in the
main quarters, or in borders ; if loamy, the better : and let some
good rotten dung be dug in.

If in the main quarters, divide the ground into beds four feet
wide, with alleys at least eighteen inches wide between them ;
or may be planted in continued rows in borders. Plant the
strawberries of the scarlet kinds in rows, one foot three inches
asunder, and allow the same distance between plant and plant
in the rows.

But the largest kind of strawberries, such as the hautboy,
Chili, &c, should be planted eighteen inches distant every way.

The Alpine, or prolific strawberry, should likewise be planted
fifteen or eighteen inches distant every way, that there may be
room for their runners to spread and take root, this kind of
strawberry being different in its manner of bearing from the

8.4

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Feb

others ■ for the runners which they send forth in summer take
root at every joint, and each rooting joint produces blossoms
and ripe fruit the same season ; and these runners often yield
the largest and fairest fruit, which are generally in their utmost
perfection ip August and September.

But this strawberry commonly begins to bear in June, with
the other sorts, and continues bearing from that time till
November, and sometimes till Christmas, provided the weather
continues open and mild till that time.

Strawberry plants for forcing may now be placed in hotbeds,
&c, the beginning, middle, or any time in this month, with good
• success ; having two years old bearing plants in pots, as directed
last month, place them in the hotbed, and managed as explained
in the same work in January.

Be careful that the strawberries in hotbeds have the glasses
opened a little behind, every mild day, when the weather is
anything favourable, to admit air to them ; and let the plants
have moderate waterings.

If the heat of the hotbed falls off much,, you should ren ew it,
by applying a lining of hot dung to one or both sides of the bed,
as you see it necessary. Cover the glasses every night with
mats, or other covering.

Now is also a very successful time to place pots of strawrberry
plants in the hothouse, or in any forcing-houses, &c, and they
will bear early in good perfection. — See the Hothouse, end of
this month, and Forcing early Fruit, page 96.

PLANTING FRUIT TREES.

Fkuit trees of all sorts may be planted any time this month,
r/hen the weather is open.

Let every kind be planted at proper distances, both for walls,
espaliers, and in standards, that they may have room to grow
without interfering with each other in the space of a few years ;
which is often the case in many gardens, more particularly wall
trees.

Peaches, nectarines, and apricots should never be planted
rearer than fifteen feet asunder against walls ; nor need they
be planted more than eighteen or twenty feet distance.

Apples and pears for walls and espaliers should be planted
fifteen to eighteen or twenty feet asunder ; but in some cases,
twenty-five feet is a more eligible distance, especially for some
sorts of free-shooting pears ; though it appears considerable at
first, yet if grafted, &c, upon free stocks, they will readily fill

Feb.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN".

95

fchat space, and bear considerably better than if confined, so as
to require to be often shortened to continue them within
bounds ; however, generally allow those on dwarf stocks not
less than fifteen feet, the others eighteen or twenty feet
distance.

Plums and cherries, designed for walls and espaliers, should
be planted from fifteen to eighteen or twenty feet distance.

The above distances, advised in planting the different sorts
f wall and espalier trees, appear a great way, when the trees
are first planted: but in seven years' time, the advantage in
allowing them proper room will appear ; and it should be ob-
served to allow trees planted against low walls a greater dis-
tance than for higher walls, in order that, in default of height,
there may be proper scope to extend them horizontally.

For the particular soil and situation proper for the different
kinds, see the Fruit Garden in November.

Standard fruit trees should generally be allowed thirty or
forty feet distance ; and let none be planted closer than from
twenty to thirty feet distance in a garden, especially full stan-
dards ; and if an orchard is to be planted, let the larger growing
kinds of full standard apples and pears, &c, be thirty or forty
feet distant every way.

The rule which we advise is, to plant full standard apples
and pears not less than twenty-five to thirty feet distance : or
dwarf and other small or moderate growing standards ; of these
kinds, allow eighteen or twenty feet ; and standard cherries and
plums, twenty to twenty-five feet apart; and almonds, quinces,
and medlars, twsnty feet; observing these are the least dis-
tances ; but where there is good scope of ground to allow five
or ten feet more room, it will, in the end, prove a greater advan-
tage when the trees arrive at full growth.

Walnuts and chestnuts should be planted thirty or forty feet
apart, or more.

Filberts to be set fifteen or twenty feet asunder.

Mulberry trees, twenty to thirty feet distance.

In planting fruit trees of any kind, let care be taken that they
are not planted too deep ; for that is more material than many
planters may imagine. Open for each tree a circular hole, wide
enough to receive the roots freely, without pressing against the
sides, and about a spade deep. Then, having the trees ready,
being digged up with a good spread of roots, let the ends of the
straggling roots be pruned, and cut off such roots as are broken
or brniW! then set the tree in the hole, and see that all the

^0 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Feb

roots spread freely as they should do ; and in depth, so as the
uppermost roots be only from about three or four to five or six
inches below the general surface.

Break the earth well, and throw it in equally about the roots,
and shake the tree gently, that the earth may fall in close be-
tween the roots and fibres ; when the earth is all in, tread the
surface moderately, to fix the tree properly.

SUPPORTING NEW-PLANTED TREES.

Support tall new-planted standard fruit-trees with stakes, as
soon as they are planted,' especially those that are in exposed
situations, to secure them firmly in their places, and that they
may not be rocked about by the wind, which would greatly re-
tard their taking root.

Dwarf fruit trees, with large branchy heads, should also be ,
secured from the power of the wind ; and those against walls
should also be fastened thereto : and, if espaliers, fasten them
to the rails.

DRESSING FRUIT-TREE BORDERS.

Let all , the fruit-tree borders be neatly digged, when you
have finished pruning and nailing. If they have been digged
before, let the surface be loosened where it has been trampled
in doing the necessary work about the trees. This will be of
service to the trees, and the borders will appear clean and neat,
and they will be ready to sow or plant with what you think
necessary.

GRAFTING.

Grafting may be begun about the latter end of the month,
if mild weather. Plums, pears, and cherries may then be
grafted ; and you may also graft apples. For the method or
grafting, see the work of the Nursery.

FORCING EARLY FRUIT IN FORCING-HOUSES.

The beginning of this month, if not done before, may begin
to force fruit trees in hot walls, peach-houses, cherry-houses,
&c, by aid of fire or other artificial heat ; the proper sorts are
peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, figs, vines, plums, &c,
having young trees for this purpose, that are arrived to a bear-
ing state, and planted a year or two before in the borders, &c,
of the forcing departments ; or may have some also in pots to
remove therein at forcing time occasionally. The trees may be

Feb.] the fruit garden. PT

planted both as wall-trees and espaliers, training the branches to
a trellis erected for that purpose ; and some may be in dwarf
standards : also some cherries, both in small-headed standards,
and half standards, and dwarfs ; and vines trained up under the
sloping glasses. See Hothouse, December.

Let moderate fires be made every evening ; or if there is a
pit within the forcing-house, in which to have a bark or dung
hotbed, may make the bed a week or fortnight before you begin
the fires ; and if a bark-bed is intended, fill the bark-pit with
new tanner's bark ; or if a dung hotbed, make it with fresh hot
horse dung ; and when it has settled down ten or twelve inches,
lay that depth of tanner's bark at top. These beds will support
a constant moderate warmth, and serve in which to place pots
of dwarf cherries and pots of scarlet and Alpine strawberries,
which will have fruit very early, and in great perfection and
plenty. Continue making fires every evening soon after sunset,
and support them till nine or ten o'clock, to warm the air of the
house till morning, when the fire may be renewed moderately,
but not always constantly the whole day : if there is the assis-
tance also of a bark hotbed, unless it is required to forward the
trees as much as possible, and in frosty, and very sharp, cloudy,
foggy, damp weather. However, where there is no - internal
hotbed, must continue a constant, regular, moderate fire-heat.

With this management, the trees will soon begin to advance
in blossom-buds, &c, when must be careful to continue a regu-
lar moderate heat, as above, and to admit air, and give occa-
sional watering.

Admit fresh air to the trees every moderate day when sunny,
especially after they begin to bud and shoot, either by sliding
down some of the upper sloping glasses two or three inches, or
drawing some of the uprights in front a little way open, shutting
all close towards the afternoon, or as the weather changes cold;
giving air more fully as the warm season increases, and as the
trees advance in blossom and shooting.

Give also occasional waterings both to the borders and over
the branches of the trees before they blossom ; but when in
flower, and until the fruit is all fairly well set, desist from water-
ing over the branches, lest it destroy the fecundating male pollen
of the anthera destined for the impregnation of the fruit.

The fires may be continued till May, being careful never to
make them stronger than to raise the internal heat to about 60"
in the thermometer, in peach and cherry houses, and 70° in
vine houses ; for in vineries, having only principally vines in

98

THE PLEASURE

forcing, the heat is generally continued stronger, as they bear it
in a higher degree, whereby to forward the fruit in earliest
perfection.

According as the fruit advances to full growth, continue as-
sisting it by proper waterings ; and give it free air every warm
sunny day ; and when advancing towards ripening, encourage a
strong heat by the sun in the middle of the day, by admitting
less or more air in proportion, to forward its maturity, and pro-
mote a rich flavour

Thus the fruits will ripen early ; some, as cherries, will be
ripe in April and early in May; grapes, plums, apricots,
peaches, &c, in May and June ; being two months, or more in
some, before their natural season of perfection in the open
ground and full air.

When the fruit is all gathered, remove or open all the glasses
to admit the full air to the trees till next forcing season.

In the above forcing departments may also place pots of cur-
rants, gooseberries, raspberries, and strawberries.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN.

TENDER ANNUAL FLOWERS. '

About the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, it
will be time to begin to prepare for sowing some of the more
curious sorts of tender annuals.

The choicest kinds are the double balsams, cockscombs, and
tricolors, the globe amaranthus, marvel of Peru, diamond ficoi-
des or ice-plant, egg-plant, stramonium, browallia, &-c. (See
next month.) All these require the assistance of a hotbed to
bring them forward, in order that they may blow early, and in
some tolerable perfection.

Therefore, about the middle or latter end of this month, pro-
vide some new horse dung, and let it be thrown up in a heap,
and in eight or ten days it will be in good condition to make
the bed. Let the bed be made about two feet and a half thick
of dung, making the top level, and then set on the frame and
glass. When the burning heat of the bed is over, lay on the
earth, observing that, for this use, it must be rich, light, and
perfectly dry, and must be broken pretty small, by rubbing it
between the hands : the depth of earth on the bed must be
about five or six inches, making the surface level and smooth.

OE FLOWER GARDEN.

99

The seed may either be sown on the surface, observing to
sow each sort separate, and cover them about a quarter of an
inch, or a little more or less, with light earth ; or you may draw
some shallow drills with your finger, from the back to the front,
of the bed, and sow the seeds therein, and cover them as above,
or may sow them in pots, and plunge them into the earth of the
hotbed.*

When the plants appear, admit fresh air to them every day '
when the weather is anything mild ; and let them have, now
and then, little sprinklings of water. Mind to cover the glasses
every night with mats.

But in raising the above annuals, if it is required to be saving
of hot dung and trouble, and that if there are cucumber or
melon hotbeds at work, you may sow them in pots, and place
them in those beds to raise the plants, which may be afterwards
transplanted or pricked in pots in the same, or into a nursery-
hotbed to forward them to a proper size.— See April and May.\

For the further management of these plants, and directions
for sowing a general supply of the same sorts, together with
several other tender annuals, see the work of the Pleasure
Garden in March.

SOWING TEN-WEEK STOCKS AND MIGNONETTE.

The ten-week stock is a pretty annual ; none make a more
agreeable appearance in the borders and in pots, &c, and it
continues a long time in bloom ; and the mignonette imparts a
sweet odour. It is now time, about the beginning, and towards
the middle and latter end of this month, to sow a little of the
seed of each, to raise a few plants to blow early in the summer.

The seed may either be sown in a slight hotbed, or in a warm
border, or in a bed or pots of natural earth, for the plants are
tolerably hardy ; but by sowing the seed at this time in a mo-
derate hotbed, it will bring the plants on much forwarder, and
he blow will be stronger, and earlier by three weeks or a month,
than those sown at the same time in the natural ground.

But where a hotbed cannot readily be procured, some seed

* For this purpose it must, be rich light mould, and perfectly dry. Vegetable
mou d of decayed tree leaves is the best. It must be broken fine, or put through

V?i leslr Ihf As,pth of mmM 0,1 the bed should be from Sve to six incliSs
Make the surface level and smooth. Draw shallow driUs across the bed at six or
eight niches apart ; and as some of those seeds are very small, they must not be
covered deep: about a quarter of an inch of fine leaf-mould, s.ftod regularly over
them, will be sufficient. Give the surface a gentle beat with the back of a Bpade,
and give a gentle sprinkling of water when necessary.

w^yA sulScient number of plants of these sorts may be generally raised in the abnvs-

100

THE PLEASURE

[Feb.

may either be sown in one or more middling-sized pots, placed
under shelter of a frame and glasses, or hand-glasses, &c, or
toward the middle or latter end of this month, let a small spot
of a warm border be neatly digged, and there mark out a bed
about three feet broad ; sow the seed tolerably thick on the
surface,- and rake it neatly, or may be sown in drills : then arch
the bed over low with hoops, and cover them with mats every
night, and in bad weather. But if the above bed of natural
earth could be covered with a frame and glass, or with hand-
glasses, it would be a greater advantage to the plants.

When the plants have been up about a month or six weeks,
they should be transplanted where they are to remain.

But if your plants stand thick in the seed-bed, some of them,
when they have been up about three or four weeks, or when
about an inch high, may be pricked out, either in a slight hot-
bed, which will forward them considerably, and some in small
pots placed therein, three plants in each, or others upon a warm
border, three inches asunder; and when they have stood a
montn, all those not potted should be planted where they are
to remain.

HARDY ANNUAL FLOWER- SEEDS.

About the latter end of this month, if the weather is mild
and dry, you may sow many sorts of hardy annual flower-seeds
in borders, and other parts of the pleasure garden.

The sorts proper to sow at this time are larkspur and flos
Adonis, convolvulus, lupines, ■ scarlet pea, sweet-scented and
Tangier peas, candy-tuft, dwarf lychnis, Venus' looking-glass,
Lobel's catch-fly, Venus' navel wort, dwarf poppy, nigella,
queen's balm, annual sun-flower, oriental mallow, lavatera, and
hawk-weed, with many other sorts. — See the Catalogue of
annuals at the end of the book.

All the above seeds must be sown in the places where you
intend the plants shall flower, in beds, borders, pots, &c. They
must not be transplanted, for these sorts will not succeed so
well by that practice. The following is the method : —
- Dig with a trowel small patches in the flower-borders, about
six inches in the width, at small or moderate distances, break-
ing the earth well, and making the surface even ; draw a little
earth ofF the top to one side, then sow the seed therein, each
sort in separate patches, and cover it with the earth that was
drawn off, observing to cover the small seed about a quarter or

Feb.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

101

near half an inch deep, according to their size; but the larger
seed must be covered an inch deep at least.

When the plants have been come up some time, the larger-
growing kinds should, where they stand too thick, be regularly
thinned ; observing to allow every kind, according to its growth,
proper room to grow.

For instance, the sunflower to be left one in a place ; the
oriental mallow, and lavatera, not more than three ; the lupines
four or five in a patch, the convolvulus, the same number ; the
rest may be left thicker. — See May, &c.

BLOWING ANNUALS EARLY IN A HOTHOUSE.

Any sorts of desirable annuals of moderate growth may be
flowered early in a hothouse, with little trouble, sowing the
seeds in pots, and placing them in any part of the house, or
towards the front or end glasses ; or, to have them as forward
as possible, some may be plunged into the bark-bed, &c.

PLANTING HARDY HERBACEOUS FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERING
PERENNIALS.

Now you may plant, where wanted, most sorts of hardy
fibrous-rooted flowering plants, both of perennials and biennials,
if mild open weather ; such as polyanthuses, primroses, London-
pride, violets, double daisies, double chamomile, thrift, gentia-
nelli, hepaticas, and saxifrage.

Plant also rose-campion, rockets, campanula, catch-fly, scar-
let-lychnis, double feverfew, bachelor's-button, carnations, pinks,
sweet-williams, columbines, Canterbury-bells, monkshood,
Greek valerian, tree primrose, foxglove, golden rods, perennial
asters, perennial sunflowers, holyhocks, French honeysuckles,
and many others.

In planting the above, or any other sorts, observe to dispose
them regularly, and intermix the different kinds in such order,
as there may be a variety of colours, as well as a regular suc-
cession of flowers in every part during the flowering season.

■ DRESSING THE AURICULA PLANTS.

Now, in settled mild weather, prepare to dress the auricula
plants in pots, and add some fresh earth to them, provided it
was not done the latter end of January. But this is now a
more proper season for performing this necessary work, observ-
ing the same method as directed last month ; and the sooner it
is now done the better

102

THE PLEASURE

The choice kinds of auriculas in pots must now be treated
■with more than ordinary care, for their flower-buds will soon
begin to appear ; therefore the plants should be defended from
frost and cold heavy rains.

This must be done by a covering of mats, canvas, or glass ;
but every mild and dry day the plants must be entirely un-
covered.

SOWING AURICULA AND POLYANTHUS SEEDS.

Auricula and polyanthus seeds may be sown any time in this
month ; they will grow freely, and the plants from this sowing
will rise well. The seeds may be sown in a warm spot in the
common ground, or in boxes, or large pots filled with light rich
earth ; "but the pots or boxes are often preferred, because they
can readily be removed to different situations, as the season
may require.

The seeds must be sown tolerably thick, and covered with
light earth, about a quarter of an inch deep.

Place the boxes in a situation well defended from northerly
winds, and open to the morning and mid-day sun ; in two
months or. ten weeks' time, they must be removed to a more
shady place.

In June or July they will be fit to transplant ; for which, see
the work of the Flower Garden in those months.

TRANSPLANTING CARNATION PLANTS.

Transplant the carnation plants in mild weather, which
were raised last year from layers, into the large pots and bor-
ders, &c, where you intended them to remain to blow, if not
done in autumn ; let this be done about the latter end of the
month, if the plants are in tolerable strength.

Those intended for pots should generally be some of the
choicest fine varieties ; and if the plants have been wintered in
small pots, or in beds, &c, you may now, if settled mild wea-
ther, transplant them finally into the proper-sized pots (twenty-
fours, or sixteens), to remain for flowering.

Fill, for that purpose, some pots with light rich earth ; then
having any plants in small pots, turn them out with the ball of
earth about their roots, entire : or, if growing in beds, take
them up also with balls, or as much earth as will readily hang
about their roots ; set one plant in the middle of each large
pot, and close the earth well about the roots and stem of the
plants, giving them immediately a moderate watering, which

Feb.]

OH FLOWER GARDEN.

103

will settle the earth close to the roots, and the plants well in
their places.

When all is planted, set the plants in a situation well shel-
tered from cold winds.

Likewise plant carnations in the flower borders, in open wea-
ther, the middle or latter end of the month.

TULIPS, HYACINTHS, &c.

Defend the beds of the more curious or valuable tulips, hya-
cinths, anemones, and ranunculuses, from frost, snow, and exces-
sive rains ; the plants will now begin to appear above ground ;
and the beds wherein the finest of these flower-roots are planted
should now, where intended, and if not done before, be arched
over with, hoops ; and in frosty, or extremely bad weather, let
mats or canvas be drawn over to defend the advancing flower-
buds.

This; where it can be conveniently done, should not now be
omitted to the choicest kinds, when required to have them
blow in their ultimate perfection ; for although they are hardy
enough, yet being protected in their early flower-buds this and
next month from inclement weather, the blow will be much
finer than if fully exposed ; however, this care is not necessary
for the common kinds, either in beds or borders.

DRESSING AND DIGGING THE BORDERS, BEDS, &c.

Now let the flower-beds and borders in general be thoroughly
cleared from weeds, and every kind of litter ; for neatness in
those parts of the garden is agreeable at all times, but more
particularly at this season, when the flowers and plants of most
kinds are beginning to push.

Therefore, let the surface of the beds and borders be lightly
and carefully loosened with a hoe, in a dry day, and let them
be neatly raked, which will give an air of liveliness to the sur-
face, and the whole will appear neat and very pleasing to the
eye, and well worth the labour.

Likewise, if any borders, beds, &c, were not digged last
autumn or winter, it should now be done, ready for the recep-
tion of flower plants, seeds, &c, and that the whole may appear
fresh and lively.

PRUNING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

Finish pruning flowering shrubs and evergreens, where they
want it.

104 THE PLEASURE [FEB

In doing this work, observe to cut out all dead wood ; and
■where any of the branches are too long, or grow straggling, let
them be shortened, or cut off close, as you shall see it neces-
sary ; and likewise, where the branches of different shrubs in-
terfere, or run into each other, let them be cut shorter, so that
every shrub may stand singly, and clear one of another ; then
all the different shrubs will show themselves distinctly, and to
the best advantage.

When the shrubs are pruned, let the cuttings be cleared away,
and then let the ground be neatly dug between and about all
the plants, observing to take off all suckers arising from the
roots. Nothing looks better in a shrubbery than to see the
ground neat and fresh between the flowering shrubs and ever-
greens, &c, especially in such clumps and other compartments
where the shrubs stand distant.

But as sometimes particular parts of a shrubbery are on some
occasions required to form a close thicket, in that case very lit-
tle pruning, or digging, &c, is wanted.

PLANTING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

Most sorts of flowering shrubs may now be safely removed
any time this month when it is open weather.

But particularly the Guelder-roses, syringas, laburnum, lilacs-
honeysuckles, roses, spiraeas, and althaea-frutex, hypericum-fru-
tex, Persian lilac, double-blossomed cherry, double bramble,
cornelian cherry, and double hawthorn : you may likewise plant
bladder-senna, scorpion-senna, privet, Spanish broom, jasmines,
sumach, cistuses, and acacias, with many other sorts of hardy
deciduous shrubs, which may now be safely transplanted ; for
most sorts will take root very freely and soon at this season.

PLANTING EVERGREENS.

About the middle, or any time in this month, if settled mild
weather, you may transplant phillyreas, alaternus, yews, ever-
green oaks, junipers, hollies, phlomises, savins, vines, firs,
cypress, cedars, laurels, laurustinus, pyracantha, arbutus, arbor-
vita?, cistuses, with most other kinds of hardy evergreen shrubs
and trees.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING THE VARIOUS SORTS OF SHRUBS, &c

In planting and decorating the clumps and quarters in the
shrubbery, care should be taken to dispose the various sorts of
flowering shrubs and plants in such order, as that the different

Feb.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

105

kinds may be easily seen conspicuously distinct from the adja-
cent walks or lawns. They should not be planted too close
together, but generally about four or five feet distance; nor
should they be suffered, as they grow up, to interfere with each
other ; for that would deprive you of the pleasure of seeing the
different shrubs to advantage.

When any of the more curious kind of shrubs are to be con-
veyed to any great distance for planting, great care should be
taken to pack them well ; they should be tied in bundles, and
their roots well packed round with straw, and every bundle
packed up in mats.

Likewise any sorts of shrubs obtained from nurseries in bun-
dles should be soon unpacked, and trenched in the ground
together by the roots, till they can be planted.

CARE OF GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS.

Grass walks and lawns should be kept extremely clean ; now
the season for mowing begins to approach ; pole and roll them
every week, in dry open weather ; a wooden roller is best to
roll with immediately after poling, to take up the scattered
worm-casts ; and when the grass is thus clean, and the surface
dry, it should be rolled occasionally with a heavy roller, to
make the bottom firm and smooth.

The edges of the grass walks or lawns should be all neatly
cut even with an edging-iron about the end of this month, which
will be a vast addition to the neatness of them.

LAYING TURF.

Grass turf may be laid any time this month, where wanted,
either to make new or mend old work, for it will now grow
freely with little trouble ; observing to beat it well, and roll it
with a heavy roller now and then, to make the surface firm and
even. — See last and next month.

GRAVEL WALKS.

Keep the gravel walks perfectly free from weeds, moss, and
litter of any sort ; and let them be well rolled occasionally in
dry weather.

PLANTING HEDGES.

Plant hedges where wanted, especially deciduous kinds ;
such as hawthorn, privet, white-thorn, hornbeam, beech, elder,
elm, &c. — See December, for the method of planting.
E 2

[06 THE PLEASURE [Feb,

Likewise is a proper time to plash old hedges, that are run
up naked, or open below. — See also December.

PLANTING BOX, &c, FOR EDGINGS TO BEDS AND BORDERS.

Box, for edging to borders, &c, may be planted any time in
this month ; it will take root in a short time, and there will be
no fear of its success ; likewise, where there are gaps in any
former planted edgings, let the deficiencies be made good ; also
old overgrown or irregular edgings replanted : for nothing looks
worse than ragged and irregular box edgings by the sides of the
walks.

For the method of planting box, see the Flower Garden
for October.

Thrift makes a very compact and beautiful edging if planted
properly and well kept. This may be planted any time this
month, either in a close edging, in the manner directed for box
(see October), or planted with a dibble, setting the plants near
enough to touch one another, so as at once to form a tolerably
close edge-row, as aforesaid, or however not above two or three
inches asunder ; and if you give it two or three good waterings
in dry weather, it will grow freely.

Double daisies make also tolerably good edgings, and may
be employed both in default of the two former, and to effect
variety in particular compartments, and will make a good ap-
pearance in April, May, and June, when in flower. Let them
be planted nearly close, or not more than two or three inches'
distance in the row.

Thyme, hyssop, winter savory, and lavender, are sometimes
planted for edgings to borders ; but these rather grow out of
compass, or get stubby and naked, by close clipping.

But after all, there is nothing makes so neat, effectual, and
durable edging as box.

_ All edgings should be kept very neat and regular, by trim-
ming them at sides and top every spring and summer. — See the
succeeding months.

FORCING EARLY FLOWERS, &c.

Wheke early flowers are required, you may, in the beginning
of this month, place various sorts in pots, in hothouses, forcing-
houses, &c, now at work, and in hotbeds ; such as pots of
pinks, carnations, sweet-williams, anemones, ranunculuses, nar-
cissuses, early dwarf tulips, hyacinths, jonquils, and any other
ornamental and sweet-smelling flowers, both of the fibrous,

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

107

buibous, and tuberous-rooted kinds, and they will blow early
and in good perfection.

Likewise may have pots of roses, and other desirable flower-
ing plants, placed now in the hothouse, or any forcing depart-
ment.

About London the gardeners force various flower plants for
market, which is sometimes effected in boarded forcing-frames,
with the assistance of hot dung, applied to the back part
thereof; these frames being constructed of strong inch and half
boards, made five, six, seven feet high behind, the ends in pro-
portion, and fronted with glass sashes sloping to the top of the
back ; four, five, or six feet wide at bottom, by one foot at top ;
the length at pleasure ; and in which placing pots of plants and
shrubs, hot dung is piled against the back and ends, half a yard
wide at bottom, gradually narrowed to a foot wide at top. The
dung throws in a fine heat, and the plants flower agreeably at
an early time i keeping up the heat when decreased, by the ap-
plication of fresh hot dung.

Though, since hothouses have become so prevailing, these
kind of frames are not generally used.

THE NURSERY.

Finish digging the ground between the rows of all kinds of
young trees and shrubs* first giving any necessary pruning that
may be required.

This work should now be completed as soon as possible for
it will not only destroy all surface-weeds, and render the ground
neat and agreeable to be seen, but will be also advantageous to
the growth of the young trees and shrubs.

PROPAGATING BY CUTTINGS, &c.

Plant cuttings of gooseberries and currants ; by which me-
thod you may propagate the finest sorts in their kinds, and may
also propagate them by suckers.

The cutting for this purpose must be of the last year's shoot*
observing to take such as are strong, of straight growth, and cut
about ten or twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches in length -
plant them m rows, not less than twelve inches asunder, and
put each cutting about one-third or half way into the grouiid

• e. Those which are to remain in the same ground for another year.

108

THE NURSERY.

[Ff,B.

they will soon take root, and will shoot out at top, and form
tolerable branchy heads by the end of the summer, and in a
year or two after will produce fruit.

By suckers also may now raise these trees in abundance.
They commonly throw out many every year from the bottom.—.
See Propagating by Stickers, below.

Be careful to train these trees always with a single stem, six
or eight to ten or twelve inches high, before you form the head.

Plant also cuttings or honeysuckles, and other hardy flower-
ing shrubs and trees ; as many different sorts may be propagated
by that method.

The cuttings must be shoots of the former year's growth:
choose such as have strength, cutting them from the respective
trees and shrubs in proper lengths; or long shoots may be
divided into two or more cuttings, which should not be shorter
than six inches, nor longer than twelve. Plant them in a shady
place, in rows a foot asunder, at six or eight inches' distance in
the row, putting each cutting half way into the earth.

Most kinds of cuttings which are planted now will be well
rooted by next October.

PROPAGATING BY SUCKERS. •

Many kinds of shrubbery plants furnish abundance of suckers
from the root for propagation, particularly gooseberries, currants,
roses, lilacs, syringas, and many other hardy shrubs ; and the
suckers may now be separated from the parent plants, each with
some roots, and planted either in nursery rows for a year or
two, or the largest, at once, where they are to remain.

PROPAGATING BY LAYERS.

Propagate by layers, this being a tolerable good season to
make layers of all such shrubs and trees as are increased by
that method : though the best time to do this is some time be-
tween Michaelmas and Christmas ; but where it was omitted at
that time, it may now be done, and most kinds will still succeed.

In making layers of any kind of trees or shrubs, observe to
dig round the plant that is to be layed, and as you go on bring
down the shoots or branches regularly, and lay them along- in
the earth, with their tops above ground, fastening them securely
there with hooked pegs, and then let all the young shoots ou
each branch be neatly layed. and cover them three or four
inches deep with earth, leaving the top of each tnree or four to
five or six inches out of the ground. — See last month.

ftB.] THE NURSERY. 109

It may be of advantage, in laying some of the more hard-
wooded kinds, to gash or slit the layers an inch or two, by an
upward cut on the under side, as intimated in the Nursery
work of January.

Most kinds of layers, which are now layed, will be tolerably
well rooted, and fit to be transplanted by next Michaelmas ;
some not till the second year.

TRANSPLANTING LAYERS.

Take off the layers of such shrubs and trees as were layed
down last year, and which still remain on the stools.

Let the layers, as soon as they are taken off, be trimmed and
planted in rows in an open situation : let the rows be twelve to
eighteen inches or two feet asunder, according to the size of the
plants ; and put in the plants about twelve or fifteen inches
distant in the row.

SOWING STONES AND KERNELS, &c, TO RAISE STOCKS FOR
GRAFTING, &c.

Sow plum and cherry-stones, &c, if not done in autumn ;
and also the kernels of apples and pears, to raise a supply of
stocks to bud and graft upon.

They may be sown any time this month, in mild weather,
but the sooner the better ; observing to choose a spot of per-
fectly clean and light ground to sow them in ; let them be sown
in beds, three or four feet wide, covering them about an inch
deep with earth.

The plants from this sowing will be fit to transplant next
Michaelmas and spring.

SOWING SEEDS OF SHRUBS AND FOREST TREES.

Sow likewise the seeds, nuts, and berries, &c, of hardy
forest-trees and shrubs. These may be sown the beginning or
any time of the month, in open mild weather. Prepare beds
for this purpose three feet and a half broad : let the seed be
scattered or placed thereon as regular as possible ; ana cover
each kind a proper depth with earth ; none less than half an
inch, nor any much more than an inch and a half deep, except
any large nut kinds.

TRANSPLANTING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

Flowering shrubs of all kinds may now be safely transplanted,
Jiy time when open weather, from the seed-beds or nursery

110

THE NURSERY.

[Feb.

rows, where standing too close, and planted in wider rows, in
the quarters, or in beds, &c, as required ; and if the weather
and time will permit, this work should be completed by the
latter end of the month.

PRUNING AND TRIMMING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

Finish pruning or trimming flowering shrubs in nursery rows,
according as they may require, whereby to regulate any disor-
derly growths, and to train the heads in some regular form.

In doing this work, it would generally be proper to prune or
train the young plants mostly to short single stems below ; and
where the heads of any shrubs are very irregular, or run out in
rambling shoots, let them be reduced to some order and form,
by cutting out or shortening such as may require any regulation,
whereby to form a somewhat orderly shape in the general head.
Likewise suckers arising from the roots should generally be
cleared off, and if carefully detached with some roots to each,
the best of them, if wanted, may be planted in nursery rows at
proper distances : they will make good plants in two or three
years' time ; and the mother plants being cleared therefrom,
will be preserved in a more regular proper growth.

After the above occasional pruning, let the ground be digged
between the rows of the continuing shrubs, if not before done ;
digging it one spade deep, in a neat regular manner, to remain
in good cultivated order all the spring and ensuing summer.

TRANSPLANTING AND PRUNING FOREST AND OTHER TREES.

Transplant young forest-trees, and other tree-kinds, of
young growth, according as it may be necessary, from seed-beds
or nursery rows, &c, where they remain too close ; and let
them be quartered out or planted regularly in the proper nur-
sery order, in rows, twelve to eighteen inches or two or three
feet distance, as the different sizes of growth and particular
sorts require ; or nursery trees of larger sizes, if too considera-
bly crowded, &c, may also be transplanted at more eligible
distances in rows, two or three feet asunder, finally to remain
as long as it is necessary in their nursery growth .

Prune young nursery trees of different sorts, especially of the
deciduous kinds, both forest, ornamental, and fruit-trees, accord-
ing as they may require : cutting away all strong lateral shoots
produced on the stems, and prune any irregular growths above,
in the branches of the head.

Feb.]

THE NURSERY.

Ill

TRANSPLANTING FRUIT TREES.

Fruit trees of any kind may also be removed now ; and there
is no time in the planting season in which they will succeed
better, especially if transplanted soon in the month ; but all
kinds of these trees may, with great safety, be removed any
time in the month, when mild weather.

TRANSPLANTING STOCKS TO BUD AND GRAFT UPON.

Make new plantations of stocks, to bud and graft the differ-
ent kinds of choice fruit upon.

Many of those raised from seeds, &c, last year, will now be
ready for this practice.

Let these be planted out as soon in the montfi as the weather
will permit ; plant them in rows two feet and a half asunder, and
let them be planted at least fifteen inches' distance from one
another in the row. They should be planted by line, either
dibbling in the small plants, or the larger ones trenched or hoed
in with the spade; or otherwise cut out small trenches bylines,
placing the plants therein, at the above distance, and turn the
earth in upon their roots, and tread it gently along.

Head-down budded stocks, or such young trees and shrubs
that were budded the last summer : let this be done with a
sharp knife, observing to cut the head off about four inches
above the place where the bud is inserted. — See the work of
budding and inoculating in June and July.

Grafting may be begun any time after the fifteenth or twen-
tieth of this month, provided the weather be mild.

The sorts proper to begin with are, pears, plums, and cher-
ries j and these kinds generally succeed remarkably well, when
grafted sometime in the last fortnight of this month.

Apples may also be grafted at the same time, or they may be
deferred a fortnight longer, or any time next month.

It should be observed, that, where grafting is to be done,
you should begin to prepare for it the beginning or middle of
this month.

The first thing to be done towards this work is, to select the
grafts : and it must be observed, these must be young shoots,
such only as were produced last year ; for those that are of

HEADING-DOWN BUDDED STOCKS.

PREPARING FOR GRAFTING.

112

THE NURSERY.

[Fed.

more than one year's growth never take well. These shoots or
grafts you may begin to cut from the trees about the middle 01
any time' of this month, in mild weather; tie them in little bun-
dles, each sort separate, and lay the lower ends of them in dry
earth, in a warm border, till the grafting time ; and if severe
weather should happen in the interim, cover them with long
litter.

The reason for cutting the grafts so soon is, because the buds*
will now begin to swell fast ; and if the grafts were not to be
cut off in proper time, the buds would be too far advanced, and
the grafts would by that means not take kindly with the stock,
»r, at least, not shoot so freely.

Before we proceed to the methods of grafting, it will first be
necessary to mention what stocks are proper to graft the differ-
ent kinds of fruit upon ; for instance, apples should be grafted
upon stocks raised from the kernels of the same kinds of fruit,
i. e. any kinds of apples ; for the grafts or buds of these trees
will not take well upon any other stocks.

It should be observed, that for dwarf apple-trees for walls or
espaliers, or for small standards, they should generally be grafted
upon codlin apple stocks, raised either from suckers from the
root, or by cuttings or layers: for the stocks raised from these
are never so luxuriant in growth as those of the larger growing
apple-trees ; and, consequently, trees grafted upon such stocks
will be slower in growth, and can more easily be kept within
due compass, so will answer the purpose for dwarfs or espaliers,
&c, much better than those grafted on larger growing stocks.
Or if required to have them of still more dwarfish growth for
small gardens, may use stocks of the Dutch paradise apple, and
Siberian crab, &c.

.- But for the general supply of apple-stocks for common stan-
dards, and large espalier trees, &c, they are raised principally
from the seed of any sort of apples or wild crabs. The time
for sowing the kernels of apples for stocks is either in Novem-
ber or February ; but if not sown till February, they must be
kept in sand till that time. These are to be sown in beds three
feet and a half wide, observing to sow them moderately thick,
%nd cover them about an inch at least with earth. The plants
will come up in five or six weeks ; and in the autumn or spring
'jllowing some of the largest plants should be drawn out and
planted in nursery-beds ; and in the second or third year after,
they will be in order to graft upon for dwarfs; but for standards,
let them be three, four, or five years old, particularly if you

THE NURSERY.

113

intend to graft them at the height of four, five, or six feet ; or
may occasionally graft for standards as -low as is commonly
practised for dwarfs, and train up one strong shoot from the
graft, to form the stem four, five, or six feet high, then topped
at that height, to make it put out branches to form the head.

Pears are generally grafted or budded upon stocks raised also
from kernels of any of their own kinds of fruits ; or occasionally
upon stocks raised from suckers of pear-trees ; likewise are very
commonly grafted upon quince stocks, whereby to have trees
of more moderate growth, and to form dwarf trees, and which-
stocks are generally raised by seed, cuttings, layers, or suckers ;
and the pears grafted or budded upon these stocks are very
proper for walls or espaliers, and occasionally for small stan-
dards. Sometimes also pears are grafted upon whitethorn
sticks ; but this is improper for any general practice, being not
so successful as stocks of their own family. The1- season for
sowing kernels of pears to raise stocks, transplanting, and time
af grafting, is the same as mentioned above for apples.

Cherries are propagated by grafting or budding them upon
stocks raised from the stones of the common black or red cherry,
or upon stocks raised from the stones of any other kind of these
fruits ; but the first two are most esteemed for that purpose,
because they generally shoot much freer than any other.

The season for sowing the cherry-stones for raising stocks is
October or November, or in the spring ; but when not sown
till spring, they must be laid in boxes of dry sand all the winter,
and sown in February. The stocks will be ready to transplant
the first or second year ; and the second year after that will be
fit to graft or bud, if for dwarfs, for walls, or for espaliers : but
for standards they will require three or four years' growth, or
more, in order to run up with tall stems ; for standard cherries
are generally grafted or budded at the height of five or six feet,
or at one or two to three or four feet, for dwarf and half stan-
dards.

Plums are also grafted or budded upon plum stocks, raised
by sowing the stones of any of the common sorts of the same
fruit ; also raised occasionally by suckers sent up from the roots
of any kinds of plum trees.

The time for sowing the stones to raise the stocks is either
in autumn or spring; but when they are not sown till spring,
they must be preserved in sand till that time; and the middle
of February is a good time to sow them. They will soon sprout,
and the stocks will come up in a free growth, and must be

114

THE NURSERY.

transplanted, some of the largest of them in the autumn or
spring after sowing, and in two or three years after will be fit
to bud or graft upon.

Thus observe as above ; let the stocks for grafting, both of
fruit-trees and others, be always of the same family or genus as
that of the respective trees which are to be grafted.

Note. Stocks in general, which are raised from seed, beiiig
mostly of a stronger growth, are commonly called free stocks.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS FOR PERFORMING THE WORK.

There are several methods of grafting; but we shall only take
notice of three or four, which are the most generally and occa-
sionally practised, such as Whip-grafting, Cleft-grafting, Crown,
grafting, and Grafting by Approach, or Inarching.

Previous to grafting, you must be provided with a proper
grafting-knife, a quantity of strong bass strings for bandages to
tie the stocks and grafts firmly together, and some well-wrought
clay, to clay them round over the tying to secure them from
the air and wet. •

Observe that the stocks intended to be grafted, must, previous
to the insertion of the graft, be headed down ; which, if intended
for dwarf trees, for walls or espaliers, must be headed pretty low,
i. e. within five or six inches of the ground : but if for standards,
they may either be headed at five or six feet high, or at one,
two, three, or four feet, for dwarf or half standards, or occasion,
ally, for standards some may be headed as low as directed for
dwarfs, particularly apples and pears, and so train up one strong
shoot from the graft for a stem till it is five or six feet high ;
then topped or cut off at that height, to cause it to throw out
branches to form the head.

FIRST, BY WHIP-GRAFTING.

This kind of grafting is that the most commonly practised in
the nurseries, as being both the most expeditious and success-
ful, and may be performed upon smaller stocks by one or two
years' growth, and thereby gain time ; for it is effected with
the greatest success upon small stocks, from about half an inch,
or less, to near an inch in diameter : but commonly prefer small
stocks of about half an inch thick in the part intended for the
insertion of the graft ; and the method of performing the work
is this : —

Having your scions or grafts, &c, ready ; then begin the work
by cutting off the head of the stock slopingly, at a convenient

Feb.]

THE NURSERY.

115

height, according to the rules above hinted ; this done, fixupon
a smooth part of the stock, where headed off, and there cut
away the bark or rind, with part of the wood, in a clean slopins
manner upwards, about an inch and a half to two inches in
length, then having the scions cut into lengths of four or five
eyes each, prepare one to fit the stock, as above, by cutting it
also a little sloping, so as to exactly fit the cut part of the stock,
as if cut from the same place, that the rinds of both may nearly
join in every part; then cut a slit or tongue about half an inch
in length upwards in the scions, and cut a slit the same length,
downwards in the stock, to receive the said tongue ; in that
manner fix the graft in the stock, taking care that the sap or
rind of both may meet or join as exact and evenly as possible
in every part. Having thus fixed the graft, let it be immediately
tied with a string of soft bass, bringing it in a neat manner
several times round the graft and stock, taking care to preserve
the graft in its due position ; and let the bandage be neatly tied,
and immediately cover the place with some grafting clay, ob-
serving to bring the clay near an inch above the top of the
stock, and a little lower than the bottom part of the graft, leav-
ing a due thickness on every side of the graft and stock, making
it in a roundish oval form, and taking care to close it well in
every part, that no wet, wind, or sun can enter, to prevent
which is the whole intention of the clay ; for without that pre-
caution, the operation would prove fruitless : and in this manner
proceed with the rest.

In performing the operation of whip-grafting, some grafters
first cut and prepare the scion, and then cut and fit the stocks to
that ; but it is not material which, provided it be done in an
exact and somewhat expeditious manner.

Next it must be noted, that the grafts must be now and then
examined, to see if the clay anywhere falls off or cracks : if it
does, it must be renewed with fresh clay.

By the last week in May, or first week in June,* the grafts
or stocks will be well united ; and then take off the clay, and
loosen the bandages a little.

SECOND, BY CLEFT- GRAFTING.

The next general method of grafting is that by clefting the
stock, commonly called cleft or slit-grafting, because the stock
is cleft, and the graft put into the cleft part ; and is performed
in the following manner : —

* In Scotland, by the last week in June, or first week in July.

-116 THE NURSERY. j-p^

The proper sized stocks on which this kind of grafting is per
formed are generally about an inch, or an inch and a half and
even two inches or more,, in diameter. First, with a strong
knife, cut off the head of the stock very smooth ; this done fix
upon a smooth part, just below where headed, and on the oppo
site side to that, cut away part of the stock, about an inch and
a half, in a sloping manner upwards, so as the crown of the
stock may not be more than about half an inch broad. This
done, prepare your graft or scion, which is done in this manner •
observe to cut your grafts into proper lengths, of about six to
eight or ten inches, with several eyes or buds to each ; then
take your sharpest knife, and pare away the bark and some of
the wood at the lower end of the graft in a sloping manner '
about an inch and a half, or near two inches in length, on two
sides, making it to have a wedge-like shape ; but let one side of
it, which is to be placed outwards in the stock, be left double
the thickness of the other side, and with the rind continued
thereon. The graft being prepared, take your strong knife, and
place it in the middle of the stock, crossways the top of the
sloped part, and with a small mallet, &c, strike the knife to the
stock, observing to cleave it no farther than what is necessary
to admit the graft readily ; then place the knife, or some small
instrument, a little way into the cleft, at the sloped part of the
stock, to keep it open for the reception of the graft, which then
directly introduce into the cleft on the upright side of the stock,
at the back of the slope, inserting it with great exactness, as far
as it is cut, with the thickest edge outwards, and so that the
rind may meet exactly every way with the rind of the stock.
The graft being placed, then remove the knife or wedge, taking
care not to displace the graft ; this done, let it be tied and well
clayed, m the manner directed as above, in the work of whip or
tongue-grafting.

Or if, in this cleft-grafting, you choose to put in two grafts,
it may be performed on large stocks, which must be twice cleft,
the clefts parallel to each other, and so fix the grafts in the
stock, as above.

This kind of grafting may likewise be performed on the
Oranches of trees that already bear fruit, if you desire to change
the sorts.

The grafts will be united with the stocks by the last week in
May, or the beginning of June ; and then take off the clay,
and loosen the bandages, and apply fresh clav at the top of the
stock.

THE NURSERY.

117

THIRD, BY CRO\VN- GRAFTING.

The third lund of grafting is known by the name of crown-
grafting, as sometimes three, four, or more grafts are inserted
round the crown of the stock, in a circular order, introduced
betwixt the bark and the wood.

This way of grafting is commonly practised upon such stocks
as are too large and stubborn to cleave, and is often performed
upon the branches of apple and pear trees, &c, that already
bear fruit, when it is intended to change the sorts, or to' renew
the tree with fresh bearing wood.

The manner of doing this sort of grafting is as follows : —

First, to cut off the head of the tree or stock level, or of any
particular branch of a tree which you intend to graft, and pare
the top perfectly smooth ; then prepare your grafts, which is
done by cutting one side flat and a little sloping, about two
inches in length, making a kind of shoulder at the top of the
cut, to rest on the head of the stock ; and pare off only a little
of the bark toward each edge of the other side of the graft ; then
prepare to insert it, which, in this order of grafting, must be
effected by introducing the cut part down betwixt the bark and
wood of the stock ; first slitting the bark or rind from the top
downwards, clean through to the firm wood, two inches or two
inches and a half in length ; and having a small thin wedge of
iron or wood, and opening the rind of the stock a little at the
top of the slit, introduce the wedge gently down betwixt the '
wood and rind, far enough to make way for admitting the graft :
then drawing out the wedge, insert the graft in that part with
the cut sloped side towards and close to the wood of the stock
aforesaid, slipping it nearly down the length of its cut part, rest-
ing the shoulder thereof, prepared as above, upon the top of the
stock ; and in this manner you may put four, five, or more
grafts, as may seem convenient, upon each stock, and bind them
round with strong bass.

When the grafts are all thus fixed, you must then immedi-
ately apply a good quantity of well-wrought clay, bringing it
close about the stock and grafts, observing to raise it at least
an inch above the top of the stock, in a rounding manner, so as
to throw the wet quickly off, and prevent it lodging or getting
into the work, which would ruin all.

Those trees which are grafted this way, generally succeed
prosperously ; but for the first year or two after grafting, the
grafts being liable to be blown out of the stock by violent winds,

1 18 THE NURSERY. rjpgjj-

this must be remedied by tying some firm sticks to the body of
the stock or branch that is grafted, and the grafts tied to the
sticks.

The best time for performing this kind of grafting is in the
last week in March, or the first week in April ; for then the sap
will begin to be more in motion, which renders the bark of the
Stock much easier to be separated from the wood, to admit the
graft.

These grafts will be pretty well united with the stock by the
end of May, or beginning of June.

FOURTH, GRAFTING BY APPROACH, OR INARCHING.

Another way of grafting, occasionally practised, is called
Inarching, or Grafting by Approach ; but is not eligible for any
general practice, only chiefly for particular trees, that do not
propagate freely by any other method, and for some occasions
of curiosity.

The method of performing the operation is this : —
When it is intended to propagate any kind of trees or shrulis
by this manner of grafting, it must be observed, that the stock
you would graft upon, and the tree from which you would take
the graft, must stand so near, or can be placed so near, that the
branch you would inarch can, as it grows upon the parent tree,
be brought to approach and join readily to a convenient part ot
the stock, thereby forming together a sort of arch ; hence it is
called Inarching, &c. ; for the graft is not to be separated from
the mother-plant till some months after performing the opera-
tion ; nor is the head of the stock to be cut off till that time,
except you cannot otherwise conveniently fix the graft.

For instance, either having the stocks and the trees designed
for inarching growing in the full ground near together, or have
one or both in pots, to place near each other as required ; or
that you want to inarch some branches of trees, &c, that are
three, four, or five feet, or more, from the surface of the ground,
and suppose the stocks you would graft upon to be in pots ; in
that case may erect a kind of slight stage, as high as the
branches of the tree ; upon this stage the pots which contain
the stocks must be placed. Thus far observed, then, in either
ease, proceeding to the work, take one of the branches you de-
sire to inarch, and bring the body of the said branch to touch
that of the stock, at such a convenient height, where the stock
End graft is nearly of a size, and mark the parts where the graft
and stock will most readily join together ; then, in that part nf

THE NURSERY

119

the branch, pare away the bark and part of the wood, abou
three inches in length; and in the same manner let the rind and
wood be pared off that side of the stock where the branch is to
be joined, the same length and breadth, so that both the cut
parts may exactly join, rind to rind ; then cut a slit upwards in
the branch, near an inch long, forming thereby a sort of tongue,
and make a slit of the same length downwards in the stock, to
receive the said tongue of the branch ; then let them be joined,
placing the branch with the top upright, slipping the tongue of
the graft into the slit made in the stock ; and see that the cut
parts join in an exact manner, and let them be immediately tied
together with some bass, and afterwards cover over the place
with a due quantity of well-wrought clay, very well closed, that
no air or wet can penetrate.

After this, let a stout stake be driven into the ground, and
that part of the stock and graft must be fastened to it, which
prevents the graft from being displaced by the wind.

Remember that the stock and graft are to remain in that
position for at least fifteen or sixteen weeks, when they will be
well united ; the graft is then to be separated from the mother-
plant, being careful to do this with a perfect sharp knife, cutting
off the engrafted branch with a slope downwards to the stock •,
and, if not done in grafting, the head of the stock must now be
cut close to the graft. The old clay and bandage are at this
time to be taken off ; and at the same time it would be advis-
able to tie them again gently, and also to put them in fresh clay,
which will still be of great service, and let them remain so for a
month or five weeks.

By this kind of grafting, you may raise almost any kind of
tree or shrub ; and it is often practised by wav of curiosity, to
ingraft a fruit-bearing branch of a fruit-tree "upon one of the
common stocks of the respective sorts, by which means there
is raised a new tree, bearing fruit, in a few months ; this is
sometimes practised upon orange-trees, &c, by grafting fruit
branches on stocks raised to a proper size from the kernels of
the fruit.

Note. In this method of grafting, the stocks may occasionally
be both in the full ground or in pots ; the latter is necessary
where the branches of the trees you would inarch are not neat
enough the ground, or for orange and other greenhouse trees
and shrubs; but as for such trees and shrubs as grow in the
common ground, and whose branches are favourably situated
for that work, there may be stocks placed either in pots, or

120

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[Fes'.

planted in the ground near the said trees, &c, or it may be per-
formed on stocks or trees that grow accidentally near.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

The green-house should have good attendance at this season.:
both to give the plants occasional waterings and admissions of
fresh air, as also, if severe frosts should prevail, to give neces-
sary protection, as in January.

In open mild weather, they will need refreshments of water
now and then, and daily admission of external air ; but will not
now require water all alike, nor all at one time : though all
should enjoy an equal benefit of fresh air, by opening the win-
dows every mild day.

Examine, therefore, the tubs and pots separately, to see which
want water, and which do not ; then let water be given accord-
ingly, only where necessary, and always very moderately j a
little will be serviceable, but too much will be of bad conse-
quence at this season.

Oranges, lemons, and myrtles, and most other of the woody
plants, will require water frequently ; but never give them much
at a time, and to none but where absolutely necessary.

The herbaceous kinds will also require occasional supplies of
water, but less frequent, and in less quantities, than the woody
tribe.

Let the succulent kinds, such as aloes, sedums, ficoides, &c,
have water but very sparingly at this time, and only when the
earth in the pots is very dry,

Air should be admitted to the plants in the green-bouse at
all times when the weather is favourable ; for that is a necessary
article, and the plants cannot thrive without it, nor continue in
a healthful lively appearance. Every day, when the weather is
tolerably mild, let some of the windows be opened a little way,
for the admission of air, and take care that they are shut again
in due time ; that is, about three, four, or five in the evening,
according to the temperature of the weather; but if cold sharp
air, shut them sooner in proportion.

In frosty weather, keep the green-house close ; and if very
severe, defend the windows at night, &c, and make occasional
&es. — See January.

Feb.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

121

Another thing to be regarded is, to keep the plants of all
kinds free from casual decayed shoots and leaves, for those are
not only hurtful to the plants while in the house, but appear
very unsightly ; therefore, whenever such appear, let them be
constantly taken off ; and if the leaves appear foul or dusty,
tvater over the heads of the plants in a mild sunny day, which
will clean and refresh them very beneficially ; keep also the
pots, &c, and green-house, always neatly clean.

There is another thing which will be of great service to the
oranges, lemons, and to the plants in general, and may be per-
formed the latter end of this, or any time next month ; that is
to loosen the earth in the top of the pots or tubs, and take a
little out, half an inch or an inch deep, and add some fresh in
its stead ; this will certainly prove very beneficial to the plants ;
and whoever will bestow that little dressing upon them, will see
the advantage of it in a short time.'

ORANGES AND MYRTLES.

Where any of the oranges, lemons, and myrtles, &c, have
naked or irregular heads, you may now, towards the latter end
of the month, if mild fine weather, begin to reduce them to some
regularity. The branches or head may either be cut close, or
shortened less or more to the place where you desire shoots to
rise, to form the head regular, for they will break out in the old
wood.

Then when any trees are thus headed down, it would also be
an advantage to shift them, especially such as are of a weakly
growth, in order to add a little fresh earth about their roots ,
and the method is this : let the tree be taken out of its tub or
pot, but preserve the ball of earth entire ; and then trim off with
your knife any very matted, dry root-fibres round the outside,
and also some of the loose old earth from the bottom and sides
of the ball ; then, having some fresh compost ready, put some
into the bottom of the pot or tub ; place the tree therein, fill up
round the ball with fresh earth, and give it a little water.

, But in heading down any of the green-house plants, if time
will not permit, or that you think it not necessary to shift them
as above, do not, however, fail to loosen the earth in the top of
the tub or pots, and a little way down round the sides, and
draw this loose earth out » then fill up the tub again with new
compost, and give some water.

But where any orange or lemon-trees are in a very weak or
eirkly unprosperou? growth, it would be advisable, about thfi

F

122 THE HOT-HOUSE. . [piD

latter end of this month, or any time in March, to prune the
heads, and shift them into entire new earth, taking the plant
clean out of the pot, all the old earth shaken entirely from its
roots, and all mouldy and decayed roots cut off; then let the
whole root be washed in water, and plant it again immediately
in a tub or pot of new earth, taking care not to place it too
deep ; and give water moderately.

After this shifting, it would be of great advantage to the same
plants, if you have the conveniency of a glass-case, &c, in which
to make a hotbed of tan or dung, but tan is much the best ; and
if in this bed the trees are plunged, they will shoot sooner, and
more freely, both in the root and top, to recover good strength,
and a renewed head of branches of prosperous growth, early in
the following summer.

THE HOT-HOUSE,

Fires must be continued e,'ery night and morning in the
hothouse, and occasionally all day, when severe frosts or cold
cutting weather.

Likewise a proper degree of heat must now be preserved in
the bark-bed, in the hot-house, wherein the pines are. plunged;
for many of the plants will now begin to show fruit, and to
make the young fruit grow freely, there must be a lively heat
in the bark-bed.

Nothing can contribute so much to the fine growth of these
young fruit, as a moderately brisk heat in the bark-bed wherein
the plants are plunged ; for if there be not a proper bottom-heat
about the roots of the plants, it. is impossible to make the fruit
swell to any tolerable size.

Therefore, where the bark-bed was not stirred up the former
month, to renew the fermentation, and revive the declined heat,
it should now be done, for the heat will consequently begin now
to be very faint ; and by stirring up the bark almost to the bot-
tom, it will bring on a fresh fermentation therein, by which
means the bed will again recover a lively growing heat, and the
good effect of it will soon appear, both in the plants and fruit,
provided it be done in due time ; but if the heat is greatly
decreased, and the bark decayed, you may augment it at the
same time with about one-third or fourth part of new tan, other-
wise defer it till next month, which see.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

123

However, where the work of forking up the bark-bed appears
necessary at this time, agreeable to the observations above-
mentioned, it should, if possible, be done in the first week in
the month ; for if it is delayed much longer, the plants and fruit
will certainly, for want of a due proportion of heat, be much
checked in their growth. Observe, in the first place, to take
all the pots out of the bark ; then begin at one end of the bed,
and open a kind of trench, by taking out some of the bark, and
carrying it to the other end ; this done, begin at the trench, a,nd
with a fork dig and work up the bark, quite to the bottom,
taking care to break the cakes or lumps, and mix the parts all
well together, and fill up at last with that taken out of the first
opening.

When this is done, let the top be made level, and then im-
mediately plunge the pots again to their rims as before. This
work is so very necessary, that it should not, on any considera-
tion, be omitted at the time above-mentioned ; that is to say,
if the bark has much declined in its heat.

The bark-bed being thus treated, will soon renew its heat,
and retain the same well for six weeks to come, or thereabouts.

At the expiration of that time, or some time in March or
beginning of April, the bark will require to be stirred up again,
and refreshed with about one-third, or at least one-fourth part
of new tan ; the bark-bed after this will retain a proper degree
of heat, till the fruit is ripe. — See March and April.

The bank-bed wherein the succession pine-plants are plunged,
should also be examined now with good attention ; and if the
heat is found to be much decreased, the bed should be treated
in the manner above directed.

WATERING THE PINES.

The fruiting pine-apple plants should now have moderate
refreshments of water, provided there be a good heat in the
bark-bed : and when there is a proper degree of heat and mo-
derate moisture together, it will make the young fruit swell
very fast.

But in watering these plants, be careful to give it moderately
at each time. The rule is this : let the earth in the pots which
contain the plants be kept just a little moist, in a middling de-
gree ; and if this is observed, the plants and fruit will thrive.

The succession pine-plants, that is, those which are to fruit
next year, must also be refreshed now and then with water ; in

121

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[Fo.

watering these, let the same rule be observed as just mentioned
above.

Remember also to give water at times to the younger succes.
sion pines, consisting of the last year's crowns and suckers.

In watering the pine-plants in general in the bark-beds, we
should still be cautious that no water, or but as little as possi-
ble, fall into the hearts of them, where, being apt to lodge, it
would prove detrimental, in some degree, to these kind of exo-
tics, at this season j but, to prevent this, it would be advisable
to have such a tin pipe as mentioned last month, to use occa-
sionally in watering them ; and would be particularly assistant
in watering the plants in the interior parts of the bark-bed.

Such a pipe as above would not only be convenient foi
watering the pines, but any other exotics placed at a distance,
either in wide bark-beds, or in any other situation in the hot-
house, &c, and may be performed with greater exactness.

OF THE VARIOUS KINDS OF PLANTS IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

In some hot-houses there are kept many other kinds of curi-
ous exotic plants, beside the pines, both of the succulent and
woody kinds, &c. ; and as they are all tender exotics from simi-
lar hot parts ot America, Africa, &c, nearly of equal tempera-
ture,^ one general degree of internal heat in the hot-house, as is
requisite for the pines, is applicable to the whole ; and they
being all in pots, may be placed in any part of the house where
room, except the pines, which must be continued constantly
plunged in the bark-bed.

All these kinds of plants should be kept remarkably clean
from dust, or any sort of filth that may at any time gather upon
their stems, shoots, or leaves; and such should always be
washed off as soon as it appears. There is nothing more
necessary than cleanliness to preserve the health of all these
tender plants ; and where any considerable foulness is permitted
upon any one of them, it will not only close up those small
pores which are so necessary to the growth of all vegetables,
but will also promote insects, and render the whole plant un-
healthy.

These plants must also be kept very free from decayed
leaves ; that is, when any such appear, let them be immediately
taken off, for they would injure the plants.

^ Water should also be given to all these plants at times ; some
will require but very little, and seldom, and others will need it
pretty often. Therefore let good care be taken that every

Feb.] the hothouse. 105

plant, according to its nature, be properly supplied with that
article ; but be sure never to give any sort too much at a time ;
and in giving it, always make a distinction between the succu-
lent and the herbaceous and woody kinds.

The woody plants, &c, will need water oftener, and more at
a time, than the succulent kinds ; for some of these require
very little moisture about their roots, and too much would rot
the plants.

Let the woody kinds, &c, in general be moderately watered,
not less than once or twice a-week ; and it will be serviceable
to sprinkle water sometimes all over the head or branches of
these plants, especially the coffee-trees, the pimento or all-
spice, and all the tender acacias and mimosa, &c.

But the succulent kinds, such as the torch -thistles, melon-
thistles, ceruses, flcoides, aloes, euphorbiums, and the like, must
not be watered oftener than once a-week.

In watering these kinds, let care be taken to give but little
at each time, just'sufficient to reach the bottom roots.

It will be an advantage to all these tender plants, both of the
woody, succulent, and other kinds, when the surface-earth in
the pots casually crusts or binds, to stir and loosen it lightly a
small depth.

ADMITTING AIR.

Fresh air should now be admitted to the pines, and all other
plants in the hothouse, at all times when the weather will
permit.

But this, however, must only be done, at this season, when
the sun shines warm, and, the air is quite calm and clear : then
it will be proper to slide some of the glasses open a little way,
in the warmest time of the day, shutting all close if the weather
changes very cold and cloudy, and always in proper time in the
afternoon.

The best time of the day for the admission of fresh air, as
above, is from about ten or twelve, to one, two, or three o'clock :
for the time of opening or shutting the glasses, let the weather
be the guide.

OF KIDNEY-BEANS IN THE HOTHOUSE.

Now plant some more kidney-beans, of the early white, the
dun, and speckled dwarfs, &c, in pots or boxes, and place them
in the. hothouse, to succeed those planted last month; or if
none was then planted, now is a very successful time, superior

126

THE HOTHOUSE,

to the former month, for planting a good hothouse crop ; and
managed as directed in January.

Do not forget to refresh with water those kidney-beans which
were planted last month ; they will require it two or three times
a-week : give also necessary waterings to the young beans ad-
vancing for successive crops.

OF BLOWING ROSES AND OTHER PLANTS EARLY.

You may now, in the beginning of this month, set pots of
roses, hypericum-frutex, Persian lilacs, syringas, and honey,
suckles, &c, in the hothouse, or pots of bulbous roots, carna-
tions, pinks, and double sweet-williams, or pots of any other
desirable flowering plants, either of the shrub or herbaceous
kinds, which you desire, by way of curiosity, to bring to an
early bloom, supplying them, when in growth, with plenty of
water.

Likewise, about the middle and end of the month, may in-
troduce more of the same sort of flowering-plants, to produce
flowers, in regular succession.

Likewise may introduce pots sown with seeds of any desira-
ble annuals, of moderate growth, to flower early, such as mig-
nonette, balsams, ten weeks' stock, scarlet sweet peas, candy-
tuft, virgin stock, lupines, antirrhinums, &c.

MAKING THE FIRES IN THIS DEPARTMENT.

The fires must be still regularly made in the hothouse every
evening, and also in the mornings: and in extremely hard frosts,
must be continued night and day, in a proper regular degree in
strength and heat, as regulated by the thermometer.

In very severe frost, it will be of much advantage if the
glasses of the hothouse are covered every night with mats,
canvass, or shutters, or also in the day, when cloudy and the
frost rigorous.

OF CUCUMBERS IN THE HOTHOUSE.

Where it is desired to raise early cucumbers in the hothouse,
some seed may now be sown, as directed last month, or young
plants planted therein, from any common hotbed. — See Hot-
house for January

EARLY STRAWBERRIES.

Likewise you may now introduce into the hothouse pots of
the scarlet strawberries, either to succeed those of last month,

Mar.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

127

or as a first introduction, as they will fruit in greater perfection
than the former. Let them be one or two years old bearing
plants; place them near the glasses, or plunge them in the
bark-bed, to forward them earlier, giving proper supplies of
water.

If some fresh plants are taken into the hothouse every three
weeks, you may obtain a constant supply of early fruit till those
in the open ground ripen.

Or pots of strawberry plants kept in moderate dung hotbeds
to forward them, some may be removed in successive order into
the hothouse, they will produce a supply of early fruit in regu-
lar succession.

MARCH.

CARE OF EARLY CUCUMBERS AND MELONS.

Examine the state of the cucumber and melon hotbeds, and
see if they are of a proper degree of heat, so as to preserve the
plants in a state of free growth.

You must let the heat be lively, but moderate, by which
means the ridged-out plants of good growth will show fruit
plentifully, and these will swell freely, and grow to a handsome
size.

Therefore, when the heat declines, apply a lining of well-
prepared fresh hot horse-dung to the back or front side of the
bed, as you shall see occasion ; but if the heat is not. very much
declined, it will be proper to line only one side at a time ; but
line the opposite side ten or twelve days after. Make the
linings about twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches wide, and as
high as five or six inches up the sides of the frame ; but gener-
ally narrowing the width towards the top; on which lay two
inches' depth of earth over, to keep the steam down for the
reason mentioned last month.

Let the plants have fresh air every day, by raising the upper
end of the glasses from about half an inch, to one or two inches
in height, in proportion to the heat in the bed, and warmness
of the weather, always more freely in sunny, calm, mild days,
than when cloudy or a sharp external .air ; and when the wea-
ther changes colder, &c, diminish the admission of air, or shut
down the glasses if very cold ; and always shut close in proper

128

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mar.

time towards evening, about three, four, or five o'clock, &c, ac.
cording to the temperature of the weather.

Refresh them now and then with water ; let this be given
very moderately, and in a mild sunny day; the best time for
doing this is from ten to two o'clock.

Cover the glasses with mats every evening for the night, gene-
rally toward sunset, or soon after ; and uncover in the morning
about an hour, at most, after the time of sunrise ; or, if a sunny
morning, as soon as the sun shines fully on the frames.

As the early plants, raised last month, will have now advanced
considerably into fruitful runners, and show fruit abundantly,
especially cucumbers, let the runners or vine be trained out
regularly along the surface of the bed at equal distances, and
peg them down neatly with small hooked sticks ; and according
as the young fruit comes into blossom, do not fail, at this early
season, to set or impregnate the female or fruit blossoms, with
the male flowers, agreeable to the rules and method advised in
the work of April.

SOWING CUCUMBER AND MELON SEED.

Sow in the above, or any new-made hotbeds, the seeds of
cucumbers and melons at the beginning, and also about the
middle, and towards the latter end of this month, to have a sup-
ply of young plants in readiness, either to plant into new beds,
or to supply the place of such plants as may fail.

The sorts of cucumber are, the early short prickly, long green
prickly, white prickly, long green Turkey, long white Turkey,
and Smyrna.

But the, first two sorts are commonly cultivated for the early
and general crop, the short prickly being the earliest, and is
therefore often sown for the first crop in the frames ; but the
long green prickly is the best to sow for a main crop, either for
the frames or hand-glasses, or in the natural ground ; it being
both a plentiful bearer in long continuance, and the fruit attain
the most handsome regular growth, six or eight to ten or twelve
inches in length : but there is a new variety of long prickly
cucumber now in cultivation, growing ten or twelve to fifteen or
eighteen inches long : though, in my idea, those of such extreme
length appear less delicate at table, and not always so well
flavoured as those of middling growth, as above.

The white prickly, and the long Turkey and Smyrna kinds,
are -not eligible for any general crop, because they are very in-
different bearers, so should sow only a few by way of variety

Maii.j

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

129

MAKING NEW HOTBEDS TO TRANSPLANT CUCUMBERS, &c.

Make hotbeds the beginning of this month, to plant the
cucumber or melon plants upon, which were sown the end of
January, or any time in February.

Let the dung for this purpose be well prepared, in the man-
ner directed in the two former months, before you work it up
into a bed ; this should never be omitted, for a great deal de-
pends upon it ; make the bed three feet high, or three and a
half, beating the dung well down with the fork, as you lay it on
the bed : but do not tread it ; for a bed which is trodden hard
is rendered so compact, that it seldom comes to" a kindly
warmth, but is apt to heat too violently, to the destruction of
the plants. When the bed is finished, put on the frame and
lights ; and let it be managed, in every respect, as directed in
January and February ; and let the plants, either cucumbers
or melons, be planted and managed in the manner there
directed.

There are many gardeners, and others, who cannot conveni-
ently procure dung to begin to make hotbeds for cucumbers or
melons at an early season. Where that is the case, it is not too
late to begin now ; and a hotbed may be made the beginning
or any time of the month, and the seeds of cucumbers and
melons may be sown therein ; the cucumbers from this sowing
will be fit to cut by the beginning of May, but will be in full
bearing in the middle or latter end of that month, or June, and
continue fruitful all summei, and the melons in July and
August.

CUCUMBERS AND MELONS FOR THE BELL OR HAND-GLASSES.

About the eighteenth or twentieth, or any time toward the
end of tins month, is the time to begin to sow the cucumbers
and melons winch are to be planted under hand or bell-glasses

Iney may be sown in any of the cucumber hotbeds now at
work; or if not convenient, or there are no such beds yet made
make a hotbed for that purpose, for a one, or two, or three-light
frame, according to the quantity of plants required; sow the
seed, and manage the beds as directed in the two former months
Ine plants will be ready for ridging out the middle or latter end
ot next month, and beginning of May, and the cucumbers will
bear in June and July, and the melons ripen in August, &c.
f 2

130

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

TRANSPLANTING AND SOWING CAULIFLOWERS,

Transplant the cauliflower plants which have stood in frame?
and hand-glasses, or on warm borders, all winter.

Let these be planted in a rich spot of ground. The ground
should be dunged with some good rotten dung, and afterwards
neatly dug or trenched one spade deep ; taking care to bury the
dung in a regular manner, in the bottom of the trenches. Ob-
serve to plant the cauliflowers in rows thirty inches asunder,
allowing them the same distance between plant and plant in the
rows.

The ground where this crop of cauliflowers is to be planted
may be previously sown with spinach and radishes, if thought
necessary, agreeably to the intimations of last month.

Draw some earth to the stems of the cauliflower plants, which
are continued under hand or bell-glasses for the early crop ; it
will strengthen them and forward their growth.

The glasses may still be continued over the plants, but must
be kept constantly raised, on the south side, at least two to
three or four inches high, on props ; or in mild days the glasses
may be taken off occasionally, and let the plants enjoy the
benefit of warm showers of rain.

If there are more than one or two plants under each glass,
let the superabundant be transplanted the beginning or some
time of this month ; for two plants, at most, under a glass, is
sufficient : but if the glasses are small, one plant under each
will be enough.

Plant those which you take from under the glasses into an
open compartment, at the distance above-mentioned.

Where cauliflower plants were raised from seeds sown the
last month, they should now be pricked out into a bed of rich
earth, in a warm situation j but where a moderate hotbed can
be obtained, it will forward them greatly. Make the bed
eighteen inches or two feet high, and put a frame on, or arch it
over with hoops ; lay thereon six inches' depth of rich earth,
prick the plants therein, two or three inches apart, and give them
a little water. Put on the glasses, or a covering of mats, every
night, but take them off every mild day.

By pricking out the plants on a little bottom heat, as above,
it will forward them considerably, fit to transplant for good the
middle or latter end of next month, and they will produce their
heads in July and August.

Cauliflower-seed may be sown the beginning of this month.

Ma».]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

131

ii it was not done in February ; observing to sow them in a slight
hotbed, as was then directed ; it will bring the plants up soon,
and forward them greatly.

N. B. These seeds may be sown in a bed of rich earth, in a
warm situation, in the natural ground ; they will grow freely,
but the plants will not be so forward, by a fortnight,* as if the'
seed was sown on a small hotbed of moderate heat.

The plants from this sowing produce flowers or heads for use
m August.

broccoli. ,

Sow broccoli for early crops, &c, to come in for use the fol-
lowing autumn, in October, November, and December, &c.

Choose seed of the early purple; and some of the cauliflower
broccoli, of each of which sow a little about the first or second
.veek in the month, and some more towards the latter end, in
an open bed of rich earth, and rake them in ; and when 'the
plants come up, manage them as directed in April, Man June
and July, f

TRANSPLANTING AND SOWING CABBAGES.

Transplant cabbage-plants, of all kinds, into the places where
they are to remain to cabbage. It may be done the beginning
or any time this month ; but if the plants are strong and in good
order, the sooner it is now done the better. Let them be
planted in good ground, enriched with dung, at two feet or two
and a half distance for the sugar-loaf and other forward kinds •
but the large late cabbage plants should be set a yard asunder'

The above distances are to be understood of such plants a<-
are to remain to grow to their full size ; but such of the forward
kinds as are to be cut while young may be planted closer-
eighteen mches to two feet will be sufiicient.

Plant out also the general crop of red cabbage, if not done in

tonce"1"' ! them tW° feet a half; 01 a yard dis-

rrir -SeedS °u uabbageS' °f sort' the beginning or
m.ddle of this month, both of early kinds, for successional young
summer cabbages, and large late sorts, for autumn and winter
crops; any of the early kinds may now be sown, either for sue
cessions, or as substitutes in default of early winter-standing

. * Or three weeks

132

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

plants, or for general summer crops ; but the larger sugar-loaf
is a fine kind to sow now ; also the Yorkshire, Battersea, and
imperial, for midsummer and general autumn cabbages; and
sow a quantity of the large, hollow, long-sided, and large round
cabbages, for late autumn and general winter use in large full
growth : let the whole be sown in an open compartment, each
sort separate. — 'See May and June, &c.

The plants raised from this sowing, if planted out in proper
time, will, many of them, in the early sorts, be cabbaged in small
heads in June and July, but will be well cabbaged in August
and September, especially the sugar-loaf, Battersea, and York-
shire kinds ; but the large sorts not till September and October
and continue good all the winter.

Red-cabbage seed should also be sown in the beginning or
middle of this month, to raise some plants for winter and next
spring service : they will be tolerably cabbaged about Michael-
mas, and continue good till the spring.

The red-cabbage seed should be of the true Dutch kind.

In sowing the different sorts of cabbage-seeds, it will be most
advisable to sow them in open exposed ground, distant from
trees, fences, or buildings : for when sown in such close situa-
tions, as is very often practised, the plants are drawn up weak
and long-shanked, and are liable to be eaten by vermin.

SOWING SAVOYS.

Savoy-seed for a principal crop, to serve the family from
about Michaelmas to Christmas, should be sown about the
middle, or towards the latter end of the month, in an open
situation.

But if it is desired to have savoys well cabbaged earlier in
autumn, that is, in the end of August, or any time in Septem-
ber, they should be sown in February, or at least the first week
of this mouth.

Sow this seed in an open spot, and not in narrow borders,
under walls, &c, for the reason intimated above, in sowing cab-
bages.

The sorts of savoys are, the green, yellow, and white ; but
the green kind is to be preferred for the main crop,*

TRANSPLANTING AND SOWING LETTUCE.

Transplant, if settled mild weather, some of the lettuce
plants from the beds or borders, where they have stood all
* The true Cape savoy is the best.

Mar.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

133

winter ; that is, if they stand too close. In doing this, observe
to draw the plants out regularly, and let the strongest remain
in the bed or border, at ten or twelve inches' distance ; then
loosen the surface of the earth between them with a hoe, and
clear away weeds and litter.

The plants which are drawn out should be planted in an
open spot of rich ground, ten or twelve inches' distance, and let
them be watered.

And the Cos lettuce plants that have stood all winter in
frames should now, in general, be transplanted into an open
spot, at the distance above-mentioned.

Lettuce-seed, of different sorts, should be sown the beginning
of this month ; and to have a regular supply, let some more be
sown about the middle, and a third sowing about the end of the
month ; and from these sowings you will have a principal sup-
ply of lettuce, in young and full growth, in May, June, and
July ; which will be succeeded by others sown in April, &c.

The proper sorts of lettuce to sow at this time are, the white
and green Cos for principal crops : the large imperial, the Cili-
cia, grand admirable, and large white Dutch cabbage-lettuces,
are also all most excellent sorts for this sowing, where variety
of superior lettuces are required ; but any other sort will also
succeed ; and may also now sow some common cabbage-lettuce,
to cut young for salads, till the others are advanced to larger
growth.

These different sorts of lettuce should generally be sown
separate in beds, borders, or any compartment of ground, in an
open situation ; and in digging the ground, let the earth be
well broken. Sow the seeds on the surface with an even hand,
and rake them in lightly, taking care not to draw the earth in
heaps.

Or some Cos lettuce, &c, may be sown thinly among the
crops of onions, leeks, and carrots; some for transplanting, and
others to remain for full growth.

In sowing lettuce, it is of much importance to have seed of
good sorts, such as will not soon run ; as we may often observe
lettuce-plants that spindle up for seed before they attain half-
growth, or begin to head, or cabbage, which is a great disap-
pointment.

SOWING SPINACH.

Sow spinach to succeed that sown last month •. the sowings
should be repeated once a fortnight, or three weeks, to have a

134

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mas.

regular supply; for the plants of one sowing, in spring and
summer, will not continue fit for use longer than that time, be-
fore they will run. Let the seed be of the round-leaved or
smooth-seeded kind, that being the most proper sort to sow at
this season, its leaves being considerably thicker and larger than
the prickly-seeded spinach.

Spinach may now be sown to great advantage, in single drills,
between the rows of pease or beans, as directed last month.

Hoe or hand-weed the early crops of spring spinach, thinning
the plants at the same time, but particularly those sown broad-
cast, three or four to five or six inches' distance.

The crop of winter spinach, which was sown last autumn,
will now be advancing in good perfection for use, and should
now be kept clear from weeds, and the ealth between the plants
stirred with a hoe ; and in gathering the plants for use, if they
stand close, should thin them out clean by the roots; but if
they already stand at wide distances, only crop the large outer
leaves as wanted, till they begin to run, then cut them up clean
to the bottom.

SOWING ONIONS AND LEEKS.

Onions and leeks for principal crops may be sown any time
this month, and the earlier in the month the better, provided
the state of the ground and the weather be favourable. It is-
however, advisable, in some situations, where the soil is natu-
rally heavy and wet, to defer sowing till the end of the month,
or even till the beginning of April.— For directions, see last
month.

May occasionally sow a thin sprinkling of the Cos lettuce
seed with that of the onions and leeks.

SEA-CABBAGE.

Sea-cabbage, or sea-colewort, if in request, should now be
sown. Choose a light loose soil, and being properly digged,
form it into one or more beds, four feet and a half or five feet
wide, with wide alleys between ; sowing the seed either in drills
longways, the beds a foot and a half or two feet asunder, for the
plants, either to remain or to transplant ; or sow broad-cast
wholly for transplanting that distance, in June, July, or follow-
ing spring, in beds, as above. — See April.

And when the plants are of one or two years' growth, the
beds being previously earthed up a few inches in winter, the)
produce from the root thick fleshy shoots, which, passing through

Mab.1 the kitchen garden. 135

a body of soil on the beds, are thereby blanched white and ten-
der, of delicate eating, in proper culinary preparation.

The plants are perennial ; the leaves decay in winter ; but
the roots remain, and produce a succession of young shoots, in
the advancing flower stalk and young leaves, in the springs
being the principal edible parts of this kind of cabbage, which
never heads, the advanced leaves spreading flat near the ground.

At the commencement of winter, clear away the old leaves,
weeds, and litter, loosen the tops of the beds, and then either
from the alleys between, or elsewhere, apply a stratum of light
loose earth on the beds, a few inches thick, or occasionally some
dry, rotted, light, mellow dung ; and the plants shooting up in
the spring, through this body of soil, the shoots will be long,
white, and tender, and should be gathered for use when rising
through the surface, or soon after cutting them off within the
ground.— See April.

SOWING BORECOLE.

Any time m this month you may sow some borecole for the
service of autumn, winter, and next spring.

There are two principal sorts, the green and the brown ; both
very hardy plants of the large open colewort kind, with tall
stems, and full heads of thick fimbriate curled leaves not cab-
baging, and are desirable open greens for winter, &c.

Let this seed be sown in an open exposure, distant from trees
and close fences, as in such situations they are apt to draw up
too fast, with long weak stalks ; sow it broad-cast, and rake it
in evenly : for other particulars, see the succeeding months.

RADISHES.

Sow more radish-seed, to raise a supply of radishes to sue- '
ceed those sown last month.

There should be some of this seed, both of the salmon ana
short-top kind, sown at three different times this month ; that
is, at the beginning, middle, and latter end ; by which means
there will be a due succession of young radishes for the table.
Let this seed be sown now, in an open compartment, observing
the same method as in the two preceding months.

Thin the early and general crops of radishes, where the plants
stand too close, pulling up the worst, and leaving the best
plants about two inches' distance, and clear them from weeds,
thinning them more afterwards by degrees, in their advanced
growth, in drawing them for the table.

136

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

In dry, open, warm weather, let the early crops of radishes
be sometimes moderately watered, to forward them in a free
swelling growth, mild and crisp for eating.

TURNIP-ROOTED RADISHES.

Now sow some small round or Indian turnip-rooted radishes ;
there are two sorts, the white and the red, but the white is pre-
ferable to sow for the general supply; it grows small, neatly
orbicularly round, like a young Dutch turnip, but delicately
smaller, and eats very agreeably in April, May, and June, or
any time in summer and autumn. — ■■See next month.

Let the seed of both sorts be sown separately, in an open
space of light ground, and rake them in evenly.

When the plants have the first central rough leaves haif an
inch broad, thin them to about two or three inches.

CARROTS AND PARSNEPS.

Sow carrots and parsneps the beginning of this month for the
principal crop ; that is, if they were not sown the latter end of
February.

A spot of light ground, in an open situation, should be chosen
for these seeds, for the roots thrive considerably best in such a
soil and situation.

The ground should be trenched one good spade deep at least,
or rather double dig it. Observe, in digging, to take but thin
spits, and be careful to break all clods, that the roots may have
full liberty to run down long and straight ; for if the earth is
not well divided or separated, the sorts are apt to grow both
short and forked.

The seeds may either be sown broad-cast all over the surface,
or may previously divide the ground into four or five feet wide
beds ; however, in either method, sow the seeds thinly, with an
even hand, and rake them in ; but, previous to raking, observe,
that if the ground be quite light and dry, the seed may be first
trodden in evenly ; in doing which, take care to tread the
ground over lightly and regular, with the feet pretty close toge-
ther ; then let the seed be immediately raked in moderately.
By this method the seed will be buried equally in every part,
and the plants will also come up regularly.

But, in sowing those seeds, it will be proper to observe, that
where the ground is inclinable, to be wet, or apt to bind, it will,
in that case, be proper to divide it into beds four or five feet
vide, with narrow alleys, about a spade wide between;- then

Mac]

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137

sow the seed. Do not, however, tread the ground as above ;
but only stand in the alleys, and rake the seed in regularly,
taking particular care not to draw the earth in heaps.

Or in sowing these seeds in gardens, it may be effected by
first raking the ground as you advance in the digging; then
forming the ground into four feet wide beds, shove the earth off-
the surface with the back of the rake, half an inch or an inch
deep ; sow the seed, and rake the earth over it, as observed in
sowing onions, &c, which see.* '

OF FORKING AND DRESSING THE ASPARAGUS BEDS.

This is now the time to begin to spring-dress asparagus beds,
which is done by forking or slightly digging them with a three-
pronged fork.

This work should be begun about the middle or latter end of
the month.

For the purpose of digging or forking these beds, you should
be provided with a proper fork, having three short tines, six to
eight or nine inches long, perfectly fiat, and about an inch
broad, and the ends of them rounded and blunt ; however, in
want of such, it may be performed with a small, short-pronged
common dung-fork.

In forking the beds, be careful to loosen every part to a mo-
derate depth, but taking great care not to go too deep to wound
the crowns of the roots.

The above work of forking these beds is most necessary to
be done every spring, to improve and loosen the ground, and to
give free liberty for the buds to shoot up ; also to give free
access to the sun, air, and showers of rain.

The beds being forked, they must afterwards be raked even ;
observing, if you do not rake them immediately after they are
forked, to defer it no longer than the end of this month, or first
or second week in April, for by that time the buds will begin to
advance towards the surface.

* In sowing carrots and parsneps, as well as almost every other sort of crop, we
consider the drill-system greatly preferable to solving broadcast or in beds, as afford-
ing an opportunity of cleansing them much more expeditiously, and of stirring the
surface of the ground with the Dutch hoe between the rows, which greatly pro-
motes the growth of the plants. Drills for carrots should be fifteen inches apart ;
and for parsneps, eighteen inches. The sort of carrots which we prefer fur a gene-
ral crop are the Altnugliam and Long-red. We consider the end of the mouth
early enough for sowing a principal crop.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mas.

PLANTING ASPARAGUS.

New plantations of asparagus may now be made, this being
the proper season to remove these plants ; but it may be done
any time in the month, when the weather is mild.

In making plantations of these plants, one great article to be-
considered is, to make choice of a proper soil ; choose the best
the garden affords ; it must not be wet, nor too strong or stub-
born, but such as is moderately light and pliable, so as it will
readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, &c, and in a situation
that enjoys the full sun.

The ground where you intend to make new asparagus beds
should have a large supply of rotten or other good dung laid
several inches thick, and the ground then regularly trenched
one or two spades, and the dung buried equally in each trench,
twelve or fifteen inches below the surface of the dug ground.

The ground being dug, and laid level, divide it into beds
four feet and a half wide, with alleys two feet wide between bed
and bed.

Pour rows of asparagus are to be planted in each bed, and
ten or twelve inches' distance to be allowed between plant ant
plant in the row : and let the outside rows of each bed be ninr
inches from the edge.

Next, let it be observed, that the plants for this plantation
consist now entirely of roots, no top ; ' they must not be more
than two years old ; but most good gardeners prefer those that
are only one year, which are what I would choose to plant ; as
from experience I have found they generally take root much
freer, and succeed every way better than two years old plants.
If you choose to raise the plants yourself, it is done by sowing
the seed any time this month in a bed of rich earth (see page
140) ; and they will be proper for planting out next spring ; or,
if you do not choose to lose a year or two in waiting for rais-
ing the plants, you may purchase them, ready raised, of most
kitchen gardeners near large towns, and in many of the large
nurseries in most parts of the country. They are commonly
sold at a shilling to eighteenpence or two shillings per hundred.

The following is the method of planting them : —

Strain your line lengthways the beds, nine inches from the
edge : then with a spade cut out a small trench or drill close to
the line, about six inches deep, making that side next the line
nearly upright j and when one trench is opened, plant that be-

Mae.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

139

fore you open another, placing the plants upright ten or twelve
inches' distance in the row.

In planting these plants, observe, they must not be placed
flat in the bottom of the trench, but nearly upright against the
back of the trench or drill, and so that the crown of the plants
may also stand upright, and two or three inches below the sur-
face of the ground ; and let them be all placed an equal depth,
spreading their roots somewhat regular against the back of the
trench, and at the same time drawing a little earth up against
them with the hand as you place them, just to fix the plants in
their due position, till the row is planted ; then when one row
is thus planted, immediately, with a rake, draw the earth into
the drill over the plants, and then proceed to open another drill
or trench as before directed : plant it in the same manner, and
cover in the plants as above, and so on till the whole is planted.
When they are all planted, let the surface of the beds be raked
smooth, and clear them from stones.

At each corner of every bed, let a firm stake be driven into
the ground, to serve as a mark for the alleys.

In planting asparagus, it is customary, with such gardeners
as are obliged to make the most of every spot of ground, to
sow a thin crop of onions the first year on the new asparagus
beds : and this should be performed before the beds are raked
sowing the seeds, and raking them in ; and thus a crop of onion?
may also be obtained without hurting the- asparagus, provided
the onions are not suffered to grow just about the plants.

The asparagus being planted, the next care is, when the
plants come up, which will be about the latter end of next
month, or beginning of May, to keep them clean from weeds ;
which must be well attended to during the summer season. —
For the farther management, see the work of summer, and Oc-
tober and November, and the article, Of dressing the Beds, in
this month, page 137.

Let it next be observed, that it will be three years from the
time of planting before the asparagus plants produce buds large
enough to cut for use in any general gathering ; though some-
times, in rich, good ground, and a remarkably prosperous
growth in the plants in the production of strong shoots, a few
of the largest may be cut the second spring after planting ; but
I should advise to let it be the third or fourth year before you
make a general cutting.

A plantation of asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed
every year, as directed in the spring and autumn months,

140

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mar.

Will continue to produce good buds ten or twelve years, or
more.

In making new plantations of asparagus, I have sometimes,
instead of putting in young plants, as above directed, sown the
seed at once in the beds where the plants are to remain ; and
as by that practice the plants are not disturbed by a removal,
they consequently cannot fail of producing a regular crop.

The beds to be four feet and a half wide, and prepared as
before directed for the plants s mark out four lines lengthways
the beds ; when along these lines, at the distance of every nine
or ten inches, dot in a few seeds, covering them about an inch
deep. When the plants have been come up some time, they
must be thinned, leaving only one of the strongest in each place j
and carefully clear them from weeds.

A plantation of asparagus, thus raised, will produce buds fit
to cut the fourth spring after sowing, but will be very large and
fine the fifth year.

As to the method of gathering or cutting asparagus, when
advanced to proper growth for the table, it is generally most
eligible to be furnished with a saw-edged asparagus knife, hav-
ing a straight, narrow, taper blade, about six or eight inches
long, and about an inch broad at the haft, narrowing to about
half an inch at the point, which should be rounded off from the
back, and the edge made full of small teeth like a saw ; then
observing, when the shoots are from about two to three or four
inches high, they should be then cut, slipping the knife down
perpendicularly close to- each shoot, and cut it off slantingly
about three or four inches within the ground, taking great care
not to wound any young buds coming up from the same root ;
for there are always several shoots advancing therefrom in dif-
ferent stages of growth.

Plant asparagus for forcing. — See February,

SOWING ASPARAGUS SEED.

This is now the season to sow asparagus seed, to raise plants,
to make new plantations as above, or to raise plants for forcing
in hotbeds.

This seed should be sown in the beginning or middle of the
month, on four feet wide beds of rich earth. Sow it broad-cast
on the surface, then rake it well into the ground, and cast some
of the earth out of the alleys evenly over the beds, and rake
them smooth : or it may be sown in drills an inch deep, and
six inches asunder: the plants will come up in a month or six

Mar.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

141

weeks, when give occasional watering, in very dry weather, to
strengthen and forward their growth ; and they must be kept
very clean from weeds by a careful hand-weeding at different
times in the summer.

They will be fit to plant out for good next spring.-^-See the
article for Planting Asparagus in this month, page 138, &c.

When asparagus for forcing is intended to be planted out
into beds of natural earth, to acquire a proper growth for that
occasion, see that article in the work of February,

SOWING BEETS.

Beets may now be sown for a full crop, if not done last
month.

All the different sorts mentioned in February may still be
sown successfully ; the red for its root, and the other sorts for
their leaves, allotting them an open situation ; and, for the red
beet particularly, good mellow ground, that its root may attain
a proper large growth. Sow each sort separate, in the order
advised last month.*

SPRING-DRESSING OF ARTICHOKES.

Make a general dressing of artichokes about the middle or
latter end of this- month.

Where the ground has been trenched up, and laid over these
plants last month, to protect them from frosts, let it now be
levelled down, especially if the plants have begun to shoot
tolerably strong ; otherwise defer it till next month ; observing^
as you proceed in levelling down, to dig and loosen all the
ground about the plants: at the same time examine the number
of shoots or suckers arising on each stock or root, selecting two
or three of the strongest outward ones on every stool to remain,
and all above that number to be slipped off close with your
hand ; observing, in performing this work, to open the earth
deep enough about each stock or root, that you may readily get
to slip the superabundant shoots off clean from the place from
whence they arise ; minding, as above, to leave at least two or
three good shoots, but never more than three, upon each root
or stock, closing the earth in again about the root, and also
about the young plants, pressing it close about them with your
hand.

The shoots which are slipped off will do to make fresh plan-
tations, where wanted; for artichokes are increased by planting
« Tlie first week of April is early enough to son- red beet for q general crop.

142

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mai

the young shoots, and by no other method ; and this and next
month is the season to do it. — See as below.

PLANTING ARTICHOKES.

Where a plantation of artichokes is intended, let them be
planted as soon in the month as you can procure good plants ;
otherwise defer it till April ; observing that those suckers slip-
ped off in spring-dressing the old plants, as above directed, are
the proper sets for this purpose.

There are two sorts, the large globe artichoke, and the French
or green oval artichoke ; but the former is greatly preferable to
plant for the general supply, the heads being considerably larger,
and the eatable parts more thick and fleshy.

They should be planted in an open situation, and in good
ground ; also let a good quantity of rotten dung be spread over
the piece, and dig it in. And, having provided some best well-
rooted suckers, as above, trim any straggling parts of the top
and root ; then plant them with a dibble, in rows a yard and a
half asunder, and two feet, or not more than a yard distant in
the row. Give them directly some water, to settle the earth
properly about the roots, &c.

The above plantation, if kept clear from weeds, and now and
then watered, in dry weather, in the beginning of the summer,
will yield good artichokes the following autumn, but will pro-
duce more abundantly next year in June, or July, and August,
&c.

Note. You may sow a small crop of lettuce, radishes, or
spinach, &c, the first year, between the rows of the artichokes.

A plantation of artichokes will continue to produce good
heads five or six years, and sometimes longer ; but it must be
observed, that if required to have a succession of these fruits
for four or five months in the summer, should make a small
plantation every spring ; for the old stocks which have been
planted a year or two, produce heads in June, or July, and
August ; and those planted now, produce heads the same year,
in August, and September, and October.

PLANTING BEANS.

Plant beans of any kind, for all sorts succeed well from this
time of planting ; and should now plant full supplies of the best
sorts for general principal crops.

This is still a proper time to plant the Windsor, Toker, and
Sandwich, and also the long-podded bean, which is a very great

Mar.] the kitchen garden. 143

bearer. And the smaller kind of beans may also be planted
any time this month, being plentiful bearers, and very sweet
eating while young : among which the white-blossom kind is a
very full bearer, and a peculiarly fine eating bean.

There should be some of the most approved of the above
sorts put into the ground every fortnight, which will afford a
regular supply of young beans during the principal season of
them.

Plant the large kind of beans in rows a yard asunder, and the
lesser kinds thirty inches between the rows. But if it is in-
tended to plant savoys or cabbage plants between them the
rows in general, for all the sorts, should be a full yard asunder.

SOWING PEAS, &c.

Sow marrowfat peas once a fortnight, or three weeks at far-
thest ; by which means you will have a constant supply of
young peas for the table. :

Or, in sowing' peas, it is a good rule, when the plants of a
former sowing are just coming up, to sow another crop of the
same sort for succession, and they will succeed the others in
regular order of full bearing.

Any of the larger or smaller kinds of peas, as are mentioned
in the former months, may be sown now for general full crops
allowing the distance of a fortnight, or thereabouts, between
each sowing. _ Draw drills for the different kinds of peas at the
distance mentioned in February, for the different sorts ; and sow

halfdeefi ^ °°Ver them 6arth ab°Ut an inch and a

nofSh S°riS °if PeaS SlTld n°W be SOwn in °Pe» situations,
not much under low spreading trees.f

* Or from two to throe inches deep.
This may be done a few days e„ lie' or ater SrofcS to'tS" <e"4 °/ ,this ,nont1'-

cularly, to a sufficient depth in vfhUtoS ,™n' cut iE nff P"Pendi-

vl« m<\lles aPart in «>« rows. The rows should hi ?ti». ? . ab ut a foot or
little nne leaf-mould around each natch I S. „„ ■ H 1 T {a,ct separate. Lay a
to the ground than they were befo?7 f A™f nr^L 7'° '-e p ant * a Uttle <"<*P«
fine with the spade, and lly ft ca refui 7,f„ t^h? nhnt ' m$^' brrak the ™<*l
good plan to stake each row «= it f«WlLIPl f Plants. To save treading, it is a
tew spruce bnS4TSm»terS^^f^^^,*»a,elI, on eai* ^ * *
v.eather becomes more nS ™ P Umts are *6W«ie« a«a the

144

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mab.

EARTHING PEAS. AND BEANS, AND STICKING PEAS.

Draw earth to the stems of such peas and beans as are now
up some height ; it will strengthen the plants greatly, and will
encourage their growth.

Stick peas, where intended, according as the different crops
advance in growth, six or eight inches high.

TURNIPS.

Sow turnips for a first early full crop about the middle, or
towards the latter end of this month, in an open situation, and
where the ground is light.

Note. Turnips may be sown at the beginning of the month,
if required : but those which are sown so early are apt to run
up for seed, before they apple, or bulb of any considerable size
in the root.

The proper sort to sow now is principally the early Dutch
turnip, it being the best sort to sow at this season in gardens,
hut especially for the first and second crops, or also occasion-
ally for general summer crops, in garden culture.

CELERY.

If celery was not sown last month, let some seed be sown
the beginning of this, to plant out in May and June, &c, for an
early crop ; sow some more of the same seed about the middle,
or towards the latter end, for the principal crop. The seed
should be sown in a bed or border of mellow rich earth, sowing
it on the surface moderately thick, and cover it in lightly with
fine mould, not more than a quarter of an inch ; or you may
rake it in with a light and even hand. Water the bed fre-
quently in dry weather.

Let it be observed, there are two sorts of celery ; one known
by the name of Italian or upright celery, the other called cele-
riac, or turnip-rooted celery. The first is that which is com-
monly cultivated for the general crops, and of which there are
two varieties, viz. common upright celery, with hollow stalks,
and solid-stalked celery ; both of which being raised from seed
sown as above, are afterwards planted in trenches for blanching
their stalks, which are the principal useful parts ; but the cele-
riac is generally cultivated for its swelling bottom part; and
being planted either on level ground, or in shallow drills

Mae.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

145

the roots of it swell like a turnip. — See April, May, June,
&c*

SMALL SALAD ING.

Small salading, such as cresses, mustard, radish, rape, and
turnip, should, when a constant supply is wanted, be sown once
a week or fortnight, in a warm border ; observing to draw some
flat shallow drills, three inches asunder, sow the seeds therein,
each sort separate, and cover them lightly with fine earth.

For the particular method of sowing these seeds, see the
work of last month : and when the plants begin to come up, if
the earth cake, so as they cannot rise freely, let the surface be
lightly whisked with the hand, or break the surface gently with,
a light rake, as is there mentioned.

If these young herbs are attacked with a hoar frost appear-
ing on them in the morning, and, if a sunny warm day is advanc-
ing, let them be watered to wash it off before the sun comes on
them, which will prevent them turning black and spoiling.'

PURSLANE.

Purslane, if required early for salads, &c, should be sown
the beginning of this month in a hotbed. Make the bed slight ;
put a frame on, and earth the bed four or five inches thick ;
sow the seed on the surface, and cover it about a quarter of an
inch with light earth.

Or, where only a moderate supply is wanted, may sow some
in two or three largish pots, and placed in a cucumber or any
other hotbed now in cultivation.

This seed may be sown in a bed of rich earth, under hand-
glasses, about the middle or latter end of the month.

SOWING CHERVIL AND CORIANDER.

Sow chervil and coriander, for soups and salads, &c. : draw shal
low drills for these seeds eight or nine inches asunder : sow each
sort separate, and cover them about half an inch deep with earth.

These herbs are all to remain where sown, and the chief cul-
ture they require is to be kept clear from weeds ; but as the plants
soon run up for seed, should sow a small portion every month.

* The white and red solid stalked celery are the sorts which we prefer— the former
for an early supply, and the latter, being the more hardy, for the winter and spring.
We would recommend celery, particularly, for an early supply, always to be raised
upon a slight hotbed, and when two or three inches Ugh, to be pricked out upon
anot.ier slight bed, till ready for planting out into the ridges. When this practice
is carefully attended to, good plants will always be had, and will seldom run to
seed before fit for use, as is otherwise often the case. x

G

ue

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mae.

SOWING PARSLEY.

Pabsley, if not sown last month, maybe sown in a single
drill along the edge of the quarters, or borders of the garden :
it will make a useful and also a neat edging, if not suffered to
grow rank, especially the curled parsley ; or if large supplies
are wanted for market, it may be sown in continued rows nine
inches asunder, or upon the general surface, and trod down, and
raked in.

SOWING BASIL.

Basil is in some families, used as a soup and salad herb : it
is a tender plant, of bushy growth. It is raised from seed : and
the middle, or latter end of this month, or in April, is the season
to sow it, and the plants will be ready for planting out in May.

But for the greater certainty of success, it will be advisable
to sow it in a slight hotbed, and in dry earth ; otherwise the
seed will rot ; and be careful to defend it from wet till the plants
are come up.

They are to be planted out in a warm border, &c, in May,
and managed as directed for capsicums : see page 147.

SOWING AND PLANTING VARIOUS SORTS OF POT AND MEDICAL
HERBS.

The seeds of dill, fennel, borage, burnet, bugloss, sorrel, mari-
gold, orach, and clary, together with the seeds of all other herbs
of the like kinds, may be' sown any time in thib month, in a bed
or border of common earth separately, and rake them in ; most
of which may remain where sown if the plants are properly
thinned ; or some, as burnet, sorrel, fennel, colary, marigolds,
borage, may be planted out in beds a foot asunder, in May,
June, and July.

Plant offset rooted slips of mint, balm, burnet, tarragon,
tansey, pennyroyal, feverfew, and camomile.

In taking off the slips of these plants, be careful to preserve
some root to each ; plant them nine or ten inches distance from
each other, in beds of rich earth.

Sow hyssop, thyme, savory, and sweet-marjorum, at the be-
ginning; but they succeed very well if sown anytime in this
month. These seeds should be sown separately in beds of rich
light earth, and raked in ; or may also be sown in shallow
drills, six inches asunder, covering them on with fine earth a
quarter or half an inch deep, or some may be sown in a single

Mae.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

drill along the edges of borders, &c., where the plants will make
useful edgings, particularly thyme and savory, or also hyssop
occasionally ; as these sorts continue all the year ; the sweet
marjoram only one summer, and may now be sown for an edg-
ing in that season.

These plants may either remain where sown, or may be trans-
planted, for which purpose they will be fit in June : but if they
remain where sown, they should at the above time be thinned
to five or six inches' distance, and those which are drawn out
may be planted in other beds, &c, six inches asunder.

But those which are sown for edgings need not be thinned.

Plant branch-slips or cuttings of sage, hyssop, thyme, and
savory, any time this month. ,»

Plant all the sorts in a shady border, five or six inches apart ;
they will take root in a short time, and will make good plants
in three or four months, if you water them in dry weather ; and
in September they will be strong and well rooted, and may then
be transplanted at proper distances in beds of rich earth.

ROSEMARY, RUE, Sec.

Plant slips or cuttings of rosemary, rue, wormwood, and
lavender.

It must be also observed, in planting the cuttings of these
plants, that principally the young outward shoots produced last
year are to be chosen for planting, from about five or six, to
eight, nine, or ten inches long, according as they occur, observ-
ing to slip or cut them clean off to the parts from whence they
proceed.

Let these- be planted in a shady border, six inches apart ; in-
serted two-thirds their lengths into the ground ; they will take
root freely, by observing to water them in dry weather ; they
may be transplanted into a more open situation about Michael-
mas, when they will be well, rooted.

Or, if any rooted offset shoots or suckers rise immediately
from or near the roots of the old plants, these are particularly
eligible for planting.

SOWING NASTURTIUMS.

Nasturtiums are often used in families'; their flowers and
young leaves for salads, the flowers also to garnish dishes, and
their green berries to pickle.

This is now a good time to sow them ; and the sooner in the
month, the better.

148

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mae.

Observe, that, as of the nasturtium there is the major and
minor, the former being of large running growth ; and the most
productive, is the proper sort for this occasion.

A drill must be drawn for them, as it is practised for peas ;
the seeds must be dropped into the drill two or three inches
asunder, and be covered an inch deep with earth.

When the plants are come up about six inches high, they
should have sticks placed for them to run upon : for these plants
are of the running kind ; or, to have a more firm support, may
sow them near hedges, rails, or any other fence.

CIVES, OR CHIVES.

Cives, a small species of onion, growing in large tufts, are
useful in a family in the spring, &c, as a substitute for young
onions, both in salads and culinary purposes ; they are propa-
gated by slipping the roots, and this is a proper time to plant
them ; the method is to part or take off some slips from the old
roots, several small offsets together, and plant them in beds or
Dorders, about six to eight or nine inches' distance.

In slipping or parting the above roots, observe to preserve
eight or ten of the small bulbs together in a cluster, and in that
manner to plant them.

They are to be planted with a dibble, making holes for them
at the distance above mentioned, putting one cluster of roots,
as above, in each hole, and closing the earth well about them.
They will soon take root, and increase very fast into large
bunches, of many years' duration.

MINT.

This is now a good time to make new plantations of mint.

This plant is propagated either by parting the roots, or by
rooted slips of the young spring plants, taken up with root fibres
at the bottom ; also by cuttings of the young stalks next month,
and May, &c, but at this season the increasing it by slips, or
parting the roots, is most generally practised,, and the method
is this : —

About the middle, or any time this month, have recourse to
such old beds of mint as are well stocked with young spring
plants, and there slip and draw up a due quantity of the best
shoots properly rooted ; draw them up gently, and with the
help of your knife at times, to raise or separate them ; every
plant will rise with tolerably good roots.

Having procured the plants, let them be planted in rows

Mae.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

149

about six inches asunder, and five or six inches distant in the
rows, and let them have immediately a tolerable watering, to
settle the earth close about the roots-

The method of propagating mint by roots is this ; get a
quantity of old roots, and lei these be parted in a proper man-
ner ; then draw drills with a hoe six inches asunder; place the
roots in the drills, cover them about an inch deep with the earth,
and then rake the ground.

But when the above mentioned is to be practised, the roots
should be procured, and planted either in February or the be-
ginning of this month, or in October or November.

These plants will thrive in almost any soil or situation ; they
will quickly take root, and grow freely for plentiful use the en-
suing summer, &c, and the same roots continue many years,
producing a crop annually.

CAPSICUMS.

Sow capsicums ; the seed-pods of these plants, being of a hot
spicy quality, are much esteemed for pickling, and some culinary
uses: the large podded kinds are best; but any of the sorts
may be used. — See the Catalogue of Plants.

They are tender plants, and the seeds require to be sown in
a hotbed under frames, &c, about the middle or towards the
latter end of this month ; and when the plants appear, let them
have a large portion of free air, and water them frequently. In
the middle or latter.end of May they will be fit to transplant,
which must be into beds of rich earth in the common ground.
— See the work of April and May.

But they should be first pricked out from the seed-bed the
next month, into another slight hotbed, three or four inches
asunder, to forward and strengthen their growth more effectu-
ally, for transplanting finally in May; or in default of a hotbed
for this purpose, may prick them out on a warm border, the
latter end of April or early in May ; and either defend the bed
with frames, &c, or arched over and covered of nights and bad
weather with mats ; and the whole may afterwards be readily
transplanted with balls of earth to the roots, into the places
where they are finally to remain. — See May and June.

SOWING LOVE-APPLES.

About the middle or latter end of this month is the time to
sow tomatoes, or love-apple seeds ; the fruit or apples of these
plants are, in some families, much used in soups, and are also

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THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mae

often used to pickle, both when young and green, and when at
full growth and ripe maturity.

The fruit, when ripe, is of a beautiful red colour.

The plants are tender ; and the seed must be sown in a slight
notbed, treating the plants as directed above for capsicums. .

For the further management of them, see the Kitchen Gar-
den for May.

GARLIC, SHALLOTS, AND SCALLIONS.

Plant garlick and shallots : let these be planted in the man-
ner mentioned in the former month ; and the sooner they are
planted now the better.

The keeping old onions, which begin to shoot in the house,
may be planted in the garden, four or five inches asunder, where
they will soon take root, and shoot up freely, and will serve to
pull up for scallions.

SCORZONERA, SKIRRETS, AND SALSAFY.

Sow scorzonera and salsafy where required, if not done in
February, and also skirrets ; let these seeds be sown thin on
separate beds, in an open situation, and raked in ; or in drills
six inches asunder.

They are to remain in the places where sown, observing to
thin them to six or eight inches' distance each way.
; Note— The skirrets may also be propagated' by slips from the
sides of any remaining old roots, planting them at six or eight
inches' distance.

All these plants are esteemed for their long fleshy roots for
boiling, being in perfection in autumn, &c. But the salsafy is
m most estimation, both for its root and the top spring shoots
of old plants — See last and next month.*

LARGE-ROOTED, PARSLEY.

Sow the seeds of Hamburgh, or large rooted parsley, if they
were not sown the former month.

This is cultivated for its large parsnep-like root : let the seeds
be sown in an open situation, either in shallow drills, or on the
surface, and raked in evenly ; when the plants are two or three
inches in growth, they must be thinned to six inches' distance,
that the roots may have room to swell.

• We consider the tot week of April early enough for sowing tliese for a prind-

Mar.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

151

KIDNEY-BEANS.

Kidney-beans of the early dwarfs may be planted towards
the end of this month, if the weather is settled in mild and dry,
and the ground not wet ; they being tender, both in the seed
and plants, should plant only a small portion at this time, in a
dry south border of light mellow earth, close under some warm
wall.* — See Kitchen Garden, April.

Draw small neat drills for them about an inch deep, and two
feet asunder ; or may draw a single drill close along the bottom
of the wall.

Place the beans in the drills only one or two inches apart,
at this early sowing ; and earth them in not more than an inch
deap. — See April.

Or may sow some seed in a slender hotbed, or thick in pots
placed in any hotbed now in cultivation, about the end of the
month, for transplanting into warm borders the middle or latter
end of April, &c.

Sow more kidney-beans in a hotbed or hot-house, &c, to
continue therein a regular supply of the early crops to succeed
those of the two former months, observing the same methods as
there directed.

CARDOONS.

Sow cardoons in the middle or latter end of this month for
transplanting : dig a bed of light earth in a free situation ; sow
the seed thin, and rake it in evenly ; the plants will come up
in two or three weeks j and in May or June, &c, must be trans-
planted finally in an open situation, four or five feet asunder.

But observe when the plants have been come up in the seed-
bed about a fortnight or three weeks, they should be thinned
where they are too thick, leaving them five or six inches asunder,
that they may have room to grow without drawing each other
up weak.

They will be pretty strong and fit to plant out in June. — See
the work of that month.

POTATOES.

Potatoes may now be planted any time in open weather ; but
about the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, is a
proper time to begin that work for the principal crops.

ri*iS"of aT aT 5 ar° n6VeI' S0Wn iu Scotlau<1 m th« natural ground before the be

162

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Mab.

These roots thrive best in a moderately light or loose soil,
and where it is not wet ; and if you add some dung, it will be
a great advantage.

In planting potatoes, be careful to procure some good sets ;
that is, to pick a quantity of the best kinds of potatoes perfectly
sound, and of a tolerably large size ; these are to be prepared
for planting by cutting each root into two, three, or more pieces,
minding particularly that each piece be furnished with at least
one or two eyes or buds, which is sufficient.

Being thus prepared, they are to be planted in rows, not less
than eighteen inches' distance, but will be more eligible at two
feet asunder, and to be set twelve or fifteen inches distant in
the row, and about three or four deep.

As to the method of planting, it is very commonly performed
with a thick blunt-ended dibble, both in gardens and fields; but
in the latter, where a light mellow soil, some plant them as they
proceed in ploughing the ground, in a row along the bottom of
the furrows, four, five, or six inches deep, turning the earth oi
the next furrow over them. Others first dig or plough the
ground, then draw drills with a hoe or plough, about three to
four or five inches deep, and so drop the sets in the drills, and
cover them in.

To plant them with dibbles, have the dibbles thick and blunt-
ended ; or those who plant large quantities infields have dibbles
about three feet long, with a cross handle at top, to take hold
on with both hands, and the lower end shod with irou, having
a foot or shoulder of iron fixed at about four or five inches from
the bottom, both to put the foot upon occasionally, to help to
thrust it into the ground ; and by thrusting it always as far in
the ground as the above shoulder, the holes are made all an ex-
act depth.

For large quantities in fields, one person may be employed
in making the holes, and another to follow after, to drop in the
potato-sets ; which work of dropping them may be performed
by women, girls, or boys.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

Plant Jerusalem artichokes where required.

These roots will thrive in almost any soil, and multiply so ex-
ceedingly, that it is not easy to clear the ground of them again ;
for the least bit will grow. The root, the eatable part of the
plant, being large fleshy tubers, bearing some resemblance to a
potato, but of a more irregular form, and taste somewhat like

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

J 53

the bottom of an artichoke, (hence probably the name first ori-
ginated, as they bear not the least resemblance in growth to an
artichoke) ; are in perfection in autumn and all the winter, and
are very good and wholesome to boil and eat with butter, &c.

They are raised by sets or cuttings of the roots ; preparing
the sets and planting them, as directed for potatoes.

Let them be planted in rows a yard asunder, four or five
inches deep, and eighteen inches or two feet distant in the rows

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

PRUNING FIG-TREES.

Prune fig-trees, this being the best time of the year for per-
forming that work in a general pruning.

Some prune figs the latter end of autumn ; but that is wrong;
the young bearing shoots being tender, many of them are liable
to be killed by the frost in severe winters ; and, therefore, if
they were to be pruned in autumn, and no more shoots left than
what will just furnish the wall, and severe frosts afterwards de-
stroy many of the shoots, you have then no resource left for
shoots to supply these vacancies.

The best way, therefore, is to let these trees remain unprun-
ed till this season, leaving the whole supply of young shoots
till this time : and if severe frosts should happen in winter,
there will be a chance, out of the whole, to find enough that
have escaped the frost to lay in to furnish the wall.

In pruning fig-trees, observe, that as they bear only on the
young wood, must leave a sufficient supply of the last summer's
shoots from the bottom to the extremity, every way, in all parts
where possible ; and prune out the ill-placed and superfluous
thereof, with part of the old bearers and long-extended naked
old wood, to have due room to train the proper shoots, so as
the tree may be equally furnished with a succession of young
bearers, at moderate distances ; for these young shoots bear the
figs the ensuing season ; fig-trees always producing their fruit,
on the one-year old wood only.

Leave the branches and shoots in general about five to six
or seven inches asunder, with all the shoots at full length : be-
ing careful to preserve the best middling strong shoots to retain
for general bearers, cutting out the improper and superabundant

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THE FRUIT GARDEN.

I.Mah.

and useless old wood quite close ; pruning out any very ram-
pant young wood, excessive long-jointed shoots, or very slender
infirm growths ; leaving the most promising firm robust shoots
to supply the general expansion, with a leading one to each
branch.

Take care always, in particular, to train in every year some
young shoots, at or near the bottom, that there may be a suc-
cession of young branches coming up regularly one after ano-
ther, to supply the places of casual, long, old, naked branches,
which will occur every season in some part or other of the tree ;
for such long-extended, naked, old branches, or others not fur-
nished properly with young wood, should now be cut out, that
(here may be sufficient room to train the bearing branches regu-
larly, and at proper distances.

In cutting out useless large branches of these trees, either
any too long extended, or unfurnished with bearing wood, &c,
should be either cut off close to the place from whence they
proceed, or to some convenient lower young shoot or branch,
cutting them quite close, leaving no stump.

The young branches of fig-trees must not be shortened or
topped ; but leave each at full length; for if they were to be
shortened, it would not only cut away the part where fruit
would have appeared, but also occasion them to run much to
wood, and thereby never produce half a crop of fruit ; so only
cut off casual dead ends.

The tree being pruned, let the general branches and bearers
be directly trained in and nailed to the wall in regular order,
extending them horizontally, and.nailed along straight and close,
at equal distances, six or seven inches from each other.

PLANTING AND PROPAGATING FIG-TREES.

Plant fig-trees where wanted, this being rather the best
month in the year for removing them ; for they will now take
root in a very short time.

In planting figs, may either procure trained young trees of
several years' growth that are arrived to a bearing slate, and
plant them against the best south walls, at fifteen or twenty
feet distance ; or as these trees are propagated, in general, either
by the suckers which arise from the roots of the old trees, or by
layers, or cuttings, young plants of these may be planted at
once, where they are to remain, as above, that they may estab-
lish their roots more effectually without being afterwards dis-
turbed by removal, as old plants do not root so freely as young-

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THE FRUIT GARDEN.

155

therefore, in default of trained trees, some good suckers of mo-
derate growth, and such as are firm and well ripened, may be
procured either in the beginning of this month or in October,
slipping them off as low as possible, with roots ; and plant
strong .ones at once where they are to remain ; and others may
be planted in the nursery, for training a few years.

But to raise them by layers, it is performed on the young
branches of one or two years' growth; laying them in the earth
three to four or five inches deep, with the tops out ; and they
will be well rooted by next October, when they should be sepa-
rated from the old tree, and planted either in the nursery, or
where they are to remain.

Cuttings of the young shoots may also be planted now, or in
autumn ; and they will be well rooted by the autumn following,
managing them as above.

These trees, in their final planting, should be allotted the
best south walls, and planted, at least, fifteen to eighteen or
twenty feet distance.

Or, occasionally, fig-trees trained in half or quarter standards
with full heads, may be planted detached, in some sheltered
sunny situation, permitting their heads to branch out regularly
around, and they will, in favourable seasons, produce ripe figs
in tolerable perfection. •

PRUNING APRICOT, PEACH, AND NECTARINE TREES.

Where apricot, peach, and nectarine trees still remain un-
pruned, let them now be pruned and nailed, as soon as possible :
they should be finished by the middle of the month at farthest.

The buds of these trees being now pretty much swelled for
bloom, are thereby liable to be rubbed off with the least touch ;
therefore great care should be taken when you prune them ;
otherwise many of the buds will be displaced.

In pruning these trees, let the same method be observed as
in the former months.

Nail the branches even and close to the wall, at equal dis-
tances, taking particular care of the blossom-buds, for they are
more liable to be rubbed off in nailing than pruning,

, PROTECTING THE BLOSSOMS OF WALL TREES.

About the end of this month, some of the wall trees, as the
apricots, peaches, and nectarines, will be coming into flowers.
At this season, in this precarious climate, it is absolutely neces-
sary in most situations, to protect the blossoms from cutting

156

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Mail

winds and frosts. The most simple mode of doing this is by
sticking twigs of spruce leaves, ferns, &c, among the branches
of the trees, so as to overhang the blossoms. Strong fern cut
in the autumn and dried for the purpose, may do pretty well
for protecting small detached trees, but when a tree is of full
size, the best and cheapest method is to protect it by woollen
nets, which are much better than any other sort, and may be
had at a trifling expense. When properly applied, they are
very effectual in protecting from frost and cutting winds. They
should be hung regularly over the trees, and made fast on all
sides to the wall and to the ground. They should be stretched
out to the distance of fifteen inches from the wall, by a suffi-
cient number of forked sticks, with their butt ends against the
wall, and the forked ends to keep the nets steadily out.

In most of the gardens in Scotland, the principal wall trees
are protected by screens of a sort of thin muslin, generally known
by the name of buntine, made into large sheets, sometimes of a
considerable length, and of breadth according to the height of
the walls they are to occupy. For hoisting these up and down
at pleasure, a set of slight rafters are placed against the wall at
regular distances. These are made fast by small iron bolts to
gland bats under the coping of the wall, and at the bottom to
stakes driven into the ground, about eighteen inches from the
wall. A light stretcher, mounted with pulleys, is fixed along
the top of the rafters, and three or more stretchers, as the height
of the wall may require, are also tied to the screen, one of them
along the bottom, and another along the top, with cords for the
pulleys. The rafters at each end should have groves for the
stretchers to run in, and the end should be covered in by a thin
board between the rafter and the wall. While these screens
may be easily and expeditiously raised and lowered, they are at
the same time kept perfectly steady, and at a regular distance
from the trees, by the stretchers resting on the rafters. The
whole being moveable, may be soon erected or taken down.
When carefully kept, they will last for many years. They are
generally oiled in order to make them more durable, and to ad-
mit more light, it being sometimes necessary to use them through
the day as well as at night in severe weather.

PRUNING PEARS, PLUMS, CHERRIES, APPLES, &c.

Finish pruning pears, plums, cherries, and apple trees, either
against walls, espaliers, or standards.

Pruning of these, and all other fruit-trees, which yet remain

Mar.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

157

unpruned, should now be forwarded as fast as possible, that the
whole may be finished by the middle or end of the month as
directed in January, February, &c.

PLANTING FRUIT-TREES.

Fruit-trees of all kinds may be planted any time of this
month, with success, but the sooner in the month the better
before they begin to shoot ; they will now take root in a short
time ; and, with the assistance of a little water in dry weather,
they will shoot freely.

In planting fruit-trees, either for walls, espaliers, or stand-
ards, observe to plant each kind at the distance mentioned in
the two former months, and in October, &c.

For the proper soil and situation for the several kinds of fruit,
see the work of October and November.

The method of planting is to open a wide hole for every tree,
about a spade deep, or according to the' size of the root, and
loosen the bottom well. Then prune the roots of the tree ;
that is, cut off bruised or broken roots, and trim the ends a little
of all the very long straggling roots in general, and prune out
irregular shoots of the head ; then place the tree in the hole ;
break the earth well, ana throw it in equally about the roots ;
and when all is in, tread the surface gently round the tree.

New planted fruit trees should be well secured from the
violence of the wind : if they are tall standards, in exposed
situations, let them be supported with stakes j and if wall trees,
&c, with largish heads, planted against walls and espaliers,
fasten their main branches thereto.

PRUNING AND TRAINING YOUNG APRICOT AND PEACH TREES, &c.

Now is the only proper time to head down young wall trees,
&c, preparatory to their first training ; such as apricot, peach,
and nectarine trees, planted against walls any time since last
Michaelmas, with their first shoots, from budding at full length ;
which, when a year old, should always be headed down low,
to force out lower branches, to furnish the wall properly quite
from the bottom.

This should be done just- as the trees begin to push ; there-
fore watch the opportunity, and let them be headed accord-
ingly at the proper time.

The heads should be cut down to about- five, six, or seven
eyes, or buds, from the bottom ; and if there are two shoots
from the same stock, let them both be cut down as above.

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THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Mad.

By this practice the trees will produce some strong shoots
near the ground, whereby they will be furnished equally with
branches from the bottom to the top of the wall. But if the
trees were not to be headed down, as above, they would run up
with a stem like a standard tree, and not furnish any branches
below, within two or three feet of the bottom ; whereby the
use of so much of that part of the wall would be lost.

Such young apricot, peach, and nectarine trees, as were
headed down a year ago, and having each produced three or
four or more shoots the last summer, should now have these
shortened to such length as may encourage each shoot to pro-
duce two or three new ones the same season.

The method is this : let each shoot be shortened generally
in some degree of proportion to its strength ; in some pruning
off about one half, or third of their original length ; and in
others a little more or less, according to circumstances of growth
and situation on the trees; as for instance, shoots of about two
feet may be cut to ten, twelve, or fifteen inches, or a little
longer in strong growths, for the strongest shoots should always
be left the longest ; and those about twelve or fifteen or eigh-
teen inches, pruned to six or eight to ten or twelve inches in
length ; and so in proportion to the different lengths and de-
grees of strength, and particular situations of the respective
shoots; — See January, &c.

By this practice each of these shoots will probably produce
twp, three, or four new shoots the succeeding summer, so that
by Michaelmas each young tree so treated will be furnished with
from twelve or fifteen to eighteen or twenty shoots, or more.

The trees may then be pruned, according to the method di-
rected for the older trees of that sort, observing still to shorten
the young shoots but in such a manner, as they may both pro-
duce fruit and a supply of young wood, as in the full bearing
trees aforesaid : that is, generally to prune the weaker shoots
about one half, the stronger ones prune about a third or fourth
of their length, according to strength, and where situated, and
situation of the blossom and wood-buds on the respective shoots ;
and then nail them straight and close to the wall, three or four
to five or six inches asunder.— See Fruit Garden in January,
&c.

PRUNING AND TRAINING YOUNG APPI-E TREES, &0.

km young dwarf apples, pears, plums, and cherry trees, lately
Slanted against walls or espaliers, &c, or still remaining in uie

Mar.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

159

nurse y, with their first shoots of only a year or cwo old, entire,
should now be pruned down to a few eyes, that they may put
out some good shoots near the ground, to furnish the bottom of
the wall or espalier therewith.

If the heads of these trees are but one year's growth from the
bud or graft, let them be shortened to four or five eyes ; ob-
serving to do it just as they begin to form buds for shooting as
•before mentioned.

Suppose they are two years from the bud or graft, and the
first shoots were cut down, as above, last spring ; let the shoots
which were produced from them the last summer be also short-
ened now to six, eight, or ten inches.

The same rule holds good with these, at first training, as
mentioned for the apricots and peaches; for it is on shortening
properly the first and second years' shoots, from the budding
and grafting, that the whole success depends for forming a use-
ful handsome tree, as, when a young wall or espalier tree is well
furnished with branches near the ground, those will readily sup .
ply you with more in their turn, to furnish the wall or espalier
upwards.

But in the common course of pruning apples, pears, plums,
and cherries, their shoots and branches are not to be shortened ;
for after the young trees are furnished with a proper supply of
branches below, their shoots must then be trained to the wall
at full length, only shortening particular shoots where more
wood may be required to furnish that part.

For more particulars in that work, see the work of last month.

GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS.

Phone gooseberry and currant bushes, where they are not
yet done ; but let this work be finished the beginning of the
month. °

Keep the branches thin, and the middle of the trees open and
clear the wood, so as to admit the sun and air freely; by which
means the fruit will be large, and well tasted. Observe the
rules exhibited in January, February, and October.

Dig the ground between the gooseberry and currant trees,
where not done m the two former months, which as they are

il!nta?TnCm/inbud' Wi" now be of s™. I" promoting a
plentiful production of large good fruit.

Finish planting gooseberry and currant trees where any are
"il!arlyinthem0Ilt,laS — enient._See JaZary,

160

THE BRUIT GARDEN.

[Mar.

DIGGING THE FRUIT-TREE BORDERS.

Dig the fruit-tree borders which are not yet done.

These will be serviceable to the trees, and destroy the weeds i
and the borders will appear neat and decent, and will be ready
for sowing or planting with some kitchen crops of small growth.

Hoe and loosen the surfaee of such fruit-tree borders as were
dug in the foregoing months, and are not sown with any close
crops ; as radishes, spinach, lettuce, &c. It will be of some
service to the trees, retard the growth of advancing seed-weeds,
Sr.c; and the whole will appear neat for the spring season.,

PRUNING VINES.

Where vines are not yet pruned, let them be now done as
soon as possible ; for when vines are pruned too late, it is sel-
dom that a good crop succeeds.

For the particular method of pruning them, see the work of
the two last months, or November, &c.

Plant cuttings of vines the beginning or middle of this month ;
by which means you may propagate any sort you desire; for
the cuttings will take root freely.

The cuttings must be shoots of the last year, which if cut from
the trees last month or the beginning of this, it will be the
more eligible; shortening them to twelve inches in length, or
each to about three joints ; and in some, where they admit, may
let each cutting have about an inch of the former year's wood
at its bottom ; though this is not absolutely necessary, as they
will succeed without that appendage: and may divide long
shoots into two, three, or more lengths, as above, for planting.

They may be planted either in nursery rows, or some in the
places where they are finally to remain, either against walls,
espaliers, or elsewhere ; observing to plant them somewhat
slanting, and so deep that only one joint or eye may appear
above ground, nearly close to the surface.

Vines are also propagated by layers of the young shoots,^ or
occasionally with part of the branch they proceed from ; laying
them about three to four or five inches deep in the earth, leav-
ing three eyes of the shoot out of the ground, shortening the
top accordingly, if too long.

Or may occasionally make layers in large pots, placed near,
the vine intended for propagation : and either draw the layer
shoot through the hole at bottom of the pot, and fill up the pot
with earth, or bend the layer down into tne top of the pot a

Mae.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

proper depth in the earth ; and, in either method, when the
layers are rooted next autumn, cut them off from the parent
tree ; and may remain in the pots a year or two, or till they at-
tain a bearing state ; and then, cracking the pot asunder, may
be transplanted with the whole ball of earth about the roots ;
or, some may remain in the pots for fruiting, either in the full
air, or for forcing.*

STRAWBERRIES.

Dkess the strawberry beds, if they were not done in the
former months ; the plants will now begin to push apace ; and
the sooner this is done the better.

Clear the beds from weeds, and the plants from old runner-
strings and other litter; and if the main plants are crowded with
young ones from the last year's runners, let them be cleared to
regular order ; for it is most advisable to keep these plants in
single bunches, clear of each other, so that there may be room
both to hoe between them, or occasionally to dig round them
with a narrow spade or a trowel ; and they will fruit in great
perfection.

The beds being cleared from litter, loosen the earth between
the plants ; and if you add a little fresh earth from the alleys,
&c, to the beds, it will strengthen the plants, and they will
flower strong, and produce large fruit.

Strawberries may now be planted where required. Observe
the same method as mentioned in February, &c.

A farther supply of bearing strawberry-plants in pots may
still be placed in hotbeds and hothouses, &c, to produce a suc-
cession of early strawberries to succeed those of the former
months, and to afford a supply of ripe fruit till those in the
open ground ripen in June.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN.

PRICKING OUT EARLY ANNUALS.

If any tender annuals were sown last month, &c, such as
cockscomb baisamines, &c., make a new hotbed towards the
middle or latter end of this, in which to prick them, to forward

*t^^Z?£%^J?$£°m short cuttings or eyes, in pots, and ours,*

162

THE PLEASURE

[Mae.

their growth. Let the hotbed be about two feet or thirty inches
high, and make the top even ; then set on the frame ; and when
the great heat is over, let the earth be put in ; let the earth be
light and rich, and perfectly dry, and lay it equally over the bed
six inches thick ; and, when warm, prick the plants therein at
three or four inches' distance, each way, or some may also be
pricked in small pots, one good plant in each, and plunged in
the earth of the bed ; giving the whole a little sprinkling of
water ; then let the glasses be put on, observing to raise them
behind a little every day, to admit air and let out the steam ;
shade the plants from the sun till they have taken, fresh root.

When the plants are rooted, and begin to push, they should
have fresh air every day ; therefore let the upper ends of the
glasses be raised an inch, or two, or three in height, to admit it
to them ; but shut them down towards the evening, and cover '
them on cold nights with mats ; remember to sprinkle them
with water occasionally, giving but a little at each time.

Keep up the heat of the bed by occasional lining with hot

dung. , ,.

Thus these tender annuals are to be continued forwarding m
growth till May or June; then finally transplanted into large
pots, flower borders, &c.

SOWING TENDER ANNUALS.

A hotbed may be made the beginning or any time of this
month, in which to sow the seeds of tender annual flowers, such
as cockscomb, amaranthus, egg plant, marvel of Peru, double
stramonium, double balsamine, globe amaranthus, ice plant, sen-
sitive, plant, &c. (See List of Annuals.) Make the bed, and
sow the seed, as directed in last month. Or a few plants may
be raised in pots in any cucumber or melon hotbed now m cul-
tivation, to a proper size for transplanting.— See April.

The plants raised from the above sowings will blow strong
and beautiful in June or July, &c, till October.

Remember they are not to remain in the hotbed where raised,
but are to be transplanted, some into pots, and some into the
borders. — See April, May, and June.

SOWING LESS TENDER ANNUALS.

A slight hotbed should be made in the second or third week
of this month, wherein to sow the seeds of the less tender kinds
of annual flowers : such as the China aster, India pink, palma
Christi, capsicum, French and African marigolds, chrysantne-

Mail]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

163

mum, broad-leaved tobacco, basil, mignonette, and ten-weeks
stocks, tree and purple amaranthus, persicarias, love-apple, sca-

biouses, convolvulus major, and Chinese hollyhocks, &c (See

List of Annuals.) — Or also among these may sow some bal-
sams, marvel of Peru, globe amaranthus, stramoniums, &c.

See April.

Observe, they are all only to be raised in the hotbed, and
afterwards transplanted into the borders, pots, &c.

Make the hotbed about two feet high ; put on the frame, and
then earth the bed, five or six inches thick, for the reception of
the seed.

The method of sowing these seeds is this : draw small shal-
low drills from the back to the front of the frame, two or three
inches asunder ; sow the seeds therein, each sort separate, and
not too thick ; cover the smallest seed about a quarter of an
inch, and the largest near half an inch ; or some may be sown
in pots placed in the same bed. When the plants are come up,
iet them have air by raising the upper end of the glasses, or
sometimes the front, in mild weather, one, two, or three inches
every day : and when they are advanced two, three, or four
inches in growth, next month they must be gradually hardened,
to bear the open air, by taking the lights entirely off in mild
warm days. Refresh them occasionally with moderate sprink-
lings of water ; some of them will be fit to prick out next month,
and all of them in May. — See those months.

Note. In default o'f frames and lights for the hotbed, may
use hand-glasses, or oiled paper frames ; or may arch the bed
over, and cover with garden mats, &c, only in nights and bad
weather.

Where a hotbed cannot be conveniently obtained, you may
towards the latter end of the month, if fine mild weather, sow
some of the above-mentioned annual flower-seeds on a warm
border, and cover occasionally in cold nights and bad weather
with glasses or mats, &c, as above.

The sorts that will succeed by that method are China asters,
ten-weeks stocks, Indian pink, African and French marigold,
chrysanthemum, purple and tree amaranthus, persicarias, tobac-
co, scabiouses, and convolvulus major, mignonette, &c. : sow
tne seeds thin, each sort separate, and either place hand-glasses,
or arch the bed over, and cover every night, and in bad weather,
with mats across the hoops. With this management, the plants
will come up, and grow freely. Refresh them with water in
dry weather • and they will be fit to plant out about the middle

64

THE PLEASURE

[Mar.

or end of May, or beginning of June, and will flower Hie latter
end of June, and in July, &c, to the end of autumn.

May sow ten-weeks stocks, and mignonette in borders, beds,
or pots, &c, both for transplanting, or some to remain, three or
four together, for flowering where sown.

Or, for want either of a hotbed, or any of the other above-
mentioned conveniences, most of the above seeds will succeed
in a warm border next month, without any protection.

For their full management, see the work of the three suc-
ceeding months.

SOWING HARDY ANNUAL FLOWERS.

Sow in the borders, and other flower compartments, pots,
&C the seeds of the various sorts of hardy annual flowers, such
as large and dwarf annual sunflower, oriental mallow, lavatera,
persicaria, Venice mallow, larkspur, flos Adonis, sweet sultan,
large rose, and blue and yellow lupines, convolvulus major,
sweet-scented peas, Tangier peas, and nasturtiums, the Spanish
nigella, purple and white candy-tuft, virgin stock, Venus' look-
ing-glass, Venus' navel-wort, double poppy, Lobel's catchfly,
dwarf lychnis, snails, caterpillars, and convolvulus minor, ten-
weeks stocks, and mignonette, and various others. — See the
List of Annuals; also next month.

All the above and other hardy annual flower-seeds should be
sown, each kind separate, in patches, in the different borders,
and flower beds, &c, finally to remain where sown ; as also
some in pots, of any desirable species or varieties, such as lark-
spurs, lupines, scarlet and sweet peas, ten-weeks stocks, migno-
nette, &c, sowing the whole as directed last month: water the
patches both before and after the plants are come up ; and ob-
serving the plants of this tribe sown as above, are principally to
remain where sown to flower ; but, when a little advanced, let
the larger-growing kind be thinned where too thick in growth.

GIVING FRESH EARTH TO PLANTS IN POTS.

Give some fresh earth to the pots of carnations, auriculas,
double wall flowers, double stock July flowers, double sweet-
williams, rockets, rose campions, catchfly, campanulas, and
scarlet lychnis, and such like plants, which were potted last
autumn, or before, and were not dressed last month.

In doing this, clear the plants first from decayed leaves, then
take some of the earth out of the top of the pots, but not too
deep to disturb the roots of the plants; then fill up the pots

Mar.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

165

again with fresh earth, and give some water; this will strengthen
their roots, and the plants will shoot freely, and produce large
flowers.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

The cuttings of double crysanthemums, which were planted
in boxes or pots last autumn, and preserved all the winter in
frames, &c, should now be planted out singly in the pots where
they are to flower ; some of them may be planted out next
month in the borders among other flowers, where they will
flower early and strong, and make a handsome appearance.

AURICULA PLANTS.

If the auriculas in pots, were not dressed last month, let it
w be done early in this, as formerly directed.
The fine auricula plants in pots should now be guarded from
excessive wet, cold winds, and frost, such weather being hurtful
to their flower buds, which are now in forwardness. Therefore
continue the pots under frames or hoop arches, where the plants
can enjoy the open air, and be defended, when there is occasion,
by glasses, or drawing mats over the hoops.

But let the plants enjoy the full air in mild weather, and not
be debarred from a warm moderate shower of rain, which will
now prove beneficial to their advancing flower buds. "When
the weather is dry, let them be refreshed moderately with water,
just to keep the earth a little moist about their roots, and keep
the pots clear of weeds and the plants from decayed leaves.

now

CARNATIONS.

The carnations which were raised from layers last year, and
which are not yet planted into the large pots, borders, &c.,
where you intend them to flower, should be planted therein the
beginning of this month.

Take up the plants with some, of their own earth about their
roots, and place one plant in the middle of each pot ; but if the
pots be large, you may put two plants in each ; close the earth
well about them, and give a moderate watering to settle the
earth about their roots. Place the pots where the plants may
be defended from cold winds, and water them moderately in
dry weather ; the others plant singly in borders, &c.

Where any best carnations were planted singly in small pots
last autumn, to place under shelter in winter, should now, if
not done last month, be transplanted, with the ball of earth

166

THE PLEASURE,

[Mak.

about the roots, into large pots, or borders, &c, to remain for
flowering.

The carnation plants which were planted last autumn in,o
the large pots where they are to remain, should now be fresh
earthed, if not done in February.

Let the plants first be cleared from dead leaves, then take
some of the earth out of the pots, as near to their roots as pos-
sible, without disturbing them ; then let the pots be filled up
with the fresh mould, laying it close round the plants ; after
which, water the pots to settle the earth.

The fresh earth will be of great service to the plants ; it will
strengthen them, and cause them to shoot strong, and produce
large and handsome flowers.

This is now a proper time to sow carnation seed. — See the
work of Sowing perennial Plants, in the next page. 1

PROTECTING CURIOUS FLOWERS.

Now protect the flower buds of the more curious kinds of
tulips, hyacinths, ranunculuses, and anemones, in beds, from
cold driving rains, snow, and frost, which frequently happen in
this month. Their flower buds are now advancing apace :
therefore, it will be of much advantage to bestow the care of
covering- them in bad weather, and they will blow large and
beautiful in great perfection. Let the hoop-arches be continued
over the beds, as mentioned in the former months, ready for the
support of occasional covering, when the weather is frosty, and
in excessive cold rains, &c, sharp cutting winds, and very cold
nights, with large mats drawn over the hoops.

In mild days, let them be constantly uncovered, that they
may enjoy the free air ; and moderate warm showers of rain
will enliven their growth, and be very serviceable.

If the hoops which are fixed across the beds are low, and too
near the flowers when advanced in growth, they should be
removed, and others fixed higher in their places.

HYACINTHS.

Hyacinths will now begin to advance apace ; if the flower-
stems are tall, and the spikes of the flowers large and the petals
double, you should prepare some sticks to support them ; for
the large double flowers being heavy, the stalk alone is not able
to bear them up. Let a small neat stick be fixed in the ground
near every plant, and let their flower-stalks be brought close
and fastened thereto neatly with some small soft tying.

Mar.] oe flower GARDEN, • 18"

PLANTING RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONES.

Finish planting all ranunculuses and anemones ; they will
blow and make a fine appearance in May and June, after the
early planted ones are out of bloom. In dry weather, let the
beds be frequently watered after the plants are up, and they
will flower tolerably strong.

SOWING VARIOUS KINDS OF FIBROUS-ROOTED PERENNIAL AND
BIENNIAL PLANTS.

Perennial and biennial flower-seeds, of most kinds, may be
sown towards the middle and latter end of the month.

It is to be observed, that these kinds do not flower the same
year they are sown : but all the sorts of them will flower strong,
and in good perfection, the year after.

_ As every one may not know the meaning of perennial and
biennial plants, the perennial plants are those which continue in
the same roots many years, producing new flower-stems an-
nually, such as everlasting sunflower, golden-rod, perennial
asters, &c. The biennials are only of two years' duration,
being sown one year, and flower and perfect their seeds the
next, and soon after die, or become of a dwindling growth, such
as scabious, Canterbury bell-flower, single sweet-williams, '&c.

_ Many kinds are proper to be sown now, such as carnations,
pinks, sweet-williams, wall-flowers, and stock gillyflowers of all
sorts ; also rose campion, catchfly, scarlet sychnis, columbines,
Greek valerian, polyanthus, auriculas, scabiouses, and Canter-
bury bells.

The seeds of hollyhocks, French honey-suckles, rockets,
honesty, or satin-flower, tree-primrose, shrubby mallow broad-
leaved campanula, and fox-gloves, snap-dragon, bee-larkspur
with seeds of most other sorts of perennial and biennial plants
may now be sown.

For an account of the various sorts to be raised from seed
see Catalogue of Plants nt the end of the book.

All the above, and other hardy perennial and biennial flower-
seeds, are to be sown in beds of light earth in the open ground

Dig a compartment for them in a warm situation, but not in
any shady place : divide the ground into beds three or four feet
wide, and the beds into as . many parts as you have kinds of
K.eds : sow each kind separate, and let them either be raked in
regularly,, or covered with earth spread over evenly, the larger

S68

THE PLEASURE

[Mab.

seeds half an inch, and the smaller seeds about a quarter of an
inch deep.

But in sowing these kinds, or any other sorts of perennial and
biennial flower seeds, you may draw shallow drills to sow them
in, proportioning the depth of the drill to the size of the parti,
cular seeds, so that each kind can be more regularly covered
with the proper depth of earth it requires ; which method is
more particularly eligible for the larger seeds, such as holly,
hocks, &c, but is also very proper, occasionally or generally, for
the smaller kinds ; or the whole may be sown broadcast on the
rough surface, and raked in evenly.

When the weather is dry, sprinkle the beds frequently with
water, continuing also the same care when the plants begin to
appear; and they will be fit for pricking out in May or June.

For it must be observed, that all the above, and other peren-
nial and biennial plants raised from seed, are to be transplanted ;
first pricking them out from the seed-bed about the end of May,
and in June (see these months), and then about Michaelmas,
October, or November, to be transplanted to where they are to
remain to flower ; or some may remain for final transplanting
in the spring.

DIGGING THE BORDERS, Sc.

Dig such borders, or other flower compartments, &c, as are
not yet done, and rake them smooth : they will then be ready
to receive the seeds of annual flowers, and plants of others;
besides, they will appear fresh and neat.

TRANSPLANTING PERENNIAL PLANTS.

Where there are vacancies in any of the beds, borders, of
other parts of the garden, they may now be filled up with many
different kinds of perennial and biennial flower-plants, any time
in the month, and will all blow the same year.

Many principal sorts may now be planted, such as lychnises,
rose campions, rockets, catchfly, campanulas, carnations, pinks,
and sweet-williams, wall-flowers, stock gillyflowers, bachelor's-
buttons, and double feverfew; golden-rod, perennial sun-
flowers, perennial asters, and French honey-suckles ; also
columbines, Canterbury bells, monk's-hood, fox-gloves, tree-
primroses, scabious, snap-dragon, irises, bee-larkspur, double
ragged robin, valerian, and most' others of the like sort. — See
September.

Plant also dwarf fibrous-rooted flowers in the borders, &c.

Mar.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

they will take root freely in a short time : such as polyanthuses,
auriculas, double daisies, double chamomile, London pride,
violets, hepaticas, thrift, primroses, saxifrage, and gentianella,
lily of the valley, and cyclamen, &c. — See September.

In planting the intended different kinds, dispose them vari-
edly ; and the larger growing sorts more or less back, the
smaller growths forward towards the front and middle.

Give water at first planting, and afterwards occasionally in
dry weather, till the plants are fresh rooted ; by which they will
grow freely, and all flower the same year in their proper season.

HOEING AND RAKING THE BORDERS.

Loosen, with a hoe or small spade, the surface of those beds
or borders which were dug and planted with flowers of any kind
last autumn, or any time since.

Let this be done in a dry day, hoeing, or lightly digging and
stirring the earth carefully between the plants, taking care of
the shoots from bulbous roots, &c, which are now just peeping
through the surface ; clearing away all decayed leaves of the
plants, weeds, and every sort of rubbish, and then let the beds
or borders be neatly raked even and smooth.

By thus loosening the surface of the borders, the first growth
of seed-weeds will be retarded, and it will greatly promote the
growth of the flowers, and the whole will appear clean and
agreeable.

PLANTING SHRUBS, AND DIGGING THE CLUMPS IN THE
SHRUBBERY.

Finish pruning all sorts of flowering shrubs and evergreens
which require it, observing the directions of the two former
months.

Dig the ground in the clumps or borders between flowering
shrubs and evergreens, if not done in the former months. Let
it be done at the beginning of this month, which will prove
beneficial to the plants, and the ground being turned up fresh,
will appear neat, and the plants will show themselves more
agreeably.

PLANTING DECIDUOUS FLOWERING SHRUBS, ORNAMENTAL AND
FOREST TREES.

Where deciduous flowering shrubs or trees are wanted in
any part of the pleasure-ground, they may now be brought in
•nd planted, for the most sorts will yet succeed ; such as the

H

170

THE PLEASURE

[Mae.

althasa-frutex, spirseas, syringas, roses, guelder-rose, honey-suc-
kles, arbor Juda?, jasmines, common lilac, Persian lilac, mese-
reons, tacamahacca, laburnums, hypericum-frutex, bladder-nut,
sumach, candleberry, myrtle, dog-wood, or euonymus, Virginia
dog- wood, double-flowering cherry, dwarf almond, and all other
kinds of hardy flowering shrubs, may still be planted.

For a more particular account of the different sorts, see the
Catalogue of Shrubs and Trees at the end of the book, and in
the work of November.

Finish making plantations of all such deciduous ornamental
and forest trees as are intended : most sorts may still be suc-
cessfully removed and planted ; such as acacias, larches, horse-
chestnut, plane-trees, lime tree, poplar, almond catalpa, tulip-
tree, liquid amber, Spanish chestnut, beech, oaks, elms, maples,
ashes, birch, walnuts, hiccory, &c, but it is advisable to com-
plete the planting as soon as possible. — See the Catalogue of
Deciduous Trees. — See also Forest-Trees.

TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS.

Evergreens of most kinds may be planted any time this
month in open mild weather, they will now generally take
root the most freely, and advance in a successful growth.

Particularly the arbutus, or strawberry-tree, magnolias, and
bays, the evergreen spindle-tree or euonymus, pyracantha, phil-
lyrea, and alaternus, may be transplanted any time this month,
when the weather is mild. Plant also, when wanted, laurels,
Portugal laurels, laurustinus, evergreen oaks, hollies, and yews ;
also cytisus, and cistuses, with any other of the like kinds of
evergreen shrubs or trees.

The cedars of Lebanon may be likewise transplanted any
time in this month, as also pines and firs of all sorts, cypress,
junipers, arbor vitse, and savin.

All other sorts of hardy, or open-ground evergreen shrubs
and trees may likewise be safely transplanted at this season. —
For a list of the various sorts, see October, or the Catalogue at
the end of the book.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING ALL SORTS OF SHRUBS.

All flowering and evergreen shrubs, ornamental trees, &c,
designed for the shrubbery, and other pleasurable plantations,
should be planted at such distances, that they may not crowd
each other as they grow up ; for they always show themselves
best when they stand separate at some moderate distance. And

Mar.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

171

shrubs of all kinds, designed for detached clumps particularly,
should be planted not less than three, to four or five feet asun-
der ; that the different shrubs, according to their growth, may
generally remain distinct; but where a thickety growth is re-
quired in particular compartments, a closer plantation may be
formed of different common shrubs.

Let all tree kinds be also allowed proper room, proportion-
able to their respective growths, and according to whether they
are designed for open or close plantations, or clumps, groves,
avenues, or thickets, &c.

In planting shrubs and trees of every kind, let all convenient
expedition be made in doing it, so that they may be planted as
soon as possible after they are taken up, or brought from the
nursery, or el'sewhere, that their roots may not be dried by sun
and wind ; but when the shrubs are brought from any distance,
and cannot be immediately planted, untie the bundles, and lay
the roots in a trench, and cover them with earth to lie till the
places allotted for them are ready to receive them.

In preparing for planting, dig a round aperture for each shrub
and tree, from half a yard to two or more feet wide, and a spade
deep, capacious enough to receive the roots freely ; and loosen
the bottom well. Then having the shrubs, &c, ready, -prune
off broken or bruised roots, with any irregular production off the
head ; and then place them in the hole upright, break the earth
well, and throw it in equally about the roots, which let be
covered a proper depth, shaking the plant gently as the earth is
filled in, to cause it to settle close between all the roots and
fibres ; then tread it moderately, to fix the plants firmly in an
upright position ; making the top of the earth a little hollow,
round each shrub, to hold water when given in dry weather ; if
they are watered as soon as planted, it will settle the earth
about all the roots more effectually, and promote their fresh
rooting; and it would be of advantage in general, but more
particularly to any more tender or curious shrubs, &e., to lay
some mulch on the surface to preserve the moisture about the
roots in dry weather.

Immediately after planting, fix stakes to such tall plants as
require support, and let them be fastened thereto.

PLANTING ROSES.

i-tkeks of most sorts may still be removed.

;e that are planted any time this month will produce

172

THE PLEASURE

[Mae.

flowers the same year ; but the sooner they are planted the
better they will take root, and the stronger they will flower.

But by transplanting these shrubs late in the season, in April
and beginning of May, giving plenty of water till fresh rooted,
you obtain a late bloom in July, August, and September.

PLANTING EDGINGS FOR BEDS OR BORDERS.

Plant box-edgings ; they will now take root soon, and grow
freely, provided you water them a few times in dry weather.
Where there are any gaps in the former planted edgings, let
them now be made good ; for ragged and uneven edgings have
a disagreeable appearance.

Or where any old edgings of several years' standing have
been permitted to run up rude and spreading, nothing in a gar-
den looks more unsightly; and should be taken up, slipped,
trimmed, and replanted in a neat regular order.

Thrift, if neatly planted, makes pretty edging to borders, or
flower-beds, both in its evergreen property, and as a pretty
flowering plant in summer. Plant this where required, by the
method directed in the former planting months, and water it at
times, in dry weather, till it is well rooted.

Double daisies, London pride, strawberries, &c, are also
sometimes used for edgings, as observed last month

PLANTING HEDGES.

Finish planting hedges, where intended, as early in the month
as possible ; it may still be performed both in evergreens and
the late shooting deciduous kinds. — See October, November,
and December.

CLEANING THE PLEASURE GARDEN.

Every part of this garden should be now well cleaned and
put into the best order. Give the flower borders, beds, &c, a
general spring dressing, by digging, hoeing, and raking ; let the
edgings of the box, &c, be regulated, where disorderly, and the
gravel walks be well cleared from weeds and litter, and occa-
sionally rolled.

Keep the grass lawns, walks, &c, now well cleared from lit-
ter and worm-cast earth, which appears unsightly, and spoils
the compact evenness of the sward ; give therefore occasional
poling and rolling, as explained last month ; whereby to preserve
a clean, even, firm surface, neat to appearance, as then they
can be mowed close and regular with greater facility.

Mar.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

173

Likewise begin mowing grass lawns, &c, in proper time this
or next month, before growing too rank ; otherwise you cannot
cut close, to have a fine even bottom j being careful in this first
mowing to cut as close and regular as possible without scoring ;
for this has a disagreeable appearance.

And let irregular edges of grass lawns and walks be now cut
evenly close and regular; which will add greatly to the general
neatness.

LAYING TURF.

New grass walks or lawns may still be made any time this
month.

Turf will grow freely if laid now, provided it is laid down
soon after it is cut. It should be well beat after it is laid, and
well rolled after heavy showers of rain, which will render the
surface smooth and firm.

Or in default of turf for laying walks, lawns, &c, may sow it
with grass seed, preparing the ground level, firm, and even,
equally in every part, smoothing the surface; then sow the
seed thickly ; rake it in, with a wooden or other rake, lightly ;
and directly, or when the ground is quite dry, roll the surface
smooth.

GRAVEL WALKS.

Gravel walks should now be kept perfectly clear from
weeds, and suffer no sort of litter to lie upon them.

Roll the gravel walks once or twice a week, when fine dry
weather, which will preserve the surface firm, smooth, and
agreeable to walk upon, and of a desirably neat appearance.

Now is the time to begin to turn gravel walks where the
surface is dirty, &c, first giving any necessary trimming to ad-
joining borders and edgings (see April) ; and then the turning
is effected by digging with a spade in a slanting order, turning
the surface clean to the bottom, and the fresh gravel below
turned to the top, whereby the top foulness, moss, and weeds
will be destroyed, and the walks will appear fresh as when first
made.

,Such gravel walks as were broken up and laid in ridges the
beginning of winter, should now, or next month, be levelled
down and put into proper form.

But this ridging up of gravel walks several months in the
year, gives disorder, in a manner, to the general garden, as well
as being a very unsightly and ineffective work ; and yet is a

174

THE PLEASURE

[M.\R.

common practice among many gardeners, though erroneous in
the intention, and contrary to reason ; as the walks are thereby,
in a great degree, rendered wholly useless in every winter sea-
son ; when, in some gardens, it must certainly be very incom-
modious, both to the proprietor and to the gardener ; and in all
gardens it has a desolate and disagreeable appearance. The
reason some give for this absurd custom is, that it prevents the
growth of weeds ; but it has not the intended effect ; so that I
should advise that all gravel walks might remain always in their
proper form, for constant use, except just turning them in spring,
both to turn down the foul surface, and the numerous small
weeds and moss, often appearing thereon in that season, and to
give the walks a fresh and lively appearance for the spring and
summer.

However, where ridging up the walks in winter has been
practised, let the ridges be levelled down some time this or
next month.

In turning or laying down gravel walks, always choose dry
weather, and the work should be done in the completest regular
order, the walks being a principal part of the garden.

Gravel walks should be made highest in the middle ; but the
rise should be easy, and should come on gradually, from both
sides, finishing them off somewhat rounding, being careful not
to make them too high, or of a sudden rise in the middle ; for
a walk made in that form is uneasy to walk upon, and is also
disagreeable to the eye. A gravel walk of twelve feet wide
should have a gradual rise of about three or four inches higher
in the middle than the sides ; one of twenty-four feet should
not have more than six inches' rise in the middle ; and a walk
of six feet wide should not have more gradual rise in the middle
than two or three inches ; for the method is, that for every foot
the walk is wide, allow from about a quarter to half an inch rise
in the middle ; and by observing nearly the same proportion in
laying walks of different widths, the rise will be sufficient to
give it the requisite gradual swell, and to throw off wet; and if
the walk exceeds twenty-four or thirty feet, that allowance
should be diminished about one-third.

When a gravel walk is made according to the above dimen-
sions, it will be agreeable to the eye, and a person can walk in
any part of it with pleasure ; and there will be slope enough to
prevent water lodging on any part of the surface.

In turning old, or laying new gravel walks, observe to tread,
rake, and roll them every fifteen or twenty feet &s you proceed,

Mar.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

175

especially sandy loamy gravel, as that and most gravel always
rolls more binding and even, while the surface is fresh, neither
too dry, nor rendered wet by rain. This work should always
be done in dry weather. The method is this : —

When you have advanced with the turning or laying the
gravel, about fifteen or twenty feet from the end, let that be
firmly trodden all over equally ; then smooth it off with the
back of the rake, and roll it directly ; then lay, turn, or level
down as much more, and tread, rake, and roll that, and so pro-
ceed to the end of the walk ; for gravel never rakes nor rolls
so well as when fresh stirred ; and therefore should never turn
or level down more than can be finished off, or at least trodden
down the same day, for fear of rain happening, which, in some,
would render it less applicable for raking and rolling completely.

After turning or laying gravel walks, let them be frequently
well rolled.

This is also a proper season to make new gravel walks,
choosing the best coloured good binding gravel, of middling
small size ; and should be laid at least five or six inches thick,
and for which should make a proper excavation accordingly ;
and previously to laying the gravel, it would be advisable to lay
the bottom with some dry, rubbishy materials, lime-rubbish,
drippings of stone, or any rough hard rubbish, or stone rubble,
&c, laid three or four inches thick, or more, which both pre-
vents worm-castings on the walks, and admits of the wet drain-
ing more effectually from the surface.

In laying new gravel, observe the same directions in forming
and laying the walks as in the foregoing intimations.

PLANTING FOREST-TREES.

Forest-trees of all sorts may still be removed ; but any
general plantation of these should be mostly performed in
autumn or winter, or early in spring ; that is, any time in open
weather, from October or November, until February.

For the various sorts of forest-trees, see December, and the
List of Trees and Shmbs.

In planting forest-trees for timber plantations, allow them
the proper distances for the purposes intended; if for close
plantations, or by way of coppices or underwood for gradual
thinning and falling for poles and other small purposes, every
seven, eight, or ten years, &c, may plant them in close rows,
only four, five, or six feet distance ; and when they have attained
the above-mentioned growth, from the time of planting, proper

176

THE NURSERY.

[Mae.

for the first thinning, select the handsomest plants at regular
distances, to stand for timber, and thin the rest; but when de-
signed to have the whole stand for a full plantation of large
standards before any are thinned, plant them at from ten to fif-
teen or twenty feet distance.

THE NURSERY.

GRAFTING.

Graft apples, pears, plums, cherries, &c, this being the
principal season for doing that work.

Having procured grafts of the proper kinds, as mentioned
last month, also a sharp knife, some new bass, and a proper
quantity of well wrought clay, proceed to the work the begin-
ning of the month, and let the same method be practised now as
mentioned in the work of the Nursery last month.

Grafting may also be performed to any desirable varieties of
ornamental trees, &c.

MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT-TREES GRAFTED AND BUDDED LAST
YEAR.

The fruit-trees which were grafted and budded a year ago,
should now have their shoots, which were produced last sum-
mer, shortened, that they may send forth lateral shoots or bran-
ches, to form a regular head near the stock. — See the Fruit
Garden of this month and February.

Let this be done just as the shoots begin to push, shortening
them to four or five. — See the Fruit Garden.

The stocks which were budded the last summer, and in which
the inoculated buds still remain dormant, should now have their
heads cut off, a little above the budded part ; by which means
the whole nourishment will go to the inoculated bud which will
now soon begin to advance in its first shoot. — See Budding,
July.

In proceeding to this, cut the head of the stock off sloping,
behind the inoculated bud, either almost close thereto, or about
a hand's breadth above it ; which part of the stock remaining
above, will serve to which to tie the first shoot from the bud
in summer, to secure it from the wind ; but must be cut down

Maju]

THE NURSERY. ,

177

close next spring. — See last month, and the article of Budding
in July.

SOWING SEED OF DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS.

Now is the time to sow the seeds of many sorts of hardy de-
ciduous trees and shrubs.

For an account of the various sorts which may be raised from
seed, see April, and the List of Trees and Shrubs, at the end
of the book. And as most of the principal seed-shops are gene-
rally furnished with many sorts both of British production, and
great variety of exotic tree and shrub seeds, every year, from
America and other parts, whoever may be inclined to raise any
of the sorts from seed, may be supplied with the sorts they de-
sire from the above shops.

The method of sowing the hardy kinds is either in drills, or
on the surface, and earthed in a proper depth ; or some in large
pots, &c, as below.

Dig a compartment for them where the ground is dry and of
a loose texture, and in a situation not too much exposed ; and
let the earth be perfectly well broken, and make the surface
level ; then divide the piece into beds three feet and a half
wide. Sow the seeds of each sort separate, either in drills, or
some on the level surface, and covered in with earth, as may
seem most convenient, according to the kinds and sizes of the
different seeds, kernels, berries, nuts, &c, taking care that each
sort be covered a proper depth in the earth ; some half an inch,
and others an inch or two inches deep, according to the size of
the seeds, fruits, or nuts. Or any of the more curious or tender
sorts may be sown in pots, to move under occasional protection
from cold, &c, or to forward them in a hotbed.

In dry weather, let the beds be frequently sprinkled with
water ; and when the .sun is hot, a little shading with mats will
be serviceable to some of the more curious and delicate sorts.

PROPAGATING TREES AND SHRUBS BY CUTTINGS.

Tubes and shrubs of many kinds may be propagated from
cuttings; this is a good season to plant them.

Dig one or more beds, &c, for them, where the ground is
somewhat mellow, and not wet; let the earth be well broken
with the spade, and rake the surface smooth.
- Take off the cuttings, with your knife, from the trees or shrubs
uiat you want to increase; let them be of the last summer's
shoots, cutting them off from about six or eight to ten or twelve

H 2

178

THE NURSERY.

[M>R.

inches long, according as they may occur in the different sorts
of trees, &c. ; plant them in rows, each cutting about half way
into the ground, and close the earth well about them ; and in
dry weather let them be occasionally watered.

The cuttings of most kinds of hardy trees and shrubs that
succeed by this method may still be planted, where not done
in autumn or last month.

For an account of the principal sorts which may be raised by
this method, see the Nursery in October.

SOWING HARDY EVERGREENS, SHRUBS, AND TREE SEEDS.

The seeds of most kinds of evergreen trees and shrubs may
now be sown ; such as the cedar of Lebanon, pines, firs, cypress,
juniper, arbor-vitas, Virginia cedars, &c, this being the proper
season to sow these and the like kinds.

The above and most sorts of evergreen tree and shrub seeds,
may be obtained, at this season, at the general seed shops, and
at many of the nurseries.

Dig a compartment of light ground for these seeds, and di-
vide it into small beds ; sow the seed therein, each sort separate,
and cover them with light earth, from about half an inch to an
inch deep. Watering and shading the beds in dry hot weather
will be very necessary, and to continue it occasionally, while
the plants are young.

The strawberry tree or arbutus, may be raised from seed ; and
this is the season to sow it.

But the most certain method is to sow this seed in a hotbed.
The method is this ; fill some small pots with fresh light earth,
sow the seed therein, and cover it near half an inch ; then
plunge the pots to their rims in a hotbed. Sprinkle the earth
frequently with water, and when the plants appear, they should
have a great deal of free air.

These seeds will also grow if you sow them in a bed of natu-
ral earth, but not so expeditiously, nor so certain.

The acorns of evergreen oak may be sown now ; also the
seeds of phillyrea and bays, and other evergreens, in beds of
light earth, and cover the acorns about an inch and a half, ant/
the others not more than an inch deep.

For a further account of the different sort of evergreens,
which may be raised by seed, see the Nursery next month, and
the Catalogue of Trees and Shrubs at the end of the book.

Mab.1

THE NURSERY.

179

TRANSPLANTING YOUNG TREES AND SHRUBS.

Most sorts of young trees and shrubs, both deciduous and
evergreen kinds, may still be removed, either from the seed
bed or other compartments, where they stand too close, and re-
quire planting out in wide nursery rows.

In transplanting the various sorts in nursery rows, some of
the smaller kinds may first be bedded out in close rows, from
six to twelve inches distance, such as the cedars, pines, firs,
and such like evergreens, &c, but the larger seedling plants,
&c., should be planted in wide rows two feet and a half asunder,
and placed about twelve to fifteen or eighteen feet distance in
the row.

Watering after transplantation may be necessary in late plant-
ing, particularly to some of the tender evergreens, &c.

Likewise to some of the more curious, tenderish sorts, it may
be proper to lay some mulch, or some sort of long litter, on the
surface, to prevent the sun and wind from drying the earth too
much about their roots.

PLANTING FRUIT-TREE STOCKS.

Complete planting fruit-tree stocks for grafting and budding
of the proper sorts mentioned last month, for the different kinds
of trees under the article Grafting ; planting them in nursery
rows, two feet, or two and a half asunder, by eighteen inches or
two feet in each row.

WEEDING SEEDLING-TREES AND SHRUBS.

Look over the seed-beds of young trees and shrubs ; if weeds
appear on them, let them be carefully picked out by hand in
time before they mix their roots with those of the plants.

WATERING SEEDLING-TREES, &c.

In dry warm weather it will be proper to' refresh the seed-
bed of small young trees and shrubs with water now and then;
a little at each time will do.

DIGGING VACANT GROUND, &o.

An, requisite digging and trenching of vacant quarters of
ground in the nursery, designed for plantations of young trees;-
shrubs, &c, this spring, should now be completed, as soon as
possible in due time for the reception of the respective plants
intended; which, in the deciduous kinds particularly, should

ISO

THE GREEN- HOUSE.

[Mas.

be mostly or generally finished by the middle or latter end of
this month ; and the evergreen soon after that time— See
April.

Finish all digging between the rows of young trees, &c, this
month ; and also in all parts where planting is intended this
spring.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Open the green-house windows every mild day, that the
plants may enjoy the fresh air freely ; for now they require that
necessary article.

When there is a sharp frost, cutting winds, or a very cold
air, the windows should be kept close ; for such weather would
ruin some of the tender kinds, and would be of bad consequence
to all.

Keep the windows close every night.

Look over the tub or pots every day, and see where water is
wanting, and let such as require it be supplied therewith, tak-
ing care to use moderation in that case. Water will be ser-
viceable to most of the plants, but especially to all the woody
kinds, which will now require more frequent refreshments, if
fine mild weather, but always in moderate quantities ; and be
still careful in the whole not to give too much water at a time,
for that would prove the destruction of many kinds, and would
be prejudicial to the plants in general, especially in a cold sea-
son and while they are confined in the green-house.

Keep every plant in the house free from decayed leaves;
that is, where such appear, let them be immediately picked off ;
for these, if generally permitted to remain, would prejudice the
plants ; besides, they appear disagreeable.

If any decayed or mouldy shoots appear on any plants, cut
them clean off to the firm live wood.

Where dust, or mouldiness, or any sort of filth, appears on
the leaves of the plants, let them be cleared therefrom ; and if
the leaves of the oranges, lemons, and other large-leaved kinds,
are foul, have a sponge dipped in water, cleaning the leaves
therewith, one by one, and let the small-leaved sorts be cleaned
by watering, out of a watering pot, all over their heads.

Maii.1

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

181

HEADING ORANGE OR LEMON TREES.

Where any orange or lemon trees, &c, have decayed, or
irregular unsightly heads, it will now be proper to prune or head
them down, as directed last month ; at the same time, either
give a little fresh earth at the top of the pot, or tub, or shift
them out of the pot or tub, with the ball of earth about the
roots, in order to replace them again with some fresh earth,
either in the same pots, &c, or others a size larger, whereby
they will shoot out with greater vigour, so as to appear, with
full and handsome heads, by the end of July.

Prepare for this purpose a proper quantity of fresh earth : let
this be broken well with the spade, and lay it ready near the
green-house.

Then bring out the trees, and prune their heads as you see
convenient, and cut out all dead wood.

When this is done, either loosen the earth at top of the pots
or tubs, and a little way down round the sides, taking out the
loosened mould, and fill up with fresh compost ; or it may be
more beneficial, if convenient, to shift them into pots, &c, a
size larger, with some fresh earth ; in which case, let the tree
be taken out of its pot or tub, preserving the ball of earth about
the roots entire, as above observed ; then with a knife pare away
from the bottom and sides the dry, matted, and mouldy roots,
with a small part of the old earth, equally round the side of the
ball i this done, put some fresh earth in the bottom of the pot
or tub, and immediately replace the tree, and fill up round the
ball with more earth, bringing it at least an inch over the top
of the ball. *

Give a moderate watering, as soon as they are either fresh
earthed or shifted, to cause the earth to settle close about the
roots.

Then return the trees to their places in the green-house, and
let them be refreshed with water frequently ; but let this be
given in small quantities, just enough to keep the earth about
the roots a little moist.

When they are brought out of the house for the summer
season, let them be placed in a shady situation, and supply them
well with water in dry weather.

By the above culture these trees will push out, in the parts
where headed, many strong shoots, and renew their head, in a
regular set of young branches in a good expansion by the end
ot the summer.

162

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[Mar.

But such orange trees, whose heads are in a very weak or
declining condition, should be treated, if possible, as directed
for such trees in the work of the Green-house last month.

HEADING DOWN MYRTLES, &o.

Where myrtles, or other similar exotics, have decayed
branches, or the heads thin, straggling, and irregular, they may
now also be headed down, more or less, as it shall seem proper,
and either shift them into some fresh earth, as directed above
for the oranges, or some of the top mould within the pots taken
out, and a little round the sides ; then fill up with fresh earth,
and water them.

These trees, with this management, will shoot out again, and
in four or five months' time, will be furnished with entire new
heads. Supply them duly with water.

SHIFTING PLANTS, THAT WANT IT, INTO LARGER POTS.

Any of the oranges, lemons, myrtles, or other green-house
plants, that want larger pots, may be shifted therein, with some
fresh earth, any time this month.

In performing this, let each plant intended for shifting be
drawn out of its present pot with the ball of earth entire ; but
let any thickly-matted or dry mouldy roots on the outside of
the ball, be pared off with a sharp knife ; then set them in their
new pots, and fill up the spaces with fresh earth.

Water them immediately after this, and set them in their
place in the green-house, and they will shoot freely both at root
aud top.

CARE OF GERANIUMS, &c.

Examine the geraniums, and other plants of a similar growth ;
the young shoots being somewhat succulent, are more liable to
injury from the effects of a severe winter, or great damps, than
the harder-wooded exotics, so that sometimes many of them de-
cay or mould ; and which, where they occur, should now be
pruned away : likewise pick off all decayed leaves.

3IVING FRESH EARTH TO THE POTS OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS

The oranges, and green-house plants in general, which do
not require shifting, should at this time, if not done last month,
have some fresh earth added to the tops of their pots or tubs •
It will encourage the plants greatly, and it is soon done.

First loosen the old earth, in the tops of the tubs, or pots>

Mae.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 183

quite to the surface of the roots, but so as not to disturb them,
and loosen it also down round the sides a little way ; then rake
out the loose earth, and fill up the pots with some that is new,
and give them a moderate watering.

SOWING SEEDS OF GB.EEN-HOUSE PLANTS, &c.

A hotbed may be made the beginning of this month to sow
the seeds of tender plants, either of the green-house or stove
kinds. The beds should be made either of hot dung, or fresh
tanner's bark, and covered with frames and glasses, or if made
of hot dung, lay eight, ten, or twelve inches of tan-bark at top,
either new or old, both in which to plunge the pots, &c, and
to continue a longer regular heat.

The seeds should be sown in pots of light earth, and the pots
should be plunged to their rims in the tan, and should be mo-
derately watered at times, as you see occasion.

Where tan cannot be obtained readily, make the bed of hot
dung, two or three feet high ; set a frame on, and when the
burning heat is over, lay on three or four inches' depth of earth ;
then fill some middling small pots with fine light mould : sow
the seeds in the pots, and cover them lightly with sifted earth ;
then plunge the pots in the earth on the bed, and put on the
glasses.

Let the pots in general be frequently sprinkled with water,
and when the plants appear, let them have fresh air by raising
the glasses behind a little way. Observe to keep up the heat
of the bed, by applying a lining of fresh hot dung, when the
heat declines much.

WINTER CHERRY, OR AMOMDM PLINII.

The winter cherry, or amomum Plinii, is much esteemed for
its beautiful red fruit, which it bears in winter. This plant is
easily raised from seed ; this is the season to sow it, and the
method is this : —

Fill some pots with rich earth, sow the seed on the surface,
and cover it with light earth, about the third part of an inch :
then plunge the pots to their rims in a moderate hotbed, and
water them frequently.

When the plants are come up, and about three inches high,
they may be planted singly into small pots, and placed in a
gentle hotbed, where they will soon take root and grow sur-
prisingly, for they are naturally of a quick growth.

They may afterwards he shifted into larger pots, and placed

184

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[Mab.

in the open air, till the middle of October, and be then taken
into the green-house.

SOWING KERNELS OF ORANGES FOR STOCKS.

Now is the time to sow the kernels of oranges and lemons,
in order to raise stocks to bud any of those kinds of trees upon.

The best method of sowing these kernels is this' : — fill some
middle-sized pots with very good earth ; sow the kernels in the
pots, and cover them half an inch deep with earth ; then plunge
the pots into a hotbed, and let them be frequently watered. —
See the Green-house next month.

PROPAGATING BY CUTTINGS, LAYERS, &0.

Propagate, by cuttings and slips, various shrubby green-
house plants, myrtles, geraniums, &c, the young shoots planted
in pots, and if placed in a hotbed, will sooner strike root and
grow freely ; or where there is the convenience of bark beds,
either in a hothouse, or under any glass frames, &c, the myrtle
cuttings and other similar sorts being planted in pots, and
plunged therein, may be struck very expeditiously ; or also, if
at the same time some are covered with a bell-glass, it would
still more expedite their rooting : giving proper waterings.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

NURSING AND SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

The treatment of nursing and succession pine plants, at this
time, being so similar, we shall take them both under one head.
If the weather in the end of last month has been unfavourable
for renewing the tan-beds and shifting the plants, or if it was
thought rather early to do so, we would advise it to be done as
early as convenient this month, according to the directions
given for last month. Attention must be paid to the tempera-
ture, keeping both divisions, as steadily as possible, about the
same degrees as last month, or rather increasing as the weather
improves and the season advances. Air must be freely ad-
mitted, as the state of the weather will allow. As the season
advances, the plants will require water in greater abundance.
Such of them as are just newly shifted, and particularly such of
them as have been disrooted, will not require much water until

Mar.]

THE HOTHOUSE.

185

the plants begin to grow, and their roots have reached the sides
of the pots. When this has taken place, they should be regu-
larly supplied in clear dry weather, and in more or less abun-
dance, as the plants may appear to require. In clear weather,
it is very desirable to syringe them occasionally overhead, to
refresh their foliage, and to keep them clear of dust.

FRUITING FINE PLANTS.

The plants occupying this, department having been regulated
as directed last month, the principal things to be now attended
to are, the temperature and the regular supply of the roots with
water and nourishment. The temperature of the house should
be gradually raised to seventy-two or seventy-five degrees,
allowing it, from the effects of sun heat, to rise to eighty or
eighty-five degrees per two or three hours about the middle of
the day. In cloudy weather, it is sometimes desirable to in-
crease the fire-heat medium a few degrees for an hour or two,
about the middle of the day, to facilitate a change of air, fresh
air being at all times most desirable, and to be admitted as
freely, for a few hours every day, as the state of the weather
will allow. The flues and paths of the house should be abun-
dantly sprinkled with water every night, in order to have a fresh,
humid atmosphere, which is particularly congenial to the nature
of the pines. In clear weather, let them be occasionally
syringed overhead when shut up in the afternoon.

As the plants proceed in growth, and in the formation of
their fruit, they may sometimes have additional nourishment
supplied to their roots, by forming a ring of turf round the mar-
gin of the pots, and filling it up with rich mould, adding a top
dressing of sheep or other rich dung. This top dressing will
encourage the emission of the roots from the bottom of the
stems. Besides the regular supply of water, the roots should
be occasionally watered with liquid manure.

FORCING VINES.

If success has attended the management of this department,
the fruit should be set about the middle of this month. The
temperature should be continued with regularity about seventy
five degrees, and allowed to rise to eighty or eighty-five degrees
with sun heat. Air should be freely admitted every day, being
given and taken away by degrees. When the fruit is set, let
the engine be freely applied twice or thrice a-week, or even

186

THE HOTHOUSE.

[Mar.

every night, when the house is shut up, if the weather is clear.
Let the flues and borders be regularly sprinkled with water.
Let the roots be regularly supplied with water, and occasionally
with liquid manure. The directions given last month for
pruning and training should be duly attended to throughout
this month, to prevent all unnecessary waste of the strength of
the vines by shoots, which may not be necessary for a. future
3rop, and which only tend to shade and confusion. As the
shoots reach their required length, let them be stopped. Such
as have been stopped, if vigorous, will shoot again. The late-
rals should be allowed to run on four joints, and then shortened
to one ; and so on, as they push, till they stop, which they will
generally do before the fruit begins to colour. When the pro-
per shoots have ripened nearly to the extremity, the lateral
shoots may be cut off, at one joint above the originally shorten-
ed part.

FORCING PEACHES.

The temperature should be kept as regular as possible at
fifty-five degrees, allowing an advance, from sun heat, of five or
ten degrees about the middle of the day. Air should be ad-
mitted freely at every opportunity. This, at all times, is parti-
cularly necessary to peaches, as from their habits they are
impatient of confinement ; and' as the shoots, if drawn up weak,
will fall a prey to insects and diseases more readily than any of
the other hothouse plants. The process cf thinning the fruit
should be continued until the shoots be fairly formed. The
quantity removed should be in proportion to the apparent want
of vigour in the tree, to bring them to maturity. The tree
should also be disbudded, and deprived of all superfluous wood;
that their vigour may be preserved, both for maturing the fruit
and the wood left for future crops. The shoots selected to re-
main should be neatly and regularly laid in to the trellis as they
advance, to prevent their being broken by syringeing, or any
other accident, care being had, in tying them, to give sufficient
room for expansion. Water should be supplied to the root?
more liberally as the fruit advances, but still with due caution
until the fruit be fairly stoned. The syringe should be freely
and unremittingly applied to refresh and nourish the leaves, and
keep down that dreaded enemy the red spider. Should the
green fly make its appearance, fumigate with tobacco, M
directed for last month.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

187

FORCING CHERRIES.

Continue the regular supplies of air and water directed for
last month, after the stoning of the fruit. As the fruit ap-
proaches maturity, however, the supplies of water are to be
gradually withdrawn.

RAISING EARLY FLOWERS, FRUITS, &c, IN THE HOTHOUSE.

Pots of any desirable flowering plants may still be introduced
in the hothouse, to forward an early bloom, such as pinks,
hydrangea, roses, hypericum, and many others. — See February,

&c.

Also pots of strawberries and vines, as in the two former
months, to continue the supply of early fruit.*

Likewise a few more kidney-beans, &c. — See last month and
Jamxary.

APRIL.

WORK TO EE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
MAKING HOTBEDS FOR CUCUMBERS AND MELONS.

Hotbeds for cucumbers and melons may still be made both for
successional crops to succeed the early ones ; and if none were
made in the two last months, it may still be done with success,
to have early cucumbers in May and June, &c, and melons in
August.

Observe the same methods of making the bed, sowing the
seed, planting and managing the plants, as in the three former
months.

MANAGING THE BEDS OF EARLY CUCUMBERS AND MELONS.

Let the cucumber and melon hotbeds, which were made a
month or two ago, be carefully examined, and see if they are of
a proper degree of heat.

This should be particularly attended to at this season, for

* In pine-stoves where vines are trained in from without, and conducted up under
the rafters, they will now be well advanced in youiuj shoots, which should be caro-
tully trained in regular order, and pruned as directed in the vinery.

188

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

lArit

these plants will not yield line fruit, nor a plentiful crop, if the
beds are destitute of a proper heat.

Therefore, when you perceive the heat of the beds to be
much failed, let it be renewed as soon as possible. This must
be done by adding a lining of hot dung to the sides of the beds,
in the manner as directed in the three former months.

This will greatly enliven the heat of the beds, by which
means the plants will be preserved in a growing state, and the
fruit will set freely, and they will also- swell kindly, and will
grow to a handsome size.

Air should be admitted to the plants every day. This is done
by raising the upper ends of the lights of the frame with props,
observing to raise them more or less, in proportion to the heat
in the beds, and according as the weather will permit ; raise the
glasses from one to two or three inches high : but in cloudy
days, when there is a sharp air, or high winds stirring, raise the
lights but little at such a time, or sometimes not at all, if very
cold.

For the purpose of raising the lights to admit the air, &c,
you should be provided with wooden props, one for each light,
which should be made wedge-formed, making one end six or
eight inches thick, sloped off to nothing at the other ; and with
those you can readily raise the lights to what height you shall
judge proper, according to the warmth of the bed, or tempera-
ture of the weather.

Let mats be thrown over the glasses every evening, about
sunsetting, and take them off again in the morning, about an
hour or so after it rises, or as "soon as the sun shines fully on the
glasses, when sun-shining weather.

Water the plants occasionally; the cucumbers will require it
often, that is, provided there be a good heat in the hotbed, and
the weather mild and sunny, whyi a moderate watering, once
every four or five days, or a week, will be requisite ; but let this
article be applied in moderate quantities.

Melons should also be watered moderately at times, for they
will require it occasionally I but when these plants are about
setting their fruit, they should be watered very sparingly at that
time, as much humidity would retard its setting, and prevent its
swelling freely.

Let decayed and damaged leaves be taken off as soon as they
appear on the plants, either cucumbers or melons ; also let all
decayed male flowers be taken away ; sparing always a sufficiency
of the fresh blossoms for the office of impregnation, as below

Apr.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

189

In hot days, when the sun is fierce, so as to occasion the
leaves of the melons or cucumbers to flag, it will be proper to
shade them for two or three nuurs, during the greatest heat,
with a thin mat, or with a little loose hay strewed thinly over
the glasses.

Impregnate, or set the young fruit of cucumbers with the
farina of the male blossom. — The flower of cucumbers and
melons are male and female, separate, on the same plant, and
females produce the fruit ; the males are often erroneously called
false blossoms ; and many persons, in consequence of that no-
tion, pull them off ; but they are so far from being false bloom,
that they are by nature designed to impregnate the female
flowers, to render them fruitful ; for the anthers in the centre
of the male blossom being furnished with a fine powder, which
being dispersed on the stigma in the centre of the female, the
fecundation is effected, and the fruit, in a day or two after, will
begin to swell, and which, in cucumbers, will generally, in about
a fortnight, or within a few days under or over, according to the
state of growth of the plants, be arrived to a proper size for
cutting, or gathering for the table, in young green fruit ; so that
without the assistance of the male blossom, the females, having
the embryo fruit at their base, wither and decay, and the infant
fruit turns yellow and drops off.

Therefore it is of importance to preserve a sufficiency of the
male flowers, for the purpose of impregnating the females ; and
in the early culture of cucumbers, &c, it is eligible to carry
some of the males to the female flowers, observing, for this
purpose, to detach some new expanded male blossoms with the
stalk to each, and holding the stalk between the finger and
thumb, and pulling off the petal or flower leaf surrounding the
male organ; then with the remaining anthers, or central part,
touch the stigma in the centre of the female, twirling it about,
so as some of the farina or male powder of the anthers may ad-
here thereto ; a little of which being sufficient to effect the im-
pregnation.

The operation is essentially necessary to be performed by
hand to early plants at this season, that are shut up in frames,
before the lights or glasses can be admitted sufficiently open to
give free access to a large current of air ; or flying insects, such
as bees, &c„ all of which assist in conveying the farina of the
male bloom to the females, as is evident in plants exposed to
the open air.

, The above operation of fecundating, or, as the gardeners

190

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

term it, setting the fruit, should be performed the same day the
flowers open, and are fully expanded : which is the most essen-
tial period of their generative effect.

The female or fruit-bearing flowers are readily distinguished
at sight from the male ; the former having always the germen
or embryo fruit placed immediately under the base of the flower ;
or, in other words, the embryo fruit issues forth with the flower
bud on its top, visible from its first eruption from the stem of
the plant ; but the male blossom is placed immediately on the
top of its foot-stalk without any appearance of germen, or fruit ;
under its base.

The same operation of impregnating or setting the fruit, as
above, may also be practised on melons ; which will have the
same effect as in cucumbers ; but as melons are only eatable
when ripe, it will be five or six weeks before they attain full
size, and mature ripeness.

MAKING HOTBEDS TO PLANT OUT CUCUMBERS AND MELONS,
UNDER BELL OR HAND-GLASSES.

Make hotbed ridges, about the middle or latter end of this
month, for the cucumber or melon plants raised last month, in
order to be planted under hand or bell-glasses.

These hotbeds, for hand or bell-glasses, should at this time
be made the greatest part above ground, not digging deep
trenches, as is often practised, wherein to make them ; for by
that practice, you cannot readily line the beds quite down to
the bottom when the heat declines. The making them in
trenches in May, when either but very moderate linings, or
sometimes not any at all, will be required, is not improper ; but
at this season do not make trenches deeper than about six
inches.

Each bed or ridge should not be less than two feet and a
half thick of dung, but if made a yard high will be more eligible,
by supporting a more durable heat, and should be three or four
feet wide.

But where there is plenty of dung, it will be best to make
them four feet wide ; and if there are more than one range to
be made, may extend them parallel near one another, allowing
a space of at least three or four feet between. — See May.

The beds being made as above directed, then may eithei
earth them directly, or in two, three, or four days after, when
the dung will be settled, and the heat arises to the top of the
bed, laying the earth eight inches thick on every part.

Apr.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

191

When this is done, mark out the holes or places for the
plants at three feet and a half asunder: then set on the bell or
hand-glasses, one over each hole, and keep them close down
till the dung has thoroughly warmed the earth ; then, forming
that under each glass a little hollow, proceed to put in the
plants.

Let two melon plants be set for each glass, but you may
plant three cucumber plants under each : observing, if possible,
to remove and plant them with a ball of earth about their roots,
so as they may not feel much check in their growth by removal.

As soon as they are planted, let them be moderately watered,
to settle the earth about their roots, and directly set on the
glasses; and if sunny weather, and the sun powerful, shade
them a little with a mat over each glass; and the waterings
should be afterwards occasionally repeated once or twice a
week, according to the degree of warmth in the bed, and tem-
perature of the weather ; but let moderation be always observed
in performing this work, especially when newly planted.

Continue to shade the plants occasionally from the sun, when
it is powerful, till they have taken good root in the new earth ;
but when the plants are able to bear the sun without flagging,
let them enjoy it freely.

Let the glasses be covered every night with mats : this
should be constantly practised till the end of May or beginning
or middle of June.

Give air to the plants moderately, every warm sunny day, by
raising one side of the glasses with a prop about an inch, or a
little more or less occasionally, shutting close towards evening
and all night.

SOWING CUCUMBER AND MELON SEEDS.

Sow the seeds of cucumbers and melons the beginning of this
month, to raise some plants to ridge out, under hand or bell-
glasses, in May.— See the directions of last and following
month.

LETTUCES.

Transplant Cos and Cilicia lettuce, or any other sorts that
require it, where they stand close, both those of the winter
standing, and such as were sown in February, or early in the
last month.

Choose a spot of good ground for these plants, and if mode-
rately dunged, it will prove beneficial to their growth : dig the

192 THE KITCHEN GARDiiN. [Apr.

ground evenly one spade deep, and rake the surface smooth,
then plant the lettuces about ten or twelve inches distant each
way ; water them immediately, and repeat it occasionally in
dry weather, till they have taken good root.

Sow Cos and cabbage lettuce ; also the seeds of the large
admirable cabbage lettuce, which is singularly fine; likewise
the Cilicia and imperial, or any other sorts of lettuces, may be
sown any time this month.

Dig a spot of rich ground for them in an open situation; sow
the seed equally, and not too thick, and rake them in lightly.

Repeat the sowings once a fortnight or three weeks, that
there may be a regular succession.

SMALL SALADING.

Sow small salading, generally about every week or fortnight ;
the sorts are cresses, mustard, rape, and radish.

Dig a bed, &c, of light mellow earth for these seeds, and
rake the surface fine. Draw some flat shallow drills ; sow the
seeds therein, each kind separate, and cover them lightly with
earth.

Water them moderately if the weather should be dry, which
will greatly promote their growth.

If those in the open ground are attacked with hoary morning
frosts, and if a sunny day, water it off before the sun comes
strong on the plants, as in the last month.

RADISHES.

Thin the general crops of radishes where they have arisen
too thick, leaving the plants about two or three inches asunder,
and clear them from weeds.

Kadish seed, both of the short-topped and salmon-coloured
sorts, should be sown at three different times this month ; by
which means a constant supply of young radishes may be ob-
tained, allowing about twelve or fourteen days between each
time of sowing ; choosing at this time an open situation for
this seed : sow it evenly on the surface, and rake it well in,
and the plants will come up in a few days at this season, and
be of a proper size for drawing in three or four weeks.

The crops of early radishes, in general, should be often
. watered in dry weather ; this will promote their swelling
freely.

Am.]

I THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

193

TURNIP-ROOTED RADISHES.

Where the turnip-rooted or small round radishes are required,
some seed may still be sown any time this month, both of white
and red sorts ; but most of the white.

They should be sown in an open compartment of light
ground ; and when the leaves of the plants are about an inch
broad, they should be thinned about two, three, or four inches
distance.

But as to the large Spanish turnip-rooted radishes, both black
and white sorts, the principal season for sowing them is in June'
and July ; and those from that sowing will be fit to draw in
August, September, and October, when they will eat very mild ;
but of these, the black is most generally known, and best for
principal culture. — See July.

Hoe and thin the turnip-radishes sown last month to three or
four inches distance.

SPINACH AND BEETS.

Sow spinach for a successional crop in May and June : it will
yet succeed, and may be sown any time this month.

Where a constant supply of this plant is required, you should
sow some seed once a fortnight, as the spring sowings soon run
up for seed ; observing the round-leaved spinach is still the pro-
per sort to sow now, which may be sown either broad-cast and
raked in, or in shallow drills.

Hoe the spinach which was sown in the former month, espe-
cially that of the broad-cast sowings, and thin the plants out to
three, four, or five inches distance.

Beets, if omitted sowing before, may still be sown, of the
different sorts, in the early part of this month. — See March, &c.

GARLICK, SHALLOTS, AND CHIVES.

May still plant garlick, shallots, and chives, as directed in the
two last months.

KIDNEY-BEANS.

Plant kidney-beans, of the early kinds, the beginning or
middle of this month.

Choose a compartment of lightish dry ground for them,
where it is defended from cold winds, and open to the sun ;
draw drills an inch deep, and two feet or thirty inches asunder :
drop the beans in the drills two inches apart, and draw the earth

194

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Apr.

equally over them ; do not cover them more than an inch deep ;
for, if covered too deep at this early time, they are very liable,
many of them, to rot, especially if much rain falls ; and the
plants would rise thin and straggling ; and for the same reason
should, at this time, plant them principally in settled dry wea-
ther.

About the middle or twentieth to the latter part of this month,
may plant kidney-beans for a first main crop ; the proper sorts
are the speckled dwarfs, dun coloured, Battersea, and Canter-
bury dwarfs ; allotting them a free situation and lightish good
ground ; and planted in drills an inch deep and drills two feet
and'half asunder.

ASPARAGUS.

Fork asparagus beds which are not yet done. Let this work
be finished the first week in this month, for the buds or young
shoots will now be forming below in great forwardness. — See
March.

Rake the beds smooth immediately after they are forked.

Asparagus may yet be planted where required, for the plants
will now take root very freely ; but let this work be finished
by the middle of'the month, for these plants will not succeed
well if planted later.

Let the same method be observed in planting them as men-
tioned in the former months.

Sow asparagus seed, if omitted last month, to raise plants for
new plantations, where required, or for forcing. — See Asparagus
last month.

DRESSING AND PLANTING ARTICHOKES.

Where artichokes were not dressed and slipped last month,
it should now be done, for they will now have made their spring
shoots, which will be shot up a little height through the ground.

Let the same method be observed in dressing them, as di-
rected in March.

Plant artichokes where wanted ; they will yet succeed and
have fruit the following autumn, provided you plant them soon
.n the month. — See March.

Choose a piece of good ground for these plants, in an open
situation, and lay some good rotten dung thereon, and dig it in
a proper depth. Let young plants be procured and prepared
. as in last month, and set in rows, four feet and half asunder,

Apr.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

19.5

and not less than two feet, nor more than a yard distance from
each other in the rows, giving a good watering.

PLANTING AND SOWING CABBAGES.

Plant out for full crops. Clear from weeds, and earth up
the crops formerly planted. This will greatly promote their
growth. Of those sown for succession crops in February and
March, the largest may be pricked out into nursery beds, to
get strength for final transplantation. Water them immediate-
ly, and occasionally repeat this in dry weather. The plants
left in the seedbeds, having been cleaned of weeds, should have
a plentiful watering to settle the earth about their roots. For
successional crops, a few of the same kinds mentioned for last
month, should be sown about the beginning and end of this
month.

SAVOYS.

Transplant for full crops, according to the directions for
cabbages in the preceding article. Likewise sow at the be-
ginning and end of the month for full autumn and winter crops.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

May be sown at the beginning and end of the month, for full
crops.

BORE-COLE.

Sow curled bore-cole, sometimes called brown cole and green
cole, for there are two principal sorts, one green and the other
of a dark red or brown colour, are a sort of loose cabbage or
open colewort kind, as they never close, or turn in their leaves
to form any close head, and are excellent for winter and spring

These greens are greatly esteemed for their being so very
hardy as almost to resist the severest cold ; and they boil very
green and tender, and eat extremely sweet, both in their large
top-heads, and the sprouts which arise from the sides of the
stalks, which naturally run up tall, and furnish, besides the top-
head, numerous side sprouts, their whole length, next spring.

The seed may be sown any time this month ; the earlier it
is sown now, the more time the plants will have to grow strong
and tall, both to produce large heads, and great 'afeandance of
side sprouts ; but for a more particular account, see the work
of May.

196

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Apr.

CAULIFLOWERS

The early cauliflower plants under hand-glasses should have
earth drawn up to their stems. This will be of great service in
promoting a strong forward growth.

The hand or bell-glasses may still be continued over these
plants on nights, and cold wet weather : but in warm days, and
when there are warm rains, let them be at such times exposed
to the free air : but when the plants are considerably advanced
in growth, the glasses should be raised proportionably high on
props ; first drawing a border of earth, two or three inches high,
or more, round each plant ; then place the props upon that,
and set the glasses on the props ; but toward the end of this
month, or beginning of next, if the plants are grown consider-
ably large, the glasses should be taken entirely away.

Where any of the winter standing cauliflower plants in frames,
borders, &c, were not finished planting out last month, let it
now be done as there directed.

Young cauliflower plants raised from seed sown last month,
should now be pricked out into nursery beds, or some in a hot-
bed, to forward them for final transplanting. — See March.

The cauliflower plants which were raised from seed early
this spring, should be planted out for good, some of the strong-
est about the latter end of this month, and the rest in May and
June.

Make choice of a piece of good ground for them in a free
situation; some good rotten dung should be spread over the
piece, and dug in. Put in the plants about two feet or thirty
inches distant from each other every way.

Water them immediately after they are planted : and in dry
weather repeat the waterings frequently till the plants have
taken good root : they will produce some middling heads in
July, &c.

BROCCOLI.

Sow broccoli the beginning or middle, and towards the lat-
ter end of this month, to come in for autumn, winter, and early
spring supply ; choose some early purple, to come in for au-
tumn, and late purple to stand the winter, and a proportional
supply of the white or cauliflower broccoli ; sow them in an
open space of light rich ground, each sort separate, and rake
them in evenly ; the plants will soon come up, and be fit to
plant out in June.

Ays.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

197

If any early plants were raised in the former months for au-
tumn use and beginning of winter, let some of them be now
pricked out into nursery beds, to get strength for planting out
finally early in June, &e.— See that article in the work of the
last and following months.

Now, early in this month, mark for seed some of the best
spring-heading broccoli, if not done in March, and permitted to
remain for seeding ; ripening in August.

ONIONS AND LEEKS.

Onions and leeks may be yet sown in the beginning of the
month, for they will not succeed well if sown later, but espe-
cially the onions, which will not bulb effectually : or may now
sow onions on a light, poorish soil, to produce small bulbs for
pickling.

For the method of preparing the ground and sowing these
seeds, see Onions and Leehs in February.

CELERY.

The young celery plants, which were sown in February or
March for an early crop, will be fit to prick out now, some in
the beginning, and others toward the middle or latter end of this
month, into a nursery bed of rich light earth, or in a hotbed, to
bring them forwarder.

Prepare a spot oftrich ground, form it into three or four feet
wide beds, and rake the surface smooth ; then thin out a quan-
tity of the best plants from the seedbed, and plant them into
the above, at about three inches distance ; or may also prick
some of the earliest into a moderate hotbed, to forward them :
then give a moderate watering, and repeat it at times till the
plants have taken fresh root.

The plants should remain in these beds a month or six weeks,
to get strength before they are planted out finally into the
trenches.

_ As these early sown plants, after they become fit for use,
will not continue long before they will run up for seed, there
should not be any larger quantity of them raised or planted out.

Sow some celery seed in the first or second week of this
month, to raise some plants for a general crop, and to succeed
those which were sown in March.

Dig for this purpose a bed of rich light earth, and make the
surface even ; sow the seed thereon moderately thick, and rake
it in lightly : and in dry weather give frequent moderate water-

198

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Apr.

ings, both before and after the plants come up, which being very
essential, should not be omitted.

SOWING CARDOONS.

Where cardoons are required and if the sowing of them was
omitted last month, it may be done the beginning of this : ob-
serving the same method as directed in March.

And for their further culture, see the work of May, June,
and July.

CARROTS AND PARSNEPS.

Carrots may yet be sown for a full crop ; but in order to have
tolerable sized roots in some reasonable time in summer, let the
seed be' sown the beginning of the month.

Where, however, a supply of young carrots is required, it
is proper to perform two different sowings this month ; the first
sowing should be in the beginning, and the second towards the
latter end of the month.

Parsneps may also still be sown in the beginning or middle
of this month j but if sown later, the crop will not succeed
well, at least not to have large swelling roots in full growth.

For the method of sowing both carrots and parsneps see the
work of March.

SOWING NASTURTJJJMS.

Sow nasturtium seed : draw a drill or drills, about an inch
deep, and a yard asunder, or a single drill under any fence, &c,
on which to train the plants in their running growth ; sow the
seed moderately thin, and cover it in regularly with the earth.
— See March.

SOWING POT-HERBS, &c.

Thyme and sweet marjoram should now be sown, if not done
last month : also savory and hyssop.

Choose a spot of light rich earth for these seeds, and having
dug the ground evenly, and divided it into compartments, sow
the seeds on the surface, each sort separate, and rake them in
lightly ; or may be sown in small drills, as observed in March.

Parsley, chervil, and coriander, may yet be sown ; draw shal-
low drills for these seeds ; sow them in the drills, each sort
separate, moderately thick, and cover them with earth about a
quarter -to half an inch deep.

Sow borage and bugloss where wanted ; also clary, angelica

Apii.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

199

lova"e, scurvy-grass, carraway, and carduus; burnet, sorrel,
and marigolds, fennel and dill, may likewise be sown now, the
beginning, middle, or any time this month, each sort separately,
in any beds or borders of common earth, either sown on the
surface, and raked in evenly, or in shallow drills, six inches to a
foot asunder,

PLANTING POT AND SWEET HERBS.

Plant rooted slips of balm, penny-royal, and chamomile, &c,
in the herbary, or places where they are to remain, six to eight
or nine inches distance.

Mint succeeds very well, planted any time this month ; the
method of planting it now is both by slipping the young plants,
and by cuttings of the stalks.

By young plants. — Proceed to some old mint beds, and slip .
off a proper quantity of the strongest young shoots that are
about from three or four to five or six inches high, drawing them
up carefully with a little root to each slip, then plant them in
rows, allowing six inches between each row ; and let them be
set about four inches apart in the lines. Water them as soon
as they are planted, and repeat it frequently in dry weather, till
the plants are well rooted : and they will soon advance in quick
growth, for plentiful use all the summer, and to gather for dry-
ing, &c.

By cuttings. — When the spring shoots in the old beds, &c,
have advanced from about six to ten or fifteen inches high, cut
off a quantity, and divide them into lengths of about half a
foot ; plant them, in rows as above directed, and give a good
watering : they will readily grow and multiply exceedingly.

Root-slips of tansey and tarragon may yet be planted ; like-
wise pot marjoram, burnet, chives, and sorrel.

They should be planted where they are to remain ; allowing
eight or nine inches distance between plant and plant.

Plant top slips of sage ; they will grow fi-eely.

Let the slips be now of the young shoots of last summer,
those of the same year not being fit till next month or June ;
slipping off a quantity of about five, six, or seven inches in length,
and plant them in a shady border, at four or five inches distance,
inserting them into the earth almost to their tops ; water them
frequently in dry weather. They will make good plants by
August or September ; and may then be taken up, and planted
in beds of good earth, at ten or twelve inches distance every
way.

200 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [^pR>

Thyme, hyssop, savory, and winter marjorum, grow freely
from side slips or cuttings, planted any time this month ; or by
slipping the roots and top together, or divided into rooted off-
sets, planting and managing the whole in the same manner as
above directed for the sage.

This is also still a good season to plant and to propagate by
slips, lavender, for its flowers to distill, &c, also rue, rosemary,
and lavender cotton, in smaller portions, for domestic occasions :
all propagated by small branch slips or cuttings of the young
wood ; and may also plant wormwood.

Let the slips or cuttings be shoots of last summer, four or
five to six or eight inches long. Plant them in a shady border,
about six inches asunder, and each about half way in the ground'.
Let them be frequently watered. In September they may be
taken up, and planted where they are to remain, allowing them
a foot distance.

Note. — Rooted full plants of all the above herbs and aroma-
tics, may also be planted now for immediate occasions.

CAPSICUMS, LOVE-APPLES, AND BASIL.

Sow capsicum and love-apples for their fruit to pickle, and
for soups, ■See., also basil, if omitted last month, the beginning
or middle of this, being still a proper season for that work, sow-
ing them in a hotbed, as directed in March.

TURNIPS.

Toknips may be sown any time this month for a full summer
crop ; this seed is of a quick growth, and the plants will appear
a few days after the seed is sown.

Let this seed be sown in an open spot of ground, moderately
thin and as equally as possible ; tread it down regularly, and
rake it in with a light and even hand.*

Hoe and thin the early turnips which were sown the two
former months, leaving the plants seven or eight inches distant
from each other.

SCORZONERA AND SALSAFY.

Sow scorzonera and salsafy about the middle of this month,
for the principal crop. These which are sown earlier than that
time, are apt to run up for seed before the roots acquire their

We^aY Pre£r «ie drill system for turnips : let the drills be about an inch
deep aud a foot or nlteen inches apart.

Apr.]

THE KlTCHRk GARDEN.

201

due size, especially the scorzonera, and are thereby rendered
useless.

Sow them separately, in open situations, and rake them in,
or sow in drills, twelve or fourteen inches asunder.

They will require thinning in May or June to five or six
inches distance, and the roots will attain perfection in autumn,
and continue good all winter till spring following ; are by many
much esteemed, both to boil and eat like young carrots, and in
soups, &c, and the salsafy likewise for its young top shoots in
spring.

PURSLANE.

Purslane may be sown now, if warm dry weather, on a bed
of light rich earth, in the common ground. Sow it either in
drills six inches asunder, or evenly on the surface, and rake it
in lightly and regular. Water the bed often in dry weather, and
shade it from the hot sun till the plants are come up, and have
gotten a little strength.

But if cold or very wet weather, sow some either in a hot-
bed, under shelter of glasses, or in a warm dry border, and de-
fended from cold, &c.

This plant being of a moist cold nature, is by many people
much esteemed to use in summer salads.

beans.

Plant more beans : this should be done at two or three dif-
ferent times this month, allowing twelve or fourteen days be-
tween each time of planting ; in order thereby to have a plenti-
ful regular supply of young beans in good perfection.

The long podded beans are a proper kind to plant at this
time. This bean is a remarkably great bearer ; it is also a very
fine eating bean, if gathered while young ; and is a very profit-
able bearer for the use of a family. They may be planted any
time this month, allowing the distance of two feet and half, or
a yard between the rows.

The Windsor bean, Toker, and the Sandwich, or any of the
large kinds of beans, may yet be planted.

Let these be also planted in rows, a yard at least asunder.

But in planting the above, or any other large kind of beans, if
you allow the distance of three feet and a half between the rows,
you might then have a row of savoys between, planted next
month, or June ; and if four feet asunder, may plant two rows
I 2

202

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Apr.

either of those or spring-sown cabbages, to come in for autumn
and winter service.

The white-blossom beans are great favourites with many
people ; they may also be planted any time this month. Let
the rows be two feet and a half asunder.

These beans are but small, but none excel them for eating
whilst young ; and they are plentiful bearers, for their stalks
are generally loaded with pods, from the very bottom to the
top.

Any other sorts of beans required to increase the variety,
may now be planted, such as the scarlet-flowered, &c.

Draw earth to the stems of all sorts of beans which are come
up ; this should be done when the plants are from about three
to four or five inches high, and it will greatly strengthen and
forward their growth.

PEAS.

Sow peas to succeed those sown in March. Where a con-
stant supply of peas is required, there should be some sown at
least every fortnight or three weeks.

The marrowfat and Spanish naoratto, being of the large kinds,
are both very fine eating, peas and great bearers, and are very
proper kinds to sow at this season ; likewise the rouncival is a
line large pea for a late crop ; but any other of the large kind
of peas may be sown any time this month.

The hot-spurs, or any of the smaller kinds of peas are also
proper to be sown now, if required : also any of the dwarf sorts ;
for most sorts will succeed if sown any time in this month.

Draw earth to such rows of peas which are come up and ad-
vanced a little height. This will strengthen the plants, and
forward them greatly in their growth.

The earthing should always be performed for the first time
when the plants are about three or four inches high;

Set sticks to peas where you intend it, for them to climb
upon. This should be done when the plants are about five 01
six inches high, observing to have sticks of a proper height ;
that is, for the marrowfat and other large peas, they should be
six or seven feet high ; but those of four or five feet will do for
tne hot-spurs, and other small sorts of peas, placing two rows of
sticks to each row of peas.

Apr.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 208

POTATOES.

Potatoes may yet be successfully planted, if it was omitted
in the last month ; but they should be planted the first or second
week in this month, that they may attain good perfection for
use forward in autumn, and full growth by October.

For the method of planting these roots, see the work of
March.

DESTROYING WEEDS.

Weeds will now begin to appear plentifully, from seed, in
every part of the garden. The utmost diligence should be used
to destroy them while they are young, before they get the start
of the crops ; especially towards the middle and latter end of
this month, when, if a forward season, they will be advancing
in rapid growth.

Pay particular regard, at that time, to your small crops ; as
onions, carrots, parsneps, and the like ; weeds grow much
quicker than they do ; and if they are not weeded in time,
either by small hoeing or hand weeding, the weeds will soon
overtop the plants, and occasion much labour and trouble to
clear them.

Take the opportunity of dry weather, and hoe the ground
between the rows of beans, peas, cabbages, and cauliflowers,
and other crops that stand wide, to destroy the weeds.

A large piece of ground may soon be gone over with a hoe,
when the weeds are small ; but when they are permitted to
grow large, it requires double labour to destroy them.

SEA-KALE.

May yet sow seed of the sea-kale, as directed last month, if
then omitted.

Or, where required, may also transplant year-old plants, now
advancing in shoots, either from seed beds or former pricked
out beds, or transplanted rows, &c, and planted for a crop
where wanted, in beds finally to remain.— -See March.

GOURDS AND PUMPKINS.

Now you may sow the seeds of vegetable marrow gourds and
pumpkins. — See the List of Plants.

The fruit of these plants being sometimes used, both when
quite young, and in their more advanced and mature growth,
for culinary purposes, a tew may be raised for these occasions.

204

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Apr.

With respect to sowing the seeds of any of the above sorts
it is to be observed, that, in order to bring the plants forward'
to produce fruit as soon as possible, and to ripen early in
autumn, they must be sown in a hotbed, either under a frame
and lights, or in a smaller hotbed for one or more hand or bell
glasses, &c, earthing the bed five or six inches thick ; and, in
either of which, sow the seed about half an inch to near an inch
deep, and directly put on the glasses, observing also, to throw
a mat, &c, over the bed on nights. When the plants appear,
give plenty of air every day, by raising the glasses ; for they
must be brought by degrees to bear the open air fully,- to harden
and prepare them for transplanting in May.

But these seeds should not be sown until about the middle
or third week in the month ; and they will be ready to transplant
by the third or fourth week in May, which is as soon as they
can generally thrive in the full open air.

But if required to have any of the curious sorts of these
plants to produce ripe fruit as early as possible, sow the seed
as above, about the middle of the month, either in the places
where they are to remain, upon holes of hot dung, covering
them with hand-glasses until the end of May, or may be raised
in a hotbed, as before directed, and planted out under hand-
glasses ; or for want of such, plant them close under a warm
fence in May.

But for the method of their further culture and proper places
to plant them in finally, see the work oiMay.

However, as to the common pumpkin, it being rather too
rampant to raise as above, and is more advisable to sow it in
May, in the place where the plants are to remain; as may
likewise any of the gourd kinds. — See May.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

PLANTING FRUIT TREES.

Fruit trees may yet be planted where required. The sorts
which will now succeed are apples, pears, plums, and cherries.
• But. rather than lose a season, you may also venture to plant
apricots, peaches, and nectarines, or any other sorts of fruit
trees ; for most sorts will yet take root tolerably well, though
probably they will not shoot so freely, nor be able to resist the

ArR.l

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

205

drought in the summer so well as those which were planted a
month or two sooner. Observing, however, that where late
planting is from some cause unavoidable, and having a previous
knowledge thereof, it would in that case be highly proper to
take up the trees some time before, to check their shooting,
and lay them by the roots in a trench of earth, till they can be
planted.

Where, however, it is intended to plant any of the above
kind of fruit trees now, let them be planted the first or second
week in the month, if possible, for they will not take root so
well, nor grow prosperously, if planted later.

When they are planted, let every tree have a large water-
ing ; it will cause the earth to settle in close among their roots,
and prepare them for striking forth fresh fibres. Let the water-
ings be repeated in dry weather, about once a week or fortnight.

New planted trees in general, but particularly such as are
planted late in the spring, should be frequently watered in dry
weather ; but once in a week or ten days, or thereabouts, will
be often enough. In doing this, give a sufficient watering to
reach the roots effectually; and let their heads be sometimes
watered as well as their roots.

To preserve the earth moist about the roots of new-planted
trees, let some mulch be spread on the surface of the ground,
round their stems : this will keep out the effects of sun and
wind, and the earth will retain a due moisture, with the assist-
ance of a moderate watering now and then.

DESTROYING INSECTS ON FRUIT .TREES.

Insects often do much damage to fruit trees, if not prevented.
This is the time they begin to breed on the buds, leaves, and
new advancing shoots of young trees, and also frequently on
those of older growth. Proper means should be used to destroy
them in time, before they spread over the general branches.

Wall trees in particular, more especially peaches and necta-
rines, &c, being the most liable to their depredations, should
be frequently looked over.

Where you perceive any of the leaves of these trees to have
a crumply, deformed appearance, clammy, &c, it is a certain
sign of insects. Let the worst of these leaves be taken off as
soon as they appear : and if the ends of any of the young shoots
are also attacked, prune away such infected parts : and if fur-
nished with a garden watering engine, it would be greatly ser-
viceable therewith to dash the branches with water in dry wea-

206

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

ther ; which, and the other above precautions, if proceeded to
in time, will do a great deal in preventing the mischief from
spreading considerably.

Or where wall trees are much infested, first pull off all the
curled or crumpled leaves; then get some tobacco-dust, and
scatter some of it over all the branches, but most on those
places where the insects are troublesome. This should be
strewed over the trees on a morning, and let it remain. It
will greatly diminish the vermin, and not injure the leaves or
fruit.

But fruit trees are also sometimes attacked by insects of the
caterpillar tribe, contained numerously in a minute embryo state
in small webs, deposited on the branches, &c, animated by the
heat of the weather, soon overrun and devour the young leaves,
whereby neither the trees nor fruit prosper in growth ; which
'should therefore be attended to occasionally, especially in young
trees, picking off the webs, &c, before they animate considera-
bly ; and if accommodated with a watering engine, above sug-
gested, might play the water strongly upon the trees ; so as, in
the whole, to diminish the increase and spreading depredations
of the vermin as much as possible.

FINISHING ALL PRUNING.

All winter pruning that still remains to be done should now
be wholly completed, in all kinds of wall and espalier trees, and
others, as soon as possible, especially in the forward-blossoming
wall trees, &c, as apricots, peaches, nectarines, which will be
considerably advanced in blossom buds, and probably some in
full bloom, and therefore should be forwarded in the pruning
with particular care, finishing the whole early in this month.

Likewise in cherries, plums, pears, and apples, that still re-
main unpruned, lose no time now in forwarding that work,
first the cherries and plums, then the pears and apples.

And any vines and figs not pruned, give particular attention
to have these finished as soon as possible, in the beginning 01
middle of this month at farthest.

PROPAGATING VINES.

May still plant cuttings of vines to raise a supply of new
plants ; and for the method, see the work of March.

Vines are also propagated by layers ; and it is not. yet too
ate to lay them : observing that the one or two years' shoots
are the proper parts to lay, laying them three or four inches

Apk.]

THE FRDIT GARDEN.

207

deep in the earth, together sometimes, where convenient, with
that part of the branch the shoots proceed from, leaving about
three buds of the young shoots out of the ground.

They will be well rooted by Michaelmas ; then they may be
separated from the old plants, and planted either in a nursery
bed for a year or two, or where they are finally to remain.

BEGINNING THE SUMMER DRESSING OF VINES.

Vines against the walls should be looked over about the
latter end of this month ; they will, by that time, if a forward
season, be advancing in numerous spring shoots, and the useless
ones should be displaced.

In looking over the vines, observe, at this time, to displace
only such shoots as appear to be absolutely useless ; there
generally arises many small shoots from the old branches ; but
as these, from the old wood, seldom produce grapes the same
year, therefore let most of them be rubbed off close, except in
such places where a supply of new wood is, or will apparently
be wanted, which should be well attended to, and leave for the
present all the shoots which arise from the last year's wood, or
the same year's bearers : but where two shoots arise from one
eye, take the worst away, the remaining one will grow stronger,
and its' fruit be superior in proportion.

Let it be observed, that this dressing or displacing of useless
shoots is, at this early time, to be performed chiefly with the
finger and thumb, rubbing the shoots off close.

The useless shoots being cleared away, the useful ones, when
of due length, should be trained close to the wall, in a regular
manner, so that each may equally enjoy the advantage of the
sun and air, to promote its growth, together with that of the
fruit.

By the above early regulating the grape vines, the bunches
of grapes will advance freely in their proper growth, larger,
more regular, and ripen sooner in greater perfection, than when
the vines are suffered to run into confusion ; besides, the work
can be performed considerably sooner, and with much greater
requisite correctness, regularity, and essential effect, both to
the vines, and prosperity of the fruit..

The vines in the vineyard should now have stakes placed to
them. If it was not done before, let this he done the beginning
of the month.

Fix the stakes firmly in the ground ; then let the vines be
tied to them neatly, and at regular distances.

208

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Apr

The ground between the rows of vineyard vines should ba
kept perfectly free from weeds ; for keeping the surface of the
ground quite clean between the vines in this order of culture
proves of particular advantage in promoting a forward or free
growth in the advancing young fruit.

Therefore, when weeds make their appearance, let the hoe
be applied to them in a dry day, and destroy them before they
arrive at any considerable growth.

For protecting the blossoms of wall trees, see the foot notes
on this subject in March.

RUBBING OFF THE USELESS BUDS OF WALL TREES.

Begin to look over apricot, peach, and nectarine trees, about
the latter end of this month, and rub off the new advancing ill-
placed fore-right shoot buds, and other irregular growths, and
such young shoots as are evidently useless or unnecessary.

That is to say, all shoots which are produced directly fore-
right, on the front of the branches, should be rubbed off close.
And, likewise, all such shoots as arise in parts of the tree where
they are evidently not wanted, and such as are situated in
places where they cannot be regularly trained to the wall,
should also at this time be displaced, or others thinned, where
greatly superabundant.

But let it be observed that all regular placed side shoots and
leaders, and such others which are anywise properly situated
for laying in, must be left; and should, when of a due length,
in the two succeeding months, be trained to the wall, close and
in a regular manner.

For more particulars respecting the summer dressing of these
trees, see May and June.

THINNING WALL FRUIT.

Thin apricots, where they are produced too thick on the
trees, especially where they are in clusters? and the young fruit
a little advanced in growth, nearly as big as the largest peas, or
the end of a little finger, which they sometimes are, in forward
springs, by the latter end of this month, which will be time
enough to begin that work.

Observe, in thinning them, to leave the most promising and
best shaped fruit ; but do not leave the fruit so close together
as, in their advancing growth, to thrust one another ofT the
branches.

Begin at one side of the tree, and look over the branches

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

209

legularly one by one ; and single out in each branch the fruit
which you would leave at proper distances, and let all the rest
on that branch be cleared away ; then go to the next, and so
proceed from branch to branch, in a regular manner. — See next
month.

The young green fruit thinned off as above may generally
i be saved for tarts, for which they are excellent ; and will now
be highly acceptable for that occasion.

GRAFTING.

Grafting may yet be performed, if required.

The sorts which will yet succeed are some of the late kinds
of apples, pears, and plums ; but they must be grafted the be-
ginning of the month ; for they will not succeed well if done
iater than that time.

OF THE NEW-GRAFTED TREES.

New-grafted trees should now be often looked over, to see
if the clay keeps close about the grafts, it being apt to crack,
and sometimes fall off. Where you find it any way defective,
so as to admit the air and wet to the graft, let the old clay be
taken off, and add some new in its stead.

All those shoots which rise from the stock below the graft
must be taken off constantly, as they are produced ; these, if
permitted to remain, would rob the graft of nourishment, and
prevent it shooting freely.

NEW-BUDDED TREES.

Look also over new-budded trees ; that is to say, those that
were budded last summer ; they will now begin to advance in
their first shoots, proceeding immediately from the inoculated
bud, which, having remained dormant from its insertion in the
stock last summer till this season, will now push forth each one
strong shoot, to form the beginning of the future new tree of
the desired sort. Examine, therefore, the young shoots, and
look with a careful eye for insects, which sometimes attack
them, if very dry weather. If the leaves curl up, insects are the
cause of it ; and, if not prevented, will spoil the shoots in their
first growth. Let the curling leaves be carefully picked off; it
will prevent the mischief spreading farther.

Suffer no shoots to remain that come from the stock. Let
them be taken off as often as they shoot out, leaving nothing
that may draw nourishment from the bud-shoots of inoculation

210

THE PLEASURE

[Apu.

• STRAWBERRY BEDS.

Strawberry beds should now be kept perfectly free from
weeds. The runners produced from the plants should be con-
stantly cleared away as they advance. But where new planta-
tions are wanted, let some of the first produced runners remain
till June to form young plants, then to be transplanted, as
directed in that month.

Water the beds of fruiting plants frequently, in dry weather,
towards the latter end of the month, when they begin to ad-
vance for bloom; for, if they are not supplied with that article,
in a dry time, the fruit will be smaller, and of less abundant
production.

EARLY FRUITS IN FORCING.

Let the same care be taken of the early fruits of all kinds
now In forcing, as directed last month and February.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN.

TENDER ANNUAL FLOWER PLANTS.

Make a new hotbed, wherein either to sow seed, or trans-
plant young plants of the best kinds of the early raised tender
annuals, which were sown in February, or beginning or any
time in March.

Such as cockscombs, double balsams, and globe-amaranthus,
egg-plant, double stramonium sensitive plant, and diamond
flcoides, or ice-plant, and marvel of Peru, &c.

Where these curious plants are required in any tolerable
degree of perfection, they must, at this time, be brought for-
ward, by the assistance of a regular and due degree of hotbed
?ieat under frames and glasses ; and where that is properly at-
tended to, the plants will be large and beautiful by the middle
or latter end of June, or the beginning of July.

Therefore, such of those tender annuals as were raised by
sowing at the end of February, or any time last month, should
now have another hotbed, in which to prick or plant them to
forward their growth as above ; and as directions are given in
March, that such of these tender plants as were raised early be
pricked out from the seedbed, in a new hotbed, three or four

Ape.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

211

inches asunder, and which distance being sufficient room for
them to grow for about three weeks or a month, when they will
be so far advanced in their growth as to interfere with each
other ; they must then be allowed a greater distance, either by
transplanting the whole, or by thinning and removing some of
them into another fresh hotbed, which may be made any time
in this month, as you shall see occasion, in regard to the growth
of the plants.

Make the hotbed for the above purpose of the best hot dung,
Such as has been first very well prepared ; and let the bed be
made two feet and a half high, and set a frame and glasses
thereon, raising the lights behind to pass off the rank steam.

When the burning heat of the bed is over, lay in the earth ;
this must be light and rich, 'not sifted, but very well broken
with the spade and hands, and must be laid six or seven inches
thick on every part within the frame : and when the earth has
been on the bed twenty-four hours, it will then be in a right
condition to receive the plants.

The hotbed being ready, then take up the plants, either
wholly, or part of them in a regular thinning order, very care-
fully out of their present bed, with a ball of earth, or as much
as will conveniently adhere about their roots, and plant them
in the new bed, about six inches distant each way ; or some
also in pots singly, and plunged in the hotbed ; then give the
whole a light watering, to settle the earth properly about then-
roots ; directly put on the glasses, and let the plants be shaded
from the sun till they have taken fresh root, by throwing a sin-
gle mat over the glasses at those hours when the sun is so
powerful as to occasion the plants to flag. Observe to raise the
glasses behind a little way every day, to let the steam of the
bed pass freely off; and if there should be much steam in the
bed, let the glasses be also raised a little at one corner at nights,
and hang a mat before the place ; and when the plants have
struck fresh root, and begin to push, let them have air admitted
freely every mild and calm day, to strengthen them, by raising
the upper ends of the lights one to two or three inches; but
must be shut down every night, provided there be no great
steam ; and let the glasses be always covered every night with
mats.

Remember to refresh the plants often with moderate water-
ings, for it will greatly promote their growth.

When the plants have advanced in height near to the glasses,
then let the frames be raised at bottom, about six inches, in

212

THE PLEASURE

[Apb.

order to give them full liberty to shoot ; and, according as the
plants rise higher, continue to raise the frame in proportion, in
the manner as directed in the work of next month. At each
time of raising the frame, observe to close up the vacancy
below, by laying some litter round the bottom of the
frame.

For the particular method of managing the above frame, see
the work of May.

The above practice of occasionally raising the frame, accord-
ing as the plants advance in height, is only principally necessary
where it may be required to have any particular larger growing
sorts of these tender annuals drawn up in a strong growth and
tall stature, as was formerly in much request, such as the giant
cockscombs, tricolors, &c, which sometimes, by that means, are
run up four to five or six feet high ; and in the cockscombs,
the stem-crowned by a very large crested flower-head ; but as
the culture in drawing these kinds in tall growth being attended
with a great deal of particular care and trouble, it is not now so
generally practised as formerly, especially as the same kinds of
plants in moderate growth are more conveniently raised, and
better adapted for general occasions.

But where there is the convenience either of a drawing
frame or glass case, for the purpose of drawing the tall growing
cockscombs, tricolors, and other curious annual plants, it may
be effected to greater advantage.

The drawing frame is either one entire deep frame, or com-
posed of two, three, or more different frames, all of the same
length and breadth ; and each about nine or ten inches deep,
except the frame of the glasses, and that must be twelve inches
deep in front, and eighteen at the back : and being all of equal
dimensions in width and length, made in a very exact manner,
to fix one to the top of another, appearing as but one frame,
when all thus joined; and are to be made use of in the follow-
ing manner :■ — -

Begin first with the deepest frame ; then when the plants
have reached the glasses, let the said frame be taken up, and in
its place set one of the others, and immediately fix the deepest
frame upon that, as above ; and then, when they have fillec
that space, let another frame be added ; observing, as above, tc
let the deepest or sloping frame be always placed uppermost,
in order to receive the glasses. — For a description of the glass-
case for this occasion, see Flower Garden of May.

As to those cockscombs, tricolors, balsams, and the like kinds,

Ape.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

213

which were sown in the middle or latter end of March, they
vill now be ready to prick out.

They must, in order to bring them forward, be pricked out
ipon a new hotbed ; therefore, let one be prepared for them
the beginning or middle of this month, making it about two
feet, or two and a half high in dung. Set on a frame, and lay
in five or six inches depth of rich earth ; then removing the
plants from the seed-bed, prick them in this at three or four
inches distance from each other ; give them a very moderate
watering, put on the glasses, and shade the plants carefully
from the sun, till they have taken good root. Let the glasses
be raised every day, as occasion requires, to let the steam out,
and also to admit fresh air to the plants.

These plants are to be managed, in every respect, as direc-
ted above for the early raised plants of the same kinds.

Sowing any of the above kinds of tender annuals, if omitted
in the two former months, may still be done : and the plants
raised from this sowing, may be brought to flower in July,
August, &c.

The sorts which you may yet sow are cock'scombs, tricolors,
balsams, globe amaranthus, egg plants, and also the ice plant,
or any other sorts, observing the same method in sowing as
directed in February and March.

PRICKING OUT AND SOWING LESS TENDER ANNUALS.

A slight hotbed should also be made now to prick some of
the second class, or less tender annual plants upon, which were
raised last month.

The principal sorts are, marvel of Peru, China asters, India
pinks, ten-week stocks, mignonette, French and African mari-
golds, and chrysanthemums, likewise common balsams, basil,
capsicums, and love apples, yellow sweet-sultan, persicaria, tree
amaranthus, purple amaranthus, prince's feather amaranthus,
love-lies-bleeding amaranthus, convolvulus major, scarlet con-
volvulus, palma Christi, scabious, alkekengi or winter cherry,
tobacco plant, zinnia, Indian corn, gourds, &c, all of which, if
pricked out upon a moderate hotbed, may be forwarded consi-
derably to a flowering state.

Therefore, where convenient, in having a proper supply of
hot dung and frames, &c, it is advisable to prepare a moderate
hotbed about the middle or any time of this month, to prick
out a quantity of the principal sorts of the above ; make the
bed only about two feet thick of dung ; and having set on a

214

THE PLEASURE

[Apr.

frame, earth the bed six inches thick ; then draw out of the
seed-bed some, of the strongest plants, and prick them in the
new bed, three or four inches distant, and give a little water ;
and likewise prick some in pots, placed also in the hotbed ; then
put on the lights, and allow shade from the sun, till the 1 plants
have struck root ; being careful to admit fresh air daily, and re-
peat the waterings occasionally. Or, in default of frames, &c,
to place over the above hotbed, may cover with an awning of
mats ; or also in want of hotbeds, may prick them in a bed of
natural earth, about the latter end of the month, fix some hoops
across, and let the mats be drawn over them every night, and
also occasionally in the daytime, when the weather is very
cpld, by drawing them over the north side particularly, to break
off the cutting air, and leave the front next the sun open. The
plants are to remain in these beds about a month, or five or six
weeks : then let them be taken up with a ball of earth about
their roots, and planted in the borders, or where they are to re-
main to flower ; and plant some of the more curious sorts in pots.

The seeds of French and African marigolds, and chrysanthe-
mums, may yet be sown ; likewise balsams, marvel of Peru,
China aster, and India pink, love apples, capsicums, ten-week
stocks, mignonette, and of all the other kinds before mentioned.
See Second Class of Annuals.

Let the above seeds be sown in a moderate hotbed, in the
first or second week of the month ; let the bed be often refreshed
with light sprinklings of water, both before and after the plants
appear. Where there is no frame to spare, the beds may be
arched over with hoops, and covered with mats every night,
and in bad weather. When the plants appear, let them have a
great deal of free air, by taking the covers entirely off every
mild day ; but let them be sheltered at night, and in bad wea-
ther, as aforesaid.

Towards the middle or latter end of May, the plants will be
fit to prick out, which must be into beds of light earth in the
natural ground ; and when they have stood there a month or five
weeks, they must be taken up with balls of earth, and planted
in the borders, pots, &c.

Where there is not the conveniency of hotbeds in which to
sow and raise this class of annual flowers, may sow most of
them in a warm border ; especially towards the middle or latter
end of the month, or when the weather is become settled and
warm, or sown in the beginning or middle of the month, and
defended on cold nights, &c, with mats.

Apk.]

OE FLOWER GARDEN.

215

SOWING HARDY ANNUALS.

Hardy annual flower seeds may yet be sown in the borders
and other parts of this garden, in the places where they are to
remain to flower, and in pots, &c.

The sorts which will yet succeed are, convolvulus major and
minor, the Tangier and sweet-scented peas, Moldavian balm,
white alysson, cyanus, and nasturtiums ; likewise lupines, larkl
spur, flos Adonis, and sweet sultans, poppy, hawk weed' also
candy tuft, dwarf lychnis, nigella, alkekengi, Lobel's catchfly
Venus' navelwort and looking glass, virgin stock, snails, hedge-
hogs, caterpillars, scarlet pea, crown pea, winged pea, dwarf and
large annual sunflower, persicaria, belvidere, and lavateras,
oriental mallow, strawberry spinach, xeranthemum, and all other
kinds of hardy annuals — See the List of Plants.
. Let the above hardy annual seeds be sown in small patches
in the borders, beds, pots, &c, to remain in the manner men-
tioned in the two former months ; or some virgin stocks may be
sown in a drill for an edging.

Let them be frequently watered in dry weather, both before
and after the plants come up.

When the plants have been up about a fortnight or three
weeks, let all the larger growing kinds be thinned where they
have risen too thick; observing to clear away the weakest, and
leave the strongest plants standing ; allowing each kind, accord-
ing to its size, full room to grow.

For example, most of the sorts, except the sunflower and
persicaria, &c, should be left several in each patch, some more
some less, according to their nature of growth : but leave only
one plant of the sunflower, persicaria, and belvidere, in each
patch ; and of the lavateras, oriental mallow, and strawberry
spinach, leave only two or three plants in each place.

Any of the smaller or moderate growing kinds of the above
annuals may also be sown in pots, as scarlet and sweet peas,
candy-tuft, lupines, larkspurs, ten-week stocks, mignonette
virgm-stock, convolvulus minor, &c.

TEN- WEEK STOCKS AND MIGNONETTE.

May now sow ten-week stocks and mignonette in any warm
border, or bed of light earth, or in pots, &c, for transplanting,
sowing either on the surface separately and raked in evenly,
or covered in lightly with fine earth ; or may sow them thin in
drills ; they will soon come up, and be fit for transplantation in

216

THE PLEASURE

[Apr.

May and June ; or some of each of these may be sown in small
patches in the borders, and in pots, &c, to remain ; and the
plants thinned, especially the stocks, to three or four in each
patch.

CARE OF HYACINTHS AND OTHER CHOICE FLOWERS.

Hyacinths and tulips, ranunculuses and anemones, will now
be coming fast into bloom.

The more curious and valuable varieties of these flowers,
which are planted together in beds, deserve particular care.
Heavy rains, cutting or strong winds, and sharp frosts, would do
them much harm ; and the sun, if permitted to shine upon them
fully, would bring on the decay of the flowers in a short time.
If they are therefore screened from all these occasionally, by a
covering of hoops and mats, it will not only preserve the beauty
of the flowers, but will continue them longer in bloom. The
hoop must be kept constantly over the beds ; and the mats, or
canvas, always in readiness, in order for drawing on whenever
it is necessary for the defence of the flowers. Observing, the
hoops or arches should now be erected higher, to admit of
viewlug the flowers more readily, which may be effected by
nailing them to stakes arranged at a due distance on each side
of the beds.

When the plants are in bloom, let the mats be drawn over
the hoops every sunny day, about nine or ten o'clock, and let
them remain till four or five in the afternoon, and then take
them off again.

The mats should also be drawn on at all times when it rains
hard, and when the winds are strong, for such weather would
beat down the flowers and break their stalks.

The flowers should also be sheltered every night when there
is an appearance of bad weather.

Observe, however, the above care of covering, &c, is only
advised for some of the finest or more valuable sorts in beds, to
continue their bloom beautiful as long as possible ; and as to
the common sorts, whether growing in beds together, or dis-
persed about the borders, &c, leave them to nature ; they will
also blow freely, only of shorter duration, in full beauty, than
those that are occasionally defended as above.

Where the stalks of hyacinths run up in large heavy flower-
spikes, and are not able to bear up their flowers, let them be
supported, by placing a short stick to each plant, and the stalk
then neatly fastened to the stick.

Apk.J

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

217

CARNATIONS IN POTS.

The best carnations in pots must now have a good share of
attention, and should be encouraged as much as possible m
their growth.

Keep the pots perfectly free from weeds, and the plants from
decayed leaves, and let the earth on the surface of the pots be
stirred, if it binds hard ; for this will encourage the plants to
shoot, and will also give an air of neatness. Water the pots
often in dry warm weather, for they will require it moderately
every second or third day, which should not be omitted, other-
wise the plants will shoot weakly, and produce but slender
flower stalks.

When the flower stalks have advanced near a foot long, let
them be supported with neat straight sticks.

SOWING CARNATIONS.

Now is still a proper time to sow the seeds of carnations and
pinks.

But these seeds must be sown in the first or second week of
the month ; either in an east border, or let some small spot of
rich light ground be neatly dug, and divided into beds about
three feet broad, making the surface even. Sow the seed on
the surface tolerably thick, each sort separate ; and either rake
them in lightly, or if the surface is first raked, and the seeds
then sown, cover them a quarter of an inch deep, or there-
abouts, with fine light earth.

These beds, if the weather should prove very dry, should be
often sprinkled with light waterings, and in about two, three, or
four weeks, the plants will appear.

For the further management of the plants, see the work of
the preceding and following months.

PLANTING CARNATIONS.

Carnations, not yet finally planted into the borders, beds, or
pots where intended they should remain to flower, may still be
done, but should be performed in the beginning or middle of
this month at latest; removing them with balls, and watered as
soon as possible.

PLANTING AND SOWING POLYANTHUSES.

Polyanthuses may still be planted, and also propagated by
ropted slips : and the seed may be sowed.

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THE PLEASURE

[Ape.

But these works should be done In the first or second week
in the month, otherwise the seedling plants particularly will
not get strength enough to flower strong next year.

Let this seed be sown on a border of light earth, not much
exposed to the sun ; sow it pretty thick, and rake it in lightly
with an even hand.

When the plants come up, keep. them clean from wee"ds, and
give occasional light waterings in dry weather; in July or
August prick them out on a shady border, three inches asunder,
giving them some water.

Such polyanthuses as were raised last year from seed, will,
many of them, be now in bloom, and should be carefully looked
over, and the best flowers marked, in order to their being trans-
planted to a place by themselves, or for propagation by rooted
offsets.

MANAGEMENT OF POTS OF PERENNIAL PLANTS IN GENERAL.

Give fresh earth to such pots of perennial plants as were not
dressed and new earthed in March. The method is this ; first
loosen the earth on the top, and down round the sides of the
pots a little way ; then take out the loose earth, and clear away
all decayed leaves from the plants ; this done, fill up the pots
again with some rich new compost, and then give the whole a
gentle watering.

The plants will receive great benefit from this dressing ; and
where it was not done in March, it should not be put off longer
than the beginning of this month.

Or where the plants of these kinds are in small pots, and
stand in need of shifting into larger pots and fresh earth, it may
still be performed early in the month : in doing which, turn
each plant out of its present pot, with the ball of earth entire,
trim the outside roots, and pare away some of \he old earth ;
and having fresh mould in the new pot, place the plant therein,
fill up with more new earth, and give water.

Remember, in dry weather, to supply all plants in pots with
water: this is a material article, and should not be omitted.

PLANTING AND PROPAGATING PERENNIALS, &0,

Most sorts of perennials and biennials of the fibrous-rooted
tribe may yet be planted ; and many sorts propagated by off-
sets, &c. ■

The sorts which may yet be planted are, golden-rods, Michael-
mas daisies, perennial asters, and perennial sunflowers ; also

Ara.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

219

Canterbury bells, columbines, Greek valerian, scabiouses, cam-
panulas, catchfly, rosecampion, rockets, lychnises, bachelor's
buttons, sweetwilliams, pinks, carnations, wallflowers, holy-
hocks, and French honeysuckles, peach-leaved bellflower,
foxgloves, tree-primrose, double feverfew, everlasting peas,
fraxinella, saxifrages, gentian, crimson cardinal flower, double
lady's smock, double ragged robin, and lychnidea. Likewise
polyanthuses, primroses, auriculas, double daisies, double cha-
momile, thrift, London pride, gentianella, with most other sorts
of the fibrous-rooted plants, may still be safely removed. — £ep
the Catalogue.

DAHLIAS.

At present the double dahlia is the most fashionable peren-
nial in this country ; and the extent of its culture, and the per-
fection to which it has been brought within the last ten or
twelve years, are truly astonishing. They are easily propagated
by dividing the roots, or by cuttings, and by seed for new
varieties. In dividing the roots, care must be taken to preserve
an eye, or bud, to each section ; otherwise, though the tubers
will throw out roots, they will produce no stems or shoots.
They will grow freely in any sort of soil, but thrive best in a
rich loam. They may either be planted on the spot where
they are to flower, about the beginning or middle of this month,
or potted and forwarded in frames or pits till the middle of
May, and then planted where they are to flower. The latter
method is preferable, if an early blow is desired. If planted at
first where they are to flower, they must be protected when
they come up, till all danger of frost is over. When planted in
clumps, some nicety is required in the arrangement of the sorts,
so as to have a proper mixture of colours, and particularly to
have the tallest growing plants either in the centre or at the
back of the clump, according as it is to be viewed from one
side only, or on all sides. The roots should be planted about
three or three and a half feet apart each way.

Let all the above kinds of plants be taken up now carefully,
with small balls of earth about their roots, if possible, and plant
them in the places where wanted, and water them ; repeat the
waterings in dry weather; and the plants will all flower this
year, each at its respective time of flowering ; and, in the per-
ennial sorts, the same roots continue many years, and flower
annually ; but the biennials, in most sorts, only flower one year
in good perfection.

220

THE PLEASURE

[Ap;i.

Many of the above perennials, not much advanced for flower-
ing, may also still be propagated by offsets, &c

SOWING PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS.

Now sow such perennial and biennial flower seeds as are in-
tended to be sown this season.

The sorts proper to sow now are wallflowers, stock July
flowers, sweetwiliiams, columbines, campanula, tree primrose,
and Greek valerian; likewise hollyhocks and French honey-
suckles, with the single catchfly, rose campion, scarlet lychnis,
and the seeds of most other sorts of hardy fibrous-rooted peren-
nials and biennials, as are mentioned in the Catalogue at the
end of the book.

These seeds may either be sown on borders, or in three or
four feet wide beds of rich earth, and raked in, or covered
evenly with earth ; the largest seed not more than half an inch
to an inch deep, nor the smaller less than a quarter of an inch ;
or the larger seeds may be sown in drills. — See March.

The beds wherein the above, or any other sorts of perennial
and biennial flower seeds, are sown, must be frequently watered
moderately in dry weather ; this should be practised both be-
fore and after the plants are come up, by which means the plants
will rise stronger, and grow away freely.

TUBEROSES.

Plant some tuberoses, in a hotbed, or in a hothouse, the be-
ginning of this month, they will succeed those in bloom which
were planted in March.

But if none were planted in that month, this now is a very
good time to begin to put in some of these roots.

Procure some good sound roots from the seed shops, when
they come from abroad ; for those roots are seldom propagated
;n this country, as they are too tender to prosper in the com-
mon ground, so that there are great quantities imported every
year from Italy. Having procured the roots, let the looser
outer skins be taken off; and if there be any offsets, let these
be also taken away : then plant the roots in pots of rich light
earth, one root in a pot, inserted an inch or two below the sur-
face of the earth ; then set the pots either in a moderate hot-
bed, plunging them to their rims in the earth of the bed, or in
a bark bed of a hothouse, &c.

To those in a hotbed admit only a small portion of air into
the bed, till the roots begin to shoot ; and they must have but

Apr.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

221

very little water till they come up ; then water them moderately
twice or thrice a week ; and admit fresh air every day, by rais-
ing the glasses ; and as the stems of the plants rise in height,
the frames should be raised accordingly, that they may have
full liberty to shoot ; for the stems generally rise a yard or
more high. Towards the middle or latter end of May, the
glasses may, in fine days, be taken entirely off ; which, by ad-
mitting the free air, will strengthen the plants ; but put them
on every night, and also in the daytime, when the weather
happens to be very wet or cold.

But those that are placed in a hothouse lequire no farther
care than occasional waterings and fresh air, in common with
the other plants of that department ; and in which they will
flower in good perfection, with much less trouble than in a
hotbed.

Those roots which are planted now will begin to blow in
June or July; at which time the plants may be moved to where
you think proper, either in the open air, or into any apartment
of a house ; they will continue to flower for about a month or
six weeks.

CARE OF AURICULAS iN BLOOM.

Auriculas will now begin to blow ; care must therefore be
taken to protect the curious sorts in pots from rain and wind,
and also from too much sun.

The farina or mealy dust which overspreads the surface of
those flowers, contributes exceedingly to their lustre and
beauty ; this must therefore be preserved upon them ; the least
shower of rain would easily wash it off ; it is also liable to be
blown off by the winds; and the sun, if permitted to shine
freely on the flowers, would occasion them soon to fade.

Therefore, where it is required to have the more curious or
choice varieties blow in the best perfection, the pots containing
the plants should, according as the flowers begin to open, be
immediately removed, and placed on the shelves of the auricula
stage, or where the flowers may be protected occasionally from
such weather as would deface the bloom. The stand or stage
should have from three to five or six ranges of shelves, about
six inches wide, rising theatrically one above another, from the
front : having the back generally placed against a shady wall,
pale, or other building ; it must be constantly covered at top,
water tight, sloping to the back part; but the front or two ends

222

THE PLEASURE

[Afe.

must only be covered occasionally, by having some canvas or
mats fastened to the top of the front and ends, by way of cur-
tain, so contrived that it may be readily let down and drawn up
at pleasure, which, when the air is very sharp, or in high winds,
or driving rains, must be let down to shelter the flowers ; but
when the weather is mild and calm, let the front be constantly
open. Or this may also be used occasionally to shade the
flowers from the sun, where it has access in the heat of the day.
observing, however, generally, not to let the screen remain
longer than is necessary for the defence of the flowers.

Watering must likewise be observed during the time the
plants are on the stage ; let them therefore be examined, at
least once every day, to see where water is wanted ; and let
such pots as stand in need of that article be immediately sup-
plied with it. In doing this, let no water fall on the flowers,
for that would also wash off the aforementioned farinaceous
bloom, and greatly deface their beauty.

Let the water be always given in moderate quantities.

Keep the surface of the pots perfectly neat, free from weeds
and every sort of litter : suffer no decayed leaves to remain on
the plants, but let such, as soon as they appear, be taken off.

By thus placing your auricula pots on a covered stage, it not
only preserves the flowers much longer in beauty, but you also
more readily view them, and they show themselves to much
greater advantage than when placed on the ground.

SAVING AURICULA SEED FOR PROPAGATION.

Where it is intended to save seed from auriculas, in order
for sowing, whereby to obtain new varieties, let the flowers of
which you would save it be marked when they are in full bloom,
and removed off the stage as soon as the flower begins to fade,
and plunge them in a border where the plants can enjoy the
morning sun freely till about ten or eleven o'clock, but not
longer.

Water them often in dry weather, and suffer no weeds to
grow in the pots or near them ; likewise take care that they
are at no time too much shaded with any large growing plants,
but let them enjoy the free air, and the benefit of showers of
rain.

The seed will be ripe in the end of June, and in July, when
you must gather the seed pods as they ripen, otherwise the
seed will soon scatter upon the ground.

A PH.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

223

PROPAGATING AURICULAS BY SLIPS.

Auriculas are also increased by the offsets or suckers which
rise from the roots and sides of the old plants j and this is a
proper time to slip them off and plant them.

They will now readily take root, and as the plants are now
in bloom, you have the opportunity of seeing the flowers, and
taking the slips from the plants of those you like best, observ-
ing to slip them off close, with as much root-part as possible.

Plant the slips either in a shady border, for two or three
months, then potted, or let each slip be planted singly, in a
small pot of fresh earth, and set the pots in a shady place, and
then give the whole a moderate watering ; repeating it often in
dry weather. But in the common auriculas, for the flower-
borders, &c, the slips may be planted, the smaller either in a
shady border till autumn, especially the smaller ; or the strong
slips, planted at once in the borders or beds to remain.

The propagating these plants by slips is the only method to
increase the sorts you like ; for the slips or suckers will produce
exactly the same kind of flowers as those of the plants from
whence they were taken : which is not so with the seedling
plants ; for the principal intention of florists by raising them
from seed is to procure new sorts ; for there are always new
varieties obtained from seed ; and, perhaps, out of some hun-
dreds so raised, not one proves exactly like the original or
parent plant from which the seeds were saved, or probably but
very few that have the properties requisite for a real good
flower ; but the curious in flowers are well satisfied with the
acquisition of one or two new varieties that have all the due
properties ; and, as above hinted, when any new variety is thus
obtained, the next care is to propagate it by the slips or suckers
which arise from the side of the main plant.

CARE OF SEEDLING AURICULAS, AND SOWING AURICULA SEEDS

Seedlins auriculas, which were sown last autumn, or this
spring, now demand attention ; these plants, when newly come
up, or while quite young, will succeed best if they have some
protection from the full sun in the heat of the day ; they must
therefore be shaded from it occasionally.

If they were sown and raised in pots, boxes, or tubs, these
should be removed to a shady border towards the latter end of
this month : the place should be open to the morning sun till

THE PLEASURE

[Apr.

about nine or ten o'clock, but shaded the rest of the day, and
watered often in dry weather.

Such auricula plants as were raised last year from seed will
now, many of them, begin to flower, when you should examine
them ; and such as produce the largest flowers, and have good
colours, should be marked and planted in pots for stage flowers:
but the common flowers, that is, those that have but ordinary
colours, &c, should be mostly planted in the borders, among
other low flowering plants ; and those which are planted in pots
should, in the following year's bloom, be again examined, when
you will be more able to judge of their properties ; and those of
them that do not merit a place among stage flowers should be
transplanted into the common borders.

Note. — Auricula seed may still be sown : but it must be done
in the first or second week in this month ; may either be sown
in an east border, to have only the morning sun, or in large
pots, &c, placed in such a situation.

BALM OF GILEAD.

This is the time to sow seeds of balm of Gilead, and may
also plant cuttings of the stalks ; these plants are of the peren-
nial kind, and the stems and leaves remain all the year, if pro-
tected in winter ; are much esteemed for the agreeable scent of
their leaves, and make very proper furniture for the beds and
borders of this garden in summer, as they rise in a branchy,
bushy growth, two or three feet high ; but the flowers being
very small, make no ornamental appearance, which, however, is
compensated by the odoriferous fragrance of the plants.

The plants being rather of a tender quality, requiring protec-
tion in winter of a green house or garden frame, some are com-
monly kept in pots for that occasion, and of which a part may,
in this or next month, be transplanted with balls into some
principal borders.

The seed may be sown either on a hotbed or in a bed or
border of natural earth, in a warm situation ; but it will be most
advisable to sow them on a moderate hotbed, as the plants
raised by this method will be brought greatly forward in the
spring ; observing the same method of sowing the seed and
managing the plants as directed for the less tender or hardier
sorts of annual plants, such as China aster, India pink, African
and French marigold, &c.

•The balm of Gilead may likewise be propagated by cuttings
of the stalks, and where the plants have been preserved in

Ape.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

225

frames, or in green houses, all winter, some of them will have
stalks proper for that method of propagation ; or, if they are not
now furnished with stalks, they will have produced strong ones
by the middle of June : cut off some of the strongest, and
divide them into lengths of six inches, and plant them either in
large pots, several in each, and may be placed in a hotbed to
expedite their rooting : or plant them in pots in the open air,
and shaded ; or may be planted in a shady border, four or five
inches asunder, observing, in the whole, to give proper water-
ings, and they will readily take root, and be fit to transplant in
two months.

When intended to preserve the plants all winter, they must
be potted, in order to be placed either in a green house or in a
garden frame, defended occasionally with the glasses and other
coverings in severe weather, and they will continue green all
winter.

PLANTING EVERGREENS.

Evergreen shrubs and trees, of many sorts, may yet be
planted. But this should be completed by the middle of the
month, or as soon after as possible.

Most sorts will yet bear removal successfully, such as hollies,
bays, evergreen oaks, and yews ; laurel, Portugal laurel, and
laurustions ; phillyreas, alaternuses, and pyracantha ; evergreen
cytisus and cistuses of all sorts ; also the arbutus, or strawberry
tree ; evergreen cassine and magnolias ; arbor vitas, and rhodo-
dendron ; likewise pines, firs, cypress, junipers, savins, cedars,
&c.

Open for each shrub, &c, a circular hole of proper width and
moderate depth, and let the bottom be loosened ; then bring in
the plants, set them upright in the holes, and let the earth be
very well broken and filled in about the roots in a regular man-
ner ; and when all is in, tread it down gently round the extreme
parts and stem of the plant ; then make the earth at top some-
what hollow, in order to contain water.

In transplanting large evergreens, if the plants can be con-
veniently taken up, and brought with balls of earth about their
roots, it should be done, placing them in the holes, with the
balls entire.

When all is planted, give a good watering to settle the earth
about their roots ; then lay some mulch on the surface round
each plant ; this will prevent the sun and wind from drying the
earth too fast about their roots.

k 2

226

THE PLEASURE

[Apr.

Stakes should be placed to such tall shrubs and trees of the
above as require support j and this should be done as soon as
they are planted ; let the stakes be firmly fixed in the ground,
and fasten the stem of the plant securely to them in an upright
direction.

PLANTING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

Where flowering shrubs are much wanted, they may yet be
removed ; but this should be done in the first or second week
of the month, or as soon as possible.

The althea frutex, lilac, Persian lilac, hypericum, and privet,
will yet bear transplanting ; also the bladder and scorpion senas,
honeysuckles and jasmines; syringas and laburnums, and most
other hardy deciduous shrubs and trees.

When they are planted, water them well ; and repeat it once
or twice, if the season should be very dry.

PROPAGATING FLOWERING SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS.

For the methods of propagating flowering shrubs and ever-
greens, see the work of the Flower Garden and Nursery in
March; as also the Nursery of this month, June, July, October,
and November.

MANAGEMENT OF GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS.

Grass walks and lawns, and other compartments of grass in
the garden, should be kept in perfect good order.

Roll them frequently, and let the grass be regularly mown ;
observe to cut it always close, and as even as possible : this
should be particularly regarded ; for when the lawns and walks
are so badly mown, that every stroke of the scythe appears, they
make a very disagreeable appearance.

To keep short grass lawns, &c, in tolerable good order, they
should be mown sometimes once a week, but generally not less
than once a fortnight, or three weeks at farthest. However,
never suffer grass in this garden to grow rank, but apply the
scythe to it in proper time ; then the mowing may be performed
with expedition and exactness, and with greater ease to the
mower; generally taking opportunity of dewy mornings, as
early as possible, while the moisture or dew remains, which
should be particularly regarded in mowing of short grass in
gardens, otherwise it will be impossible to mow it close and
even.

Rolling of principal short grass lawns, &c, is also very neces-

Apr.] ok flower garden. 227

sary, and should be frequently performed, as it not only pre-
serves the sward firm, smooth, and clean, of more agreeable
appearance ; but it also renders the grass much easier to moif
with proper regularity: and it would therefore be eligible to
have the grass sometimes well rolled a day or two previous to
mowing.

Where worm-casts abound considerably on your grass, let
these first be broken, and spread about with a pliable pole in a
dry day, before you use the roller : when that is done, let the
grass be regularly rolled; and the worm-casts being broken
small, and scattered about, they will readily stick to the roller,
provided it is done while they are somewhat moist, not too wet.
By this method the grass will be made perfectly clean, and you
will be able to mow it to greater exactness.

The edge of the lawns, grass walks, &c, should now be neatly
edged, or cut even with an edging iron, if omitted last month ;
or at least have the rough edges trimmed close and even with a
knife or shears : but this should now be particularly practised
to those edges next gravel walks, and should always be done
just before the gravel is to be turned or new laid down ; arid
afterwards occasionally. N

GRAVEL WALKS.

Gravel walks should now be broken up and turned, where
it was not done in March; for it is time now to put them into
the best order for the spring and summer season.

By breaking up and turning gravel at this season, it will not
only destroy weeds and moss, but the walks will appear with a
fresh and lively surface, that will render them very agreeable
both to the sight and to walk upon during the summer, &c.

But before you begin to lay or turn the gravel, the edges of
the walks, if they are grass, should be first neatly trimmed in
close, or edged even with an edging iron, &c, as above directed :
or if the sides are planted with box, it should be gone over with
the garden shears ; and if there be borders next to the walks,
they should also be neatly dug, or hoed, and cleaned, and the
surface raked smooth, and you will then proceed in a workman-
like manner ; for when the edges are trimmed, and the borders
put into proper order, it is a very great addition to the beauty
of the walks.

In turning and laying gravel walks, let the same method be
observed now as mentioned in the last month: do it in dry
weather ; and as you advance with the turning or laying the

228

THE PLEASURE

[Apr.

gravel, observe to tread, rake, and roll the surface regularly
every fifteen, twenty, or thirty feet ; for gravel always hinds a
great deal the better when it is fresh stirred ; the roller will then
have the greater effect in rendering the body of the walk firm,
and the surface close and smooth.

Roll the gravel frequently after it has been turned or new
laid ; twice or thrice a week will not be too often ; but never
omit rolling the walks in general once in that time. Frequent
rollings will render the walks firm and beautiful, and will also,
in a great measure, prevent the growth of weeds and moss.

Gravel walks ridged up in winter should now be levelled
down, as above.

Make new gravel walks where intended, laying the gravel
generally about five or six to eight or ten inches thick ; though
as the two last-mentioned depths would probably take up more
gravel than could be conveniently obtained in many places, in
which case may allot the more moderate depth of three or four
to five or six inches, and in making of which, let the same
method be observed as directed in March, in laying or making
new gravel walks.

EDGINGS OF BOX AND THRIFT.

Box may yet be planted, where it is wanted, for edgings to
beds or borders : and it will take root and grow freely, with the
assistance of a little water in dry weather.

Thrift may also be planted. This will make an agreeable
edging, if planted close and neat.

Where box-edgings want trimming, it should now be done,
although this is not the general season for clipping these edg-
ings ; but notwithstanding, when they appear uneven, let them
now be sheared, and they will then appear neat till midsummer.

Likewise, where edgings of thrift have grown very broad and
uneven, let them be cut in evenly on each side, and they will
soon shoot and appear green again, in proper regularity.

Where any of the above edgings have, for want of care,
grown into rude disorder, they should be taken up, slipped, and
replanted in a close regular manner,

STICKING AND TRIMMING FLOWERING PLANTS.

Go round and place sticks to all such plants as require sup-
port, and let them be well secured before they take an awkward
growth ; which work should be continued occasionally, accord-
ing as the plants advance in height.

Apu.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN

229

Fix the sticks upright and firmly in the ground: let the stems
or stalks of the plants be brought near the sticks, and tied
neatly to them ; let the ends of the tyings be also cut off close.

The sticks should be well proportioned to the natural height
of each plant : for it looks ill to see a tall stick set for the sup-
port of a plant of low growth.

Take off all straggling, broken, and decayed shoots from the
plants of every kind, and let decayed leaves be cleared away
whenever they appear.

CLEANING AND DRESSING THE BORDERS, &c.

First destroy weeds in every part before they grow large :
they will now rise numerously in the borders, &c.

Let these be destroyed by the hoe or hand, as it is most con-
venient ; but where the plants stand wide, let the hoe be used,
it being the most expeditious method.

Let your hoe be sharp : take the advantage of a dry day to
use it, cutting the weeds up clean within the surface; and let
every part between the plants be stirred ; and as you go on, let
all dead leaves and straggling shoots be taken off.

Then rake the borders, &c, over neatly with a small rake ;
clearing away, at the same time, all the weeds and litter, and
let the surface be made perfectly clean and smooth ; and they
will thus have a requisite, fresh, orderly appearance, agreeably
for the spring season.

THE NURSERY.

SOWING EVERGREENS, FLOWERING SHRUBS, AND TREE-SEEDS.

Finish sowing the seeds of evergreens and all other tree and
Shrub seeds, which are intended to be sown this spring. In the
evergreen tribe most sorts may still be successfully sown, such
as pines and firs of all kinds, cedars, cypress, junipers, and bays ;
also the acorns of evergreen oaks, and the seeds of most other
hardy evergreens.

All the above, and other seeds of the like kinds, may be
sown, in beds of light earth in the common ground ; or may
sow cedars, pines, &c, in small quantities, in boxes or pots, for
the conveniency of moving them to different situations, accord-
ing to the season of the year.

230

THE NURSERY.

[AfB.

Likewise most kinds of hardy deciduous tree and shrub seeds,
both of our own growth, or from America and other foreign
parts, may also still be sown in this month ; but the sooner in
the month this is done the better.

All these seeds of most sorts of hardy shrubs and trees, both
of the evergreen and other kinds, may be sown in beds of light
earth, in the common ground, choosing for their reception a
moderately light pliable soil.

Prepare beds to sow them in, three or four feet broad ; the
earth must be broken fine, and the surface laid perfectly even.

Note. — *If some of the more tender or choicer kinds of these
shrub or tree seeds, nuts, &c, are sown in pots, and the pots
pmnged in a moderate hotbed, it would forward their growth,
and would be particularly advisable for some of the very hard-
seeded or nut kind of the more tender sorts ; but where there
is not that conveniency, let them be sown in beds, as above, in
the common ground : and in which most of the North American
seeds, and of the temperate European parts, will succeed.

Sow the seeds of each sort separate, either on the surface in
a regular manner, pressing the larger kinds down a little into
the earth with the back of the spade, and cover each kind ac-
cording to its size, a proper depth, with light earth, from about
half an inch to one or two inches deep : or may be sown in
drills, a proper depth, as above, especially the larger seeds.-r—
See October and November.

Note. — The seeds of the arbutus, or strawberry tree, may
also be sown now, as directed in March.

THE MANAGEMENT OF SEEDBEDS'.

Water occasionally the seedbeds of all kinds of trees and
shrubs, in dry weather ; but this must be practised both before
and after the plants begin to appear.

Observe at all times to water these beds with moderation ; a
little and often must be the rule. Likewise be very careful not
to apply the Water over hastily at any time, for that would be
apt to wash the earth away from the seed, and also from the
young plants now beginning to come up ; being particularly
careful of the more tender and delicate sorts: generally let the
refreshments of water be repeated moderately once every two
or three days in warm dry weather; for this will be of great
service to all such kinds of seedling plants.

Shade will also prove very beneficial in the middle of hot
sunny days, to many of the choice kinds of seedling trees and

Ape.]

THE NURSERY.

231

shrubs, about the time of their first appearing, and for some
time after.

These young plants may be shaded from the sun occasion-
ally, by fixing hoops across the beds ; then let mats be drawn
over the hoops as often as occasion requires.

Where there are boxes, pots, or tubs of seedling plants, let
them be placed in a shady situation, about the middle or to-
wards the latter end of this month, where they may have the
morning sun only.

All beds of seedling trees and shrubs whatever must be kept
perfectly clean from weeds.

This should be carefully attended to, for the weeds are much
quicker of growth than the young seedling' plants of trees and
shrubs, and would soon get the start of them if permitted to
stand, and would do much damage. Therefore let the weeds,
as soon as they appear in the beds, be cleared out, before they
get to any great head, performing it by a very careful hand-
weeding.

CARE OF NEWLY PLANTED ARTICLES.

Water new plantations of the tenderer kinds of young ever-
greens and flowering shrubs, &c, but in particular those which
were lately planted out from the seedbeds ; these must not be
forgotten in dry weather.

Once a week will be often enough to water any new planta-
tions, even in the driest season, and to those that are but lately
planted : but such as have been planted in autumn, or early in
the spring, will require but very little watering.

Cuttings, either of fruit or forest trees, flowering shrubs, or
evergreens, which were planted last autumn or this spring, must
also be watered now and then in dry weather.

TRANSPLANTING.

Evergreens, of most sorts, both seedlings and others, re-
maining in too close growth, may yet be transplanted ; but this
should be forwarded as much as possible in the beginning of
this month, or wholly completed by the middle in all the requi-
site principal plantings.

Pines and firs of all kinds, cedars, cy press, and the like kinds,
will yet bear removal very well. Likewise phillyreas, alater-
nuses, phlomises, and pyracantha ; also bays, hollies, and ever-
green oak; cistuses, and cytisusesj arbutus, magnolias, and
many other sorts of evergreens.

232

THE NURSERY.

[Aph.

They should be planted in nursery rows j which, for small
seedlings, may be in rows from six to ten or twelve inches
asunder ; but for larger plants, set them in rows two feet and a
half or a yard distance, and fifteen or eighteen inches in the ruw.

As soon as they are planted, it will be of much advantage to
give a good watering, to settle the earth about their roots.

Likewise any deciduous shrubs, and trees of the late shoot-
ing kinds, that require thinning out or transplanting, may also
still be removed, performing it as early in the month as possi-
ble, planting them the above-mentioned distances in the nur-
sery rows.

For the methods of planting all the above kinds in nursery
rows, see the two last months.

NEW GRAFTED TREES.

Examine new grafted trees ; the clay is sometimes apt to
fall off or crack, so as to admit air and wet to the grafts.

When this is the case, let the old clay be taken entirely off,
and immediately apply some more that is fresh and well
wrought. Let this be perfectly well closed in every part, so
that neither wind nor wet can enter.

Where there are any shoots produced from the stocks below
the grafts, let them be rubbed off close ; for these, if permitted
to grow, would starve the grafts ; and be careful also to eradi-
cate all root suckers.

NEW BUDDED TREES.

Budded trees should also be looked over about this time ;
for those that were budded last summer will now be making
their first shoots, and therefore demand some attention.

These first shoots from the inoculated buds are, in some
seasons, apt to be attacked by insects or blights : and these, if
not prevented, will hinder the young shoots greatly, and some-
times entirely spoil them ; but by a timely attention, the injury
may be, in a great measure, prevented : that, where the ends of
the young shoot appear crumpled, and the leaves curled up,
let them be carefully taken off, for they are full of small in-
sects. By this practice the vermin may be prevented from
spreading farther.

Likewise observe, that all shoots which put out from the
stocks, besides the proper inserted bud, must be also rubbed off
constantly as they are produced, that the whole efforts of the
stock may go to the support of the bud-shoots only.

An;.]

THE NURSERY

233

HOEING AND WEEDING.

Hoe and destroy weeds between the rows of young trees ;
they will now rise abundantly from seed ; but by applying the
hoe to them while young, they may be very expeditiously de-
stroyed.

Choose dry weather always to destroy weeds by hoe ; let the
hoe be sharp, and take the advantage of the weeds while they
are small, and cut them up clean within the surface of the
ground.

There is nothing like destroying weeds in due time ; for when
they are suffered to grow large, they are constantly hurtful to
all young trees and shrubs, and in particular to those plants
which are not far advanced in their growth. Besides, they
appear very disagreeable, and require double labour to extirpate
them.

Likewise all seedbeds, and others of young trees and shrubs
in close growth, where not room for the hoe, should be care-
fully hand-weeded, according as they may require, in proper
time, before the weeds spread considerably.

GRAFTING.

Grafting may still be performed upon fruit trees ; but it
must be upon the latest shooting kinds of the different sorts ;
and it must be done the first and second week in the month,
otherwise it will mostly be ineffective.

Graft hollies with cuttings of the variegated kinds. The first
fortnight in this month is the proper time to perforin that work
on these plants.

,The common green holly is the proper stock to graft the
variegated kinds upon : and the stocks for this purpose must
not be less than three or four years' growth from the seed ; but
those of five and six are very proper for this use.

Get some good cuttings or grafts, of the best variegated kinds ;
they must be shoots of the last summer's growth. Let them
be grafted with exactness, according to the general method of
whip-grafting. — See Grafting in the Nursery of March.

Likewise graft any other curious varieties of trees on stocks
of their own kind.

But in most fruit trees and other deciduous kinds, where any
grafting remains to be done, no time should be omitted in
forwarding it early in the month, before the graft shoots begin

234

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[Am.

to advance much in the spring buds, otherwise the work will
prove unsuccessful.

INARCHING.

Inarching may also be performed now on evergreens, and
on any kinds of trees or shrubs that you desire to propagate
that way.

This method of grafting is only principally intended for those
kinds of trees and shrubs which are not easily raised by common
grafting or budding, or from seed, layers, or cuttings, or by any
of the other general methods, for most sorts may be propagated
by inarching.

But this may be practised on almost any kind of trees and
shrubs, as may be thought convenient, either by way of curi-
osity, or otherwise.

The evergreen kinds may be inarched any time in this month;
but the other sorts generally succeed best when inarched at the
beginning. — See March, &c.

\

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

GIVING AIR TO THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

The green-house plants now require a large portion of free
air ; and this article should be admitted to them every day,
when the air is anything mild.

Most of the plants will now be shooting freely ; they must
not, therefore, be kept too close, for that would weaken the
shoots, and render the plants in general so extremely tender,
that they would not be able to bear the open air well when they
are first brought forth for the summer season.

Therefore open the green-house windows every morning,
more or less, when the air is mild and calm, about an hour or
two after sunrising, and let them continue open till within an
hour or less of the sun's setting; that is, if the air continues
mild till that time of the evening. '

WATERING.

Water must now be duly given to the plants, in general,
according as they stand in need thereof.

The orange and lemon trees will require that article often.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

236

Also the myrtles, geraniums, oleander, amomum Plinii, and
cistuses, African heaths, protea, diosmas, and all other plants of
the woody kinds, will require to be frequently refreshed with
moderate waterings.

Also any herbaceous exotics, of the green-house tribe, must
have moderate waterings occasionally.

But the green-house plants in general must be often looked
over, to see where water is wanted ; and let all such pots and
tubs as stand in need of it be properly supplied therewith, for
this is now a very necessary article.

But in watering the greenhouse plants, let it be given to all
kinds with moderation, but especially while they are in the
house, and particularly the more succulent kinds.

As to the succulent plants of this department, such as aloes,
sedums, opuntias, euphorbias, crassulas, cereuses, mesembry-
anthemums, &c, they being naturally replete with humidity, do
not require much water ; giving it only moderately at times,
when the earth in the pots appears very dry: as too much
moisture would rot some of the very succulent kinds of these
plants.

SHIFTING PLANTS INTO LARGER POTS.

Orange, lemon, citron, and myrtle trees, and any other of the
green-house plants, may still be shifted into larger pots where
they require it.

Let those plants which are to be shifted be brought out of
the house in a mild day : then take them out of the pots or
tubs, with the ball of earth entire about their roots, and let any
dry, matted, and decayed roots on the outside and bottom of
the balls be neatly cut off, and let some of the old earth on the
outside be taken away.

Then, having some fresh earth ready, let some be put into
the bottom of the new pot or tub ; set the tree, with its ball, as
above prepared, in the middle, and fill up the pot or tub with
the fresh compost, raising it quite over the top of the ball an
inch or two thick.

According as the plants intended are thus fresh potted, &c,
let them be immediately well watered, to settle the new earth
close about the ball and roots ; then return them to their places
in the green-house, and water them moderately, as occasion
requires.

236

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[Apb.

FRESH EARTHING THE PLANTS,

Those plants which are not to be shifted this year into larger
pots should have a small augment of fresh earth, if not done
last month, by taking some of the old earth, out of the top of
the pots or tubs, to a little depth, and some fresh and rich com-
post applied in its stead, which will refresh them greatly.

This will be remarkably serviceable to orange, lemon, and
citron trees, and the like kinds, and to all other plants in the
green-house ; and it should not be omitted now, if it was no!
done before.

Let the earth first be loosened on the top of the pots or tubs,
quite to the surface of the uppermost roots, and take it out;
then loosen the earth a little way down round the sides, and
take that out likewise ; then fill up the pots or tubs with the
new earth, and give a little water to settle it properly.

TRIMMING AND CLEANING THE PLANTS.

Let no decayed leaves remain on any of the green-house
plants ; but let such, as soon as they appear, be taken off, for
these make the plants appear unsightly, and are also hurtful to
them in some degree.

Likewise, when decayed shoots appear, cut them off close,
as also any shoots of a weakly straggling nature may be pruned
less or more, or cut quite away, as it may appear necessary.

Let no weeds grow in the pots or tubs ; keep them free from
moss, and let no sort of litter be seen about them.

Where the leaves of orange and lemon trees, &c, have con-
tracted any foulness, they must now be made perfectly clean.

For the large-leaved sorts, have some soft water in a water-
ing pot, and a piece of sponge ; dip this in the water, and clean
the leaves therewith, one by one. It will clean the surface,
open their necessary pores, and be greatly serviceable to the
plants ; and let the myrtles, and other small-leaved kinds, be
cleaned from dust, &c, by syringing them occasionally.

HEADING DOWN OR PRUNING MYRTLES, &c.

Where myrtles, or other woody green-house shrubs of simi
lar growth, have straggling or irregular heads, they may he
headed down, or have the straggling branches pruned to some
regular order; by which means they will put out plenty of
strong shoots nearer the stem, and form full and regular heads
in two or three months' time.

Apr.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

237

Likewise geraniums, &c, where any have very ii regular
heads, or of thin straggling growth, they may have the shoots
pruned to some orderly extent j or long stragglers shortened to
form the head more regular, and that they may shoot out late-
rally in a more compact, equal, branchy manner.

INARCHING.

Inarch shrubby exotics, whereby to propagate any particular
sort ; this being the proper time to perform that method of
grafting on any of the green-house trees or shrubs.

Orange, lemon, and citron trees may be propagated by that
method ; also pomegranates, and many other sorts.

But this method is not adapted for any general practice, only
on particular occasions ; or principally on such plants as cannot
be easily raised any other way, and occasionally by way of
curiosity.

By way of curiosity, or as required, you may inarch a branch
of an orange or lemon tree that has young fruit on it, on one of
the common orange stocks, and it will be well united by the
end of August, and may then be separated from the mother
plant ; and there will be a new tree, with fruit on it, raised in
the space of four or five months' time. — See Inarching, under
the article Grafting, in the Nursery, February.

PROPAGATING BY SEEDS, CUTTINGS, &o.

May still sow seeds of any of the exotics of this department,
which succeed by this method of propagation ; generally giving
them the aid of a hotbed, either that of tanner's bark or hot
dung, as may be convenient, and defended under frames and
lights.

Sow also, where required, the kernels of oranges, lemons, and
citrons, to raise stocks, on which to inoculate the cultivated
varieties of these trees, for propagating the respective sorts. — ■
See the method advised last month.

Propagate various sorts of green-house plants, by cuttings,
layers, and suckers ; and if the cuttings, particularly, are potted
and placed in a bark bed, in the stove or elsewhere, it will
greatly facilitate their rooting.

Young orange stocks for budding raised last year, if in pots
too small, should now be shifted into larger ; and if then placed
in a hotbed or barkbed, under a deep frame and glasses, it
would forward them greatly in growth, and draw them up in
tall straight stems, two or three feet high, raising the frame as

238

THE HOTHOUSE.

[Apb.

they advance in growth ; and give air every day, and proper
waterings ; and in June, should be inured by degrees to the full
air, exposing them fully thereto in the latter end of that month,
or in July: some of the strongest will probably be of proper
growth for budding in August, or most of them at that time the
year following.

THE HOTHOUSE.

MANAGEMENT OF THE STOVE PLANTS IN GENERAL.

In some pine houses, or stoves, there being, besides the
pines, many other curious and tender exotic plants, these must
also have their share of attention.

Where any of these plants stand in need of larger pots, let
them now be shifted into such, filling up the pots with new
earth. Then, if there be room in the bark bed, let the pots be
immediately plunged to their rims therein ; and by the assist-
ance of the kindly heat of the bark, the plants will send out
roots very freely into the fresh earth, which will give them
strength, and make them healthy, and of a lively colour.

Water must also be given to these plants at times ; some
sorts will require it pretty often. The coffee tree, and all the
woody kinds, should be refreshed with moderate quantities of
water, every three or four days ; also the herbaceous kinds oc-
casionally; but the succulent kinds do not require so much
water, giving only a little now and then.

Where any of the pines, coffee tree, or other stove exotics,
have contracted much dust, or other foulness considerably, let it
be cleared off as soon as possible, for it would prove prejudicial
to the tender plants confined in this department, by closing
those minute pores so essential to vegetation, in preserving a
healthful lively growth ; also where any pines, &c, are infested
with small incidental insects, should use timely precaution to
extirpate these destructive vermin.

PROPAGATING STOVE EXOTICS.

Now propagate various sorts of exotics of this conservatory,
by cuttings, layers, and suckers, according to the nature of the
different kinds ; planting them -in pots, and plunge them in the

Ara.]

THE HOT HOUSE.

239

bark bed : which will promote their rooting freely in a short
time.

Likewise sow seeds of any kinds of hot house plants raised
by that method ; sow them in pots, and plunge these in the
bark bed.

Also in the hot house, you may expeditiously strike cuttings
both of many sorts of green house plants, as myrtles, &c, like-
wise of any curious shrubs of the open ground, plunging the
pots in the bark bed.

NURSING AND SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

These having been regulated as directed for February and
March, should now be growing rapidly. In clear weather they
will require to be regularly supplied with water at the roots.
They should also be occasionally syringed over head, when
shut up in the evening, to refresh their foliage and keep them
clear of dust. The temperature may now be gradually increas-
ed to seventy-five degrees, and allowed to exceed that from sun
heat ten degrees or fifteen degrees during the day. Air
should be freely admitted according to the state of the wea-
ther.

Most of the plants having been shifted as directed for Feb-
ruary and last month, will not require to be shifted again before
the beginning of May. Only such as have not been ready then,
may now require to be shifted. If the bed have been properly
prepared with fresh tan for the plants, when they are shifted,
it should supply a genial heat to their roots till they are again
ready for shifting. But in case of the heat declining much be-
fore they are ready for shifting, it may often be considerably
augmented by carefully introducing a top dressing of fresh tan
over the surface of the bed among the pots.

But in shifting these plants, observe that where any appear
in a sickly condition, or are infested with insects, or seem to
have bad roots, it will in such cases be proper to clear away
all the old earth from the roots of the plants; and trim the
roots or fibres pretty close ; and also if the bottom of the main
root appear in a decayed or bad state, let the affected part be
pared away a little with a sharp knife, in a transverse manner,
or as you may see occasion, and strip off some of the lower
leaves, then immediately replant them in pots of entirely fresh
earth.

240

THE HOT HOUSE.

[Apr.

FRUITING PINE PLANTS.

Water should be plentifully administered to the roots every
second or third day, in order to swell off the fruit to a good size.
Liquid manure should be occasionally substituted for the water,
as serving the purpose both of watering and nourishment. Or,
where the strength of the top dressing recommended for last
month may appear exhausted, a coating of dung may be applied
to the surface of the pots, to be washed down by the regular
waterings. Nourishment is particularly necessary at this period
for the support not only of the fruit but of the suckers which it
may be desirable to leave for plants. These will now be fast
forming, and make rapid progress when formed.

Such of the suckers as are emitted from the roots, should be
destroyed, as making bad plants from their aptitude to strike into
fruit prematurely. The suckers, denominated gills, which some-
times appear upon the footstalks of certain varieties, should also
be destroyed as useless. Also, of the suckers of the stem,
only one or two should be spared, unless when the number of
plants is a greater object than the excellence of the fruit.

On the debated question whether crowns or suckers are best
for plants, we may state that crowns make the handsomest,
and surest bearing plants ; but suckers are generally to be pre-
ferred for strength.

FORCING VINES.

The temperature should be continued as regularly as possible
at the same degree as recommended for last month, but allowed
from sun heat during the day to exceed the fire heat medium
five or ten degrees. When the berries have reached the size of
garden peas, the operation of thinning and of tying up the
shoulders of such branches as require it, should not be neglect-
ed. This is of the utmost consequence not only to the free
swelling of the berries, but to their excellence in every respect.

Tie up the required shoulders with fresh matting. Fix one
end of this about one-third from the extremity of the shoulder,
or where the shoulder will be most equally balanced — introduc-
ing a split of wood longitudinally under the shoulder, to diffuse
.the pressure, in case the shoulder be very heavy. Raise the
shoulder as far as required, and tie the other end of the matting
to the wires or shoots of the vines. To avoid confusion from
tying, and to save trouble, the under tiers of shoulders may be
extended and kept up by the insertion of slender splits of wood,

Ape.]

THE HOT HOUSE.

241

having notches at each end, in which two opposite shoulders
may rest.

Then, with a pair of proper grape scissors, cut out the most
immature of the berries, and also such a quantity of the more
perfect of them, as will allow the remainder full scope to ex-
pand. The operation may be completed at two different peri-
ods. The number of berries to be cut out must depend upon
the nature of the vines, the number of branches upon them, and
the size that the berries attain when fully matured. Those which
set their fruit thickly ; those which produce berries of a large
size ; and those which have a considerable abundance of bunches,
will require to be freely thinned, both in the berries, and par-
ticularly iii the case of the abundance of bunches, by the entire
removal of many of these. The musket, the tokay, and sweet-
water, will not generally require so much thinning as some of
the other sorts. But such compact growing sorts as the Ham-
burghs, should be more freely thinned. In general, if fine fruit
is the object, the great danger is on the side of thinning too
little. For our own part, we have never had occasion to regret
having thinned at least one-third of both bunches and berries
— but, often, that we had not thinned them more. Of course,
it will be understood that in the thinning which is here direct-
ed, it should be the finest of the bunches and berries which are
spared.

Water should now be abundantly supplied both to the roots,
and also over the leaves, by means of the syringe. This will
materially forward the swelling of the fruit, and invigorate the
vines. i

FORCING PEACHES.

The temperature should be kept about fifty-five degrees, or
gradually raised so as to reach sixty degrees, by the time that
the fruit shall be completely stoned. After that, all danger is
over, provided that the trees be in a healthy state.

The final thinning of the fruit should then be proceeded
with. Where fine fruit is an object, it should be thinned, upon
healthy trees, to the distance of ten or twelve inches apart : but
where the trees are rather weak, not above half that quantity, or
even less, should be left. Where particular portions of a tree
may seem weakly, these should be thinned with equally unspar-
ing hand ; it being exceedingly bad management to allow any
portions of a tree to be outstripped and swallowed up by the
other parts.

242

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May.

Water should now be much more abundantly supplied than
hitherto, especially at the roots. The syringe should also be
frequently applied over the leaves, in the morning or evening.
Let this be done with considerable force, so as to displace any
insects that may attempt a settlement.

The pruning and training in of the young shoots should be
continued as directed for last month, and all water shoots re-
moved, and laterals, unless where they are necessary to fill up
acancies.

CAKE OF PLANTS FORCING IN THE STOVE.

To plants now forcing in the stove, &c, such as kidneybeans,
strawberries, flowers, &c, be careful to give proper waterings ;
and early in this month introduce more for succession.

MAY.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
MELONS.

Melon plants still require particular care ; those which are in
frames, as well as those under hand or bell-glasses.

The early plants in frames will now show fruit plentifully,
and some will be set and swelling ; therefore, in order to pro-
cure a sufficient quantity of those fruit for a full crop, the plants
must, at this time, have all possible assistance of the best
adapted culture.

One principal thing to be observed is, to preserve a proper
degree of heat in the beds, by occasional linings of hot dung,
while the fruit is about settling, and for some time after ; for a
kindly warmth is also necessary to promote the swelling of the
fruit after they are set ; for it should be observed, that although
there be often very warm days in this month, yet there some-
times happen very cold nights, and unfavourable weather, in
cutting north-easterly winds, &c, which make it so necessary
to preserve a due heat in these beds ; for if the weather should
prove cold, and at the same time there is but little warmth in
the beds, the melons will not set nor swell kindly, but most of
th em will turn yellow and go off. Therefore, when it is per-

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

243

ceived that the beds have much declined in their heat, imme-
diately apply a lining of well prepared hot dung to one or to
both sides of the bed, according as there may be occasion.

The advantage in adding the above fresh lining to such beds
as are much decayed in their heat, will soon evidently appear,
in the growth of the plants and fruit.

Fresh air must be admitted to the plants every day when the
weather is calm and mild ; for this will strengthen them, and
promote the setting and free swelling of the fruit. This article
of air must be admitted to the plants by raising the upper ends
of the lights with props, gradually one, two, or three inches,
according as the power of the sun and warmness of the day in-
creases, and shut them by degrees in the afternoon, and quite
close about four or five in the evening ; or sooner, if the wea-
ther should change cold.

The glasses must be covered every night with mats 'all this
month. Let the mats be thrown over them a little before sun-
set or soon after in the evening ; but when the air is cold, they
may be spread over sooner.

About six or seven in the morning, let the mats be taken off;
or, when it is a warm sunny morning, they may be uncovered
as soon as the sun reaches the glasses ; for the plants should
not be kept too long close covered, nor in darkness, the power
of light being very essential to their growth.

Water should also be given at times to the melon plants in
frames, for they will require it in proper moderation, provided
there be a good heat in the bed, and the weather be tolerably
warm and sunny. Let this article be given very moderately,
and not too often, for too much moisture would chill the young
fruit, and prevent their setting. Once a week or ten days will
be often enough to water them ; and the value of one or two
pots of water to a three-light frame will be sufficient.

Choose always a moderately warm day to water them ; and
about eight or nine in the morning, or three or four in the after-
noon, are now the best times in the day to do that work. Shut
down the lights immediately after watering ; and if the sun
shines, throw a mat over for half an hour, then take it off again,
and give air directly, if sunny. Observe, in watering these
plants, it is not advisable to water them generally all over the
leaves, especially when the fruit is setting ; so should water
between the runners in different parts of the bed with a water-
ing pot, without the rose or head, and placing a flat piece of tile
or oyster shell, &c, water upon this both to prevent the earth

244

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May

from oeing washed from any of the roots by the force of the
water immediately from the spout of the pot, and to make it
spread more effectually ; being careful in this, to let as little as
possible touch the fruit that are about setting, or newly set, and
do not give too much water near the head or main stem of the
plant.

Where the plants advance very near the glasses, it will be
necessary to raise the frame from about three to six inches ; this
is done by placing bricks or square pieces of wood under each
corner of the frame.

According as the melons set, observe to place a piece of tile
under each young fruit : for this will preserve them from the
damp of the earth of the bed.

OF MELONS TO BE RAISED UNDER BELL AND HAND-GLASSES
AND OILED PAPER FRAMES.

Finish making the hotbed ridges to plant the melons upon,
which are to be covered with bell or hand glasses, or with frames
covered with oil paper ; for which see the work of June. The
plants for this purpose being raised from a sowing in March, or
beginning of last month, will be now of a proper size for final
transplantation into the above hotbeds, which, if possible, should
be completed in the first or second week of this month.

These ridges must be made of the best hot stable dung : pre-
paring, first, as directed in the two former months, for other hot-
beds. And they may now be made, either in trenches three or
four feet wide, and twelve or fifteen inches deep, or on level
ground ; but by making them mostly above ground, it will afford
an opportunity of adding a lining to recruit the heat when it
declines ; however, in either method, let the hotbed ridges be
made a yard wide at least, though four or five feet would be
more eligible, and two feet and a half high ; and where two or
more ridges are to be made near together in a parallel order,
allow the space of four feet between, and which space, if filled
with any waste, moderately warm dung, and earth at top, in
about a month or five weeks after will give a larger scope for
the roots and runners to extend, and the additional moderate
heat thereof, enlivening that of the beds', will greatly assist the
setting of the fruit.

The ridges being made, get some good earth ; and if this be
light loam, and has been mixed with one fourth part of very
rotten dung some months before, it will be better for this pur-
pose; but, in default of loam, any rich garden earth will do.

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

245

The earth is not to be sifted, but very well broken, and mixed
together with the spade, and then laid not less than six to eight
or ten inches thick, all over the top of the ridge.

Then mark out along the middle, the holes for the plants,
allowing the distance of four feet between ; and set a bell or
hand-glass over each, and keep them close down till the earth
under them is warm, and then bring in the plants, which, if now
in pots, having only three at most in each, turn them carefully
out, with the ball of earth entire, and make a hole in the earth
where each glass stands ; place one pot of plants, with the ball
into each hole ; close the earth very well about the ball, and
also about the stems of the plants ; give every hole a little
water, and immediately put on the glasses.

Shade the plants from the sun, for the first two or three days,
from about eight to four o'clock ; but, after that, let them have
more and more sun every day, till they are able to bear it fully
without flagging.

Let them have air every warm day, by tilting the warmest
side of the glasses, but keep them close shut down every night.
The glasses must also be covered every night all this month
with mats.

Those plants now planted out will produce ripe fruit, some
about the end of July; but the principal crop will be in August
and September.

When any of the melon plants have Med the bell or hand-
glasses, the runners must then have liberty to run from under
them ; but they must not be trusted out before the latter end
of this month, or beginning or middle of next; being guided in
this by the temperature of the weather, which, until settled in
warm and dry, must be very cautious in training out the plants.

If, therefore, about the last week in this month, or beginning
of next, the plants have advanced considerably in runners to the
extent of the glasses, they should be trained out, provided,
however, the season is become warm, dry, and settled, not else,
before the middle of June ; raising each glass upon three props,
about two inches and a half high, and let the ends of the vines
or runners be trained out at regular distances ; being careful to
cover the ridges every night, and in all bad weather, with large
mats.

But when the vines of these plants are trained from under
the hand-glasses, it would be of great advantage to place oiled
paper frames over some of the beds, previously removing the
hand-glasses ; these frames remaining constantly night and day

246

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May.

and they admitting the light and heat of the sun sufficiently,
will prove effective beneficial shelters. — See June.

MANAGEMENT pr CUCUMBER PLANTS IN FRAMES.

Cucumber plants in frames will now be in full perfection of
bearing ; they must therefore be carefully attended.

Still support a moderate heat in the beds, by the application
of linings of hot dung, &c, where necessary. — See the two last
months.

These plants will require to be often refreshed with moderate
waterings, generally not less than twice a week ; and a morning
and afternoon are the most proper times for watering them at
this season.

The plants must also be allowed proper admission of free air
every mild day, for the sun has now great power, and if the
glasses were to be kept too close, it would destroy the plants.
Therefore, raise the upper end of the lights every warm, sunny
morning, about seven, eight, or nine o'clock, according to the
temperature of the weather ; and according as the heat of the
day increases, continue raising the glasses a proportionable
height, from one to two or three inches.

The lights must be shut close down every evening, about five
or six o'clock ; but in cold evenings shut them down an hour or
two sooner.

Shade the plants from the sun in very hot, sunny days. The
time to do this is from eleven to two o'clock.

Where the glasses are pretty close to the plants, it will now
be advisable to allow them a larger space of room, by raising
the frame three or four to five or six inches at bottom; the
plants will then enjoy the air more effectively, grow stronger,
and stand the sun with less danger of scorching their leaves.
Continue covering the glasses every night with mats all this
month, generally covering up towards sunsetting, and uncover
soon after its rising in the morning.

The early cucumbers will now be in full production of fine
fruit, which, when about four or five, to six or eight inches long,
are fit to cut for the table. ■

In the cucumbers now in bearing, should still continue to
impregnate, or set the young fruit, according as it comes into
blossom ; generally the same day that the flower expands, or
second at farthest, in the forenoon, while the generative organs
retain their fertilizing property in the fullest degree ; for this is

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

247

particularly essential in this business. — See Cucumbers in March
and April.

CUCUMBERS TO BE PLANTED UNDER HAND OR BELL-GLASSES.

Cucumbers may now be planted out on hotbed ridges, under
hand or bell-glasses.

The plants being raised for this purpose, in March, or last
month, should be planted out the beginning and middle of this :
and they will begin to bear about the beginning, or towards the
middle of June, and will continue bearing till the cold weather
in autumn destroys the plants.

The hotbeds for this purpose must be made of good hot
dung, as formerly observed ; and may be made either on level
ground, or principally now in wide trenches, as they will not
require to be lined.

If the latter is intended, choose any compartment of good
ground in the full sun ; there dig a trench, a yard wide, and
twelve or fifteen inches deep, laying the earth that comes out
neatly all along the side of the trench. Fill this trench with
fresh hot dung, and raise it from six to eight, ten, or twelve
inches above the surface of the ground ; for the beds should be
at least two feet thick of dung. Then cover the bed with the
excavated earth of the trenches, six or eight inches thick over
the top of the dung ; levelling the rest of the earth close along
each side of the bed, corresponding with that at top ; the whole
forming the bed like a sort of ridge.

But when intended to make these hotbed ridges on level
ground, let them be full four feet wide, and earthed with rich
earth, as above.

Then, in either method, as soon as the bed is earthed, mark
out the holes for the plants, exactly along the middle, three feet
six inches distance, and directly cover each place with a hand-
glass ; and in a day or two the dung will have warmed the earth,
ready for the reception of the plants.

Proceeding then to the planting, form the earth under each
glass a little hollow, circularly, and in each place, under the
said glasses, hole-in three good plants, observing if the plants
were pricked in pots last month for this occasion, plant them as
above, with the ball of earth about the roots entire ; or, if not
in pots, remove and plant them with as much earth as will
readily adhere about the roots: give them directly a little
water; then let the glasses be immediately put on, and shade
the plants from the sun till they have got root.

24S

THE KITCHEN GARDEN-

[May.

Let the plants have air every day, when it is calm and mild,
by tilting the warmest side of the glasses, and let them be re-
freshed with occasional moderate waterings : and when they
have, in advanced growth, filled up the glasses next month, train
them out in a regular order. — See June.

They must be covered every night with mats, until the mid-
dle of June.

But where good plants cannot be readily procured to plant in
the above beds, let some seed be put in early in the month ; the
plants will soon come up, and will come into bearing at a very
acceptable time in June and July.

The hotbed being made and earthed as above directed, mark
out the holes for the seed, three feet and a half asunder ; and
in the form of a shallow basin, only about an inch and a half
deep, and nine or ten inches wide. In the middle of each of
these holes, sow eight or nine seeds, half an inch deep, and then
put on the bell or hand-glasses. After the plants have been up
ten or twelve days, they must be thinned, leaving only three of
the strongest in each hole, drawing a little earth about their
stems ; and give a light watering, to settle the loosened earth
below close to the roots ; managing them afterwards according
to the foregoing directions, and they will begin to bear some
fruit in the third or fourth week in June.

CUCUMBERS TO PICKLE.

Sow cucumbers for pickling, &c, either generally now in the
natural ground, to remain for the principal crop of picklers, &c„
or occasionally in a hotbed, if coldish bad weather, to forward
them for transplanting into the open ground next month, which
is generally as soon as the plants can stand the full air in this
country.

However, in regard to sowing this crop in the open ground,
it must not be done generally till towards the middle or latter
end of the month ; or if the season is coldly unsettled, or very
wet, as has often been the case of late years, defer sowing till
the last week in this month, or the first in June, allotting for
this purpose a piece of rich free ground, digging it regularly, in
a level order, and divide it into beds of five or six feet wide,
allowing twelve inches between bed and bed for an alley; then
mark out the holes for the seed, along the middle of each bed,
allowing three feet and a half between hole and hole ; loosen
the places for the holes, breaking the earth well, and form each
in a small concave hollow, with the hand, like a shallow basin.

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

249

about an inch and a half deep, and ten or twelve inches over ;
and sow in the middle of each hole eight or ten seeds, covering
them near half an inch deep with earth.

After the seed is sown, if the weather should prove hot and
dry, it will be proper to sprinkle the holes with water : but this
must be given very moderately, just enough to moisten the
earth a little, for too much moisture in the earth would rot the
seed : but when the seed is germinated, and the young plants
coming up, give water freely in dry warm weather.

When the plants have been come up about a fortnight, they
must be thinned, and leave no more than three or four of the
best plants in every hole.

But in sowing picklers, if a cold wet season, in which these
seeds, sown in the natural ground, either rot or make but little
progress ; or that, in order to forward both the seed and young
plants a week or fortnight in growth, it would, in either case, be
proper to sow the seed in a slight hotbed, just to raise the
plants more effectively and forwarder in their young state, till
about a week or ten or twelve days old to a fortnight at most ;
then to be transplanted finally into the natural ground: the
method is as follows : —

Having a supply of proper horse stable dung, of good mode-
rate heat, make a hotbed the width of a garden frame, or not
less than a yard wide, for hand-glasses, and half a yard high,
and the length in proportion to the quantity of plants you would
raise ; as soon as the bed is thus made, either set on the frame,
and lay in the earth, or, being previously earthed, may use
hand-glasses ; or, in default of these, an awning of largo mats
occasionally: observing, in either method, to earth the bed
directly only about three or four inches thick ; and then, as it
is advisable generally to transplant these plants when quite
young, in little clusters together, sow the seed accordingly ;
that is, either sow some in small pots, several seeds in the mid-
dle of each, and plunge them in the hotbed, or for larger or
considerable supplies, sow in the earth of the bed, in little clus-
ters, with a thick blunt-ended dibble, or with your fingers con-
tracted, make holes about an inch wide, and half an inch or near
an inch deep, and about an inch and a half asunder, dropping
six or eight seeds in each hole, and cover them in with earth ;
this is called dotting them in : or instead of this you may draw
drills across the bed : the seed to be sown in the drills, observ-
ing to sow them quite thick, not generally all along the drills,
but rather in little patches, six or eight good seeds in each, so

L 2

260

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May.

close as to almost touch, and cover them half an inch deep with
earth ; allow a clear space in each drill of two inches between
each patch or cluster of seed, and let the drills be two or three
inches asunder: by thus sowing the seed in clusters, as it were,
the plants will rise in bunches for transplantation in that order,
as below : continuing, in the interim, to defend the bed, either
with the frame-light or with hand-glasses ; or, in want of these,
with mats, as before intimated, every night and all bad weather ;
and give occasional gentle waterings.

Then, when the plants have been come up about six, eight,
or ten days, and show the rough leaves in the centre, it is pro-
per to plant them out, if the weather is settled : for in this order
of culture, as after removal from the hotbed, they not having
the aid of further artificial heat, it is most successful to plant
them out while in that young state of growth, as aforesaid,
taking them up in clusters as they grow, with the earth about
their roots ; and in that manner let them be planted in the
places where they are to remain, allotting one bunch of plants
to a hole, and giving them immediately some water; they will
quickly strike root, without hardly feeling their removal ; ob-
serving, however, that if the weather should at that time prove
unfavourably cold, ma.* continue them, under occasional shelter,
in the bed a week or more longer, till the season settles in
warm.

PLANTING AND SOWING GOURDS AND PUMPKINS.

Plant out from the hotbed the gourds and pumpkins which
were sown in April : it may be done any time towards the mid-
dle or latter end of this month.

But as the fruit of these plants is not of much estimation or
value for any material culinary uses, or other economical pur-
pose, should only raise a few, where any are required, either
for any domestic occasions, both in the quite young green
growth of the fruit, and when of full maturity ; or some chiefly
by way of curiosity, for the great variety of the fruit in its
numerous different and singular shapes, sizes, colours, stripes,
and variegations, &c, from two or three inches' growth, as in
the orange and pear gourds, to one, two, or three feet, or more,
in different sorts, in round, oval, hemispherical, bottle-shaped,
barrel-shaped, star-shaped, and of various other forms.

Some of them may be planted out in the common ground, in
a warm situation, about the middle of this month, when the

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

251

weather is settled in warms they will grow freely, and produce
ripe fruit in August ; and the common pumpkin is often sown
or planted upon old dunghills ; they will spread wonderfully,
and produce much large fruit.

But in order to have any particular sort produce fruit earlier
in summer, it is effected by planting some out, the beginning
or middle of the month, upon holes of hot dung, under hand or
bell-glasses, or other occasional shelter : dig some holes, two
feet wide, and about a spade deep, in the places where the
plants are to produce their fruit, filling the holes with new horse
dung, covering that six inches deep with earth, and so plant
your gourds, &c, or may sow the seeds, and cover them with
the above glasses, or with oiled paper frames, &c, till they he-
gin to run ; then may discontinue the shelters.

However, in default of dung or glasses, for holding them out
as above, may plant any of the gourd kinds, or others, in the
full ground, in a warm situation, as aforesaid, towards the mid-
dle of the month, when settled warm weather, and the pump-
kins, &c, may be planted anywhere.

Observe to plant some of the orange, and other small gourds,
near to a wall, or other fence, or against an arbour, &c, and
when the plants begin to run, let the vines or runners be neatly
trained, and fastened up close to the wall, pales, &c. Where
this is practised, the plants, together with the fruit, will make
an agreeable appearance in the months of ■ July, August, and
September.

Or some of the gourds, and others of the moderate running
kinds, may also be occasionally supported with stakes ; that is,
when the plants begin to run, let a tall firm stake be fixed in
the ground near each plant ; and according as their vines
advance in length, let them be trained up carefully round the
stakes.

But the pumpkins, and large kinds of gourds, should now be
planted out, or seed sown in any open compartment, or upon
dunghills, &c, setting them eight or ten feet distance ; and the
plants, in their advancing growth, permitted to extend upon the
surface of the ground.

The seed of gourds and pumpkins may still be sown in the
first or second week, or any time in the month, either at once
in the full ground, or upon holes of hot dung, as above, to re-
main ror in a hotbed for transplantation, as in last month ; and
when the plants have got rough leaves, one or two inches broad,
they should be planted out in the open ground.

252

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

IMav.

But in default of hot dung, &c, sow them now in the com-
mon ground at once, in the places where they are to remain.

KIDNEY BEANS.

Now plant a full crop of kidney beans, to succeed those
planted in April.

Any of the dwarf kinds may now be planted : but the best
and most profitable for this plantation are the black speckled
dwarfs, Battersea and Canterbury white dwarfs ; or also a few
dun coloured, and large white.

Draw drills for them an inch deep, and two feet and half dis-
tance ; place the beans in the drills two or three inches asun-
der, draw the earth evenly over them, and let the surface be
lightly raked smooth.

. Plant also the scarlet runner, or any other of the running
kinds of kidney beans.

Most of the running sorts are exceeding profitable for the
service of a family, for they are surprising great bearers; but in
particular, the scarlet flowering bean ; and there is a variety of
this, that differs from it only in colour, which, both in the seed
and flowers, is .white : but their manner of growth, mode o
bearing, and pods, are similar: and both the varieties being
very plentiful bearers in long continuance, are very proper for
this plantation : the large white Dutch runners are also very
proper to plant now, are excellent beans, the pods of consider-
able length, but the plants do not continue long in production,
like the scarlet, &c.

All the running or climbing sorts of kidney beans, extending
considerably by their runners, and requiring support of tall sticks
or poles, &c, must be allowed more room to grow than the
dwarf kinds ; so that the drills for these large sorts must be
three feet six inches distant at least, and about an inch and a
half deep, or a single drill along any vacant wall, paling,
Building, &c.

Place the beans in the drills three or four inches asunder,
and cover them equally with earth.

When the plants are come up, and ' begin to push their run-
ners, then let some tall sticks or poles be placed to each row,
for the plants to climb upon. The runners will soon catch
hold, and will twine themselves naturally round the sticks or
poles, to the height of eight or ten feet, or more ; or if any are
planted in a row close against a wall, or any high fence or
building, may suspend strong packthread from above, six inches

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

253

distance, fastened tight at both ends, the lower end of which
may be tied to a stick thrust into the ground ; and the runners
will readily ascend round the strings.

There is much advantage in planting these running kinds,
especially the scarlets, &c, for a lasting crop ; for those that
are now planted will begin bearing in July or August, and con-
tinue producing plentifully till October.

Though, as in many families these are not so much esteemed
for general use as the dwarf sorts, they should be planted in
smaller or larger portions accordingly, and generally most of the
dwarfs for the main crop : nor are the running kinds so much
cultivated by the market gardeners, as large quantities would
require great trouble to stick them, and are not generally so
saleable as the dwarf beans.

However, in private gardens, should generally cultivate tole-
rable crops of the runners, more or less, for the supply of a
family, as during the season they will be always in ready pro-
duction : two sowings, one this month and another in June,
will furnish plenfcjful supplies of young pods, in constant suc-
cession, from July till the middle or end of October.

CAPSICUMS FOR PICKLING.

The capsicums for pickling which were "sown and raised in a
hotbed, in March or April, should now be transplanted into the
full ground.

But as these plants are tender, and being raised in a hotbed,
must not be planted out till settled warm weather, or towards
the middle or latter end of the month.

Dig a spot of rich ground for their reception, and rake the
surface smooth, then put in the plants by line, a foot asunder
every way, and water them.

LOVE-APPLES, FOR SOUPS, &0.

Plant out tomatoes, or love-apples, from the hotbed where
raised, about the middle or latter end of the month, to produce
fruit in autumn, for pickling, soups, &c.

These plants being trailers, and very luxuriant and rambling
in their growth, must therefore be planted close to a wall, pales,
or espaliers; and when they begin to branch out, must be
trained, and nailed to the wall or pales in the manner of a wall-
tree, or may be trained to strong stakes.

Observe, they must be planted against a south wall or other
south fence, or in some sunny exposure ; for if planted in the

254

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May.

shade the fruit would not ripen. Any wide vacant spaces be-
tween wall trees would suit them well, and will produce ripe
fruit in August or September, &c.

One stout plant in a place is sufficient. Water them as soon
as they are planted, and shade them from the sun till they have
taken root ; and a little shelter of hand-glasses, &c, in cold
nights, for the first fortnight, would be very serviceable.

ASPARAGUS.

Asparagus will now be fit to cut for use.

In cutting the shoots of these plants, it should be observed,
that, when they are advanced about two or three to four or five
inches above ground, they should be gathered ; but those about
two to three or four inches are generally in prime order, while
the top bud or head remains compact ; which when permitted
to run, soon becomes open and loose, and of less estimation.

When proceeding to cut or gather them, be careful to thrust
your knife down close by the side of the shoots you intend to
cut, lest you wound or destroy any young buds that are coming
up in succession, and do not yet appear ; cutting the shoots off
slanting, about three or four inches within the ground. — See
April.

Let the beds of these plants be now carefully cleaned from
weeds, which, at this season, will be advancing very numerously,
and should therefore either give a careful hand- weeding; or.
with a small hoe, taking opportunity of a dry day, cut up all
weeds clean within the surface, and they will soon all die effec-
tually.

TRANSPLANTING LETTUCE.

In moist weather, transplant Cos lettuce and other kinds
which were sown the two former months.

Choose a rich spot for these plants, in a free open situation,
not encumbered with spreading trees, &c, which would draw
the plants up slender, without forming good hearts ; dig the
ground neatly, and rake the surface smooth ; then put in the
plants in rows, ten or twelve inches asunder, and give some
water to settle the earth about their roots; giving also occa-
sional after-waterings, till the plants have taken root.

Such lettuces, in young plants, of two or three inches ad-
vance, as are intended to remain where sown, to attain full
growth, should now be thinned regularly, in proper time, about
a foot or fifteen inches distant ; or any among other crops, as

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

255

onions, leeks, carrots, &c, must be thinned more considerably,
or generally, not less than two or three feet asunder.

SOW LETTUCE- SEED.

Sow lettuce-seed ; this should be done at two or three dif-
ferent times this month, that there may be a constant supply of
these plants in good perfection, in successional order in the
proper season, which, from these sowings come into full
growth in July and August, to succeed those of the spring-sown
crops.

The white and the green Cos lettuces, ^Egyptian, spotted Cos,
Cilician, and imperial, are all proper kinds to sow now : or oc-
casionally the grand admirable, large white Dutch, and the
brown Dutch, &c., so in the whole may choose the most desir-
able.

An open situation must be chosen in which to sow these
seeds where the ground is light and rich ; sow each sort sepa-
rate, and rake them in light and evenly.

The beds wherein these seeds are sown must be often re-
freshed with water in dry weather, to promote a free growth,
both in the seed and young plants.

TYING UP EARLY LETTUCE.

E arly Cos lettuce, of some advanced growth, beginning te
heart a little, may, in some of the largest plants, have the leaves
tied up together moderately, with a string of bass, which will
forward their cabbaging and whitening in the heart sooner for
use, and render them more crisp and tender for eating.

SMALL SALAD ING.

Sow cresses, mustard, radish, rape, and other small salad
seeds often.

When a constant supply of these small herbs are required
young, there should be some seed of each sort put into the
ground once every week or fortnight.

Observe, if the weather proves hot and dry, it is proper to
sow these seeds now on a somewhat shady border. Draw
shallow drills, and sow the seeds therein very thick, and cover
them lightly with earth. In dry weather, give them a mode-
rate watering every other day

•256

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May

•> SPINACH.

Spinach may still be sown, where required in continued suc-
cession, sowing generally the round leaved sort, and mostly in
an open situation.

In some families spinach is required in succession all sum-
mer, or in continuance some part of that season ; in which case,
some seed should be sown every twelve or fourteen days, as the
plants of the summer sowings soon run up to stalks, in a use-
less growth : sow the seed moderately thin, and rake it well
into the ground ; or may occasionally sow it in shallow fiat
drills, twelve to fifteen inches asunder, covering in the seed
regularly.

Hoe and thin the young spinach of last month's sowing ;
eradicate all weeds: and where the plants stand thick, thin
them moderately, in some regular order, especially those pro-
duced from the broad-cast sowing, not so material in those
growing in drills.

Should now, the beginning or middle of this month, if not
done, leave some best sorts of spinach to run for seed, both of
the winter crop, of the triangular-leaved kind, and early spring-
sown plants of the round-leaved, to have a proper supply of
seed of both varieties.

TURNIPS.

Sow more turnips : they will come in at a fine season ; fit
to draw for the table by the middle or latter end of June : but
will be in excellent order till the beginning of August.

Allot an open compartment of mellow ground ; and, while
fresh turned up, sow the seed, moderately thin and equally in
every part ; tread it evenly down, and rake it in regularly.

Hoe and thin the turnips which were sown the last month :
cut up all the weeds, and thin the plants regularly, to seven or
eight inches distance.

This work of thinning should always be performed when the
rough leaves are about the breadth of a man's thumb, or before
they grow much larger, as the work can then be effected with
greater expedition and regularity.*

CLEANING AND THINNING CARROTS AND PARSNEPS.

Carrots and parsneps will now be advancing fast in their

* General crops of turnips should always be sown in drills, about an inch deep and
not less than twelve or fifteen inches apart.

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

257

growth, and should be properly encouraged : clear them from
weeds, and thin the plants out to due distances.

This work may be done either by hand or hoe ; but, for
large crops particularly, small-hoeing them is the preferable
method, both as the most expeditious, and by loosening the sur-
face of the ground with the hoe, it will greatly promote the free
growth of the plants.

However, at any rate, let these plants be cleared from
weeds, and thinned out to proper distances, that they nay have
full liberty to grow at top and swell at bottom. Thin out,
therefore, the general crops, to about six or seven inches dis-
tance at least, and cut down all weeds. There is great advan-
tage in allowing these plants room enough, for then their roots
will be large, long, and straight ; the parsneps in particular, if
thinned from above seven or eight to ten or twelve inches dis-
tance, the roots will swell considerably larger, and attain their
utmost perfection.

Such crops of carrots, however, as are intended to be drawn
gradually for the table while young, need not be thinned at
first to more than four or five inches distance ; as by a gradual
thinning out the larger for use, the rest will gain more and more
room daily.

But the main crops of carrots that you intend shall remain
to grow to full size, should be thinned to the proper distance at
once, from above six to seven or eight inches distance.

SOWING CARROTS.

Carrot-seed may still be sown where required : it will grow
freely, and the plants will come up soon, and they will be ready
in young growth to draw for the table by the latter end of July,
or soon in August, and continue in fine order all the autumn
season.

ONIONS.

The crops of onions should, towards the middle or latter end
of this month, be perfectly well cleared from weeds ; and the
plants intended for the main crop of bulbers should be thinned
in proper time from about three to four or five inches distance ;
being careful to leave the strongest plants.

This work may either be performed by hand or with the
small hoe ; the latter is the quickest method, and by stirring the
ground with the hoe, &c, it is of great service to the growth of
the plants, having for this purpose a small one-hand hoe, about

258

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May.

two inches broad ; observing in the main crops designed wholly
for full bulbing, to thin them regularly to at least about three
or four inches distance.

But where a supply of young onions are wanted for thinning
out by degrees for various domestic occasions, both as young
cibols and in small bulbous growths, there should be a crop
reserved' unthinned for that purpose ; but observing to thin them
regularly as you draw them for use, leaving a sufficiency for
a tolerable crop, of the most promising plants to stand for full
bulbing.

HAMBURGH PARSLEY, SCORZONERA, AND SALSAFY.

The young crops of Hamburgh, or large-rooted parsley, scor-
zonera, and salsafy, must now be carefully cleaned from weeds,
and the plants should be thinned or hoed out to proper distances]
that their roots may have room to swell ; thinning them about
six or seven inches asunder.

The seeds of scorzonera and salsafy should now be sown for
the winter crop. Sow them in the first or second week of this
month, in an open spot of ground, each sort separate, and rake
them in.

These plants when sown early, are apt to run up for seed
before they are hardly fit for use. But those that are sown
now will not run, and their roots will be in excellent order for
the table by Michaelmas, and continue good till spring follow-
ing.

CABBAGES AND SAVOYS.

Tbansplant spring-sown cabbage and savoy plants for autumn
and winter use, also red cabbages.

These should be allotted an open situation : or some may
be planted between rows of early cauliflowers, or wide rows of
garden beans, or French beans.

But where there is ground to spare, and clear of other crops,
it will be more advisable to allot all these kinds of plants an
open compartment by themselves. Plant them out, if possible
in moist weather, in rows two feet or two and a half asunder
and about two feet distance in the lines ; and as soon as they
are planted give each a little water.

Draw earth about the stems of early cabbages, and others ,
this will strengthen the plants greatly, and will also bring them
forward in their growth.

The earliest cabbages will now be well advanced in growth,

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

259

have formed tolerable full hearts, and begin to turn their inner
leaves for cabbaging ; they may be greatly assisted and brought
forward by tying their leaves together. Get some bass, and go
over the plants row by row, and let such of the forwardest with
fullest hearts, as begin now to turn their leaves the most con-
cavely inward, in order for heading, be tied. In doing this,
observe to gather all the leaves up regularly ; and then, with
some bass strings, tie them together; but do not tie them too
tight, for that would occasion the plants to rot.

This will bring the plants forward for use sooner by a week
or fortnight than they would naturally be of themselves ;
and they will be much whiter in the heart, and more tender to
eat.

Sow sugar-loaf cabbage-seed, and any other close, quick-
hearting kinds, for summer and autumn, coleworts, and young
autumn cabbages.

Likewise sow some savoys to plant out in July and August
for a successional winter crop.

EARLY CAULIFLOWERS.

The cauliflowers that were defended with hand-glasses all
winter and spring, being now of considerably advanced growth,
should have the glasses wholly discontinued, if not done the end
of last month.

Look over early cauliflowers often, about the middle or lat-
ter end of the month ; some of the plants will then begin to show
their flower-heads in the centre ; and as soon as these appear,
they should be screened from the sun and wet, which would
both occasion them to open, and change their peculiar white-
ness to that of a yellowish hue.

Therefore, as soon as a flower appears in some advanced
growth, let some of the largest leaves be broke down over it.
This will answer the double purpose of shading the head from
the sun, and defending it from wet, whereby the cauliflowers
will be preserved in their natural whiteness, and will be close,
firm, and beautiful.

These plants should in very dry weather be occasionally
watered; for this will cause the heads to grow to a larger
size.

TRANSPLANTING CAULIFLOWERS.

Transplant, if not done last month, the young cauliflower
plants raised this spring from seed.

260

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May.

For the reception of these young plants, let a piece of the
richest ground be chosen, and spread thereon some good rotten
dung, and then dig the ground one spade deep, and as you go
on, let the dung be regularly buried.

The plants are to be set in this compartment at two feet, or
two feet and a half each way asunder ; and they must be
watered as soon as they are planted.

There may be sown, if you choose it, on the same ground,
between the cauliflower plants, a thin crop of spinach, or a thin
sprinkling of salmon radishes, &c.

SOWING CAULIFLOWER-SEED FOR A MICHAELMAS CROP.

Sow cauliflower-seed ; the plants that are raised from this
sowing will come into use in October, and will be in high per-
fection the greatest part of November, and sometimes longer.

This is what the London gardeners call the Michaelmas
cauliflowers.

Observe, the seed for this crop must not be sown till about
the 24th of this month ; at which time prepare a three or four
feet wide bed of rich earth, in a free situation.

Get some good seed of the last year's saving ; sowthisequally,
moderately thick, and rake it in carefully, and sprinkle the bed
often in dry weather with water.

When the plants have got two or three leaves an inch broad,
they should be pricked out into a nursery-bed to attain strength
for final transplantation. See June and July.

BROCOLI.

Buocoli seeds, both of the purple and white kinds, must be
sown in this month, for the second principal crop for use the
following winter and spring.

It will be advisable to sow a little of this seed at two differ-
ent times this month, in order to have a proper supply : there-
fore sow some seed of both kinds in the first week in the month,
and more about the twentieth or twenty-fourth ; the plants
raised from these sowings will produce their heads probably
some in December and January ; and the others more generally
in February, March, and April, but in greatest perfection the
two last named months ; and after the main heads are gathered,
the stalks of the purple sort particularly will yield abundance
of excellent sprouts, but rarely any from the white, or cauli-
flower brocoli.

These seeds must be sown in a bed or border of rich earth.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 261

in an open exposure, each kind separate, and rake them in re-
gularly. .

But in order to have brocoli produce heads before Christmas,
that is, in October, November, and December, you must sow
some seeds of each kind in March, or beginning or middle of
April, which see.

BORE-COLE.

Sow bore-cole, otherwise brown-cole, for next autumn, win-
ter, and spring use, if not done in March and April. — For di-
rections, see last Month.

SOW AND PLANT SAVOYS.

Sow savoy seed for a latter crop : the true green savoy is
the best sort to sow now, for it is the hardest to stand the

winter. . ; y

This seed may be sown any time in the month, and will come
in very well for a late crop ; but to have a good crop of full-
headed plants, let the seed, if possible, be sown in the first or
second week in the month ; the plants will soon come up, and
will be fit to transplant in the end of June, and in July, and be-
ginning of August. Generally sow the seed in a free, open
exposure, and rake it in regularly.

The plants raised from this sowing will be tolerably well
cabbaged by November, and will continue good till March.

Plant out some early sown savoys, two feet distance, to cab-
bage in September and October, &c.

PLANTING AND HOEING BEANS.

Plant more garden beans for latter crops in July, August, and
September.

The Windsor, Toker, and Sandwich kinds will yet succeed
tolerably well ; and the long-pod sand white-blossom beans are
also very proper to plant any time this month.

But where a constant succession of young beans are desired
all the summer season, there should be some seeds put into the
ground at three different times this month, allowing ten or twelve
days, or not exceeding a fortnight, between each planting ; and
at this season it will be of advantage to allow them a situation
where the ground is moistest, if there is a choice of soil, plant-
ing them in rows a yard asunder.

Hoe the ground between the rows of advancing young beans,

262

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Ma?.

cutting up all weeds, and draw earth about the stems of the
plants.

MANAGEMENT OF BEANS IN BLOSSOM.

Now it will be proper to top such beans as are in bloom, to
promote the free setting of the pods.

This should, in the beginning or middle of the month, be
particularly practised to the early crops, provided it was not
done last month.

By this practice the pods will set sooner, and swell faster,
and be better nourished, and come in almost a week soonei
than if the plants were permitted to run ; for having no advan-
cing top to nourish, their whole effort goes to that of the fruit.

But let this be performed to beans in general now in full
blossom ; observe to let the stems be first advanced to such a
due height, as to have a sufficient quantity of pods ; the early
Mazagan bean may be topped when about two feet high, and
the larger sorts should be topped when from about two feet and
a half or yard, to three and a half high, according to the growth
of the different varieties.

But with respect, however, to the small early beans, if you
would have them come in as early as possible, you should top
them as soon as the blossom at the bottom of the stalks begin
to open.

SOWING PEAS.

Sow likewise more peas. To have a regular supply, let
some be sown at least twice in this month ; but where constant
supplies of young peas are much wanted, three or four sowings
will not be too often, and there will be the greater chance of
success in the late sowing.

The best sorts to sow now are the marrowfats ; also may
sow the Spanish moratto, green and white rouncivals, being
fine large sorts ; likewise any of the hotspur kinds, and Prussian
peas, &c. ; and those that are sown any time in this month will
sometimes yield tolerably good crops toward the latter end of
July, and in August, &c.

This is now a proper time to sow any of the dwarf kinds ot
peas. These sorts seldom grow above two or three feet high ;
Some not above fifteen or eighteen inches, but are mostly great
Dearers ; the pods small but numerous; and the peas, while
young, eat sweet and good ; and generally those sown at this
season will be more productive than the larger kinds, though

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

263

not so advisable to sow in large quantities for any principal
crops. Sow them in drills two feet, or two and a half asunder.

Now hoe, and let some earth be drawn up about the stems
of the crops of peas which were sown in April, for this will
strengthen the plants greatly.

The early hotspur peas now in blossom, in warm borders,
may be topped, as directed for the beans ; it will cause the
pods to set and swell more freely, and will be fit to gather
sooner.

STICKING PEAS.

Continue also to place sticks to rows of peas, according to
the advancing growth of the different young crops, for the
plants to climb upon in their natural order, in an upright growth;
which, where intended, should generally be done when they are
about six. or seven inches high.

There is great advantage in allowing sticks of a proper height,
for the different sorts of peas to climb upon ; for the produce
is generally not only much superior, but more abundant, often
double the quantity, or more, than those that are permitted to
run upon the ground.

The sticks for this purpose should be from four or five to
seven feet high, according to the growth of the different sorts
of peas ; the sticks should also be very branchy, or well fur-
nished with small lateral branches, that the plants may readily
take hold without falling on the ground ; and should be pre-
pared in a fanned manner, so as the side branches extend only
the way of the rows.

They should be placed on the most sunny side of the rows ;
at least towards the east or mid-day sun, where the position
or range of the rows admit ; for the sun will naturally incline
the plants that way, and they will more readily catch the
sticks ; and the sticks should be placed at such distances in
the rows as the branches of each other may meet.

This work is very practicable in private gardens, but would
be endless labour for large crops in fields, &c, for supply of the
markets.

ENDIVE.

Sow endive for an early crop : principally some of the white,
and a small portion of the green, and if required in constant
succession, it will be adviseable to sow some seed at two dif-
ferent times this month, and when the plants of each sowing are

264

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May.

about three or four inches in growth, plant out some of the
strongest a foot distance.

But never depend on the sowings of this month for a main
standing crop, the plants being apt to run up soon to seed the
same year ; however, where a few early plants are required, may
sow a little seed about the beginning or middle of the month,
and more towards the latter end ; the plants of the first sowing
will not continue fit for use long; but the second sowing will
not run so soon.

But the season for sowing the principal autumn and winter
crops, is in the beginning, middle, and latter end of June, and
in July ; and the plants from those sowings attain full growth in
August, September, and October, and generally continue, with-
out running for seed, till next spring.

This seed should be sown in an open spot of rich earth ; it
must not be sown thick, and take great care to rake it evenly
into the ground.

SOWING POT-HERBS, AND OTHER AROMATIC3, &o.

Parsley seed may still be sown, where it has been omitted in
the spring ; as may also the seeds of most other pot-herbs, if
not done in March or April ; but should also be sown early in
the present month.

Sow more purslane seed, where the plants are in request
either for culinary uses, or salads, &c. ; this should be done in
the beginning of this month, to succeed that which was sown
in April. This seed will now grow freely, in a bed of light rich
earth, in the open ground ; rake the surface even, then draw
shallow drills six inches asunder. Sow the seed moderately
thick, and cover it about a quarter or half an inch with earth.

Where coriander is constantly wanted, it will now be proper
to sow a little more of the seed, for that which is sown early is
apt to run : sow it in drills six inches asunder.

Sow chervil,' where wanted, it will still succeed : let this seed
be also sown in shallow drills, and cover it lightly with earth,
or sown broad-cast and raked in.

May also still sow borage, sorrel, burnet, fennel, dill, mari-
golds, nasturtiums, &c. — See March and April.

The seeds of thyme, savory, hyssop, and marjorum, or any
other aromatic or sweet herbs, may also still be sown ; but let
this be done the beginning of the month, observing the same
method of sowing as directed in March and April.

May.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

265

PROPAGATING AROMATIC PLANTS BY CUTTINGS AND SLIPS.

Propagate aromatic plants by slips or cuttings ; most sorts of
them will still succeed.

The sorts proper to plant now are sage, savory, and hyssop :
/iiarjorum, and lavender ; and the slips or cuttings of these sorts
will now grow very freely.

Choose for this purpose the best young side shoots, of some
tolerable strength, and slip or cut off a quantity, about five, six,
or seven inches long ; strip off the under leaves, then plant
them in a shady border, &c, five or six inches apart, inserted
two-thirds of their length into the ground, and in dry weather
moderately watered.

Plant also, where required, slips or cuttings of rosemary, rue,
and wormwood. Let the cuttings or slips of these plants be six
or eight inches in length ; and plant them five or six inches
asunder, in the shady border, inserting each cutting more than
half way into the earth.

Sage, of the different sorts, may now be very successfully
propagated by slips of the young side shoots, detached about
six inches long, pulling away the under leaves : plant them in
a shady border, almost to their tops, six inches asunder, and
watered ; they will soon strike root, and shoot at top, and form
bushy plants the same summer ; observing, that if in their first
growth, any spindle up to flower, cut that part off close, to make
the plants grow more stocky below, and to branch out full and
bushy.

MINT.

Mint may also be planted now, where new beds are wanted.

Procure sets for this purpose, either rooted young plants or
cuttings of the stalks, as directed in the two last months ; they
must be planted in beds or borders, in rows six inches asunder,
by four inches in the row, and give them some water to settle
the earth well about their roots.

SUPPORTING PLANTS FOR SEED.

Now support the stems or stalks of such plants as were plant-
ed for seed.

The onions and leeks, in particular, will now require this care ;
for the stalks of these plants will be run up to a good height :
and if they are not secured in due time, the winds and heavy
rains will break them down.

M

266

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[May.

The best method of supporting the stems of these plants, is
to drive some firm stakes into the ground, along the rows of
plants, placing the stakes about two or three yards asunder in
the row : then let some thin long poles, or strong lines, be fast-
ened from stake to stake close along each side of the seed-
stalks. ,

Support likewise the stems of cabbages, savoys, and broccoli,
which are for seed ; having some stout stakes, let one or two
be driven into the ground, close to every plant, and the princi-
pal stems be tied thereto securely.

SOWING RADISHES.

Sow more radishes ; the salmon kind is very proper for this
sowing ; but sow also some short tops and small white turnip-
radish ; choose an open situation, sow the seed thin and rake
it in properly.

It is proper to sow three different times this month, to con-
tinue a proper succession ; but must be often watered in dry
hot weather, both before and after the plants are come up.

Hoe, or weed and thin the advancing young crops of turnip-
radishes, &c, as in last month.

PLANTING RADISHES FOR SEEDS.

Transplant radishes for seed when the roots are just in their
prime, in the first and second weeks of the month ; and if
showery weather, it will be a particular advantage.

Choose for this purpose of the common radishes, the long,
perfectly straight rooted, and with short tops.

Have also some regard to the colour of the root, that is,
if the common red, or short-topped radish ; those that are of
a clear pale red are preferable, as they generally eat more crisp
and mild than those of a dark red colour ; and when intended
to save seed of the salmon radish, although these will be natu-
rally of a pale red, yet, to preserve the sorts, it will be proper
to plant the palest coloured roots.

The principal reason why radishes for seed are directed to
be transplanted is, that, having drawn up a quantity for that
purpose can readily judge of the goodness of the root, taking
only what are of the right sort.

Plant them by dibble in rows in an open situation : the rows
must be two or three feet asunder, and the plants must be set
jbout two feet from one another in the row ; let them be well
watered as soon as they are planted, to settle the earth properly

May.]

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267

about the roots. They will shoot up strong stalks and ripen
seed in September.

Likewise turnip-radishes for seed, either transplant or leave
where growing ; some best well-shaped roots, orbicularly round,
good-coloured, of neat moderate growth, and small tops.

PRICK OUT AND PLANT CELERY.

Prick out from the seedbed some of the celery plants which
were sown in March.

Dig for this purpose one or more beds of light rich earth, and
rake them even ; then draw out of the seedbed some best plants
in a thinning manner, and prick them in the other beds, three to
four or five inches distance : give directly a moderate watering,
and repeat it occasionally till the plants get fresh root : and'
being thus planted, they are to remain in growth a month, or
five or six weeks, to acquire proper strength ; then transplanted
finally into trenches to remain for blanching, by landing up in
their advancing growth. — See June, July, &c.

Let those remaining in the seedbed be watered, if dry wea-
ther, to settle the earth about the roots, loosened, in thinning
out the above.

Plant out celery in trenches of the earliest sowing of Fetor
ary and March. — See June.

SOWING CELERY.

Sow celery seed for a principal latter crop : this should be
done in the first or second week of the month.

Dig a bed of light rich earth, and lay the surface perfectly
even; then sow the seeds and rake them in lightly with a very
even hand..

In hot sunny weather it would prove very beneficial to shade
the bed every day, from ten to three o'clock, till the plants ap-
pear.

Likewise, let the bed, in dry weather, be refreshed every othei
evening with a light moderate watering.

The plants from this sowing will be fit to plant out into
trenches in July, August, and September, and to take up for
the table from October till Christmas, and for a spring supply.

CARDOONS.

The cardoons which were sown in March or April, should
now be thinned where they have risen too thick, that the plants
may have room to grow and get strength by next month, when

268

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[May

they should be planted where they are to remain for landing up
to blanch.

These plants should now be thinned to about four or five in .
ches distance ; or some may be pricked six inches distance on a
nursery bed, to remain till next month, when the whole should
be transplanted finally.

DESTROYING WEEDS.

Now let more than common care be taken to destroy weeds
among crops of every kind, and in every part throughout the
ground.

There is no work in the kitchen garden that requires more
attention now than this ; for weeds are at no time more de-
trimental to crops than the present, especially among all close-
growing crops of small young plants. It should, therefore, now
be one of the principal works in this ground, to destroy them
before they grow large, to overrun and be detrimental to the
advancing young crops, and require double labour and perplex-
ing trouble to eradicate them, especially among close crops of
small plants.

But, in particular, let the crops of onions, leeks, carrots, par-
sneps, lettuce, and all other small crops that grow pretty close,
be timely cleared from weeds. That is, let the weeds be clear-
ed away, either by hand-weeding or small hoeing, before they
begin to spread, or overtop the plants, which they would soon
do, when once they begin to run ; and in that case would do
much damage to the crops.

Besides, when weeds are suffered to grow large among any
small crops, so as to mix and entangle with one another, and
with the plants, it renders the work of hoeing or weeding them
extremely tedious, and very troublesome to perform.

But weeds between rows of peas, beans, and kidney-beans,
cabbage, cauliflowers, and such other crops as stand distant in
rows, there can be nothing more easy than to stop their pro-
gress, because there is room between the plants to admit a large
hoe ; and with such an instrument a person may go over a large
piece of ground in a little time.

WATERING NEW-PLANTED CROPS.

Watering in dry weather, is now a very needful work to all
newly transplanted crops, both in young seedling pricked-out
plants, and others of larger growth, finally transplanted : such
as cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuce, celery, &c, always giving a

May.]

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269

watering at planting, where water is conveniently situated, and
the quantity of plants not too considerable to render the work
very laborious and tedious ; repeating the waterings till the
plants take root and grow.

This work proving so very beneficial in accelerating the fresh
rooting, and setting the plants off in a free growth from the be-
ginning, it should never be omitted, where convenience of water
and time permit.

But watering would also be of much advantage occasionally
to young plants of various sorts remaining in seed beds, and
others of continuance therein, in very dry hot weather at this
season.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

WALL TREES.

Wall-trees will now, in general, begin to make strong and
numerous shoots ; and they should be regulated, and trained
the right way, before they grow into confusion,

Apricots, peaches, and nectarines, in particular, demand this
care now, and also plum and cherry trees. .

Let all these trees be looked over some time this month, as
early as possible, before they advance considerably into disor-
der in the first shoots, and cleared from all such of the new
shoots as are useless and ill placed ; at the same time, be parti-
cularly careful that a plentiful supply of all the best, well placed,
useful shoots be retained, and, when of due length, trained in
close and regular to the wall.

All irregular placed, fore right, and other disorderly placed
and superfluous shoots, must be displaced ; these being such as
are produced either from the front of the branches, in a fore
right direction, or otherwise so irregularly situated or super-
abundant, as they cannot be properly trained in with the requisite
regularity, therefore become useless, and the most irregular and
improper should now be cleared away.

Likewise all very luxuriant shoots are, for the general part,
to be considered as of the useless kind ; that is, such as are re-
markably more vigorous and rambling in growth than the gen-
erality of the other shoots of the same tree, and should be mostly
displaced, unless any shall seem necessary in particular parts to

270

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[May.

fill a vacancy, or furnish a future supply of wood ; in which cases
some occasional shoots of these kinds should be left, and all the
others of them cleared off quite close.

And being careful in selecting and retaining a plentiful sup-
ply of the most proper, well placed shoots, in all parts of the
tree for training, and, at the same time observing, that where
they appear superfluous, or in too great abundance in any part,
and that it is obvious they are absolutely not all wanted, or can-
not be converted to useful training, if left till winter pruning, the
superabundant, though of proper growth and well placed, as they
cannot be all trained with proper regularity, should be displaced
in a somewhat regular thinning order, taking out what are, ap-
parently, the most improper and unnecessary, leaving a plenti-
ful abundance of the best and most promising shoots for training;
and by thus clearing the tree early of unnecessary young shoots,
the regular figure of the tree is all along preserved, and the re-
maining supply of shoots, as well as the fruit, will receive all
proper nourishment.

But generally leave a double or treble sufficiency of the best
side-shoots, that are of a kind and moderate growth, and which
are well situated for laying in ; as likewise the terminal shoot
of each branch, and all trained in close to the wall, in regular
order.

For it is particularly necessary to leave as many of the well
placed shoots of apricots, peaches, nectarines, and morrello
cherry-trees, as can be conveniently laid in ; for these trees
principally produce their fruit upon the one-year-old shoots ;
that is, the shoots that are produced this summer bear fruit next
year. Therefore it is most necessary at this season to leave a
sufficient quantity of the well situated and kindly growing
shoots, that there may be enough to choose from in the general
winter pruning.

Likewise observe, that all these shoots, now retained, when
about eight, ten, or twelve inches long, must be nailed up close,
and as regularly as possible to the wall, and each at full length j
they should not be shortened at any time of the summer, for
that will prove of worse consequence than may be generally
conceived.

For were those shoots to be shortened while in their princi-
pal summer's growth, it, by stopping their shooting in length,
would cause them to produce from their sides a number of use-
less shoots, one almost from each eye, which would not only
prove hurtful to the principal shoots in their future production,

May.]

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271

but would also occasion so full a shade as to prevent the sun,
and free air, rains, &c, from having due access to the present
fruit, to promote its growth in a regular manner ; for, although
a slight shade proves necessary in promoting the free growth of
all kinds of wall-fruit, yet a too full shade of wood and leaves
together is greatly retarding and unfavourable to its general
prosperity, and contrary to the original intent of having wall-
trees.

With regard, however, to shortening the young shoots of
these trees at this time, it may in some cases be practised to
particular shoots, in the latter end of this month, or in June : for
instance if there is any considerable vacant space either in young
or old trees, may shorten one or more of the strongest of the
neighbouring shoots, situated in, or contiguous to, the place
where wood is wanted : shortening them to three or four eyes,
and they will soon after shoot out again, the same season, pro-
bably, a shoot from each remaining eye or bud, to furnish the
vacancy more effectually.

In the earlier summer dressing of wall-trees this month, when
the first shoots do not exceed one, two, or three inches long,
most of the requisite pruning may be performed by rubbing off
the useless shoots with the finger and thumb, without the use of
a knife ; but when more advanced in a woody growth, the knife
only must be used.

APPLES, PEARS, PLUMS, &c.

Apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, either against walls or
espaliers, should also be looked over some time towards the end
of this month ; for these trees should also be divested of all
useless and ill-growing shoots of the year, and the necessary
proper ones trained in regularly.

In this pruning of these trees, in the wall and espalier order,
let all shoots produced fore-right from the front of the branches
be taken off close ; likewise the superfluous shoots, or such as
rise in parts of the trees, where not wanted, and such as cannot
be regularly trained in, should also be taken away.

But observe, that although these trees mostly continue bear-
ing many years on the same branches, and do not require a
general annual supply of young wood, as in peaches, nectarines,
&c, it is proper to leave, in different parts, some of the best
placed, moderate growing side-shoots, but particularly in the
most vacant places, to train in between the main branches, and
a leading one to each branch ; for it is essentially eligible to re-

272

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[May.

tain a moderate supply of the best regular-placed shoots at this
time, to choose from in the general winter pruning.

The shoots which are now left, must also, when of proper
length, be trained in close to the wall, or espalier ; and each
shoot must be laid in at its full length, for the reason before
observed for the apricot and peach-trees, &c. Besides, the
apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, should never be shortened,
only in particular cases, for the reasons explained in winter
pruning of these trees.

Where, however, there is any great vacancy, it may be pro-
per to shorten some of the adjoining young shoots of the year
to three or four eyes, the latter end of this month, or in June,
to promote their producing a supply of lateral shoots the same
season, to supply the vacant parts.

Young wall and espalier trees, that are advancing in a train-
ing state, should also be attended to now in their early shooting,
to displace the improper and ill-placed growths, and retain all
the well-placed proper shoots for regular training, both for an
additional supply of branches in the general formation of the
trees, and to form future bearers for production of fruit.

THIN APRICOTS, &c.

Thin apricots, peaches, and nectarines, where the young fruit
are set too thick upon the trees.

These trees in favourable seasons, sometimes set superabun-
dant crops of fruit, often in thick clusters, and considerably
more in general than they can supply with full nourishment ;
so that if the whole, or too many, were retained, they would not
have room to grow, and the greater part would be small, and
not attain good perfection of maturity. Besides, the great super-
abundancy of fruit would draw most of the nourishment, that
the trees would not be able to produce a general sufficiency of
proper shoots, capable of bearing any tolerable production of
good fruit the year or two following ; and likewise if left too
close, they having short impliant foot-stalks, would thrust One
another off the branches in their advancing growth.

Therefore, where these fruits 'are produced too thick upon
the trees, let them now be reduced in a thinning regularity to
a good moderate full crop on each tree ; and the sooner this is
done the better it will be for the trees, and also for the remain-
ing fruit.

This thinning should be performed in a careful manner, look-
ing over the branches regularly ; and single out, on each branch,

May.]

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273

the fruit that it is proper to leave ; selecting the most promising
and best shaped, having some regard also to those that are best
situated on the branches. Bach kind, according to its size of
full growth, must be left at such distances, that every one may
have sufficient room to swell, and grow freely to its full maturity
accordingly : as for instance, suppose a tree is in general good
condition of growth, and allowing the bearing shoots or branches
to be of three different sizes, that is, the strong, middling, and
weakly, may retain upon the strongest two or three of the
fairest and best placed fruit, upon the middling shoots no more
than two, and only one or two upon the weaker shoots ; not
generally leaving two or more nearer together than within three,
four, or five inches, according to their respective sizes, when of
full growth.

Where the above distances, and quantity of fruit left upon
the different branches, are nearly observed in thinning, they
will bring each kind to due perfection ; and the trees will shoot
freely, and produce a sufficient quantity of good wood to pro-
duce fruit next year.

This should be the method of thinning the common sizes of
these kinds of fruit-; but the smaller kinds may be left closer
and a great number of each kind may be left upon the different
branches ; such as the early masculine apricots, the nutmeg
peaches, and early nectarines.

The young fruit that are thinned off are excellent for tarts,
&c, particularly the apricots, but the others are also eligible.

DESTROYING SNAILS.

Snails often make great havoc among the choice kinds of
young wall-fruit, where they are not interrupted; they par-
ticularly frequent the apricots, nectarines, and peach-trees, and
will do mischief to thpse kinds of fruit, if hot prevented.

These trees should be often looked over early in a morning,
and in an evening, and after showers of rain ; at which times
these creeping vermin come forth from their holes to feed upon
the fruit, and may then be readily taken and destroyed.

. CLEANING THE FRUIT-TREE BORDERS.

The borders where wall and espalier-trees grow, should be
kept remarkably clear from weeds : for these not only appear
disagreeable and exhaust the nourishment, but afford harbour
for snails, slugs, and other crawling insects to the detriment of
the fruit. _

274

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[May.

Therefore, when weeds appear in these parts, and where
there is room to admit of hoeing between any crops that may
be growing on the borders, let a sharp hoe be applied to them
in a dry sunny day, by which you may soon stop their pro
gress ; and as soon as hoed, rake off all the weeds and rubbish,
leaving a clean smooth surface.

INSECTS HURTFUL TO FRUIT TREES.

Where small insects annoy any of the wall-trees, let some
means be used to destroy them before they increase and spread
themselves considerably, in which they would do great mischief
to the trees and fruit.

When once these destructive small vermin attack but one
single branch of a tree, they would, in a very short time, over-
run the whole, if not stopped, and spoil the young shoots, and
destroy the leaves; and when once the leaves of a tree are gone,
there is but little good to be expected, either in the growth of
the shoots or the fruit that year. Therefore, as soon as insects
or blights appear upon the wall-trees, it is advisable both to
prune away such part of the young shoots that are much infest-
ed therewith, and to detach the worst of the infested leaves, such
as are crumpled, shrivelled, or much curled up, clammy, &c,
then strew some tobacco dust over all the branches and leaves,
repeating it occasionally, which will contribute towards destroy-
ing and preventing the vermin from multiplying. And some-
times lime dissolved in water, and the parts watered therewith,
proves effective in some degree.

Watering, however, with common water, wall-trees, &c, thus
infested with insects, often proves beneficial, provided it is re-
peated in dry hot weather, and the water thrown against the
trees with some force, especially from a watering engine, de-
scribed below.

ENGINE FOR WATERING THE BRANCHES OF TREES.

For the purpose of watering the branches of infested wall-
trees, in dry hot weather, there is nothing so convenient as a
hand-watering engine, generally made of tin, or sometimes of
copper, of small or larger dimensions, worked by means of a
small single-handed pump, fixed therein, to discharge the water
in a stream from a pipe to turn in any direction.

By the help of this small engine, a person may stand on the
walks, and with great ease and expedition throw the water in a
strong stream against any part of the wall trees, from the bot-

May.]

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275

torn to the top of the wall, and is the readiest, most expeditious,
and effectual method of watering the branches of these trees,
for the engine will, throw the water with such considerable force
against the trees as to displace caterpillars, and other insects,
and will effectually clear the leaves and branches from dust,
cobwebs, and from any sort of filth they may have contracted
and if the waterings are often repeated, in dry weather, where
insects at any time appear, it will greatly diminish their increase,
and prevent their spreading considerably.

This engine may also be used occasionally in watering the
branches of espalier trees, and young or old standard trees,
where attacked by insects ; also occasionally in watering differ-
ent parts of the garden in a dry season.

These watering engines are made of tin and copper, and some
of wood ; and may be had, the two former, at most of the tin
and copper manufactories, but those of copper are, certainly,
the most durable ; as also those of wood, which are generally
made at the hydraulic engine makers, &c. ; but the tin ones are
considerably the cheapest in purchase ; small ones of the more
simple construction are sold at about eight or ten, to twelve or
fourteen shillings ; others on a complete plan, more convenient
and effectual, are from one to two or three guineas ; but those
of copper, for greater durability, are much dearer.

The most eligible sorts are such as have the pump and dis-
charging pipe fixed in the vessel for containing the water, of
which some are of moderate size for carrying about by the hand ;
but the larger ones are fitted upon a low, light, two or three
wheeled carriage, for the more conveniently moving to different
parts, and contains above four times the quantity of water, and
capable of discharging it in a stronger stream, to a much greater
extent : but the smallest sorts, of the most simple construc-
tion, consisting only of a small pump, and a fixed discharging
pipe, are, when used, placed either in a large garden watering
pot, filled with water, or in a pail or tub, &c, convenient for
small gardens.

WATERING NEW-PLANTED TREES.

New planted young fruit trees should now, in dry hot weather,
be well watered at the roots about once a week ; or also occa-
sionally all over the branches.

276

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[May.

VINES.

Vines now shoot vigorously, and wiUproduce, besides bear-
ing and other useful shoots, numbers that are altogether useless,
which must now be cleared away.

It is not every summer that is favourable to the ripening of
grapes ; but it is in every one's power to give them great assist-
ance, by a right ordering of the vines, both at this early time
and hereafter; and where this is properly executed, the bunches
of fruit will be forwarded accordingly in the largest growth, and
most early and perfect maturity.

To do this, the vines must now be perfectly well cleared from
all sorts of useless shoots of the year ; and at the same time, all
the fruit bearing, and other well placed useful shoots, should be
nailed up regularly, and close to the wall.

This work should be done before the shoots begin to entan-
gle, or any way interfere with each other ; for there is a great
deal of advantage attends this early dressing, both in affording
an opportunity of performing the work with more expedition
and regularity, and for the greater benefit of the trees and fruit :
observing, that all the immediate bearing shoots which now dis-
cover the advancing young bunches of fruit upon them must be
left ; and such other shoots as have strength, and are very well
situated for training in, for the purpose of bearing fruit next
year, must also be left in places where they are apparently
wanted, and can possibly be trained in. But all weak, strag-
gling shoots, such particularly as often rise immediately from
the old wood, should most generally be all cleared away, except
in casual vacancies where no better occur; and even strong
shoots that are destitute of fruit, and either appear too nume-
rous, or rise in places where they are evidently not wanted, or
are not well placed for training, should be mostly displaced, or
thinned in some regulating order; being, however, careful to
leave in every part as many of the best growing well placed
shoots, as can be commodiously trained in with some degree of
regularity.

Then let all the fruitful and other proper shoots now retained
be nailed up close to the walls in regular order; generally all at
their full length for the present, where room to extend them ;
and let every shoot be. laid in straight and clear of another, in a
regular manner, so that all the branches and fruit may equally
enjoy the advantage of the sun and free air.

After this, observe that all improper or unnecessary shoo'ts

May.]

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277

that rise in any part of the vines must be constantly rubbed off
according as they are produced, or only retain occasional ones
of proper growth, in places where particularly wanted to sup-
ply vacancies, &c, and generally detach all those small twiggy
shoots that often arise from the eyes of principal shoots of the
same year, taking them off close.

The above early summer dressing of vines in respect to
pruning, may be effected with the finger and thumb, while the
shoots are quite young and herbaceous ; as the useless shoots
may then, without a knife, be very expeditiously rubbed off close
to the mother wood.

VINEYARDS.

The vines in the vineyards should also be gone over now :
and this should be done some time between the middle and end
of the month.

All the shoots that have fruit upon them, and others that are
strong and well placed, for the service of another year, must
now be trained up close and regular to the stakes, but observing
previously to clear away all useless and unnecessary young
growths, such as all very small, or weak dangling shoots, taking
them off close ; likewise stronger shoots, barren of. fruit, and
where superfluous or too abundant, or rise in places not want-
ed, or cannot all be trained with regularity, must also be de-
tached, either on some parts wholly, or others in a thinning
regulation ; retaining, of the useful kinds, all the good shoots,
in present fruit, and of the others that are strong and well
placed, select a moderate sufficiency of the best, that in the
whole there may be a proper choice in the general winter prun-
ing for next year's bearers : then having, as above, cleared out all
the improper, let the proper shoots be trained up in a regular man-
ner to the stakes, or trellis, in each respective row of vines, so that
each may receive an equal benefit of sun and air, to promote
the growth of the fruit, and strengthen the general shoots.

The vines after this must be constantly cleared from all im-
proper shoots that are afterwards produced, that the fruit may
not be too much shaded, but enjoy the requisite influence . of
the sun to forward its growth and good maturity.

Keep the ground between the rows of vines perfectly clear
from weeds, during the summer season, by occasional hoeing,
which is essentially necessary for the advancement of the fruit ;
for by keeping the surface properly clean and smoothly even
whereby to admit or receive the influence of the sun more effec

278

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[May.

tually, to continue it dry and warm, contributes greatly in for-
warding the grapes in proper growth, to ripen sooner in greater
perfection of maturity.

STRAWBERRY PLANTS IN BLOSSOM.

The strawberry plants will be in full blossom this month ;
therefore, if the weather should prove very dry, the beds
should be often watered to encourage the fruit to set freely and
abundant.

During the time these plants are in blossom, the bed should
be well watered in dry weather about three times a week ; which,
being a very needful work, should not be omitted, otherwise
there will be but a scanty crop of strawberries, and these will be
small and not generally of a regular growth.

Strawberry beds, in which the plants have been generally
kept to distinct bunches on each main stock or head, should,
in some principal sorts, have the grossest advancing runners of
the year trimmed in close, to encourage the flowers and fruit
more effectually ; but observing in this, that when a supply of
young runner plants of the above are required for new planta-
tions, leave a proper sufliciency of the best for that occasion.
— See June.

Or any strawberries in edgings to beds or borders, &c, or
growing near walks, the advancing runners should be occasion-
ally trimmed within proper bounds.

EXAMINE NEW-GRAFTED TREES.

Examine the fruit-trees of all sorts that were grafted this
spring : when the graft and the stock are well united, there is
no further occasion for the clay.

This is generally well effected by latter end of this month,
at which time the clay may be taken away ; but let the ban-
dages remain two or three weeks longer.

Displace all shoot-buds arising from the stock below the
grafts.

-NEW-BUDDED TREES.

Look also to new-budded fruit-trees ; that is, the trees which
were budded last summer ; they will now be advancing strong-
ly in the first shoots, and should be occasionally looked over, in
order to take off all shoots that rise from the stock, below' or
above the bud-shoot of inoculation.

This should be constantly practised as often as any shoots

May.]

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279

appear : and let them be rubbed off quite close ; then the
stocks having nothing to supply but the aforesaid inoculated
bud-shoot, it will advance in stronger growth accordingly.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN.

HYACINTHS, TULIPS, &c.

Continue to defend the beds of the more curious and capital
kinds of hyacinths and tulips, now in flower, from the full sun,
heavy rains, cold nights, and all inclement weather ; and also
the choice kinds of ranunculuses and anemonies, which are now
in bloom.

If, for the defence of the choicest kinds of these flowers,
hoop arches, &c, were placed across the beds the former
months, let the mats or canvass be always ready for drawing
over the said arches, when there is occasion to shelter the
plants.

The mats, &c, should be drawn over every day, when the
sun shines, about nine or ten in the morning, and be taken off
about four or five in the afternoon. The mats must also
be drawn over the hoops to defend the flowers from heavy
showers of rain, when such at any time happen.

Where this shading and sheltering these kinds' of flowers is
regularly practised, it will preserve them a long time in their
fullest beauty, at least a fortnight or three weeks longer than
if they were to be fully exposed ; and they will also be much
finer.

Mind that the hoops which are fixed across the beds for the
support of the mats be not too low, for that would hide and
darken the flowers too much, and render the bloom less
brilliant.

The more preferable method of preserving the bloom of
these plants in the best perfection is, by having, in April, ar-
ranged on each side of the bed, some stout stakes, fixed up-
right in the ground, two feet distance from one another ; and
each stake stand three or four feet high ; to these let hoop
arches be fixed across the bed ; the coverings of mats or canvass
are to be drawn over them occasionally, and there will be
air sufficient to preserve the flowers strong, and their colours
lively.

880

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

[Mat.

Some persons who are curious in cultivating the choicest
sorts of these kinds of flowers, erect an awning, or shade, of
hoops and mats, over the beds, high enough to walk under ;
taking care that the mats come low enough on the sides, to
keep off driving rain, and the mid-day sun from darting upon
the bloom.

But this kind of high shady frame is only occasionally erect-
ed, principally over the beds of some finest capital tulips and
hyacinths ; it is soon constructed, and the expense of the ma-
terials is but trifling, and a little pains should not be spared to
preserve the beauty of the choicest kinds of these desirable
flowers.

HYACINTHS PAST FLOWERING.

When hyacinths are past flowering, and the leaves beginning
to decay, let the roots then be taken up ; but in particular the
fine double kinds.

As soon as these roots are taken up, they should be spread
to dry and harden, in a somewhat shady dry place upon a
mat, or on some clean dry ground, or the floor of an airy room.
&c, for a fortnight or three weeks, then trimmed, cleaned,
and deposited upon shelves, or in boxes till autumn, for replant-
ing.

TULIPS DONE BLOWING.

When tulips are past flowering, it would be proper that the
seed-pod be separated from the top of the flower-stalk, especi-
ally the principal capital varieties ; for the fine kinds of tulips
should not generally be permitted to ripen seeds, for these would
draw nourishment, and in some degree weaken the root.

When the leaves and stalks of tulips have done flowering,
and begin to wither and decay, the roots should be taken up,
especially those intended, and which should generally be prac-
tised every year in all the more estimable curious sorts in
particular.

Some of the early blowing kinds will probably be ready for
this by the last week in the month ; if they be, let them be taker
up in a dry day, and clean them well, and take off all the loose
outer skins. See also June, fyc.

Then spread the roots on a mat, in a dry shady place, to
harden a little ; and after this, let them be put in bags or
boxes, till the season for planting them.

May.]

THE PLEASURE

28!

BULBOUS FLOWERS IN GENERAL DONE BLOWING.

Spring crocus roots of all sorts, and snowdrops, crown im-
perials, and all other forward blowing bulbous flower-roots as
have done flowering, should also, where intended, be taken up
when their leaves decay.

This should be constantly practised to such as have stood
unremo.ved two or three years, and increased by offsets, into
large bunches, and that you desire to have the several kinds of
bulbs produce large and handsome flowers ; for when the roots
are taken up, all the small roots or offsets are to be detached
from the principal ones, and reserve only the largest roots by
themselves, to plant again in the proper places, to blow next
year ; and by the offsets you obtain a considerable increase. _

Or, however, the crocuses and snowdrops, and other similar
kinds of common bulbs, may occasionally remain unremoved two
or three years ; though the more estimable kinds of common
bulbs in general, should mostly be taken up, at the decay of
the flower-stalks and leaves (this or next month, &c), once in
two or three years, at farthest ; especially, if, by the increased
offsets, they are grown into large clusters ; as if permitted to
remain longer in that state, their flowers, though probably more
numerous, would be considerably smaller, and less beautiful in
colour and general appearance ; besides, by taking up the bulbs
once in that period of time, and detaching the offsets, an in-
crease is gained, and the main bulbs are preserved separately in
their respective proper sizes and degree of strength for full
flowering accordingly.

Though in most of the capital varieties of fine tulips, hya-
cinths, bulbous iris, jonquils, polyanthus-narcissus, and of other
similar bulbs, they should generally be taken up every year
after the flowers are decayed.— See below, next page and
June.

The roots in general, when taken up, must be properly dried
in the shade, and afterwards put up till planting time, which is
September, October, November, or any time, in open weather
from September till February.

AUTUMN FLOWERING BULBS.

The autumnal bulbs, or such as flower only in autumn, con.
tinuing in growth in the root and leaves till this season, when
generally about the latter end of this month, or in June, the
leaves decay, at which period, the roots having done growing,

2R2

THE PLEASURE

[May.

not drawing any nourishment from the ground, is the most
proper time to take up, remove, or transplant them as may be
required: and it is generally necessary that these bulbs betaken
up every two or three years at most, to separate the increased
offsets from the main bulbs ; and by these offsets you gain an
increase of roots, some of which will flower the following
autumn, and most of them the next year ; and by divesting
the main roots of the offsets, they will constantly flower much
stronger.

The colchicums and autumnal crocus will be in condition for
the above practice of removing or transplanting by the end of
the month or beginning of next ; and also the yellow autumnal
narcissus, and such other autumnal flowering bulbs, whose
leaves now decay.

They must be taken up in dry weather, and the small offsets
carefully separated from the main root ; and they may then
either be planted again immediately, or may be spread upon a
mat, out of the sun, to dry, they may then be put up till the
last week in July, or the first week in August, when they are
to be planted again, for flowering the same year, in August and
September, &c.

REASONS FOR TAKING UP BULBOUS ROOTS AFTER FLOWERING.

By this method of taking bulbous roots of any kind out of
the ground, soon after flowering, and the stalks and leaves de-
cay, either annually in the choicest kinds, or in the others once
in two or three years, it both affords the opportunity of separat-
ing the offsets for increase, and of preserving, thereby, the main
bulbs distinct, in their proper degree of full growth and strength,
for flowering in the best perfection: and by being thus taken up
and retained two, three, or four months out of the ground, the
more estimable kinds being housed, are preserved from all acci-
dents by the weather, &c, and being a kind of respite, as it
were, from action, they generally blow stronger in proportion
the year following.

Besides, it is necessary to take up all kinds of the more curi-
ous bulbous roots once a year, in order to separate the small
offsets from each of the principal roots, particularly tulips and
hyacinths ; but narcissuses, jonquils, irises, common tulips, &c,
and all other common kinds of bulbs, may occasionally remain
two, or even three years without removal. It will, however, be
proper to take up every sort once in the above time ; and there
is no time so proper as when the leaves and flower-stalks of the

Ma*.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN

283

different kinds begin to decay, for then the roots are in a state
of rest ; but if permitted to remain three weeks or a month after
that period, they would put out fresh fibres, and begin to form
the bud for the following year's bloom; and if they were then
to be taken up, it would, in some measure, check the next year's
flower ; and some sorts would scarcely flower at all, or but very
weakly, the following season.

CARNATIONS.

Carnation-plants in pots should, at this time, have all the
assistance of culture, to encourage them to shoot with vigour.

The stalks now advance apace for flowering ; — sticks should
be placed for their support, provided it was not done before.
Let the sticks be straight, and long enough, and thrust them
carefully down close to the plant ; then let the flower-stalks,
according as it advances in growth, be tied neatly to them in
two or three different parts.

Clear the plants also from decayed leaves, if there be any,
and stir the surface of the mould a little : this done, add a
sprinkling of fine fresh earth over it, bringing it close about the
plants, and immediately give the whole a moderate watering.

Observe, that, in order to have large and handsome flowers,
all buds which rise from the sides of the stalks below, should
now be taken off, leaving none but the top buds : this is the
method practised by florists.

The pots should now be placed where the mid-day sun does
not come ; and in dry weather they must be watered once in
two days.

management of tender annuals.

The cockscombs, balsams, globe amaranthus, egg-plants,
stramoniums, and other tender curious annuals, must now be
removed, once more, into another new hot-bed, the beginning
of this month.

This is principally to be understood of such of these kinds oi
plants as may be required to attain full perfection as soon as
possible, and for such as are intended to be grown to a large
size ; and in that case, they would now need the assistance of
one more hot-bed, about two feet thick.

As soon as the bed is made, set on the frame and glasses,
which will bring up the heat soon, and the bed will be ready to
receive the plants in five or six days ; observing, previously, to
lay in about three or four inches depth of earth.

284

THE PLEASURE

[May.

The plants, if not potted last montn, should now, in the
principal kinds, have that performed, before placing them in
this bed. The pots must be about the middle size, and the
plants placed in them, when the bed is just in right order to
receive them.

Having the pots and some fresh earth ready, put into each
pot about three or four inches depth of earth; then take up the
plant, each with a ball of earth about its root, and place one
plant, with its ball entire, in the middle of each pot, and fill up
the vacancy with fresh earth, within half an inch of the top of
the pot, and let them be moderately watered.

Place the pots immediately upon the hot-bed, close together,
and let the cavities between be perfectly filled up with earth,
according as the pots are placed upon the bed,

When the pots are all in, put on the glasses, observing to tilt
them up a little at the back of the frame every day, to let in
fresh air to the plants, and that the strong steam from the heat
of the bed may transpire.

The plants must be shaded occasionally from the sun for the •
first week or ten days ; let mats be spread over the glasses the
first three or four days, about eight or nine o'clock in the morn-
ing, and taken off about four or five in the afternoon ; but after
this, let the plants have more and more sun every day, till
they are able to bear it fully, without shrinking or flagging their
leaves, &c.

Be sure to admit air every day to the plants, and particularly
when there is a good heat, and when there is much steam : for
if this is not observed, the steam will destroy the leaves of the
plants, and would, in that case, make an awkward and unsight-
ly appearance.

They must be duly supplied with water, during the time they
are in this bed ; and they should have a moderate quantity
given them, at least once in two days.

Observe, as the plants advance in height near the glasses, to
raise the frame, to give. them full room to grow ; this should be
done in the manner mentioned in the last month, especially
where required to have some principal sorts grown to a tolera-
bly large growth and stature.

May.]

OE FLOWER GARDEN.

285

PRICKING OUT TENDER ANNUALS "WHICH WERE SOWN LAST
MONTH.

Where any of the above tender annual plants, such as cocks-
combs, tricolors, &c, were sown in April, they should now be
pricked out the beginning of this month.

They must be pricked out on a hot-bed, observing the me-
thod directed in the former months.

LESS TENDER OR HARDIER FLOWER PLANTS.

Plant out the less tender, or hardier annuals, into the natu-
ral ground, and some in pots ; this may be done any time after
the middle of the month, if the weather is settled in tolerably
warm, taking advantage of a moist season if rain happens,

Those which were pricked out last month on a slight hot-bed,
as there directed, will be arrived to a good size for planting out
towards the latter end of this month.

The African and French marigold, and chrysanthemum^
are of these kinds ; also the marvel of Peru, China aster, In-
dia pink, ten weeks stock, and the common kinds of balsams
the capsicums, and mignonette : likewise persicaria, and the
tree and purple amaranthuses ; scabiouses, egg-plant, love ap-
ples, and Chinese hollyhocks, &c. — See the List of Plants.

All these, and others of that tribe, may now, towards the
middle or latter end of the month, be planted out in the beds,
borders, and other parts of the Pleasure Garden, or some into
pots, and they will make an agreeable appearance in the fol-
lowing months, till October.

Generally, if possible, take opportunity of a showery or
moist time for planting them out ; otherwise, if dry weather,
an afternoon, or towards the evening, is the preferable time of
the day for transplanting them ; though, if very dry hot sunny
weather, it would be most advisable to defer the transplanting
till the weather changes ; then observing, in the work of plant-
ing, to dispose the different sorts in a varied order, in the borders
&c, that the flowers may display a proper diversity.

Then let the whole be directly watered ; and if dry weather,
repeat it moderately every evening or two, till the plants hav
struck root.

Some principal sorts should also be planted in pots, to
place occasionally for decorating any particular compartment,
generally planting but one good plant in each pot ; or some o
the ten-weeks stocks and mignonette may be planted, three os

286

THE PLEASURE

[May

four in a pot together, each sort in separate pots : ah well
watered and shaded, if dry weather.

But where those annuals of the above kinds were not prick-
ed out last month on a hot-bed, or beds of natural earth, it
may now be done the beginning of this ; or some of the strong,
est or more hardy may be planted out finally in the borders,
&c, or otherwise prick the whole first out from the seed-bed
into nursery-beds of rich earth, there to remain for a month, to
get strength, and then to be planted out for good in the bor-
ders.

The nursery beds, in which to prick these plants now from
the seed-bed, should be about three feet wide : rake the sur-
face smooth, and put in the plants about four or five inches dis-
tant each way, and water them.

Then, if dry weather, it would be a great advantage to shade
them occasionally, which might be more conveniently practised
for small quantities by placing some hoops across the beds, and
let mats be drawn over them occasionally, to shade the plants
from the mid-day sun, till they are rooted ; and the mats may
also be used in cold nights to shelter the plants.

There is a great deal of advantage in pricking out these
plants timously in this manner from the seed-bed, because they I
can be very conveniently watered and shaded from the scorch-
ing sun till they have taken good root and acquire strength ;
and can be also occasionally sheltered in cold nights till they
are strong and hardened by degrees to bear the open air fully,
night and day ; and when of advanced growth, can be readily
transplanted with balls of earth into the borders, &c.

They will have acquired a proper degree of growth and
strength for final transplanting, in about four or five weeks
after they are pricked out ; the plants must then be taken up
with small balls of earth, which will readily hang about their
roots, and be planted carefully, with the balls entire, into the
places where they are to remain.

SOWING LESS TENDER, OR HARDIER ANNUALS.

The seed of ten-weeks stocks, mignonette, China asters, and
India pink, may still be sown. You may also, where omitted
in the last two months, still sow the seeds of African and
French marigolds, balsams, chrysanthemums, and any other an-
nuals of this class ; but this should be done the first or second
week in the month.

These seeds may now be sown in a bed or border of rich

May.] or flo wek garden. 2fi7

light earth, into the natural ground ; and if often refreshed
with water in dry weather, and sheltered with mats in cold
nights, the plants will come up soon and will grow freely
though they will now succeed without any shelter. But if sown
on a slight hot-bed, it will bring the plants on forwarder for
planting out finally, a week or fortnight sooner, and will flower
sooner in proportion.

The plants from this sowing will be fit to plant out next
month, and will come into flower in July and August, and con-
tinue till the cold weather destroys them.

SOW SEEDS OF HARDY ANNUALS.

Sow the seed of hardy annual flowers in the borders ; there
are several sorts that will still succeed.

These are lupines, sweet sultan, and flos Adonis, the white
and purple candy-tuft ; Lobel's catchfly, and dwarf lychnis •
dwarf poppy and virgin stock; Venus' navel-wort, and Venus''
looking-glass; snails and caterpillars : the seeds of dwarf and
large annual sunflower, lavatera, and oriental mallow, £,ay also
be sown now ; likewise nasturtiums, and convolvulus major and
minor, the Tangier and sweet scented peas, scarlet peas, scarlet
beans, and any other of the tribe of hardy annuals.— .See the
Catalogue.

All these must be sown in small patches, &c, in the borders
and other places where you would have them flower, directed
hi the two former months; for these sorts do not succeed so
well by transplanting.

Let the patches be often sprinkled with water in dry wea-
ther, and the plants will come up strong, and produce their
flowers m June, July, August, and September. •

The climbing kinds of these plants must have sticks placed
or them to climb upon, when they begin to run or extend in
length ; such as nasturtiums, convolvulus major, scarlet peas
scarlet beans, the sweet scented and Tangier peas, &c.

May likewise sow ten-weeks stocks, and mignonette, in "
beds, borders, pots, &c, both to remain, and for transplanting.

AURICULAS AND POLYANTHUSES.

Take good care of the auricula plants in pots, when they are
past flowering, especially those which flowered upon a covered
stage, &c.

Let the pots according as the flowers fade, be immediately
removed off the stand or stage, and place them in the full air

288

THE PLEASURE

[May.

npon a clean level spot, where the plants can enjoy the morn-
ing sun only, till nine or ten o'clock ; and there let them re-
main till September.

Keep the pots and the ground where they stand perfectly
clear from weeds ; and where decayed leaves appear on the
plants, let them be immediately taken off ; and in dry weather
refresh the pots often with water.

Offsets of auriculas may now be detached and planted in a
shady border till autumn, then transplanted in pots, &c. — See
April.

Remove the boxes or tubs of seedling auriculas and poly-
anthuses to a shady place, provided it was not done before ; the
place must be open to the morning sun only.

They must be often sprinkled with water in dry weather, and
kept very free from weeds.

CARE OF SEEDLING BULBS.

The seedling tulips and narcissuses, and other seedling bulbs,
coming up this year, should be screened from the mid-day sun,
when scorching hot.

PROPAGATE DOUBLE SCARLET LYCHNIS, &c.

Now propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants, by cuttings of
the young flower-stalks.

The double scarlet lychnis, and several other such like curi-
ous plants, which rise with strong firm flower-stems, will grow
freely this way ; they will sometimes, in a forward season, be
of a proper growth for this purpose, towards the latter end of
this month, and moist weather is the best time to plant them j
and the method is this : —

Let some of the young flower-stalks be cut off close, and
divide them into proper lengths ; each length must have three
or four" joints ; and they are to be planted in a shady border of
rich light earth, about four inches asunder ; and two joints of
the cuttings are to be put into the ground, and the rest left out.
Close the earth well about them, and then let the whole have
a moderate watering : and, if covered down with hand-glasses,
it will greatly forward their rooting.

There are several other sorts of the fibrous rooted perennial
plants that may be increased by this method ; such as lychni-
dea,' double rockets, and many others.

By this method of propagation, and by bottom offsets, the
young plants retain the property of the respective parent plant,

May.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

289

in regard to double flowers, colour, &c, which is not attainable
with any certainty by seed.

DOUBLE WALL-FLOWERS.

Propagate double wall-flowers, by slips of the young shoots
of the head ; the plants raised by this method will retain the
double property and colour of the flowers, in all respects the
same as the parent plant from which they were slipped.

Choose for this method of propagation, such slips of the
young shoots of the year as are of a somewhat robust growth,
from three or four to five or six inches long ; and let them be
carefully slipped off, or occasionally cut with a knife from the
mother plant, in a moist or cloudy day ; or otherwise in the
evening or morning, especially if hot sunny weather.

Take off the leaves at the bottom of the slips rather more
than half way up, so that there may be two, three, or four inches
of a clear stalk, according to the length of the slip. Twist the
stalks a little at bottom, and then plant them.

They are to be planted in a shady border, or in pots, three,
four, or five inches asunder, and put into the earth up to the
leaves, and then give them some water.

Do not forget to refresh them often, in dry weather, with
moderate waterings, and they will soon strike root, produce
shoots at top during the summer, and form little bushy-headed
plants by the end of September, when they may be taken up,
with balls of earth about the roots, and planted in pots, in or-
der to be moved into shelter in time of severe frost in winter,
and they will all flower next spring.

The wall-flowers which were raised last year from seed will
now be in flower, and some of them will probably be double :
for it sometimes happens, when the seed has been saved from
the finest single flowers, that one plant in ten or perhaps
twenty or thirty, &c, will come double ; and at other times
not one in a hundred, and sometimes in five hundred, will prove
multiple.

Therefore where double flowers of a deep blood colour offer
among the seedling plants, now is the time to propagate that
sort by slips, as above directed.

For the greater chance of having double wall flowers from
seed, the florists are careful to save the seed, if possible, from
such single flowers, as are situated near double ones ; though
we do not pretend to say this has any particular effect ; espe-
cially, as in the full doubles the multiplicity of petals excludes

290

THE PLEASURE

[May.

all the generative parts of influence ; however, if any of those
single ones happen to have five or six petals or flower leaves,
they are more particularly preferred as the best from which
to save seed.

The beginning of this month is still a proper time to sow
wall flower seed for flowering next year.

TUBEROSES.

Plant some tuberose roots to blow in autumn.

Get some middling pots ; and fill them with light earth ;
plant one root in each pot ; then place the pots upon a hotbed,
plunging them in the earth, or tan bark, &c.

Keep the glasses over them, but raise them behind every day,
to let out the steam.

Give very little water till the roots begin to push, then let
them be moderately watered about three times a week : and
at the same time let the glasses be tilted a good height at the
back of the frame, to admit a considerable deal of free air also
to them ; for this is necessary to strengthen the flower stalks,
as they rise in height, as the stems grow three or four feet
high.

Observe when the plants have risen near the glass, to raise
the frame, as directed for the tender annuals, that they may
have room to shoot in a firm upright growth.

But where there is the conveniency of a hothouse, or stove,
these plants may be brought to greater perfection with much
less trouble.

The roots are to be planted in pots as above ; and the pots
are to be plunged to their rims in the bark bed, watering them
as above mentioned.

As these plants rise with a single stem three or four feet,
they will sometimes require support, the stalk being termi-
nated by a long spike of many filaceous white flowers of great
fragrance.

TRANSPLANTING SEEDLING, PERENNIAL, AND BIENNIAL
FLOWER PLANTS,

Transplant or prick into nursery beds some of the seedling
perennial and biennial flower plants which were sown in
March ; some sorts will be grown to the proper size to re-
move by the third or fourth week of the month.

Sometimes the wall-flowers, in particular, and stock July-
flowers, will be ready to transplant by that time ; and al30

MayJ

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

291

columbines, and sweet williams, single scarlet lychnis, rose,
campion, and catchfly, and pyramidal campanulas, or Can
terbury bells, and Greek valerian, with the tree primrose, fox-
gloves, French honeysuckles, and hollyhocks, and such other
sorts as were sown early in the spring, and are advanced two,
three, or four inches in growth.

They must all be planted now into nursery beds, where they
must remain to get strength, before they are planted out for
good.

Dig for this purpose a spot of good clean ground, and divide
it into beds, three feet and a half broad, and rake the surface
even.

Then put in the plants by line, six inches distant each way,
and each sort separate. As soon as they are planted, let
them be moderately watered to settle the earth well about their
roots.

All these are to remain in the nursery beds till September
or October, or some till the spring, then to be planted out for
good ; they will all flower next year, and make a fine appear-
ance.

SOWING BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS.

Many sorts of perennial and biennial flower seeds may yet
be sown ; but this should be done in the first or second week
in the month, and the plants will soon come up strong, and
attain a proper growth for pricking out in July, into nursery
beds to obtain strength for final transplanting in autumn, &c, and
will all produce flowers abundantly the next summer.

The sorts which still succeed are the different sorts of stock
July-flowers, wall flowers, sweet williams, and columbines,
carnations, and pinks, likewise scabiouses, Canterbury bell-
flowers, hollyhocks, and French honeysuckles and most other
sorts : choose for these seeds a compartment of mellow ground,
■where least exposed to the full sun ; dig it neatly, and form an
even surface ; and then mark it out into as many beds or parts
as there are kinds of seeds intended to be sown.

Then the seeds are to be sown thereon as equally as possi-
ble, and raked in with an even hand, that the plants may rise
regular, and of an equal thickness in every part.

Or the sowing of all these kinds of seeds may be occasionally
performed according to the following methods, by which the
seeds will be covered in equally, and the plants will rise regu-
larly.

292

THE PLEASURE

[Mat.

The ground being dug, and neatly raked, divide it into small
beds three feet wide ; and, with the back of the rake, turn the
earth to the depth of half an inch off from the surface of the
bed into the alley; sow the seeds carefully on the surface,
each sort separate ; and then, with the teeth of the rake, draw
the earth that was turned off the bed evenly over them in a
spreading manner. Then let the beds be very lightly gone
over with a rake, just to smooth the surface, and draw off any
stones.

Or they may be sown either in small narrow common drills,
or in flat shallow drills, drawn with a small hoe, held with the
edge horizontally, forming the drills the width of the hoe, and
from about a quarter or half an inch to an inch deep, according
to the size of the different seeds ; which sow regularly along
the bottom of the drills, and cover them in evenly with the earth.

CLEARING THE GENERAL PLEASURE GROUND FROM WEEDS.

In the general pleasure ground, the borders, beds, shrub-
berries, &c, should now be diligently cleared from weeds in
every part where they appear ; they are now of quick growth,
and will soon get a-head, if not disturbed in due time.

They are not only hurtful to the plants, but appear disagree-
able, especially where they are suffered to advance in any con-
siderable growth.

Therefore make it a rule to cut them of? as soon as they ap-
pear, either by hand or hoe ; where there is room for the hoe,
let that instrument be used in dry days, and then let the bor-
ders, or other parts, be neatly raked, to draw the weeds and all
other litter off, to have a clean even surface.

GRASS AND GRAVEL WALKS.

Continue to mow grass plats, lawns, walks, bowling greens,
&c, frequently, before they grow very rough : they will now
require mowing, generally about once a week or fortnight, in
the principal garden lawns, plats, and other grass compartments,
whereby to keep them in tolerably decent' order, cutting close
and even without scoring ; and they should also be occasionally
heavy rolled.

Gravel walks should also now be kept in complete good order ;
continuing them always thoroughly cleared from weeds ; and oc-
casionally swept to clear away all loose litter ; and likewise fre-
quently well rolled ; or generally not less than once or twice a
week.

May.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

298

After showers of rain, the gravel walks should, at this season,
have occasional good rollings, with the heaviest roller ; for this
will make the body of walks firm, and render the surface very-
close and smooth.

New grass lawns, walks, and other compartments may still
be made by laying grass turf; well watered, if dry weather. —
See the Spring months.

Likewise new gravel walks may be made ; and old walks turned
and new laid, as directed in March, &c.

CARE OF FLOWER BORDERS, BOX EDGINGS, &c.

The general flower borders and other similar compartments
of the pleasure ground, &c, should now be carefully continued
in the most perfect good order.

For as the plants and flowers will now be fast advancing in
their various different growths, the borders, &c, should be kept
neatly clean from weeds and all rubbish litter, and the plants
from decayed leaves ; and let any irregularity, or disorderly
growths in the plants, be properly adjusted ; also any of ad-
vanced growth, appearing in want of support, should be sticked
and neatly trained in upright regularity; and, occasionally,
light hoe and rake the borders, to give the surface a clean, fresh

J J- „ e-iVA'1-« — 1 „„A «r;il

appearance ; anu, in me wnoie, me pianis auu ixuneia nw ^..u-
show themselves to the best desirable advantage.

And where box edgings, &c, of the above borders, and other
compartments, are grown disorderly, let them now be trimmed,
or clipped neatly at top and sides, in proper regularity.

SUPPORTING FLOWER PLANTS.

Now begin to place sticks to all such flowering plants, &c,
as appear in want of support ; many sorts will need this assis-
tance in their advancing growth in the present and next month.

In proceeding to this business, should generally have the sticks
proportioned, in some degree of length, to the size and natural
height of the different plants they are to support ; and, in plac-
ing the sticks, to fix them down on that side of the plants in
which they can be least seen ; for although the intent is to keep
the plants upright and firm in their places, yet to conceal the
means, as much as possible, by which it is effected ; and similar
care should also be observed in tying up the plants to the sticks ;
and to perform it in the neatest manner ; and thus the plants
will advance in proper regularity of growth and best perfection
of flowering.

294

THE NURSERY.

[May.

Likewise climbing and trailing plants should have timely
support of sticks or stakes proportioned to their nature of
growth ; and their stems or shoots conducted thereto in a pro-
per manner.

THE NURSERY.

The great care of the nursery now is, to destroy weeds in
every part wherever they appear, to give water duly to all such
plants as require it, and occasional shading to some tender
seedlings.

The seed-beds of all young trees and shrubs should now, in
particular, be kept remarkably clear from weeds ; and this must
always be done by a very careful hand-weeding, and occasional-
ly small hoeing between such as are in rows.

WATERING SEEDLING PLANTS.

Observe at this time, if the weather should prove dry, the
seed-beds of evergreens and curious flowering shrubs and trees,
in which the young plants are coming up this year, or that have
just risen, or expected to rise soon, &c, should be often refresh-
ed with water.

In watering these beds, apply it moderately, and not too has-
tily, lest it wash away the earth, and expose the tender roots to
the sun, which would be apt to scorch them in some degree, and
stint the seedlings in their first growth.

Therefore let the water be given frequent and moderate ; or,
generally, about three gentle waterings a week, or every other
evening, will be sufficient.

SHADE SEEDLINGS.

The tenderer seedling evergreens, such as pines, cedars, cy-
press, and many other sorts, newly come up, or just rising, and
which are somewhat delicate while in their infant state, if now
occasionally shaded from the sun in the middle of hot days, it
will prove very beneficial to their growth.

WATER NEW PLANTATIONS.

The plantations of small young tender evergreens, and the
more curious sorts of flowering shrubs, &c, which were trans-

May.}

THE NURSERY.

295

planted in March, and last month, should, if the weather now
proves dry, be often watered.

This is a very needful work in dry weather, and to the more
curious and valuable sorts particularly, the waterings should
be performed moderately, at least once or twice a week, during
any very dry time in this month, till they take good root, and
show signs of a free growth.

Likewise, observe to continue some mulch on the surface of
the ground, over the roots of some of the more curious or ten-
der kinds of these shrubs which were planted this spring ; for
this will be of great service in preventing the sun from drying
the earth too fast about their young radical fibres ; and they
will not need watering in dry weather oftener than once in six
or eight days, only till they have taken good root and begin to
grow freely.

But those in pots will require to be more frequently watered
in dry weather.

PROPAGATE EVERGREENS, &c, BY LAYERS.

About the latter end of this month begin to propagate such
evergreens and other shrubs by layers of the young shoots of
the same year, which do not succeed well by layers of the older
wood.

This method of laying is now principally to be understood of
such kinds as do not put out roots freely from any but the
young shoots of the same summer's growth ; it, however, may
also be practised occasionally on any other evergreen kinds ;
and in some forward shooting sorts the shoots will probably be
advanced to a proper growth for that purpose by the latter end
of this month, though generally they will be of a more eligible
growth in June, &c.

However, at the proper time, when the young shoots are
from six or eight to ten or twelve inches long, let some of the
pliable branches, that afford the strongest and best young
shoots, be brought down gently to the ground, and there fas-
tened securely with strong hooked pegs ; then let the young
shoots thereon be laid into the earth, two or three inches deep,
leaving about two or three inches of the top of each shoot out
of the ground.

As soon as they are laid, give a moderate watering to settle
the earth properly about them; then lay a little mulch, or some
long litter thinly on the surface.

After this, let the earth be very moderately watered in dry

236

THE NURSERY.

[May.

weather, every five or six days ; for a moderate degree of mois-
ture will promote the emission of roots, and encourage their
growth, according as they issue from the layers.

Though this method of laying in the young wood is more
generally adopted, principally for such evergreen and other
shrubs as do not readily put forth roots from the elder shoots,
yet it need not be confined to any particular sorts ; for there
are many kinds that may be propagated by the same practice,
and the trial may be made on any such sorts as you desire to
increase.

The proper time to perform this work is from about the latter
end of May, or beginning or middle of June, to the end of July
according as the shoots of the different sorts of shrubs arrive to
a proper growth for laying ; and many of them will be well
rooted, proper to be separated from the mother plant, by the
oeginning of the following October.

NEW-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES.

Look over the new-grafted trees about the last week in this
month ; and at that time, if the grafts have begun to shoot
freely, the clay may be taken off, for there will be no more
occasion for it ; and at the same time let the bandages be
loosened.

Let no shoots remain that rise from the stocks below the
grafts ; but as soon as they appear, let them be immediately
rubbed off, that the grafts may have the full nourishment, and
more effectually shoot in a strong free-growth.

Examine the trees which were budded last summer.: all the
shoots from the stock must be constantly taken off as they are
produced, for these would draw the nourishment from the
young shoots now advancing from the buds of inoculation.

All suckers from the roots both of young grafted and budded
trees, should also be rooted out.

DESTROYING WEEDS BETWEEN THE ROWS OF TREES AND IN

SEEDBEDS, &c

The ground between the rows of all kinds of young trees and
shrubs should now, in general, be kept extremely clear from
weeds.

These now rise abundantly and very fast in every part ; but
whenever they appear between the rows of young trees and
shrubs, there is nothing easier than destroying them at a great
rate, by applying a sharp hoe to them in dry days.

May.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

297

Likewise, all seed-beds of young trees and shrubs should be
very carefully kept clean from advancing weeds, both by occa-
sional small hoeing where the plants grow in rows, and by
hand-weeding where in close growth, &c, and in all of which,
should give particular attention to eradicate the weeds before
hey overrun the young plants.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

BRINGING OUT THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Towards the middle and latter end of this month, if mode-
rately settled warm weather, may begin to remove many of the
more hardy kinds of green-house plants into the open air.

The myrtles, oleanders, geraniums, and amomum Plinii, may
be safely ventured abroad at that time ; and also the tree-worm-
wood, Indian bay, olives, and the large magnolia ; candy-tuft-
tree, shrubby-aster, jasmines, cistuses, and double Indian nas-
turtiums ; and many other of the like hardier plants.

The orange, lemon, and citron trees, and all the other ten-
derer kind of green-house plants, should also be brought out
now, towards the latter end of the month, if fine settled wea-
ther ; but if cold unsettled weather prevail, let them remain till
the beginning of June.

Generally, when the plants are first brought out of the green-
house, it would be advisable to place them in a warm situation,
where the wind can have but little power ; and after about ten
or twelve days, they will be somewhat hardened to the open air,
and may then be removed to the places where they are to re-
main for the summer.

Let every plant, as soon as brought out for the summer sea-
son, be cleared from decayed weeds and dead wood : and let
the whole be perfectly well cleaned from any kind of filth tha
may appear on the leaves, branches, or stems, and water their
heads all over, as observed below.

Likewise, if not done a month or two ago, let the earth in
the tops of all the pots be stirred to some little depth ; take out
the loosened earth, and fill up the pots, &c, with fresh mould :
this done, let the whole be moderately watered;' and at the
same time, let some water be given all over the heads of the
n 2

298

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[Mav.

plants : for this will cleanse the leaves and branches thoroughly
from dust, and will greatly refresh the whole plant, be of great
advantage, and make them assume a lively appearance.

ALOES, SUCCULENT PLANTS, &c.

The American aloes, sedums, Indian figs, and other hardy
kinds of succulent plants of the green-house, may also be brought
forth the end of this month, if the weather is settled in warm
and dry.

Where the leaves of any of these plants are decayed, or de-
caying, let them, as soon as they appear, be cut off close with
a sharp knife.

SHIFTING INTO LARGER POTS.

Any of the green-house plants that want larger pots may still
be shifted into them the beginning or any time this month ; but
the sooner the better.

Having the pots or tubs, and some fresh compost ready, let
the plants be brought out and shifted, according to the follow-
ing method : ■ — -

Let each plant, intended for shifting, be taken out of its pre-
sent pot, or tub, with the ball of earth entire ; then pare off all
the dry matted roots round the outside and bottom of the ball ;
and also let some of the old earth be pulled away, without loos-
ening the ball, and immediately set the plant in the new pot,
and fill it up with the fresh compost, and give it some water.

When the plants are set out for the summer season, let those
which are shifted be placed in a shady situation, there to re-
main for a month or six weeks, and then may be removed to the
places allotted for them during the summer.

The oranges, lemons, and citron trees which are not shifted
this season, or that do not require shifting should now be
treated in the following manner, provided it was not done in
April

Loosen the earth on the top of the tubs or pots, quite to the
uppermost roots, and also a little way down round the sides.
This done, take out all the loosened soil, and immediately fill
up the tubs and pots with some good fresh earth ; then give a
moderate watering, and the work is finished.

Such a dressing as this will now be a very great advantage
to, these kinds of plants ; it will not only promote a healthful
fine green colour of the leaves, but will also add new strength
and vigour to the general growth of the plants, and cause them

May.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

239

to flower and fruit strong and abundantly, and to produce strong
and handsome shoots.

ADMITTING FRESH AIR.

Observe that during the time the plants remain in the green-
house this month to admit a considerable share of fresh air to
them every day, in order thereby to harden them to it by de-
grees, so that they may be able to bear the full air effectually
when brought out.

Let all the windows and doors be open every mild day, to
their full extent ; and towards the middle of the month let them
continue open also a-nights; that is, when the air is perfectly
still and warm ; but if a cold unfavourable season, admit the
night air with precautionary moderation accordingly, till more
settled warm weather.

WATERING THE PLANTS.

Remember to supply every plant, according to its kind, with
a proper share of water.

The oranges, lemons, and myrtles, and all the woody plants,
will now require that article pretty often. The large pots or
tubs will, in warm weather; require it about twice a week, and
the small pots will need a moderate watering every two days.

Some of the succulent plants require but very little water ;
but it will be proper to give the whole a moderate refreshment
now and then.

PROFAGATING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS BY LAYERS.

Many kinds of green-house plants may be propagated by
layers ; and this is still a proper time to lay them.

Myrtles will succeed very well this way, and also jasmines,
pomegranates, oleanders, and many others of the shrubby kinds.

Choose for this purpose some of the pliable young branches,
or strongest shoots thereof, properly situated for laying ; let
these be brought down gently, and making an opening in the
earth of the pots, &c, either their own respective pots, or, where
not conveniently practicable in these, in others placed near
enough for that purpose, and in either of which laying the pro i
per shoots in the earth, securing them down with hooked pegs,
and cover the laid parts about three inches thick with earth,
leaving two, three, or four inches of the top out in an upright-
ish position.

Then lay a little mulch or some mowings of short grass, or

300

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[May

the like, on the surface, to preserve the moisture ; and do not
forget to refresh them often with gentle waterings.

Some of the plants thus laid will be effectually rooted the
same summer, but will be mostly well rooted by Michaelmas
for transplanting ; such as are not, must be permitted to remain
till near that time twelvemonth.

But if any of the pots containing these plants were plunged
jn a hotbed, the layers would readily put out roots the same
season, and be fit to take off the following autumn.

The general method of propagating myrtles is by cuttings of
the small young shoots of the year ; for which see the work of
June and July.

PROPAGATING BY CUTTINGS.

Many sorts of green-house exotics may still be propagated by
cuttings of the young shoots of last year, such as geraniums,
myrtles, &c, planting them in pots ; and if plunged in a hotbed
or bark-bed in the hot-house, it will strike them in a short time,
though the geraniums will strike without that assistance either
in the pots or borders, &c, at this season.

But in myrtles, &c, and any hard woods that root reluctantly
by cuttings, may, when plunged in the bark-bed as above, be
covered down close with a hand-glass, which will greatly for-
ward the emission of roots.

OF STOCKS WHEREON TO BUD AND INARCH ORANGES, &c.

If the young orange stalks, which are raised from kernels,
sown in March, are come up about three or four inches high, it
will be proper to transplant them.

They should be planted singly, in small pots, and then
plunged in a fresh hotbed, either of dung or tan bark, under a
frame and glasses.

Let them be watered as soon as planted, and let them be
shaded from the sun in the middle of the day.

Give them also fresh air, by raising the glasses every day.

Keep up the warmth of the bed by moderate linings, if dung
notbeds ; but if bark-beds, no lining will be required ; and give
frequent moderate waterings.

According as the plants rise in height near the glasses, the
frame must be raised ; and provided there be a moderate warmth
continued in the beds, and the earth in the pots kept moist, the
plants will, in three months, be advanced afoot and a half high.

Inarching may still be performed on orange and lemon trees,

May.]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

301^

where required ; and it may be done any time in the month,
observing as directed in April and March.

PRUNING IRREGULAR HEADS.

Where any myrtles, geraniums, lemons, oranges, or any
other of the woody green-house plants, have shabby, straggling
naked heads, or of very irregular growth, may, in the beginning
of this month, have a regulating pruning, either in the general
branches of some, cutting them down a little more or less, to
promote a production of lateral shoots in summer, to renew the
nead in a more full regular order ; or, in others, to prune or re-
duce casual disorderly growths, or any straggling or rambling
irregularities, as it shall seem necessary.

Or where any of the above kinds have dropped their leaves,
as sometimes occurs by over watering in winter, &c, or by
the effects of cold in that season, it would be proper to cut
them down a little, as above, in some regular order, which will
make them push more freely in a production of young shoots
and new leaves.

Likewise, if any assume a weak, sickly-like habit, or unpros-
perous growth, prune the tops down a little, and either shift
them into new pots and some fresh earth, or loosen the earth
in their present pots ; add some fresh mould at top and give
water.

Or any myrtles, &c, having decayed heads, or having drop-
ped their leaves, may be turned out of the pots, and planted in
the full ground till September, to recover.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

Fires should be mostly discontinued, except very cold unfa-
vourable weather happen, when it may be occasionally neces-
sary to make a moderate fire in the evening ; but still continue
a constant bark-bed heat, supported in a proper degree agree-
ably to the intimation of last month ; and the other principal
care of the hot-house now is to keep the plants clean, and to
supply them duly with the two necessary articles of water and
fresh air.

,302

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[May.

PINK APPLES.

The pine-apple plants in general will now require a mode -
rate refreshment of water every four or five days ; and either in
a morning from eight to nine or ten o'clock, or about three or
four in the afternoon, are the best times of the day to perform
the watering at this season.

In watering these plants, take particular care not to apply it
too hastily, nor to give them too great quantities at any one
time ; for that would not only damp the heart of the bark, but
would also loosen the plants in their pots.

Fresh air is the next very needful article ; and the plants
should now be allowed a considerable share of It every warm
sunny day.

Slide some of the glasses open a little way, every hot day,
about nine o'clock ; and as the heat of the day increases, con-
tinue to open them somewhat wider, that a proportionable
share of fresh air may be admitted ; and shut the glasses again
in the same order, about three, four, or five o'clock, according
to the temperature of the external air and state of the weather.

Where the young pine-plants, that is to say, the crowns and
suckers of last year, were not shifted into larger pots in April,
it should now be done the beginning of this month.

The plants must be turned out of the small pots carefully,
with the ball of earth entire, and having placed two or three in-
ches depth of fresh mould in the larger pots, plant them there-
in, one in each pot ; fill it round the ball with more fresh com-
post, and give directly a little water ; but in shifting these plants,
observe if any of them appear of a sickly unprosperous state, let
such be entirely cleared from the earth about their roots, and
pull off some of the lower leaves ; then trim the fibres quite
close, pare the bottom of the main root, and let the whole plant
be washed ; which done, plant it into entire new earth.

The plants being all shifted, let them be immediately plunged
into the bark-bed as before ; but before you plunge them, the
bark-bed must first be stirred up to the bottom, adding, at the
same time, if not done in the two last months, about one third,
but not less than one fourth, part of new tan, mixing both very
well together, and then immediately plunge the pots to their
rims.

These young plants must also be duly refreshed with gentle
waterings ; and let them have fresh air every warm day.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

308

GENERAL CARE OF ALL EXOTICS IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

Continue also the care of the general plants in the hot-house
department : supply them duly with proper waterings ; and if
any want shifting into larger pots/ let it be done now as soon as
possible, keeping the whole clear from decayed leaves, &c, and
if any casual irregularities occur in the shoots or branches, prune
or regulate them, as may be required, and cut away any decay-
ed parts ; observing the same general directions as in the two
or three last months.

PROPAGATING THE PLANTS.

You may still propagate by cuttings, suckers, seeds, &c, such
plants as you would increase, planting or sowing them in pots,
and plunge them in the bark-bed.

Likewise cuttings of green-house exotics, or of any other
curious plants, being planted in pots, and plunged in the bark-
bed in this department, it will soon strike them.

JUNE.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
MELONS.

The melon-plants, which are in frames, should still be moderate-
ly shaded in the middle of the day ; that is, when the sun shines
vehemently.

This should now be particularly practised where the plants
do not stand the sun well, but shrink or flag their leaves con-
siderably ; or also where the plants are situated very near the
glasses; as the full noon sun would be apt to scorch the leaves,
and, in some degree, shrink and exhaust the juices of the vine,
or runners and roots ; whereby the advancing young fruit would
be greatly checked, and take an irregular growth, and become
stunted and ill-shaped.

Therefore, let some thin slight shading of mats, &c, be spread
over the glasses every day, when the sun shines fiercely, but
this need not be done before about nine, ten, or eleven o'clock,

304

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[June.

according to the heat of the sun, and the mats may be taken off
again about two or three.

In doing this work, observe to lay only the thickness of one
single mat over the lights, or a thin shade of strawy litter, &c,
for the plants must not be darkened by too full a shade ; but a
slight shade in hot sunny days will be of great service both to
the plants and fruit.

Let these plants have also a great share of fresh air every
day, by raising or tilting the upper end of the lights, at the back
of the frame, two or three inches.

Moderate refreshments of water, at times, will also be very
serviceable to these plants now, but in particular to such as are
growing in beds where there is but a shallow depth of earth, or
that the mould is of a lightish temperature.

In that case the plants will, in hot weather, require to be
moderately watered once or twice a week ; and, in doing this,
take care to give but very little water near the main stem or
head of the plants.

But in beds where there is twelve inches' depth of good mel-
low loamy compost, or other good, temperate, fertile earth, the
melon plants will require but moderate supplies of water, once
in a week or fortnight, as you shall see occasion ; keeping the
earth but very moderately moist, especially while the plants are
about setting the general crop of fruit ; as too much humidity
would prevent its setting, make them turn yellow, and go off ;
but when a sufficient supply is set, and advanced a little in
growth, may water more freely ; never, however, considerably,
as much moisture proves also hurtful to the roots and main
stem of these plants, being apt to make them rot and decay.

Continue to cover the glasses every night with mats, till
about the middle of the month.

BELL-GLASS MELONS.

The melon-plants which are growing under bell or hand-
glasses should now have full liberty to run out.

Let each glass be raised and supported upon three props,
about two or three inches high, and lay the vines or runners
out carefully, and in a regular manner.

Continue to cover them every night with mats, till about the
middle of this month ; and then, if warm settled weather, the
covering may be entirely laid aside, except the weather should
prove very wet ; in which case the coverings may be used oc-
casionally.

June.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

305

There is nothing more prejudicial to these plants than too
much wet, for this would not only chill the young fruit, and
prevent its setting and swelling, but would also perish many of
the roots of the plants.

Therefore, when the weather at any time happens to De very
rainy, it would be proper to defend these plants as much as pos-
sible from it ; and this must be done by still continuing the
glasses, and applying a covering of good thick mats, or canvass
supported upon hoop arches, fixed across the bed.

OILED-PAPER FRAMES FOR MELONS.

Where it is intended to cover any of the hand-glass melon
ridges with oiled-paper frames, it should be done in the first or
second week of this month ; the melon-plants designed for this
purpose being generally first ridged out under hand or bell-
glasses ; and when they have advanced in growth, so as the
runners require training out, the glasses are then removed, and
the paper frames placed over the bed.

These kinds of frames will be of great protection to the plants
and young fruit, if cold and wet weather should happen about
the time the fruit is setting; and they will also screen the
plants from the too great heat of the sun.

These said frames should always be placed upon the ridges,
as soon as the plants begin to advance from under the hand or
bell-glasses ; the glasses must be first taken away before the
frame is placed on the bed, as before observed.

By this method a good crop of melons may be always obtain-
ed, provided the frames be properly constructed, and the paper
securely pasted on, and well oiled with linseed oil.

Such persons as are not provided with bell or hand-glasses,
may, with the assistance of these frames only, raise good melons,
provided the plants be first raised by sowing the seed in a hot-
bed, under a frame and glasses, in March or April, as there
directed, and planted out in a new hotbed the beginning of
May, and the aforesaid papered frames immediately placed
over the bed as soon as the plants are planted therein, and be
covered with mats every night till the middle or latter end of
this month.

However, those who have the convenience of hand-glasses
should always place these over the plants when first ridged out,
and to remain till about the beginning or middle of this month,
when the plants will have filled the glasses ; they should then
be entirely taken away, and the papered frames put on.

306 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. lJuNE.

These frames are made of thin slips of wood, and are con-
structed in the manner and form of the ridge or roof of a house,
or areh-ways; they should be made firm but light.

Each frame should be ten or twelve feet long, and three to
four feet and a half wide at bottom ; narrowing gradually on
both sides to a sharp ridge at top, or formed in a rounding arched
manner ; making the whole two feet and a half, or a yard high.
In performing it, a bottom frame is constructed with two inches
and a half wide slips of deal, framing it of the above length and
width ; and then have either straight inch and half wide raf-
ters carried from both sides a foot asunder, fixed at top to a
longitudinal middle ridge rail, or have arch-form ribs or rafters
placed in the same order ; and upon these the paper is to be
pasted, first drawing packthread both ways, as directed below,
for the better support of the paper.

On one side of the frame there should be one or two pannels,
made to open on hinges ; and each of these pannels must be
■ eighteen inches or two feet wide, making either only a widest
one in the middle ; or, if two, make them within two feet of
each end of the frame.

These pannels are convenient to be opened occasionally, to
examine the plants and fruit, and to do the necessary work
about them ; which is better than to take the frames off upon
every occasion.

The frame being made according to the above dimensions,
get some paper to paste upon it. The best sort for this pur-
pose is the large demy printing paper, or the largest sized thick
writing paper ; and two quires of such paper will cover at least
one of the above frames.

But before the paper is pasted on, there should be some
small twine or packthread, drawn at equal distances, along the
frame, cross-ways the ribs or slips of wood, drawing it firmly
round each of them, and then draw some more contrary ways
across that; this will support the paper more securely both
against the power of wind and rain.

Then let the paper be neatly pasted upon the frame ; and
when it is perfectly dry, then oil it in the following manner : —
get some linseed oil, and a light soft pliable brush, such as pain-
ters use; dip the brush in the oil, and brush the paper all over
lightly with it. The oil will render the paper more transparent,
and make it proof against rain.

These frames should always be made, that is, papered, some
time before they are to be used ; for the oil should be perfectly

1

June.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

307

well dried in the paper before the frames are placed out upon
the ridges.

FILLING UP THE SPACES BETWEEN THE MELON RIDGES.

Where hand-glass melon ridges, made mostly above ground,
are in two or more ranges parallel, at some distances, it would
be of good advantage to fill up the spaces between, with any
moderately warm dung below, and earth above : or the same may
be applied as a lining to a single ridge, if thought expedient :
it, in the whole, would forward and improve the plants, and pro-
mote fruitfulness.

But this, if not done before, and where intended, and con-
veniently practicable, having sufficiency of proper dung, it would
be advisable to adopt the application as above, as soon in the
beginning of this month as possible ; and for which occasion a
supply of any middling fresh and older mulchy dung together
would be eligible, applying it firmly as high as the dung of the
beds, just to throw in a gentle bottom heat, and form a larger
scope above, covering it at top with a stratum of earth, for the
additional extension of the roots and runners of the plants ;
which, by these assistances, would be much forwarded and
strengthened in their growth, and would greatly encourage the
setting and free swelling growth of the young fruit.

Take good care of the cucumber plants in frames ; they must
be well supplied with fresh air and water.

These plants in hot weather will require to be watered every
two or three days ; and morning and afternoon, or, towards the
evening, are the best times of the day, at this season, for water-
ing these plants.

Let the plants have air freely every day, by raising the upper
ends of the lights or glasses two or three inches upon props ; but
it will be advisable to shut the lights down of nights the great-
est part of this month.

And in hot sun-shiny days it is advisable to shade the plants
with garden mats, or some loose straw litter, spread thinly over
the glasses, during the hottest time of the day.

About the middle, or towards the latter end of this month,
you may either raise the frame high enough to let the plants
run out from under it, if it should seem necessary ; training
the extended runners upon the top of the linings or retain them
wholly within the frame, especially if unfavourable weather.

CUCUMBERS IN FRAMES.

808

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Junk.

CUCUMBERS UNDER BELL-GLASSES, &0.

The cucumber plants which are under hand or bell-glasses
must now be suffered to run freely from under them.

Each glass should be raised upon three or four props, and the
vines and runners of the plants must be trained out with care
and regularity

Let these plants be also duly assisted, in dry weather, with
water ; they will require it moderately about three times a
week.

PICKLING CUCUMBERS.

The cucumber plants which were sown the latter end of last
month, in the natural ground, to produce picklers, &c, should
now be thinned. This should always be done when the rough
leaf begins to advance in the heart of the plants.

In doing this work observe to leave in each hole but three or
four at most of the best strongest plants, though three would
be the most only eligibly sufficient. Let the rest be drawn out
with care, and clear away all weeds.

Then earth up the stems of the remaining plants, within a
little of the seed leaves, pressing them gently asunder at regular
distances from one another, and immediately give each hole a
light watering to settle the earth ; the plants after this will get
strength, and grow freely.

Let them be often refreshed with water in dry weather ; in
which they will need a little every day.

SOWING AND PLANTING PICKLING CUCUMBERS.

Cucumber seed may still be sown where required ; and the
first week in the month is not too late to sow a full crop of pick-
lers. If you put the seed into the ground any time between
the first and tenth day of the month, it will succeed ; but where
a main crop is depending, it is advisable to sow the seed early
in the beginning of the month.

The plants raised from these sowings will come into bearing
about the beginning or middle of August, and they will yield
fruit plentifully all the remaining part of that month, and great
part of September.

Having intimated last month, in regard to forwarding a crop
of pickling cucumbers, that it would be advisable to raise a
quantity of plants in a slight hotbed, sowing the seed about the
middle, or third or fourth week in that month, or very early in

June.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

309

this ; and where that was practised, they will now, those sowed
in May particularly, be of proper advance the beginning of this
month, for final transplanting, which should generally be per-
formed when they are but a few days old, or a week or fort-
night's growth at most ; or when beginning to push their first
central rough leaves. — See May, for the method of planting.

CELERY.

Transplant celery into trenches to remain to blanch.

That which was sown early will be grown to a proper size
for this purpose by the first or second week of this month when
it should be planted ; and some of the second sowing should be
planted out towards the middle or latter end of the month for
a general crop.

Choose for these plants a piece of rich ground in an open
situation ; mark out the trenches by line fifteen or sixteen inches
wide ; and allow the space of four feet between trench and
trench, which will be sufficient for the early plantation.

Dig each trench neatly, about six or eight inches, or only a
moderate spade deep, laying the earth that comes out equally on
each side, in a level order, in the intervening spaces ; then dig
the bottom level: or first, if thought necessary, lay the thick-
ness of four or five inches of very rotten dung along in the bot-
tom of each trench, and let the bottom be neatly dug, burying
the dung equally a moderate depth ; then put in the1 plants.

Plant them in one single row, just along the middle of each
trench, allowing the distance of five or six inches between plant
and plant in the row ; as soon as they are planted give them
some water, and repeat it occasionally till they have taken root.

ENDIVE.

Transplant endive for blanching ; some of the first sown
plants of May will be ready for this by the middle and towards
the latter end of the month.

An open spot of good ground must be chosen for these plants ;
it't it be neatly dug one spade deep, and rake the surface smooth.

Then put in the plants by line, about a foot asunder every
way, and let them have some water as soon as they are plant-
ed.

But there should not be any considerable quantity of this
early sown endive planted out : that is, not to deceive yourself
in planting a full supply for a continuing main crop ; for the
plants, if they were sown in May, or before, will most of them

310

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[June.

be apt to run to seed before they arrive to any tolerable state
of maturity.

Sow endive-seed now for a first principal crop, and to suc-
ceed those which were sown in the former month.

The best endive to sow for a full crop is the green curled
sort : this sort is not only the best for general use in its thick,
close, stocky growth, but the hardiest ; for it will endure wet
and cold in winter better than any other kind. But you may
likewise sow, as a variety for salads, &c, some of the white
curled sort.

Likewise sow some broad-leaved Batavian endive ; this is
the best sort for strewing, &c; it grows very large, in a some-
what upright growth, and, if tied up, will cabbage well, and be
very white, and eats also well in a salad ; but this sort is not
so hardy, for it soon rots in a wet season, the latter end of au-
tumn and beginning of winter, and a moderate frost will kill the
plants.

Let all these sorts of endive-seed be sown in an open spot,
not too thick, and rake it in equally. It will be proper to sow
some of this seed at two different times this month, the begin-
ning and middle or towards the latter end, which is the only
way to have a regular supply of good plants.

But for the main autumn and winter crop, generally sow
about the second and in the third or fourth week in the
month ; for that which is sown earlier is very apt to run up
for seed early in autumn, and before the plants arrive at full
growth.

LETTUCES.

The lettuce plants which were sown in April and May should
now be transplanted into an open spot of good ground.

Let this be done in moist weather, for these plants will not
succeed well if planted out in a dry time ; but where there is
necessity of planting them out, in dry weather, let the following
method be practised : —

Draw, with a small hoe, some small shallow drills, about a
foot asunder, and then plant one row of lettuces in each drill,
setting the plants also a foot from one another, and give them
some water.

By placing these plants in drills, they can be more con-
veniently watered, in the most effectual manner, than if plant-
ed on a level ground, for the moisture will be much longer re.

June.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

311

tained • this is therefore the best method of planting them at
this season.

Thin, and clear from weeds such young lettuces as are to
remain where sown ; leaving the plants about a foot asunder ;
but those among other crops, as onions, &c, thinned doubly
and trebly at that distance.

Sow lettuce-seed to raise some plants to supply the table in
July, August, and September.

The best kinds to sow now are the Cos, Cilicia, and impe-
rial lettuce, the brown Dutch, and great white Dutch cabbage
lettuce.

But it will be advisable to sow some seed of each of these
sorts, or such of them, or any others that are approved of, and
there will be a greater chance of having a constant supply of
good plants in variety, and regular succession.

It will be necessary to sow some of these seeds twice this
month, that is, a moderate crop in the first or second week, and
a similar sowing in a fortnight after.

RADISHES,

Sow a succession of salmon and short-top radish the begin-
ning of the month, and more about once a fortnight, to obtain
a regular succession in young growth, all this and next month,
if a supply of young ones are required during that period ; ob-
serve as in the last month, &c.

Likewise may be sown now for succession, some of the small
white turnip radish, in an open situation; and towards the mid-
dle or latter end of the month you may sow a moderate portion
of the large black or Spanish turnip-rooted radish, to draw in
August and September.

SMALL SALADING.

Sow cresses and mustard, and other small salad seed, at least
once every week or fortnight.

These seeds must now be sown in a shady border, or other-
wise shaded with mats in hot sunny days ; and the places where
they are sown should be often refreshed in dry weather with
water ; and this should be practised both before and after the
plants begin to appear. See July and August.

812

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[June.

PRICKING OUT CAULIFLOWERS.

The cauliflower plants, which were sown in May for the Mi-
chaelmas crop, should, about the third week in this month, be
pricked out in a nursery-bed of rich earth.

Prepare for them a bed three feet and a half wide in an open
situation, then put in the plants about three inches asunder,
and give them a little water to settle the earth well about theit
roots.

It would be of good advantage to shade them from the hot
sun occasionally in the heat of the day, till they have taken good
root ; and they must also be occasionally watered, if the weather
should prove dry.

The plants are to remain in this bed a month or five weeks,
to get strength, and then to be planted out for good in July, in
the places where they are to remain to produce their heads in
October and November, &c. — See July.

CARE OF EARLY CAULIFLOWERS NOW ARRIVING AT PER-
FECTION.

Continue to look over the plantations of early cauliflowers
now and then, in order to break down some of the large leaves
over the young heads, according as they appear in some advan-
ced growth. i

Those plants which are still advancing in growth, or part
coming into flower, should, in very dry weather, be well
watered, which will keep the plant advancing in an enlarging
state of growth, and they will produce large flower-heads ac-
cordingly.

If they have one or two hearty waterings, that is, about half
a watering-pot to each plant, gradually, so as to moisten the
earth as far as their roots extend, they will want no more.

TO SAVE CAULIFLOWER SEED.

To save cauliflower seed, should now mark some of the
best earliest plants arrived to full perfection, with the largest,
white, and closest flower-heads, which must not be gathered,
and the plants left in the same place ; they will shoot up into
seed-stalks in July, and early in August, and ripen seed in Sep-
tember.

June.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

313

TURNIPS.

» Now sow a full crop of turnips for autumn use.

The seed may be sown any time in this month ; hut some
time between the tenth and twenty-fifth of the month is the best
time to sow the principal autumn crop.

However, let the seed be sown, if possible, in a dripping
time, at least, when there is a prospect of rain falling soon, or
immediately after sow in drills twelve or fifteen inches apart.
Take good care to sow this seed equally, and moderately thin,
tread it down evenly, and rake it in immediately.

Hoe the turnips which were sown in May, and thin the
plants in a regular manner.

This work should always be begun when the plants have got
rough leaves, a little more than an inch broad ; for then the
work can be performed with expedition and regularity, with
greater advantage to the growth of the plants.

Let the hoeing or thinning be done with some regularity
leaving the plants at least eiffht or ten inches distant from one
another.

CARROTS AND PARSNEPS.

The crops of carrots and parsneps now demand particular
care.

They must be cleared thoroughly from weeds ; and let the
plants, where they stand too thick, be hoed or thinned out to
proper distances in due time ; for it is a great advantage to
these plants to allow them timely room to grow.

Let them be thinned regularly, allowing six or eight inches
distance from plant to plant.

But in thinning the carrots, it will be proper to observe the
same rule as directed in May ; that is, let those crops which are
to stand to take their full growth, be allowed the same distance
above mentioned ; but where the carrots are intended to be
drawn while young, thin them only about four or five inches
distance from one another at present; and when arrived tc
about half an inch size, may thin them by degrees for use to
the above distance.

RED BEET.

The crop of red beet should be thinned and cleared from
weeds, that the roots may have sufficient room to advance re.
gularly in their proper swelling growth.

o

314

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[J USE.

The seeds of these plants being sometimes sown in drills, or
rows, ten inches or a foot asunder ; and where that method was
practised, you can now more readily clear out the weeds and
thin the plants ; observing to thin them to ten or twelve inches
distance in the rows, so that they may stand that distance every
way from one another ; also, where the seed was sown broad-
cast, so as the nlants stand promiscuously, they must likewise
be cut out to the above distance, and the roots will grow to a
large size accordingly.

WHITE AND GREEN BEET.

White and green beet are cultivated only for their leaves,
which are used in soups, and occasionally to boil and use in the
manner of spinach, &c, as is likewise the mangel wurzel beet ;
also, sometimes, when the leaves of the large white beet are
grown to full size, they are stripped to the mid rib, which part
being thick and fleshy is peeled and stewed, and eaten like as-
paragus.

These plants must also be allowed good room to grow ; for
their leaves spread a great way ; let them therefore be thinned
to at least six or eight inches, or the large white sort the same
distance advised for the red beet.

ONIONS.

Clean the crops of onions, and where the plants stand too
close, let them now be properly thinned the beginning of this
month. ,

This may be performed either by small hoeing or hand ; but
the former is the most expeditious for large crops, and by the
hoe stirring and loosening the earth, proves very beneficial to
the growth of the plants. However, by either method be care-
ful to have it done in proper time ; and let the plants be thin-
ned with proper regularity, leaving the most promising plants
for the continuing crop, at least three inches asunder, or four
or five inches in those designed for the full crop of larger bri-
bers : and let all weeds be effectually eradicated.

But if any secondary crops are intended to be culled out
gradually for use while young, they need not be thinned but
moderately, or in some only just thinning them a little by hand
where they grow very thick, or in clusters ; and afterwards in
drawing them occasionally for use, thin them regularly, leaving
a sufficiency of the best plants to stand to full bulb.

JtJufE.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

315

LEEKS.

Now transplant leeks ; the plants will be grown to a proper
size for this purpose by the third or fourth week in the month.

Observe, for this purpose, to draw a quantity of good plants
from the seed-bed, trim the fibres of their roots a little, and the
straggling tops of the leaves, then planted in an open spot of
ground, in rows eight or nine inches asunder, and about six in-
ches from one another in the row, inserting most of the shank
or neck part into the ground.

BROCCOLI.

Prick out from the seed-bed the young broccoli plants which
were sown in April or May.

Dig for them a bed or two of good mellow ground, and rake
the surface even ; then put in the plants three or four inches
asunder every way. Water them immediately, and repeat it
occasionally in dry weather.

Let them remain in this bed about a month, or five or six
weeks, and then plant them out for good. — See July.

Sow more broccoli seed. This sowing should be performed
in the first or second week of the month ; that is, if to succeed
the plants of those sown in May, for a late crop next spring :
but if none was then sown, it is most necessary to sow some
early in the first week this month.

The plants raised from this sowing will produce tolerable
good heads next February or March, &c.

BORE-COLE.

The brown-cole, or bore-cole plants which were sown in the
beginning of last month, or in April, should now have a quan-
tity thinned out from the seed-bed, and pricked into a nursery-
bed. Set these plants four inches asunder each way, giving
them a moderate watering when planted, and afterwards occa.
sionally, if dry weather, and there let them grow about a month
or five weeks, by which time they will have acquired strength,
and must then be planted out where they are to remain, the dis-
tance as below.

Likewise let a quantity of the forward bore-cole plants, which
were raised in March or April, be planted ou,t finally to remain,
in rows two feet and a half asunder, and water them.

31(5

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[J UNE.

KIDNEY-BEANS.

Plant another crop of kidney-beans : they will succeed those
which were planted last month.

Any of the dwarf kinds may still be planted any time in this
month. But in order to have a regular supply, it will be proper
to plant, a crop in the first week ; and let some more be planted
about the twentieth, and towards the latter end of the month.

The climbing or running kinds of kidney-beans of any sorts,
may also, where required, be planted now.

The best kind of runners to plant at this time are the scar-
let blossom, and large white kind, and also the white Dutch ;
these sorts are exceeding good bearers, and none better to eat.

These running kinds should be planted in the first or second
week of the month, if for a full crop ; though they will succeed
any time in this month, but the sooner the better ; and those
which are planted early in the month will begin to bear in July,
but more abundantly in August, and in the scarlet, and the large
white variety thereof, will continue till October.

In planting the different kinds of kidney-beans, do not fail to
allow each sort room enough ; let drills be opened for the run-
ning kinds at least three feet and a half, or four feet asunder ;
and allow for the dwarf kinds two feet, or two and a half dis-
tance between drill and drill, drawing the drills now an inch
and a half deep, and put in the beans directly, especially if dry
hot weather, and earth them in regularly.

But in planting any kind of kidney-beans, it will now be pro-
per, if dry hot weather, and the ground is very dry, to water the
drills well before you put in the beans. This should not he
omitted in a dry time, as it will promote the free sprouting of
the beans, and they will rise sooner and more regularly.

Now draw some earth to the stems of the kidney-beans which
were planted last month ; for this will strengthen the plants,
and bring them forward greatly in their growth.

Likewise place sticks, or poles, &c, to the running kinds o.
kidney-beans, which were planted in May ; and let this be done
in proper time, as soon as the plants begin to send out their
runners, for they will then readily catch their supports ; gener-
ally twining to the right, contrary to the apparent motion of
the sun.

June.]

•I'HE KITCHEN GARDEN.

317

ASPARAGUS.

Asparagus still continues in perfection, observing to cut or
gather the shoots, as directed last month.

But let it be remembered, it is advisable to terminate the
general cutting for the year soon after the twentieth or twenty-
fourth of the month, otherwise it will weaken the roots: for so
long as you continue to cut the produce, the roots continue
sending up new shoots, though every time smaller; and if con-
tinued late in the season, would greatly exhaust themselves
that the future produce next year, &c, would be diminished in
proportion.

Before the asparagus runs up to stalks, you should now clear
the beds perfectly from weeds ; for that work cannot be so
readily done after the stalks have shot up to a great height.

Great care should now be taken to keep the asparagus plant-
ed last spring perfectly clear from weeds.

And the young plants which were sown in the spring will
now be up, and should be carefully hand-weeded,

PEAS AND BEANS.

Peas may still be sown, and you may also plant beans.

Though those peas and beans which are planted at this sea-
son do not always succeed in bearing abundantly, it will, how-
ever, where there is ground at liberty, be worth the trial to put
in a few of each, at two or three different times in this month ;
and if the season should prove somewhat moist, there will be a
great chance of reaping a tolerable crop from them in August
and September.

The best beans to plant now are the middling and small kinds ;
none better than the white blossom, Spanish, longpods, mum-
ford, mazagan, and the like kinds. I have gathered plentifully
from these sorts at Michaelmas.

But the large kind of peas such as marrowfats, &c, may still
be sown ; and it will be also proper to sow a few of the best kinds
of hotspur and dwarf peas.

Observe, that if the weather and ground be very dry, it will
be proper to soak the peas and beans for a few hours in water
taken from a pond or river : or, otherwise, water the drills well,
previous to sowing, &c, then sow or plant them ; and by this
means they will come up sooner, in a more regular manner to-
gether.

Let these late crops be sown and planted in the moistestpart

318

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[.June.

of the ground, where convenient, but not in a shady place, for
in such a situation the plants would draw up, and come to no-
thing; and remember to allow them sufficient room betweer-
the rows, for much depends upon that at this time of sowing.

Top your beans which are now in blossom, observing the
rules mentioned last month.

SAVOYS AND CABBAGES.

Now is the time to plant a crop of savoys and cabbages for
autumn and winter service.

Likewise plant out the red cabbages which were sown in the
spring, and they will be cabbaged by October, &c.

In planting out all these kinds take opportunity of moist or
showery weather, if possible, which will be of considerable ad-
vantage ; planting them in rows two feet and a half asunder, by
two feet distance in each row ; and if dry weather, give water at
planting, &c.

But in gardens, where there is no ground vacant from other
crops, or where there is a necessity of making the most of every
piece of kitchen ground, you may plant the savoy and cabbage
plants between rows of forward beans, and early cauliflowers, or
such like crops as stand distant in rows, and are soon to come
off the ground.

SOWING CABBAGES AND COLEWORTS.

You may now sow cabbage seed, of the sugar loaf, Yorkshire,
and other quick heading sorts ; the plants from this sowing will
come in both for small hearted young colewort cabbage the lat-
ter end of next month, and in August, &c, and to cabbage in
fine young heads in September, October, November, and De-
cember.

Sow also, about the middle of the month, some of the above
cabbage kinds to plant out for early autumn coleworts.

PLANTING POT-HERBS AND OTHER AROMATIC PLANTS.

Plant out from the seed-bed, the young thyme, savory, sweet
marjorum, and hyssop.

The plants will be ready to remove about the third or
fourth week in the month; but let it be done, if possible, in a
showery time. Prepare some beds for that purpose, three feet
and a half broad ; rake the surface smooth, and then put in
the plants.

June.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

319

Plant them by line ; setting them six or eight inches asunder
every way, and water them.

Or some of these plants may be occasionally planted in edg-
ings, along the sides of any particular beds or borders, &c, such
as thyme, savory, sweet marjorum, and hyssop.

But when this is intended, you may occasionally sow the seed
in that order in the spring; sowing it in small drills, and so per-
mitting the plants to remain where thus sown.

Plant out also the borage, burnet, sorrel, clary, marigold, an-
gelica, and carduus, and all other pot and physical herbs that
were sown in the spring or last autumn.

Plant them a foot or fifteen inches distance every way.
Or some may remain where sown, and thinned, where too
thick, to proper distances, as above.

But the borage succeeds best without transplanting ; only ob-
serving to thin the plants six or eight inches to afoot distance;
and the marigolds may also be treated in the same manner ; but
these will succeed well enough either way.

Plant where wanted, slips of sage : take the young shoots of
the year, and they will take root tolerably well, any time in this
month ; plant them in a shady border. — See May.

The slips or cuttings of thyme, savory, and hyssop, may also
still be planted where required : also cuttings of mint.

Likewise plant, where required, slips or cuttings of the young
shoots of lavender, and lavender-cotton, rue, rosemary, and the
like kind of aromatic plants.

Let the above slips or cuttings be planted in a shady situa-
tion ; and, in dry weather, let them be now and then moderately
watered ; if this be done, not one in ten will fail.

Plant also cuttings of mint where beds of new plants are
wanted; but should be done early in the month, taking
cuttings of the young green stalks, or top shoots, five or
six inches long ; plant them in a shady border, and well wa
tered.

GATHER MINT AND OTHER HERBS, &c.

Gather mint, balm, and other aromatic herbs, towards the
end of this month, for drying, when the plants are nearly of full
growth ; and also for that purpose gather all such physical plants
as are now in advanced growth, as above.

These sorts of plants, when intended to gather them for
long keeping, distilling, or principal medical purposes, &c., are
generally in best perfection for those occasions when well ad-

320

THE KITCHEN GARDEN,

[June.

vanced to full growth, and nearly beginning to advance for
flowering.

They must be cut in a dry day, and, those for keeping,
immediately spread, or hung up in a dry airy room, out of
the reach of the sun, where they may dry gently, as the full
sun would exhaust them too much, and render them of little
effect.

Cut peppermint for distilling ; and also spearmint, penny-
royal, and the like kinds.

These and all other plants that are intended to be distilled
should also be gathered for that purpose, when they are arrived
almost to full growth, and beginning to flower, as just above
observed ; therefore, if they are not yet in proper growth, defer
cutting them till July.

CAPSICUMS, LOVE APPLES, AND BASIL.

Plant out capsicums, love apples, and basil, if not done last
month : see the methods there directed ; and choose, if possi-
ble, showery weather for planting them.

WATERING IN GENERAL.

Water in dry weather, all the different kinds of plants which
nave been lately planted and pricked out : this should be duly
performed till the plants have taken root.

Likewise, in very dry hot weather, give occasional watering
to small young plants remaining where sown ; also to seed-beds
lately sown, and to others, where the plants are coming up, or
advancing in small young growth.

SCORZONERA, SALSAFY, AND HAMBURGH PARSLEY.

Thin and clear from weeds the crops of scorzonera, salsafy,
skirrets, and large-rooted parsley; which perform either by hand
or small-hoeing ; thinning out the plants six inches distance ;
tnd cut up all weeds.

GARLICK AND SHALLOTS.

Garlick and shallots, if required for early use, some may be
..aken up. — 'See July, fyc.

CARDOONS.

Plant out cardoons into the place where they are to remain
to blanch.

These plants must be allowed a considerable space of room

June.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

321

to grow, in order that they may be conveniently earthed up to
the proper height.

Choose a spot of good light soil for them, and let trenches
be prepared for them in the same way as for celery. Let the
trenches be four or four and a half feet apart, centre from cen-
tre j dig out the trench about a spade's depth, and twelve or
fourteen inches wide ; lay a few inches of rotten dung in the
bottom ; dig it in, incorporating it well with the soil, and plant
the plants with a line, along the centre, at twelve or fourteen
inches apart.

Let them be watered as soon as planted, and at times, till
they have taken root.

The reason for setting the above plants at so great a distance
from one another, is, as before said, in order both that they may
have full scope for their large growth, and that you maybe able
to obtain a sufficient quantity of earth between them, to land
them up to a due height for blanching ; for when the plants ar-
rive at their full growth, they are between three and four feet
high, and should be earthed up by degrees considerably towards
their tops, first tying the leaves of each plant close together
with hay bands, &c— See the work of August, September, and
October.

These plants are a species of artichoke (Cynara), their
leaves being very like them ; but it is the stalks of the leaves
only of the cardoons that are used, which is principally in soup
and for stewing, &c; but they must first be rendered perfectly
white and tender, by landing up as above-mentioned, other-
wise would be intolerably bitter.

RADISHES AND SPINACH.

Common and turnip-radishes and spinach may still be sown
at two or three different times this month, if a constant supply
of these plants are required : choose an open space of ground,
and as soon as digged, sow the seed, each kind separate, tread
them down, and rake them in evenly.

Thin and weed the crops of radishes and spinach, which were
sown last month. — See April and May.

322

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[June.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

APRICOT-TREES AND PEACHES, &c.

Where the apricot, peach, and nectarine trees, were not looked
over last month, in the young shoots of the year, to give the re-
quisite regulation of summer pruning and training, it must now

be done. , ... , .v

This work should be proceeded m the beginning of the
month and followed with the utmost diligence till the whole is
completed ; for were these trees suffered to remain long in the
wild confused manner that they naturally grow into at this
season, it would not only prove detrimental in a great degree
to the trees, but would also very much retard the growth and
ripening of these kinds of fruit.

Therefore let these wall-trees be now, in general, gone over;
takino- care to clear away all the ill grown and ill placed shoots ;
for this will not only strengthen, but make more room to train
the useful shoots in a proper manner to the wall.

That is, selecting a plentiful supply of all the best growing
well placed shoots, to retain in all parts where they can be train-
ed in regularly ; prune out all the irregular placed forenght
shoots, and others not eligibly situated for regular training;
likewise very rank luxuriants of.remarkably more vigorous growth
than the general shoots of the-same tree ; also cut out any ill
formed, and thick, spongy, and other improper and apparently
useless growth ; and, where the general proper shoots are over
abundant, cut away the worst of the superfluous productions, m
a thinning regularity, so as to leave a plentiful abundance of
the best in all parts of the tree ; and let all the others, as above,
be pruned quite close to the places whence they originate.

In this manner proceed in the summer pruning and regula-
tion of these trees, in the young shoots of the same year only ;
by cutting out the irregular placed and improper, as above ; and
being particularly careful to leave a sufficiency of the best shoots,
to have a plentiful choice in winter pruning for bearers next
year; at the same time pruning out only the evidently super-
fluous or overabundant thereof; retaining as many of- the best
regular placed, kindly growing, side-shoots, as can be conven-
iently laid in with some proper regularity, and with a terminal
or leading shoot to each branch; that in the whole there may
be an abundance to choose from in winter for next summers

JUNE.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 323

bearers, as aforesaid ; and let them all be trained in now, close
to the wall, in a neat regular manner, generally at their full
length.

It would be improper to shorten the shoots at this season,
for the reasons mentioned last month, but they should be laid
in at their full length, in all parts where practicable : or only
shorten any extreme shoots that extend beyond the limited
bounds of the respective tree ; or occasionally so shorten any
particular shoot, in vacant parts, to gain a supply of laterals the
same year to furnish the vacancies.

Let the shoots, in general, be laid, or nailed in, as regularly
as can be ; and take particular care to train them in such a man-
ner as the leaves may afford a moderate shade, in hot sunpy
days, to the fruit : for all kinds of wall fruit thrive much the
best under a slight coverture of leaves : the leaves will also shel-
ter the fruit somewhat from the cold night air.

THINNING WALL-FRUIT.

Thin the wall fruit, where it is produced thick, and still re-
maining too close upon the trees.

This is to be understood principally of apricots, peaches, and
nectarines, and which should be completed the beginning of the
month; and in thinning them, let the same rule be observed
now as that mentioned in the last month of the same kinds of
fruit.

APPLE-TREES, PEARS, PLUMS, &c.

The apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, both against walls
and espaliers, will now have made strong shoots ; and where it
was not done in May, it is now full time they were gone over
and properly regulated.

Let those trees be looked over with very good attention, and
let them now be properly cleared from all useless and unneces-
sary shoots of the year j that is to say, let all singularly luxuri-
ant shoots, wherever they appear, be taken off close : all fore-
right shoots must also be taken away ; and also such shoots as
are produced on parts of the trees, where they cannot be pro-
perly trained in ; and such as are absolutely not wanted for a
supply of' wood, must all be displaced : at the same time being
careful to retain a moderate supply of the best regular placed
shoots in different parts of the trees to train in to choose from
in the winter pruning, by the rules explained below, viz.

That in ordering these trees, it must be observed, that there

324

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[June.

is no need to leave a general supply of young wood, as in
peaches, nectarines, &c, which bear their fruit always upon the
one year old shoots, and in consequence thereof there is a ne-
cessity to leave every, summer a general supply of young wood
in every part of the tree ; for, as in apples, pears, plums, and
cherries, their branches do not begin to bear till they are two
»r three, and some four or five years old ; that is, the branches
»f cherries generally begin to bear at one and two ; the plum and
apple at two or three ; but those of the pear are at least three ;
but are sometimes four or five years before they begin to bear ;
and when the said branches of all these kinds have arrived to a
fruitful state, the same bearers continue bearing for many years,
so that, as above hinted, there is no occasion, after the trees
are once furnished fully with bearing branches, to leave such a
general and constant supply of young wood annually as in the
.rees above mentioned : but, notwithstanding, it will be proper
.o leave, in every tree, some of the best grown and well placed
Bide-shoots, and particularly in the most vacant places, and to-
wards the lower parts, together with the leading one to each
oranch, if room ; and this select reserve of the present shoots
should not now be omitted ; for some of these will very proba-
bly be wanted to supply some place or other of the respective
trees, in the winter pruning.

And where there appears to be an absolute want of wood in
any part of these trees, do not fail, in that case, to leave, if pos-
sible, some good shoots in such vacant parts.

It is always the best method to leave in a moderate way, a
full sufficiency of the best shoots at this season ; they will be
ready in case they should be wanted to fill any vacancy, or to
supply the place of any casual unfruitful branches, useless, or
dead wood, when you come to prune in winter ; and such shoots
as are not then wanted can be very easily cut away ; and there
is nothing like having enough of proper young wood to choose
jom at the principal pruning time.

Let all the shoots which are now left be trained in at their
full length, and nailed or otherwise fastened up close to the
wall or espalier, in a regular manner all summer.

But in pruning the cherries in wall-trees, it should be observed
of the Morello cherry, in particular, that as this sort most gen-
erally bears or produces the fruit principally in the greatest
bundance on the one year old shoots, should therefore at this
pruning retain a general supply of the present shoots of the'-

June.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

325

year, to train in abundantly for next year's bearers, similar to
peaches, nectarines, &c.

SUPPLYING VACANT PARTS OF WALL-TREES WITH BRANCHES.

At this season it will be proper to observe that where there
is any vacant spaces in wall or espalier trees, it is now a most
eligible time to prepare to furnish them with the requisite sup-
ply of wood in such parts, the same year, by pinching or prun-
ing short some contiguous young shoots..

For example, if two, three, or more branches may be wanted
to fill the vacancy, and suppose there be only a young shoot
produced in or near that place, it will, in such case, be proper
in the first or second week of the month to shorten the said
shoot, or shoots, to three, four, or five eyes, according to their
strength ; and by this practice each shoot will send forth two or
three, or perhaps four lateral shoots the same season, to fill the
vacancy.

The above method of shortening the young shoots of the
same season may likewise be practised on young trees, to pro-
cure a supply of branches to form the head of a proper expan-
sion as soon as possible.

NEW-PLANTED TREES.

Examine new-planted fruit-trees, that is, such as were plant-
ed last autumn, winter, and spring ; in particular, standard trees :
see that they be well secured, so that they cannot be rocked
about by the wind, to disturb their roots.

This should be duly attended to, but particularly such stan-
dard trees which have tall stems and full heads ; for it will
evidently appear that those trees which are secured will make
stronger shoots than those that are not; likewise take care
to keep the earth well closed about the bottom of the stems of
new-planted trees, that the sun or wind may not have access,
that way, to dry the earth near the roots.

Look to the young wall and espalier trees planted last autumn
or spring, and which were headed down in the spring ; they
will have made some strong shoots, and the said shoots should
now be nailed to the wall, both to train them timely in regular
order, and to secure them from the power of the wind.

Water must still be given in very dry weather, to new-plant-
ed trees, but in particular to such as were planted late in the
spring.

Likewise to late-planted young wall-trees, &c, in the full

I

326 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [JtJNE.

sun, it would be of much advantage to continue some mulchy
dung; on the ground over the roots, to keep out the parching
heat and diving winds.

VINES.

The vines against the walls which were not looked over,
and properly regulated last month, will now require it very
much.

Where this work was omitted in the former month, it
should now be forwarded with all convenient expedition, other-
wise it would be impossible to procure, at the proper season
large and well-ripened grapes ; for when the vines are permit-
ted to run into disorder, it is a great disadvantage to the fruit,
for the bunches of grapes will not only be small, but will also
be irregular, and the grapes will ripen late, and will not be full
flavoured.

Therefore, where it was not done in May, let the vines be
now, in general, gone over ; and let them be thoroughly cleared
from all the useless shoots, as described last month, and then
let all the useful shoots be immediately nailed in close to the
wall, in a regular and neat manner.

Observe now, in ordering the vines, as in the last month, to
nail in all the strong shoots as have fruit upon them ; and all
such other shoots as are strong, and rise in parts of the wood
where wanted, must likewise be left, and laid in close ; but
clear away all small weak shoots in every part ; and likewise
take off all such shoots as are barren, or without fruit, that
rige in places where not wanted, or cannot be readily trained
in.

Those vines which were looked over, and regulated in May,
should now be looked over again.

In doing this, observe to clear away all improper shoots that
have been produced since last month : and to rub off all those
small shoots which rise from the sides of the retained principal
shoots of the same summer, and from the old wood ; except, in
the latter, any good shoots rise in vacant parts, where they can
be regularly trained.

VINEYARDS.

The vineyard still demands a good share of attendance ; the
vines must not be suffered to run into confusion, for in prevent-
ing this depends the whole success.

Therefore let the bearing shoots be trained to the stakes with

JuNE.l

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

327

some degree of regularity, so that every shoot may enjoy the
same benefit of the sun, and free air. At the same time dis-
place all weak and straggling shoots, and all such as cannot be
trained in properly to the stakes.

Destroy weeds in the vineyard ; this is also a very necessary
work, for it is absolutely a very great advantage to the growth
and timely ripening of the grapes, to keep the ground near the
vines clean from all weeds, &c, and rake off all litter to have a
clean even surface, which is a particular advantage.

BUDDING OR INOCULATING.

Budding, or inoculating, may be begun upon several sorts of
fruit-trees, towards the latter end of the month.

The sorts proper to begin upon are the early kinds of apri-
cots, peaches, and nectarines.

Cloudy weather best suits this work ; but if no such weather
happens, it must be forwarded at all convenient opportunities ;
or occasionally in a morning or evening.

The proper stocks on which to bud the above kinds of fruit-
trees are principally those of the plum raised from the stones
of the fruit ; and when two or three years old, are of a proper
size to bud upon ; or these stocks may be also raised from the
suckers of plum trees, and by layers thereof. — See the work,
Of Budding, next month, for the different sorts of stocks, and
the work of February, where are directions for raising them both
from seed and suckers.

The buds must be inserted generally but one in each stock,
at about six inches from the ground, if the tree is intended
to be a dwarf for the wall, &c. ; but for a standard, the bud-
ding may be performed at the height of three, four, five, or six
feet.

But the manner of performing this operation is inserted in
full in the work of the nursery for July.

STRAWBERRIES.

The strawberry beds must now be duly supplied, in dry wea-
ther, with water, as the plants will now be in blossom, and the
fruit setting and advancing in growth.

The waterings should, in a very dry time, be repeated
every two or three days, from the beginning till about the
middle of the month ; for about that time the principal crop
of most kinds of strawberries will be about setting and swell-
ing to their respective sizes : and while the fruits are taking

328

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[June.

their growth, the plants should be encouraged, by keeping
the earth in the beds always in a middling degree moist, and
the advantage will plainly appear in the size, as well as the
quality of the fruit.

PLANTING STRAWBERRIES.

Where new plantations of strawberries are wanted, it will,
about the middle or latter end of the month, be a proper time
to provide some young plants for that purpose.

Remember, generally, at this time, to choose principally the
young plants of the same year, formed at the joint of the run-
ners, that issue from the sides of the old plants.

In choosing the plants, let them be taken from such straw-
berry beds as bear well and produce large fruit.

Choose a parcel of the stoutest plants of the same summer's
growth, as above hinted, taking them carefully up with the
roots.

Trim the roots a little, and cut off the strings or runners
from each plant ; then let them be immediately planted.

They may be planted, some in the beds or places where they
are finally to remain ; but it would rather be advisable to
plant a principal quantity in a nursery-bed, in a shady situation ;
a shady border will be a proper place : put in the plants five or
six inches asunder ; and give a gentle watering to settle the
earth to their roots.

There let them remain in growth till September or October;
by which time they will be strong, and in fine order to trans-
plant, and are then to be planted out for good ; they must then
be planted fifteen inches asunder every way.

The above method of procuring strawberry plants at this
season is not commonly practised ; but is much the best way,
for the plants will be much stronger and finer by September,
han they can be procured at that time from the old beds, and
tvill bear sooner.

Or for immediate bearers, you may, any time in this month,
plant out some of the young runner plants of the Alpine or
prolific monthly strawberry ; they will bear fruit the same year,
both on the present plants and their runners, in August, Sep-
tember, and October ; and in mild seasons, this sort of straw-
oerry will bear till near Christmas, if in a warm border, or de-
fended under frames and glasses.

June.]

THE PLEASURE GARDEN.

329

PRESERVING CHERRIES FROM BIRDS.

Hang up nets before early cherry-trees, against walls,
to protect the fruit from sparrows, jays, and other devouring
birds.

Likewise, where large nets can be conveniently drawn over
some of the choicer kinds of standard cherry-trees, it should be
done the beginning of this month.

DESTROYING SNAILS AND OTHER INSECTS.

Destroy snails; look for them in a morning or evening, and
after showers of rain in particular, upon the apricot, peach, and
nectarine trees : otherwise these vermin would gnaw and eat
the fruit.

And where small destructive insects, or vermicular blights
prevail in any kind of wall-trees, &c, annoying the leaves, ten-
der young shoots and fruit, and greatly retarding their growth,
should continue to use every probable means to extirpate them
as much as possible, as intimated in the two immediately pre-
ceding months.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN.

TRANSPLANTING ANNUALS.

Now plant out all the hardier kinds of annual flowers, as
also many of the tenderer sorts into the borders, beds, and
other different parts of the garden where they are to remain for
lowering.

The sorts proper to plant out now are French and African
marigolds, chrysanthemums, persicaria, the tree and purple
amaranthuses, the egg plant, stramonium, palma Christi, love-
apples, Jacobam, yellow sultan, nolana prostrata, scarlet convol-
vulus, and the tobacco plant.

Plant out also the marvel of Peru, balsams, and capsicums,
the China asters, Indian pinks, Chinese hollyhocks, mignonette,
and ten-week stocks, with the large convolvulus, and such
like sorts; but the last generally succeeds best when sown
where it is to remain : also, among the above, may plant in

330

THE PLEASURE

[June.

the borders, &c. for the greater variety, some of the common
sorts of cockscombs, and globe amaranthus, &c.

Observe that all the above and such other annual plants as
are now to be transplanted, should, if possible, be removed in a
showery time.

Let them be carefully taken up with balls, or at least with
as much earth as will readily hang about their roots ; and in
that manner plant them in the beds, borders, pots, or other
parts of the garden.

As soon as planted, give every plant a little water ; and in
dry weather repeat the watering occasionally, till they have all
fairly taken root.

Observe, according as the different kinds of these plants ad-
vance in height, to let them be properly supported with sticks ;
for the beauty of these sorts depends greatly in being neatly
trained with upright stems.

TENDER ANNUALS.

The prime cockscombs and globe-amaranthus, double bal-
sams, double stramoniums, and egg-plant, and such other cu-
rious annuals will now need to be often refreshed with water.

These plants being in pots, and still under frames and glasses,
will in hot sunny weather, require watering almost daily, or, at
least, three times a week ; applying it generally of a morning or
afternoon, or towards the evening.

The plants must also be allowed a good share of fresh air
every day, either by raising one end of the lights, or drawing
them open two, three, or four inches, &c.

The early balsams that are in flower, and grown to any
tolerable size, and also the combs and such like, as are pretty
strong, and of the requisite advanced growth, may be brought
into the open air, towards the middle or latter end of this
month.

HARDY ANNUALS.

If any of the patches of hardy annuals in the borders remain
too thick, let them now be thinned in the order directed last
month, and give water.

May still sow some quick-flowering annuals to blow in au-
tumn, such as ten-week stocks, candy-tuft, virgin stock, mign-
onette, &c.

JUNE.]

Oil FLOWER GARDEN.

331

' TULIPS, CROWN IMPERIALS, JONQUILS, \c.

Tulips will now be mostly, in general, past flowering, and
their leaves decaying ; it is then proper time to take up the
roots where intended, and to separate the offsets.

Let this be done in dry weather ; and as soon as they are
taken up out of the ground, spread them upon mats a little in
the shade from the mid-day sun, to dry.

When they are thoroughly dried, and somewhat hardened,
let them be very well cleaned, and separate all the offsets from
the large roots ; and then put up each sort, separately, in bags
or boxes, or upon shelves ; and the whole kept in some dry
apartment till September, October, or November ; at which
time plant them again.

Take up also, where it is intended, the roots of crown im-
perials, narcissus, and jonquils, snow-drop roots, and the roots
of spring crocus, and such other bulbous roots as have done
blowing, and whose leaves decay, and which shall seem neces-
sary to be taken up, agreeably to the hints given last month, of
the utility of taking up bulbous roots soon after they have done
flowering.

Let them, as soon as taken up, be separated from the increased
parts; that is, from the small roots commonly called offsets;
and these, after another year's growth, will also produce flowers ;
when the offsets are taken off; let the roots be spread thin
each sort separately, upon mats to dry ; when that is effected,
part the offsets from the principal bulbs, and let the whole be
cleaned, and put up till the season for planting, which may be
done in September or any time in October, November, and be-
ginning of December, in open, mild, dry weather ; but you may
plant the small offsets a month or two sooner, or directly in
beds.

This is also a proper time to transplant bulbous roots that
have done blowing, and whose leaves are on the decay.

That is, the bulbs, when their stalks and leaves decay, may
then be taken up, and the offsets all taken away from the main
roots : then prepare and dig the ground; when that is done the
principal roots may either, if thought convenient, be immediately
planted again in the beds, or borders, &c, where they are to
blow, or retained for autumn planting.

All bulbous roots, of the choicer kinds, particularly such as
the capital varieties of tulips, hyacinths, &c, should generally
be taken up annually soon after they have done flowering both

332

THE PLEASURE

[June.

in order to separate the offsets, and to new-prepare the beds ;
and the most proper time for this is shortly after their flower-
ing is past, when the leaves and stalks decay ; for as then the
bulbs cease growing, draw no nourishment, and being in an
Inactive state, is most certainly the only eligible time to remove
bulbous roots either for keeping out of ground several months,
or to plant again soon after.

The common sort of bulbous roots, when taken up and parted
from the offsets, may then either be planted again directly, or
may be dried and cleaned, as before said, and put in boxes, and
kept three, four, or five months.

But the fine tulip roots, and hyacinths, in particular, should
be kept above ground till about Michaelmas time, or a month
longer : for they will shoot much stronger, and produce larger
flowers than the roots that are in the ground all summer.

And also the crown imperials, orange lilies, narcissuses,
bulbous iris, jonquils, and the like, that are taken up at the
decay of the leaves, will likewise bear to be kept above ground
several months ; depositing them in some dry apartment till the
season for general planting in autumn, &c.

GUERNSEY LILY, AND OTHER AUTUMNAL BULBOUS ROOTS.

Mat now transplant or remove any of the autumnal-flower-
ing bulbs ; such as Guernsey and Belladonna lily, &c. ; the
eaves will now be decayed, which is the proper time to remove
them.

But these need not be taken up oftener than once in two or
three years, especially the Guernsey lily, which is then most
necessary to be done to separate them from the increased parts,
or offsets ; and by taking "them up and parting them, and then
planting them into a new prepared bed, or singly in pots of new
compost, it will encourage them greatly, and they will shoot
and flower much stronger.

. They may either be replanted directly, or soon after removal,
or housed till July or August, and then finally planted ; and
which, in the full bulbs, will all flower the same year, in autumn :
and the offsets, after having one or two years' growth, will also
flower in perfection. — See July and August.

These roots should generally be planted in pots of light
sandy earth ; or some in beds of similar soil ; but it is most
advisable to plant a principal part in middling pots, for the con-
venience of placing them undeT shelter in cold or bad weather,
in autumn and winter.

JtSE.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

333

They commonly flower in September and October ; at which
time those in beds should be sheltered occasionally, in very
wet and stormy weather, either with a frame and glasses, or a
covering of hoops and mats ; and those in pots may be placed
in a green-house, or a frame, &c.

And during the winter season, the beds or pots wherein the
roots are deposited, should be sheltered with a frame and
glasses ; or the pots, &c, removed into a green-house, or frame,
&c, as above advised, in their flowering state.

RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE ROOTS.

The ranunculus and anemone roots, that are past flowering,
should also, as soon as their leaves begin to wither, be taken
out of the ground.

There is a great deal of care required in taking up these roots,
as being small, and nearly the colour of the earth they grow in :
it should be done in a dry day, and when the ground is also
pretty dry ; or, for the greater certainty of finding all the roots,
especially the anemones, and their small offsets, may sift the
earth of the bed as deep as they are planted, which may be
more readily effected if a light meliorating soil, paring it up
neatly an equal depth, and so search for the roots among the
little lumps of earth and stones that remain in the sieve.

When the whole of both sorts is taken up, let them be pro-
perly dried and cleaned, then deposited in boxes, &c, and place
them in a dry room, till the time for planting them again in
autumn and spring.

HYACINTH ROOTS.

If any of the early flowering curious hyacinth roots which
were out of bloom last month, were then taken up, and laid side-
ways into a ridge of dry earth to plump and harden, they will
now be in proper order to be taken up and housed.

Take them up in a dry day and clean them ; then spread
them upon mats in a dry place for a few days ; and put them
np.in close and dry boxes, till September or October, &c. ; then
plant them again.

Where any hyacinth roots of the fine double kinds still re-
main in the beds where they Mowed, they should be taken up
in the beginning of the month, or when their leaves decay.

334

THE PLEASURE

[June.

MANAGEMENT OF AUTUMNAL FLOWERING BULBS.

The beginning or middle of this month is still a proper time
to take up, or transplant most kinds of bulbous roots as blow
in autumn.

In particular, colchicums, autumnal crocuses, and narcissus,
Guernsey and Belladonna lilies, &c, and such other autumnal
flowering bulbs, or tuberous roots, whose leaves are decayed,
and the roots not in a growing state.

When the roots are taken up, let all the offsets adhering to
the remaining bulbs be taken away ; the roots may then be plant-
ed again directly, or may be kept out of the ground some time ;
but not longer than the end of July, or till the first or second
week in August ; because, if kept longer out of the ground,
they will not blow with any tolerable degree of strength in au-
tumn, as all these sorts commonly flower in September and
October ; generally unattended by leaves, which come up soon
after the flowers fade.

CYCLAMENS.

This is a proper season to transplant cyclamens : the leaves
being now decayed, may take up the roots and part the offsets,
if any ; then new-prepare the mould and plant them again.

The principal varieties of this small, but delicate flower,
should mostly be planted in pots, for moving to occasional shel-
ter ; or some hardier sorts may also be planted in the ground,
under protection of a warm south wall, &c. ; for if in a more
exposed situation, the roots would be liable to suffer in winter,
and not flower well.

But when these roots are planted in pots, they may be mov-
ed into a green-house, or placed under a garden-frame in winter.

This plant generally begins to flower in February or March,
and some in autumn and winter ; grows but a few inches high ;
but the flowers are of curious structure, and delicately beauti-
ful.

PROPAGATE FIBROUS ROOTED PLANTS.

Propagate perennial fibrous rooted flowering plants, by plant-
ing cuttings of the young flower stalks.

By this method, the double scarlet lychnis, lychnideas, dou-
ble rockets, and several others of the like perennial plants, may
be increased.

Let some of the stoutest flower-stems be cut off close to the

June.] or flower garden. 33/t

head of the plant ; cut these into lengths of three or four joint.'
each ; plant them about four inches asunder, in a shady border,
putting two joints of the cuttings into the ground, and water
them as soon as planted.

It will be a good method to cover the cuttings close with
hand-glasses ; for this will greatly promote their taking root,
giving them necessary waterings.

TRANSPLANT SEEDLING PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS.

Transplant from the seed-beds, the wall-flowers, stock July-
flowers, sweet-williams, carnations, pinks, and columbines, &c,
which were sown in March or April.

They must now be planted into nursery-beds about six inches
asunder, and give them a good watering, to settle the earth
properly about their roots.

: The plants are to remain in these beds till autumn or spring,
and are then to be planted out for good, into the borders or
spaces where they are to remain, and in which they will all
flower the next year in their respective seasons. Though, as
to the stocks in particular, they having long naked roots, it is
advisable to plant some at once where they are to remain in
beds, borders, pots, &c.

Transplant also the hollyhocks, tree primrose, foxgloves, and
pyramidal campanulas, Canterbury bells, and Greek valerian,
single rose-campion, rockets, scarlet lychnis, and such other
perennial and biennial plants as were sown two or three months
ago.

These must also be planted about six inches apart in nur-
sery-beds, there to remain till September or October, &c, by
which time they will make strong and handsome plants ; and
may either then be taken up and planted out where they are to
remain to flower, or some may remain till spring for final trans-
planting.

They will all flower next summer, and will make a beautiful
appearance, provided they are properly disposed in a varied
order in the borders and other compartments of the garden.

CARE OF BLOWING CARNATIONS.

Take care of the choice stage carnations ; some of the for-
wardest will, probably, towards the latter end of the month,
begin to break their outer cup or flower pod for flowering, but
more generally not till July ; at which time some particular
sorts of the larger bursting flowers will probably require some

THE PLEASURE

[Dune.

attendance, in order to assist their blowing in proper re-
gularity.

One great article, in the beauty of this curious flower, is to
have it open regularly ; but this the larger bursting flowers do
not always effect without some little assistance of the hand :
therefore, in order to facilitate the equal opening of the flower
pod, and more regular expansion of the petals, in such flowers
particularly which discover a tendency to burst open irregular-
ly, may carefully slit the pod or flower-cup, a little way down
at' top, on the opposite side, in two or three different parts, so
as to promote the flower spreading regularly each way round.

This should be done just as the flower begins to break the
pod, with a small pair of narrow-pointed scissars, cutting the
pods therewith a little way down from each notch or indentation
at the top.

But take good care not to cut the pods too deep at first, but
rather open it but a little at each place ; and, in a day or two
after, if that is not sufficient, cut it down a little more.

But in doing this take care to leave so much of the bottom
part of the cup entire as will answer the purpose of keeping all
the petals, or flower-leaves, regularly together, that they may
expand equally every way, in a circular order ; and to assist
which some florists bestow great pains in placing and spreading
out the petals of the flower as much horizontally as possible,
in proper regularity, in order both to enlarge the circumference
and to dispose the flower leaves in a particular manner, to show
the stripes and variegations to the best advantage ; and gene-
rally place a sort of collar of stiff paper under the flower, on
which to spread and support the petals more effectually re-
gular.

However, the above care is only required or practised occa-
sionally in some of the principal large flowers, or more general-
ly of those of the bursters, than the whole flowers, which most
commonly open more regularly, and form handsomer flowers
than the others, with less trouble.

Though, as very probably these flowers will not be sufficient
in blow before next month for the above practice, where it may
be occasionally intended, the same intimations relative thereto
are equally applicable at that time.

Remember that as the capital sorts of carnation plants in pots
designed for stage flowers will be now considerably advanced
towards flowering, it is proper, some time this month, to place
them upon the allotted stage or stand, accordingly to remain

June.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

337

for flowering ; but the top of the stage must not be covered
until the flowers are open, and then the cover must constantly
be kept on, to defend them from the sun and heavy rains.— •
See July.

The pots must be pretty often watered ; they will require it
at least three times a week. The rule is, to keep the early al-
ways moderately moist.

Likewise, let the flower-stalks of these plants, as they rise in
height, be neatly tied up to the sticks. The stalk should be
tied in several places, bringing it to touch the stick ; but do not
tie it too strait.

All other carnations, both in pots, beds, borders, &c, should
now have the flower-stalks well supported as above : and where
any are not yet sticked, it will now be most necessary to be done
as soon as possible.

PLANTING CARNATIONS AND PINK SEEDLINGS. " (

The carnation plants and pinks, raised this year from seed,
will be ready by the middle of the month to be removed from
the seed-bed into a nursery-bed.

Prepare for that purpose a bed or two, or as may be required,
of good earth, three feet and a half wide, break the clods well,
and rake the surface of each bed even.

In each bed, put in six rows of plants by line, placing them
six inches asunder in the row. Water them gently as soon as
planted ; and in dry weather repeat the waterings at least once
every two days, till they have taken good root.

In ten or twelve weeks' time, if advanced in full growth, they
should be removed again into another bed ; they are then to be
planted a foot asunder each way. Some of them may also, at
that time, be planted out into the borders among other plants

They will all flower next year, and, when in flower, should be
examined with good attention : for out of the whole there will
no doubt be some new, and also very good flowers, and these
are to be then increased by layers, pipings, or cuttings, slips,
&c, according to the general method : laying and piping is a
sure method to propagate the sorts you desire ; for the layers,
&c, raised this year, will flower next summer, and produce in-
variably the same sort of flowers, similar in colour, stripes, and
every character to those of the mother plant ; but it. is not so
with the seedlings ; for if you sow the seed of the finest carna-
tion or pink, &c, it is probable you will not obtain one flower
in return like the original, and. perhaps, not many that can be

p

K38

THE PLEASURE

[June.

reckoned very good flowers, so variable are they from seed ;
and on the contrary, there will sometimes, as above said, come
many new and valuable flowers from seed ; so that sowing some
seed every year is the only way to obtain new varieties ; and
these increased and continued the same by layers and pipings,
&c , as above remarked, and as directed below.

LAYING CARNATIONS.

Prop agate carnations by layers. This work is generally be-
gun about the middle of this, and continued, according as the
shoots of the plants become fit, till the end of next month :
observing the proper parts for laying are principally the young
bottom shoots of the same year, when about five or six inches
long, and their stems of some toleiable strength : and which
are to be layed, the flower part into the earth, as they remain
in growth on the parent plants.

The general method of performing the operation of laying
the plants is this : — ■

In the first place, provide some rich light mould, in a wheel-
barrow or basket, and a parcel of small hooked sticks, or pegs,
cut about three or four inches long, with which to peg the
layers down ; together with a sharp penknife.

Having these ready, clear away the weeds, and any litter
about the plants ; then stir the surface of the earth a little ;
and where necessary, occasionally, may add thereon as much
of the above provided light mould as will raise the surface
round each plant to a convenient height, so as to receive the
shoots or layers readily.

When this is done, proceed to prepare the shoots in order
for laying, in the following manner ; — .

Pull off the leaves of the lower part of the shoot ; but let
those above, and which grow upon the head of the shoot, re-
main, only cutting away about two or three inches of the
tops evenly ; then about the middle of the shoot, on the undei
side, fixing upon a joint, place your sharp knife towards the
lower part, cut half away into the joint slantingly upward, slitting
the shoot accordingly from the said joint, rather more than half
way up towards the next joint above.

Then make a small neat opening in the earth one or two
inches deep, and lay therein the stem and slit part of the shoot,
with the cut open, and the top an inch or two out of the earth,
and secure it there with one of the hooked sticks, raising the
top of the shoot gently upright, and so as the slit at bottom

June.]

Oil FLOWER GARDEN.

339

may keep open ; then cover in that part and the body of the
shoot with more of the same mould ; and in that manner pro-
ceed, laying all the shoots of each plant or stool.

As soon as all the shoots belonging to one plant are layed,
give them a gentle watering, which will settle the earth regu-
larly about all the layers.

The waterings should be, in dry weather, often repeated ;
but let it be done with moderation, and always lightly, so as
not to disturb or wash the earth from the layers.

In six weeks' time, or thereabout, the layers will be finely
rooted, and are then to be taken off from the old stools and
planted, some of the best singly into small pots, and the rest
into nursery-beds, there to remain till October ; at which time .
part may be taken up with balls of earth about their roots, and
planted in the flower borders ; and some of the principal sorts
plant in small pots ; and the others may remain in the nursery-
beds all winter; and in which season some of the choicer sorts
in pots may be placed in garden frames, or where they may be
protected in time of hard frosts, snows, &c, and in the lattei
2nd of February, or in March, or April, are to be finally trans-
planted, some into larger pots, and the rest into the borders, &c.

They will all flower in good perfection next summer, and
afford a supply of layers for further increase.

DOUBLE SWEET-WILLIAMS AND PINKS.

Double sweet-williams and pinks may also be increased by
laying down the young shoots as above.

The shoots of those plants will be ready for laying towards
the latter end of the month : and are to be prepared and layed
in the same manner as the carnations.

The layers of carnations, pinks, double sweet-williams, and
the like, raised this year, will all blow next summer.

PROPAGATING PINKS AND CARNATIONS BY PIPINGS OR
CUTTINGS.

Propagate also pinks and carnations by pipings or cuttings
of the young shoots, which is a neat and expeditious method of
propagating, and is more peculiarly adapted for pinks; and by
which they may be very quickly raised in great abundance, as
is the practice of the London gardeners, who raise great quan-
tities annually of all the capital sorts for Covent-garden, and
other markets of that city.

The operation is commonly called piping, and is performed

840

THE PLEASURE

[JUNB.

5y planting the detached top part of the young bottom shoots,
of the same year's growth, as follows : —

About the beginning or middle of this month, the plants will
have made proper shoots for this operation ; however, any
time in this month to the end of July, the pipings may be taken
off, observing you are to take only the young upper part of
each shoot ; and if the piping or cutting hath, when taken off,
two or three full joints, it is sufficient; taking them off either
with the hand, pulling the head of the shoot gently, it will rea-
dily part and come out of its socket, about the third joint from
the top ; hence it is called piping, cutting away any soft tender
part at bottom close to the joint ; or may detach them expedi-
tiously with your knife, cutting them close below a joint, with
generally about three joints to each : and then let them be
trimmed and planted as follows : —

■ Having produced a quantity of pipings as above, pull away
the lower leaves, and let the top leaves of each be cut pretty
short, evenly together, and the lower end of the piping cut to
two or three short, distinct, full joints, cutting the bottom pan
even, close to that of the lowermost joint ; they are then ready
to be immediately planted, which should be in a bed, border,
or largish wide pots, &c, of light rich mellow earth; previously
sifting, or well breaking and raking the earth very fine, and
make the surface level and smooth.

Then proceed to planting them : take the pipings one by
one between the finger and thumb, thrust them gently neat
half into the earth, or as far as the leaves, and about an inch
and half asunder, without making any previous hole, espe-
cially if the earth is fine, the pipings will readily make way for
themselves ; and as soon as a quantity is thus planted, give
directly a gentle watering to settle the earth closely about each
piping.

Then if these pipings are covered closely with hand-glasses,
it would be a great advantage in forwarding their rooting. Oi
to have some rooted as soon as possible, they may be greatly
forwarded by plunging the pots in a bark-bed of a hot-house,
&c, or other hot-bed ; covered also with hand-glasses : shaded
and watered : however, they will also root tolerably in the fuli.
air, without these assistances of glasses, &c, proper for trans-
planting in six or eight weeks.

Let them be shaded from the sun from about nine or ten in
the morning, till three or four in the afternoon : or some being
planted in a shady border will not require shading ; and the

Junk.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

341

whole must have occasional watering, just to keep the earth
moderately moist.

Thus the pipings will readily put forth roots, and advance in
growth : when give those under glasses full air ; and the whole
plenty of water : and in a month, to five, six, or eight weeks,
according where situated, as above, they will be of proper ad-
vance for transplanting into nursery-beds. — See July, &c.

Note— Pinks may also be propagated by slips of the one
year's side shoots of last summer, planted some either occasion-
ally now, or principally in March, April, May, &c, detaching
them three or four to five or six inches long ; and planted clean

down to their top leaves, and water them See the spring

months. -

TRAINING AND ORDERING FLOWER PLANTS.

Continue to support with sticks all the tall growing flower-
ing-plants, and long stragglers and climbers, according to their
growths.

This work should be duly attended to, for there is none more
necessary, in a flower-garden, than to have the general flower-
ing plants standing firmly in their places, and neatly trained in
an upright growth.

Likewise to climbing plants give proper support of sticks, &c,
for they will now require that assistance.

Go round now and then among the perennial and biennial
plants, &c; that are now flowering, and such as are still to come
into flower; and when any grow disorderly, trim and train
them to some regularity, cutting out or reducing any very rude
rambling growths, and too long straggling shoots, whereby to
continue the plants in some regular order ; detaching also
withered leaves, and decayed flower-stalks, &c. ; and let such
plants as require support have sticks, and tie them thereto in a
regular manner.

Examine such plants as branch out so as to form heads.
They should be somewhat assisted in their own way : that is,
let all shoots that rise from the main stem stragglingly near the
ground be cut off close : and any shoots from the head, that
advance in a straggling manner from all the rest, should also be
reduced to order.

Many of the larger kinds of annual plants should be treated
in that manner ; in particular the African and French marigolds,
chrysanthemums, and such other similar large plants of rude
branchy growth.

342

THE PLEASURE

[June.

For by training these kind of plants each with a short single
stem below, and cutting away any very irregular growth above,
they will form handsome full heads, and blow more agreeably
regular.

Cut down the decaying flower-stems of all such perennial
plants as are past flowering, cutting them off close to the head
of the plant, and clear the plants from dead leaves.

But where intended to save seeds from any of the seed-pro-
pagating kinds, leave, for that purpose, some of the principal
flowering stems.

CUTTING BOX EDGINGS.

Cut box edgings : the beginning or middle of the month is
the proper time to begin that work. It should be done in moist
weather, or soon after rain ; otherwise, if cut in hot dry weather,
they are apt to become brown and unsightly.

These edgings should be cut very neat, even at top, and both
sides ; and should not be suffered to grow higher than two or
three inches, nor broader than two.

Where the edgings of box are kept to near that size, they
look exceedingly neat ; but where permitted to grow four, five,
or six inches in height, and perhaps near as much in breadth,
they then have a very clumsy appearance, and make the beds
and borders appear low and hollow.

REGULATING THE FLOWER-BORDERS, &0., AND SHRUBBERIES.

The general flower-borders, beds, shrubbery-clumps, and
other ornamental compartments of flowers and shrubs, &c, in
this garden, should always be continued remarkably neat in
the best regular order ; and kept very clean from weeds, and
any disorderly growth of the plants regulated.

The above should generally be very well attended to in prin-
cipal gardens : having particular care to exterminate all weeds
in their first appearance, in any considerable growth, either by
hoe or hand occasionally, performing the hoeing on dry days,
cutting the weeds up clean within the surface ; at the same
time trim and regulate any disorderly growths in the flowering
plants, &c., then let the borders be neatly raked.

The clumps or quarters that are planted with flowering
snrubs and evergreens should also be kept exceedingly neat
and free from weeds.

Examine the evergreens and flowering shrubs : where any
have made remarkably strong disorderly shoots, they should

JtJNE.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

343

have the said shoots reduced to order, either by cutting them
close, or shortening, as it shall seem most proper, so as to
preserve a moderate regularity in the heads.

WATERINGS.

Late-planted shrubs and flowering plants should still be
now and then watered in dry weather, likewise all the new
planted annuals, and the seedling biennials and perennials
lately planted or pricked into nursery beds.

Water also, in dry weather, all the pots of carnations, pinks,
double sweet-williams, double walls, double scarlet lychnis,
lychnideas, double rockets, rose-campion, and campanulas : and
all other plants that are contained in pots.

They will want water at least three times a week, but in par-
ticular the small pots ; for these, containing but a small portion
of earth, will consequently require to be often refreshed with
water.

Likewise let the earth in the top of the pots, if inclining to
bind, be lightly loosened to a little depth ; for this will not
only appear neat, but will also encourage the plants.

Remember also to give water in dry weather to seedling
auriculas and polyanthuses, and to all other small young seed-
ling plants ; likewise to cuttings, layers, pipings, &c.

AURICULA PLANTS.

The auricula plants in pots should, where it was not done
last month, be now placed upon a shady border to remain all
summer.

The pots must, in dry weather, be often watered ; the plants
kept clean from decayed leaves, and the pots from weeds.

MOWING GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS.

Mowing of grass walks and lawns should be duly performed,
according as they want it, before the grass grows rank.

The principal garden lawns, grass plats, &c, should gene-
rally be mowed about once a week or fortnight ; and if this
be done in a complete manner, it will keep almost any compart-
ments of grass in tolerable good order.

The edges of grass walks and lawns should also be kept
trimmed in occasionally, very close and even, for this will add
greatly to the beauty and neatness of th*em ; and should be
particularly attended to in the edges of lawns, &c, immediately
adjoining gravel-walks, and principal flower borders, &c.

S44

THE NURSERY.

[JtJNU.

GRAVEL WALKS.

Gravel-walks should also, at this season, be kept extremely
neat and clean, and frequently rolled.

Let all large weeds in these walks be cleanly picked out, and
sweep the surface occasionally, to clear off all loose litter • and
let the principal walks be rolled at least once or twice a week
with an iron or stone roller. But a good iron roller for that
work is not only much easier for men to draw along, but will
also make the surface of the gravel more equally firm, and
smoother than any other.

CUTTING HEDGES, &c.

fr is now time to begin to cut hedges, &c, towards the mid-
die or latter end of this month, where it is required to have
them kept in the neatest order, as several sorts will have shot
out considerably, and want trimming ; but remarking, those
cut now will require cutting again the beginning or middle of
August—See July and August.

Therefore, to keep the principal hedges in neat, regular order
all summer, they should have a first clipping some time this
month, and a second and last cutting in August, as they will
not shoot any more, or but very little, after that time the same
year.

THE NURSERY.

INOCULATING APRICOTS, PEACHES, AND NECTARINES.

Begin to inoculate apricots, and also the early kinds of peaches
and nectarines. This work maybe begun towards the latter
and of this month.

The above trees generally succeed the best when budded
upon plum stocks, which have been previously raised from
stones of the fruit, or suckers from the roots of plum-trees; and
when they are two or three years old they will be of a right size
for budding. D

Mind that the cuttings, from which the buds are to be taken,
be cut from fruitful healthy trees, and such as shoot moderately
tree.— See Nursery next month for the method.

JcNE.]

THE NURSERY.

345

MANAGEMENT OF NEW-BUDDED AND GRAFTED TREES.

Examine the trees which were budded last summer: the
inoculation buds will now have made strong shoots, and proba-
bly some of the most vigorous will require support in their ad-
vanced growth, by the middle or latter end of this month ; or
more especially any in exposed situations.

In that case provide some straight clean sticks, about two or
three feet long ; and for dwarf-trees drive one down by each
tree that has made a vigorous shoot : or in standards, tie them
to the stem, in proper length above ; and then in both of which
tie the inoculation shoots to the stakes at two different places,
and this will prevent their being broken or separated from the
stocks by the wind.

Where it is required to have any of the above young trees
form full heads as expeditious as possible, you may now, early
in this month, to such as are intended for walls or espaliers,
pinch or prune the young shoots produced the same year, from
the inoculation bud, to four, five, or six inches, and they will
soon put forth three or four lateral shoots the same year, near
the stock, in the proper place, to commence the first formation
of wall and espalier trees ; it may also be practised occasionally
to standards.

Look also to the grafts : remove any remaining clay balls,
and loosen the bandages ; and where any have made remark-
ably vigorous shoots, of some considerable length, and seem to
need support, let some stakes be placed, as above, in the bud-
ded trees, and then let the strongest shoots be tied up neatly to
them.

INOCULATING AND. LAYING ROSES.

Inoculate roses : this is occasionally practised upon some of
the curious sorts, which do not increase freely by the more gen-
eral mode of propagating roses, by suckers from the root ; for
some sorts are often very barren of suckers, such as the moss,
provence, &c, and therefore, where an increase of such kinds
is wanted, it may be produced by inoculation ; and this is the
proper time.

They may be budded upon stocks of any common roses ; but
the best are the Frankfort and damask kinds.

Or roses of the above nature may also be occasionally pro-
pagated by layers of the present young shoots of the branches,
according to the following intimations : —

v 2

S46

THE NURSERY.

[JCNE.

PROPAGATING HARDY EXOTIC TREES, &c, BY LAYERS.

Make layers in the young wood of hard-wooded exotic trees
and shrubs, particularly the evergreen kinds, or any other that
do not root freely in the older wood.

Observing that it being the young shoots of the same sum-
mer's growth that are now to be layed, let such lower branches
of the respective tree or shrub, as are best furnished with pro-
per young wood, be bowed down gently to the ground, and se
cured there with hooked sticks ; then let all the principal young
shoots on each branch be layed about three inches deep in the
earth, leaving at least two or three inches of the top of each
shoot out of the ground.

They must be watered in dry weather, that the earth abou
the layers may be kept always a little moist in a middling de-
gree ; and many of the layers will be well rooted by Michael-
mas, and fit for transplantation.

By this practice of laying the young wood, although adopted
principally for some hard- wooded evergreens and others that do
not root freely in older shoots, &c, may also, by the same
means, propagate almost any sort of trees and shrubs : how-
ever, for the more general kinds, the common season for laying
is either in autumn, after Michaelmas, or in February or March,
choosing at these times the preceding summer's shoots.

WATERING SEEDLING PLANTS.

Give water in dry weather to the beds and pots, &c, of small
young seedling trees and shrubs.

This should be particularly practised to the seedling young
cedars, cypress, pines, firs, and junipers ; also to bays and
hollies, evergreen oaks, and arbutus ; and to all other small
evergreen seedling plants ; as also of the more curious or prin-
cipal deciduous kinds, as well as to those of the herbaceous
tribe.

In the above watering of these young plants, generally apply
it moderately, not to wash the earth away from their roots
which are yet but very small and tender. Two or three mode-
rate waterings in a week, of a morning or afternoon will be
sufficient.

SHADING SEEDLING PLANTS.

The beds of small young tender seedling plants should also
be shaded in very hot days from the sun ; but in particular the

June.]

THE NURSERY.

347

tender exotic tribe, both several of the choicer evergreens and
deciduous tree and shrub kinds, and to some of the more deli-
cate herbaceous plants.

But they must not be shaded too close, nor yet too long at a
time ; for that, in much continuance, would draw the plants up
weak and tender ; so generally give only a slight shading from
about eleven to two or three o'clock.

WEEDING AND HOEING YOUNG PLANTS, &c.

Weed also with great care the seed-beds of young plants of
every kind ; for weeds will at this time rise as fast as in April
and May, and no labour should be spared to destroy them in
time before they grow large ; but above all, in the seed-beds of
small young plants, for there they are most liable to do the
greatest damage.

Likewise now diligently destroy weeds by hoeing between the
rows of nursery trees, shrubs and other plants, in dry weather,
cutting them clean out of the ground.

WATERING AND MULCHING NEW PLANTED TREES.

W ater the choicer sorts of new planted young trees and
shrubs, that is, such as were planted late in the spring. They
should, where time would permit, be watered in dry weather
about once or twice a week.

Do not forget, however, to give water now and then to the
choicest evergreens which were transplanted in March and
April, and frequently to all plants in pots.

Likewise, let some mulch be kept upon the surface of the
ground, about the choicest kinds of rrew-planted young trees
and shrubs, where the ground lies open to the scorching sun
and drying winds; for this is certainly of very great service.
It will not only save some trouble in watering, by its preserving
the moisture longer in the earth, but it will also protect the roots
from the drying winds and sun ; by which means the plants
will be able to shoot more effectively, both at root and top in
stronger free growth.

TRANSPLANTING SEEDLING PINES AND FIRS.

In this month you may thin and transplant some of the young
pines which were raised this season from seed.

This must not be done till towards the latter end of the
month; for the plants will not be fit to bear removal till

348

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[ JnNB •

about that time, and it should be performed only in showery
weather.

The pricking out these young seedling plants at this season
is practised occasionally, both by way of thinning the seed-beds
a little, and that the pricked out plants may gain some advan-
ced growth by the end of summer.

Prepare for them some beds about three feet broad, and prick
the young plants therein about three or four inches asunder
every way, and then let them be watered.

They must be shaded from the mid-day sun till they have
taken root, which is to be done by fixing some hoops across the
bed ; and every sunny day let mats be drawn over the hoops
in the forenoon about ten o'clock, and taken off again in the
afternoon about three or four.

Where this is duly practised, the plants will soon take root ;
and those which are pricked out at this season will get strength
by Michaelmas, to enable them to endure the winter's cold
better than if they remained in the seed-bed.

But the pricking out the plants at this season is only
advised principally where the plants stand very close in the
seed-bed.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Bring out all such plants as are still remaining in the green-
house, the beginning of the month, except the more tender
succulent kinds, which generally let remain till the middle or
latter end.

When the plants are all brought out, let .them be imme-
diately cleared from dead or decayed leaves, and cut out
any casual damaged shoots or branches and dead wood, and
to give occasional regulating pruning in any very disorderly
growths.

Then let the earth in the top of all the pots be stirred ; and
where it was not done in the former months, let a little of the
earth be also now taken out of each pot, and then fill up the
pots again directly with some new compost, and give each a
little water.

When this is done let the head of each plant be immediately
watered all over, for this will cleanse the leaves and branches

J ONE.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

349

from dust, and will also refresh the plants, and make them
appear lively and more agreeable to the' sight.

MANAGEMENT OF ORANGE AND LEMON TREES WHEN BROUGHT
OUT.

Take care of the orange and lemon trees. They will be now
in bloom, and should be properly encouraged.

They should be well supplied in dry weather with water.

It should be given to these plants about three times a week
at this season in dry weather, but once every two days will not
be too much.

And to encourage these plants to shoot and flower strong, it
would be proper to bestow one or more little dressings upon
them as soon as they are brought out of the house.

That is, let the earth in the top of the tubs or pots be once
more carefully stirred up or broken, and then over this spread
a sprinkling of new mould ; when that is done, give a light wat-
ering to settle the earth again close to the roots of the plants.

CARE OF ORANGE TREES IN BLOOM.

Examine also the quantity of bloom upon the orange and
lemon trees. They sometimes produce the flowers in consider-
able clusters, much more than is proper to be left to come to
fruit ; and this may now be regulated by taking off many of the
blossoms.

But this must be done with care and regularity. In the first
place observe the condition of the tree ; and, according to its
strength, leave a greater or less number of blossoms ; but ob-
serving, at the same time, to leave a plentiful supply in moder-
ation, to have the greater chance, out of the whole, of their
setting a requisite production of fruit ; therefore, thinning the
flowers only principally where very thick or close, or in clusters,
taking out the smaller, and leaving, the most promising, strong,
larger blossoms in proper abundance" and regularity on their
respective branches to furnish a moderate plenty of good fruit
according to the different parts of the tree in some tolerable
equality in the general production ; for although the economical
value of the oranges produced in this country is of but small
consideration, they, in their different degrees of growth on the
trees are beautiful, and agreeably ornamental.

And by thus thinning the superabundant blossoms, where
considerably too numerous, will prove of greater advantage both
to the growth of the trees, and the present, and future young

350

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[June.

fruit now in embryo, to be expected from this yew's bloom ; for
by thinning the superfluous moderately in a proper degree, leav-
ing a sufficient abundance of principally the most promising
belt flowers, in some regular order, both for their ornamental
appearance in growth and good production of fruit, succeeding
their termination, the young fruit in embryo will thereby set
more kindly and regular accordingly, in a competent plentiful
production and good growth, and the trees being but moderately
loaded with flowers and a progeny of young setting fruit, they
will continue their natural growth in a free regular manner, and
thereby nourish and bring forward their general fruit, in a pro-
per regularity, in a handsome size of maturity.

The blossoms thinned off are valuable for making orange-
flower water.

SHIFTING INTO LARGER POTS.

Where any green-house plants are in want of larger pots,
hey may yet be shifted into such, this being still a proper time,
the beginning of this month to do that work.

In doing this, mind to turn the plant out of the pot with a
ball of earth entire about its roots, and then pare off any very
dry thickly matted roots round the outside of the ball, and take
away also a little of the outward loose old earth round the side,
and from the bottom ; then place the plant into the larger pot,
and fill up the pot with the new earth.

After that, give some water ; this will make the earth settle
in properly about the ball, and close it well about all the ex-
treme roots. • ■

When this is done, let the plant be removed to a shady situ-
ation, and where it is somewhat defended from strong winds.
The plants are to remain there a few weeks, and then be re-
moved to an open exposure.

WATERING THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Remember now, in dry weather, to let all the green-house
plants be properly supplied with water.

They will, in general, want water in dry weather every two
or three days; for, as their roots are all confined within the
small compass of a tub or pot, they consequently can receive
no nourishment but from the earth contained therein, it must,
therefore, be a universal rule to keep the earth in the said pots
or tubs at this season always moist.

But in very dry scorching weather, a watering once a day

, THE GREEN-HOUSE.

S51

»ill be requisite to many of the plants that are contained in
small pots particularly.

If some mowings of short grass, or some dry moss, are
spread upon the top of the earth of the tubs or pots of orange-
trees, &c, it will preserve the moisture, and defend the roots
of the plants from the sun and drying air, &c.

PLANTING CUTTINGS OF MYRTLES.

Plant cuttings and slips of myrtle ; that being the best and
most ready method to propagate these plants.

This should be done in the third or fourth week in the month ;
the shoots of the year will then, generally, be advanced to a pro-
per growth for this business.

In the first place, having either some largish wide garden-
pots, or wide earthen pans, six inches deep, with holes at bot-
tom, and fill them with good light earth ; then proceed to take
off the cuttings or slips ; choose such shoots as are about three
or four inches long ; of the best firm growth : either cutting them
off clean from the parent plant, or smaller ones slipped off neat-
ly ; pull away the under leaves, about two thirds up each shoot,
and cut even any broken or ragged part at bottom, preserving
the top entire ; then plant them in the pots one or two inches
asunder, and each cutting full two-thirds into the earth ; and let
them, as soon as planted, be lightly watered.

Then place the pots in a garden frame, and put on the glasses ;
or rather cover them down close with hand or bell-glasses, which
will more effectually forward their rooting ; shading the glasses
with a mat every sunny day, from about ten till three or four,
o'clock ; till the plants have taken root, which will be about five,
six, or eight weeks' time.

But if the pots or cuttings could be plunged in a bark-bed in
the hot-house, or in any hotbed, it would strike them consider-
ably sooner ; or also when plunged in a bark-bed, &c. ; if cover-
ed down close with a hand-glass it would promote their rooting
still more expeditiously.

Continue to give them water moderately about two or three
times a week.

When they have got root, and begin to shoot at top, take
away the glasses by degrees, that the plants may enjoy the free
air, and not draw up weak.

Any young myrtles, &c, raised last year from slips or cut-
tings, still remaining thick in the nursery pots, should early in
this month be transplanted singly, either into small pots or

352

THE GREEN HOUSE.

[June.

some planted in beds in the full ground, six or eight inches
asunder; giving the whole proper watering; they will grow
strong in handsome bushy plants by September, then all potted
off separately. — See September.

PLANTING CUTTINGS OF GERANIUMS, &c.

Plant also cuttings of geraniums ; all the shrubby sorts of
this plant may be increased by that method ; and also the Afri-
can sage-tree, amber-tree, cistuses, and many other exotic
shrubs.

The cuttings of these sorts may in some be three, tour, or
five, to six, seven, or eight inches long ; others, of small slight
shooting exotics, will not probably be more than two or three
inches, and must be detached accordingly ; plant them in pots,
each sort separately, several or many in each pot, according to
size, both of the pots and nature of the cuttings, and inserted
two-thirds their length, and directly watered; treating them
as above in the management of myrtle cuttings.

But cuttings of geraniums will also strike in a bed, border,
or pots in the natural ground shaded from the full sun, and
watered : or cuttings of these, and various other shrubby green-
house exotics, may be planted in a bed or pots of light good
earth, either under a frame and lights, glass-case, &c. ; or
covered down with hand-glasses, giving occasional waterings,
and shaded in hot sunny days, many will strike root and grow;
and in three months may be transplanted into separate pots.—
See September.

But in the whole, a slight hotbed, or the bark-bed of a hot-
house, in which to plunge the pots of cuttings, would greatly
promote their early rooting.

PROPAGATING SUCCULENT PLANTS.

Now is the time to begin to prepare to propagate succulent
plants by cuttings.

The sorts generally raised that way are euphorbmms and
ficoideses ; all the kinds of cereuses, sedums, and Indian fig,
and such like kinds.

Therefore, when it is intended to propagate any of the above
plants, or other succulent kinds, let some cuttings be now cut
off from the respective plants, two or three to five or six inches
. in length, or more, according as they may occur on the different
sorts of these kinds of exotics, in their peculiar growths ; and
as some sorts run up with tall naked stems, without branches

June.]

THE GREEN HOUSE.

353

such as torch-thistles, &c, the top is sometimes cut off for plant-
ing, and the parent plant afterwards throws out side shoots
serving for future cuttings : then observing, that as most sorts
of succulents are replete with moisture, which will flow consid-
erably at the cut part at the base of the cuttings, they should,
previously to planting, be laid upon a shelf in the green-house'
&c, a few days till the cut humid part at bottom, where sepa-
rated from the plant, is dried and healed over ; otherwise, would
be apt to rot in the earth, by the flowing moisture issuing at that
part.

In planting them, it should generally be observed, that, on
account of their succulent nature, to allot them a dry light sandy
earth, or any light soil, in pots smaller or larger, as required ;
inserting one, two, three, or several in each pot, according to
the size and nature of the cuttings.

Then either all placed in a moderate hotbed, or bark-bed ;
or some hardier sorts in a frame, under glasses, such as sedums
flcoideses, or Indian figs, &c., but the whole, and more parti-
cularly the tenderer sorts of euphorbiums, cereuses, opuntias, and
torch thistle, &c, would be greatly forwarded in rooting more
effectively sooner, by aid of a bark-bed, &c, under glasses; ob-
serving, however, where placed, to continue the whole defen-
ded with glasses from falling wet and the full external air, and
give occasional shading with mats in hot sunny days, till the
cuttings are rooted ; opening the glasses a little to give vent to
internal moist vapour ; and when the cuttings have struck, ad-
mit fresh air daily, and give a little water.

DECAYED MYRTLES.

Any myrtles, or geraniums, &c, with decayed heads, or that
have dropped their leaves, may be pruned down a little, more
or less ; and some may be turned out of the pots and plunged
into the natural ground, that they may recover sooner and more
effectually, well watered, and repotted again in autumn.

INARCHING, &c.

Inarching may still be performed upon orange trees, where
it is desired to propagate them this way.

Lemons may also be inarched now ; likewise citrons, pome-
granates, and the curious kinds of jasmines, may still be pro-
pagated by that method of grafting.

354

THE GREEN HOUSE.

[June.

LAYERS OF GREEN-HOUSE SHRUBS.

Now make layers of green-house shrubs: there are several
sorts that may still be propagated by that method ; such as
myrtles, jasmines, pomegranates, granadiles, and oleanders,
and many other shrubby kinds. .

In performing this method of propagating now may eihe
lay generally the young shoots of the same year, which will be
of proper length by the middle or end of the month, and will
tne most readily succeed; or also, occasionally, any clean-grow-
in e moderate shoots of last summer. . - . .

L™t therefore, any eligibly placed proper branches and shoots
be chosen : bow them down carefully, and let the young wood
as above be layed either in their own pots, or others placed
near and % ^-oper occasional waterings ; they will be rooted
by the end of summer for transplanting.

TRANSPLANTING SEEDLING EXOTICS.

Now transplant into separate small pots any young seedling
exotics of the green-house, early raised this year, of some ad-

~vi5th'this purpose, some small pots filled with light
mellow earth ; set one plant in each pot, and give water mo-

^TheJ in most kinds it would be of good advantage to plunge
them in a bark-bed or other hotbed, under glasses, just to run
them off a little at first ; but, in default of this, place them
either in a garden frame, glass-case or green-house, &c. ; or,
at least, in some well sheltered situation m the open ground
shading them from the full sun, and give proper air to those
under glasses, and the whole frequently watered.

ORANGE STOCKS FOR BUDDING.

Obange stocks in hot-beds, &c, drawing up to proper stems
for budding, give plenty of air daily, and proper waterings ;
and according as they advance in height near the glasses, raise
the frame five or six inches, that they may shoot freely in a
clean straight firm growth.

June.]

THE HOT HOUSE.

355

THE HOT-HOUSE.

GENERAL CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF.

The hot-house should now be particularly attended to ; the
plants will often want water ; must have also fresh air admit-
ted daily, being two very essential articles ; and still continue
the bark-bed heat, but no fires.

The pine-apple plants of mature growth, now advancing in
fruit, will want very regular attendance. These plants must
now, for one thing, be duly supplied with water ; they will, in
general, require a little every three, four, or five days ; but
make it a rule never to give them too much water at one
time.

All other plants in the hot house or stoves will also require
frequent refreshments of water at this season.

Admit also to the pines, and other plants in the hot-house,
a good share of fresh air. This must be done every warm day,
for, without a due portion of air, the pines will not nourish
their fruit well, nor the other plants be prosperous ; therefore,
in warm fine weather, about eight or nine in the morning, let
some of the glasses be opened ; that is, either draw some of
the top glasses a little down, or slide some of the upright glasses
in front a little way open, five or six inches to a foot width, or
more, according to the heat of the day.

But the glasses must all be shut close every night ; and the
proper time to shut them is about four, five, or six in the even-
ing, or earlier, if the air changes cold.

CARE OF THE SUCCESSION PINE-PLANTS.

Take care also of the succession pines : that is, the plants
which are to produce the fruit next year, and others advan-
cing in younger growth in succession to these ; all of which,
as well as the plants now in fruit, must have a due share of
attention.

These plants are sometimes placed in a detached stove or
pit by themselves. Where this is the case, mind to allow them,
every warm day, the benefit of fresh air, in the same proportion
as advised above for the fruiting plants.

356

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[July.

PINE APPLES BEGINNING TO RIPEN.

Now as some of the forwardest pine-apples will be gradually
arriving to full growth, and begin to ripen, be careful in this
to give such of the plants but very moderate waterings at that
period, as too redundant humidity would spoil the flavour of
the ripening fruit.

The maturity is discoverable by the fruit, in most sorts,
changing yellow, some of a blackish green, or dark greenish,
yellow ; and all generally imparting a fragrant odour ; being
careful at these tokens of mature growth to gather them for
use just when they attain perfection, and before they become
dead ripe, and lose much of their peculiar rich vinous flavour;
generally cutting them from the plants with about six inches of
the stalk thereto, and with the crown of leaves at top adhering,
which, when the fruit is served up to table, is then to be sepa-
rated, and returned, if wanted, for planting, as each such crown
will form a new plant, and produce fruit in two years. — See
July and August, &c.

PROPAGATING HOT-HOUSE EXOTICS.

Continue the propagation of the exotics of this department
by seed,' suckers, slips, layers, cuttings, offsets, crowns, &c,

in pots of light earth, and plunge them into the bark-bed

See April, May, and July, &c.

JULY.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN

Now prepare such pieces of ground as are vacant, in order
to receive such seeds and plants as are proper to supply the
table with necessary productions in autumn and winter ; many
crops will now require inserting, both by sowing and planting,
some for temporary succession, and others more extensive for
longer continuance, in full crops, for the above mentioned sea-
sons : and should give very diligent attention to have them
put in now in proper time, according to the directions for the
different sorts under their respective heads.

July.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

357

PLANTING SAVOYS AND CABBAGES.

Get ready, in particular, some good ground, to plant out a
principal crop of savoys and winter cabbages.

Let an open spot of ground be chosen for these plants • and
let it be properly dug, and immediately put in the plants. Lei
them be planted in rows two feet asunder, which at this season
will be room enough, except for the large kind of cabbages,
which should be planted two feet and a half distance each way
-A watering at planting will greatly promote the fresh rooting
of all these plants. 8

PLANTING BROCCOLI.

Transplant also a full crop of broccoli. The plants must
now be planted where they are to remain; and for that purpose
dig a piece of the best ground; and if previously dunged it
will be of greater advantage to this crop.

Let the plants be set in rows, allowing, at least, two feet be-
tween each row, and generally the same distance from one
another in the row. Give them water as soon as planted ;
and if the weather should prove dry, let the waterings be re-
peated once every two or three days, till the plants have all
taken root.

But for these plants, and also cabbages and savoys, and such
like kinds, if showery weather happen at this time, should be
particularly careful to take that opportunity to plant the prin-
cipal crops ; which will be an advantage to the plants, and will
save much trouble in watering.

SOWING BROCCOLI SEED.

Now sow also some broccoli seed to come in for a late spring
crop I. his is to be the last sowing, and should be done some
tune before the tenth of the month.

This seed should now be sown in a bed of rich mellow earth ;
and, in dry weather, should be now and then moderately water-
ed ; this will bring up the plants soon, and forward them in
heir growth.

The plants raised from this sowing will be ready to plant out
01 good in the middle and towards the latter end of August and
beginning of September, and will produce small heads in April,
and m the beginning of May. '

358

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[July

TRANSPLANTING ENDIVE.

Plant out now to supply the table in autumn, a parcel of the
strongest endive.

. Endive reqiires good ground ; and if dunged, it will be addi-
tional advantage ; let it be regularly digged, and the rough
surface raked even ; then put in your plants the distance of a
foot every way from one another, and water them as soon as
planted. In dry weather the waterings must be repeated once'
in two days, till the plants have taken root.

SOWING ENDIVE SEED.

Sow also some endive seed. The sowing is to raise a sup-
ply of plants for use the end of autumn, and for the principal
winter crop.

Choose principally the green curled kind for the main crop :
and may also sow some of the white curled sort, and the large
Batavia endive, observing, of the green kind particularly, that
for the greater certainty of procuring a regular supply all
winter of good endive, it will be proper to sow some seed
of that sort at two different times this month. Let some,
therefore, be sown some time between the first and tenth ;
and sow the next parcel about the eighteenth or twentieth of
the month. Dig for this purpose, a small, or moderate com-
partment of good light ground ; directly sow the seed thinly,
each sort separate, tread it down regularly, and rake it in with
an even hand. . • .

Give occasional watering, in dry weather ; this will bring up
the plants soon, and they will rise regularly.

KIDNEY-BEANS.

Plant a late crop of kidney-beans. Either the dwarf or
running kinds may still be planted, or some of both ; but most
of the dwarfs for any main crops.

' But the seed must be put into the ground the first week in
this month, particularly that designed for a full crop ; and may
plant more about the middle and latter end of the month oi the
dwarf kinds, to continue the succession of beans in gathering
till Michaelmas or longer ; as they will, in mild autumns con-
tinue till the middle or end of October ; they may be planted
in any situation where ground is vacant ; dig the ground, and

directly, when it is fresh turned up, plant the beans m rows,

the distance advised in the former months.

ifcYl] THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

359

But in planting these beans, it will now be proper to observe
the following precaution : — ■

That is, if the weather be at this time very hot, and the ground
also very dry, it will in that ease be adviseable, before the beans
are planted, either to water the drills, or lay the beans to soak in
river or pond water, about five or six hours, and then, in either
method, to be immediately planted.

But this soaking of the beans is only to be practised occa-
sionally when the ground is very dry, and also in very dry hot
weather ; otherwise, in a more moderately dry season, it is better
only to let the drills be very well watered, and then the beans
may be immediately planted, and covered in with the earth
about an inch to an inch and a half deep.

CAULIFLOWERS.

In the general crops of cauliflowers some will be still in good
perfection,, but do not require any particular care, only to break
down some of the large leaves over the advancing flower heads
to preserve them from the sun, rains, &c, close and firm, and
in their white colour, &c.

Or any late spring-planted crops, advancing ingrowth for
flowering this and next month, may be assisted by hoeing be-
tween and drawing some earth up about the stem of the
plants.

The cauliflower plants which were sown in May, for the
autumn crop, must now be planted out where they are to remain.

In planting this crop, it would be of essential advantage to
take opportunity of showery or moist weather, if such should
happen in proper time ; plant them in rows, two feet, or two
and a half asunder ; and the same distance in the row ; let
them be directly watered, and afterwards at times till they have
taken good root.

This plantation will begin to produce their heads in the be-
ginning or middle of October ; and will continue, sometimes
coming in gradually, till the middle or end of November, or till
near Christmas, if an open mild season.

SMALL SALADING.

Sow, where required, the different sorts of small salad herbs;
such as cresses, mustard, radish, &c.

Where these small herbs are daily wanted, there should, in
order to have a constant supply of such as are young, be some
seed sown at least once every six or seven days.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[July.

This seed must either still be sown in a shady border, 01
shaded from the sun; sow them in drills; and in dry weather
daily watered, otherwise the plants will not come up regularly.

ONIONS.

Sow some onions to stand the winter. This must be done
in the last week of the month, and not before.

But the principal sowing is directed in next month ; though
it is proper to sow a few now, to afford some to draw also in au-
tumn and beginning of winter ; and may sow both of the com-
mon and the Welch onion ; the latter stands the severest frost.
— See August.

For this purpose-dig a compartment of rich ground, and divide
it into beds four feet broad. Immediately sow the seed tolera-
bly thick, and let it be trod down evenly, and then raked in.
The plants will soon rise, and will get strength by Michaelmas,
to enable tbem to resist the winter's cold ; when they will be
very acceptable both to draw in autumn and winter, and in the
month of February, March, and April, to use in salads, and for
other purposes.

Mind, when the plants are come up, to let them be timely
weeded, otherwise the weeds, which will rise numerously with
the onions, would soon get the start, and destroy the whole crop

CARROTS.

In the first or second week in this month you may sow some
carrot seed, to raise some young carrots for the table in autumn
and winter.

The carrots raised from this sowing will come into use after
Michaelmas, and will be very fine in October and November,
&c, and continue good till the following spring.

Choose an open situation and light ground, which dig a pro-
per depth, and directly, while fresh turned up, let the seed be
sown moderately thick, and rake it in evenly.

When the plants are come up an inch or two high, let th'ein
be cleared and thinned to six or eight inches distance.

TRANSPLANTING CELERY.

Now is the time to plant a full crop of celery. Choose an
open plot of deep soil for this purpose ; dig out trenches about
sixteen or eighteen inches wide, and from eight to twelve inches
deep, and let the trenches be four feet apart, centre from centre.
Lay six or seven inches thick of good rotten dung in the bottom

July.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

361

and dig it in ; or if the subsoil is bad, lay a few inches of rich ve-
getable compost over the dung, lift the plants carefully with a
planting trowel, preserving a ball of earth at the root of each
plant, and plant a row along the centre of each trench about
seven or eight inches apart, plant from plant. Give a good
watering when planted, and let this be frequently repeated in
dry weather.

LANDING UP CELERY.

Land or earth up the crop of early celery planted into tren-
ches last month, or in May : break the earth moderately well
with a hoe or spade, and trim it up neatly to both sides of the
rows of plants, three or four inches high, repeating the earth-
ing at this time about once a week, to have some blanched as
early as possible. The earthing must be performed in dry
days.

TURNIPS.

The beginning and middle, or almost any time in this month,
is a fine season to sow turnips, for the service of autumn and
winter ; that is, the plants raised from this sowing will come in
for drawing in September, and improve in growth in most ex-
cellent order from about Michaelmas till Christmas, and, if a
moderate winter, will continue good till the following spring.
It will be a great advantage, if there fall some rain, to take the
opportunity of such times to sow the seed.

In sowing this seed, choose an open situation ; dig the
ground, and sow the seed while it is fresh digged ; great care
should be taken not to sow it too thick ; sow it as regularly as
possible, and take the same care in raking it into the ground.*

This seed is very small ; two or three ounces will sow ground
enough for a middling or large family; as that quantity of seed
will sow at least fifteen or sixteen rods or poles of ground : for
when sown in fields, the common allowance is about a pound,
or a pound and a quarter, or at most a pound and a half, to an
acre of ground.

Hoe the turnips which were sown in June : do this in dry
weather ; cut down all the weeds, and thin out the plants to at
least seven or eight inches distance.

* We always sow turnips in drills at twelve or fifteen inches apart, or a little
more or less according to the si'/.e the turnips are intended to be grown. They are
much more conveniently and expeditiously cleaned in this way.

Q

302

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Jl'LY.

PLANTING OUT LETTUCES.

Thin and transplant lettuces ; the Cos, Cilicia, imperial, and
all the sorts of cabbage-lettuce, and brown Dutch kinds, &c,
which were sown last month will now all want to be thinned
to a foot distance, and a quantity transplanted.

For planting lettuces, generally allot them a spot of the rich-
est ground ; dig it neatly, and let the surface be raked even ;
then put in the plants by line ; set them the distance of twelve
or fifteen inches from one another, and the same distance be-
tween the rows.

Water them as soon as planted; and at times, till they have
all taken root.

SOWING LETTUCES.

Dig also a spot of the best mellow ground, and sow some
lettuce seed, the Cos, Cilicia, imperial, large white, and the
brown Dutch cabbage-lettuces, or some of each, are still the
most proper kinds. Sow some in the first or second week, and
let some more be sown in the last week in the month.

These two sowings will raise a proper supply of good plants
to furnish the table regularly ; the latter part of August, and all
September till October, &c. >

SOWING WINTER SPINACH.

Now get ready some ground to sow some winter spinach, the
latter end of this month, or beginning of August.

The best sort to sow for this crop is the prickly-seeded or
triangular-leaved spinach ; this being generally the hardiest to
endure the cold and wet in winter. But this crop must not be
sown till the last week in the month, and even then it is only
advised where the soil is but moderately fertile, that the plants
may get strength before winter. But in warm rich ground, the
first week in August is time enough ; for, sometimes, when
sown sooner, the plants grow too rank, and run to seed the
same autumn, or early in the spring.- — -See August.

Choose for this seed a clean dry-lying compartment of good
mellow ground, that enjoys the winter's sun, and let it be neatly
digged ; and sow the seed directly, or soon after, while the
surface of the ground remains fresh, mellow, and moist ; sow-
ing it in drills twelve or fourteen inches apart, moderately thick ;
and, if dry ground, tread the seed lightly down in the earth, and
directly rake it well into the ground in the most regular manner.

July.]

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363

TURN IP- HOOTED RADISH.

Now is the very best time in the whole year to sow the laro-e
black turnip-rooted radish, for autumn and winter.

There are two sorts, one black, and the other white, and are
generally known by the name of the black and white Spanish
radish.

The black sort is in most esteem, is the best, and the most
generally known and cultivated; grows as large as ordinary tur-
nips, and very hardy to stand the winter, and is by many people
much admired, for autumn and winter, to slice in salads, or eat
alone, raw: the seed may be sown any time this month, sowing
some in the beginning of the month, for autumn ; and sow the
principal winter crop, between the tenth and twentieth ; they
should be sown in an open space of fresh digged ground broad-
cast, and trod down, and raked in regularly.

When the plants have been come up some time, they must
be hoed out to about six or eight inches distance ; they will
then have proper room to swell, and will be ready to draw for
the table in September and October, attain full growth by No-
vember, and will continue good all winter.

Sow also some small Italian turnip-radish for autumn, prin-
cipally of the white sort, and a smaller portion of the red ; and
those sown last month should now be thinned about three inches
asunder.

SOWING SHORT-TOP AND SALMON RADISHES.

Sow short-top and salmon radishes any time in the month to
draw in August, if required j but for a good autumn crop to
draw in September, sow some also of each sort in the last week
of this month ; let them all be sown in an open exposure, in
new digged ground, and raked in equally.

SOWING COLEWORTS.

This is now the time to sow a foil crop of cole worts, to serve
the family in autumn and winter, and some to stand till the
spring, when the savoys and such like greens are all consumed.

What is to be understood by coleworts is any sort of cab-
bage-plants, which, when their leaves are from about as broad
as a man's hand till they begin to cabbage, are most desirable
open greens to use under the name of coleworts.

To have good colewort plants, sow some seed of the best
sort of Yorkshire, Battersea, or sugar-loaf cabbage, and Ant-

3(J4 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [JtTLY.

werp kind : for these sorts being of a quick, close-hearting na-
ture, even in their young growth, and boil most tender and
sweet, are superior for coleworts ; the large kinds of slow-heart-
ing cabbage are improper ; and the common, open, or field cole-
worts are now banished most gardens ; and the advantage of
sowing) for this purpose, the above sorts of cabbage-seed, is,
that such plants as are not used by way of coleworts, may be
permitted to stand to cabbage ; and such of them from this sow-
ing, as do not run up to seed in the spring, will cabbage at a
very early time.

To have coleworts in plentiful succession for autumn and
winter use, sow some seed the first fortnight, and towards the
latter end of this month ; and from these sowings they will be
fit to plant out next month, for use in September, October,
November, December, &c.

But let it be observed, that for a crop of coleworts to stand
for general spring use till May or June, without running, the
seed must not be sown before the fourth week in this month,
or beginning of August, as if sown sooner they will be apt to
fly up to seed early in spring.

' As to the order of sowing and planting these different crops
of coleworts, prepare for each sowing an open spot of good
ground, and divide it into beds three or four feet wide. Sow
the seed therein moderately thick, and rake it in regularly.
The plants will come up in a week or ten days, and will be
grown pretty strong in August and September, and are then to
be transplanted. They must be planted out in rows a foot
asunder, and about six or eight inches distant from each other
in the row ; but see the work of August and September.

PULLING FULL-GROWN ONIONS.

Examine, towards the latter end of this month, the forward-
est crops of bulbing onions ; if any are at full growth, and their
leaves begin to wither, take the roots out of the ground.

But it is rare that these roots are properly bulbed enough in
full growth this month : in which case, by no means pull those
intended for long-keeping onions, but permit them to continue
in growth till August, and till the leaves begin to decay consi-
derably, if however, any happen to be fully grown by the
latter end of this month, manage them in the following manner ;
which will serve also as directions for the same work next month,
when the onions in general will be fit to draw for keeping.

These roots must be taken up in dry weather ; and as you

July.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

3G5

take them up pull off the gross part of the stalks and leaves,
only observing to leave to each onion about three or four inches
of the stalk. As soon as taken up, they should be spread to
harden upon a clean and dry spot of ground, open to the sun ;
and there let them lie a week or fortnight, remembering to turn
them once every two or three days, that they may dry and
harden regularly.

When they have lain the proper time, they must then be ga-
thered up, in a dry day, and carried into the house.

They must be laid up in a dry room ; but let them be first
well cleaned from earth and all loose outer skins, then bring
them into the house in dry weather, spread them evenly on the
floor, and let them be frequently turned over the first two or
three weeks.

Let the windows of the room be kept constantly open in dry
weather, for about a week or two after the onions are housed ;
and after that admit no more air, but keep the windows con-
stantly shut ; only observe to turn the onions over now and
then, and pick out any that are decayed. — See August.

PULLING GARLICK AND SHALLOTS, &c.

Pull up also garlick and shallots, and rocambole, when full
grown. This is known by the leaves ; for when the root is
swelled as much as it will, the leaves will then change yellow-
ish, and begin to wither and decay ; at which token of matu-
rity the roots may be pulled up.

Observing, however, to let the main crops of these bulbs,
designed for long keeping, have their full growth ; that if they
still continue growing, permit the whole to remain till next
month ; or only in the mean time, to draw some for present
supply as occasionally wanted.

MELONS.

Take care now of the melons ; and, in particular, of the
lants in frames, whose fruit is beginning to ripen.

These plants must now be allowed a large share of fresh air
every day, and occasionally shaded in hot sunny weather ; but
where the fruit is ripening give very little water, for much
moisture would spoil the flavour ; however, in very hot dry
weather, the melon plants will require to be, at times, moder-
ately watered, less or more, according to the nature and depth
of earth upon the beds.

Therefore, in watering melons, should generally have some

366

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[July

attention to the nature of the earth and general depth on the
beds ; where a competent depth of at least eight, ten, or twelve
inches of good rich substantial earth, the plants will need but
moderate watering, and should be observed accordingly where
the fruit is advancing to maturity and ripening ; especially as
the proper depth of good earth will retain the moisture of some
considerable continuance ; and the plants will fruit better, and
not at any time require so much watering, as those in a smaller
depth of earth, or that of a less substantial nature ; and the
less water there is given in moderation, on the necessary occa-
sion, the- more effectually the melons will set, and advance in
growth, and ripen with a richer flavour.

But as the melon plants in general will now require neces-
sary occasional watering, less or more every week, in warm
sunny weather, let the precaution intimated last month be ob-
served in that business.

■ Admit a large portion of air every day, by raising the glasses
behind two or three inches.

Likewise give occasional shade, in hot sunny weather, from
nine or ten to two or three o'clock.

Where any melon plants are considerably crowded with a
superabundancy of unnecessary, or useless unfruitful vine, prune
out thinningly the superfluous and unprolific, and all the small
fruitless runners ; and if the leaves are very thickly placed
darkening the fruit, cut some out also in a thinning order.

As in the frame melon plants the fruit will now be attaining
full growth, and ripening, should now be careful to cut or gather
them when of proper maturity, before too mellow ripe.

TO PROTECT MELONS FROM MUCH RAIN.

The weather sometimes happens at this season to be very
wet ; when that is the case, the melon plants should, at such
times, be occasionally protected.

The plants which are in frames can be readily sheltered, in
such weather, with the glasses : but the plants which were
planted out under hand or bell glasses are more exposed, and
cannot be so readily sheltered ; but as these plants are now
full of fruit, all possible means should be used to protect them
when the weather happens at this time to be uncommonly wet.

For the protection, therefore, of the bell or hand-glass melons,
there is nothing more effective than the oiled paper frames, such
as directed in the preceding month.

These frames are to be kept constantly over the beds j and

July.]

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367

they will not only defend the plants from cold and wet. but
when the weather happens to be very hot, they also answer the
purpose of screening the plants from the too great power of the
sun ; and at the same time admit its influence through the
pellucid oiL-d paper, both as to the light and heat in a proper
degree, to promote the growth of the plants and fruit.

But where there is not the convenience of such frames, let
some other method be practised, to defend the bell-glass melons.

For one thing, let the fruit, or at least as many of them as
are swelled, or are swelling, be covered with the bell-glasses,
that is, either move the fruit carefully under their own glasses,
or, where there are any spare glasses, let them be brought and
placed over the best fruit.

Or in default of the above conveniences to protect the hand
glass melons occasionally in very wet weather at this season,
or cold nights, &c, may arch the beds over with hoop-bends,
or any pliant rods, fixed in a low, arched form ; and then when
great rains happen, or an appearance of a cold night air, or
wet falling, draw some large thick garden mats over the arches,
or large strong canvass, such as that of old sail-cloth, and if
painted will more effectively defend the plants from wet and
cold.

But these kinds of covering of mats or canvass are only to
be used occasionally, and not to remain on longer than just to
defend the plants from heavy rains, and when there happens to
be a cold night.

CUCUMBERS.

Cucumber plants now also demand care, and none more than
those which were planted under hand or bell-glasses.

These plants will now be in full bearing, and therefore must
be well supplied in dry weather with water. They will require
.it, in a dry time, at least once every other day, and sometimes
in very hot dry weather they will require it daily, or every
morning and evening, still continuing the glasses over to defend
the head and main stems of the plants, having them raised be-
low upon props.

Likewise attend to the cucumbers in frames ; the glasses
must now either be opened considerably, or occasionally drawn
off every day in fine warm weather, according to the season ;
and in which may sometimes remain wholly off; or otherwise,
if rather unfavourable weather, or much rain, may continue
the glasses, and give plenty of free air above , and they may

868

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[July.

thus be continued either occasionally, or generally, wherebv to
preserve the plants and fruit in a free clean growth ; but in
dry weather give plentiful watering ; and when the glasses are
kept on occasionally as above, raise one end to admit a large
portion of free air to the plants.

In both the above crops of cucumbers, continue the runners
trained along in some regularity, clear away all decayed leaves ;
and where very crowded in vine or runners, cut out, in a thin-
ning manner, the most unfruitful and weakly ; and the plants
will continue fruitful till September, &c.

Continue to gather the fruit for the table of proper moderate
growth, not too large, while of a bloomy-green colour.

CUCUMBERS FOR PICKLING.

Attend also to cucumber plants which were sown or planted
in the natural ground to produce picklers.

The vines will now begin to advance, and should be laid out
in regular order ; but, where not done before, it would first
be proper, early in the month, to dig and loosen the ground
lightly between the holes of plants, not going too near to dis-
turb the roots : and, as you proceed, draw some earth between
and round the stems of the plants, in each hole, pressing it
down gently, in order to make them spread different ways,
also, to draw the earth up round each hole, to form a basin,
to contain the water when given in dry weather, and let the
runners of the plants, in advanced growth be trained out in
proper regularity.

These plants must also, in dry weather, be well supplied with
water ; which in a very hot season, will be nf issary every day.

ARTICHOKES AND CAliDOONS,

Artichokes will now be advancing fast to perfection in full-
grown heads, which, and the plants together, may be assisted
in their present and future growth, by a little occasional culture.

On this occasion, it may be proper to intimate, that if desi-
rous to have large full-sized artichokes, may to encourage the
principal top-heads, cut off most of the lower small ones, or side
suckers, in their young growth, or the size of large eggs ; and
these, in some families, are also prepared for the table — See
August.

The maturity of full grown artichokes in perfection for the
table is generally apparent by the scales of the head opening
detachedly asunder and before the flower appear in the centre.

July.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

369

Likewise, observe generally, that according as all the full-
grown artichokes on each stem are gathered for the table, to
cut or break down the stems close to the ground, which, in some
degree, encourages a bottom growth more effectually, in for-
ming strong new shoots against winter.

Where cardoons are in request at the proper season, and
where they were not planted out last month, it should now be
done the first week in this. — See June.

GATHERING SEEDS.

Gather, seeds of all sorts according as they ripen.

Let this be done always in perfect dry weather, cutting or
pulling up the stems with the seeds thereon, and dispose them
spreadingly in some airy place where the full air and power of
the sun have free access, in order to dry and harden the seed
in a proper degree : observing to turn them now and then ;
and when they have lain a few days, or a week, or fortnight,
according to the nature of the different sorts, the seed should
then be beaten out, and well cleaned from the husks and rub-
bish, and put up in boxes or bags.

LEEKS.

Transplant leeks : choose a piece of good ground, and it
will be an advantage to the plants to dig in some mellow rotten
dung.

When the ground is dug, may either proceed to plant the
leeks in continued rows ; or mark out beds four feet and a half
broad. Then draw up a quantity of leeks from the seed beds
choose the strongest plants, and trim the roots, and cut off the
tops of their leaves ; then plant them either in continued rows
nine by six inches asunder, or in beds as above, six rows in
each, and six inches distance in the rows.*

GATHERING HERBS FOR DRYING AND DISTILLING.

Gather mint and balm, pennyroyal, sweet-marjorum, as also
carduus, hyssop, sage-tops, lavender-spikes, marigolds, and
camomile flowers ; and other aromatics which are now advan-
cing towards flowering, in order to dry, to serve the family in
winter.

* We prefer planting: leeks in continued rows, twelve or fourteen inches apart,
and rive or six apart in the rows. In planting, make the holes large ; insert the
greater part of the plant into the holes, but uo not press the mould about their
ttema ; draw merely a little mould into the holes to cover their fibres. Ed.

Q 2

370

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[July.

These kinds of herbs should always be cut for the purpose of
drying when they are in the highest perfection, nearly of full
growth, and coming into flower; and some when in full flower,
as lavender, marigolds, and camomile, for their flowers only.
Let them be cut in dry weather, and spread or hung up in a dry
airy place, out of the reach of the sun, that they may dry gently.

Likewise gather spearmint, peppermint, pennyroyal, laven-
der flowers, and other herbs to distil. Many of the proper
kinds will now be arrived to full growth, and advancing into
flower ; and that is the proper time to cut all such herbs as are
intended for the purpose of distilling.

PLANTING SAGE AND SAVORY, &c.

Plant now, as soon as possible, slips of sage where it was
omitted in the former months, and also the slips of hyssop, win-
ter savory, lavender, rue, and such like herbs.

Choose such young side-shoots of the branches for slips as
are about five, six, or seven inches long, of proper strength ;
they must' be planted in a shady border, inserting them two-
thirds of their length into the earth ; give water at planting ; and
in dry weather must be often repeated.

GATHERING FLOWERS OF MEDICAL AND POT-HERBS.

Gather some camomile flowers, and the flowers of marigolds
and lavender, to lay up for the future service of the family.

Let them be gathered in a dry day, and spread to dry in a
shady place ; then put them up in paper bags ready for use, as
occasionally -wanted, also lavender-spikes for distilling, &c.

SOWING AND PLANTING PEAS AND BEANS.

Sow a moderate successional crop of peas and beans in the
beginning of this month ; and put in a smaller crop about the
middle, or towards the latter end, to try the chance of a late
crop in September, &c.

The smaller kinds are properest to sow and plant now : such
as the dwarf peas, Charlton, and golden kinds, &c., and of beans,
choose the white blossoms, long pods, small Spanish, and maza-
gan beans, and the like sorts.

Let the same methods be observed now in sowing and plant-
ing those crops as advised last month.

WATERING.

Watering should at this time he duly practised in dry wea-
ther, to all such plants as have been lately planted out, till they

July.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

371

have taken root ; likewise to seed-beds lately sown, and where
small young seedling plants are advancing.

This work should generally, at this season, in sunny weather,
be done in a morning or towards the evening. The proper
hours, in a morning, any time between sun rising and eight or
nine o'clock ; and between the hours of four and eight or nine,
in an evening ; as the watering at these times has greater effect,
by the moisture having time to settle gradually into the earth,
before much exhaled by the great power of the full mid-day
sun.

CLEARING THE GROUND.

Clear the ground now from the stalks and leaves of all such
plants as have done bearing.

In particular, clear away the stalks and leaves of the early
crop of cauliflowers, and let the ground be hoed and made per-
fectly clear from all manner of rubbish and weeds.

Likewise pull up the stalks and haum of such beans and
peas as have done bearing, and all such other plants as are past
service, clearing away also all decayed leaves of cabbages, arti-
chokes, and also such like rubbish litter, which both appear
disagreeable, and afford harbour to noxious vermin ; and let all
large weeds be at the same time cleared off the ground.

The ground will then appear neat, and will also be ready
to dig, in order to be sown or planted with autumn or winter
crops.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

WALL TREES.

In gardens where there are wall-trees that have not yet had
their summer pruning and nailing, that very needful work should
now be done in the beginning of the month ; otherwise, the
fruit upon such trees will not only be small and ill-grown, but
will also be greatly retarded in attaining proper maturity, as
well as be of very inferior flavour, in comparison with the true
flavour of these fruits.

And besides retarding the growth and debasing the taste of
the fruit, it is also detrimental, in a very great degree, to wall
and espalier trees, to neglect the summer ordering and nailing
entirely till this time ; and in particular to apricots, peaches,

372

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[July.

nectarines, and such like trees as produce their fruit principally
upon the one-year old shoots.

Besides, it causes great perplexity to the pruner to break
through and regulate such a thicket and confusion of wood ;
requires treble the pains and labour, and cannot be executed
with such accuracy as when the work is commenced early in
the summer.

There is a very great advantage in beginning betimes in the
summer to train the useful shoots in a proper direction ; and
at the same time to clear the trees from all ill-placed and luxu-
riant and superfluous shoots ; for when the useless wood is
timely cleared out, and the useful shoots laid in close and regu-
lar to the wall, the sun, air, and gentle showers, will have all
along proper access, not only to promote the growth and im-
prove the flavour of the fruit, but also to harden or ripen the
shoots properly, which is absolutely necessary to their produc-
ing good fruit and proper wood next year.

But, however, where there are wall trees still remaining un-
regulated, do not fail to let that be done in the beginning of
this month.

In doing this, observe, as is said in June, to cut out all very
luxuriant wood, foreright and other ill-placed and obviously
superfluous shoots ; but mind in particular to leave in the apri-
cot, peach, and nectarine trees, figs, morello-cherries, &c, as
many of the well-placed moderate growing shoots as can be
conveniently laid in : and let them, at the same time, be all
nailed in close and regular to the wall.

Do not shorten any of the shoots at this time, but let every
one be laid in at its proper length, where room admits.

Look also again over such wall and espalier trees as were
ordered and nailed the two last months : and see if all the pro-
per shoots which were laid in last month keep firm in their
places ; and where there are any that have been displaced, or
are loose, or project much from the wall, let them be now nail-
ed in again close in their proper position.

Likewise observe if there has been any straggling shoots
produced since last month, in places where not wanted, let
them now be displaced.

MANAGEMENT OF FIG-TREES.

Fig-trees, if not yet had the summer regulation, should be
regulated in the beginning of this month : cutting out only
fore-right, and other ill-placed shoots, and any of very rampant

July.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

373

growth ; but retain as many of the well-placed side and termi-
nal shoots as can be conveniently laid in to have plenty to
choose from in winter pruning, for next year's bearers, training
them all at their full length ; and nail the whole in close,
straight, and regular to the wall.

VINES.

A'ines should also be now looked over again, in order to
clear them from all such shoots as have been produced since
last month.

In vines, many small shoots generally rise, one mostly from
every eye of the same summer's main shoots which were laid
in a month or two ago ; and the same small shoots must
now, according as they are produced, be all displaced to
admit all possible benefit of the sun and free air to the advan-
cing fruit.

All other shoots, wherever placed, that have been lately pro-
duced, must also now be rubbed off close ; and all such shoots
as shall rise any time this month, should, according as they
come out, be continually taken off, except where any good
sizeable shoots advance in or near any vacant parts where a
supply of young wood appears necessary ; in which case it is
proper to retain them, and train them in regularly.

Where the above regulation is duly practised, the bunches
of grapes will be large and perfectly grown, and every bunch
will also ripen more regular, and much sooner than where the
vines are neglected and permitted to be overrun with useless
shoots. — See May and June.

DESTROYING WASPS AND SNAILS ON WALL-TREES.

In early wall-trees, having fruit beginning to ripen, towards
the middle or latter end of this month, hang up some phials
filled with sugared water or beer, &c, in order to catch and
destroy wasps, and other devouring insects, before they begin
to attack the choice ripening fruit.

Let at least three such phials be placed in each of the largest
trees ; and in the lesser trees not less than two ; and this would
be more particularly expedient this or next month, in the early
apricot, peach, and nectarine trees, and such like choice kinds ;
for the insects which generally begin to swarm about the ripen-
ing fruit of wall-trees, will, by the smell of the liquor be decoyed
into the phials and drowned.

The phials should be often looked over in order to empty

874

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[July.

out such insects as are from time to time catched therein.
They should also be often refilled with a fresh quantity of the
above sweetened liquor.

Continue also to destroy snails on wall-trees, &c, early in a
morning and in an evening, and after showers of rain.

These vermin do most damage to the choice wall-fruit, and
now in particular to the apricots, peaches, and nectarines ;
which trees should now be often diligently looked over, in or-
der to take and destroy them.

BUDDING FRUIT-TREES.

Budding may now be performed in apricots, peaches, and
nectarines, plums, cherries, and pears, any time in this month
in most sorts ; but the general principal budding may be per-
formed successfully any time from about the middle of this to
near that of next month at farthest.

Let every sort be budded upon its proper stock ; apricots,
peaches, and nectarines, should be budded upon plum stocks,
they generally make the strongest and most lasting trees,
when budded upon stocks raised from plum-stones; though
all these sorts will also grow upon stocks of one another,
raised from the stones of their respective fruits ; and the
peaches and nectarines succeed also upon almond stocks raised
the same way ; but the plum-stock is always preferable for the
general supply.

Pears may be budded upon pear-stocks ; and these must be
raised by sowing the kernels, as directed in the work of the
Nursery. Pears also succeed well upon quince-stocks, and are
more generally adopted, on which to bud pears to dwarf them
for wall trees, Sic.,' and will bear sooner.

Cherries are to be budded principally upon cherry-stocks,
which must be also raised by sowing the stones.

And plums should be worked principally upon stocks of their
own kind, raised from the stones of the fruit.

Such cherries, plums, or pears, as were budded last summer
or grafted in the spring, and miscarried, may now be budded
with any of the same kinds of fruit ; for these trees will succeed
either by grafting or budding.

Budding generally succeeds best when performed in cloudy
weather, or in a morning or an evening ; for the great power
of the mid-day sun is apt to dry and shrink the cuttings and
buds in some degree, that the buds would not so readily part
from the wood of their respective shoots proper for insertion.

July.]

THE PLEASURE GARDEN.

375

However, where there are large quantities to be budded, it
must be performed at all opportunities.

In performing this work, it must be observed, that where
the trees are to be raised for walls and espaliers, the budding
must be performed low in- the stock : that is, the height of five
or six inches from the ground and at five or six feet for stand-
ards: but for the method of performing this work, see the work
of the Nursery for this month.

Budding may also be performed occasionally upon trees that
bear fruit.

What is meant by this is, where there are wall or espalier
trees, that produce fruit not of the approved kinds, such trees
may now be budded with the sorts desired ; and the budding
is to be performed either upon strong shoots of the same sum-
mer, or upon clean young branches of one or two years' growth'
or more, and several buds may be inserted in each tree, in dif-
ferent parts ; by which means the wall or espalier will be soon
covered with the desired kinds, and in two or three years after
budding they will begin to bear.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN.

COCKSCOMBS, TRICOLORS, AND OTHER CURIOUS ANNUA!
PLANTS.

Bring out now the cofikscombs, tricolors, double balsams, and
all oth er curious annuals as have been kept till this time in
frames or in glass-cases.

When they are brought out, let them be immediately well
cleared from all decayed leaves ; and at the same time stir the
earth a little in the top of the pots, and then add a sprinkling
of sifted earth over it.

When this is done, let the tall growing kinds be each imme-
diately supported with a neat straight stake of a proper height,
and let the stem of the plant be tied neatly to it in different
places.

Then let every plant be immediately watered, not only in
the pots, but let the water be given all over the head of the
plants ; this will refresh them and clear their leaves from dust,
and make the plants in general have a more clean, lively

376

THE PLEASURE

[JULV

appearance ; they are then to be placed where they are to re-
main.

They must, in dry weather, be very duly supplied with water,
and this must be practised in general to all such annuals as are
planted in pots.

TRANSPLANTING ANNUALS INTO THE BORDERS, &c.

Where there are any kinds of transplanting annual plants
still remaining in the nursery-beds, &c, they should in the
beginning of the month be taken up with balls, or with as much
earth as you can about their roots, and planted in the borders or
places allotted for them to blow : observing, in this business, if
showery weather happens in the proper lime, it would be of essen-
tial advantage to take that opportunity in their transplantation.
■ Let every plant as soon as planted, be immediately watered,
and such as have long stems must be supported with stakes.

THE CARE OF CHOICE CARNATIONS.

Continue the attendance and care of the choice kinds of car-
nations to supply those in pots with proper waterings, and to
support the flower-stalks both of these and all others in general
in an upright growth.

In some choicer kinds, observe their flower pods ; and as
they begin to break for flowering, if any seem to advance irre-
gularly, they may be assisted by opening the pods a little on
the opposite side, as directed on the last month to promote the
regular spreading.

To preserve these carnations longer in beauty, they should,
when in bloom, be protected from wet and the mid-day sun,
and from the depredations of vermin, such as earwigs, &c, which
eat off the flower petals at the bottom.

The most ready method to do this, is to place the pots where
they can be occasionally shaded and sheltered ; but principally
upon some kind of elevated stand or stage, which should be a
slight wooden erection, having a platform about two feet, or
two and a half high, and wide enough to contain two or three
rows of pots ; the length in proportion to the number of pots
intended to place thereon ; and to have the top covered with
an awning supported at a convenient height to defend, but not
to hide the flowers, and constructed with small rafters, in the
manner of the roof of a house, or archway, a foot wider than
the stage, and supported upon a row of posts on each side, or
upon only one row of Dosts, erected along the middle.

July.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

377

The posts must be about two inches square, and stand about
five or six feet asunder, of proper height to support the roof
in such a manner as to defend the flowers from wet, and the
scorching heat of the sun, and at the same time to admit of
viewing them with pleasure.

The roof is, when the plants are in bloom, to be covered with
painted canvass or oiled paper j or for want of these, with
some large thick garden mats. And to prevent the approach
of creeping insects, the bottom posts are sometimes placed
through perforated, small leaden or earthen cisterns, which
being filled with water, prevent the vermin from ascending the
stage.

But in default of the opportunity of having such a stage as
above, a temporary one may be made by langing two rows of
planks, either upon short posts half a yard high, or large gar-
den pots turned the mouth downwards : and if these latter are
placed in wide earthen pans of water, it will retard the progress '
of creeping insects from ascending to the flowers.

Do not forget to refresh the pots of these carnation plants in
general with frequent waterings ; they will require some every
day or two in very hot weather.

Likewise observe to continue the flower-stalks of these plants
tied up neatly to the sticks placed for their support.

SENSITIVE PLANTS.

The sensitive plants, where any have been raised in the hot-
beds of tender annuals, should still either be continued if but
of small size, to forward their growth, or otherwise protected
under glasses, &c, whereby to preserve their sensitive property,
which is generally the most lively when kent in a hot-house.

But being raised as above, to some advanced growth, they
may, during the summer, be preserved in a green-house, glass-
case, or garden-frame under glasses ; for when full; exposed
to the open air, they lose much, of their sensation, in which
consists the principal merit of these plants, chiefly for curiosity.

These plants are singularly curious on account of their leaves
consisting each of numerous minute pinna;, which, on the least
touch, quickly contract themselves, and do not recover again in
less than an hour.

LAYING CARNATIONS AND DOUBLE SWEET- WILLI AMS.

Continue to lay carnations to propagate them ; and also
double sweet-williams.

378

THE PLEASURE

[July

This work may be performed any time in this month ; but
the sooner it is done the better ; and the same method is to be
practised now, as directed in June.

Examine the layers from time to time, and see they keep
securely in their places ; where any have started, let them be
pegged down again in their proper position.

Let them, in dry weather, be often watered ; and let this al-
ways be done with moderation.

TRANSPLANTING CARNATION LAYERS.

Take off and transplant such carnation layers as were laid
about the middle or toward the latter end of June. They will,
by trie last week in this month, be tolerably well rooted.

Let them at that time be examined, and if they have made
tolerable roots, let them be taken off with great care, cutting
them clean off to the old stool, and raise them carefully out of
the earth with as full roots as possible ; then let the lower naked
part of the stalks be cut off close to the slit rooty part of the
layer ; and cut off the tops of the leaves, and let them be im-
mediately planted.

The layers may either be planted in beds, or the choicest
kinds planted singly in small pots ; and set the pots immedi-
ately in a shady place ; and let the whole.be directly watered
and this repeated occasionally till the plants have taken fresh
root. They are to remain in growth in the beds or small pots
till October, &c, or following spring, then to be transplanted
with a ball of earth about the roots into larger pots, borders,
&c, where they are to remain to blow.

But the layers of the common kinds of carnations, should,
when taken off, be planted in beds of rich earth.

Let the beds be three or four feet wide, and rake the surface
even ; and then plant the layers in rows, about six inches
asunder, and let them be directly watered, continuing them in
this bed to get strength till October, November, or February, or
March : they are then to be taken up with balls, and planted in
the borders.

PROPAGATING PINKS BY PIPINGS.

Still may plant cuttings or pipings of pinks, &c, the begin-
ning or middle of this month for propagation, in the manner re-
lated in June, taking the young shoots of the year ; they will
yet take root freely. See June.

Jt't-Y.] «OR FLOWER GARDEN- gy<)

TRANSPLANTING PERENNIAL PLANTS.

Transplant where it was not done in June, the perennial
and biennial plants, which were sown in March, or April, &c.

The wall flowers and stock July flowers in particular, will
now want transplanting from the seed-bed, and also the sweet-
williams, columbines, Canterbury, or pyramidal bell-flowers,
with the Greek valerian, tree primrose, single scarlet lychnis,'
and rose campions ; French honeysuckles and hollyhocks, car-
nations, pinks, rockets, scabious, campanulas, and all others of
the perennial and biennial kinds.

They should now be planted in nursery beds. Prepare beds
for that purpose, three feet and a half broad ; rake the surface
even, and then immediately put in the plants, each sort sepa-
rate, five or six rows in each bed, and about six or eight inches
asunder in the row : let them be directly watered, and occa-
sionally afterwards, till they have struck good root.

Let them remain in these beds to acquire a proper growth
and strength for a final transplantation next October, Novem-
ber, or in the spring ; then taken up with balls, and planted in
the borders, or where intended ; or some of the more curious
may also be planted in pots : all of which will flower in perfec-
tion next year.

But of the stock July flowers, I would advise to plant a good
portion at once, where they are to remain in beds, borders, or
pots, as explained in June.

AURICULA PLANTS IN POTS.

Look now and then to the choice auricula plants in pots.
When dead leaves at any time appear upon the plants, let them
be immediately taken off, and let no weeds grow in the pots.

The plants will also in dry weather require to be pretty often
watered, and this must not be omitted.

Where any of the above plants furnish strong bottom offsets
from the root, they may be detached and planted in a shady
border, giving proper waterings.

TRANSPLANTING THE SEEDLING AURICULAS AND POLY-
ANTHUSES.

Transplant the seedling auriculas which were sown last au-
tumn, or early in the spring, as also the polyanthuses that were
sown in the spring season ; for it is now time to move them out
of the seed-bed.

380

THE PLEASURE [JULY.

Choose a spot for them, well defended from the mid-day sun.
Let the ground be very neatly dug ; rake the surface even, and
immediately put in the plants.

Let them be planted about four inches asunder, each way,
observing to close the earth very well about them ; and let
them be gently watered. They must after this be kept clear
from weeds, and in dry weather should be moderately watered
every two or three days during the summer season.

TAKING UP BULBOUS ROOTS.

Take up bulbous roots where necessary to be done, agreeably
to the hints given in the two former months.— Many sorts will
now be past flowering, and their leaves will be decayed, and
may then be taken up in order to separate the offsets from the
principal roots ; such as crown imperials, lilies, bulbous irises,
and narcissuses; some late tulips and hyacinths, and many
other bulbs. '

Let them be taken up in a dry time, and separating the off-
sets from the larger or parent bulbs ; some, or the whole may
occasionally either be planted again soon after this removal, of
more generally the main bulb ; and larger offsets, properly
dried, cleaned, and put up till October or November, when
the borders and beds may be more conveniently dug, and the
roots regularly planted.

The small offsets which are taken at any time from bulbous
roots, should, as many as you want, be planted by themselves
in a nurserv-bed, and there remain a year or two to gather
strength, and then are to be planted out among the other proper
roots in beds or borders.

scarlet lychnis, &c.
The double scarlet lychnis, and several other plants of the
like kind, may still be propagated by cuttings.

The cuttings must be of the youngest flower-stems, or such
as are not become hard and ligneous, and should be planted the
beginning of this month, otherwise they will not root freely :
they are now to be prepared and planted in the manner men-
tioned in the last month, and to be treated in every-respect as
there directed.

MOWING GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS.

Mow grass walks and lawns regularly in proper time, before
the grass grows very rank, performing it generally in dewy

July.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN

381

mornings, or when the grass is wet, about once a week or
fortnight, which will keep the grass mostly in tolerable good
order.

The grass walks, lawns, &c, should also be now and then
rolled, to render the surface firm and even, and is a great
addition to the general requisite neatness of all ornamental
lawns, and other grass compartments ; likewise proper rolling
also renders the grass much easier to be mown ; and with much
more exactness and expedition.

The edges of grass bounding gravel walks, shrubbery clumps,
borders, &c, should be kept trimmed in close and regular.

GRAVEL WALKS.

Gravel walks should also be kept exceedingly clean and neat.
Let no weeds grow, nor suffer any sort of litter to remain upon
them ; and let them also be duly rolled.

To keep these walks in decent order, they should, at this
season, be generally rolled at least once or twice every week.

CUTTING BOX EDGINGS.

Continue to cut or clip edgings of box where it was not done
the former month.

Let this be done in a moist time : for when box is cut in dry
hot weather, it is apt to change to a rusty brown hue, and make
a very shabby appearance ; observe in clipping these edgings
to cut them regularly even at top and both sides ; and to keep
them pretty low, and do not let them get too broad.

Never let them grow higher than about two or three inches
at most, and very little broader than two ; they will then ap-
pear neat.

CLIPPING HEDGES.

Now also clip hedges in general, if not done in June. In
doing this work, it should be observed, that such hedges as are
trimmed in the beginning of this month will most generally need
to be cut again in six weeks or two months'.time.

Therefore, when only one cutting in a season is intended., any
requisite clipping may either be performed now, any time this
nonth, or deferred until the latter end thereof, or beginning or
middle of August, according as opportunity or convenience may
suit, agreeable to the above intimations ; but where there are
regular hedges of horn-beam, elm, lime, thorn, privet, yew,
holly, or such-like edges in gardens, either by way of fence or

382

THE PLEASURE

[July.

ornament, they should, in order to keep them perfectly neat
and close, be clipped twice in the summer.

The first clipping should be performed about Midsummer,
or within a fortnight before or after that time ; and the second
should be done in the beginning or middle, or, at latest, towards
the latter end of August ; and as they will not shoot again the
same year, they will remain in close neat order till next sum-
mer.

REGULATING THE FLOWER BORDERS, SHRUBBERIES, Set.

Continue to keep proper regulation and neatness in the ge-
neral flower-borders, shrubberies, and other similar compart-
ments ; all which, at this season, should be preserved in the
completest good order.

In the general principal flower-borders, beds, &c, should have
particular attention to eradicate all weeds by hoeing or hand-
weeding, as may be convenient, in proper time, in their early
advancing growth ; and carefully adjust any irregularity and
unseemly disorder in the flower-plants ; then let the borders
and other compartments be run over with the rake neatly, clear-
ing off all the loose weeds and other rough litter ; forming a
clean even surface ; and thus the borders, &c, and their various
flowers, will have a neat orderly agreeable appearance.

The clumps and other compartments planted with flowering
shrubs and evergreens should also be kept very clean from
weeds, especially where the shrubs stand wide enough to dis-
cover the ground, which when weeds appear, should be hoed,
and then neatly raked.

Look at this time over the flowering shrubs and evergreens,
and, with a knife, let such as are grown rude be trimmed.

That is, where any shrubs have produced strong and ram-
bling shoots, so as either those of the different shrubs interfere
considerably with each other, or of any particular shrubs, ex-
tending very disorderly in a rude, rambling, or straggling
growth, let the shoots of such shrubs be now either cut out,
shortened, or reduced in some order, to continue the head
of the plant somewhat regular : and also that every shrub
may be seen distinctly, without crowding upon one another.

Continue to stake and tie up the stems of such flowering
plants as stand in need of support.

There are now many sorts that demand that care, and it
should always be done in due time before the plants are broken
by the wind, or heavy rains, or borne down by their own weight,

July.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

383

or become of any very irregular growth. And in staking or
tying up the different kinds, observe, as said in the last month
to let every stake be well proportioned to the height of the
plant it is to support ; for it looks ill to see the naked ends of
stakes or sticks standing up high above the pjants.

Observe also to let the stems of the plants be tied up in a
neat regular manner to the stakes, according to their nature of
growth : and let the tying be also done in a neat manner, not
suffering long ragged ends of the tying to hang dangling in
sight : this is often disregarded, but it has a slovenly appear-

clllCG.

Go now and then round the borders, and cut down the de-
cayed flower-stalks of such plants as are past flowering.

But this is now principally to be understood of the perennial
and biennial fibrous-rooted plants : many of these kinds will
now be gradually going out of bloom, and the flower-stalks de-
caying ; and which, according as the flower declines (except in
such where seed is wanted,) should generally be cut down close
to the head of the plant ; and, at the same time clear each plant
from decayed leaves ; and thus the plants, though past flower-
ing, will appear more lively and decent, and the advancing
flowers of others will show to greater advantage.

THE NURSERY.

BUDDING — DIRECTIONS FOR PERFORMING THAT WORK.

Bddding or inoculating trees and shrubs may now be perform-
ed in general, both upon fruit-trees, and various others occa-
sionally, to propagate their different varieties ; allotting each
sort the proper stocks on which to bud them, generally of their
own family, or nearly allied.

May now inoculate apricots, peaches', and nectarines in gene-
ral, towards the middle of the month ; and the proper stocks
on which to bud these sorts are principally those of plums, raised
most generally from the stones of the fruit, as directed in the
work of the nursery for February, March, October, and Novem-
ber, &c.; and when the stocks are in the third year's growth,
or when from about half an inch, or a little less, to about an
inch m diameter, in the place where the bud is to be inserted,
they are then of a proper size for that opsration.

384

THE NURSERY.

[July.

These stocks may also be raised occasionally by layeTS, to
obtain stocks of some particular sorts of plums, more peculiarly
favourable for some choice sorts of peaches, &c, than the chance
seedling stocks. .

And may now also bud plums, pears, and cherries ; and let
these sorts be also budded upon proper stocks.

Plums should be budded upon plum stocks, raised from the
stones. — Pears succeed best when budded' upon pear and
quince stocks, raised by sowing the kernels ; but the quince
stocks are also raised from cuttings, or by layers or suckers from
the roots of the trees.

The quince is the proper stock whereon to bud pears that are
intended to be dwarfs for walls or espaliers ; and those for full
standards should be budded on pear stocks, or upon quince
stocks for small standards, and on which they will generally
bear sooner.

In performing the operation of budding fruit-trees, regard
must be had whether the tree is intended to be a dwarf for the
wall or espalier, or for a standard ; and must be accordingly
performed lower or higher in the stock ; but remember that the
head of the stock is not now to be cut off.

Where the trees are intended for the wall or espalier, the
budding must always be done near the ground ; that is, choose
a smooth part of the stock at about the height of six or eight
inches, and in that part of the stock let the bud be inserted.

This is the proper height to bud the stocks, in order to raise
dwarf-trees, or common wall-trees, and for espaliers ; they will
then readily furnish the wall or espalier, from the very bottom,
with proper bearing wood.

But when it is intended to raise standard trees, either com-
mon detached standards or for walls, &c, the budding must be
performed higher in the stocks.

To raise full, and half standards, the stocks may be budded
at the height of three, four, or even six feet. But for this pur-
pose mind to choose stocks that are grown to a proper size, for
this must always be observed when the stocks are to be budded
at that height ; or, for dwarf standards, may bud lower in the
stocks, six to twelve or eighteen inches.

The manner of performing the work of budding, or inoculat-
ing, is this : —

In the first place, be provided with a proper budding knife,
with a flat ivory haft. The haft should be somewhat taper, and
quite thin at the end ; which knife and haft is to be used as

July.]

THE NURSERY.

385

hereafter directed ; and also provide some new bass mats for
bandages ; and let this, before you use it, be soaked in water.

In the next place, you are to provide a parcel of cuttings of
the respective trees from which you intend to take the buds ;
these cuttings must be shoots of the same summer's growth,
and must be cut from such trees as are in health, bear well,
and shoot freely, minding to choose such shoots as have mid
dling strength, and are free in their growth, but not luxuriant.

Having your cuttings, knife, bass, and every thing ready,
then proceed in the following manner : — ■

Having recourse to the proper stocks for budding, the buds
are. to be inserted into the side one on each stock, at the height
before explained ; the heads of the stocks to remain entire for
the present, and continued till next spring ; only, preparatory
to the budding, to cut away now any lateral shoots from the
stock, near where the bud is to be inserted : then, in a smooth
part of the side of the stock, with the above mentioned knife,
make a cross cut into the rind or bark quite to the firm wood ;
then from the middle of the cross cut, let another be made
downwards, about an inch and a half or two inches in length,
so that the two cuts together form a T, in which insert the bud.

Then get one of your cuttings or shoots, and take off the bud
in this manner : —

You are to begin toward the lower, or biggest end of the
shoot ; and in the first place, cut off all the leaves, but observ-
ing to leave part of the foot-stalk of each remaining j then, about
an inch below the lower bud, or eye, make a cross cut in the
shoot, almost half way through, with the knife slanting upward,
and with a clean cut bring it out about half an inch above the
eye or bud, detaching the bud with part of the bark and wood
thereto. Then immediately let that part of the wood which
was taken off with the bud be separated from the bark in. which
is contained the bud ; and this is readily done with your knife,
placing the point of it between the bark and wood at one end,
and so pull off the woody part, which will readily part from the
bark ; then quickly examine the inside to see if the internal eye
of the bud be left ; for if there appears a small hole, the eye is
gone with the wood, and is therefore useless for inoculation ;
but if there be no hole, the bud is good, and is to be immediately
inserted in the stock ; observing for the reception of the bud, to
raise gently with the haft of your knife the bark of the stock on
each side of the perpendicular slit, from the cross cut above,
and directly introduce the bud with the bark-side outward, in-

386

THE NURSERY.

[July.

serting it gently in between the bark and the wood, placing it
as smooth as possible, with the eye of the bud in the middle,
and with its central point upwards ; observing, if the bud be too
long for the incision in the stock, shorten it accordingly, when
inserted, by a clean cut of the knife, so as to make it slip in
readily, and lie perfectly close in every part.

Having thus fixed the bud, let the stock in that part be imme-
diately bound round with a string of new bass mat, beginning
a little below the cut, and proceeding upwards, drawing it closely
round to about an inch above the top of the slit ; but be sure
to miss the eye of the bud, bringing the tying close to it below
and above, only just leaving the eye of the bud open ; tying
the bandage close and neatly ; and this finishes the work for
the present.

In three weeks or a month after the inoculation is per-
formed the buds will have united with the stock, which is
discoverable by the bud appearing plump ; and those that have
not taken will appear black and decayed : therefore let the
bandages of those which have taken be loosened ; and this is
done in order to give free course to the sap, that the bud ac-
cording as it swells, may not be pinched ; for were the ban-
dages suffered to remain as first tied, they would cramp the
buds, and spoil them. To prevent this, it would be most ad-
visable to loosen them all in about three weeks, or, at farthest,
a month after budding : which concludes the work till next
March; as until which time the bud remains dormant, then it
shoots forth with vigour.

At that time, i. e. the beginning of March, you are to ob-
serve that as the heads of the stocks are still remaining, they
must then be cut down near the place of inoculation, that the
whole nourishment may go to that part, for the growth of the
advancing bud shoot to form the future tree ; therefore, obr
serving to cut down or head each stock either about a handi
breadth above the insertion of the bud ; and this part of the
stock left above, may remain till next spring ; and will serve
whereto to tie, for support, the main shoot, which the bud of
inoculation makes the first summer; or you may head the stock
down at once almost close near the bud, or but a little above,
cutting behind it in a slanting manner upward. See new-
budded trees in March, &c.

After this heading down of the stocks, the buds will soon
after push forth strongly, one shoot from each, generally ad-
vancing in strong growth, two or three feet long the same year.

July.]

THE NURSERY.

387

The most general season to bud or inoculate is from about
the beginning and middle of this month, till near the same time
in August, according to the forwardness in growth of the shoots
of the different trees you would bud from ; and this you may
always easily know by trying the buds ; and when they will
readily part from the wood, as above-mentioned in the work,
it is then the proper time to bud the several kinds of fruit,'
and other trees and shrubs that will grow by that method.

EXAMINING TREES WHICH WERE BUDDED LAST SUMMER.

Look over the trees which were budded last summer, and
let all the shoots that arise from the stock, besides the bud
shoot, be displaced ; for these would rob the proper shoot of
some nourishment.

The buds will now have made vigorous shoots ; if any seem
to require support, let them now be properly secured, either
with stakes, or tied to that part of the stock left above the bud,
when headed down.

GRAFTED TREES.

Grafted trees should also be at times looked over, in order
to displace all such shoots as are at any time produced from
the stocks, &c.

^ Examine also if any of the grafts have made such vigorous
shoots as to require support, and let them be secured.

TRANSPLANTING SEEDLING FIRS.

This is now a proper time to thin and transplant some of the
choicest kinds of seedling firs and pines.

But this 'is to be understood principally where the plants
stand very thick in the seed-bed, and it is better (though at
this season it is attended with trouble) than to suffer them all
to remain in the seed-bed till the spring, because, where they
stand very thick, they would be apt to draw, and spoil one
another.

They will succeed very well when transplanted at this time,
but require particular care to shade and water them.

Beds must be prepared for them about three or four feet
broad ; the surface must be raked even, and then put in the
plants about three or four inches apart, and let them be im-
mediately gently watered.

The plants must be" shaded every day from the sun, until
they have taken root : and this must not be omitted, otherwise

388

THE NURSERY.

[July.

the full sun would soon exhaust their essentials of vegetation ;
and let them also be duly supplied with proper waterings in dry
weather ; both till fresh-rooted, and afterwards occasionally ;
but always moderately.

They will soon take root, provided they are duly treated as
above directed ; and will get some strength by Michaelmas, to
enable them to endure the cold in winter ; and those which
remain in the seed-bed will have more room to proceed in a
stronger growth, giving them directly a good watering, as
soon as the others are thinned out, to settle the loosened
earth close about their roots; and they will be mostly of
proper growth for planting out as above, in autumn or follow-
ing spring.

But, to repeat the caution, be sure to let such seedlings as
are transplanted at this time be properly shaded from the sun,
or all will be lost.

INOCULATING AND LAYING CURIOUS SHRUBS.

Inoculate roses. This is to be understood principally of
some of the curious kinds, such as the moss Provence, and
others that seldom produce suckers, or at least but very spar-
ingly ; for it is by suckers, from the root that most of the com-
mon kinds of roses are propagated.

Therefore such kinds of roses as send up no suckers may be
propagated by inoculation, and this is the proper time.

The budding is to be performed upon stocks raised from
rose suckers that have been transplanted, from any of the com-
mon kinds.

Some sorts of roses as do not produce suckers may also be
propagated by layers which should be layed in the autumn sea-
. son ; or some of the same year's shoots may be layed at Mid-
summer and the beginning of this month ; and they will some-
times be rooted by Michaelmas.

Jasmines of some particular sorts being propagated princi-
pally by budding, such as the Italian and some other curious
kinds, may now be performed in general anytime this month;
the common white Jasmine is the proper stock upon which to
bud most of the sorts.

Some of the curious sorts of Jasmines may also be propaga-
ted by layers, but which should generally be laid in the spring,
the young branches of the last year ; or if some of the young
shoots of the same year be laid in June, and beginning of this

July.]

THE NURSERY.

385

month, they will sometimes put out the roots the same season,
well rooted by autumn.

And some of the curious sorts may also be propagated by
cuttings, particularly that called Cape Jasmine ; but these
should be planted in pots plunged in a hot-bed. This soit
must be kept in the green-house all winter.

This is also the proper time to inoculate many other curiouo
kinds of trees and shrubs, such as are occasionally propagated
by that process.

WATERING.

Watering in very dry weather must still be duly practised
in the seed-beds of trees and shrubs, &c.

These beds of the more delicate kinds of small young seed-
lings, will, in a very dry time, require to be watered, at least
once every two or three days; and it will be a great advantage
to the growth of the young plants in general ; but let the
waterings be done with moderation not to water too heavily,
or to give too much at any one time.

CLEANING AND REGULATING THE NURSERY.

Should continue proper care to keep the nursery clean and
in decent regular order : let weeds be diligently eradicated
wherever they appear in advancing growth ; and particularly in
the seed-beds of small young plants of any kind.

Nothing is so destructive in seed-beds as large weeds ; they
should be therefore always taken out with care, before they
grow to any great head ; for if permitted to grow considerably,
and continue in a large over-running growth, they will do the
young trees and shrubs of every kind more injury in two or
three weeks at this season, than they would be able to recover
in twelve months.

Let the nursery in general be kept always as clean as possi-
ble from weeds, for this will not only be an advantage to the
plants, but it also looks well to see a nursery clean.

When weeds appear between rows of transplanted trees, such
may be at all times easily and expeditiously destroyed, by ap-
plying a good sharp Dutch hoe to them in dry days.

One thing is to be particularly observed in the article of
weeds ; viz. not to suffer them in any part of the nursery to
stand to perfect their seeds, for was that permitted, the seeds
would shed upon the ground, and lay a foundation for a seven
years' crop.

390

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[July.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.

Orange and lemon-trees should now be well attended when
the weather is dry, in order to supply them with water at least
two or three times a week ; or sometimes every day in very
hot dry weather.

Where any orange and lemon trees have now a great crop of
young fruit set upon them, should be looked over with atten-
tion, in order to thin the fruit, where they are produced consi-
derably too close to one another in clusters.

In doing this, mind to thin them regularly, leaving no fruit
too near to one another in clusters ; and let the number of fruit
on the different trees be proportioned in some degree to the
particular strength and growth of each, leaving, however, a
plentiful supply in moderation ; thinning them only where in
clusters, and where very thickly set ; and generally leave the
principal supply chiefly on such shoots or branches as have ap-
parently strength enough to bring them to some tolerable pro-
per size ; and let the number of fruit on each branch be pro-
portioned accordingly, being careful to leave the forwardest,
most promising, and best placed fruit, not too many on a weak-
ly tree, and observe a proper medium in general.

Those trees which have now a sufficient quantity of fruit set
upon them may be divested of all flowers that afterwards make
their appearance, if wanted for domestic occasions, so as there
may be no unnecessary growth to exhaust the nourishment
which is now so necessary to the growth of the new-set fruit.

REFRESHING THE ORANGE AND LEMON-TREE TUBS WITH
NEW EARTH.

Where the pots or tubs of orange-trees were not lately refresh-
ed with some new earth applied to the top a small depth in the
former months, that work should now be performed ; it will be
of great" use in forwarding the growth of the new-set fruit, and
it will also greatly enliven the plants, and do them much good.

In doing this take care to loosen the earth in the top of the
pots or tubs to a little depth, and take some out ; then fill it up
again directly with fresh earth, and give it some water.

PROPAGATING VARIOUS EXOTICS BY CUTTINGS, So.

Plant cuttings or slips of myrtles, to propagate them ; also
geraniums and African sages, cistuses, and several other exotic

July.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

391

shrubs, which may be propagated by planting cuttings of the
young shoots thereof any time in this month ; but if done the
beginning of the month, there will be the greater chance of their
succeeding.

Several sorts will readily take root in common earth, without
the assistance of artificial warmth, and particularly most of the
shrubby kinds of geraniums ; but all the sorts of cuttings may
be greatly forwarded if planted in pots, and plunged in a mod-
erate hot-bed.

In choosing the cuttings, &c, let them be taken from such
trees as are healthy and strong, and shoot freely. Choose pro-
per shoots ; these should now be principally of the same sum-
mer's growth, taking them off in proper lengths, about three,
four, or five, to six or eight inches ; but the myrtle cuttings not
more than about three or four inches long ; and the geraniums
may be five, six, or eight inches.

Having procured such cuttings as above, let the leaves be
taken off more than half way up, and then plant them.

But although the above cuttings, and several others of the
iiardier sorts of green-house shrubs, will take root without the
iielp of artificial heat, and particularly, as above hinted, all the
shrubby kind of geraniums, also the myrtles, &c, which will grow
in a bed or pots of common earth ; yet, if planted in pots and
plunged in a gentle heat, either of any common hot-bed, or
the bark-bed in the stove, &c, it would greatly forward their
rooting.

However, when a hot-bed cannot be readily obtained, and
that it is intended to propagate the myrtle, geranium, or any
other of the common green-house shrubs, by cuttings, let some
wide earthen garden pans, or otherwise large pots of rich light
earth be prepared.

Into those pots let the cuttings be planted, at about two,
three, or four inches apart, according to their size of growth,
and the quantity intended of the different sorts of plants ; in-
serting each cutting two-thirds into the earth ; or small myrtle
cuttings within an inch of their tops ; others of larger sizes in-
serted with the tops, two, three, or four inches above ; but the
geraniums, and some others of similar growth, will succeed by
much larger cuttings than myrtles, and other hard-wooded
shrubby kinds.

As soon as they are planted, give a moderate watering, and
this settles the earth close about every plant.

Then immediately place the pots either in one of the common

392

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[JlILY.

garden frames, and put on the lights, or you may cover down
each pot with a hand or bell glass.

After this the cuttings are to be occasionally shaded with
single mats, in the middle of hot days when the sun shines, till
they are rooted, and must be moderately watered.

But, as before observed, the cuttings of most sorts of gerani-
ums in particular, being planted either in a shady border, or in
pots placed in a similar situation, or occasionally shaded, they
will mostly soon strike root, and grow freely at top.

It is the best method to plant the myrtles and all other cut-
tings and slips of green-house plants in pots, &c. ; and then,
if they should not happen to be well rooted before winter, the
pots with the cuttings can be moved into the green-house.

For some further particulars in planting myrtle cuttings, see
June.

PLANTING CUTTINGS, &c, OF SUCCULENT PLANTS.

This is also a proper time to plant cuttings and slips of most
kinds of succulent plants.

Particularly euphorbiums ; all the sorts of ficoideses and se-
dums, with the torch thistle : and the other kinds of cereuses,
and also the Indian fig; and many other succulent kinds.

The method of propagating these kinds of plants is easy
enough ; it is done principally by cuttings ; and the management
of them is this : —

In the first place, it will be proper to observe, that the cut-
tings of many of these kinds of plants will take root tolerably
free in a bed or pots of light compost, without the help of arti-
ficial heat ; but yet the assistance of a moderate hot-bed would
make them more certainly take root, and in a much shorter time;
either placed in a bark-bed of a hot-house, &c, or upon any
common hot-bed, either made of dung or tan-bark ; the latter
is the best; but where that is not, dung will do. Make a bed
for a frame, or some hand-glasses, and cover the dung four or
five inches deep with light earth, or with old tan-bark.

Next, let it be observed, that as many of the succulent plants
differ widely in the manner of their growth, no particular length
can be properly assigned the cuttings, but must be taken as
they can be found, from two or three to six, seven, or eight
inches in length, according to the growth of the particular plants.

Having fixed upon the cuttings, let them with a sharp knife
be separated at one cut, from the mother plant, or some sorts
slipped off, and then be immediately laid in a dry place in the

July.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

393

green-house, &c, out of the sun, till the bottom, or cut part
be dried or healed over ; because, if they were to be planted
before that was effected, the moisture from the wound would,
in the very succulent kinds, rot the cutting in that part.

When they have lain a few days, or probably, in some of the
most succulent kinds, a week or more, they will be in proper
order for planting : let some pots be filled with dry light com-
post ; this being done, plant the cuttings in the pots, several in
each of the smaller cuttings, or in some larger sorts, plant them
singly in small pots, and close the earth well about them.

Then immediately plunge the pots to their rims, either in
the hot-house bark-bed, or in a common hot-bed, under the
glasses, and shade them with mats, in the middle of sunny days,
till the cuttings are rooted, and give now and then a little water!

But as, in default of a hot-bed, many of the green-house
succulent cuttings will take root in any common light earth,
they may either be planted in such, or in pots, plunging these
into the earth, and cover them either with hand-glasses, or a
frame and glasses, managing them as above.

Likewise suckers of succulent exotics may be planted now,
such as those of aloes and many other sorts, in pots of light
soil ; watered and placed in a shady situation till they strike
fresh root.

WATERING AND CLEANING THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

In dry weather, the green-house plants in general should be
very duly supplied with water; as the earth in the pots, &c,
will now dry very fast, and require to be often moistened.

Some of these plants will require a little water, in dry wea-
ther every day ; particularly the plants in small pots. Others
will need a refreshment every other day ; and some once in
three or four days, according to the size of the different pots or
tubs, and as they are less or more exposed to the sun. Let
them, therefore, be looked over every day, and let such as want
water be accordingly supplied with that article.

But let this be now particularly observed in such places where
the plants are exposed to the full sun; for in such a situation
the plants will want to be very often watered, or mostly every
day when very hot weather.

Let the plants be cleared from decayed leaves ; and let all
the pots and tubs be also kept always very clean and neat, clear-
ing away all rising weeds, and any sorts of loose litter ; and
loosen and freshen the surface of the earth in the pots, &c.
n 2

394

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[July,

SHIFTING INTO LARGER POTS.

Where any of the green-house plants, young or old, are in
want of larger pots, they must still be removed into such.

In performing this operation, mind to take the plant out of
the present pot, with the ball entire ; and then, with a sharp
knife, pare off any decayed or dry matted roots on the sides and
bottom of the ball of earth ; and at the same time take away a
little of the outward old earth, both from the sides and bottom
of the ball.

The ball being thus trimmed, set the plant immediately in
the larger pot, and fill up all around with some fresh earth, and
then give some water.

The pots are then to be removed to a somewhat shady situ-
ation, not immediately under trees, &c, but where the plants
may enjoy the free air above, and umbrous protection from the
sun in the great heat of the day ; and supply them with proper
waterings.

LOOSENING AND GIVING SOME FRESH EARTH TO THE POTS
IN GENERAL.

At this time it will be proper to examine the earth in all the
pots and tubs ; and where it is inclinable to bind, let the sur-
face be carefully loosened to a little depth, breaking the earth
small with the hand ; and add, at the same time, if not lately
done in any of the preceding months, a little sprinkling ol fresh
earth, and then lay the surface smooth.

This little dressing will do the plants, at this time, more good
than many people might think ; but in particular to such plants
as are in small pots.

But this might now be practised on all the pots and tubs in
general, and it would very much refresh all the different sorts
of plants, and have a neat appearance of good culture.

PROPAGATING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS BY LAYERS.

This is still a proper time to make layers of many kinds of
shrubby exotics of the green-house. Let it be observed it is
the shoots of the summer's growth that are the most proper
parts to lay now.

Many sorts may be propagated by that method, and a trial
may now be made on such kinds as you desire to increase ; but
let it be done in the beginning of the month.

By that method you may propagate myrtles, jasmines, pome-
granates, oleanders, granadillas, and such like shrubs

J ULY,]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

a 9 5

BUDDING ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.

About the middle, or towards the latter end of this month
you may begin to bud orange and lemon trees.

These trees are propagated by inoculating them upon stocks
raised from the kernels of their fruit procured in the spring ;
and such as are found in rotten fruit are as good as any for this
purpose.

These kernels must be sown in the spring (that is, in March
or April), in pots of rich earth ; then, in order to forward the
vegetation of the seed, that the plants may soon come up, and
advance in a clean free growth several inches high the same
year, it is advisable to have the pots plunged in a hot-bed ; and
in two, three, or four weeks at farthest, the plants will come up,
when they must be allowed some air and water at times ; in six
weeks or two months after the plants are up, they may be trans-
planted singly into small pots, or may remain till next spring,
if very small, and not growing very thick together.

They must be planted singly, into halfpenny or three farth-
ing pots, at the same time giving them sdfne water ; the said
pots are to be plunged into a new hot-bed, observing to give
air by raising the glasses behind, and shade them in the middle
of sunny days ; the glasses are to be kept over them constantly,
till about the first or second week in August ; but observing as
the plants rise in height, to raise the frame, that they may have
full liberty to shoot ; but in August, as above said, they are to
be exposed by degrees to the open air ; this must be done by
raising the glasses to a good height, and afterwards taking them
quite away.

With this management, you may raise them to the height of
eighteen or twenty inches (especially the second year), by the
middle of August they must be removed into the green-house
about a week or ten days before Michaelmas, placing them near
the windows, and there to remain all winter.

Then in the spring (that is, about March or April), it will
be of much advantage to shift them into large pots ; then to
plunge the pots in a gentle hot-bed managed as above, it would
bring them forward greatly ; but observing to begin in the lat-
ter end of May to harden them to the air, and to let them en-
joy the free air more fully in June and July; and then exposed
wholly thereto in August, that they may harden in a proper
degree before winter.

The young plants, thus managed, will in the second or tliird

396

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[July.

summer, be fit to be inoculated, which must be in the third or
fourth week in July, or first week in August ; at the time of
budding it will be proper to take them into a green-house, or
where they can be defended from too much rain, and enjoy the
light, and plenty of air. When in the green-house, &c, it will
be proper to turn that side of the plants wherein the bud is
inserted from the sun j and, when the sun shines freely upon
the plants, it will be proper to screen them with mats during
the greatest heat.

But in order to make the buds take more freely, you may
plunge the pots into a moderate hot-bed of tanner's bark a fort-
night or three weeks, made in a glass-case, or green-house, or
any deep bark pit which can be occasionally defended at top
with glasses, giving plenty of free air ; but removing them out
of the bark-bed, after remaining therein the above time.

The plants must be kept in the green-house all winter ; but
in spring, about the month of March or April, it would be of
essential advantage to prepare a moderate hot-bed, in a glass-
case, made with tan-bark, if it can be had ; if not, a bed of hot
dung, and lay some earth, or rather tan thereon, to plunge the
pots in : into either of these beds, the pots are to be plunged ;
observing at this time, to cut the head of the stock off two or
three inches above the bud. In this bed they must be well
supplied with water, and fresh air admitted every day, by rais-
ing or sliding some of the glasses a little way open. By the
middle or latter end of July, the buds will have made shoots
perhaps a foot or eighteen inches, and sometimes two feet long,
or more ; at which time you must allow them more and more
free air every day ; and so begin in August to expose them
fully, to harden them, so as to be able to stand in the green-
house all winter among the other plants.

Any young orange or lemon-trees, or other foreign trees or
shrubby plants from Italy, &c, that were planted in the spring,
and plunged in a tan-bed in a glass-case, &c, to forward their
rooting, and production of top shoots, should now have a large
portion of free air admitted, frequently watered, and in very
hot sunny days be moderately shaded.

July.]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

397

THE HOT-HOUSE.

Every calm and clear day, admit air freely into the hot-
house.

For now, as the pine-apples in particular will begin to ripen,
fresh air is a very necessary article. This is needful to im-
prove the flavour of the ripening fruit, and also to promote the
growth of those which are still swelling, and will prove mate-
rially beneficial to the exotics in general of this department.
So that at this season, let the glasses be drawn open some
considerable width, increasing the portion of air as the heat of
the day advances.

The pines must also, in general, be very duly supplied with
water. They will need it pretty often, but let moderation be
at all times observed.

But in particular, such plants whose fruit is beginning to
ripen must be very sparingly watered ; but it will, notwithstand-
ing, be proper to allow them some, though too much would
very much debase the flavour of the fruit.

OF PROPAGATING THE PINE-APPLE PLANTS.

Pine-apple plants are propagated both by planting the crown
or head of leaves which grow on the top of the fruit, the suck-
ers at its base, and by suckers from the root of the old plants.
Either or all of those methods are equally eligible ; each fruit
rn apple produces at top one crown or head, and sometimes se-
veral small suckers at its base ; and the old plants mostly, always
furnish a supply of bottom suckers ; all which productions, be-
ing detached and planted, take root freely, become the proper
successional plants, and in two years will produce fruit in full
perfection ; and at the same time a progeny of crowns and
suckers, as above, for a further succession to succeed the old
plants, which never produce fruit but once.

These several productions for propagation, either the crowns
at the top of the fruit, suckers at bottom, or suckers from the
old plants, are generally fit to take off for planting when the fruit
is ripe ; and those annexed to the fruit are to be separated at
the time the fruit is served at table, especially the crowns, and
reserved for the purpose of propagation, managing them as
hereafter directed : and the suckers arising immediately from
the plants may he taken off any time when they are arrived at

THE HOT-HOUSE.

the proper state of growth ; which, like those on the fruit, is
also commonly about the time the fruit has attained to its due
perfection of ripeness, or very soon after ; they being generally,
arrived to the due maturity, to be separated from the mother
plant, when they are about four or five, to six or seven inches
long, and their lower part assumes somewhat of a brown colour.

But observing, that in consequence of any of the old fruiting
plants not furnishing bottom suckers, or that the suckers are
very small, and that it is required to have as large a supply of
young plants as possible, you may, as soon as the fruit is cut,
take up the pots of such plants out of the bark-yard, cut down
the leaves, to six inches at the bottom, pull off also the under
leaves round the bottom of the plant, and then take a little of
the old earth from the top of the pot, fill it up again with some
fresh compost, and give some water. Then replunge them in a
tan-bark or dung hot-bed, where there is a tolerable brisk heat ;
and, from time to time, moderately watered.

The old plants, with this management, will soon put out
some good suckers ; and when they are grown to the length
of about four, five, or six inches, they are then to be taken off
from the mother plant, and prepared for planting.

The management of the suckers in general, as also of the
crowns, with respect to the purpose of propagation and order
of planting, to furnish a succession of new plants, is as follows : — ■

The crowns which arise upon the top of the fruit and any
suckers at the base, are to be taken off when the fruit is served
at table, separated by a gentle twist : then, if wanted for pro-
pagation, returned to the gardener's care to prepare for plant-
ing, taking off some of the lower leaves towards the rooting
part ; and then lay the plants on a shelf, either in a green-
house, or shady part of the stove, or that of some dry room, till
the part that adhered to the fruit is perfectly healed, which is
generally effected in a few days, and are then to be planted as
below.

The root-suckers should be taken from the old plants, when
he lower end changes somewhat brown, and take off some of
•heir under leaves ; then lay them in a dry place till the part
that joined to the plant is healed and become dry and firm,
which will require five or six days.

They are then, both crowns and suckers, to be planted in the
following manner : —

Being furnished with some small pots, and having some pro-
per compost previously prepared, of light rich garden earth,

JlILV.1

THE HOT-HOUSE.

399

mellow surface loam, and rotten dung, having been all well in-
corporated together, fill the pots therewith ; which done, let
one crown or sucker be planted into each pot, fix it properly,
and let the earth be well closed, and give each a very little
water, just to settle the earth equally about the bottom of the
plants.

Then let the pots be directly plunged to their rims in the
bark-bed, which should be of a tolerable good heat to make
them strike.

But for want of conveniences for a bark-bed, you may make
a hot-bed of new horse dung to strike the suckers and crowns,
and it is a very good method.

This bed should be made for one, two, or more garden
frames, according to the number of plants. The bed must be
made at least two feet and a half, or three feet high of dung j
and as soon as it is made put on the frame ; and in five or six
days, or at least when the burning heat is over, lay in as much
tan-bark, either new or old, or any kind of dry earth, but tan
is preferable, as will cover the bed all over, about five or six
inches thick.

Then when the dung has warmed the bark or earth, and
having planted the crowns and suckers accordingly, let the pots
be plunged in it to their rims, and put on the glasses, observ-
ing to raise them a little every day, to let out the steam and
to admit air, and shade them from the mid-day sun ; and give
occasional moderate waterings.

They will thus soon emit radical fibres, strike root in the
earth, and advance in growth.

CARE OF RIPE PINE-APPLES, AND THE CROWNS OF THEM, FOR
PLANTING.

As the pine-apples will now ripen apace, care should be had
to gather them when in due perfection, and before too ripe ;
generally cutting them in a morning ; each with several inches
of the stalk, and with the crown of leaves at top, till served at
table.

Observe, however, when the pine-apple is to be eaten,
that as the crown of leaves which grows at top, and any
young suckers at the base, being proper for propagating
the plants, when taken from the fruit, they, if particularly
wanted for increase, should be saved in proper care, in order
for planting.

These generally make strong and healthy plants; but before

400

THE HOT-HOUSE.

LJULY

the crowns, &c, are planted, let them, as soon as taken from
the fruit, be laid in a shady place, in the stove, or green-house,
&ci, till the bottom is quite dry, and then planted singly in
small pots, and treated as directed above in the general man-
agement of the crowns and suckers.

SHIFTING THE SUCCESSION PINE-APPLE PLANTS.

Now shift the pines which are to produce fruit next season
into the pots where they are to remain.

But this need not be done till the last week in the month ;
or may, with equal propriety be deferred till the beginning of
August : however, if thought convenient, the first-mentioned
time, let the pots, and a proper quantity of new compost, be
provided, and brought to the place where the plants are : then
having all things ready, let the pots with the plants be taken
up out of the bark-bed, and let them be shifted according to
the following method : — ■

In the first place put some compost into each new pot, to
the depth of two, three, or four inches. Then let each plant
be taken out of its present pot, with the ball, if possible, entire,
and place it immediately into the larger pot, and fill up round
the ball with more of the compost, and let the top of the ball
be also covered therewith an inch deep.

In this manner let the whole be shifted, and let them be im-
mediately gently watered, and then plunge them directly again
into the bark-bed.

But the bark-bed must be first stirred up with a fork to the
bottom to revive the declining heat ; and at the same time ob-
serving, that if the bark is much wasted, or is become very
earthy, and not likely to produce a due warmth, you should
add about one-third, or at least one-fourth of new bark or tan,
which should be previously provided in proper time accord-
ingly ; removing some of the most earthy parts of the old at
top of the bed, throw in the new tan'; fork up the old and
new well together ; and then let the pots be plunged to their
rims, and let them be placed in a regular manner ; that is,
place the largest plants in the back row, and so on to the low-
ast in front.

Likewise, as above, the younger succession pines may also
be occasionally shifted into larger pots. See August.

Aug.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

401

CARE OF HOT-HOUSE PLANTS IN GENERAL.

Let the general care both of the pines and all the other ten-
der exotics of the stove or hot-house be continued, as in the
two former months ; giving a large portion of fresh air daily,
and frequent waterings, &c.

Continue also to propagate, by cuttings, layers, and suckers,
such plants as you would increase, plunging the pots thereof
in the bark-bed.

AUGUST.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
WINTER SPINACH.

Now prepare some good ground, where it was not done last
month, to sow a full crop of winter spinach ; and for early and
general spring supply.

This must be done some time in the first or second week in
the month, not later ; though in a warm-lying rich ground, it
would be time enough to sow in the second week ; however,
at any rate do not omit sowing at the above proper time, that
the plants may attain an eligible good growth before winter ;
but if sown much sooner in rich ground, they are apt to get
rank, and sometimes fly up to seed before that season, or early
in spring. Choose a piece of rich mellow ground for this crop,
that lies tolerably dry in winter, and open to the winter sun ;
let this be neatly dug, and immediately sow the seed in shallow
drills twelve inches apart, and tread it down evenly, and then
rake the ground.

Observe, it is the prickly-seeded, or triangular leaved kind
that is to be sown now, for plants of this sort will best endure
the cold and wet in winter.

When the plants are come up, and got leaves an inch broad,
or but little more, they must then be thinned and cleared from
weeds. This may be done either by hand or small hoeing,
observing to thin the plants regularly, leaving them the distance
of three or four inches from one another ; they will then have
proper room to grow stocky, and to spread and gather strength,

402

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Al'Q.

to be able to endure the cold. Besides, when spinach is allow-
ed room to spread regularly, the plants will produce large and
thick leaves.

This crop will produce leaves for gathering the same year in
October, November, and during the winter, in open weather,
and all the spring months till May.

SOWING CABBAGE SEED.

Sow early and other cabbage seed, to produce plants for the
service of next summer. Also sow the large autumn kinds to
succeed the summer crops, and for autumn and winter supply
the following year.

The proper early sorts to sow now, are the early dwarf, early
and large sugar-loaf, and Yorkshire kinds, and the early Batter-
sea, and the Antwerp cabbage, &c. See the Catalogue.

But this early seed must not be sown until some time be-
tween the 6th and the 12th of the month ; nor must it be sown
later, there being an advantage in sowing it just at that time ;
for was the seed to be sown sooner, many of the plants would
be apt to run to seed in March ; and was it to be sown later
in the month, the plants would not get proper strength before
winter.

Therefore, at the time mentioned, dig an open spot of rich
ground, and mark out beds, three feet six inches broad, then
sow the seed moderately thick, each sort separately, and imme-
diately rake it in with a light and even hand.

Sow also the seed of the large oblong hollow, large round,
the drum, or large flat-headed cabbage, the long-sided, and
other large late kinds, in the beginning of the month, for a full
crop of large cabbages, both to succeed the early and succes-
sional months' crops of the smaller kinds next summer and for
general autumn service this time twelvemonth, and for several
months after.

But the seed of the large late kinds may be sown three or
four days sooner than the Yorkshire and other early kinds of
cabbages, as they are not so apt to run to seed in the spring,
&c. — See the Kitchen Garden Catalogue.

Sow also red cabbage, to raise plants for cabbaging in full
growth next year in autumn.

Likewise, for winter or spring coleworts, it will now be pro-
per to sow some seed of the sugar-loaf and Yorkshire cabbage,
at the time above-mentioned. See Coleworts.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

403

BROCCOLI.

Prepare some ground in the beginning of this month to plant
out a successional crop of broccoli for winter and next spring
supply. An open quarter, not shaded by trees, should be cho-
sen ; and spread some rotten dung over the piece, and dig it in
regularly a moderate spade deep ; and this will be of great ad-
vantage to the plants. v

These plants are now to be planted in rows two feet asun-
der ; and allow the same distance between plant and plant in
the row, and give each plant a little water, repeating it two or
three times in dry weather to forward their rooting, that they
may acquire a large growth before winter ; and they will pro-
duce fine large heads accordingly, some in winter, but in greater
perfection in the spring.

Draw the earth about the stems of the broccoli which were
planted out last month,; for this will strengthen the plants, and
promote their growth.

SAVOYS.

Finish planting savoys the beginning and middle of this month.
Plant them in rows two feet asunder, and set the plants at the
same distance from one another in the row. This plantation
will come in at a good time, will be handsomely cabbaged in
November, December, &c, and the plants will continue in excel-
lent order to supply the table till after Christmas.

SOWING WINTER AND SPRING ONIONS.

Get ready some ground, where it was not done last month,
to sow a good crop of winter and spring onions.

This being the most eligible season to sow the general crop
to draw in young growth for winter and spring service, and some
for early heading summer onions, must be done in the first, but
at farthest the second week in the month ; and for that purpose
choose a clean dry lying spot ; and when the ground is digged,
mark out beds three feet and a half, or four feet broad ; then sow
the seed tolerably thick, in a regular manner ; then tread it in,
and rake, the ground evenly, that the seed may be equally cov-
ered, and the plants rise regularly in every part of the beds.

The plants from this sowing will supply the table with young
onions the early part of winter and all the spring, for salads and
other uses, and continue till April or May ; and if you let some
of them stand till June, they will bulb and grow to a tolerable

40-t

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

size, but will soon after run up into stalks for seed ; so that in
their bulbing growth are principally for present use in that sea-
son, as they are not proper for keeping onions.

Sow also some Welch onions, both as substitutes in case the
others should be destroyed by the frost, and to have a more
certain plentiful supply ; for the Welch onions will survive al-
most the severest winter ; notwithstanding their blades will
sometimes die down to the ground in November, or December,
the roots remain sound, and new leaves will sprout up again
in about six weeks or two months after the others are de-
cayed.

Let this sort be also sown in beds as directed above, for it is
the best method ; then a person can stand in the alleys and read-
ily weed and clean the plants without treading upon them.

These Welch onions never bulb at the roots ; but as they
are so very hardy as to resist the hardest frost when the com-
mon onions would be all killed, it is therefore advisable to sow
a few of them every year at this time, as they will be found to
be very useful to draw for young ciboules in the months of
March, April, and May, and even continue till the spring-sown
onions come in.

But it is advisable also, to sow a portion of each sort about
the middle, or towards the latter end of the month, for late sup-
ply in the spring, as they will not run so soon to seed in that
season as the others.

SOWING CARROT SEED.

Carrot seed may now be sown in a moderate portion, to raise
some plants to stand through the winter for spring use ; sow
some in the first week, but let a farther supply for the main
spring crop be sown in the second or third week in this month.
The plants raised from these sowings will supply the table at
an acceptable time the succeeding spring.

Let this seed be now sown in beds of light mellow earth.
Do not sow it too thick, and take care to rake it in regularly.

SOWING RADISH SEED.

Radish seed may be sown twice this month to raise a suc-
cession of plants for autumn service. Sow it in an open spot ;
and in dry weather let the ground be sometimes watered. If
you sow this seed in the beginning of the month, the plants
will be ready about the beginning and middle of September ;
and that sown about the middle, or towards the latter end would

Aug.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

405

be fit to draw towards Michaelmas, and will continue tolerably-
good all October.

The proper sorts of the common radish to sow at this time,
for autumn crops, are the salmon or scarlet kind, and the short
top radish ; but prefer most of the former at this season.

Sow also some of the small white Italian turnip-rooted radish,
or likewise some of the red sort, both to come in next month,
when they will make a pretty variety at table, and eat very
agreeable in salads or alone. Also in the beginning of the
month you may sow a crop of black Spanish turnip radish for
autumn and winter.

SOWING CAULIFLOWER SEED.

Cauliflower seed should be sown towards the latter end of
this month, to raise some plants to stand over the winter in young
growth, to produce the early and general crop next summer.

The proper time to sow the seed is some time between the
eighteenth and twenty-fourth of the month ; and it must not be
sown sooner than that time, otherwise the plants will be apt to
button (as it is called) or flower, in winter, or early in the spring,
in their infant state, in which the flowers never exceed the size
of an ordinary button, and thereby you are disappointed of hav-
ing an early crop in full growth at the proper season ; or if sown
later the plants will not acquire a proper strength to resist the
winter's frost ; therefore mark the above time : but the London
gardeners, who raise prodigious quantities for public supply,
generally sow their main crop on a particular day (the twenty-
first of this month), having from long experience proved that to
be the most eligible period of sowing this crop of cauliflowers
for next summer's general supply.

But in order to have a more certain crop and regular supply
of cauliflowers, it will be proper to sow some seed at two different
times this month.

The first and main sowing must be at the time above men
tioned ; and the general rule is to allow the distance of three or
four days between the first and second sowing.

The first sown plants are principally for the earliest and first
general crop, and a quantity of which should be planted out for
good, in the latter end of October, under bell or hand-glasses.
Some of the same plants should also, at that time, be pricked
thick in garden frames, to be defended occasionally from frost,
&c, all winter with glasses, for final transplantation in th"»
spring; or, in want of frames, fee., a parcel may be planted or

406

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Aug.

pricked close under a south wall, ihree or four inches asunder,
to remain and take their chance, without any other shelter dur-
ing the winter, for spring transplanting, as aforesaid ; and they
will sometimes stand it tolerably well : but, if you choose it,
you may also at that time plant a parcel of the first sown plants
in a bed or border, and arch it over with hoops, in order to be
occasionally sheltered in bad weather with mats, till transplant-
ing time next spring.

But the cauliflower plants raised from the second sowing are
also proposed to be wintered in garden frames, or under occa-
sional protection of mats, or in warm borders, all principally for
spring transplanting into the open ground in March and the
beginning of April, to furnish a successional general crop, See
October and November.

But let it be observed, that if you have no bell or hand-glasses,
or that you do not intend to plant out any plants under such
glasses in October, as above, but that you either intend or are
necessitated to winter them all in frames, or on warm borders,
you, in that case, need make but one sowing, which should be,
as before said, some time between the eighteenth and twenty-
fourth of the month.

But here it will be proper to set down in what manner the
olants, both from the first and second sowing, provided you sow
twice, should be managed until they are fit to be transplanted
into the beds or places where they are to remain all winter.
And, to begin with the seed : — •

The seed is to be sown as above directed, either all at once,
or at two different times, as you shall think necessary, accord-
ing to the above intimations; observing at the proper time to
let a small spot of clean rich ground be neatly dug, and mark
out a bed three feet and a half broad, immediately sow the seed,
and rake it in with particular care ; or otherwise, you may first
rake the surface smooth, and with the back of the rake shove
the earth evenly'off the surface of the bed, half an inch deep,
into the opposite alley, in a ridge along the edge of the bed ;
then sow the seed, and with the rake, teeth downward, in its
proper position, draw the earth on the bed with a kind of jerk,
making it spread evenly over the seed : or in another method
of sowing, the bed, when digged, being just raked smooth, sow
the seed, and sift over it about a quarter of an inch depth of
light earth. In dry weather let the beds be from time to time
moderately watered, and lightly shaded in hot sunny days ; this

Aug.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

407

will make the plants come up soon, they will rise equally, and
all take a regular growth.

When the plants are come up, continue "n dry weather to
water the bed moderately, at least every two days.

Then, about the twentieth, or some time between the twenty-
fifth and latter end of next month, the plants should be pricked
out from the seed-bed : at that time let another rich spot be
dug for them in a sheltered situation ; and mark out a bed the
same breadth as above : into this bed the plants are at that time
to be pricked about two or three inches apart, and shaded from
the sun, and occasionally watered, till rooted.

But in pricking out these plants from the seed-bed, especi-
ally those designed for planting out finally, under hand-glasses
in October, that if they are now rather of a tardy small growth,
it would be eligible, where convenient, to prick some of them
in a slender hot-bed, to bring them on forwarder, of proper size
and strength by the above mentioned time, that they may be
more effectually able to resist the cold in winter.

This bed need not be made above fifteen or eighteen inches
thick of dung ; lay the thickness of six inches of earth all over
the surface and put in the plants as above.

In either of the above beds, the plants are to remain until
the last week in October, or the first week in November, and
then to be transplanted into the proper places to stand the winter.

The first sown plants in particular, or, if you have but one
sowing, the largest of these are at that time to be planted out
for good in rows, and covered with bell or square hand-glasses,
observing to place three or four of the strongest plants under
each glass : the glasses to stand three feet distance from one
another, and the rows four feet asunder.

But if you desire to make the most advantage of the above
glasses, you may plant four or five plants or more, under each ;
and in the spring thin out the worst, leaving but one, or at
most two, of the strong plants under each glass ; and those that
are thinned out are to be planted in another spo in the open
ground, as directed in February and March.

The plants intended to be wintered in frames, may be plant-
ed or pricked at once from the seed-bed into beds for the winter,
to be covered with frames, &c, setting the plants three inches
asunder, or previously pricked into nursery beds, the same dis-
tance in which to grow in strength till the end of October, or
first week in November, and then to be transplanted into their
winter quarters, in four feet wide beds of light rich earth, :n a

408

THE KITCHEN GARDEN'.

[AtTO.

sunny situation, setting the plants three inches apart; and one
or more frames, according to the length of the bed, placed there-
on, to be protected occasionally with glasses, as before suggested,
and as directed below, and in the winter months : or observe,
that if the plants are at that time rather backward in their growth,
it would be proper to make a slender hot-bed for them in the
following manner : —

A place is to be prepared for the bed, where the plants may
have the full winter sun.

Let a trench be dug about six inches deep, and the breadth
of a common cucumber or melon frame, and the length of one,
two, or more frames, according to the quantity of plants.

Then get some new hot dung, and with this let a bed be
made in the above trench, making it about eighteen inches thick
of dung, and set on the frame, and earth the bed the depth of
five or six inches with rich light earth, and here the plants are
to be set in rows from the back to the front of the frame, three
inches distance ; and as soon as planted let them be moderately
watered.

Then put on the glasses ; but leave them open about a
hand's breadth, that the steam which the dung will occasion
may freely pass away ; and when the plants have taken root,
let the lights be taken quite off every mild dry day.

The plants, with the assistance of the above slight hot-bed,
will soon take root, and, if they are small, will forward them
greatly, so as to acquire a due degree of strength before the
time of the severe weather begins.

They are to remain in this bed all winter ; for the heat is
only intended to strike the plants and set them agoing at first ;
for it will not last above a fortnight.

Although I have mentioned the planting the above plants on
a moderate hot-bed, yet where the plants are tolerably forward
in their growth, they will not need that assistance, and may be
planted at once in a bed of natural earth, defended as above,
with a frame and glasses, setting the plants the above-mention-
ed distance, moderately watered at planting : continuing the
glasses till the plants strike root, then to have the free air in
mild dry days, and afterwards managed as hinted below, and in
the winter months as aforesaid.

In one or other of these beds, the plants are to remain all
winter ; and are, during that time, to be defended in rainy and
severe weather, by putting on the glasses ; but in mild and dry-
days no covering must be over plants ; they must have the free

Aug.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

409

air at all such times, and are to continue with this management
till the latter end of February, or beginning or some time in
March, or some occasionally till the beginning of April, if a
cold backward spring, and according to the state of growth of
the plants, then to be transplanted into the quarters of the
kitchen garden.

Or, for want of a sufficiency of frames and lights, or that
of garden hand-glasses, the cauliflower plants are sometimes
preserved through the winter in tolerably good condition, in a
bed of common earth, under occasional protection of an awning
of large garden mats, &c. : the bed being in a warm dry situ-
ation, and cradled or arched over with hoop bends, or pliant
rods, to support the said covering, drawing the mats over in
time of excessive rains, frosty and snowy weather ; or also, in
severe frosts, an additional covering of long straw-litter over
the mats.

And may also often preserve these plants over winter, by
planting them in a border close under a warm south wall,
pricking them three or four inches asunder, and planted out
finally in the spring.

For their further general management, see September, Octo-
ber, November, December, &c.

ASPARAGUS.

Let the plantations of asparagus be well cleared, and kept
at this time perfectly free from weeds ; in particular that which
was planted in beds last March or April.

Also let the seeding asparagus, which was sown in the
spring, be kept very clean ; and this must be done by a very
careful hand-weeding.

CELERY.

Transplant now a principal crop of celery into trenches for
blanching ; let an open quarter of good ground be chosen ;
mark out the trenches, and prepare them in the manner direct-
ed' in the last two months ; and selecting some strong stocky
plants, trim off any long straggling tops of the leaves and the
end of the roots, and then plant one row in each trench.^

Observe to set the plants six or seven inches distant in the
row.

Immediately after they are planted, let them be watered ; and,
if the weather should prove dry, the waterings must be repeated
duly every other evening until the plants have taken root.

410

THE KITCHEN GARDEN,

[Aug.

Continue to earth up the former planted celery, according
as the plants advance in height, which should now be pro-
perly attended to in those planted in trenches the two last
months.

Let this be done in dry weather, and when the plants are
also dry : let the earth be well broken, and lay it up lightly to
the plants ; observe to earth them up a due height on each
side ; take particular care not to break down their leaves, and
also not to bury the hearts of these plants.

Let the landing up these plants be now repeated once a week
or fortnight, according as they shoot in height.

ARTICHOKE PLANTS.

Examine now the artichoke plants, both of the old planta-
tions, and those planted last March or April.

Many of these plants will now be in fruit : and besides the
principal or top fruit, there will sometimes rise several small
lateral heads or suckers from the sides of the stems ; but in
order to encourage the principal heads to grow to a large size,
most of these small side shoots may now, as intimated last
month, be displaced.

This practice is necessary, if you prefer one large handsome
head to three or four small ones ; but when you practise this,
the suckers or side heads should always be taken off before
they exceed the size of a common large egg ; and these, in
some families, are used in culinary preparations for the table...

These the gardeners about London call suckers ; they gather
them as above, and tie them in bunches, and carry them to
market, where they have a ready call for them, in that of Co-
vent- Garden and Spitalflelds, &c.

Though some persons, less anxious about the size of the
main heads, permit the laterals to remain to advance to full
growth in succession.

Remember, as said last month, to break down the steins of
the artichokes, as soon as you cut the fruit.

SMALL SALAD SEED.

Continue to sow, in succession, several sorts of small salad
seeds ; such as mustard, cresses, radish, rape, and turnip.

When a constant supply of these is wanted, there should
be some seed of this kind sown once every week or fort-
night.

Let them be sown in a shady border, or where they may be

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

ill

occasionally shaded with mats, from the mid-day sun, till the
plants come up : draw flat shallow drills, sow the seeds pretty
thick, and cover them about a quarter of an inch ; in dry wea-
ther they must be duly watered.

SOWING LETTUCE-SEED, AND ORDER OF TRANSPLANTING.

Sow lettuce-seed, at two different times this month, for use
both this autumn, and the following winter and spring.

The principal sorts of sowing now are the green and white
Cos lettuce, Cilicia, imperial, brown Dutch, common, white, and
hardy green cabbage lettuce ; but you may also sow some of
any of the other kinds. See the Catalogue.

The first sowing is to be performed some time before the
tenth of the month, and is to raise plants for supplying the table
in September, October, and November, &c; the second sowing
must be done some time between the fifteenth and twenty-first
of the month ; and the plants raised from this sowing are some
to be planted out in September and October, for winter supply ;
and in others, such as Cilicia, brown Dutch, common white,
and hardy green cabbage lettuce, some may be both transplant-
ed into beds or borders, and a principal supply remain where
sown and thinned moderately, to cut for use, thinningly, as
wanted in winter or spring ; and a good quantity of the Cos
and other lettuces to be planted out in September and October
upon warm borders, in order to stand the winter, to supply the
table next March, April, and May.

Jjet each sort of this seed be sown separate; take care to
rake it evenly ; and in dry weather it will be proper to water
the bed or border now and then where the seed is sown.

Or some of the plants raised from both the first and second
sowing, particularly the brown Dutch and common cabbage
lettuce, &c, may in October and November be planted in shal-
low frames, to forward them for winter service, in which season
they must be covered every night, and in all wet, or other bad
and cold weather, with the glasses, and in hard frosts they must
also have a thick covering of dry litter (such as straw or fern)
laid over the glasses, and about the outside of the frames. If
thus properly managed, some will be tolerably well cabbaged
in small heads in December, January, and February ; at which
time they will be highly acceptable.

But if in October or November some stout plants of lettuce
are transplanted from the open ground with balls of earth to
their roots, in a bed of rich earth under frames, &c., or some

412

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Aus.

into a moderate hot-bed defended with a frame and glass as
above, it will forward them to a handsome size in winter.

However the principal supply of plants raised from the above
sowings are designed chiefly to remain in the open borders,
beds, &c, for their general uses as above. — See September,
October, and November.

PLANTING LETTUCES OF LAST MONTH'S SOWING.

Plant out a quantity of the different sorts of lettuce, which
were sown last month, to supply the table in autumn. See
September and October, &e.

Let these have an open free situation ; dig the ground, and
while fresh turned up, put in the plants directly, or as soon
after as possible, in this hot season, in rows twelve inches
asunder : give them directly a little water ; and in dry weather
they must be watered as occasion requires, till they have taken
root.

FENNEL, CARDUUS, AND ANGELICA.

Aboot the middle of this month you may sow seeds of fennel,
carduus, and angelica.

The seeds which are sown now are to raise plants for the
next year's use ; and by sowing them at this season they will
come up stronger in the spring ; though they will also grow
very well by a spring sowing in February or March, &c.

CARE OF THE GENERAL CROPS.

Take care now of the general crops, to give them necessary
culture of hoeing and hand-weeding, so as to eradicate weeds
from among them in every part effectually, in proper time before
the weeds are much advanced, and that none stand to seed.

This should be well observed in every part of the ground ;
not only among all the crops, but also in vacant pieces of ground;
for weeds are not only hurtful to all crops, but exhausting to
the soil and unsightly to appearance ; and every weed that is
suffered to stand to scatter its seeds upon the ground lays the
foundation of hundreds for the year to come ; therefore every
opportunity should be taken to destroy them before they arrive
to that maturity.

This is easily done among all wide standing crops, where
room for the hoe ; taking advantage of dry days and with a
sharp hoe, a person may soon run over a great deal of ground ;
and the hoeing also, by loosening the surface, is beneficial to

Aug.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

413

the plants, and it, both among crops and vacant parts, improves
the fertility of the soil.

But among all those crops that do not admit the hoe give
the most careful attention to exterminate weeds timely by hand-
weeding, before they overrun the plants, and require double
labour to clear them out effectually.

Generally, let all large seedy weeds, that have been hoed or
pulled up, be raked up and cleared away, that they may be
root again, perfect their seeds, and scatter them on the ground

TRANSPLANTING AND SOWING ENDIVE.

Plant another parcel of endive, principally of the green curl-
ed, for the main crop ; also some Batavia endive. Choose an
open situation, and let it be properly dug ; then draw out of
the seed-bed some of the strongest plants, trim the extreme
end of their roots, and weak straggling tops of the leaves, and
then plant them twelve inches each way from one another.

Water them as soon as planted ; -and in dry weather let the
waterings be repeated once every two or three days, until the
plants have taken root.

The endive, , which was planted out in June and July, will, in
this month, be full grown, and the plants should be tied up to
promote their blanching.

Choose a dry day to do this work ; then get some fresh bass,
or slender osier twigs, examine the plants, and let a parcel of
the largest full-hearted be tied up in a proper manner ; observ-
ing to gather the leaves up regularly in the hand ; and then
with a piece of the bass, &c, tie them together in a neat man-
ner, a little above the middle ; but do not tie them too tight.

Sow some green curled endive the beginning of this month,
to plant out the middle and end of September, and in October
for a late spring crop.

EARTHING UP CARDOONS.

The cardoons which were planted out in June will now be
arrived to some considerable height ; and it will be proper to
begin to tie up some, and land up some earth round the plants,
in order to blanch or whiten them, and render the stalks of the
leaves crisp, tender, and mild tasted for use ; and, as they rise
in height, let the earthing be accordingly repeated.

Tor their further management, see September and October.

4H

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Al'G.

BULBING KEEPING ONIONS.

Examine the main crops of bulbing onions, they will now in
general be fully bulbed towards the middle of this month ; when
their stalks and leaves begin to fall and wither, the roots have
had their full growth, and must then be taken up. Let this be
done in dry weather ; immediately spread the roots to dry, and
manage them as directed last month.

GARLIC AND SHALLOTS.

Garlic and shallots must also be taken up as soon as they
have had their proper growth. This is also known by their
leaves, which, when the roots have done drawing nourishment,
will begin to.wither.

HERBS TO DISTIL AND DRY.

Gather herbs to distil, such as spearmint, peppermint,
pennyroyal, &c. This must be done now the beginning of the
month, before the stalks and leaves grow too old and juiceless ;
they being in best condition for this purpose just as they are
coming into flower, because they are then just in their prime.

Gather also herbs to dry, to serve the family in winter ; such
as mint, balm, pennyroyal, sweet marjorum, and other aroma-
tics, now at full growth. They should be cut in a dry day and
spread to dry in an airy room : but lay them out of the reach of
the sun. When properly dried, tie them in bunches, and hang
them up in a dry room for use as occasionally wanted.

SOWING COLEWORTS.

Where it was omitted last month, you should now sow York-
shire, or Battersea and sugar-loaf cabbage seed for coleworts.

Or likewise where any was sown last month, it is proper to sow
some more now, both for proper succession in winter, and to
remain in good perfection all the spring season without running
to seed ; as sometimes those sown sooner are, many of them,
apt to fly up to seed in March, and April : but the plants from
this sowing will stand, advance to proper growth, both for spring
coleworts, and early summer cabbages.

But this must be done in the beginning, or before the middle
of the month, otherwise the plants will not get strength for gen-
eral transplanting in any tolerable time before winter; and will
serve both for the supply of the ensuing winter and spring.
See July.

Aug.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN,

•» 15

TRANSPLANTING COLEWORTS.

Examine the colewort plants which were sown in July : let
them be looked over about the middle, or towards the latter
end of this month ; and see where the plants stand very thick,
to let some be drawn out regularly, and plant them out finally
into open compartments.

Let them be planted in rows, fifteen inches asunder; and set
the plants eight or ten inches distant in the row.

By this practice, the plants remaining in the seed-beds will
have more room to grow to a proper size for planting out in
general next month; and those which are now transplanted will
come into use three or four weeks sooner than the plants which
are left in the seed-bed until September. — See July and next
month.

PROPAGATING AROMATIC PLANTS.

Propagate, where wanted, the different sorts of aromatic
plants ; the slips or cuttings of the branch shoots of many sorts
may still be planted, and will grow but where any admit of
slipping from the bottom with roots, it will be more successful.

Particularly the slips of sage, hyssop, winter savory, and
marjoram, will still succeed, but must be planted in the begin-
ning of the month. Let the slips or cuttings be about five, six,
or seven inches long, planted in a shady border, and in dry
weather duly water them, and may also plant in the beginning
of the month slips of lavender, rue, rosemary, wormwood, and
southernwood. — 'See May, June, and July.

But in procuring branch slips or cuttings of the above aro-
matics, examine also below, as you will sometimes find shoots
arising from or near the roots of the main plants, where they
have been planted pretty low, that their branches touch the
ground ; and if any such bottom shoots could be slipped off
with roots, it would, at this time, be a particular advantage.

Cuttings also of the young shoots, from six or eight, to ten
inches long, may be planted in a shady border, and occasionally
watered.

MANAGEMENT OF AROMATIC PLANTS.

Now, in the beginning of this month, it will be proper to cut
down the decayed flower-stems of many kinds of aromatic plants,
such as hyssop, savory, sage, lavender, and all other such like
kinds.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[AtTO.

At the same time it will be proper to shorten all the strag-
gling young shoots, in order to keep the plants within due com-
pass, which will also make them produce numbers of new short
shoots ; and they will, by that means, form close snug heads
before winter. •

But this work should, if possible, be done in a moist time ;
and with a knife let the decayed flower-stems, and the long
weak straggling shoots or branches, be trimmed pretty close.

The plants, after this, will soon begin to put out new shoots,
in a close; bushy growth ; and these will get strength, and make
the plants appear neat all winter.

GATHERING SEEDS.

Gather seeds in due time, according as they ripen : many
sorts will now attain maturity, such as cabbage, savoys, broc-
coli, borecole, turnips, spinach, and various others.

Let this be done in dry days, cutting, or pulling up the seed-
stalks, place them in the full sun, against a hedge or wall, &c,
that the seed may dry and harden properly ; or spread some
upon mats or large cloths, in order to protect or remove them
more conveniently, if possible, from rain, if it should happen,
and let the whole be frequently turned : then after having lain
a week or a fortnight, or as long as necessary, let the seeds be
thrashed or rubbed out, and well cleaned.

Then spread the seed thin upon cloths, in a dry place ; where
let it lie a day or two to harden it properly : it is then to be
put up in bags or boxes.

SOWING CORN-SALAD AND CHERVIL.

This is now a good time to sow the seeds of com salad, or
otherwise lamb lettuce, for winter and spring service ; and also
the seeds of chervil for the same occasion.

Both these plants will come up the same autumn, and are
very hardy, and will be fit for use all winter and the spring sea-
son ; when some more seed of each sort should be sown to suc-
ceed the autumn sown plants ; which in both sorts are always
to remain where sown : and if they come up too thick let them
be thinned out to three or four inches apart.

The lamb lettuce or corn salad, being hardy to stand the
winter, is commonly used for winter and early spring salads,
both in composition with common lettuce, &c, and as a substi-
tute for those where deficient ; and the chervil, both for salads,
and soups, &c.

Aug.!

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

417

Sow each sort separate : and the seeds of both sorts may
either be sown in drills, or broad cast, and raked in.

RIPENING MELONS.

Take particular care now of the ripening melons : if there
should at this time happen to be much rain, the roots of the
plants, and all the best fruit, must be well defended from it ;
and this is to be done by the methods proposed for their pro-
tection last month.

In hot dry weather give the advancing succession crops of
melons occasional waterings : observe as in June and July.

CUCUMBER PLANTS.

Cucumber plants also demand good attention at this time ;
particularly the crops which were sown or planted in the open
ground, to produce fruit to pickle, &c.

These plants must, in dry weather, be remarkably well sup-
plied with water, at least three or four times a week. Let them
not want for moisture in dry hot weather, and the plants will
not fail to produce fruit abundantly : generally commence fruit-
ing for gathering in the beginning, but in full bearing towards
the middle of the month, and continue till about the same time
in September, then mostly decline in production, both in quan-
tity and quality of the fruit.

Let the plants be also looked over in a regular manner, two
or three times in a week, in order to gather a sufficiency of the
young fruit according as it becomes fit for the purpose of pick-
ling • for when once the fruit have come to the proper pickling
size, they will soon grow too large for that use.

Likewise let the cucumbers of the frames, and bell or hand-
glass crops be also supplied plentifully, with water, and they
will continue bearing good fruit till the middle of next month.

May now sow a few long prickly cucumbers in small pots,
and protected occasionally under glasses, to plant into a hot-
bed the end of this, or beginning of next month, under a frame
and lights, to produce fruit in October and November ; or for
the same occasion may plant cuttings, or make layers of young
shoots of some present bearing plants. — See Sejitember.

SOWING TURNIPS.

This is still a proper time to sow turnips for a late crop.
But let the seed, if possible, be sown in the first or second week
in the month, and, there will be no fear of success ; but I
would not advise to sow later than the second week, as the

418

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[AlTO.

crop which is sown after that time seldom succeeds well in re-
speot to the growth of the roots, which would be very late and
of but small size.

In sowing the seed, take opportunity, if possible, of moist
weather, or while the ground is fresh digged, sowing moderate-
ly thin, and rake it in regularly.

Hoe and thin the turnips which were sown last month ; in
which take advantage of dry days ; and let it be done before
the plants are too far advanced in their growth : generally when
the rough leaves are about the breadth of a man's thumb; then
the work can be done with expedition and regularity.

Let the plants be thinned out to the distance of about six or
eight inches.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

VINES.

Look over vines again, both in those against walls and in vine-
yards, and let them be once more cleared from all useless pro-
ductions. All shoots whatever that have been lately produced
either from the old or young wood must now be entirely dis-
placed ; for such are quite useless ; and if left, would darken
the fruit very much, and greatly retard its growth and ripening:
therefore let all such shoots be rubbed off quite close.

Examine also, at the same time, with good attention, all the '
bearing and other proper shoots ; and where any have started
from their places, let them be immediately fastened close to
the wall, or stakes, in their proper direction, that every shoot
and bunch of fruit may have an equal advantage of sun and
air to forward their growth and good maturity in best perfec-
tion.

Likewise examine the fruit ; and where any bunches of
grapes are entangled in each other, or with the shoots, let
them be relieved, so that every bunch may hang in its proper
position.

You may now, if you choose it, in the beginning of this
month, top all the snoots that have fruit on them, and all
others that have advanced above the top of the wall, or any
way beyond their due bounds.

Aifi.i

THE FRUIT WARDEN.

413

THE VINEYARD.

Give now every possible assistance to forward and improve
the production of the vineyard, by clearing the vines from all
useless shoots, as above, and to train the others along neatly,
in close regular order, whereby to admit the influence of the
full sun equally regular to the whole, which is essentially
necessary to promote the free growth and timely ripening of
the grapes.

And should also diligently exterminate all weeds effectually
between the rows ; cutting them down in their early growth ;
and afterwards rake the ground, clearing away all the loose
weeds and rubbishy litter, forming in the whole a clean smooth
surface.

For, in vineyards, a clean surface answers, in a great degree,
the purpose of a wall, by returning the sun's heat upon the
vines and fruit, that the grapes will ripen sooner ; and acquire
a rich flavour.

WALL-TREES.

Wall-trees still demand attention ; particularly peaches,
nectarines, and such like kinds.

Let them be once more carefully looked over, and see whe-
ther all the branches and shoots remain secure in their proper
places. Where any have been displaced by winds or other
accidents, let them be nailed up again in a secure and neat
manner ; and where any of the shoots are loose, or project
considerably from the wall, or have extended in length, let the
whole be nailed in close and securely.

To have the shoots all lay close and regular to the wall is a
very great advantage to the fruit; and besides it is beneficial
to the trees and always looks decent and agreeable.

Likewise observe, at the same time, where any straggling
shoots have been lately produced, and let all such be now taken
off, that there may be no useless wood to darken the ripening
fruit too much from the sun.

CLEARING THE BORDERS ABOUT FRUIT-TREES.

Let all the fruit-tree borders be now kept remarkably clean;
let no weeds grow, nor suffer any kind of litter to remain upon
them.

By keeping these borders neat, it is not only agreeable, in
the greatest degree, to the eye, but a clean smooth surface

420

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Aug.

throws up a reflection of the sun's heat, in some degree, on the
trees, which certainly greatly promotes the ripening, and im-
proves the flavour of the fruit.

FIG-TREES.

Take care of fig-trees : . the figs will now be full grown,
and will begin to ripen, and therefore require a due share
of sun to promote their ripening, and to give them their true
flavour.

All the strong shoots must therefore be now laid in close to
the wall ; but take care to use the knife on these trees but
very little at this time. Cut off no shoots but such as grow
directly fore right on the front of the branches ; lay in all the
fair-growing side-shoots, and leading or terminal shoots of the
general branches ; for these young shoots that are now laid in
are to bear the fruit to be expected next year ; and therefore,
as these trees produce their fruit upon none but the year-old
shoots, be careful to leave enough at this time to have a plen-
tiful choice ; for what is not wanted to lay in at the general
season of pruning can at that time be easily cut away.

But, whatever you do, be sure not to shorten any of the
shoots, but lay in every one at full length ; for the shoots of
these trees must never be shortened, because they are the only
bearing wood for next year ; and as they bear principally to-
wards their upper ends, shortening would destroy the best
fruitful parts thereof, and throw them into a redundancy of
useless wood the following summer.

Observe to lay them in regularly, not across one another,
and then let them be well secured, for the wind and rain has
great power over these trees on account of their broad leaves.

NEW BUDDED TREES AND BUDDING.

Go over the stocks or trees which were budded in July, and
let all the bandages be loosened.

This should generally be done in about three weeks, but
never exceed a month, after the budding is performed ; other-
wise, as the inoculation bud will swell, the sap will be stopped
in its regular course, and the parts about the bud will be pinch-
ed, and swell irregularly.

Likewise in trees budded last year, now advancing in their
first shoot, examine that part of the stock below the inocula.-
tion ; and where there are any shoots sent forth in that place,
let them be taken off close.

Aug.!

THE PLEASURE GARDEN.

421

Budding may still be performed, and will be successful in
most sorts of stone fruit, as peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums,
&c; but this must be done in the beginning, and not later than
the middle of this month. — See the Nursery and Fruit- Gar-
den for July.

DEFENDING WALL-FRUIT FROM INSECTS, &c.

Continue to defend the choice wall-fruit from insects and
birds.

Birds are to be kept off by fixing up nets before the trees of
such fruit as they would eat. This is a sure defence against
those devourers ; therefore it will be well worth while for such
persons as have nets to fix them up before some of the choicest
fruit, particularly grapes, figs, and late cherries.

Wasps and flies are also to be guarded against, for these in-
sects will devour or spoil the most delicate fruit at a surprising
rate, and, if not prevented, make great havock.

The only method to prevent this is to continue to place baits
in different parts of the trees to catch them ; that is, have a
quantity of large phials filled with sugared or honey water, or
beer, &c, as advised last month, and hang three or four in each
of the principal trees ; this will greatly protect the fruit : for
the sweetness of the liquor will entice the insects to neglect the
fruit, and they will continually hover about the mouth of the
phials ; numbers will daily creep in to drink ; and, when once
they enter, not one in a hundred can get out again.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN,

WATERING AND GENERAL CARE OF ANNUAL PLANTS.

Take care now of the annual plants in pots ; they must in dry
weather be well supplied with water ; let them be watered at
least three or four times a week ; but in very hot dry weather
they will need watering every day.

Likewise continue to support such annuals as require it with
handsome stakes, or sticks, and let the stalks or stems of the
plants be neatly tied to them according as they advance in
height.

Where large decayed leaves appear on these plants, let their:

422

THE PLEASURE

IAcg.

be immediately taken off, for nothing looks worse; trim or
regulate any disorderly growths ; and keep the plants always
clear from weeds, and pull up decayed flowers.

WATERING AND GENERAL CARE OF PERENNIAL PLANTS IN
POTS.

In dry weather give water also pretty often to all the peren-
nial flower-plants in pots.

But trns must be done in general ; that is, those plants
which are past flowering will want water as well as those which
are now blowing, and such as are still to bloom.

Take care now of all such perennial plants in pots as have
done blowing ; let the flower-stalks, when the flowers decay,
be immediately cut down ; loosen the earth in the top of the
pots ; take some out, replace it with the same quantity of new •,
give a little water, and then set the pots in a shady border for
the remainder of the summer.

PROPAGATING FIBROUS-ROOTED PERENNIAL PLANTS.

Now is the proper time to increase many of the double-flow-
ered and other desirable fibrous-rooted perennial plants done
flowering, by slipping and parting the roots : and the proper
time to begin to do it is about the middle or towards the latter
end of the month.

Many sorts may now be increased by that method ; particu-
larly the double rose campion and catchfly, double scarlet lychnis,
and double rocket : also the double ragged robin,- bachelor's
button, gentianella, polyanthuses, auriculas, double daisies, large
heart's-ease, campanula, and several other such like kinds of
fibrous-rooted perennials.

The method is this ; where the plants have grown into large
tufts, let the whole of each root be taken up entirely out of the
earth, then let it be parted, or divided into as many separate
plants as you shall see convenient, but not into very small sets :
but in parting them, take care to do it in such a manner as
every plant or slip so separated may be properly furnished with
roots.

When the root is thus parted into several slips or distinct
plants, let every such slip or plant be trimmed, by cutting off
any straggling or broken parts of the roots, pick off any dead
or broken leaves, and trim the other parts as you shall see
necessary, and then plant them.

Or others may be occasionally slipped as they remain in the

Aug.]

OR FLO WEB GARDEN".

423

ground, by detaching the outside offsets, with roots to each as
aoove.

They, in the whole, by either of the above methods, should
generally be planted in a shady border, or where they can be
occasionally shaded with mats in hot sunny days, till they have
taken root. Let them be set about six inches apart, close the
earth well about them, and give some water; and let the
watering be occasionally repeated, till the plants are fresh-rooted,
and during the summer.

These will all take root in a short time, get strength, and
make tolerably good plants by the latter end of October and
November ; at that time, or in the spring, they may be taken
up with balls, and planted some in pots, and the rest in borders.
They will all blow next year, in spring and summer, &c, in the
different sorts.

SAXIFRAGE.

This is now a proper time to propagate saxifrage.

The double white saxifrage produces its flowers in the spring
season, in April or May, and makes a beautiful appearance.

They are easily propagated by the small granulous offset
roots, which they produce plentifully ; they are generally plant-
ed in pots, but may also be planted in the borders or beds, plant-
ing several of its small roots in a little cluster together, that
the flowers may come up in bunches ; otherwise they will make
but little show.

The pyramidal saxifrage makes a most beautiful appearance
when in bloom ; it is propagated by offsets, which arise from
the sides of the plants, and they may now be taken off, and
either planted in borders or pots, and will flower next year.

Likewise the thick-leaved purple, and some other dwarf
kinds, &c, of saxifrage may also be propagated by offsets or
slips.

AURICULA PLANTS.

The auricula plants in pots should, some time in this month,
be shifted into fresh earth.

For that purpose, provide a quantity of fresh light compost ;
let this be sifted, or otherwise broken very small between the
hands, and then be laid ready.

Then prick off all decayed leaves of the plants ; detach any
considerable increased offsets ; turn the plants out of the pots,
trim away some of the earth from its roots, or, if old plants,

424

THE PLEASURE

[Auq.

clear away the earth entirely : cut off any decayed part at bot-
tom of the main root, and let the extreme fibres be trimmed ,
this done, fill the pots nearly with new compost immediately,
set one plant in the middle of each, close the earth well about
the root and bottom part, and fill up the pots properly with
more compost.

When the whole are thus planted, let them be moderately
watered, and set the pots in a shady place, or shade them occa-
sionally from the sun with mats, and water them in dry wea-
ther till the plants have taken root.

Plant offsets of auriculas : if any are produced on the old
plants, either in plants or borders, &c, they may now be de-
tached and planted. — See May.

SEEDLING AURICULAS, &c.

The seedling auriculas and polyanthuses should now, where
it was omitted last month, be pricked out from the seed-bed.

Dig for them a bed or border in a somewhat sheltered, shady
situation, rake the surface even, and then put in the plants,
about three or four inches asunder, being careful to close the
earth neatly about the roots, &c, and give them a moderate
watering.

The waterings must, if the weather should prove dry, be re-
peated moderately every other day till the plants have taken
fresh root.

SOWING AURICULA AND POLYANTHUS SEED.

This is a good time to sow auricula seed ; and it will also be
proper to sow the seed of polyanthuses.

These seeds may either be sown in a border of light earth,
or in boxes, or large wide pots, or fiat wide garden pans, &c,
and for which purpose, either prepare a bed or border exposed
only to the morning sun : sow the seed and rake it in ; or, first
smooth the surface, sow the seed, cover it in with fine earth a
quarter to half an inch deep : or fill some pots or boxes of light
earth about the middle or latter end of the month, — let the seeds
be sown pretty thick, and cover them in with fresh earth about
a quarter of an inch deep.

The boxes or pots must then be set where only the morning
sun comes, stand there till the end of next month, and then be
removed where they can have the full sun..

The auricula seed will probably not grow before the spring,
but the plants will then come up earlier and stronger than those

Aug.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

425

sown at that season ; giving occasional protection in winter
from frost and other inclement weather.

But the polyanthuses will sometimes come up the same sea-
son, and will stand the winter well, and will be fit to plant out
early next summer, when they will have time to grow strong,
so as to be able to produce strong flowers the spring after.

CARNATION LAYERS.

Caknation layers, that have been laid five or six weeks, will
be well rooted, and should be cut'from the old root, and plant-
ed into beds or pots.

But in order to protect the layers more readily in winter, it
will be advisable to plant a parcel of the best plants in small
pots, particularly some of the choicest kinds.

For that purpose, let a quantity of moderately small pots
be procured of the sizes 32's or 48's, and fill them with good
earth ; then take off the layers, trim their tops a little, cut off
the naked bottom end close to the root, or slit part, which was
made in laying ; then plant one layer in each pot, and imme-
diately give a little water.

Then set all the pots in a shady situation, and give water
as occasion requires, till the plants have all fairly taken soot.

When the plants are firmly rooted, let the pots be then re,
moved into a more open situation, and remain there until the
latter end of October, when either place them in a warm situ-
ation for the winter, or for the principal sorts may form a raised
bed of some dry light compost, in which to plunge the pots,
prepared of any light dry earth, mixed with sand, ashes, or
any light warm soil, formed into a bed the width and length
of a garden frame, or of two or more lengthways, raised a few
inches above the common level of the ground when thus pre-
pared ; then, at the above time (October), plunge the pots to
their rims in the bed, close together, and in which to remain
all winter to protect the roots more effectually from frost : and
to be defended in bad weather with the glasses, &c.

But the glasses are only to be put on in severe frosts, snow,
ind much rain ; and must be taken off constantly in mild and
dry Weather.

Note. Where frames and glasses are wanting, the pots may,
at the above time, be plunged in a bed prepared as above ; then
place some rods or hoop-bend arches across the bed ; and having
some good thick mats always in readiness, let these be drawn
over the hoops to shelter the plants in severe frosty weather.

•126

THE PLEASURE

[Acs.

By plunging the pots into the bed of compost, it preserves
the plants more securely from frost ; for it then cannot enter
so easily at the sides of the pots to hurt the roots.

The plants are to remain in either of the above situations,
and in the same pots, till the latter end of February, or the
beginning or some time in March ; they are then to be turned
out with the ball of earth to their roots, and planted into the
large pots, where they are to blow. — 'See February and March.

But the common carnation layers, that are intended to be
planted in the borders, should be managed in this manner : —

When the layers are all well rooted, they are then to be
separated from the old plants, trimmed as above directed, and
planted in a bed or border of rich earth. Let them be set about
six inches distance every way from one another, and directly
watered, and the waterings must be occasionally repeated ; and
if very hot weather, and the bed, &c, open to the sun, it would
be of much advantage if the plants could be shaded from the
mid-day sun till well rooted.

The layers are to remain in this bed or border until October
or November, to gain strength, and then some may be trans-
planted into the borders, and others remain for transplanting in
the spring.

LAYING CARNATIONS.

This is still a proper time to lay carnations and double
sweet williams ; but this must be done in the beginning of the
month.

Take off all such layers of double sweet williams as were
laid five or six weeks ago, and manage them as directed for the
carnations.

PLANTING OUT PINK PIPINGS, &0.

When the pink pipings, &c, which were planted in June and
July, are well rooted and advanced in growth, let them in the
beginning and middle of this month be thinned out and planted
in three or four feet wide beds, in rows six inches asunder, and
give proper waterings : the rest will be fit to plant out next
month, and they will all acquire proper strength for flowering
moderately the following year, but in greater perfection the
second summer. — See June.

They will obtain a good bushy growth by the end of October,
when, or in November, or the following spring, some of the
strongest may be transplanted with balls into the borders, &c.

AUG.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

427

SOWING SEEDS OF BULBOUS FLOWERS.

Now sow seeds of bulbous flower-roots, to obtain new varie-
ties : such as tulips, hyacinths, narcissuses, iris, crown imperials,
fritillarias, and lilies, the seeds of martagons, crocuses, and of
any other bulbs.

These seeds may be sown, about the middle or towards the
latter end of the month.

They may be sown either in boxes, pots, or beds, &c. ; but
the convenience of boxes or pots is, they can be removed rea-
dily to different situations, as the season requires ; boxes, &c,
for this purpose, may be of any moderate size, about twelve or
fifteen inches, or more, in width and length, by eight or ten
deep : or larger wide garden pots are equally eligible.

They must be filled within an inch and a half of the top
with fine light earth, making the surface smooth ; then sow the
seeds thereon moderately thick, and cover them with sifted
earth, about half an inch deep.

The boxes or pots are then to be moved to a somewhat shady
situation ; and, if the weather proves dry, must be at times lightly
watered : they are to stand there till the latter end of Septem-
ber, and then to be removed to a warm part of the garden in
the full sun.

But these seeds may also, if you choose it, be sown ia beds
of light earth, and will succeed equally well, with a little care
of shading occasionally in hot sunny weather, and some shelter-
ing in winter from frost. The beds must be prepared in a dry
warm situation, and should be about three feet broad.

The boxes, &c, or beds, must be defended in winter from
severe frosts and great snows ; and this is to be done by laying
dry litter over and abou't the outsides of the boxes, or on the
surface of the beds.

The plants will begin to appear about the latter end of next
March, or in April, &c, and must then be kept clear from weeds,
and in dry weather refreshed often with water.

In June and July their leaves will decay, and then the sur-
face of the earth must be cleared from weeds and litter, and
about half an inch of fresh earth strewed over the surface of the
pots, boxes, or beds.

Thus let them remain till the same time the second summer,
and then it will be proper to transplant them.

Then at that time prepare a bed or two in a clean dry-lying

428

THE PLEASURE

[Aoc.

spot, and where the earth is light, and each bed to be three feet
broad.

Then take up the roots out of the seed-bed, and immediately
plant them into the beds prepared for them ; let them be placed
in rows four inches asunder.

The most ready method will be to draw neat drills, with a
small hoe, making them about two inches deep, and place the
roots in the drills an inch or two in distance; or if very small,
may be scattered thinly along the drills, and draw the earth
over them the depth of one or two inches.

The next summer, at the same time, the roots are to be re-
moved again, and must then be set three or four inches each
way apart.

Thus the seedlings are to be treated every summer till they
are brought to a state of perfect flowering ; observing at each
removal to allow more and more room.

When they are brought to a proper size of growth for flower-
ing, they are then to be managed as the other old roots.

But it will be several years before some of the roots arrive
at that state, particularly the tulips, which never begin to show
a flower till the sixth or seventh year ; but the advantage of
raising this and other choice bulbs from seed is, that when the
seedlings are raised to a flowering state, and begin to break
into stripes or variegations, or discover other peculiar properties,
according to the different species, there will every year appear
among them many new flowers.

This is the advantage of raising them from seed ; and like-
wise among the new flowers there will sometimes be some that
greatly excel by the lustre of colour, tinges, and regularity of
stripes, &c.

However, as the raising of bulbous roots from seed is a very
tedious process, and so long before they begin to flower, many
persons not having patience to wait the time, are deterred from
proceeding in the business ; and it is practised principally by those
who are particularly curious in these kinds of flowers.

SOWING ANEMONE SEEDS, &c.

Sow anemone seed, and the seed of ranunculuses, and spring
cyclamens.

It will be most advisable to sow these seeds principally in
boxes or large wide-mouthed pots, or flat garden pans.

The pots or boxes to be filled with rich, but very light earth
the seeds are to be scattered thereon pretty thick, and covered

Aug.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

429

lightly with sifted earth, not more than a quarter of an inch
deep.

The boxes or pots, with these seeds and plants, are, both
before and when they are come up, to be managed as above
directed in the management of the seedling bulbs.

REMOVING BULBOUS ROOTS. ,

This is still a proper time to remove or transplant, if re-
quired, several sorts of late flowering bulbous roots, now out of
bloom, such as the roots of martagons and red lilies; the stalks
and leaves of white lilies also now decay ; and that is also the
most proper time to remove these bulbs.

When the roots are taken up, the offsets must be all sepa-
rated from them ; and, when this is done, the principal roots
may either be planted again now in the proper places, or may
be dried and cleaned, and put, up till October, and then
planted.

But the best of the offsets should be planted again soon, in
nursery-beds, each sort separate, and there to remain a year or
two ; and then may be planted among the other flowering
roots.

Though as the martagons and other lily kinds having large
squamous or scaly bulbs, the scales thick, fleshy, and succulent,
they do not keep well long out of the ground, like the solid
and tunicated bulbs ; therefore, after being taken up, and the
offsets detached, it would be proper to replant them, either
directly, or as soon after as convenient ; or where these bulbous
roots are grown into large bunches, the outward offsets may
occasionally be detached without removing the mam roots.

May also remove, where necessary, bulbs of the Persian and
English bulbous irises, where it was omitted last month : and
the bulbs of narcissus, spring crocuses, and jonquils, fritilla-
riasj and most other bulbs whose leaves are decayed, and the
roots have not put out new fibres, may still be removed, if
required, either for fresh transplanting them, where necessary,
or to separate the increased offsets when grown into large
bunches.

For, as observed in the two or three former months, it is
necessaryto take up the best sorts of bulbous flower roots at least
once every two or three years, in order to separate the increas-
ed parts or offsets from the large or principal roots ; and it
should always be done as soon as the flower and leaves fade,
or at least in a short time after ; for at that period the roots are

410

THE PLEASURE

[Airs.

at rest, and draw no nourishment, but will bear removal with,
out the least check.

But, on the contrary, when the roots are permitted to remain
in the ground any considerable time after the decay of the stalks
and leaves, they will all send out new fibres, and even at that
time begin to form the bud for the next year's flower ; and if
the roots were after that to be taken up, they might receive so
great a check by the removal, that some sorts would not produce
flowers the succeeding year ; or, at least, if they did, the flower
would be very weak and of inferior appearance.

TRANSPLANTING SEEDLING PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS.

Transplant into nursery-beds the seedlings of wall-flowers,
stocks, sweet Williams, carnations, and pinks ; also columbines,
scabiouses, and other seedling perennial and biennial plants as
are still remaining in the seed-bed.

These should be transplanted in moist weather; and the
sooner the better, that the plants may have time to root, and
get some strength before winter. Let a border be dug for them,
or else dig some beds three or four feet broad, and immediately
put in the plants about six inches distance from one another,
and let them be directly watered.

When the plants have stood in the above beds or borders
about two months, or till the end of October, or any time in
November, &c, or next spring, a quantity may be then trans-
planted into the flower borders, and other parts of the pleasure
ground, to remain to blow next year.

CLIPPING HEDGES.

Now clip or cut hedges. All sorts may now be, clipped or
cut ; such as holly, yew, privet, hornbean, elm, lime, and also
thorn, and all other sorts.

This is the only proper season to cut such hedges as are only
cut but once a year; because those hedges that are trimmed
now will not push out any more shoots to signify this summer-,
so that they will not want cutting again till next year.

But such hedges as were clipped in the beginning, or middle
of last month, or before, will want clipping again in the middle
or latter end of this month ; which should be performed accor-
dingly, or next month at farthest ; not permitted to remain in
rough disorder all winter*

» The practice of clipping hedges with shears is now very generally supersede-
by the use of the Iwdge bill, which both makes better work, and la much more ex-
peditiously done.

Al7(i.] OR FLOWER GARDEN. £3]

CUTTING BOX AND THRIFT EDGINGS.

. Clip box edgings, in which take opportunity, if possible, of
moist weather : keep these edgings cut pretty low, and do not
let them grow too broad.

Edgings of thrift should also at this time be trimmed a little,
for they will now begin to want it ; that is, where it was not
done last month, should now cut off all the decayed flower
stalks : and where the sides have grown uneven, let them also
be cut to some regular order, either with a pair of garden-shears,
or, if much overgrown, may be cut in with a sharp edging-iron.

The garden shears for clipping box edgings, &c, should be
in good order, very sharp at the points, that you may be able
to cut the sides and top in a clean neat manner.

But this ought to be done in moist weather, if possible, par-
ticularly the cutting in the sides, &c, both of box and thrift
edgings; as, if too closely trimmed in a dry hot season, they are
apt, soon after, to assume a withered disagreeable appearance.

GRASS AND GRAVEL- WALKS, &c.

Continue to mow grass walks and lawns, and let this be done
once a week or fortnight, according to the growth of the grass,
which in pleasure gardens should always be kept down short,
close, and even.

Let the walks and lawns be also sometimes poled and rolled,
which is as necessary occasionally as mowing, to keep the grass
perfectly clean and neat; and the work of mowing can also be
thereby effected with much greater ease^and expedition; and
the cutting performed in a more close, clean, orderly manner,
to form a regular even surface.

In mowing of short garden grass, take always opportunity of
dewy mornings, or moist weather while the grass is wet ; for
short grass cannot be mowed with any tolerable despatch and
exactness when dry ; and always, soon after mowing, let the cut
grass be swept up clean, and carried away.

Gravel walks should always be kept very clear from weeds,
and occasionally swept from any scattering loose litter, and
these walks should also be rolled at least once or twice a week.

GENERAL CARE OF FLOWER BORDERS, &c.

The flower borders, beds, and shrubbery compartments, &c,
of the garden, should be continued always exceeding neat.
1 hese borders, and other similar ornamental compartments,

432

THE PLEASURE GARDEN.

[ Aug,

should be now and then gone over with a sharp hoe, in order
to loosen the surface and cut up any weeds that appear.

After this they should be raked over neatly, drawing off all
weeds and litter, and the surface raked even and regular, which
will thereby appear fresh and clean, of a neat agreeable order.

Likewise look over the plants in the borders, or other parts
of the garden ; and where there are any that discover a very disor-
derly growth, let them have some proper regulation in trim-
ming and tying, &c. ; where any branches or shoots, &c, ad-
vance in an irregular or straggling manner, let such be cut off
close or shortened, or others tied up as it shall seem necessary ;
and cut out all decayed flower-stalks.

Where the shoots of rambling flowering plants interfere with
each other, they should be shortened, so that every plant may
stand single : they always appear to the best advantage when
they stand clear of one another.

Take off all withered leaves, and let the main steins and
flowers be well supported with stakes or sticks, in an upright
direction, and climbing sorts according to their growth.

When any shoots hang dangling, cut them off near the stem
of the plant.

Where French and African marigolds, chrysanthemums, or
other strong-branching annual flowers, produce rambling shoots
near the ground, they should be trimmed up close to the stem
several inches upward from the bottom.

This will cause them to form handsome and regular heads,
and to show themselves to greater advantage than if the bran-
ches were permitted to spread near the ground.

GATHERING FLOWER SEEDS.

Gather the seeds of such flowers as are now ripe, in a dry
day, both of all sorts of annuals and biennials, and of such per-
ennials as may be required ; spread them on mats to dry in an
airy place where the sun can come.

When they are well hardened, beat or rub them out, and put
them in paper or canvass bags, or into boxes, till the season for
sowing them.

PLANTING AUTUMNAL BULBS.

Plant autumnal flowering bulbs, if any are now out of
ground, such as colchicums, autumnal narcissus, Guernsey
lily, and other amaryllises, autumnal crocus, &c, planting them
in beds or borders of light earth, and some Guernsey lily, &c.

Aug.]

THE NURSERY.

433

also in pots ; they will all blow or flower the same autumn ;
some the latter end of this month, and the others in the next
month, and October.

THE NURSERY.

HOEING AND CLEANING THE NURSERY ROWS.

Take advantage of dry days to hoe and destroy the weeds be-
tween the rows of young trees and shrubs of all kinds. Let
this always be done in due time, before the weeds grow to any
considerable size.

For when weeds are permitted to stand too long, it will re-
quire double labour to cut them down ; and large weeds, when
they are cut, will, if not raked off the ground, or well shaken
about, many of them, take root and grow up again.

WEEDING AND WATERING SEEDLINGS.

Seedling trees and shrubs of all sorts should also now be
kept perfectly free from weeds ; for these, if permitted to grow
in seed-beds, would do much damage.

In very dry and hot weather, it will still be proper to water
the beds and pots of small, young, tender seedling trees, and
it will at this time be a great advantage to the plants.

Likewise often water all plants in pots.

PRUNING AND REGULATING DISORDERLY GROWTHS IN TREES
AND SHRUBS.

Now is a good time to trim evergreens, and such other shrubs
as want it in the nursery. In doing this, observe to take out
vigorous shoots, or shorten them so as to form a more regular
head ; and cut away any low straggling under-growths.

Where forest trees or any others have made any vigorous
shoots from their stems, or very rambling growths in the head,
it will be proper to cut such shoots off close.

TRANSPLANTING YOUNG SEEDLING TREES.

In the beginning of this month, if the weather be a little
moist and cloudy, you may transplant seedlings, pines, and firs,
from the boxes and beds where they were sown.

434

TUB GREEN-HOUSE.

[Aug.

It is now to be observed, as hinted last month, that it is
not meant to make a general transplanting ; but only where
the. plants are any ways crowded in the seed-bed, it will be
proper to transplant some, that they may not stand to spoil
one another. Observing the same method as mentioned las
month.

PREPARING GROUND FOR GENERAL TRANSPLANTING.

The ground where a new plantation of young trees or shrubs
js to be made in autumn, should now be kept clear from large
weeds ; and if there be any now of large growth advancing to
seed, hoe them up, and rake them off the ground, and carry
them away.

Towards the end of this month it will be time to begin to
trench such vacant pieces of ground as are to be planted in
autumn with any' kinds of trees or shrubs : and in order that the
ground may be better improved by the rains, sun, and dew, it
trill; in digging, be most proper to lay it up in rough ridges,
till the time for planting in October and November, &c, and
then it can be expeditiously levelled down.

BUDDING.

Now go over the stocks that have been budded three weeks
sr a month, and let the bass be untied, that the parts about the
Bud may not be pinched.

Budding may also still be performed ; but it must be done
in the beginning or middle of the month at farthest, otherwise
it will not prove successful.

CHERRY AND PLUM STONES.

Preserve cherry and plum stones, &c, for sowing, to raise
stocks for budding and grafting.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

SHIFTING INTO LARGER POTS, &c.

Towards the middle or latter end of this month, let all such
green-house trees and shrubs, &c, as are in want of larger pots,
or a refreshment of new earth, be shifted, this being a good time
for doing that work.

Auo.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

For that purpose provide a quantity of fresh earth, and some
proper sized pots nr tubs ; these being ready, let such plants
be taken up out of their pots with the balls whole, then trim
off very dry, matted, and mouldy fibres of the roots, which
spread about the side and bottom of the ball, and trim away
part of the outward loose old earth.

Then having put in a little fresh earth in the new pots, se'i
one plant in each, and fill it up properly with the new compost,
and give it a moderate watering ; so proceed with others, and
remove the pots or tubs where the plants can be shaded some-
what from the sun, and sheltered from violent winds.

This is also now a very proper time to shift all kinds of suc-
culent plants that want larger pots ; such as euphorbiums,
sedums, aloes, and the various other similar sorts. Observing
generally on this occasion to allot most of the succulent tribe
a light dry soil ; a sandy earth, or any similar light compost is
eligible, in which to plant them, on account of their fieshy
succulent nature, and great humidity of most of these kinds of
plan ts.

Take them out of the pots and trim off some of the outward
old earth with care from the ball, and trim the straggling fibres
of the root ; set the plants immediately into the new pots, fill
it up equally round with new light dry compost, and directly
give each a little water.

Then set the pots in a shady place, and the plants will soon
take root. Some of the tender kinds may be placed in a gar-
den frame, and the glasses drawn on at times to protect the
plants from heavy rains, if such should happen before they take
root.

If these plants are shifted at the beginning or middle of this
month, they will have fixed themselves again tolerably well in
fresh rooting in two or three weeks.

PROPAGATING ALOES, &c.

The first or second week of this month is a proper time to
slip or detach suckers or bottom offsets of aloes, and other
succulents from the old plants, to propagate them.

The slips or offsets are to be planted singly, in small pots :
the pots must be filled with some very light dry compost.
These being ready, plant one in each pot, and close the
earth firmly about the root of the plants, and water them
moderately.

When all are planted, set the pots where they can be de-

436

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

[Aug.

fended from the raid-day sun, and in dry weather let them have
now and then a moderate refreshment of water; thus the plants
will be rooted in a short time.

WATERING.

Do not forget in dry weather to give water to all the pots
and tubs of oranges, lemons, and to all the other green-house
plants ; and let this be always given in due time, before tlie
earth in the pots or tubs becomes very dry.

But take particular care of the fruiting orange and lemon
trees, and do not let them want for moisture, otherwise the
young fruit lately set will drop off or become of stunted
growth.

FRESH EARTHING.

To orange and lemon-trees, &c, it would be a great advan-
tage to add a little fresh earth to the top of the tubs or pots,
provided it was not done in any of the former months during
the summer.

In doing this, the earth in the top of the tubs or pots should
be loosened almost to the surface of the roots, and the loosened
earth be taken out ; then let the pots or tubs be directly filled
up again with fresh rich earth.

When this is done, let every tub or pot have a moderate
watering ; and this settles the new earth close to the roots.

This should be done in the beginning of the month ; and it
is of such service to these plants, that if neglected before, the
doing of it should not be omitted now.

The above dressing would also be of much service to any
other green-house plants at this season, where not done any
time within the last two or three months.

INOCULATING ORANGE TREES, &c.

Inoculate orange, lemon, and citron trees, for this is the
only proper season to perform that operation on these trees ;
but it must be done in the first, or at farthest in the second
week in the month. The proper stocks to bud these upon are
such as are raised from the kernels of the same sort of fruit.
See the Green-House for, March,' April, June, and July.

Ao-i'.l

._ i.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

437

THE HOT-HOUSE.

GIVING AIR AND WATER.

Continue to admit a large portion of fresh air into the hoi-
house daily ; for the benefit of the plants in general in this de-
partment ; observing the rules as in June and July, &c.

Likewise, let all the plants have water pretty -freely two or
three times a week, or as often as it may appear necessary, to
keep the earth in the pots always in a moderate degree of
moistness. — See July.

SHIFTING FINE-APPLE PLANTS.

The succession fruiting pine-apple plants, which are to bear
the fruit to be expected next year, should now, where it was
not done last month, be shifted into the large pots, where they
are finally to remain to fruit.

The pots for this purpose should be those called twenty-fours
or sixteens ; but if large plants, have principally the latter sized
pots.

Let this shifting be done, if possible, in the first or second
week in the month, that they may have time to make new
roots, and establish themselves in a free growth by October,
ready for being placed in a new bark-bed in the fruiting-house,
where they are to remain to fruit.

In shifting these plants observe to let a proper quantity of
fresh earth be brought and laid ready ; or any light, mellow,
rich garden mould will do ; but if a prepared compost of rich
kitchen-garden earth, fresh light loam, and a portion of tho-
roughly rotten dung, all worked up together in a ridge, ex-
posed in the full sun and air some months before, it will be the
most eligible soil for these plants.

The earth being ready, then bring the new pots for the re-
ception of the plants, and, as you proceed in planting, put as
much of the new earth into each pot as will cover the bottom
two, three, or four inches deep, according to the size of the
pots and plants ; and then having taken the plants in their
present pots out of their bark-bed, with care turn out each
plant with its ball entire ; and placing it in the new pot, fill up
the vacancy with fresh earth, and immediately give a moderate
watering.

438

THE HOT-nOUSE.

[Aug.

When all is planted, let the bark-bed be stirred up with a
fork at the bottom : at the same time let a good quantity of
new tan be thrown in, and fork up both well together. — See
July.

This being done, let the pots immediately be plunged again
to their rims, and refresh them now and then with water.

Likewise after shifting, it would be beneficial to give a slight
shade of mats over the glasses in hot sunny days, from about
ten to two or three o'clock.

GENERAL CAKE OF PINE APPLE PLANTS.

The principal care of the pine-apple plants now in general
is to allot them a large admission of fresh air every warm day,
and to supply them properly with frequent necessary moderate
waterings.

But observe, particularly, in the plants now in full fruit
.ripening, to apply the occasional waterings the most mode-
rately, that too much moisture may not affect the flavour of the
fruit.

According as the fruit attains full maturity, should generally
give proper attention to gather it while in good perfection, be-
fore too ripe, and the high flavour much evaporated.

PROPAGATING PINES

As the pine-apples will now ripen apace, should, accordingly
as they are out or gathered for the table, give the old plants the
necessary care, to assist their production of a supply of bottom
suckers for an increase of new plants ; in which let them be
managed as directed last month: and the suckers are also to be
treated according to the method there mentioned.

Likewise take care of the crowns on the tops of the pine-
apples ; these also serve for propagation : when the fruit has
been served at table, the crown should be taken off with a gentle
twist, and this, where convenient or is required, may be return-
ed in order to be planted.

The management of the crowns now is also the same as in
the last month.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

439

SEPTEMBER.

WORK TO EE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

MUSHROOMS.

This is now a principal season to begin to provide mushroom
spawn, and to prepare proper supplies of hot dung for making
mushroom beds, in which to plant the said spawn for the- pro-
duction of mushrooms.

These beds should be made of the best warm horse stable-
dung, and about the beginning, or any time this month, is the
proper time to provide a necessary quantity, ready for that pur-
pose ; taking the long moist litter and short dung together, and
the whole well intermixed.

But before you work the dung up in a bed, it should be toss-
ed up mixedly together in a heap, that the whole may ferment
equally, and to remain till the first great heat is over ; this is
generally effected in a fortnight or three weeks' time, according
to the quantity ; it will then be in right order, and you may
proceed to make the bed.

But before you make the bed, it is proper to provide a suffi-
cient quantity of good mushroom spawn ; this is a material
article : and a proper quantity must be procured to plant into
the bed to produce the mushrooms, for this spawn contains the
plant in embryo.

This is frequently found in the dung of old cucumber or melon,
or other decayed dung hot-beds ; it is also often to be met with
in horse dunghills, which have lain several months ; spawn is
also to be found in pasture fields and meadows, and should be
searched for in those places where you see mushrooms rise
naturally ; but I generally prefer the spawn found in dung, either
in old hot-beds or in old dunghills, or dungy composts, &c, as
greatly superior to the field spawn, both for the greater cer-
tainty of being the true salutiferous sort, and for the general
superiority of its production in good fleshy mushrooms.

I have often found excellent spawn in some old dunghills and
compost heaps ; such as we commonly see piled up in large
heaps in the lanes, or on commons near farm fields ; and you
will generally find it most of all in those dung heaps which con-
fist chiefly of horse stable dung, observing to search in such as
sppear to have lain for several months ; and may also often find

440

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Sep.

most excellent strong spawn in horse-mill tracts, where horses
are employed constantly under shelter in turning mills, &c. or in
stable-yards, where horse dung has lain some considerable time
in the dry ; also in covered horse rides, in livery stable-yards,
inns, &c, where horses are exercised ; the places being thickly
littered with short stable dung, fine cakes of spawn are often
found towards the sides. '

Spawn is commonly found in searching as above, in lumps
of dry rotten or half rotted dung ; is a white fibrous substance,
running and spreading itself in the said lumps of dry rotten
dung ; appearing of a white stringy or filamentose nature, and,
if of the true sorts, has exactly the smell of a mushroom.

Let these lumps be taken up carefully, dung and spawn to-
gether, observing to preserve the pieces as entire as possible,
laying them at the same time in a wheelbarrow or basket with
the same care : when you have gathered enough for your purpose,
let the lumps be laid in a dry place, and covered with some dry
litter, or garden mats, till the bed is ready.

But if the pieces of spawn are wet, or very damp, you may
lay them thinly together in a dry shady place, where they may
dry leisurely ; then cover them as above.

I have been obliged often to buy my spawn of the market
gardeners in the neighbourhood of London, but particularly
those called the Neat-house gardeners, near Chelsea ; also about
Lambeth and places adjacent ; where many of the gardeners'
labourers go about at the proper season and collect great quan-
tities for sale. It may, if closely packed up in hampers, be
safe conveyed to a great distance. I have more than once
sent it above a hundred and fifty miles.

It is sold kom about two or three to six or eight shillings per
bushel ; though sometimes, when plentifully procured, is sold
for quarter the last mentioned price.

When you have obtained the spawn, you may then begin to
make the bed as soon as the dung is in a right condition for
that purpose.

Choose a dry lying place, either in the melon ground, where-
in to make the bed, or on any other dry sheltered situation ; and
the bed should be made generally wholly upon the surface ot
the ground : or occasionally in a shallow trench only six inches
deep, and to the width and length of the intended bed ; and
the excavated earth of the trench, if a rich, light, mellow soil,
will serve to earth the bed.

Mark out on the ground the width and length of the bed,

Sep.]'

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

441

which must be at least three and a half to four feet wide, and
as long as you shall think convenient, from fifteen or twenty
to fifty feet, or more, according to the quantity you intend to
raise, and is to be made ridgeways, like the roof of a house,
about three and a half to four feet high.

Bring in the dung, and lay the bottom of the bed to the full
extent ; and as you advance in height, draw both sides in gra-
dually from the bottom, till you bring, as it were, to nothing at
the top.

As you proceed in making the bed, observe to shake and mix
the dung well together, but do not tread it, but beat it down
firmly with the fork, and permit the whole to settle gradually
of itself.

Thus let the bed be carried on, till you have raised it to the
height of at least three feet and a half, or four feet high,
finishing the whole in the form of the ridge of a house,, as
aforesaid.

Having made the bed, you must let it remain for at least a
fortnight or three weeks, or a month, according to its substance
and extent, before you put in the spawn, or at least till the
heat is become quite moderate ; for the bed will be very warm
in a day or two after it is made, and will continue in a great
heat for many days ; and if the spawn was to be put in while
the heat is strong, it would be entirely destroyed ; therefore,
have two or three long sticks thrust down into the dung, to
pull up occasionally to try the heat ; which be sure let be quite
mild, reduced to a very low warmth, before you venture the
spawn in : for this is very delicate, impatient both of too much
heat, severe cold, and copious moisture.

Remember, after the bed is made, that if there should happen
to fall much rain before it is ready for the spawn, to cover the
whole a good thickness at the top with long dry litter, or gar-
den mats, for much wet would spoil the bed.

When the bed is in a due condition, let the spawn be brought
out in a dry day, dividing the large lumps into smaller, and
plant it in rows lengthways of the bed, observing to begin the
first row within about, five or six inches of the bottom.

Plant the pieces of spawn in the dung, observing to put
them just within the surface of the bed, and let them be put in
about five or six inches asunder ; when you have finished one
row, begin another six or eight inches from the first, and so
proceed till you have planted the whole.

When this is done, !et the surface of the bed be made quite

442

THE KITCHEN GARDEN

[Sup.

smooth, by beating the dung gently with the back of your spade.
Then let every part of the bed, from the bottom upward, be co-
vered with some rich dry earth about an inch and a half thick ;
let this also be made quite smooth by using the spade as
above.

Or sometimes the spawning is performed by placing the
spawn upon the surface of the dung, making first a layer of
earth along the bottom three or four inches width and two
thick : so placing the first row of spawn upon the dung close
along the upper edge of the layer of earth, then earth over the
spawn the above thickness, continuing the layer of earth six
inches up the side of the bed, place more spawn, as before ;
and so proceed with the rest, finishing as above.

Likewise the spawning is sometimes effected by first earth-
ing the bed all over an inch and half, or two inches thick, then
inserting the spawn into the earth close down to the dung, and
then add a little more earth over the whole, not more than
an inch thick, smoothing the surface evenly.

Then, in either of the above methods, let the whole be covered
with some clean dry straw, or dry long stable litter, a foot
thick at least, to keep out the wet and cold ; observing, how-
ever, if you have any doubt of the bed recovering a vigorous
heat again soon after being spawned and closely earthed over,
which confines the heat and hot steam, you may cover it only
but a quarter or half the thickness at first, or not at all for a
few days or a week or fortnight, if a very substantial bed, and
the weather is dry ; but if rain falls, defend it above with the
straw, or dry long horse stable litter ; for if the bed is now
suffered either to have too much heat or wet, all is lost, so de-
licate is the spawn — and requires therefore the greatest precau-
tions in the first setting off, being careful, however, agreeable to
the foregoing hints, to cover the bed all over in due time with
dry litter, the full thickness above mentioned ; which must be
continued constantly over the bed in all weathers, night and
day, and thus the bed, with proper care, will begin to produce
mushrooms in five or six weeks.

During the present season, and all winter, the bed must be
sept constantly covered, night and day, as above, to defend it
securely from wet and cold : and in time of heavy rains, severe
frost, or. snowy weather, the depth of covering should be aug-
mented with more dry straw, and over this spread some large
garden mats or canvas cloth, which should" remain constantly
all winter.

TItE KITCHEN GARDEN.

443

And when heavy incessant rains fall, or great falls of thaw-
lig snow, examine the covering ; if the wet has penetrated
quite through, remove the wet straw ; and apply some clean
and dry next the surface of the bed.

Or, after the bed has been spawned and covered some con-
siderable time, and the mushrooms do not seem to come freely,
or that the warmth of the bed appears spent, may remove the
covering, except a little next the bed, and apply upon this a
quantity of warm dry horse stable litter, near a foot thick, and
other dry litter over that ; and this will promote a fresh mode-
rate heat in the bed, and prove very beneficial.

But these beds, in the summer season, may sometimes have
the covering of litter taken off for a short time, when a very
moderate warm shower, and in very hot weather may now and
then have little sprinklings of water.

These beds generally begin to produce plenty of good mush-
rooms in five or six weeks after being spawned ; and will con-
tinue sometimes bearing for several months.

The spawn, when it begins to run, spreads itself very fast
every way, and the plants will rise thickly, in a successional
order, all over the bed.

But sometimes a mushroom bed will not begin to yield any
plants till two, three, or four months after it is made ; but when
that happens, it may be assisted by applying a good thickness"
of long warm stable litter, as above intimated, to revive the
declining warmth, and set the spawn in motion.

When the bed is in full production, it should be examined
two or three times a week to gather the produce ; turning off
the straw covering very carefully ; and generally gather most
of the mushrooms while of moderate size, or not exceeding a
middling large growth, or before they become large flaps, espe-
cially for most principal culinary purposes ; though, on some
occasions, are required , in large flaps, and in others in small
button growth, the size of ordinary round buttons, larger or
smaller as they may occur — detaching them clean to the bottom
by a gentle twist ; not cut them to leave the stump, it being
apt to become magotty, infectious to the successional plants ;
and as soon as gathered return the covering.

I have sometimes planted mushroom spawn on the late cu-
cumber ridges, made in March, April, and May, and in a month
or two after, introduced the pieces of spawn along the top edges
of the bed into the earth, and covered the places outwardly with
,a little short dry litter : and thus the spawn has succeeded and

444

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Sep

produced a great number of mushrooms in August, September,
and October.

PLANTING AND SOWING LETTUCES.

The different sorts of lettuces which were sown in August,
for autumn, winter, and spring use, should be planted out at
different times of this month into the beds and borders where
they are to remain.

Let some good rich light ground be digged for each of these
crops ; observing, the crop for the same autumn and beginning
of winter service should be planted out the beginning and middle
of this month, in any bed or border, in rows ten or twelve
inches asunder ; but those of the late August sowings, intend-
ed to stand the winter, for spring supply, are to be planted out
towards the latter end of this month, in three feet wide beds,
or in borders, in rows six inches distance, and give a moderate
watering as soon as planted.

Also about the last week in the month, dig a warm south
border under a wall, &c, for a principal supply of these plants
to stand over the winter; rake the surface even and smooth ;
then let some of the best plants be taken up from the seed-
bed, pick off broken and decayed leafes, and trim the ends of
their roots a little, and put the plants in rows, six inches asun-
der by four inches in the rows.

If the plants survive the winter, part may be thinned out
regularly in the spring, and planted in a more open exposure ;
the rest may remain in the border to cabbage early.

But observe, if no lettuce seed was sown in the third or
Fourth week in August, to raise plants for the borders, as above,
you must not, in that case, omit to sow some for that purpose,
some time in the first week of this month, which indeed will
be soon enough, in warm rich grounds.

SOWING LETTUCE TO PLANT IN FRAMES FOR SPRING USE.

Aboot the beginning or towards the middle, or not later than
some time between the 10th and 15th of this month, you should
sow some lettuce of different sorts to plant in frames, &c, in
October, to stand the winter for use next spring, and early in
the summer.

These may be protected in frosty or very wet weather, by
covering them with glasses and other covering, when neces-
sary ; and if those which are planted in the open borders should
be cut off, these will be ready to supply their place.

Sep.]

THE K1TCH&,, GARDEN.

445

The best lettuces for this purpose are principally the green
and white Cos ; and may also sow some white, and hardy green
cabbage lettuce, brown Dutch and Cilicia ; but sow most of
.the Cos kinds to plant in frames, &c. (See October) ; and the
seed should be sown in a bed or border of rich earth, in a warm
situation.

PLANTING LETTUCES IN FRAMES FOR WINTER USE.

To obtain lettuces in some tolerable perfection for the table
in the winter months, you should, about the latter end of this
month, prepare one or more beds of rich earth, in a part of
the garden where the ground is driest, and lies well to the
south sun.

Make the beds the length and width of one or more shallow
cucumber or melon frames.

Then let some good plants Of the brown Dutch, best stocky
Cos, and common cabbage lettuce, be taken up from some trans-
planted beds, with balls of earth about their roots, and plant-
ed therein, about six or eight inches asunder each way, and
watered.

When the weather begins to grow cold, next month, &c,
you may put the frames over the beds, and cover them with
the lights occasionally, and other covering in cold nights, and
when the weather is severe.

These, by the above management, will be moderately well
cabbaged, fit for the table, in November and December, &c;
and by planting more in October, and beginning of November,
you will have these sorts of lettuces, if a moderate winter,
tolerably well cabbaged, in small heads, in January and Feb-
ruary, and in preferable perfection in March.

But if, in November and December, some large plants are
planted as above, in a moderate hot-bed, under a frame and
glasses, they will more effectually attain a larger growth, and
cabbage in better perfection.

CAULIFLOWERS.

The cauliflower plants which were sown in August will
require to be planted out in a nursery-bed about the middle or
20th of this month.

Let a bed be prepared for them in a well sheltered part of
the garden, where it lies well to the sun.

Prepare the beds four feet wide, or the width of a garden.

44(5

THE KITCHEN GARDEN,

frame, in the same manner, and observe the same rules as men-
tioned the last month, in the article of Cauliflowers.

Mind to draw out some of the best plants from the seed-bed,
rejecting such whose stems are crooked and black ; and clear
the plants from decayed and damaged leaves.

Plant them in rows about three or four inches asunder, and
allow near the same distance between plant and plant in the
row, observing not to plant them so deep as to bury their hearts,
for that would destroy them.

When you have planted the whole, give the plants a little
water to settle the earth to their roots ; observing not to apply
the water too hastily, so as to break their leaves, or wash the
earth into their hearts.

Then, if the plants are small, or backward in growth, you may
place a frame on the bed, and also put on the lights ; but the
glasses are now to be continued only for a few days, till the
plants have taken root ; observing till that period to shade them
from the sun ; but when they have got root, the glasses are to
be taken entirely off, and are to be used only occasionally for a
month to come ; but if there should happen cold nights or heavy
rains, it will at such time be proper to put on the lights, to
defend the plants therefrom ; for too much moisture would prove
very prejudicial to these young plants, and would occasion their
shanks to become black and rot.

When they have been in this bed a month or five weeks, they
may either occasionally be transplanted into other beds, protec-
ted with frames, &c, as above, to remain all winter ; or if not
very luxuriant in growth, may be continue in thee same beds,
only some may be planted out finally under hand-glasses next
month. See the work of October and November.

MICHAELMAS CAULIFLOWERS.

Some of the cauliflowers which were planted out in July for
the Michaelmas crop will begin to show their heads about the
end of this month, or beginning of next.

Let these be encouraged as much as possible, early in the
month, by hoeing between, and drawing some earth up round
fhe stem of each plant, and keep them clear from weeds.

If the weather in this month proves very warm and dry, it
tvould be of advantage to form the earth like a basin round each
plant, and pour water therein ; this will encourage them to grow
freely, and produce large heads in October and November: for

Sep.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

447

if they are stinted now in their free growth for want of moisture,
their heads will be small at the proper season.

PLANTING BROCCOLI, CABBAGE, AND SAVOYS.

Transplant your last crop of broccoli the first or second
week of this month, into the place where they are to remain to
produce their heads.

Dig a piece of rich ground for these plants in a warm situa-
tion, and plant them in rows a foot and a half asunder, and
observe the same distance between the rows, which will he suf-
ficient room for this late plantation.

Likewise, at the above time, plant out some of the stoutest
cabbage plants of the sugar-loaf and York kinds, &c, of the
summer and early autumn sowing, for small heading colewort
cabbages next month, and the two following ; also some late
savoys for small-hearted plants towards spring.

Hoe the ground and destroy the weeds between the broccoli,
cabbages, and savoys, which were planted out the former months,
and let some earth be drawn up round their stems.

YOUNG CABBAGE PLANTS.

The young cabbage plants which were sown the first or
second week in August for an early and principal crop next sum-
mer and autumn should be pricked into nursery beds. Some
of the forwardest about the beginning, and the rest in the mid-
dle or latter end of this month.

Choose a piece of good ground for them in a sheltered situ-
ation ; dig it neat and evenly, and lay it out in beds three feet
and a half, or four feet wide.

Thin out the plants regularly from the seed-bed ; observing
to take the strongest first : the smallest may be left in the seed-
bed a fortnight longer, to increase in strength.

Plant them in rows lengthways of the bed, about four inches
asunder in the row, and four to five or six inches between the
rows, according as the plants, in their respective kinds, are of
smaller or larger growth ; closing the ground well about theii
stems, and leave the surface smooth.

When you have finished planting, give them some water ; and
if the weather is dry, repeat it twice or thrice for the first week or
(en days, by which time the plants will have taken good root.

COLEWOUTS.

The first or second week in this month you should plant out
«ome of the forwardest of the cabbage colewort plants, which

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Sep

were sown in the latter end of July and in August, into the
places where they are to remain both for the autumn and winter
and early spring service : and in the middle or latter end of the
month plant out the rest for a general spring crop. — See July
and August.

Let these be planted in a free situation of new digged ground,
in rows eight or ten inches distant in the row : the rows should
be twelve or fifteen inches asunder. They will be fit for use,
some of them in October and November of the first plantation ;
the others will succeed them in regular order, both for winter,
and spring service.— See the work of J uly and August.

PLANTING CELERY.

Plant out more celery the beginning of this month into tren-
ches for a successional winter crop, and about the middle and
latter end of the month plant out a quantity for a late winter
crop, and for spring supplies.

Prepare some trenches for these plants where the ground is
light and driest. Let the trenches be marked out ten or twelve
inches, or about a spade wide, and to be digged out five or six
inches deep, and allow a space of thirty inches, or three feet,
between the trenches, which will be sufficient for this late crop :
dig out each trench lengthways, a spade wide and a moderate
depth, as above, laying the earth evenly in the spaces between,
which assists in landing up the plants when of proper growth.
— See July and August.

Then procuring a quantity of the best celery plants for plant-
ing, trim the roots and long tops of the leaves, and plant one
row in each trench. Let the plants be set about five or six
inches asunder in the row, and water them directly.

EARTHING UP CELERY.

Earth up the crops of celery which are planted in trenches,
according as they advance in growth, that they may be blanched
of a proper length.

The first crops will now be considerably advanced, and should
be earthed up higher accordingly. The other crops in propor-
tion to their growth.

Let this work be done when the plants are dry, and in due
time, as you see they require it, according to their advanced
growth : using, for this purpose, the earth between the rows,
break it properly, and lay it to the plants with care, so as not
to break the stalks or bury the hearts.

Sep.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

449

TYING UP ENDIVE TO BLANCH.

Tie together the leaves of endive to blanch the plants white,
tender, and mild tasted ; observing generally to perform it in
dry weather, and principally to the largest full-sized plants, of
good stocky growth and full in the heart ; and in doing this
■work, gather up the leaves evenly in your hand, and tie them
together with a string of bass, or small osier twig, a little above
the middle of each plant.

PLANTING ENDIVE.

Plant out endive the beginning of this month for a general
winter crop ; let these be planted in a dry spot in a warm situ-
ation, allowing them a foot distance each way.

And about the middle, or towards the latter end of this month,
you should plant out some endive on a warm border, or some
other dry sheltered compartment, to remain till December, and
after Christmas before you begin to blanch it.

This, if it survives the frost, will be acceptable for salads,
and other uses, in January, February, and March.

LANDING UP CARDOONS.

The cardoons will be advanced to some considerable height
by the beginning or middle of this month ; you must then begin
again to prepare to blanch them higher accordingly.

The first step towards this work now is, to tie their leaves
close and regular together, to admit of landing up earth around
each plant ; for as the plants will be now arrived to a large tall
growth, and their leaves will spread much, so that the earthing
cannot be completely done till they are tied up, this you must
do either with strong bass bandages, small hay bands, or thin
pliable ropes of straw, or long litter, &c. ; observing to gather
the leaves up regularly together, beginning near the bottom,
and tie each plant closely together as high as you shall think
proper to earth them, which should be advanced two feet high,
or more, by degrees.

Then let the earth be very well broken, and lay it up about
them as high as they are tied ; remembering that every plant
be earthed singly, laying the earth up quite round the plant ,
and at the same time observing to pat it gently with the back
of the spade, both to fix it in its due place and position, and
that wet may readily run off.

Those earthed up now will be fit for use in October, Nov-

450

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Sep.

ember, and December, and the two succeeding months, but hi
severe frost should be covered with dry litter ; which, as the
plants are of considerable height, should be applied accordingly ;
or in some fully branched plants, may, at the approach of
severe frost, loosen the earth below on one side, and turn them
down towards the ground, as the covering can then be more
readily applied.

SPINACH.

The spinach which was sown in August should now be clear-
ed, and thinned out to proper distances.

This work may either be performed by hand or hoe; it is
not material which, provided the weeds are destroyed, and the
plants left regular. >

In dry weather, small hoeing them is the most expeditious
method ; but if the weather is moist, it will be best to perform
that work by hand.

Let the plants be thinned out regularly to the distance of three
or four inches ; observing to leave the strongest ; or the plants
may be left closer, and thinned out by degrees for use ; and
let the whole be perfectly well cleared from weeds.

Where spinach was not sown last month, it may still be done ;
and, in a rich warm soil, will succeed tolerably well ; but must
be done in the beginning of the month.

Or also where a proper full crop was sown last month, a
smaller portion may be sown the beginning of this, to succeed
the other in the spring ; and will stand longer before it runs
to seed at that season.

YOUNG WINTER ONIONS.

The young winter onions which were sown the end of July,
or the beginning, or towards the middle of August, will now
want weeding : let this be done in due time, before the weeds
get the start of the plants ; for, in that case, they would do
the crop much injury, and also render it very troublesome to
separate the weeds from them ; and should therefore now be
properly attended to with particular diligence.

This work must be entirely done by hand, and with great
care ; otherwise many of these young plants will be drawn out
with the weeds ; for the onions are not now to be thinned.

Where the sowing of onions was omitted last month, you
may still sow some seed ; there will be a chance of their suc-
ceeding, particularly Welch onions ; but it must be done in the

Sep:]

THE KITCHEN WARDEN.

451

first week in the month ; or may also sow a few of both sorts
to succeed those of the August sowing in the spring and
beginning of summer ; as they will stand longer before they
run for seed.

TURNIPS.

Hoe the turnips which were sown the last months let this
be done in a dry day; and let your hoe be sharp, and of a
middle size.

Cut the weeds up clean, and let the plants be hoed out
regularly, six or eight inches distant. See August.

SMALL SALAD ING.

Let the different kinds of small salading be sown once a
week or fortnight, as you may see it necessary, where a regular
succession is required ; the sorts are cresses, mustard, radish,
and rape.

These seeds may now be sown in any free situation, where
the earth is light and rich.

About the middle or end of this month, begin to sow these
seeds on a warmer border, under a south wall, or other fence of
the same aspect.

Towards the end of this month, if the weather should prove
very wet and cold, you should begin to sow some small salad
herbs on warm borders, or otherwise in frames, and cover
them with the lights occasionally ; or you may sow them under
hand or bell glasses, for these plants will make but poor pro-
gress if they are not protected in cold weather, especially in
cold nights.

These plants generally rise best when they are sown in drills ;
but the drills must be shallow, or may be sown broad cast :
sowing each sort separate, and very thick, and the seed cover-
ed not more than a quarter of an inch with light earth. See
the spring months.

CHERVIL AND CORN SALAD,

Sow chervil and corn salad the beginning of this month, if
not done in August, for winter and early spring use, the former
for soups, and both of them also for salads. See August.

GATHERING RIPE SEEDS.

Gather seeds in dry weather of such plants as now ripen,
such as lettuce, leeks, onions, cauliflowers, &c, which you

452

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Sep

must well attend to in these kinds particularly, according as
they acquire maturity, and before attacked by the autumnal
rains or mildew.

As cauliflower seed ripens late, when most other seeds of
that nature are gathered, it is apt to be attacked more greedily
by the green birds and chaffinches, &c, should at that time, the
beginning, or towards the middle of this month, be well watch-
ed, to chase away the above kind of birds, which otherwise would
devour most of the best seed.

According as the seed ripens, as it. seldom attains that per-
fection all together, cut off the seed branches, and place them
in the full sun, to harden the seed in a proper degree ; then
should be thrashed or beat out of the husks, cleaned and bagged
up, and deposited in a dry apartment.

i THE FRUIT GARDEN.

PEACHES.

Go over your peaches, nectarines, and other wall-trees, and
see that all the branches keep firm in their proper places ; if
any be loose, or project from the wall, let them be fastened up
in their due position.

This prevents their being broken by winds : and when the
whole lies close and regular to the wall, then all the fruit can
equally enjoy the benefit of the sun to ripen it ; and it also
appears decent and agreeable to the eye.

Where any of the ripening fruit are too much covered with
the leaves, let some be displaced ; for although a moderately
slight shade or coverture of the leaves is requisite and bene-
ficial to the growth of all fruit, yet, in its more advanced state
particularly, too full a shade is of disadvantage, in some degree,
so far, that the fruit would not attain either its peculiar colour
or flavour, in full perfection.

But the removing of leaves is only to be practised where they
are uncommonly thick, and darken the fruit much ; and in that
case they are only to be thinned regularly, still preserving a
slight covering of leaves over the fruit.

VINES.

Look over your vines again, to see that the grapes enjoy the
necessary advantage of sun and air, to promote their ripening.

Sep.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

453

Where the bunches of grapes are too much shaded, let some
of the leaves be taken off; and where any of the bunches are
too close confined between the branches, or entangled with each
other, let them be loosened, so that each may hang fair in their
proper position, as observed in August.

If the vines have produced any late shoots in the last month
let them be taken off wherever they appear ; for they are use-
less, and if left on, they would cause confusion and irregularity,
and also darken the fruit, and retard its maturity.

For as grapes will now be ripening, they should have all
possible benefit of the sun to forward them, and give a rich
flavour.

Protect ripe grapes from the birds, wasps, &c, by bagging
the best bunches in crape, gauze, or paper bags, as explained
below.

PROTECTING WALL-FRUIT FROM WASPS, FLIES, AND BIRDS.

Continue to hang up phials of sugared or honey water, beer,
or other strong-scented liquor, &c, to catch the wasps and flies
which still detrimentally infest the choice wall-fruit, as peaches,
nectarines, pears, plums, &c, and will also do much mischief
to the grapes ; as will also the birds : therefore, besides the
bottles of sweetened liquor, let also some small bags, made of
thin crape or gauze, be put over some of the finest and ripest
bunches of grapes. These bags should be made just so large
as to contain one bunch of fruit ; this will effectually keep off
the insects, and also the birds ; which would devour these fruits
at a vast rate.

But the birds you may keep from the fruit by fixing nets
before the trees, or hanging up scare-crows of feathers, or in
extensive walling, discharging a gun or pistol occasionally;
but the most certain method to preserve some of your finest
bunches of grapes from all devourers, is to bag them as above
directed. -

Or, for want of crape bags, &c, may use those of white paper,
but these do not succeed so well, for the sun is then too much
excluded from the fruit ; and in wet weather the paper being
wetted, it adheres to the bunches, and damages the berries :
whereas the sun and air have free access through the crape,
and when wet they will very soon become dry again ; and if
wet weather continues, no inconvenience attends them by means
of the bags.

Hang up phials of sweetened liquor-water also upon the

454 THE FRUIT [Sep,

choice kinds of fig-trees, — for wasps and other insects generaliy
swarm about these trees, to feed on the ripening fruit.

You should also watch birds very well, or they will pick and
spoil many of the best figs.

GATHERING APPLES AND PEARS.

Now begin to gather autumn apples and pears for keeping,
according as they arrive to mature growth ; many of the
autumn sorts will be ready to take down for that purpose to-
wards the middle or latter end of the month ; but for present
service, several sorts will be of eligible growth to pick here and
there off the trees any time this month, occasionally as wanted.

However, most of these autumn kinds which now attain
mature growth serve both for present supply and for keeping a
moderate time ; but not all winter, like the winter apples and
pears, as some will probably not keep above a month or six
weeks, others a month or two longer ; in all of which there are
many very good fruit.

This work of gathering the above kinds should generally be
done in a perfectly dry day ; and be sure to let the fruit be also
quite dry before you begin to pull them ; and all the fruit which
are for keeping should hang their full time on the trees, but
especially the late autumnal pears and apples, not till dead ripe,
but of full growth. — See October.

About the latter end of this month many of the winter fruits
will be fit to gather ; but if the weather is fine, let them hang
on the trees till October.

When the apples and pears have hung their full time on the
trees, they will easily quit the wood on being handled ; and
when they begin to drop off apace, that is a certain sign of their
maturity, and that they may be gathered. — See October.

PREPARING FOR PLANTING.

Begin towards the end of the month to prepare the ground
where new plantations of fruit trees are to be made.

If an entire new border is intended for wall trees, &c, it is
of importance to add a good supply of thoroughly rotten dung,
and the ground to be worked to the depth of at least eighteen
inches or two feet : and if it is light dry soil, it would be an
advantage to add also some fresh loam or other good substantial
fresh mellow earth, from a pastured common, or field, &c, but
particularly to the places where the trees are to stand. — See
next month.

Sep.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

455

As several sorts of fruit-trees will now appear to have declin-
ed all growth, by the leaves beginning to discover some signs
of decay towards the latter end of the month, they may be
removed for planting ; such as some forward kinds of peaches,
apricots, cherries, &c, and being thus early planted in autumn,
they will very quickly take root the same season, to their par-
ticular advantage against winter and next spring ; give a good
watering at planting, &c.

STRAWBERRIES.

Now is a proper time to plant strawberries ; and, if moist
weather, it may be done at any time in the month : but, if the
weather be very dry and hot, it will be proper either to water
them plentifully, or not begin planting till the middle, or towards
the latter end of the month.

The strong young runner plants of the same year, taken from
beds that bear well, are the proper sets for planting ; such as
advised next month and in June : and if any were then (June)
planted out in nursery beds, as there directed, they will be now
in fine order for this plantation ; or young offsets, produced at
the sides of the old plants, are also eligible.

The plants are to be allowed good ground ; and generally
for the principal supply, allot a situation in the full sun, for the
advantage of ripening the fruit in the best perfection ; let the
ground be well dunged and neatly digged, and lay it out into
beds four feet broad, allowing alleys between the beds from
eighteen to twenty inches to two feet wide, for the convenience
of going in occasionally to weed and water the plants, and gather
the fruit.

These plants should be set in rows lengthways the beds ; the
rows to be twelve or fifteen or eighteen inches asunder, and the
plants to be set at the same distance from one another in the
rows.

Or they may be planted in borders along the front and back
of espalier trees, or under walls, hedges, &c, or some may be
planted by way of an edging to borders, or where convenient :
the wood strawberries will succeed both in shady situations,
near bushes, trees, &c, and in a free exposure : but the other
sorts should generally be allowed an open sunny exposure.

It would be most advisable to perform this work of planting
in all the sorts, principally in moist weather, if possible ;
especially if done earlv in this month ; but not so material if
later.

456

THE PLEASURE

The principal sorts of strawberries for general planting, are
— the scarlet strawberry, the hautboy, the large Chili straw-
berry, the white and red wood strawberry, the pine-apple
strawberry, and the Alpine or most prolific strawberry, which is
remarkable for its fruitfulness ; for the plants continue to pro-
duce fruit from June to October, or November ; and if then
sheltered with a common frame and glasses, will sometimes, if
open mild weather, continue in a small production till near
Christmas : but generally allot most of the scarlet and hautboy
kinds for the principal supply ; and, of which, more abundantly
of the scarlet for the main plantation.

The old strawberry beds will now openly require to be kept
clear from large over-grown weeds ; or, towards the latter end
of the month, may begin to prepare for their winter dressing. —
See October.

THE PLEASURE OR FLOWER GARDEN.

PLANTING HYACINTHS, AND TULIP BOOTS, &c.

In the third or fourth week in this month it will be time to
begin to prepare for planting the choice hyacinth and tulip roots
for an early spring bloom.

Let the beds, &c, for these bulbs be digged or trenched one
or two spades deep, breaking the earth fine, and lay the surface
even : and let the beds be three feet and a half, or four feet
wide, laid somewhat moderately rounding, and rake the surface-
smooth.

Then, either the latter end of this month, or in October or
November, plant the bulbs in rows, lengthways the bed, six to
nine inches asunder, and the same distance in the row ; but not
nearer than six inches, and about three inches deep.

As to the method of planting in beds, may either draw drills
with a hoe, placing the bulbs bottom downwards in a row along
each drill, and cover them in with the earth ; or may be planted
in holes made either with a thick blunt-ended dibble, or the
large bulbs occasionally holed in with a garden trowel : or in-
stead of either of the above methods, may with a spade or rake,
trim the earth evenly off the surface of the bed, into the alley,
the depth required to plant the roots, which then place at a

Sep.] on flower garden. 45»

proper distance upon the surface of the bed, pressing them
gently, with the hand, a little into the earth ; then with the
spade cast the earth out of the alley evenly over the roots, the
depth as above.

May also plant some in the flower borders, and in pots,

boxes, &c, likewise hyacinths in bulb glasses of water. See

October.

Any other bulbous roots may likewise be planted towards
the middle and end of this month.

RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONES.

Now also, about the middle, or towards the latter end of this
month, begin to prepare the beds for the best ranunculuses and
anemone roots ; and may then either be planted at that season,
or any time after, till the end of October or November, in open]
mild, dry weather : either in separate beds, alone, or some in
assemblage in the borders, Kc

Let these roots be planted each sort separate, in rows length-
ways the beds, not less than six inches asunder, by four, to five
or six inches distant in the row, and about two inches deep.

The above distance is more room than what is generally
allowed to ranunculuses and anemone roots: but when planted
closer, the plants shoot up in a crowded manner, draw each
other up weak and the flowers never grow so large, nor show
themselves to such advantage, as when they stand more distant.

SOWING ANEMONE AND RANUNCULUS SEED.

The beginning of this month is still a proper time to sow the
seeds of anemones and ranunculuses, where it was not done in
August.

For that purpose, being furnished with one 01 more largish
wide pots, or flat earthen garden pans or boxes, &c. : fill them
with rich light earth, making the surface even ; then scatter
the seeds thereon moderately thick, each sort separate, and
(over them with light fine earth, not more than a quarter of an
inch deep.

The plants will come up in about six weeks or two months, '
tvhen they must have a warm sunny situation, and should be
protected in winter, occasionally, from excessive rains, snow,
and hard frost ; but they sometimes, when sown thus late, do
not come up till the spring.

About the Michaelmas twelvemonth, they should be trans-
planted into a bed of common earth, and in the spring following

458

THE PLEASURE

they will flower, when, perhaps, they will afford you several
new flowers that are double, and of fine colours.

As for the single flowered kinds, the best of them may be
deposited in clusters about the common borders, &c.

CARNATION LAYERS.

Take care now of the carnation layers ; where there are any
still remaining on old plants, and properly rooted, let them be
transplanted now as soon as convenient, some time before the
latter end of the month, that they may have time to take good
root before winter.

The choicest kinds of these layers you may plant in small-
pots for the more readily protecting them in winter. The
layers of the common sorts you may plant into nursery beds in
a warm situation, and some of the strongest layers may be plant-
ed out at once into the borders, or where you intend them to
flower.

Any carnation layers as were planted off as above, last month,
or early in this, should, if a warm dry season, have occasional
waterings. — See June, July, Sfc.

AURICULA PLANTS IN POTS.

Auricula plants in pots demand attention at this time ; and
particularly those that were shifted last month, to give occa-
sional waterings ; but, if they were not then shifted, it may
not be effected.

These plants should, if the weather proves at this time very
dry, be now and then moderately watered ; but, if there should
fall much heavy rain about the end of the month, it will be 01
advantage to defend the capital sorts occasionally ; for inces-
sant and excessive wet at that time might prove rather injurious
in some degree to these plants, on- account of their natural
succulency.

To protect the choicest kinds of these plants in bad weather
the most effectually during the winter, let the pots, about the
latter end of this month, or in October, be placed close toge-
ther in a bed, open to the full sun ; then to form a low awning
across with hoop bends, or rods, &c, and when autumnal and
winter rains, or snows, &c, are excessive, let some large thick
mats, or canvass, be drawn over to defend the plants ; or the
pots may be set close together in a garden frame, and the glasses
put on as occasion requires, which will be more effectual ; but
let them be fully exposed in all moderate dry weather.

Sep-] or flower garden. 459

However, it may be proper to observe, that as the above
means of occasional shelter may not always be conveniently
attainable, these plants are hardy enough to stand the winter
Without that assistance ; only it is of good effect in preserving
them more effectually in proper strength and good state of
growth, that they may flower in best perfection.

But where there are no such conveniences as above it will
in that case be proper, at the end of the month, to place the
pots in a warm border ; and in heavy autumnal and winter rains
and snow may turn them down on one side, with the plants
towards the sun, to prevent them receiving too much mois-
ture.

Auricula offsets may still be detached and planted.

AURICULA SEED.

The seed of auricula may still be sown, when not done in
August.

These seeds should at this time be sown in large white pots,
or m boxes filled with earth. Let the earth be light and rich
and broken very fine, and the seed should be sown tolerably
thick, and covered a quarter of an inch, or thereabouts, with
earth.

The pots or boxes should be placed out of the mid-day sun
till towards the end of this month, and then set in a warm
situation.

The auricula plants raised from this sowing will flower the
next spring twelvemonth.

TRANSPLANTING PERENNIAL PLANTS.

Dig and prepare borders towards the latter end of the month
for planting various perennial and biennial flowers; and in
which may then transplant some of the strongest and best plants
which were raised in the spring and beginning of summer, or
before, according to the different sorts.

They may be transplanted any time after the middle of the
month: such as carnations, pinks, and sweet williams; also
.he seeding wall-flowers, stock gilliflowers, and columbines,
with many other sorts, both seeding plants, and such as were
raised from slips, offsets, layers, pipings, &c.

In selecting the above, or any of the various different sorts or
Oerennials, &c, for the decoration of your borders, or other flowei
tompartments, generally choose a proper variety, more or less
and if not furnished therewith in your own garden, may obtain

460

THE PLEASURE

them as required at most of the nurseries ; — observing in either
of which, to prefer those of the fullest good growth according to
their kinds : and as many sorts both of seedling plants, and
others raised from layers, pipings, slips, offsets, &c, may now
be readily transplanted with small balls of earth about their roots,
it should be done accordingly, and the plants will thus scarcely
feel any check by removal ; or let others be removed with as
full roots as possible, planting the whole, in the allotted places,
in a varied order ; and give directly an immediate watering to
settle the earth closely about the roots.

They will soon take root the same season, and will all flower
next year in good perfection.

SOWING SEEDS OF BULBOUS FLOWER ROOTS.

The seeds of tulips may still be sown, and also the seeds of
hyacinths and crown imperials, with the seeds of fritilars, and
of most other bulbs.

These seeds may be sown in beds or boxes : they will suc-
ceed in either; let the earth be rich and light, and broken very
fine, and lay the surface perfectly smooth.

Then sow the seed separately on the surface, and tolerably
thick, and cover them with light sifted earth, near half an inch
deep. — See August.

CLIPPING AND PLANTING BOX EDGINGS.

Clip box edgings where it was omitted in the two former
months, but let this be done as soon in the month as possible,
that the box may have time to recover a little before winter.

Now is the time to begin to plant box where new edgings
are intended ; but, if very dry hot weather, this should not be
done in any considerable extent till towards the middle of the
month : or however, if but moderately warm weather, or some-
what moist season, it may be planted at any time now when
required, or opportunity serves, as there is no time in the year
in which box will take root sooner ; giving a good watering as
soon as planted. — See October, &c.

Likewise where there are edgings of box that have been
suffered to run up too high and broad, in a rude growth, they
may now be taken up and replanted in regular order ; observ-
ing, when taken up for that purpose, to let a quantity of the
best plants of short bushy growth be planted or slipped, with
roots to each slip ; the root and top properly trimmed, and

Oil FLOWER GARDEN.

461

immediately planted again in a close, low, neat edging. See

October, &c.

This is also a good time to repair any former planted box
edgings where wanting ; therefore, where there are any gaps
or deficiencies, let them now be mended : the box will be root-
ed in a month after planting, and the edgings will then appear
neat all winter.

For the method of planting these edgings in either of the
above cases, see October.

TRIMMING AND PLANTING THRIFT EDGINGS.

Cut or trim thrift edgings, where grown disorderly or spring
out considerably in an irregular manner ; in which case cut in
the two sides evenly, and cut off any remaining decayed flowers,
and let any irregularity at top be reduced to proper order.

Likewise may now plant edgings of thrift ; either planted close
in the method of planting box, or by dibble, so as to fcrm a
regular edging, or planted only about two inches asunder ; well
watered.

CLIPPING HEDGES.

Finish clipping all such hedges as still remain untrimmed ;
and let this be done in the beginning of the month, before the
shoots get too hard.

In clipping hedges, always take particular care to have the
shears in perfect good order, that you may be able to make
both neat and expeditious work. Let the sides of the full grown
hedges be always clipped in nearly to the former year's cut, and
as straight as possible : for it looks ill to see the sides of gar-
den hedges much wavered by irregular clipping ; and generally
observe to clip a hedge in such a manner, as it may run some-
what narrowing upwards, that the top may be gradually a little
narrower than the bottom, and keep a good eye in cutting the
top regularly even.

Observe, in clipping young hedges under training, to have
particular care not to cut them too close down above, but run
the top off regularly, so as the stronger and more moderate
shooting plants may advance as equally as possible ; and cut
the sides with similar care.

GRASS AND GRAVEL WALKS, AND LAWNS.

Mow grass walks and lawns, and let this be always done in
proper time, never permitting the grass to grow rank, for that

.;62 THE PLEASURE [Sep.

not only appears disorderly on principal garden lawns, &c.
but when grown very rough, it cannot be cut with proper re-
gularity, to form a close even surface ; and generally observing,
at this time, to mow as close and even as possible ; whereby
to have a close, firm, regular bottom, against winter, that it may
remain agreeably neat all that season.

Likewise let the rough edges of all grass lawns, &c, adjoin-
ing gravel walks, and principal borders, and other, similar
compartments, be also cut close and neat, with a pair of grass
shears, cutting in the loose grass close to the firm edge, which
gives an additional neatness in the general appearance.

Roll gravel walks, at least once or twice every week, for they
will not look well, nor be agreeable to walk upon, without they
are well rolled ; and let these walks be always kept very neat,
not suffering weeds or any litter to appear on them ; and should
be occasionally swept clean from all loose litter, leaves, &c,
before they are rolled.

REGULATING THE FLOWER BORDERS, SHRUBBERIES, &c

Continue keeping the general flowerborders, and other similar
districts always very clean, and in the most neat order, — hoeing
and clearing away all weeds, decayed flower stalks, dead leaves,
and other rubbishy litter ; and occasionally rake the surface
clean and smooth.

On this occasion, should now eagerly go round the borders
and shrubbery compartments about once a week, and cut down
the decayed flower stems of such plants as are past flowering ;
for it looks ill to see dead stems standing up among the
growing plants, or such as are still flowering in their proper
season.

And should also now look over the plants in general, both of
the herbaceous and shrubby tribe, to regulate any disorderly
growth, such as where any very strong rambling, or long run-
away shoots occur, or any of a disorderly straggling nature ;
and either cut them out, or prune them to some regularity,
according to their order of growth, clearing out also all decayed
parts, and large glaringly withered leaves, &c, that the whole
may thus be continued in some tolerably regular order, of a
clean, neat, lively appearance.

Continue also to tie up to stakes such plants as need support
or have been overturned by winds, or borne down by hesvy
rains, &c. : training them in an upright orderly manner, secure
in their places, and in proper regularity.

Sep.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

468

About the middle or latter end of this month, begin digging
vacant beds and borders, &c, or such where the plants have
mostly declined flowering, both to prepare them for the recep-
tion of any plants or roots intended ; also to kill weeds most
effectually, and to give a clean neat appearance.

PROPAGATING FIBROUS ROOTED PERENNIAL PLANTS.

This is the time to slip and plant out many kinds of fibrous-
rooted perennial plants, to increase them ; such as rose cam-
pion, scarlet lychnis, catchfly, and campanulas, &c.

Where these plants are grown into large tufts, it will be pro-
per either to take the roots entirely up and part them, or slip
the outward offsets as the plants remain in the ground ; and
plant some of the best slips again in the borders, or places
where they are to flower ; the smaller slips may be planted
together in a bed, to remain to get strength.

Likewise, for increase, may now slip or part the roots of dai-
sies, polyanthuses, and auriculas, gentianella, London pride,
Christmas rose, white saxifrage, thick-leaved purple saxifrage,
double camomile, and thrift, heart's-ease, &c, dividing or slip-
ping them as above : and the largest offsets may plant finally
in the borders, pots, &c, and the smaller ones in nursery beds ;
or, of the above, the double white saxifrage, is very commonly
planted in pots, both on account of its small granulous roots
being more readily preserved together, and for moving in the
said pots, when in bloom, to adorn fore courts, &c. ; and is
occasionally planted in little clusters in some principal
borders.

The double rocket, likewise, where it was not taken up and
parted last month for increase, may now be done ; the double
bachelor's buttons, with the double feverfew, may also now be
managed in the same manner.

The leonurous, double ragged robin, golden rod, perennial
sunflowers, and all other perennial fibrous-rooted flower plants
that have done flowering, may likewise now be propagated by
parting their roots ;# this being a good season to remove most sorts.

Now is also a good time to transplant the various knobbed
and fleshy rooted plants ; and also to propagate them by slip-
ping or parting their roots; such as peonies, fillipendula,
cyclamen, winter aconite, dens canis ; and the different sorts
of flag irises, monk's-hood, fraxinella, and all other such like
plants, may now he taken up and parted where necessary, and
transplanted into places where wanting.

454

THE NURSERY.

rSEP.

TRANSPLANTING FLOWERING SHRUBS.

Towards the latter end of this month it will be time to begin
to transplant many sorts of hardy shrubs and trees where
wanting.

But more particularly the evergreen kinds ; as for the deci-
duous sorts, that is, those that shed their leaves in winter it
will be advisable to defer any principal removal of them 'till
about the middle of next month, when they will have finished
their year's growth, determinable by their leaves decaying • and
from that time to the middle or end of March, you mav in'oDen
weather, transplant all kinds.

But however, when there is any planting particularly wanted
to be done, you may venture to remove most sorts of shrubs
any time after the twentieth of this month, giving a good water-
ing as soon as planted , and there will be no hazard of their
succeeding.

Let all such shrubs or trees as are transplanted at the above
time have a good watering, not only at planting, but if very dry
weather, and exposed to the full sun, repeat it once or twice •
they will not want any more, and they will soon strike root the
same season.

THE NURSERY.

Begin now, where not done in August, to prepare, dig, and
trench the ground where you intend to plant out a nursery of
young stocks for fruit trees ; and also where you intend to plant
nursery rows of young forest trees ; and any kinds of hardy
shrubs, the next month, or November, &c.
. By getting the ground for new plantations ready at this time
it will not only forward the business greatly, but also prepare
the ground the better to receive the advantage of rains, to mel-
low and moisten it, which will be a great advantage to the
plants in expediting their early rooting more effectually the same
season. *

TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS.

Towards the end of this month you may begin to remove or
transplant, m the nursery order, &c, where necessary, many
cmds of evergreen shrubs and trees, as those transplanted at this
time will freely take root.

Sep,]

THE NURSERY.

465

Particularly the common and Portugal laurels, laurustinus,
phillyreas, pyracantha, and arbutus, and many other kinds.

Observing as soon as planted, if dry light ground, it would
be of advantage to water them freely, to settle the earth close
to their roots.

TRANSPLANTING DECIDUOUS SHRUBS AND TREES.

In the last week of this month you may also begin to prepare
for nursery transplanting, many kinds of deciduous shrubs and
trees ; being such as shed their leaves in winter.

Particularly such hardy trees and shrubs, whose leaves at
that time began to decay, discovering that the plants have
finished their summer's growth and may be safely removed,
especially if the weather be somewhat moist. But in removing
any kind of shrubs or trees at this early season of autumn
planting, if the ground and the weather prove very dry, it
would be beneficial, as soon as transplanted, to give them a
good watering ; though, if very dry weather, it will be better to
defer all planting till next month or November.

There is, however, great advantage in making early planta-
tions next month, or November ; that is, in transplanting soon
after the leaf decays ; the plants having time to prepare for
taking fresh root before the frost sets in hard to prevent it ;
besides, such trees and shrubs as are transplanted early in the
autumn planting season will be so well established by next
summer, that the drought at that time cannot hurt them.

At this time, however, it is not advised to perform any gene-
ral nursery transplanting of deciduous trees and shrubs, but
only such whose leaves are decayed, or in a decaying state,
notifying the declined growth of the trees, &c, for that year;
and that it is required to have any such of particular sorts
transplanted as soon as possible, in the latter end of the month,
not sooner.

Likewise some sorts of young fruit trees, whose leaves are
now decayed, may also be transplanted in the latter end of this
month if necessary, to forward part of the business at the ear-
liest period of autumn planting ; but perform no general plant-
ing till the next month, or November,

STOCKS TO GRAFT OR BUD ON.

Prepare ground for transplanting a nursery of fruit-tree
stocks, for grafting and budding : either those raised from seed
in the spring, or from cuttings, layers, or suckers.

u 2

466

THE NURSEHY.

If in the last week in this month the leaves of any are de-
cayed, may begin to plant some into the quarters, or where in»
tended, especially if moist or showery weather ; otherwise not
to perform any general transplantation till the following month ;
they must be planted in rows two feet and a half asunder, and
the plants to be set fifteen or eighteen inches distant in the
rows.

PROPAGATING TREES AND SHRUBS, BY CUTTINGS.

Now begin to plant cuttings, of the young shoots of such
trees and shrubs as will grow by that method.

By cuttings, the best gooseberries and currant trees are
abundantly raised : and towards the latter end of this month is
the proper time to begin to plant the cuttings ; which must be
the same year's shoots, of straight, clean growth ; cut off in
proper lengths about eight, ten, or twelve to fifteen or eighteen
inches ; and plant them in nursery rows twelve or fifteen inches
asunder, by half that distance in each row.

May plant also in the latter end of this month cuttings of
honeysuckles ; choosing firm young shoots, and cut them into
lengths of about nine, ten, or twelve inches ; and plant them in
rows ten or twelve inches distant, and six or eight inches in the
row ; and generally insert each cutting full half into earth.

Many other kinds of flowering shrubs and trees are raised by
cuttings of the same year's shoots ; and the middle or latter
end of this month is the time to begin to plant cuttings of many
of the hardy kinds.

This is rather the best time in the year to plant cuttings of
laurel and Portugal laurel.

These cuttings may be planted in a shady border any time
in this month, but about the middle or towards the latter end
is rather the best time to do that work.

In taking off these cuttings, choose the moderate strong
shoots of the same year's growth, about ten or twelve inches
long ; and cut off the leaves at bottom, and half way up the
shoots; and then plant them in a shady border, inserting each
cutting as far into the earth as the leaves are stripped off. and
water them.

PROPAGATING BY LAYERS.

May now begin the general propagation of many sorts of
iTees and shrubs by layers, towards the middle and latter end
of this month. — See Nursery, October.

Sep.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

467

CHERRY AND PLUM STONES TO RAISE STOCKS.

Sow cherry and plum stones, or preserve them to sow in
October, to raise stocks to graft and bud upon. — See October.

GENERAL CARE Ol' VOUNG NURSERY PLANTS.

Should now give particular good attention to all seed-beds
and nursery plantations of young plants of trees, shrubs, &c,
to have them thoroughly clean from weeds this month, whilst
the dry warm weather continues, before the heavy autumnal
rains set in considerably.

In this business should most carefully attend to clearing from
weeds all seed-beds and seeding rows of small young plants,
by occasional hand-weeding and hoeing, as they may admit ;
and, taking opportunity of dry days, hoe between transplanted
nursery rows of the different kinds of young trees and shrubs,
to cut' down and exterminate the present growth of autumnal
weeds, cutting them up radically out of the earth that they may
be destroyed effectually.

Continue giving water occasionally in dry weather to all
plants in pots ; also to any newly transplanted young trees and
shrubs, both in pot and the full ground.

Towards the latter part of the month begin to pot off singly
young tender plants raised this year, and remaining too thick
together in beds or pots, &c, and that require moving to some
protection in winter.

And, likewise, towards the latter end of this month, begin to
remove tender young trees, shrubs, and other plants in pots,
&c, to some warm situation, or place of occasional shelter from
frost.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.

In the last week of this month, or sooner, if the nights prove
cold, it will be proper to remove the orange-trees, and many
other green-house plants, into their winter quarters ; but if fine
weather, they may remain a week or a fortnight longer.

Let, however, the orange and lemons in particular, and such

468

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

like tenderest kinds, be taken into the green-house at the first
approach of cold nights ; for one sharp night would make their
leaves change their fine green colour ; and they would hardly
be able to recover it again all winter.

Therefore, at the time mentioned, if cold unfavourable
weather prevails, take the opportunity of a dry day, and carry
into the green-house the oranges, lemons, and other plants of
the more tender kinds, and particularly all the tender kinds
of succulent plants ; likewise the geraniums, which having soft
succulent branches, a touch of frost would injure them consi-
derably ; placing the whole in some tolerable order, till all the
other plants are housed next month, then placed regularly
together for the winter. — See October.

When the above plants are in the green-house, let the
windows be opened every mild day to their full extent ; but if
frost happen, or cutting winds sharply cold, or very damp
foggy weather, keep the house mostly shut, more or less, but
generally always close of nights.

At the time of removing the plants into the green-house, or
some time before, if any appear of irregular growth, either in
some ill-placed rampant shoots, long runaway ramblers, disor-
derly straggling growths, or the head irregularly crowded, let
them be pruned a little, with careful observation, to some regu-
larity in the general branches ; cutting out also any decayed
parts, and small withered or dead leaves.

Continuing, however, proper care of the general collection,
both in those removed into the green-house, and such as still
remain in the open air ; giving necessary waterings, but more
moderately towards the end of the month ; and if the earth in
any of the pots binds hard, loosen the top, and apply a little
fresh mould. — See October.

And let any green-house plants in want of larger pots be
• shifted therein the beginning or middle of the month, nor defer
it much later, if possible, that they may have time to strike some
fresh root before winter. '

Or any young green-house plants raised this year, or before,
from seed, slips, suckers, cuttings, &c, such as geraniums and
myrtles, growing several or many too closely together in pots,
or any in beds of natural earth, or under frames and glasses
should now be all transplanted into small pots, singly, the
teginning or middle of this month, and properly watered. Or,
'i any are very small, may plant two, three, or more, in a pot.

But such of the above plants raised from slips, cuttings, &c,

Se?0 the hot-house. 469

as are not yet properly rooted, or not much advanced in top
growth, may remain in their present pots till next sprint ot
autumn. °

Where any young myrtles, &c, of one or two years old, from
cuttings, where bedded into the full ground in May, to gain
good strength in the summer's growth, should now be trans-
planted with balls of earth to the roots into proper sized pots,
one plant in each, for removing into the green-house or in
proper frames under glasses, next month, giving them water
at planting, and afterwards occasionally.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

PINE- APPLE PLANTS.

If the succession of pine-apple plants, which are to produce
their fruit the next year, were not shifted into larger pots the
last month, that work should be done the first or second week
in this month at farthest ; otherwise the growth of the plants-
will be greatly retarded.

In shifting these plants you must observe to preserve the
ball of earth entire about the roots, placing them with parti-
cular care into the larger pots, and fill up the pots with fresh
compost; then stir up the bark-bed, to renew the heat, as
directed last month ; plunge the pots again therein to their rims
and give the plants a very moderate watering.

But in shifting and ordering these plants let the same rule be
observed as advised in the two last months.

But where the plants were shifted a month or five weeks
ago, and at that time no fresh tan added, it will now be proper
to examine the heat of the bark-bed, wherein the plants in.
general are plunged : and if you find it is very weak, stir up
the bark to the bottom with a fork, and plunge the pots again
immediately to their rims.

This will revive the heat of the bed, and will continue it in
a good condition till the next month, when they must be
removed into the fruiting-house, in a new bark-bed, made wholly
of fresh tan, where they are to remain, to perfect their fruit
next summer and autumn.

Younger succession pines, advancing in proper growth, to
succeed the above, if not only lately shifted, and in want of

470

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[Sep,

larger pots, should also be shifted therein as above. — See the
two last months and October.

ADMITTING AIR, AND WATERING.

You must observe to admit air to the plants in general in
the hot-house or stove departments, every day at this season,
in warm sunny weather, by sliding open either some of the
top lights, or upright glasses, or both occasionally, more or
less, according as the heat of the day increases and decreases :
shutting all close in due time towards the afternoon or the
evening.

The pine-apple plants will require moderate refreshments of
water, once in three or four days, if hot summer weather and
there is a brisk heat at bottom ; but if the heat in the bark-
bed is weak, once in a week will be sufficient ; especially after
the middle of this month.

ADDING FRESH TAN.

Aeoot the latter end of this month you should begin to pro-
cure a proper quantity of fresh tan from the tan-yards, to be
ready to renew the bark-beds in the hot-house and stove, &c,
the next month.

For this purpose you should provide as much new tan as
will be equal to one half at least of what the bark-pit will con-
tain, though sometimes two-thirds or more is required, accord-
ing as the old bark is more or less wasted ; but generally pro-
vide a sufficient quantity, rather to have to spare than be defi-
cient at the time it is wanted for immediate application in the
hot-house pit as above.

When the tan is brought in, let it be thrown up into a heap,
and let it lie for ten or twelve days to drain and ferment, before
it is put into the hot-house.

But if it is very wet, as is sometimes- the case when newly
thrown out of the tan vats, it should, provided the weather be
dry, be spread abroad thinly where the sun comes, to lie two
or three days, that the sun and air may draw off or exhale the
grossest of the moisture ; for if put in too wet, it will be a
long time before it will acquire a proper degree of heat.

The tan or bark for the above purpose should be fresh, such
as hath been about a fortnight, or three or four weeks, oui of
the tan-pits ; and also observing, that as some of the tan is
pretty large, and some quite small, the middle sized bark is
what should be chosen. — See October.

Sep.]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

471

CROWNS AND SUCKERS OF PINE PLANTS.

The bed wherein this year's crowns and suckers are plunged
should be kept to a good heat, by which means the young plants
will make good roots before winter.

If: they are in a good bark-bed, the heat will not yet want
any augmentation : but if the pots were placed upon a dung
hot-bed, either let a lining of fresh hot dung be applied to the
sides of the bed, when you find the heat is decreased ; or, if
the bed is much sunk, apply at present some fresh hot dung
at top, fifteen or eighteen inches thick, or more, laying, at top
of this, several inches of light earth, or tan, and in which
replunge the pots. — See July, August, and October.

And about the latter end of this month it will be proper to
lay some dry long litter or straw round the outsides of the frames,
which will keep out the frost, and preserve a kindly growing
heat in the bed.

When the nights begin to be cold, let some mats be thrown
over the glasses every night.

Raise the glasses a little in the middle of the day, to let out
the steam, and to admit air to the plants.

Give these young plants also occasional moderate water-
ings.

GENERAL CARE OF THE PLANTS IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

Continue the care of all other tender plants in the hot-house
or stove ; let them be carefully looked over, two or three
times a week, to see where water is wanted, as some will
require it every two or three days, and the generality will need
to be refreshed twice a week, if hot weather, particularly all
the woody and most of the herbaceous kinds, but less in the
succulent plants.

Observe nearly the same care in the general management as
in the two or three last months, both in giving air, watering,
cleaning, and shifting, where necessary, into fresh earth, or
larger pots ; as also to propagate by cuttings, layers, suckers, &c.

PREPARING COMPOST.

Prepare compost for the various plants of this department.

For the pines procure a quantity of light rich kitchen garden
earth, and, if possible, an equal portion of good light surface
loam, from a pasture-common or field, fee.; adding also a suppiy
of dry rotten dung ; blending the whole well together in a heap,

472

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Oct.

in the sun and full air ; and if it remains thus several months,
and turned over two or three times, it will be an additional
advantage.

Likewise, for the most of the shrubbery tribe and herbaceous
plants, in the hot-house, prepare a compost of any good light
garden earth, and light mellow surface loam, and dry rotten
dung.

But for the succulent tribe, should have a composition of the
lightest dry soils ; for as those plants themselves abound in
humidity, rich or moist strong soils would occasion them to rot,
especially those of a more fleshy, succulent growth.

OCTOBER.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
PLANTING EARLY BEANS.

The latter end of this month you may plant some beans for an
early crop the succeeding summer.

Those which are planted now, if they survive the winter's
frost, &c, will come in for use the end of May, or beginning of
June. ,

The mazagan bean is the best to plant at this season, for
they will come earlier than any other, and are excellent bearers,
though but of humble growth ; and they will stand the winter
better than the larger sorts; though as the beans are very
small, and as they should be gathered for use while quite young,
otherwise will be rank tasted, they are not eligible to plant for
any considerable crops, only a sufficiency to furnish the earliest
production ; planting a moderate portion now, to have a ehance
of some to gather in the earliest season ; but not to depend on
those wholly, as the plants in their early infant state, in winter,
are liable to be cut off by severe frost ; so should reserve a
larger planting for next month or December, and if they hap-
pen all to succeed, they will supply the table in regular suc-
cession.

A warm border under a south wall, or other south fence, is
the best situation to plant these beans in at this season.

Plant them in rows across the border ; that is, provided the
border is five or six feet wide ; and observing that the rows are

Oct.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN,

473

to be two feet and a half asunder, which will be room enough
for this sort ; and the beans to be planted about two or three
inches distant in the rows, and an inch and a half, or not more
than two inches deep.

You may also put one row lengthways of the border, within
two or three inches of the wall ; these will sometimes outlive
the winter, when those at a great distance from the wall are
cut oif.

But if the border is narrow, you had better plant only one or
two rows lengthways, that is, one row near the wall, and, if
the border admit of two rows, plant the other two feet and a
half from the first.

They maybe planled either with a blunt dibble, inserting
them in an inch and a half, or near two inches deep ; or, for
these small beans, it would be rather more eligible to draw
drills that depth, and drop the beans therein ; drawing the
earth over them an equal depth, as above.

In planting early beans, it often proves very successful first
to sow the beans pretty thick in a bed of light earth ; and when
come up an inch or two in height, transplant them into warm
borders, and other similar compartments.

The method is this : dig a bed about three or four feet broad
of good earth, in a warm situation ; this being done, draw the
depth of about an inch and a half, or near two inches of earth
equally off the surface, to one side ; this done, scatter the beans
about an inch asunder, and immediately cover them with the
earth which was drawn for that purpose off the bed ; or other-
wise you may either with a small spade, or a common hoe flat-
ways, draw broad drills across the bed, and scatter the beans
pretty thick in the drill, and draw the earth equally over them ;
and thus if severe frosts should prevail before they come up, or
in their infant state, while remaining all together in this bed.
or till danger from frost is past, they can be readily protected
from frost with frames, &c, or with hand-glasses, mats, or litter,
till fit to transplant.

When the beans are come up an inch, or an inch and a half,
or two inches high, or but very little more, they should then,
if mild weather, be transplanted in the above-mentioned bor-
ders, but many generally remain in the seed-bed to have occa-
sional protection from frost till towards the spring, then planted
out j taking them carefully up out of the seed-bed with their
full spread of roots, and as much earth as will hang about them ;
lull away the old beans at the bottom, and trim the end of the

l~i THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Oct.

perpendicular root ; and then planted in rows, at the same dis-
tance and in the manner above directed, observing to close the
earth well about every plant, they will soon take root and grow
freely.

By the above practice of sowing the first crop of these early
beans thickly together to have occasional protection for future
transplanting, proves often of good advantage ; as, either before
the plants are ready to be transplanted, or after they have ob-
tained a proper growth for that purpose, they can all be retain-
ed in the bed till danger from frost is past; and thus, both the
seed occasionally and the young plants, by being all contained
closely together within a small compass, can be readily protected
n winter from frost by pladng a frame or some other covering
over them, and by that means be preserved; when those m
the open ground are sometimes killed, or greatly damaged by
ihe frost; and the plants thus preserved can in proper time be
joon transplanted. ... , .

Besides the advantage of protecting them in their early minor
state, the beans by transplanting generally come into production
several days or a week sooner.

SOWING PEASE.

May now sow a first moderate crop of early pease, to have a
chance of an early production next summer, in May and June,
they may be sown in the middle or latter end of the month, and
the produce will come in at an early season, provided they
escape the frost ; but however, if they are sown any time m the
month, it will not make a great difference ; and indeed those
sown in the latter end of the month will have the better chance
to succeed

The earliest hotspurs are the proper sorts of pease to sow at
this time. Choose such seed as are new, plump, and sound.

There are several sorts of the hotspurs ; such as the golden
the Charlton, the Reading, and the master, &c., all very good
pease, and plentiful bearers, and produce good handsome sized
pods, well filled ; and of which the Reading and master ho tspur
are the longest, but not quite so early as the others : and there-
fore either the Charlton, golden, and a variety thereof called
Nichols' early golden, are generally preferable to sow lor the
first early crops.

A warm south border, under a wall or other fence, is the pro-
per situation : and in which the pease must be sowed in anils
about an inch and a half deep, either lengthways or across the

Oct.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

475

border, according to its width ; if but narrow, have only one
drill lengthways, one or two feet from the wall, &c. ; sow the
pease therein moderately thick and regular, and directly earth
them over, not more than an inch and a half deep ; but where
the border is four, five, or six, to eight, or ten feet broad, it
will be proper to have the drills crossways ; observing, however,
if there are wall-trees, let the drills be three or four feet asun-
der, especially if intended to place sticks for the pea plants to
run upon ; in which, that distance being necessary, both to give
room for their growth, and to give sufficient space between the
rows to admit the free air and sun to the trees, in the advanced
growth of the pease.

In the latter end of this month or any time in November,
may sow some early dwarf pease thick together, in a bed 01
warm border, or in pots ; in order to have occasional shelter
from frost, for transplanting when an inch or two high, either
in a hot-bed for forcing, or remain as a reserve till towards
spring, to plant under a warm wall after danger when the frost
is over, to come in as substitutes in case those planted in the
borders are killed by the severity of the winter.

TRANSPLANTING AND SOWING LETTUCES.

Lettuces for the winter service, of the August or early Sep-
tember sowing ; stout plants of the Cos, hardy, and common
cabbage lettuce ; brown Dutch and Cilicia kinds, should, in
the beginning or middle of the month, be planted out in beds
of rich light earth, in a sheltered situation six or eight inches
asunder : they will supply the table before and after Christmas.

Likewise may plant some stout plants in frames, to attain
greater perfection for winter use. See last and next month.

Lettuce plants designed to remain where sown for winter
use, should now be cleared from weeds, and thinned where too
close.

The Cos and other lettuces which were sown in the middle
of September, to be planted in frames or under hand glasses,
and in warm borders, to stand the winter for spring use, and to
plant out in that season for an early summer crop, should 'now
be transplanted into the places where they are to remain all
winter ; this may be done about the middle or latter end of
this month ; or as soon as the plants are fit, advanced two or
three inches in growth.

Choose a light rich spot for these plants, in a dry, warm
situation, and where it lies well to the sun.

476

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Oct.

Mark out a bed or beds for them, the width and length of
one or more cucumber frames, and lay the surface somewhat
sloping to the sun, and rake it even.

Plant the lettuces therein, about three inches distant each
way; close the earth extremely well about each plant: take care
that they are not planted too deep, and let the surface of the
ground between the plants be left perfectly smooth ; then give
them a moderate watering, to settle the earth to their roots.

Then put on the frames, and cover them with the glasses in
cold nights, and in frosty or very wet and cold weather ; but
have the free air in mild dry days, &c. ; by which means these
may be saved, and will be ready to plant out in the spring, as
a sure substitute, in case those which were planted in the open
borders are killed ; and if both succeed, they will supply the
table in successional order.

You may also plant some of these lettuces under bell or
hand-glasses, either alone, set three or four inches asunder, to
the extent of the glasses, or pricked under those where cauli-
flowers are planted ; placing them round the outside of the
cauliflower plants ; (See Cauliflowers) ; and in the spring must
be transplanted into the open ground : or if not accommodated
with frames and glasses, or hand-glasses, &c, you may plant
them in a bed in a warm situation, and then place a low awning
across, and cover with mats occasionally, in cold nights, heavy
rains, frosty and other inclement weather. Or in want of the
above conveniences, prick a quantity in a south border, close
under the wall, &c.

Likewise the lettuce plants which were sown the end of
August or beginning of September, to stand in the open air all
winter for next spring and early summer supply, should be
transplanted into the places intended, about the middle or some
time in this month.

These you may plant in warm borders, to stand the winter
without covering ; and if the winter should prove mild, they
will cabbage early in the spring.

Let these be planted four or five inches apart, and plant one
or two rows close under the wall, which will sometimes live
through the winter, in a firmer state than those at a greater dis-
tance and more exposed to the severity of the weather.

Sow a few hardy cabbage lettuce, common cabbage, and
brown Dutch, and some Cos, in a warm dry situation the
Beginning of this month, either to have protection of a frame,
&c, or to stand the winter without covering ; and if they

Oct.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

477

survive the frost, will afford a very seasonable supply early in
spring.

CAULIFLOWER PLANTS.

Cauliflower plants which were planted in frames the last
month, to forward them for final transplanting the latter end
of this mouth under bell and hand-glasses, must be constantly
uncovered night and day for the greatest part of this month,
unless the weather should prove very wet and cold ; then, in
that case, put the glasses on every night, and even in the day-
time, during the time of heavy rains ; but let the plants at such
times have air, by setting up the lights considerably behind.

In the last week in this month transplant finally some of the
best cauliflower plants into a warm quarter of rich ground, under
hand-glasses, in rows four feet asunder, where they are to
remain to produce their heads early next summer.

These are to be covered with hand or bell-glasses all winter,
generally planting three, or four, to five, or six plants under
each glass ; and if they all survive the winter, then in the spring
to thin them, leaving only one or two of the stoutest plants in a
place ; and those thinned out are proper to plant in another
compartment, to succeed the hand-glass crop. See the spring
months.

The ground for this early bell or hand-glass crop of cauli-
flowers should be rich and light, in a warm situation, and where
water is not apt to stand in winter. Let some good rotten
dung be spread over the place, and then let the ground be dug
one spade deep, and well broken, taking care to bury the dung
regularly.

Then mark out the ground into beds three feet wide, and
allow alleys a foot wide between the beds, for the conveniency
of going in to take off, and put on, or raise the glasses. Set
your line along the middle of the bed, from one end to the
other ; and at every three feet and a half mark the places for
the glasses, and for each glass put in three or four more plants,
towards the middle, within four inches of each other, and close
the earth well about their roots and stems, then give them
a very moderate watering, just to settle the earth to the roots.

When the whole is planted, bring your hand or bell-glasses,
and set them ready ; observing to place one glass, over every
patch of plants, as above.

The glasses are to be kept constantly close down over the
plants, till they have taken good root, which will be effected in

478

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Oci.

about a week or ten days ; then raise one side on props, either
of small pieces of wood, stone, or brick-bats, &c, about two
or three inches thick, or notched wooden pegs, or forked sticks ;
placing them on the south side, one prop under each glass. In
this manner the glasses are to remain night and day, except in
frosty weather, when they must be let down quite close ; but
if the months of November and December prove mild and dry,
and the plants are much on the growing order, it will be pro-
per to set the glasses off in fine dry days, and keep them always
over the plants in nights and rainy weather ; but in keeping the
glasses over to defend the plants from excessive or incessant
rains, if open mild weather, they must be. raised two or three
inches on the warmest side with props above hinted, to admit
air to the plants.

But if you are not provided sufficiently with hand or bell-
glasses, or frames, you may plant some cauliflower plants out
for good on a warm border, where they will sometimes survive
the winter, and produce good heads.

But where this is obliged to be practised, it will also
be proper to put in a parcel of the plants, close under the
wall, setting them about four inches apart, and these will
have a chance to live, if those at a greater distance from the
wall should be destroyed, and in the spring the superabun-
dant may be thinned out and transplanted into an open spot
of ground.

The cauliflower plants which are to be kept all winter in
frames should also towards the end of this month, if not done
in September, be transplanted into their proper winter beds of
light rich earth the dimensions of one or more garden frames,
as explained, in August ; and the frames at the same time be
placed over them.

But observe, if the plants are now but small, or backward in
their growth, it will be an advantage to make a slight hot-bed
in a trench : making it only about eighteen inches thick of dung,
covering the top five or six inches deep of earth, and put in the
plants. See August.

The plants are now to be set in either of the beds three or
four inches asunder, moderately watered, put on the glasses
close for a week, which will forward their taking fresh root
sooner and more effectually ; then give, air by first tilting or
shoving them down three, four, or five inches, the first three or
four days or a week, and should then be drawn quite off every,
mild dry day, (see August) ; and are to be defended all winter

Oct.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

47a

occasionally with the glasses, according to the directions given
in each month.

Or, for want of frames and glasses, may plant some in a bed
arched over with hoop-bends, or rods, and defended every night,
and in bad weather with mats.

PLANTING CABBAGE PLANTS AND COLEWOKTS.

About the middle or latter end of this month, you may plant
out some of the strongest early cabbage plants, in the place where
they are to remain for cabbaging early next summer.

Choose a piece of good ground for these plants, in a dry lying
situation full to the sun; and let some good rotten dung be
applied ; then dig the ground regularly one spade deep, bury-
ing the dung equally that depth, as you proceed in the digging.

The plants are then to be planted in rows eighteen inches dis-
tant in the row, and allow the same distance between the rows,
which will be room enough for this early plantation, as most of
them will be used before they grow to any considerable size.

Or some may be planted out closer, in rows only twelve or
fifteen inches asunder, to thin out early in small hearted young
growth, about April and May.

But let the principal supply of the early cabbage plants
remain in the nursery beds in a warm situation, till January,
February, or March, before you plant them out for good ; fol
it sometimes happens in severe winters, that many of the plants
which are planted out early into a more open exposure, are
killed by the frost.

In that case you can have recourse to the nursery beds
to make good the effects, or to make new plantations.

Where there are cabbage plants that still remain in the seea
bed, let a quantity be transplanted into nursery beds the begin-
ning of this month, that they may have time to get some strengtk
before the frosty weather begin, planting them in a warm
situation, in rows five or six inches asunder, by three or foui
inches in the row.

Coleworts of the cabbage kinds should now be finished plan-
ting for spring supply. See September.

HOEING BROCCOLI, CABBAGES, AND ALL THE YOUNGER
CABBAGE TRIBE.

Give now a general hoeing in dry days to the younger late
planted broccoli, cabbages, and all the young cabbage tribe of
some advancing growth in their transplanted state : both to kill

i80

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Oct.

weeds, and to loosen the soil, whereby to forward and strengthen
the plants.

This would now prove very beneficial culture, not only to the
late planted advancing young broccoli, and cabbages, but also
to coleworts, savoys, borecole, &c. ; taking opportunity of dry
weather, and with a good hoe cut up all rising weeds, loosing
the ground neatly between and about the plants, and hoe some
earth closely about their stems ; and this will forward and
strengthen their growth as much as possible before winter;
mid render them more able to stand the rigours of the weather
in that season.

WINTER SPINACH.

Winter spinach must now be kept exceeding clean from
weeds ; for if these are permitted to grow, at this time, they
would soon over-run the plants, and totally destroy or greatly
injure the crop. These plants are at this season best cleared by
hand, particularly where there is chick-weed, and such like
spreading or running weeds.

Where the spinach was not properly thinned last month, let
that work be now done in a proper manner, and do it in the
beginning of the month.

In doing this, observe to clear away the worst, and leave the
strongest plants standing at the distance of about three to four
or five inches from one another.

Or the plants may only be moderately thinned now, in order
to admit of thinning out some, for use by degrees, this and the
ensuing winter months, and in the spring.

In this month some of the spinach of the August sowing will,
be fit to gather ; observing, if the plants were left too thick,
let some be thinned out regularly by the root for use ; but if
the plants were more properly thinned, gather only the outward
large leaves, and the others will advance for use in a successive
order.

ENDIVE.

Continue every week to tie up some full grown endive plants
for blanching.

Choose a dry day to do this, observing always to make
choice for this purpose of such plants as are quite or neatly full
grown. Let the leaves be gathered up regularly, and close in
the hand, and then, with a piece of strong bass, tie them neatly
together.

Oct.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

481

Some people blanch or whiten endive by laying boards or tiles
flatways on the plants. The plants will whiten tolerably by
this method, but not so regularly effective and full in growth as
those whose leaves are tied together as above directed.

Plant out the late crop of young endive the beginning of this
month, if not done in September, in a warm dry south border,
for late winter and spring supply.

Or to preserve late young endive in winter more securely,
both from rotting by great wetness of the ground, and from
the effects of frost, may, in the beginning of this month, prepare
a sloping bank of light earth in a warm situation, the sloping
side fronting the south sun, raised two or three feet higher
behind ; and having some good middling endive plants, deposit
them, in the common method of planting, into the south side of
this sloping bed, tolerably thick or close, that it may contain a
proper quantity ; and, in the ensuing winter, at the approach
of severe weather, may place a frame and glasses over the bed,
or cover' the plants occasionally with mats, or thickly with dry
long litter in rigorous frosts ; they will thus more effectually
continue in some moderate growth, and be not so liable to rot as
in the common level ground, where inclinable to be very wet
in winter season ; and being also warmer situated in the sloping
bed full to the sun, and having occasional protection as above,
will be better preserved in frosty weather.

DRESSING THE BEDS OF AROMATIC PLANTS.

Now clear the beds of aromatic plants from weeds, and lev
them have the winter dressing.

This must be particularly observed in the beds of sage,
savory, thyme, marjoram, and hyssop ; and also the beds of
mint, balm, tarragon, tansey, camomile, pennyroyal, burnet, and
sorrel ; and all other beds of aromatics, and potherbs.

These are now to be treated in the following manner : —

Cut down all the decayed flower stems close to the head 01
the plants, or to the surface of the ground, according to th
nature or growth of the different sorts, and at the same tim :
clear the beds very well from weeds and litter, and carry th
whole off the ground.

After this, it would be proper, in beds where the plants
stand distant from one another, to lightly dig or loosen the
ground between them ; or, in old beds, it would be a great
advantage to get some very rotten dung, and let it be broken
small, then spread a sprinkling of it equally over the surface

x

482

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Oct.

of all the &eds ; however, where room, as above, having a
small spade or trowel, dig lightly between such of the plants
as will admit, taking care if any are dunged, to bury the dung
a little depth in the ground ; and at the same time, if they are in
beds with alleys between, dig the alleys, spreading a little of
the loose earth upon the beds, leaving the edges full and straight.

Thus the beds will appear decent all the winter, and the
plants will reap much advantage from such a dressing, as will be
seen in spring, when they will begin to shoot.

But the bed of close growing running plants, as mint, pepper-
mint, and pennyroyal, and such like creeping rooted herbs,
will not well admit of digging ; therefore let the stalks, if any,
be cut down close to the ground ; then hoe, rake, and clear the
beds from weeds, and then dig the alleys, and strew some of the
earth evenly on the beds.

This will both give a proper cultural neatness, and protect
the roots of the mint, &c, and the rains will wash in the virtue
of the earth which was thrown out of the alley, and the whole
will greatly enrich the beds and strengthen the roots j and in
the spring the plants will rise with vigour.

RAISING YOUNG MINT AND TARRAGON IN WINTER.

Where young mint and tarragon is required in the winter
season, preparations should now be made to raise some.

For that purpose a slight hot-bed must be made towards the
end of the month for a one or a two-light frame, or according to
the quantity required ; and make it about two feet or two and
a half thick of dung.

Then set on the frame, and cover the bed about four to five or
six inches deep with earth ; get some roots of mint, and either
place them in drills, or lay them close together upon the surface,
and cover them with earth about an inch thick, and plant the
tarragon by making apertures in the earth ; and "give each a
moderate watering.

Put on the glasses and observe to raise them behind every
day to admit air.

The plants will come up fit for use in a fortnight, or three
weeks, and afford a gathering of young green shoots in great
plenty, for a considerable time.

PLANTING AND SLIPPING HERBS.

Plant out early in this month any aromatic plants where
wanted ; 'such as thyme, hyssop, sage, winter savory, and pot

Oct/]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

483

marjorum ; choosing good rooted young plants, and plant them
in four feet wide beds, or in any warm borders, in rows a foot
asunder.

May also divide and plant roots of mint, in drills six inches
asunder, and an inch and a half deep. — See March, Ifc.

Likewise may slip and plant balm, tansey, tarragon, marjorum,
burnet, sorrel, pennyroyal, camomile, &c, preserving the slips
of a tolerable size, with good roots to each, and plant them in
rows a foot asunder.

WINTER DRESSING THE ASPARAGUS BEDS.

As the asparagus stalks have now done growth, and the seed
berries ripe, where required to save the seed, they should at
any time this month, or beginning of next, be cut down, and
the beds have the proper winter dressing.

Let the stalks or haum be cut down close to the surface o
the beds ; carry them immediately off the ground ; then with
a sharp hoe cut up all the weeds, and draw them off the beds
into the alleys.

This done, stretch the line, and with a spade, mark out the
alleys, from about eighteen inches to two feet wide, according
to the width they were first made.

Then dig the alleys one spade deep, and spread a consider-
able part of the earth evenly over the beds ; and, as you ad-
vance in digging, let the weeds, which were raked off the beds
into the alleys, be digged into the bottom, and cover them a
proper depth with earth. In digging these alleys, observe to
do it in a neat manner ; that is, let an equal quantity of earth
be laid over every bed, and make the edges of the beds full and
straight ; the alleys should be digged all of an equal depth, and
the surface of the beds be left even and regular.

But as old asparagus beds will need an augment of dung
once in two or three years, and that when designed to assist
them therewith, this is the time to do it ; but the manure or
dung must be applied before the alleys are digged, or the beds
landed up.

The dung for that purpose must be very mellow, rotten, and
none is more proper than the dung of old cucumber or melon
beds : this must be spread over the beds when the haum and
weeds are cleared off ; let this dung be well broken, and lay it
an equal thickness, or at least one to two or three inches, in
every part ; point it in a little with an asparagus fork : then
dig the alleys as above directed, and spread a due quantity ot

48<t

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Oct

the earth of each alley over the dung and surface of the beds,
as above directed.

When the asparagus beds have thus had their winter dress-
ing, if dry-lying ground, there may be planted in each alley a
row of coleworts, or cabbage plants ; set the plants six or eight
inches distant in the row.

In this situation such plants will, in severe winters, some-
times survive the frost ; when those which are planted in open
or level spots are destroyed.

Or there may occasionally be planted in each alley a row o*
early garden beans.

The asparagus which is intended for forcing should also now
have their stalks cut down, and the weeds drawn off the beds
into the alleys, as above, in the common asparagus beds ; then
dig the alleys to bury the weeds, and, as you proceed, spread a
little of the earth also over the beds.

But that which is to be digged up for forcing this winter need
not have any thing more done than to cut down the haum or
stalks of the plants.

The seedling asparagus which was sown last spring should
also now have a little dressing.

That is, to clear the bed from weeds, and then spread an inch
or two in depth of dry rotten dung over the bed, to defend the
crowns of the plants from frost.

FORCING ASPARAGUS FOR WINTER USE.

Where forced asparagus is required for use in winter, may
now begin to make hot-beds for raising the first crop, for gather-
ing in November and December ; and for the method, see Feb-
ruary and December.

If a constant succession is required all winter and spring, a
new hot-bed, planted with fresh plants, must be made every
three or four weeks, from the beginning or middle of October,
to the end of February or March ; which will furnish a con-
stant supply of asparagus from November till the arrival of the
natural crops in the open ground, in April or May.

Or when required to have forced asparagus as early as pos-
sible in the beginning of winter, may make a hot-bed, and plant
some asparagus roots therein in the middle or latter end of Sep-
tember, and they will begin to afford a production of small or
moderate shoots for gathering in the second or third week in
November.

Oct.!

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

483

EARTHING UP CELERY AND CARDOONS.

Celery should now be very duly earthed up according as it
advances in height, in order that the plants may be well
blanched a due length before severe frosts attack them.

Therefore take advantage of dry days, and earth them up
properly on both sides of each row. Let the earth be well
broken, and lay it up to the plants, with care not to break the
leaves or bury the hearts of them, landing them at this time
considerably high, according to their growth.

Likewise to cardoons now give a general full earthing, in
open dry weather, and when the leaves of the plants are dry.

In earthing these plants, observe, at each time, first to tie
with a hay band their leaves close together, gathering the leaves
up regularly.

Then let the earth be well broken, and lay it up equally of a
proper thickness, and some considerable height about every
plant. — See September.

SMALL SALAD HERBS.

Where a constant succession of small salad herbs is required,
continue to sow the seeds accordingly ; particularly mustard,
cresses, radish, and rape ; as also cabbage lettuce, to cut while
young.

Let these seeds be sown now in a warm situation, full in the
sun.

But towards the end of the month, if the weather is cold, it
will, for the greater certainty of having a constant supply of
small salad, be proper to sow the seed in frames, to be defend-
ed with glasses ; and for which prepare a bed of light earth in
a warm situation, for one or more shallow frames ; and if laid
a little sloping to the sun, by raising the back part three or
four, to five or six inches, it may be an advantage ; break the
earth fine, and rake the surface smooth, ready for sowing the
seed.

Then either draw flat shallow drills from the back to the
front of the frames, about three inches asunder : sow the seeds
therein pretty thick, and cover them with earth not more than
a quarter of an inch deep, only just covering the seeds ; or may
smooth the surface with the back of the spade, sow the seed,
each sort separate, thickly all over the bed, then with the spade
smooth it down lightly into the earth, and sift fine mould over
it thinly, not more than half a quarter of an inch thick, or only

480

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Oct.

just to cover all the seed evenly, and as slightly as possible, at
this season.

The bed must be sheltered every night by putting on the
glasses, and also in the day time when the weather is very cold
or excessively wet.

Or, occasionally, for the above purpose, a sloping bed may
be prepared, ten or twelve inches higher in the back than th
front, sloping to the south sun ; set on the frame, sink the bad
part, &c, eight or ten inches, that the surface of the bed maj
be every where equally within eight or nine inches of the glass-
es, to enjoy the greater benefit of the sun in cold weather.

But in want of frames, the above salad seeds may, in cold
weather, be sown in a warm border, under hand or bell glasses.

Note. — Small salad will sometimes, when the season is mild,
grow free enough all this and next month in the open air, espe-
cially on warm south borders ; however, where these herbs are
constantly wanted, it will, for the greater certainty of having a
proper supply, be advisable to begin to sow some seed of each
kind either in frames or under bell or hand glasses, as above.

SOWING RADISH SEED.

You may now sow a small crop of short top and salmon
radishes, the beginning and towards the latter end of this month ;
the plants raised from those sowings, if the winter proves toler-
ably mild, will advance in growth, ready for drawing, some
probably next month, or in December and towards Christmas,
or after, if open weather, and if they should fail, the value of a
little seed is not much, and is worth the trial.

But this seed must now be sown on a south border, or
some warm dry situation, open to the sun ; and in order to
have a chance of regular succession, sow some both in the
beginning, and about the middle, or towards the latter end of
the month. Let each sowing be moderately thick, and rake the
seed well into the ground with proper regularity.

SOWING CARROT SEED

A little carrot seed may also be sown in the first or second
week in the month, on a warm border ; as sometimes, from
this sowing, there will be a chance of having a few young, car-
rots early next spring, provided the frost in winter is not very
severe.

Though as there is but little dependence on this crop, should
only sow a small portion for a trial.

OCT.!

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

iS7

DIGGING UP CARROTS, PARSNEPS, AND POTATOES, &c.

In the latter end of the month begin to dig up the main
crops of full-grown carrots, some best parsneps and red beet,
&c, and such other carrot-shaped esculent roots, to preserve
them in sand, to be at all times ready for winter service. — See
November.

About the middle, or towards the end of this month, begin
to dig up the general crops of potatoes to house for winter
use, for the roots will be now arrived to full maturity, and
should be taken up as soon as possible ; which as having now
attained their full growth, that if properly housed in a dry close
place, defended from wet and frost, they will keep good till
next spring and summer. — See that work directed in November.

DIGGING AND TRENCHING GROUND.

Such spaces of kitchen garden ground which are now vacant,
should, where intended.be dunged, and also digged and trenched,
that it may have the true advantage of fallow from the sun and
air in the water season.

But in digging and trenching those pieces of ground which
are to lie in fallow till the spring, that of each trench should
be turned up in a rough ridge longways ; for, by laying the
ground in this form, it not only lies much drier, but also the
frost, sun, and air can have access more freely to mellow and
enrich it, than if laid level : and in the spring, when you want
to sow or plant it, the ridges are soon levelled down, and the
soil thereby also improved and ameliorated.

The method of ridging or trenching ground is this : —

Let the trenches be marked out two feet, or not less than
two spades wide ; and beginning at one end of the piece, open
a trench the above width, and one full spade deep, or one spade
and a shovelling, or two moderate spades deep, according to
the depth of good soil, or, as may be occasionally required ;
and let the earth of this trench be carried to the other end, of
where you intend to finish or fill up the last trench.

The first trench being thus opened, then proceed to mark
out another ; which done, pare off the top with all the weeds
and rubbish thereon, into the bottom of the first ; then dig this
second trench, turning the earth into the open trench, throwing
it up ridgeways, longitudinally, as above-mentioned ; and when
you have dug to the end of the trench, may either shovel up
the crumbs or loose earth at bottom, throwing it up upon the

488

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Oct.

other earth of the ridge ; or otherwise double dig it ; that is,
without shovelling up the crumbs, dig the trench another spade
deep, if the depth of good soil admits, casting the earth upon
that of the first spit j then proceed to a third trench, and pare
and dig it as before ; and so proceed with every trench to the
end.

Such compartments of ground as are occasionally to be
dunged, should previously have the dung spread evenly over
the surface, and then should be equally buried a spade deep,
not more, in the bottom of each trench as you advance in the
digging.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

GATHERING WINTER PEARS AND APPLES.

Winter pears and apples should in general be gathered this
month. Some will be fit to take down in the beginning of the
month, others will not be ready before the middle, or towards
the latter end.

To know when the fruits have had their full growth, you
should try several of them in different parts of the tree, by
turning them gently upward ; if they quit the tree easily, it is
a sign of maturity, and time to gather them.

But none of the more delicate eating pears should be per-
mitted to hang longer on the trees than the middle of this month,
especially if the nights be inclinable to frost ; for if they are
once touched with the frost, it will occasion many of them to
rot before they are fit for the table, even if ever so good care
is afterwards taken of them ; and therefore, on the general
part, let neither apples nor pears remain longer on the trees
than the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, for
they will get no good after that time.

Observe, that in proceeding to gather the principal keeping
fruits, both of the apples and pears, generally choose a dry day
and when the trees and fruit are also tolerably dry, from about
ten or eleven o'clock till three or four in the afternoon ; observ-
ing likewise, that the capital fruits designed for long keeping
should all be carefully pulled one by one, and put into a basket,
taking care to lay them in gently, that they may not bruise one
another. s

Oct.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

489

According as the fruits are gathered, let them be carried into
the fruitery, or some convenient, dry, clean apartment; and.
if room enough, it would be proper to lay them carefully in
heaps, each sort by themselves.

Thus let them lie together about a week or fortnight, espe-
cially the principal keeping sorts, in order that the watery
uices may transpire ; as this will make them keep better, and
slso render their flavour much finer for eating, than if they were
.aid up for good as soon as they are gathered.

When they have lain that time, let all the choice keeping
fruit be then carefully wiped one by one with cloths, and lay
them up where they are to remain upon shelves and other
compartments in the fruitery, &c, and thickly covered with
clean dry straw.

Some of the finest eating pears and apples you may also
pack up in baskets, hampers, or boxes, &c, observing to put
some clean wheat straw at bottom, and also round the sides of
the baskets or boxes ; and when they are filled, lay some
straw at top, and then cover the whole with dry straw, a
considerable thickness, to exclude the damps and free air ;
for this is of considerable advantage in promoting their sound
keeping.

The more inferior or common kinds, for more immediate
and general supply, may be laid on the shelves and floor of the
fruitery ; first laying some clean straw, then lay the fruit upon
this, observing, if there is plenty of room, to let them be laid
only two or three layers thick, otherwise may lay them in
several layers one upon another ; covering the whole with dry
clean straw, a foot thick at least, to exclude the damp air,
frost, &c.i whereby the fruit will keep much better than if they
remained open, or but thinly covered, as the damps and air,
when fully admitted, hasten the decay of the fruit.

PRUNING AND NAILING.

About the end of this month you may begin to prune peaches
and nectarines, if their leaves are dropped ; and you may also
prune and nail apricots.

Before you begin to prune, it will be proper to unnail the
greatest part of the smaller branches ; then you can more
readily use your knife, and also can conveniently examine
the shoots, to see which are fit for your purpose, and which
are not.

But I would observe, that if the leaves are not wholly or

x 2

490

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Oct.

mostly fallen, it would be more advisable to defer proceeding
in any, general or principal pruning till next month, as while
the leaves are remaining on the trees you cannot readily dis-
cover or judge properly of the shoots, what are necessary to
retain or cut out ; however, where any trees are defoliated,
and it is thought convenient to commence pruning, let it be
done according to the following intimations, which will be
equally applicable in the ensuing months.

In procuring these trees, observe that, as they will now
mostly abound in numerous young shoots retained last summer,
the superabundant of which, and the irregular and improper,
must now be cut out, and to leave in every part a general
supply of the best and most regular placed of the said shoots
at moderate distances, that is, three or four to five or six inches
asunder, and in such regular order below and above, lower and
higher on the general branches, as they may seem advancing
one after another, quite from the bottom, as observed on
former occasions, in order that every part of the wall, from
the bottom to the extremity, every way of the tree, may be
regularly furnished with them ; for these bear the principal
supply of fruit next year; and observing, at the same time,
that some proportionable part of many of the former bearers,
and naked unfruitful wood, must be cut away, in a shorter or
longer extent, as may appear necessary, to make room to train
the young supply, pruning them less or more, as may seem
expedient ; either generally cut to some best well placed lateral
young wood they support, and this retained both as a terminal
leader to each branch thus pruned, and for next summer's
bearing ; or any of the said past bearers that are of improper
growth, or not furnished with bearing wood, cut quite out,
retaining young below to supply their places : for these trees
always produce their fruits upon the shoots of the last summer's
growth, that is, principally upon the one year's old shoots,
except occasionally on small spurs on the two or three years'
wood. — See January.

But in the course of pruning these trees, observe, by the
above rules, to cut out casual naked old wood according as
it becomes useless, that is, such branches as advance of consi-
derable length, and are not properly furnished with young
bearing wood. — See January.

In the next place, observe the young shoots must not be
crowded, or left too close together ; therefore examine with
good attention, and where the shoots stand too thick, let some

Oct.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

491

be accordingly cut out ; but in doing this, be careful to select
and retain a sufficiency of the most promising and best placed
shoots, for the general bearers, at proper regular distances as
above, cutting all the others out close.

The next thing to be observed is, that all these retained
shoots must now for the general part be more or less short-
ened : and this is done principally to encourage them to pro-
duce next summer, as well as fruit, a due supply also of bear-
ing shoots properly situated, to train for bearers another year.

For by shortening these shoots in the winter pruning, it
makes them more certainly produce next summer a successional
supply of lateral shoots in proper places ; and the shoots which
are then produced bear the fruit to be expected the year after
that.

But in shortening the shoots, mind to let every one be
shortened according to its growth and original length ; for
instance, a shoot of about a foot long may be pruned to about
seven or eight inches, or a little more or less, according to its
strength ; one of fifteen or eighteen inches in length, cut to
about ten or twelve ; and a shoot about two feet long may be
out to about fifteen or eighteen inches ; and so in proportion
to the length and strength of the different shoots, leaving the
strong shoots the longest.

The general rule of shortening the fruit shoots of these trees
is to cut off from about one half to one third or fourth of the
original length of the shoots, according to their strength ; being
oareful, however, not to prune below all the blossom buds,
except where you prune principally for wood, in which case
cut shorter accordingly ; but for fruit, observe, always, in
shortening, to leave a proper length, according to the situation
of their respective blossom buds ; the weak shoots are to be
pruned shortest, and the strong left longer in proportion.

But such peach, nectarine, and apricot trees as in general
produce strong and vigorous unfruitful shoots, must be treated
accordingly ; the shoots of such trees must be left somewhat
closer than in moderate shooting trees, and must also be short-
ened less in proportion. The rule to be observed in these is,
to cut out close the most rampant shoots, and retain the more
moderate growth, at only three or four inches asunder ; and
in shortening them, cut off no more than about one fourth of
their original length ; or some of the most vigorous shorten but
very little, and some not at all.

This is the only method of pruning to bring a vigorous shoot-

492 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [OcT.

ing tree to good order, so as to produce moderate shoots, such
as will bear fruit.

For the more wood you cut out of a vigorous tree, and the
more the shoots are shortened, the more vigorous will the tree
shoot.

By what is above hinted, the pruner will not be at a loss to
know in what manner peach, nectarine, and apricot trees are,
according to their different growth, to be treated in the article
of pruning; and the rule here mentioned is to be observed at
all times in the winter pruning.

Note. — Observe, that where any of the shoots, now retained
for the supply of general bearers, have produced any small lat-
eral shoots, from their sides, these should generally be cut off
close to the principal shoot, except in casual vacant spaces,
where may occasionally retain one or more of the best firm
growth.

Likewise, generally observe in pruning these trees, that in
shortening the shoots, to mind, if possible, to cut them at a
leaf or wood-bud ; distinguishable from the blossom buds by
being long and flat, and the others being round and swelling,
or otherwise prune to a twin-bud ; meaning where one or two
blossom buds arise at the same eye with a wood-bud : either
of which rules being necessary to be observed in shortening, in
order that each may produce a leading shoot next summer,
forming a terminal leader to each of the said main shoots or
bearers ; for a fair leading shoot, produced at or near the ex-
tremity of a bearing shoot or branch, draws the sap more freely,
and the branches more effectually produce free growing, regular
sized fruit of full growth,

Observe further, in pruning these trees, that as we often
see on the two year old branches some short shoots, or natural
spurs, about an inch or two in length, and on the said spurs
there are frequently several blossom buds, but they more gen-
erally occur in the apricot in particular, though they frequently
appear in the others, and are all equally eligible to retain for
fruiting : but have observed some primers cut these entirely
away; I however declare against that practice; for some of
these short natural spurs produce handsome fruit, both in apri-
cots, peaches, and nectarines.

But on the other hand, it will be proper to leave only such of
these spurs as are well placed, and promise by the blossom buds
to bear fruit ; and such as are naked, and also such as advance
considerably long in a fore-right direction, should be removed.

Oct.]

THE FKUIT GARDEN.

493

For some more general particulars in pruning these sort of
trees, see the work of January and February.

When you have finished pruning any one of the ahove trees,
let that generally be nailed to the wall in a proper manner,
nefore you begin to prune another ; for it is much the best
method to nail every tree according as you advance in the
pruning.

But some direct to leave these trees unnailed till the begin-
ning of March ; but this not only looks ill to see the shoots
hang dangling from the wall — the long vigorous shoots are lia-
ble to be broken by the winds, &c. ; and by leaving the tree
unnailed till March, it is losing the opportunity of forwarding
that business at convenient times in the winter pruning season,
before that of the spring commences, when a considerable deal
of other necessary work is required ; and besides, the blossom
buds will be then so much swelled, that many of them would
be unavoidably displaced by nailing up the shoots.

I would therefore advise, as above intimated, to have every
tree nailed, according as it is pruned.

In nailing them, continue the general branches arranged
more or less horizontally, nowhere laid in across one another,
but let every branch be laid in clear of another, in a parallel
order, and the supply of young wood trained in similarly at
three or four, to five or six inches distance, according to the
state or growth of the tree, and the general shoots ; and let
every shoot or branch be laid perfectly straight and close to
the wall.

For the purpose of pruning and nailing wall-trees in an
effectual and neat manner, you should be provided with a per-
fect sharp knife, rather less than the middle size ; and such as
is narrow, and but very moderately hooked at the point ; also a
large knife, and a small narrow hand saw, for the more readily
cutting off large useless old or dead branches, and also a chisel,
to use occasionally in cutting out larger unserviceable old wood.

Then for the nailing, should have a very handy light hammer,
with a perfect flat face, scarcely an inch broad, and clawed -or
forked behind ; and a quantity of the proper garden wall nails,
which are of a shortish robust make, not too fine pointed, but
such (where brick walls) as will drive into the bricks of the
"vail occasionally, as well as in the mortar joints both of brick
snd stone walls ; but for nailing to palings, either these or a
ihinner sort will be proper.

The next requisite is a quantity of cloth listing, or shreds,

404

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Oct.

and these should be neatly cut into proper regular breadths
and lengths ; generally about half an inch to an inch broad,
and about two to three or four inches long, adapted to the
sizes of the different shoots, and smaller and larger branches,
and generally cutting the ends even, to have the whole in some
little regularity: for in nailing the trees, it would look slovenly
to see too broad or over long shreds applied promiscuously to
the young shoots and smaller branches ; or others with long,
unequal, dangling ends hanging down.

PRUNING PLUMS, CHERRIES, PEARS, AND APPLES.

Plums, cherries, pears, and apple trees, upon walls and
espaliers, may also be pruned in the latter end of this month,
provided, as before observed, the leaves are mostly all down.

The method of pruning these trees may be seen in the work
of the fruit-garden next month ; where it is fully inserted
according to the successful practice. — See also January and
February.

TRANSPLANTING FRUIT TREES.

Towards the latter end of this month you may safely trans-
plant most sorts of fruit trees.

Where a new plantation is to be made, either for the wall
or espalier, the borders should be trenched one or two spades
deep, if the depth of good soil admits ; but, at any rate, it
should, either in the natural soil, or augmentation, be digged
one full spade depth of good garden earth ; and it would be
of great advantage to the trees, if some rotten dung is added,
and worked in at the same time ; but in already cultivated
borders of good earth, may, at present, only dig an aperture
for each tree ; however, for a general new plantation, if the
borders are not naturally of a good mellow fertile soil, or are
of a light poor quality, some fresh surface loam, or other sub-
stantial good earth, from a common or field, &c, applied, and
worked in with the side of the borders, would prove very
beneficial ; but if a sufficient quantity cannot be conveniently
obtained for the whole, may apply one, two, or three wheel-
barrows full, together with some rotten dung, in each place
where the trees are to be planted ; this will promote the growth
of the trees greatly at first setting off, which is of much impor-
tance ; and, as most fruit trees are generally prosperous in a
moderate loamy soil, that in applying additional earth, as above
if any of a proper loamy nature is easily attainable, it may

Oct.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

495

prove of some preferable advantage ; but in default of such,
any other good earth that can be the most conveniently attained
will also be very successful on this occasion.

However, where the ground is already of a good quality,
as that of any common kitchen garden, &c, the above assistances
will not be needful, as the trees will prosper sufficiently well in
any tolerable good mellow earth of that nature.

In making plantations of fruit trees, either for the wall or
espalier, you should observe to plant them at proper distances
that there may be sufficient scope to train and extend them
properly, in their advancing growth, for many years to come,
without interfering much with each other, as is often the case
in gardens, where the trees have been planted too close : so
as in a few years they meet and confuse one another.

The distance which should be allowed to peaches, nectarines,
and apricots, is at least twelve to fifteen feet from tree to tree ;
though eighteen feet would be a preferable distance for a
principal plantation, whereby to have full scope of extension in
their advanced growth of the horizontal branches.

Plums and cherries should be allowed the same room to run ;
though plums will require rather more than cherries.

Pears and apple trees, for espaliers, should be planted fifteen
to eighteen, or twenty feet asunder, or, in extensive premises,
if you allow these trees, at least, twenty feet distance ; but
especially pears that are grafted or budded upon free stocks,
it would in the end prove of greater advantage : for although
it appears a great distance when- the trees are first planted,
they will effectually fill that space.

But with regard to the planting these trees in espaliers, that
is, the apple and pears, it should be observed, that the former
if grafted on paradise or codlin stocks, on which the trees
become dwarfish, or of moderate growth, need not be planted
more than twelve to fifteen or eighteen feet apart ; and the
same of pears on quince stocks.

Full standard trees, either apples or pears, should be planted
at least twenty-five or thirty feet distance in the row, and the
rows not less than thirty to forty feet asunder, especially for a
full or continued plantation ; and where sufficient ground-room,
forty feet asunder; and plums and cherries not less than twenty
or twenty-five feet distance, on the same consideration.

But standard apples, pears, &c, grafted upon dwarfish
stocks, to form dwarf and half standards, may be planted at
only half the above distances.

49G

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Oct.

PLANTING GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT TREES.

May begin planting gooseberry and currant trees about the
middle, or towards the latter end of the month.

Where it is intended to plant these shrubs in a full plantation
by themselves, allow them proper room, in rows eight or ten
feet distant, and at least six feet between plant and plant in
the row.

At this distance they will have full scope to grow without
encumbering one another, you will have room to dig and hoe
between the trees, and also to prune them, and gather the fruit;
and the berries will grow large, and ripen freely, and there will
also be room to plant or sow many sorts of kitchen plants
between them.

But it is also proper to plant some of both sorts in a single
row round the quarters of the kitchen garden, six, seven, or
eight feet distant from each other in the row.

Also they may be planted in single cross rows, to divide the
kitchen ground into wide compartments of twenty, thirty, or
forty feet width, or more, and should set them about six to
eight or ten feet distance in each row.

PRUNING GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS.

Prune gooseberries and currants about the end of this month ;
and the ground about them may then be dug, which will render
the whole decent for the winter season, and will be of great
service to the trees ; though, if the leaves are not yet fully
decayed and fallen, it will be advisable to delay the pruning
till next month or December ; but shall here give the general
directions in some tolerable extent, particularly adapted for
the assistance of those who may occasionally need some inti-
mations in that process ; as it will be equally applicable in
practice the following months, &c.

Proceeding in this pruning, it must be remembered, that, as
the gooseberry and currant trees produce their fruit both on
the young wood, and principally on the two, three, and several
years' old branches, generally all along the sides thereof, the
same general bearers, young and old, of proper regular growth
and expansion, must therefore be continued as long as they
remain fruitful, and of proper regularity ; — and, from which,
to prune out any very irregular growths, and such as are too
crowdingly abundant, pruned thinningly ; also casual declined
unfruitful branches and decayed wood ; together with the

Oct.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

497

superfluous, or over-abundant and irregular young shoots of
last summer, now remaining numerously on the general principal
branches ; but retaining a selection of the said young shoots
of best orderly growth, in all vacant or most open void spaces,
laterally below and above, between the general mother branches,
one, two, or more on each branch, as may seem necessary, at
proper distances lower and higher, in some regular order ; and
generally a terminal or end one to each of the said branches,
Dy the rules hereafter suggested : and which general intimations
should be observed both in the common standard bushes, and
in those trained to walls, &c.

Thus in pruning the common standard bushes, should keep
them trained to a single stem below, and the head or general
expansion of branches kept open and in some equal regularity,
and orderly extent around and above ; always kept moderately
distant, clear of one another ; that where any are too crowd-
edly abundant, should prune them thinningly to some regular
order; or others of disorderly growth, either cross placed,
running confusedly across one another, or any rambling exten-
sively out of bounds, below or above ; or others out-growing
the limits of the general expansion, as also any very reclining
low stragglers, and under growths, &c, pruning the whole to
proper regularity ; either by cutting some of the most irregular
clean out, or others pruned in less or more to some regular
placed lateral young shoot or similar orderly branch, having a
terminal shoot for a leader ; so as the general regular branches
may terminate each in a leading shoot, and the whole stand at
least five or six inches asunder at the extremities.

Generally in this regulation of winter-pruning, displace all
saekers arising from the roots and shoots produced on the
main stem, whereby to keep every tree trained with a single
stem clear of branches below, at least six or eight to ten or
twelve inches upwards from the bottom.

And it will be observed by experience, that by continuing
the trees in some proper regularity, agreeably to the above
and following general intimations, they in return will always
produce abundant crops of fruit in best perfection in full growth
and good quality.

In young trees of the above, such as are still under training,
or not yet furnished with a proper expansion of branches,
should be careful to Tetain some best well-placed strong shoots
in proper parts below and above, whereby to form the head
of branches accordingly, in the requisite expansion ; cutting

498

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Oct.

out close the superabundancy and irregular ; likewise cut out
all lower under growths, and clear away all bottom suckers, in
order that each tree may be trained with a clean single stem,
six or eight to ten or twelve inches, as above intimated : and
the retained shoots designed for forming the head should mostly
remain entire, to advance as soon as possible to a proper
extent of growth ; or only shorten any particular shoot which
outgrows the others considerably, that the whole may advance
in some regular equality together.

But in the full grown standard bushes of gooseberries and
currants some general regulating pruning will be necessary
every year, any time from the latter end of this month, or
more generally November or December, &c, till February or
beginning of March, both principally to reduce the superfluous
and irregular young wood of the preceding summer ; and,
occasionally, in some of the general expansion of the main
branches, to cut out casual, decayed, and declining old wood
appearing of a naked unfruitful state, and others of disorderly
growths pruned to proper regularity, as it may seem expedient ;
leaving some advancing young wood below ; or where it may
seem necessary to supply the place of the old now cut away on
the above occasion.

■ Should generally observe, that when any considerable vacant
or void space occurs, and that one or more principal branches
may seem wanted to supply the deficiency, should be careful
to retain some strong, well-placed lower . young shoots in or
near the vacant parts, to advance in full growth, whereby to
form the requisite supply of branches to furnish the vacancies
in proper regularity.

As most of these bushes of some advanced growth will now
abound in numerous young shoots, produced last summer on
the sides and ends of the general main branches, as before
observed, many of which being superfluous, or too abundant,
and others irregular or disorderly, they should accordingly, in
this pruning, be cut out (by the rules below explained): and
of such as are well placed, and of best orderly growth, a
proper selection should be retained both laterally lower or
higher on the respective branches, in vacant or wide open
spaces between, and generally a terminal, or end one, to each
branch.

The rule to be observed on this occasion is, that as most
of the general principal branches will have produced two, three,
or several more shoots the preceding summer, all now remain-

Oct.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

499

ing ; consisting generally of one at the end of each branch,
and others placed laterally along the sides, one under another,
and as, probably, not more than one or two, &c, may now be
proper to retain on each of the said branches ; that is, one or
two best placed of the lateral or side shoots, of good orderly
growth, left in void or vacant spaces, lower or higher on the
branches, as may seem most expedient to supply the places in
eligible regularity ; and most generally one at the extreme end,
to terminate, and form a leader to each branch, as before
observed ; either naturally terminal, or any branches advanced
too considerably in length, prune them in more or less, to some
proper lateral shoot, to remain for its terminal leader ; and all
others of the said shoots, as are superfluous, or unnecessary,
and others irregular and improper, cut clean out close to their
origin-; or, in currants particularly, may prune some of the
small laterals to short snags or spurs, not exceeding an inch
long, as these will also produce fruit ; but generally cut close
most of the strong growths of the superfluous and irregular
both in the gooseberries and currants.

And generally observe, that, in the regular supply of the
above retained proper shoots, both laterals and terminals should
mostly, in the gooseberries particularly, remain entire, or only
shorten any as are too considerably extended or irregular in
growth toward the extreme part ; and in the currants, which
being more extensive shooters, they may have most of the
long extreme shoots, &c, shortened one-third, or more, to
keep the head more compact, and within moderate extent,
above and below ; but not in general shorten the lower laterals
of moderate growth, only such as may be of much superior
length.

That, as in the general course of this pruning, both in the
occasional regulation of the old and young wood, it being
essentially proper, as before remarked, to retain, if possible,
in all the general main branches, a last summer's shoot, as a
terminal or end leader to each, it should be carefully adopted,
where practicable, both in such branches as occasionally require
shortening, and in those which remain entire.

For when any branch being either superiorly extended beyond
the general expansion, or in any other irregularity, &c, and
requires shortening or pruning to order, it should not be cut
to a naked stumpy end ; but, if possible, pruned in less or
more to some competent .lateral young shoot thereof, or other-
wise to some similar placed lateral branch furnished with such

500

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Oct

a shoot ; and either of which to remain to supply the place of
the part cut away, terminating in a leading shoot within the
proper limits ; and in the general regular branches as do not
want shortening, and are furnished naturally with a terminal or
end shoot, the said branches should be retained entire together
with the said terminal shoot, one to each branch ; — and of the
other general shoots, retaining only some select laterals as may
be necessary, agreeable to former intimations, cut out the
superabundancy.

Likewise by the foregoing general rules of pruning these
fruit shrubs, let their heads, or expansion of branches, be gen-
erally kept within some orderly form and regularity; which may
always be eligibly effected, by occasionally pruning casual long
ramblers, or straggling out-growing branches and shoots ; either
cutting them in, less or more, to some orderly lateral young
wood ; or any very irregular, cut clean out : reserving some
well placed shoots to supply their place in proper regularity.

Finally, let it be generally observed, that with respect to the
requisite supply of young snoots now reserved agreeably to the
foregoing order of pruning, they, as before advised, should not
in general be much shortened, especially on the gooseberries :
though some pruners cut the whole very short, both in goose-
berries and currants ; but this is not advisable for general
practice, or only where required to keep the head of branches
low and close, and in a compact expansion ; this, however, by
cutting short, occasions their shooting more vigorously next
summer, in numerous superabundant strong shoots, in a close
thickety growth, detrimentally to the full growth and timely
ripening of the fruit in good perfection.

It therefore would be advisable to shorten moderately, or
in the gooseberries, particularly, retained either mostly entire,
or only prune such as are very superior in length ; or, in gen-
eral, not cut more than about one-third of an ordinary shoot,
and a strong one about one-fourth ; but the currants, being of
more open growth and extensive shooters, may be shortened
more generally and more in proportion than the above, espe-
cially the long terminal shoots, and others of very extensive
growth ; whereby to form the head in a closer moderate ex-
pansion ; but the advancing lateral placed moderate shoots,
shortened more sparingly, or smaller growths not at all, but
mostly remain entire.

However, it would be advisable Tn the gooseberries parti-
cularly, as just above observed, to practise shortening only

Oct.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

501

occasionally ; that is, for instance, where any particular termi-
nal shoots, or others advanced extensively in lengths beyond
most of the general expansion, or any as recline much in a
pending manner downwards, as often occurs in some sorts, or
in any other irregular direction, may generally prune such
shoots, less or more accordingly, to some regular order ; retain-
ing most of the others at their full length.

And thus, by observing some proper moderation and regu-
larity in pruning the general reserved shoots, the trees of both
these sorts will shoot more moderately accordingly the follow-
ing summer ; whereby the general branches will remain more
open and detachedly distinct, in a proper degree to admit of
full access to the beneficial influence of sun and air, &c. ; by
which the production of fruit will be superior, larger, and for-
warder in growth, and ripen sooner in its proper flavour.

Having thus far concluded the essential observations for
pruning the common standard bushes, it remains to give some
intimations relative to pruning those trained to walls, or palings,
&c. ; for which shall refer to the work of the Fruit Garden
in the two ensuing months, and January.

PROPAGATING GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANT TREES.

Plant cuttings and suckers of gooseberries and currants ;
being the most general and plenteous method of propagating
these shrubs.

The proper cuttings for planting must be shoots of the last
summer's production, of straight clean growth ; let them be taken
from healthy trees, and such as are remarkable, according to
their kinds, for bearing the finest fruit : let each be shortened
from about ten to twelve or fifteen to eighteen inches long, ac-
cording to its strength.

Let them be planted in rows ten or twelve inches asunder,
inserting each cutting one third, or near half way in the earth,

DRESSING THE STRAWBERRY BEDS, AND MAKING NEW
PLANTATIONS.

The strawberry beds should, some time in this month, have
their winter dressing.

Choose a dry day to do this work ; let all the runners or
strings be cleared away close to the head of the main plants j
then let the beds be thoroughly cleared from weeds, and let
all the rubbish be carried off the ground.

Then, if there be room between the plants, by having been

502

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Oct.

kept to distinct heads, or single bunches, which is sreatly
preferable, let the earth be loosened to a little depth "with a
small spade or with a hoe ; not to disturb the roots : and
others, if the plants are in beds, with alleys between, line out
the alleys the proper width, and let the alleys then be regu-
larly digged a moderate depth : and spread some of the earth ,
over the beds, neatly between, and close about every clump
of plants.

And this, in the whole, will prove very beneficial culture,
in promoting strength, and a plentiful production of large fruit.

Ill dressing these plants, it would be of much advantage to
preserve the main plants singly, not permitted to spread over
the whole surface of the bed, but kept as it were in single or
distinct bunches or heads ; and they will produce larger and
finer fruit accordingly.

PRUNING RASPBERRY PLANTS.

Prune raspberries. In doing this, let it be observed, that
all the old stems or bearers, that produced the fruit last summer
must now be cut out, for these, wholly decaying in winter,
never bear but once ; and therefore a general successional
supply of the young sucker stems produced from the root last
summer, in succession to the old, must now be selected for
the next year's bearers, to produce the fruit to be expected
the following summer ; and to make room for which, let all
the old stems, above intimated, be cut down close to the
ground ; and selecting three or four to five or six of the best
strongest young shoots on each main root or stool, let all the
rest above that number be cut away close to the surface of the
earth ; and at the same time let all the straggling shoots thereof
between the rows be eradicated.

Each of the shoots which are left to bear must be shortened ;
the rule in shortening these is — to take off about one fourth,
or one third, or thereabouts, of the original length of each shoot
according to the different growths, generally cutting them neai
the top part, at the bending, or a little below.

When the plants are pruned, clear away the cuttings, and
then dig the ground.

In digging, observe to take up and clear away all straggling
shoots and roots between the rows as do not belong to the main
plants. This digging will strengthen the roots, &c, and the
ground will lie clean and neat all winter.

Oct.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

503

PLANTING RASPBERRIES.

This is a good season to plant raspberries, where a new
plantation is wanted.

Observe, it is the young shoots or suckers which arise every
summer from the old roots that are proper plants for the propa-
gating of them, and for a fresh plantation.

They should be planted in an open situation, and where the
ground is good ; and if you dig in some very rotten dung, it
will be an advantage to the plants, and promote a production of
large fruit.

In choosing the plants for this plantation, observe to take
the outward young offset sucker stems, or occasionally the
suckers produced between the main stools, that are of some
tolerable strong growth, all of the last summer's production,
not less than two feet, but more eligible of three or four feet
long, with strength in proportion, — digging them up with full
roots, preferring those with roots the most fibrous, for this is
material in those plants ; and, as sometimes one, two, or more
buds appear formed on the root near the bottom of the stem for
next summer's shoots, such plants are particularly to be chosen,
though, as this does not always occur, choose good plants as
above.

Having procured the plants, consisting each of one strong
shoot well rooted, shorten the shoots a little, and let the ends
of the roots also be trimmed, and cut away any hard, woody
root part ; then put in the plants in rows four or five feet
distant, and let them be planted a yard distant frQm one another
in the row ; they will produce soro« fruit next summer, but
more abundantly the second year.

PROPAGATING FRUIT TREES BY LAYERS.

By layers of the young shoots, may propagate vines, mul-
berries, figs, filberts, &c, laying them bendingly into the earth,
three, four, or five inches deep, with the tops out, and they
will be all well rooted by this time twelvemonth.

Or vines, &c, may also be layed in pots, one layer in each,
of the young shoots, either drawing the layer through the hole
at bottom, filling up the pot with earth, or introduced bend-
ingly at top into the earth in the pot the depth as above.

504

THE PLEASURE,

[Oct.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN.

AURICULA PLANTS.

The auricula plants in pots must be now removed to a shel-
tered dry situation in the full sun ; and if where they could be
occasionally defended from excessive rains, snow, and severe
frost during the winter, it would be of much advantage ; for as
formerly observed, although auriculas are hardy to stand the
weather, yet, by having some occasional protection, it preserves
them in a more firm sound state, to flower in best perfection.

In default of any covered protection, the pots may, in very
wet weather, be occasionally laid down on one side, with the
tops towards the sun, to protect the plants better from any ten-
dency to rot by too much moisture ; but in all dry weather, retain
them in their upright position.

However, the pots containing plants of the more curious or
estimable kinds may easily be moved under some place of occa-
sional shelter, just to have protection from excessive rains,
snow, &c, and for which purpose, the pots may now either be
set close together within a garden frame ; and when the wea-
ther is bad, defend them with the glasses ; or may be placed
similarly in a bed, or border near a south wall, &c, and arched
over low with hoop-bends, to support a covering of mats, &c,
which may be applied to shield the plants from heavy rains,
snow, and rigorous frost. — See Auriculas, September.

Let all the dead leaves be taken off the plants.

CARE OF CARNATION LAYERS IN POTS.

Carnation layers, which were in August, or the last month,
planted, in pots, should, in the last week in this month, be
removed in their said pots to a warm sheltered situation for the
winter.

Or, the pots containing the prime varieties may be placed
close together, where they may be occasionally shielded in the
excess of bad weather ; such as in a garden frame, placed on
a bed of light dry soil, raised three or four inches ; and in
ivhich may plunge the pots to guard the roots better from frost ;
and in bad weather, defend the plants above with the frame-
glasses, &c.

They are thus to remain all the winter, and the plants per-
mitted to enjoy the full air in all mild moderate weather ; and

Oct.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

505

only when cutting cold, or excessively wet, snowy, or in severe
frosts, to be covered with the glasses, and other additional
covering, when the weather is rigorously severe ; but when
dry and mild, let the plants have the daily open air constantly.

But where there is not the convenience of a frame, the pots
may be placed in a raised bed of dry compost, and arched over
with hoops ; and in bad weather, defend the plants with thick
mats or canvass, to be drawn over the arches.

DRESSING THE BORDERS AND CLUMPS OF FLOWERING
SHRUBS, &c.

The borders and clumps of flowering shrubs and plants in
this garden should now be thoroughly well cleared from weeds ;
and also, at this time, let the shrubs be pruned from rampant
and straggling shoots ; and let all the dead stalks of flowering
plants be cut down close, and clear away dead leaves, and all
manner of rubbish.

This is also now a proper time to begin to dig the borders
and clumps, &c, in this garden, which is not only the most
effectual method to destroy all remaining weeds, but the ground
will then be ready to receive plants of any sort, and it will
appear fresh and neat during the winter season.

TRANSPLANTING FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERING PLANTS.

Now may transplant into the borders or places where wanted,
all sorts of fibrous-rooted perennial and biennial flower plants,
which will now take root freely, in a short time.

The sorts proper to plant now are rose campions and sweet
williams, campanulas, and catchfly, and you may also plant
rockets, bachelor's buttons, double feverfew, antirrhinums,
scarlet lychnis, and lychnydeas, and many other similar sorts.
See the List of Plants.

The above plants grow nearly of a height, and are very
proper to be planted variedly more or less towards the front
and middle of the borders, &c, where they will make an
agreeable appearance in their proper time of flowering, but
especially the double kinds.

Some of the double wall flowers, and stock July flowers,
double scarlet lychnis, double sweet williams, double rockets,
double rose campion, and the like, should be planted in pots,
and removed to some place where the plants can be sheltered
in severe weather. These double flowers deserve particular
care.

506

THE PLEASURE.

[Oct.

Now also slip and plant polyanthuses, and auriculas, also
double daisies, double camomile, violets, London pride, thrift,
hepaticas, gentianella, saxifrage, heart's-ease, lily of the valley,
and other low-growing fibrous-rooted plants.

These plants should be set variedly, about six inches to a
foot, or fifteen or eighteen inches from the edge of the borders,
or beds, &c, for they are but of a low growth.

This is also a good time to plant columbines, monk's-hood,
Canterbury bells, foxgloves, tree primrose, Greek valerian,
scabiouses, snap dragons, and such like kinds.

These flowers generally grow from two or three to four feet
high, in the different sorts, and should be planted in a varied
order, the lowest more or less forward, the others placed simi-
larly toward the middle and back part of the borders, &c.

Transplant also wall flowers and stock July flowers into
the borders ; and this is also a proper time to plant carnations
and pinks, both seedlings and layers.

This is a good season to plant golden rod, Michaelmas daisies,
and other asters, everlasting sunflowers, French honeysuckles,
and hollyhocks, which being mostly of large growth, are eligible
furniture for capacious borders, in assemblage with other flower-
ing plants ; and to introduce ir. shrubbery clumps, &c,
planted five or ten to fifteen or twenty feet distance in a varied
order.

Most other sorts of fibrous-rooted perennial and biennial
flower plants may likewise now be planted in borders, beds, pots,
&c. See the List of Plants.

This is a good season to plant any principal kinds of peren-
nial and biennial flowers, in pots, ready for occasionally intro-
ducing to ornament particular compartments in summer : or
some curious or tenderish kinds also to place under shelter in
winter.

PARTING THE ROOTS, AND PROPAGATING VARIOUS FIBROUS
AND KNOB-ROOTED PLANTS.

Where golden rod, everlasting sunflowers, Michaelmas dai-
sies, other perennial asters, and such like large growing fibrous-
rooted perennial plants, have stood in one place several year;
without transplanting, their roots will have spread considerably,
and will be increased to very large bunches.

Where that is the case, the roots should now either be slipped
or trimmed in all round as they stand, to a more moderate
compass, or wholly taken up, and e»ch main root divided into

Oct.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

507

several pans, or separate offset plants, not too small ; and then
some of the best should be immediately planted again in the
places allotted them, at the distance before mentioned in the
preceding article.

This is also now a good time, where not done before, to part
the roots of many other fibrous-rooted plants that have grown
into large bunches.

Particularly campanulus, catchfly, rose campion, scarlet
lychnis, bachelor's buttons, double feverfew, peach-leaved bell-
flower, yellow gentian, Canada leonurus, Christmas rose, and
the like.

Likewise polyanthuses, primroses, double daisies, double
camomile, London pride, hepaticas, violets, winter aconites,
cyclamen, saxifrage, gentianella, auriculas, and all other such
like sorts.

The roots, may, in some, either have the offsets detached,
as they remain in the ground, or be wholly taken up as above
mentioned, and every one divided or parted into separate plants.
The best of the slips, or plants, must be planted again directly
in the borders ; and the smallest, or such as are not immedi-
ately wanted for the borders and other flower compartments,
should be planted in nursery beds, to remain a year to get
strength.

Now is also a proper time to part and transplant the roots
of peonies, fraxinellas, lilies of the valley, Solomon's seal, monk's-
hood, and flag-leaved irises.

PLANTING THE VARIOUS KINDS OF BULBOUS FLOWFB ROOTS.

This is now a most eligible season to plant almost all sorts of
bulbous and tuberous flower roots which were taken up when
their leaves decayed. See the various sorts as below.

Hyacinths and tulips for the general spring bloom may now
be planted either in distinct beds by themselves, each sort
separate ; or some in the borders in assemblage with other
flowers.

But in some of the principal choice varieties, it would be
most eligible to adopt the former order of planting ; and for
which allotting a dry situation, and a light mellow soil ; let
the beds be neatly digged, breaking all lumpy parts; then
laid out in proper regularity, three or four feet wide, a little
gradually rounding, with intervening alleys fifteen or eighteen
inches to two feet width ; and the surface of the beds raked
even.

503

THE PLEASURE,

[Oct.

When the beds are ready, choose a dry and mild day to
put in the roots ; plant them in rows nine inches asunder, and
not less than six inches in each row, and three inches deep :
performing it either by dibble, drilling, or bedding in, as advised
last month.

Where it is intended to plant any of the above roots in the
common borders among other flowers, that may either be
planted in a single row lengthways of the border, a foot or
eighteen inches from the edge, and planted at least that distance
from one another ; or when these or any other bulbous roots
are to be planted in assemblage with border flowers, it would
be a preferable method to place them in little clumps, that is,
in a small patch of six or eight inches diameter, to plant four
or five roots : and so to plant the different sorts in separate
patches, at the distance of one, two, or three yards ; and in
a varied order, in having some clumps nearer the front, and
others more or less towards the middle, and which order of
planting makes a pleasing variety in the flowering season.

But the choicest kinds of these roots should be mostly
planted by themselves in beds, to the purpose that they can be
readily sheltered in severe weather, and the different varieties
of the flowers show to better advantage when collected together .
all in one bed, at one view ; and the flowers in early spring
can be sheltered from cutting cold, and excessive wet, and in
the warmer season from the mid-day sun occasionally ; all of
which would impair the beauty, and hasten the decay of the
flowers.

Now is also a very good time to plant the roots of ranuncu-
luses and anemones ; the best varieties should be planted by
themselves in beds.

The beds should be three or four feet broad ; plant six rows
in every bed, and let the roots be six inches distant in each
row ; at that distance they will blow strong, and the flowers
will show themselves to proper advantage, and must be planted
not more than two inches deep over the crowns ; observing, the
beds, where the best sorts of these roots are deposited, should
be protected in winter, when the frost is very severe.

Some of the common sorts of ranunculuses and anemone
roots may also be planted in the borders in assemblage with
other flowers, either in a row towards the edge, or in small
patches in different parts, where they will make a very agreeable
appearance in the spring.

But the best method of planting these sorts in the borders, is

Oct.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

509

in little clumps or patches, as above intimated; forming with
your finger small circles six inches diameter, about a foot from
the edge of the border, or in a varied manner ; plant in each,
three, four, or five roots : that is, one in the middle, and the
rest round the edge of the circles, and these little clumps may-
be from a yard or two, to eight, ten, or twelve feet distant.

Now is likewise the proper time to plant crocuses and snow.-
drop roots, which were taken out of the ground in summer ;
also winter aconites.

These roots may be planted either about six inches from the
edge of the borders or beds next the walks, in one continued
row, set about six inches apart, or in little clumps or patches,
as observed above of the ranunculuses, &c, in which the
flowers will make the best appearance ; forming the patches
about five or six inches over, plant the different sorts separate,
four or five roots in each patch, one in the middle, and three or
four round the edge ; two or three feet farther plant another
clump in the same order, and so on to the end ; and in this
manner they may be planted both near the edge, and disposed
more or less inward, to display a greater diversity when in
flower.

These small roots should not be planted more than about two
inches deep.

Plant also the various sorts of narcissus and jonquils ; and
this is also a proper time to put in the roots of the English and
Persian bulbous irises, fritillarias, gladioluses, ixias, and all
other such like bulbous roots as were taken up when their
leaves decayed in summer.

When the above roots are intended to be planted separately
in beds, let them be set in rows eight or nine inches asunder ;
and set the roots the same distance from one another in the row,
and not more than two or three inches deep.

But when they are to be planted in the common borders, it
is the best way to plant three, four, or five roots together in a
small patch, and allow, at least, three feet between every such
patch of roots.

Likewise plant crown imperial roots, and the roots of marta-
gons, and orange lilies, that were taken up when the leaves
decayed in summer ; and where the white lily, pancratiums, or
any other similar bulbous lily-roots have been removed since
their bloom, and are now above ground, let them be planted in
the proper places some time this month.

These bulbs should be planted variedly towards the middle

510

THE PLEASURE,

[Oct

arrt back part of the common flower-borders, they being of tall
growth, planting some more or less forward, and towards the
middle, others more inward in the borders, &c, intermixing the
different sorts properly, at one, two, or three yards distance,
and planted three or four inches deep ; observing generally to
open apertures for the larger roots with a garden trowel or
small spade, planting one good root in a place ; or to have
a larger show of bloom, may occasionally plant two or three
together.

PRUNING FLOWERING SHRUBS, &c.

Prune roses and honeysuckles ; and this is also a proper
time to prune all other sorts of flowering shrubs and evergreens.

Let this pruning be performed with a sharp knife, and not
with garden shears, as sometimes practised.

In pruning these shrubs, observe to cut out or prune to order
any very long, rambling, luxuriant shoots of the last summer's
growth, which are often produced on many sorts of flowering
shrubs, and ramble considerably out of bounds, pruning them
either close to whence they proceed, or shortened, as it may
seem most, expedient.

Where any branch advances in a straggling runaway manner
from the rest, let that be cut shorter ; observing, generally, to
prune it close to a bud, or any lateral young shoot, leaving the
bud or shoot for a leader to the branch ; and where branches
of different shrubs interfere with each other, let such be pruned
or shortened, as you shall see it necessary, so that every shrub
may stand clear off the other ; likewise, where any branches or
shoots advance too near the ground, let them be pruned up
close to the stem, to keep it clear below, and the head contin-
ued in some regularity above.

All suckers which rise from the roots should be taken clean
away; and generally let the shrubs be mostly kept to a single
stem below near the ground.

When you have finished the pruning, let the cuttings be
cleared away : then let the ground between such shrubs as
stand wide be either for the present well hoed and raked, or,
if opportunity serves, neatly digged one spade deep ; observing,
as you proceed with the digging, to cut off any very long strag-
gling roots, and to take up all suckers.

Oct.] or flower garden 6J1

PLANTING HARDY DECIDUOUS FLOWERING SHRUBS AND
ORNAMENTAL TREES.

Now, about the middle or towards the latter end of this
month, may begin to plant in shrubberies, &c, all sorts of hardy
deciduous flowering shrubs ; such as roses, Guelder roses, lilac,
and honeysuckles.

Plant also, where wanted, laburnums, syringas, althaea frutex,
jasmines, privets, double bramble, flowering raspberry, the
double blossom cherry, bladder sena, scorpion sena, spiraeas,
and hypericum frutex : it is now also a proper time to plant
mezereons, the double-flowering peach, and almonds.

The cornelian cherry, double hawthorn, and scarlet horse-
chestnuts, may also be planted any time as above, the shrub
cinquefoil, sumach, rock rose, cytisuses, acacia, and all other
hardy shrubs, may now be removed. — See the Catalogue.

In planting the different sorts of flowering shrubs, observe
to plant them at such distances and order, that the various dif-
ferent plants, according to their growth, may have full room to
grow, and to show themselves to advantage.

Where it is intended to plant them in clumps, or any conti-
nued plantations in the shrubbery order, let the shrubs in gen-
eral be set at least three or four to five or six feet distant from
one another, according to the general growth of the different
sorts ; and such plants as are of an humble growth should not
be planted promiscuously among tall growing plants : for was
that to be practised, the low plants would be lost to view.

Let this, therefore, be well observed at the time when the
shrubs are to be planted, and let the low growing plants be set
towards the front ; and the taller the plant, the more backward
in the clump it should- be planted. The shrubs should also be
disposed in such regular order, that every plant may be dis-
tinctly conspicuous to view from the walks and lawns, &c.

This is the method of order that should be practised in gen-
eral planting and decorating the clumps or quarters of the shrub-
bery ; straight lines are not to be regarded, but rather to be
avoided ; but some regularity must, notwithstanding be observed,
both with regard to the distance and advantageous disposition
of the different sorts of plants.

However, where it may be required to have any particular
shrubbery districts to form a sort of thicket, for shade, shelter,
blind, &c, either in running boundary compartments, or any

512

THE PLEASURE,

[Oct.

interior division, the shrubs and trees may be planted closer
accordingly, more or less, to suit the different occasions.

Likewise observe, that in occasionally introducing, for plant-
ing in the principal flower borders, any desirable ornamental
flowering shrubs, to effect a greater decorative variety in an
embellishment of these compartments, should generally choose
shrubs of moderate growth for that purpose, such as roses,
syringas, Hypericums, spiraas, honeysuckles, althsea frutex,
Persian lilacs, Guelder rose, mezereons, dwarf almonds, lau-
rustinus, arbutus, cistuses, jasmines, rhododendrons, &c. ; and
not planted too close, as often practised ; allotting the smaller
at least five or six feet, and larger ones ten or fifteen feet
distance ; and in their advancing growth keep them in some
regular order below and above, not to overspread the undergrow-
ing herbaceous flowers of the bulbous, tuberous, and fibrous-
rooted kinds.

May also now plant any desirable flowering shrubs in pots.
■ — See September, &c.

The shrubs in general should be mostly kept trained, each
with a short single stem below, near the ground, and their heads
should have occasional pruning every year with the knife, and
be always kept somewhat regular, and within some moderate
bounds ; and all suckers from the roots should be radically
taken away in the winter or spring dressing.

PLANTING EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS.

Evergreen shrubs or trees of most sorts may also now be
brought in, and planted in the clumps, or other parts of the
garden where wanted.

They may be planted both in distinct clumps, or other shrub-
bery compartments, to have some wholly of .evergreens, and
also some in assemblage with deciduous trees S and shrubs, to
effect the greater diversity and variety.

Most sorts may be removed any time in this month, and the
sooner the better, that they may take fresh root the same sea-
son, before setting, in of frost.

But, in particular, the strawberry tree or arbutus, laurel,
Portugal laurel, laurustinus, pyracantha, phillyreas, alaternus,
bays, cistuses, evergreen oaks, hollies, and magnolias', pines,
firs, cedars, cypress, junipers, and many others.

In planting these and all other evergreen trees or shrubs, let
the same rule be observed as mentioned above in planting the
different sorts of flowering shrubs.

Oct.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

513

That is, where these plants are to be planted in clumps, or
any continued plantation, let them be set at least four to rive
feet every way asunder, and some of the larger growing sorts
should be allowed a greater distance ; for it is of much import-
ance to allow these kinds of shrubs and trees a proper distance ;
as every plant, according to its kind, having room to shoot
each way regularly, they will form handsome heads ; and every
different shrub, &c, can also be distinctly viewed.

Besides, by allowing a due distance between plant and plant,
you have proper room to dig the ground ; and also to hoe
and clean, and do all necessary work about the shrubs.

But, as observed in planting the deciduous kinds, where
required to form thickety plantations in any particular shrub-
bery compartments, some branchy evergreens may be planted
at distances less or more accordingly.

Some of the most beautiful evergreens may also be planted
on grass lawns, dotted singly and in clumps, at various distances.

And some branchy common evergreens, such as phillyreas,
laurustinus, and laurel, are likewise proper shrubs to plant, &c,
hedgeways, to hide any rugged or unsightly naked walls, or
other fences, or any disagreeable erections, &c, in the bound-
aries of fore courts, or other garden compartments.

These plants are beautiful evergreens, summer and winter ;
they are also very hardy, and their growth is quick, full, and
branchy to the bottom ; and where wanted for the above pur-
pose, this is a proper time to plant them.

When intended to have them cover walls or paling fences,
in a regular order, they must be planted close to the wall, &c,
three or four feet asunder, and their branches spread and trained
to the wall in the manner of wall-trees; they will shoot in a
quick, close, branchy growth, and their beautiful green leaves
will effectually cover and hide the wall, or as required in any
other similar occasion : or the laurel, &c, may also be occasion-
ally planted either close or detached, to cover any unsightly
boundary fence or other disagreeable object, permitted to ad-
vance either in their natural growth, or trained as a hedge ; and
they will thus soon effect the purpose intended very agreeably.

The pyracantha is also an evergreen shrub to plant against
a wall, and its clusters of beautiful red berries make a hand-
some and very agreeable appearance in autumn and winter.

The arbutus, or strawberry tree, is also sometimes planted
against a wall. This is a beautiful evergreen plant, and makes
m agreeable figure in any place, and at all seasons, but parti-
Y 2

514

THE PLEASURE,

LOOT.

cularly at this and the two preceding months, when it appears
very ornamental, in its numerous small white flowers, and fine
red strawberry-like fruit.

But these plants (arbutus) make the best appearance when
planted, detached in the clumps or borders, lawns, &c, and
suffered to grow in their natural way.

Or these arbutus shrubs, being planted, detached or singly
upon grass lawns, &c, kept to single clean stems, and regular
heads, they have a beautiful effect.

Any desirable evergreens may now also be planted in pots,
as observed of the deciduous shrubs.

GENERAL METHOD OF PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS.

In planting the various kinds of shrubs and trees in the
shrubbery, &c, one general method serves for the whole ; open
for every plant a circular hole, wide enough to receive the
root freely every way, and about a spade deep, or as the root
requires, and let the bottom be well loosened.

Then, having the plants, prune the end of all long and
straggling roots, and cut away such roots as are broken,
damaged, or dead ; also prune to order any irregularities of
the head ; then place the plant in the hole upright ; break the
earth well, and throw it in equally, at the same time shaking
the plant gently, to make the earth fall in close about, and
among all the roots and fibres ; when all is in, tread the earth
gently round the plant, and then let every one be directly
watered, especially if a dry light soil.

But in planting the choice and more tender sorts of ever-
greens, such as arbutus, magnolia, rhododendrons, &c, it would
be of particular advantage where the plants can be readily
taken up and brought with balls of earth firmly about their
roots ; and having a wide hole opened for each, the plants
should be immediately set therein, with the said ball of earth
entire, and directly fill up the hole, and tread the surface gently.

Immediately give each plant about half a pot of water, or
according to the size of the hole, and let such as want support
be directly staked.

TRANSPLANTING FOREST AND ORNAMENTAL TREES.

Forest trees of all sorts may now be safely transplanted from
the nursery, &c, for any intended plantations, towards tha
latter end of this month ; such as elm, oak, beeches, birch,
maples, ash, lime, sycamore, and plane trees ; also alder, poplar,

Oct.]

OK FLOWER GARDEN

515

and willow : likewise pines, firs, cedars, cypress, larches, and
almost all other sorts, both of the deciduous and evergreen

forest and ornamental trees See the Catalogue at the end of

the book.

But these and all other forest trees, &c, may be transplanted
in mild weather any time between this and Christmas, or
during the winter season ; observe the same method in plant-
ing these sorts as just above advised in the general method of
planting, and at the distance and order of arrangement as hinted
in March.

PROPAGATING BY LAYERS.

Now may make layers of many sorts of hardy trees and
shrubs to propagate them.

This may be done any time in this month, and many sorts
of trees, and flowering shrubs are to be propagated by that
method ; the method is easy, and the trouble will be well
repaid in a twelvemonth's time, by an additional supply of
many well-rooted new young plants, of the respective kinds
now layed.

Almost any tree and shrub that sheds its leaves in winter
may be raised by layers of the young wood ; being layed the
lower part into the earth, as they remain on the parent plants,
leaving the top above ground.

The method of laying is, dig round the tree or shrub, and,
as you proceed, lay down the bottom young shoots, or not older
wood than one or two years' growth, or bend down the pliable
larger branches furnished therewith ; lay them into the earth,
and secure them there with hooked or forked sticks ; lay all
the young wood on each branch into the earth, three, four, or
five inches deep, leaving the tops of each, two, three, or four,
to five or six inches out of the ground, according to their dif-
ferent lengths.

Thus they are to remain till this time twelvemonth,, by
which time they will be well rooted, and must then be trans-
planted.

In the above work of laying, it may be proper either in
general, or especially in the more hard-wooded kinds, to cut
the layer on the under side in a small slit upwards, laying that
part into the earth, which often promotes the emission of "oots
near the cut more effectually

By layers, elms, and limes, and many other deciduous,
forest, and ornamental tree and shrub kinds, will now succeed.

518

THE PLEASURE,

Now is also a proper time to make layers of hardy ever-
greens,— many sorts will grow by that method.

This may be practised with good success on laurustinus and
laurels, and many other similar kinds; the layers will, in the
space of one year from the time of laying, be very well rooted,
and fit to transplant, provided you lay proper young shoots.

Phillyreas and alaternuses will also grow by layers ; but the
layers of these plants will sometimes be two years before they
are tolerably rooted, particularly when not layed till this
season.

But the best time to lay these, and such other hard-wooded
evergreen plants, is June and July, in the young shoots of
the same summer's growth ; as many of these will often take
root the first season, fit to transplant by Michaelmas.

However, it will also at this time be proper to make layers
of all such evergreen shrubs as you desire to propagate, and
many sorts will succeed.

Observe, it is the last summer's shoots that are the most
proper parts to lay ; and so accordingly let such branches as
are best furnished with young shoots be brought down, and the
shoots layed as before directed, and in page 521.

Now is the time to take off and transplant the layers of all
such shrubs and trees as were layed last autumn, spring, and
summer ; cut them clean off from the old stool, or parent trees ;
let their roots be pruned, and plant them in rows, twelve to
fifteen or eighteen inches distant.

PROPAGATING ROSES AND OTHER SHRUBS BY SUCKERS.

Transplant suckers of roses ; it is by suckers, from the root,
that most sorts of these shrubs are increased ; these being
digged up carefully with roots, will make good plants in one
or two years' time, and most of them will flower next summer.

Lilacs are also generally increased by suckers, which shrub
seldom fails to yield every year plenty; and these may, now
or at any time in winter, when the weather is mild, be taken
up and planted out in rows.

Many other shrubs are also raised by suckers from the roots,
and this is now a proper time to transplant the suckers of all
such sorts.

PROPAGATING FLOWERING SHRUBS BY CUTTINGS.

Plant cuttings of honeysuckles ; all the sorts of these shrubs
may be propagated by that method ; for the cuttings of the

Oct.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

517

young shoots will put out roots very freely, and make pretty
plants in one year.

Many other sorts of hardy shrubs and trees are to be raised
from cuttings, and this is the time to plant them.

Observe, it is the last summer's shoots that are to be used
for cuttings : let strong shoots be chosen, and shorten them to
about nine, ten, or twelve inches in length ; then plant them in
rows a foot asunder, and set the cuttings about six inches dis-
tant in the row.

Let every cutting be put half way into the ground.

Laurels and Portugal laurels are propagated principally by
cuttings, and the beginning of this month is a very successful
time to plant them ; these cuttings must also be the last
summer shoots ; do not take the long rambling shoots ; choose
such as are about nine or ten, to twelve or fifteen inches in
length.

Trim off the lower leaves, and plant them in a shady border
in rows, ten or twelve inches asunder, and set the cuttings six
or eight inches distant from one another in the row.

These cuttings will be well rooted by next September or
October

SEEDLING FLOWERS.

Remove now all the boxes or pots of seedling flowers to a
warm situation.

Let these be placed where they can have the full sun all
winter, and where shielded from cold and cutting winds.

These pots, boxes, or tubs, should also be now cleared with
great care from weeds.

The beds of seedling bulbs should also, at this time, have
good attention ; let all the weeds be taken out with particular
care ; then get some rich light earth, and sift some of this all
over the surface of the bed to the thickness of an inch, or
thereabouts.

This will be of a very great service to these young roots,
but in particular to those which were not removed in summer.

TRIMMING EVERGREENS.

Go round the plantations of evergreens, and, with a sharp
knife, reduce such to order as are of a rude growth.

Though the taste which prevailed so much formerly in cutting
or training many sorts of evergreens into different figures,
with garden shears, is now for the most part laid aside, yet

518

THE PLEASURE,

there are many sorts of evergreens that require some training
with the knife.

Sometimes particular shoots of a rude growth run out con.
siderably, in a long disorderly extension, beyond the general
branches which form the head ; these should be cut away or
shortened, and other very irregular and straggling growths
prmed, as may seem most convenient to make the head some-
wha; regular ; and, -'here the shrubs interfere very disorderly
with each other, let them be pruned to some regularity, so as
the different plants may stand fair and clear of one another.

CLIPPING HEDGES AND EDGING.

If any hedges or box edging want trimming, let them be
completed early in this month ; observing as in the two
former.

But. more particularly any hedges of evergreens, which should
all be finished clipping the beginning of the month ; for if cut
tod late, and if very cold weather sets in, it will occasion the
cut leaves, and others suddenly exposed thereto, by cutting in
the shoots, to change of a rusty-like disagreeable colour, which
they would not recover all winter.

PLANTING BOX EDGINGS.

Plant box where wanted for edgings to borders or beds ;
this being a very successful season to do that work, for the box
will now very soon root.

To make neat edgings you should get some short bushy box
and this should be slipped or parted into moderately small
slips, with roots to each, and the long woody roots cut off, and
the tops trimmed even.

The method of planting it is this : — stretch your line, if
for a straight edging, along the edge of the bed or border, and
let that part be trodden lightly and evenly along, to settle it
moderately firm ; and then with the spade make it up full and
•even, according to the line ; then, on the side of the line next
the walk, let a small neat trench be cut out about six inches
deep, making the side next the line perfectly upright, turning
the earth out towards the walk or alley.

The box is to be planted in this trench close against the
upright side next the line, placing the plants so near together
•as to form immediately a close compact edging, without being
too thick and clumsy, and with the top of the plants as even
as possible, all an equal height, not more than an inch above

Oct.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

519

the surface of the line ; and as you proceed in planting, draw
the earth up to the outside of the plants, which fixes them in
their due position ; and when you have planted the row out,
then with your spade trim in the earth almost to the top of the
plants, and tread it neatly and evenly thereto ; and when the
edging is planted, let any inequalities of the top be cut as even
and neat as possible with a pair of shears.

PLANTING THRIFT . JR EDGINGS.

Thrift makes also a very good edging, and this is a very
proper time to plant it.

To make a neat edging, the plants should be set so close as
to touch one another, either by planting in asmall drill, or trench,
as directed above, for the box, or by dibble ; but if plants are
scarce, they may be planted about two or three inches distance,
they will meet by degrees.

PLANTING IN POTS.

Planting in pots may now be performed, to many sorts of
perennial flower plants, as also to curious or desirable flower-
ing shrubs and evergreens ; both with design of having the
opportunity of moving them in their said pots for decorating any
particular compartments in spring and summer, &c, and also
in some sorts for removing them to places of shelter during
severe weather in winter : as likewise some for placing in hot-
houses, &c, in December and January, &c. ; for forcing for
early flowering.

Likewise bulbous roots, of any desirable sorts, may now be
planted in pots, or boxes, &c.

MOWING GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS.

The grass walks and lawns should now be mown generally
for the last time in the season, and should be cut as close and
even as possible : for if not well cut down at this time, they will
appear very rough all winter.

The close cut smooth garden lawns should now be occa-
sionally poled in dry weather, to scatter the wormcasts about,
and they should afterwards be rolled with a wooden or some
other roller ; the wormcasts, by being broken and spread about,
and the grass then rolled before the scattered earth is too dry,
will readily stick all to the roller, by which mean" the surface of
the grass will be rendered very clean.

Let all parts of the grass walks and lawns be at this time

520

THE NURSERY.

[Oct.

kept clean from the fallen leaves of trees, constantly sweeping
them clean off.

GRAVEL WALKS.

Let gravel walks be still continued in neat order ; clean
v/eeded, swept, and occasionally rolled once or twice a week.

PLANTING HEDGES.

This is a fine season to plant all sorts of hedges, both for
fences, shelter, and ornament.

But may particularly plant all sorts of deciduous hedges any
time from about the middle or latter end of the month, to the
end of next, very successfully j also evergreen hedges, if
planted the beginning or middle, or at least by the end of this
month, as after that time it may probably prove safer to defer
planting them till the spring, in regard that if sharp frosts
should happen soon after, before well rooted, it may injure the
young shoots and leaves, they not being so hardy, as the deci-
duous kinds, to resist severe cold, if it occurs soon after removal;
however, all or any sorts may now be successfully planted, as
they will mostly take fresh root soon the same season. — See
the Lists of Hedge-trees, §»c.

Likewise plash or lay down any old boundary fence-hedges
of thorn, elm, &c, which have run up tall and naked at bottom.
— See November and December.

THE NURSERY.

PROPAGATING BY LAYERS.

Now begin to propagate forest trees and flowering shrubs, &c,
by layers, this being the best season to perform that work on
the hardy kinds.

The ground is to be dug round the tree or shrub you intend
to propagate ; and in doing this, the shoots or branches are
to be brought down and layed into the earth, and fastened
there with forked or hooked sticks ; or previously nick or cut
a small slit upward in the layer underneath ; especially hard-
wooded kinds, to promote their rooting more effectually ; lay-
ing them as above, inserting the stem of each shoot bending!?

Oct.]

THE NURSERY.

521

into the earth, about three or four inches deep, leaving the top
several inches, or less or more, out of the ground.

Elms, limes, and many other hardy forest trees, ornamental
trees, flowering shrubs, and evergreens, succeed by laying as
above ; likewise some sorts of fruit trees, such as vines, figs, &c.

But where it is intended to raise by layers any of the above
trees, and tall shrub kinds, that are run up in stem, those from
which the layers are to be made must be prepared for that
purpose, a year or two before, by cutting down the stems near
the ground, when only about one to two or three inches thick,
to form what are called stools, that they may produce shoots
or branches low near the bottom, or so conveniently situated
near the earth, as they can be readily laid therein ; but most
of the lower kinds of shrubs branching out near the ground
naturally afford layers enough, properly situated for laying, with-
out the above precaution of previously heading down ; though
where large supplies are required, it is proper to have, in most
parts, stools prepared as above.

Take off the layers of all kinds of trees and shrubs that were
layed a twelvemonth ago, or last spring and summer.

Let these be planted in rows in an open compartment ; the
larger plants set in rows two feet and a half asunder, and the
smaller kinds fifteen or eighteen inches, and planted twelve
inches distant in the row.

PROPAGATING TREES AND SHRUBS BY CUTTINGS.

This is a proper time to plant cuttings of all such hardy trees
and shrubs as will grow by that method, both of the deciduous
and evergreen tribe.

Many of the deciduous shrubs and trees in particular are
propagated by this method ; such as the honeysuckle in all
the sorts, and many other kinds of similar growth, all grow
freely by cuttings planted any time this or next month ; and
may also plant cuttings of all other deciduous kinds as are
generally raised by that means ; allotting the whole now a
moderately dry-lying situation that they may not be injured by
too redundant wet in winter ; or may all be planted successfully
in the spring.

The gooseberry and currant trees are also raised by cuttings,
and this is as good a time as any can be to plant them.

Likewise may now plant cuttings of some sorts of evergreens,
more particularly the laurel in the beginning of the month.—
See Pleasure-ground and Nursery of this and last months.

522

THE NURSERY.

[Oct.

Cuttings of all sorts planted a year ago, and last sprin".
being rooted, may now be transplanted or quartered out in open
nursery rows, to advance in proper growth, and have occasional
training for the purposes intended.

SOWING HAW AND HOLLY BERRIES, &c.

This is the time to sow haws, holly, hips, and yewberries.

Beds must be prepared for these berries three feet and a
half or four feet wide ; the berries are to be sown each sort
separate, and covered an inch or two deep with earth.

But it is the practice of many to prepare the holly-berries
and haws, for vegetation, a whole year before they sow them,
because they seldom come up till the second spring after sow-
ing : it therefore is customary to bury them in the ground in
a heap together, for one year, and then sow them. The
method is this: —

On this occasion may either deposit them in large garden
pots, and plunge in some dry ground several inches over the
top ; or in some dry upward situation, mark out a trench one
or two feet wide, the length in proportion to the quantity of
berries intended, and dig it twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches
deep; making the bottom level; then lay the berries of an
equal thickness, and cover them with the earth five or six
inches deep, two-thirds the depth of the trench, or more, raising
it above in a ridge, like a grave, making the ridge rather wider
than the trench, in order to throw off the wet more effectually :
or if deposited in pots plunged as above, earth them up
similarly.

Here let them lie till this time twelvemonth, when they are
to be taken up and sown in beds, as above mentioned, and the
plants will come up in the spring following ; or may remain
till February or March, and then sown, and they will come up
the same season in April or May.

SOWING ACORNS.

Sow acorns, this being generally a good successful time to
put them into the ground : and it will be proper to have them
mostly sown by the latter end of this or some time next month ;
for if kept much longer out of the ground, many of them will
begin to sprout.

Let these be sown in beds, ard cover them equally w;th
earth about an inch and a half, or two inches deep.

Oct.]

THE NURSERY.

523

STOCKS TO BUD AND GRAFT UPON.

Now, about the middle or latter end of the month, may plant
out all kinds of Seedling stocks, to bud and graft the different
fruits upon.

Let these be placed in rows two feet and a half asunder, and
set the plants twelve or fifteen inches distant from one another
in the row.

You should now transplant from nursery-beds and layer stools
all the properly rooted cuttings and layers of fruit trees, as were
planted and layed a year ago or last spring, to raise stocks ; but
particularly the cuttings or layers of quinces, to bud or graft
pears upon, to form dwarf trees for walls and espaliers, &c.
planting them in wide nursery rows, as above.

PLANTING HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS.

Now you may also transplant in nursery-rows, &c, all hardy
trees and sorts of shrubs, towards the middle or end of this
month.

Those trees and shrubs which are planted out, or transplant-
ed at this season, will fix themselves firmly by the beginning
of next summer, which will be a great advantage, for they will
require but very little trouble in watering in the spring, &c.

PRUNING.

This is a proper season towards the latter end of the month,
to prune all kinds of young fruit trees in the order required,
clearing their stems from lateral shoots, and eradicate suckers
from the roots, and prune the head from irregular and supera-
bundant shoots, &c.

Forest trees of all sorts may also be pruned any time in this
month, to clear the stems from strong side shoots.

Likewise flowering shrubs, &c, may now be generally pruned
where they want it, to retrench any irregularities of the head,
&c, such as long rambling or very rampant shoots, of rude
disorderly growth, and any long straggling wood.

SOWING PLUM AND CHERRY STONES.

Now it will be proper to put into the ground some plum and
cherry stones, to raise a supply of stocks to bind and graft upon.

Allotting, for this occasion, a dryish light mellow soil ; dig
and prepare the ground into beds three or four feet wide ;
take an inch or two depth of earth evenly off the top, then sow

624

THE NURSERY.

the stones equally, moderately thick ; press them into the sur-
face with the spade, and cover them in with the earth about an
inch and a half deep in a regular manner.

It will likewise now be necessary to prepare to preserve
some plum stones in sand till spring, to be as a reserve to sow
in case those now sown in the beds should be destroyed by
vermin, or severe frosts ; having for this purpose a good close
strong box or tub, or large garden pots, &c. ; cover the bottom
three inches deep with some quite dry sand ; then scatter in a
parcel of the stones, and cover them two inches deep with sand ;
then scatter more stones, and throw on another covering of sand,
and so proceed till the box, &c, be filled, or as required.

Thus the stones will keep securely till the middle, or towards
the latter end of February, when they must be sown in the
nursery beds as above.

PLANTING CUTTINGS OF LAURELS.

Plant cuttings of laurels, but let this be done in the begin-
ning of this month.

Let the cuttings of these plants be chosen, prepared, and
planted in the manner mentioned the last month, in the work
of the nursery, and this month in that of the pleasure ground.

Portugal laurels are also to be propagated by cuttings ; and
the beginning of this month is still a very good time to plant
them.

PROPAGATING BY SUCKERS.

Propagate oy suckers from the roots, all sorts of trees and
shrubs which produce them ; taking them up with roots, and
plant them in nursery rows.

TRANSPLANTING EVERGREEN'S, &c.

The beginning or any time of this month is a proper season
to transplant various sorts of evergreens, such as laurels, Por-
tugal laurels, laurustinus, and such like kinds ; and any other
sorts of young growth in the nursery, growing either in beds or
transplanted rows, and that may appear to require more room
for their advancing growth, may now be transplanted accord-
ingly, in nursery rows, twelve to eighteen inches or two feet
interval, agreeably to the size and nature of growth of the dif-
ferent sorts of young trees and shrubs as may require trans-
planting.

Oct.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

525

SOWING BEECH MAST, AND SEEDS OF OTHER HARDY TREES.

This is a proper time to sow beech-mast and ash-keys, and
may also sow maple-seed ; let a bed be dug for each of these
seeds, the earth well broken, the surface laid even and prepared
for the seed, either by drills, or broad sowing.

Then sow the seeds, &c, pretty thick, and cover them an
inch deep with earth.

Likewise may sow the seeds, berries, nuts, stones, &c, of
most other hardy trees and shrubs ; but more particularly of
the deciduous kinds ; all or mostly in beds of light mellow
earth, and covered in therewith one or two inches deep, accord-
ing to the nature and size of the different sorts of seeds, &c, 01
some sown in drills the same depth ; or may mostly remain for
spring sowing. — See February.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

ORANGE-TREES.

Remove the orange-trees, and all the other tenderest greei.-
house exotics, into the green-house, the beginning of this month,
provided it was not done at the end of September.

Before they are carried in let the heads be well cleaned, the
decayed leaves picked off, cut out any casual decayed wood,
and prune any ill formed or unsightly irregular shoots, or very
disorderly growths of the year, as it may seem necessary
vvhereby to preserve some regularity in the head ; and let the
earth be stirred a little in the top of the tubs or pots.

About the middle of the month, or sooner, if cold weather,
it will be time to take in the myrtle geraniums, and all other
green-house plants.

Observe, as said of the oranges, to clean the heads, and
take off the dead leaves, cut out any decayed wood, prune any
particular disorderly growing shoots ; stir the earth on the sur-
face of the pots ; and, to such plants as appear any way weakly,
let some of the cold earth be taken out of the pot or tub, and
fill it up with fresh compost.

In placing the plants in the green-house, take great care to
arrange them in regular order, the taller plants behind, and the
others according to their height, in regular gradation down to

526

THE HOT-HOUSK.

[Oct

the lowest in front ; being also careful to dispose the different
sorts in such varied order, as the foliage may effect a striking
contrast and variety, by intermixing the broad and narrow leav-
ed, the simple and compound leaved, and the light green and
dark green, and the other different shades and tints of colours
and variations of the foliage of the various kinds, in which they
will exhibit a conspic-^us and agreeable diversity.

When they are all thus regularly arranged in their places,
give their heads a refreshment of water : then let the floor
and all parts of the green-house be neatly cleaned from wet and
all manner of litter.

When the plants are all in, take care to supply them with
water ; but let this always be done with moderation. Like-
wise, in open weather, give them plenty of air every mild day,
by opening all the windows ; but shut close of nights ; or also
in the day, when sharply cold, or excessively wet, raw, damp,
foggy, or other bad weather.

Any myrtles, &c, designed to be wintered in garden frames,
&c, should now be placed therein, and managed as above.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

V ' ? *i> ■ - ■ ' I

REMOVING THE SUCCESSION FRUITING PINES INTO THE
FRUITING STOVE.

The beginning of this month you must begin to remove into
the fruiting-stove or hot-house the succession pines ; that is,
such as are to produce the fruit for the supply of the ensuing
summer; but, previous to this, preparations must be made for
adding a considerable portion of fresh tan to the bark-bed in
the hot-house.

Therefore, if not done in the end of last month, let some
good new tan be now produced from the tan yards, in quantity
as advised last month, sufficient to supply the place of the
waste bark, which will now be considerable, and must all be
removed by screening it as below ; so that of new tan, about
one half or two-thirds, or more, in proportion to what the bark-
pit will contain, will now be necessary ; being, however, careful
to provide a plentiful sufficiency : and, when brought from the
tan yards, if full of moisture, it will be proper to cast it up in

Oct.]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

527

a heap for ten or twelve days to drain ; but if the tan be very
wet, it should be spread thin in some dry airy place, in sunny
days to dry, so as to bring it to a middling degree of moistness ;
for if it is put into the hot-house pit too wet, it will be a long
time before it comes to a kindly heat, and sometimes not at all,
m an effectual manner.

When the tan is properly prepared, as above, let all the
pots that are now plunged in the hot-house, be taken out.

Then let all the old tan in the bark-bed be sifted or screened :
let all that goes through the screen be taken entirely away,
and as much new tan brought in as will, with the remaining
quantity of old, All up the pit again ; forking up, as you pro-
ceed, the new and old mixedly together, raising the whole
equal to, or rather a little above, the top of the pit, in a level
order. .

Then, when the bed begins to heat and the heat is risen
near the surface, bring in your fruiting plants, and plunge
them in the bark-bed to the rims ; or if doubtful of too consi-
derable heat at first in the new bark-bed, plunge the pots only
about half way for about a fortnight ; if, however, you plunge
them wholly at first, you must observe to examine the bed
often ; and if you find the heat at any time violent, then let
the pots be drawn up half way or quite out of the tan, as you
see convenient, to prevent its burning the roots of the plants.

But when the heat is moderate, let the pots be fully plunged
to their rims.

The plants thus finally placed in the fruiting house, give the
usual culture ; the admission of fresh air moderately, in fine
sunny days, gentle waterings, and to begin the assistance of
fire heat towards the end of the month.

Should also now replenish the succession houses, or pits,
with the supply of young pines, next in successional growth
to the above fruiting plants ; also the younger successions in
the next advancing stage, placed in the bark-pits, frames, or
other wintering departments of artificial heat, either of bark-
beds, dung beds, &c, if not done in September.

SUCCESSION PLANTS.

Likewise the bark-bed of the succession house, or pit, will
also now require to be renewed with a proper quantity of new
tan, if not done last month ; observing as advised above in the
Fruiting Hot- House.

528

THE KITCHEN GAJfDEN.

[Nov.

GENERAL CARE.

Give also proper attendance to the plants in general in the
hot-house, both the pines and all the other exotics ; let them
have the necessary culture.

Let occasional waterings be given once or twice a week, or
as you shall see occasion ; being careful not to give too much
at this time.

Likewise admit fresh air into the house every fine calm day
when a warm sun, by sliding open some of the glasses from
nine or ten till two or three o'clock.

If any plants want shifting into larger pots, let it be done,
and plunge the pots in the bark-bed.

About the middle, or towards the latter end of this month,
it will be time to begin to give the addition of fire-heat in
the hot-houses, by making fires every cold evening; and
also occasionally in a morning, when very damp cloudy cold
weather.

NOVEMBER.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

BEANS.

In the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, is a
proper season to plant some early beans, either to succeed
such as were planted in October; or, where no plantation
thereof was then made, it may be done in the beginning, or
any time this month very successfully.

The beans which are planted now will come in at an early
season and often succeed better than those which were planted
three weeks or a month sooner.

The mazagan bean comes in the earliest, is a great bearer,
a good bean for the table while young, and most proper to be
planted at this season, for the earliest crop ; but may also
plant either some small Spanish, broad Spanish, or long-podded
beans, or a few of each for a successional early supply.

Let these beans be planted in a warm dry situation, and
some in a south border, under a wall or other fence ; and
observe the same method in planting them as mentioned in
October in the article of beans.

Nil'.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

529

Or likewise, if not done last month, may sow a quantity
of the mazagans, or other forward beans, thick together in a
bed or border, in a warm situation, for transplanting towards
the spring, and in the mean time to be defended with a frame
or glasses, or other occasional protection, from severe frost, to
preserve them in good condition for planting out at a proper
time ; and, if those in the open ground happen to suffer by
the severity of the winter, these will be good substitute plants.
— See October.

pease. .

Sow also some pease towards the middle of this month,
to succeed those planted in October', that there may be a
regular supply of them for the table in their due season.

But if none were sown in October, it will be proper to sow
some in the beginning or middle of this month.

The pease which are sown the first or second week in this
month will have a greater chance of surviving the frost than
those which are sown the beginning or middle of October, and
they will come in almost as early.

But where an earlier production is expected, it is the most
certain method to sow a few at both times ; then if one should
fail, the other may succeed ; and if both are successful, one
will succeed the other in 'bearing.

The best pease for sowing at this season are the early hot-
spur ; there are several kinds of the hotspurs, but let the
earliest sort be procured from the seeds-men or nursery-men,
the same sorts as advised in October, and see that the seed is
new and good.

A warm border, under a wall, is the proper situation to sow
these pease in now, for the earliest crop ; and may sow a
larger portion in some warm main quarter ; and sow them in
the manner directed in the last month.

SOWING RADISHES.

About the beginning, or towards the middle, or any time
of this month, you may sow some short-top radish seed ; and
if they survive the frost, they will come in early in the spring.

There is, however, but little dependence on this crop's suc-
ceeding ; but still, where these things are desired early, it will
be proper to sow a few, and let them take their chance : if the
winter should be favourable, you will have radishes at a very
early time.

z

530

THE KITCHEN GARDEN-

[Nov.

Let the seed be sown in a warm border, near a wall or other
fence, observing to sow it pretty thick • let this be done in a dry-
day. — See December and January.

SMALL SALAD HERBS.

Sow the different sorts of small salading, where still in request,
at this season ; in. which, if required in constant succession,
should sow some once a week or fortnight.

The principal sorts are, cresses, mustard, rape, and radish ;
also cabbage, lettuce, to cut for use in young growth.

Where it was not done last month, it will now, for the more
certainty of raising these herbs, be proper to prepare for the
seeds a bed of rich light earth, in a warm situation, the length
and width of one or more garden frames ; observing, the frames
for this occasion should be of the shallowest kind, that the sur-
face of the bed may be as near the glasses as possible, as this
will be a greater advantage to the growth of the seed and plants :
break the earth well, and lay the bed sloping to the sun ;
rake the surface fine, then put on the frame, and sow the
seed.

The seed may either be sown in drills, or all over the surface,
as observed last month, and covered not more, or rather less,
than a quarter of an inch deep with earth, as their seeds, at
this season, should be just covered. — See October.

When the seed is sown, immediately put on the glasses: and
when the plants appear, let them have air by raising the lights,
or taking them entirely off, in fine mild days, as you see it
necessary: always keep them close every night.

Or for these seeds at this season, may practise as hinted in
September, &c. ; that is, form a sloping bed to the sun, half a
foot or more higher in the back than in the front ; set on the
frame, sink the back part on the ground, that the surface of the
bed may be equally within six or eight inphes of the glasses as
before intimated, and sow the seed as above.

By practising the above methods at this season, there will
not be occasion to use artificial heat to raise these herbs, except
in severe frosty weather.

However, where a supply of these small herbs are required
to be forwarded as soon as possible, it is eligible to make a
slender hot-bed at this season for raising them, observing the
method directed in January and February.

Nov. I

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

531

LETTUCE.

Let the lettuce plants, which were planted in frames last
month to stand the winter, enjoy the air freely every day, when
the weather is mild and dry, by taking the glasses entirely off
in the morning ; but generally let them be put on again in the
evening, especially if appearance of much wet, or is very cold ;
as also in the day time on similar occasions, and when frosty ;
and continued open in all dry temperate weather ; for if these
plants are kept too close, they would draw up in a weekly insig-
nificant growth.

When the weather is very wet, let the glasses be kept on :
but if temperately mild, let them be raised two or three inches
at the back of the frame, to admit air to the plants.

In frosty weather keep the glasses close ; and if very severe,
use other covering if you see it necessary.

If you have any of the same plants under bell or hand-glasses,
let the same rule be observed as above.

Such lettuces as were not planted last month into the winter
beds where intended, should now be planted therein the begin-
ning of this month, either in frames or warm borders, or under
hand-glasses, &c.

Search for and destroy slugs among the young lettuce plants
which often annoy them greatly at this season.

CELERY.

All the advanced crops of celery should now be fully earth-
ed up a considerable height for blanching, and to preserve the
plants from frost.

This work should now be well attended to when dry open
weather ; break the earth well, and lay it up regularly to both
sides of the plants within a few inches of the tops of their
leaves.

In performing this work, let care be taken not to lay the
earth up to the plants too hastily, whereby to force the earth
into their hearts and bury them, which would retard their
growth, and occasion them to rot in that part.

ENDIVE.

Taks the advantage of a dry day to tie up some endive
plants, to blanch them.

Choose for this purpose some of the best full-grown plants ;
and when their leaves are perfectly dry, let them be gathered

532

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Nov

up regularly in your hand, and tied together with a string of
bass, or small osier twig.

But if the weather is inclinable to be frosty, or excessively
wet, the following method may be practised, to blanch some
' endive for the service of a family.

Draw up some of the best and largest plants in a dry mild
day, with full roots, and any adhering mould together, and lay
hem in a dry airy place for a day or two to drain off the wet
from between their leaves.

Then either raise a ridge of dry light earth, sloping to the
sun, and place a garden frame thereon, or lay a quantity of
light, dry, mould into a deep frame, raised in a high ridge behind,
sloping to the sun, as aforesaid ; then having the endive, tie
the leaves evenly together, plunge the lower parts of the plants
into the earth, and generally defend them with glasses placed
on the frame, especially in rain and frosty weather, and use
other covering occasionally, Or, for want of frames, you may
lay some earth in any dry open shed, raising the earth in a
high ridge, or round sloping heap, and so plant the endive
therein as above ; observing, in time of hard frost, to cover the
whole with long litter.

By the above method,. you may blanch endive in any of the
winter months, provided you lay in a sufficient quantity at the
approach of severe weather.

But where there is not the conveniency of frames, &c, you
may, in a warm dry situation, in the full sun, where the earth
is quite light, and as dry as possible, dig some of the ground
in a high sloping ridge or bank fronting the sun, about two or
three feet high, as advised in January, making the side steep
for the wet to run off : then let some endive plants be prepared
as above intimated, and deposit them into the upper part
of the ridge of earth in the same manner : and thus the endive
wih sometimes stand the winter, and blanch in tolerable per-
fection, without so much hazard of rotting by excessive wet,
&c, as the moisture cannot lodge as in the commonlevel ground,
though sometimes the natural great moisture of the earth at
this season occasions the plants to rot more or less.

But the ridges should be sheltered in severe frosts by a
covering of some dry long litter.

See also the methods suggested in October.

CABBAGE AND COLEWORT PLANTS.

In the beginning of this month may finish planting some

Nov.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

533

tabbage plants of the early kinds, if not done in October, to
come forward next spring and summer, in April and May, &c.
Chodse strong good plants, and set them in rows, eighteen
inches or two feet asunder.

Likewise finish planting coleworts, if not done, for the spring
supply : setting them in rows, twelve, by six or eight inches
distance.

Hoe and loosen the ground between the rows of cabbages
and coleworts planted the two last months ; which will both
kill weeds and vermin, and greatly assist the growth of the
plants. . • -

CARDOONS.

Finish landing or earthing up cardoons as they advance in
height. First gather their leaves up even and close, and tie
them together with a hay band : then let the earth be well
broken, and laid up round each plant to a good height.

Let this work be performed in a dry mild day, and when the
leaves of the plants are perfectly dry, otherwise they will rot
in the heart.

ASPARAGUS.

Whei^e the asparagus beds were not cleaned and earthed up
last month, it must now be done.

This should be done the beginning of the month, and observe
the following method : cut down the stems or haum of the
asparagus close to the surface of the beds, and let this be directly
carried away.

Then, with a sharp hoe, let all weeds on the beds be cut up,
and at the same time draw them off into the alleys.

Then set the line, and with a spade mark out the alleys
between the beds, about eighteen inches or two feet wide ; this
done, let the alleys be dug out longways tfne moderate spade
deep, and lay a good portion of, earth of each alley nearly to
the right and left, equally over the beds ; and as you go on,
let the weeds which are drawn off the beds be digged into
the bottom of the alleys a proper depth under the earth, leaving
the surface regular and even ; and let the edge of every bed be
made full and straight. — See October.

winter-dressing artichokes.

About tne middle, or some time this month, should give
the artichokes the winter-dressing, by cutting down the large

534

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Nov.

leaves, and so dig between, and land up over the rows, both
to guard the crown of the roots and heart of the plants from
severe frosts, and as a cultural improvement to their future
growth.

Let the leaves be cut down close to the ground, all- but the
small central ones, and the young shoots in the heart of the
plants. .

Then may practise either of the following methods of landing
up the rows.

The first is, that if in a close and full plantation, in continued
rows, four feet, or four and a half, to five feet asunder, let
trenches be lined out, between the rows of plants, twelve or
fifteen, to eighteen niches wide, in proportion to the width of
the intervals, extending them longways the rows, one trench
along the middle of each interval, then lightly dig the spaces
of the rows, turning in all weeds ; and then let the trenches
be digged out regularly along, one moderate spade deep, lay-
ing the earth thereof equally to each side, in a gradual round
ridge, lengthways over the rows and crown of the roots, and
close about the central young shoots and heart of the plants ;
and thus, landing up the whole, they are to remain so till next
spring : but observing in the interim, that at the approach of
the hard frost it would be proper to fill the trenches with some
long stable Utter, &c, to prevent the frost entering "that way
into the roots ; also to cover the plants above.

The other method is as follows, and is rather preferable to
the foregoing ; that, instead of digging out trenches, as above,
the ground in each row is to be digged longways, in a gradual
ridge along the row of plants ; but, preparatory to this,
may first fine out the proper widths of the spaces of the rows,
— setting your line along the middle of each space between the
said rows ; and with the spade cut a mark in the ground,
according to the line in each interval, by which you form beds,
as it were, four feet,1 or four and a half or five feet wide,
according to the distance of the rows, one row of plants ranging
along the middle of every such bed ; then the ground is to be
digged along regularly the width and lengthway each of the
said beds, and close between all the plants in the row, at the
same time working the earth gradually from each side into a
moderate ridge along the middle, and close about the row or
plants, and so as the row range exactly along" the middle of the
ridge.

Thus far are the principal methods of winter-dressing arti-

Nov.l

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

535

chokes, both to guard against rigorous frosts, and as a benefi-
cial culture, preparatory to their spring growth, &c, though
some often omit landing them up, and only apply some long
stable dung of er the plants in severe frosty weather ; but this
alone is not always so effectual.

However, in excessive frosts it would also be advisable to
apply a covering of long dung litter over the ridges or close
about the plants, to remain during the severity of the weather.

Artichokes of two or three years standing will occasionally
require manural assistance of good dung ; and this is the pro-
per season to apply it, previous to landing up, and to dig it into
the ground at that time accordingly.

CAULIFLOWER PLANTS.

Let the cauliflower plants, which are in frames to stand the
winter, have the free air every day, when the weather is mild
and dry, by taking the glasses quite off in the morning, but
let the plants be covered with them every night.

When the weather is extremely wet, it will be proper to keep
the glasses over them : but at the same time if mild weather,
let the glasses be raised two or three inches or more, behind,
or in front, to admit a large share of free air to the plants.

When dead leaves at any time appear upon the plants, let
them be taken off, and keep them perfectly clear from weeds.

The cauliflowers which are planted under hand or bell glasses
must be treated as above ; and if they run long shanked, lay
in some dry earth round about their stems.

Where cauliflowers were not pricked in frames, &c, nor
planted out under hand-glasses last month, as there directed,
it may still be done the beginning of this. — See October.

Look for slugs among the above cauliflower plants, which
often attack them very injuriously at this season.

SPINACHi

The winter spinach should now be kept perfectly clean from
weeds : and, where the plants stand too close, let some of the
smallest be taken up for use, so that every plant may stand
singly ; then the sun and air can come at the surface of the
ground to dry it, which will be comfortable to the plants, and
they will thrive the better.

When you gather spinach of the standing plants, let care be
taken to cut only the large outside leaves, leaving the inner
ones to grow larger, and they will be fit to gather in their turn.

536

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Nov.

CARROTS AND PARSNEPS, BEETS, &c.

The beginning of this month you should take up carrots and
parsneps, or other kitchen roots, in order to lay them in sand,
to preserve them for winter use.

For if these esculent roots are permitted to remain in the
ground, some sorts would spoil ; the carrots in particular, many
of them would be apt to canker and rot : besides, the roots in
general, if severe frost should set in, would be frozen so hard
in the ground, that they could not be easily digged up when
wanted. It is therefore proper to take up most of the main
crops of spring-sown carrots, and a portion of the parsneps ; as
these are not so liable to spoil as the carrots.

Take the advantage therefore of a dry mild day, and take
the roots out of the ground ; cut the tops off close, clean them
from earth, and carry them into some convenient dry place.

Then lay a bed of dry sand on the floor about two or three
inches thick : place the roots upon the sand close together,
with the crowns outwards and inwards, alternately. Cover
the roots with sand two inches thick, then lay some more roots,
and then more sand : and so proceed with a layer of sand and
another of roots, till you have laid them all, and lay some dry
straw thickly over the whole.

Likewise dig up some red beet-roots, to preserve in the
same manner : also some salsafy, scorzonera, horse-radish, and
Hamburgh parsley roots, &c, towards the middle or latter end
of this month, or before the approach of the hard frosts ; or
likewise, on the same occasion, a few turnips, and black turnip
radish, laying the whole in sand as the carrots and parsneps, to
serve as a ready supply in case of rigorous frosts locking the
others in the ground.

POTATOES.

Where potatoes still remain in the ground, let them now be
taken up as soon as possible, before severe frost begins ; these
roots cannot bear much frost, for such as are affected by it,
immediately turn watery, and then are not fit to eat.

They should be digged up with a flat three-tined fork, there
teing proper potatoe forks for the purpose, made with flat
Mnes, blunted, roundish at the ends. In proceeding to dig up
ihe potatoes, previously cut down the haum or stalks of the
plants near the ground ; the remaining part of the stalks will
serve as a direction in pitching the fork ; then in digging up

Nov.]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

537

the potatoes, turn them clean up to the top, and collect them
into baskets, &c.

Let these roots, when taken up, be cleaned from the adher-
ing rough earth, and laid up in a dry close apartment ; and
when the weather is severe, let them be covered with some
dry straw, and let this be laid almost a foot thick over them.

These roots, after being housed, should be from time to time
turned and looked over ; and all such as have any tendency
to rottenness or decay should be taken out, for such would
infect those that are sound, and the infection would soon
spread.

MANURING AND TRENCHING KITCHEN GROUND.

Now take advantage of dry days and frosty weather, and
tiring in rotten dung from old hot-beds, or from dunghills, and
lay it upon such vacant pieces of kitchen ground as want
manure.

Likewise now dig or trench up all such pieces of ground as
are vacant ; and, in order that the ground may receive the true
advantage of fallow, let every piece, as you dig or trench it,
be laid up in narrow ridges ; and where manured or dunged,
let the dung be digged in regularly, only one spade deep.

The trenching and ridging up the ground in winter is a great
improvement, by turning down the top, and the fresh soil
below turned up to the surface, which thereby recruits, enriches,
mellows, and improves by the weather more than many could
imagine ; and by its being laid up in rough ridges, the frost,
sun, and air can then have more free access ; all of which con-
tribute greatly to the enriching and mellowing the ground ; and
the sooner this is done the better.

When intended to dig the ground by trenching, let the
trenches generally be digged two full spades wide, and one or
two deep, according as the depth of good soil admits, or as
may be required for different occasions ; laying the earth up
rough, in a full ridge longways each trench. — See October.

By digging the vacant pieces of ground in the winter season,
it is not only an advantage to the soil, but it also looks neat,
and will greatly forward the business in the spring; when there
is always a deal of other work in hand.

The ground being laid up in ridges, it is soon levelled down
in the spring, when it is wanted for the reception of seeds 01
plants, beneficially improved in a mellow fertilized state, foi
the advantage of the respective crops.

536

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Nov.

SOWING CARROT SEED.

Dig a warm border the beginning or middle of this month,
and sow in it some carrot seed, to have a chance of obtaining a
few early young carrots in the spring.

But sow only a small spot, at this time, for there is not
much dependence in having great success ; but still it is pro-
per to make a trial of a little seed ; and if the winter proves
any thing mild, there will be a chance of having some early
success in spring or beginning of summer.

ONIONS.

Take care now of the young winter onions ; where weeds
appear, let them be picked out with care.

Let this be done in due time before the weeds spread, as
they would now soon greatly prejudice these small young
plants, especially chickweed, and other creeping weeds, which
often prevail at this season, and soon spread over the surface.

In the forwardest first sown crops of the above plants, the
young onions will be of some advanced growth, and may thin
out some moderately for use in salads, &c, especially the
Welch onions : leaving, however, a plentiful supply to stand
the winter for early spring service. /

Dried old onions, housed for winter, should be occasionally
turned over, and pick out all that discover any tendency to a
decayed state.

HOT-BEDS TO RAISE ASPARAGUS.

Now is a proper time to begin to make hot-beds to force
asparagus, if not done last month ; the method of making and
managing these beds may be seen in the work of the Kitchen
Garden in February and December.

Many of the kitchen gardeners about London begin to make
asparagus hot-beds about the middle or latter end of September,
or early in October, in order to have asparagus fit to gather by
Lord Mayor's Day, which mostly happens the second week in
November.

But if a hot-bed of asparagus was begun at the above time,
or last month, another should be made in the middle of this
month to furnish a successional supply.

Nov.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

539

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

PRUNING AND NAILING VINES.

Vines, both against walls and in vineyards, being now deso-
lated, or the leaves fallen, may have the general winter pruning
and nailing, &c. ; or at least that business may be commenced
any time this month, it consists now of a general regulation
both among the young and old wood.

In pruning vines, you must observe to leave on the general
branches, in every part, a proper supply of the last summer's
shoots below and above, both in laterals and terminals as
principal bearers to produce the fruit the next year ; and let
all the irregular, and superabundant shoots that are not wanted,
be cut out close ; cutting out also some part of the former
year's bearers, on particular different occasions, such as either
where over abundantly close, or too much advanced in length
in their respective places, &c, pruning them less or more down,
either to some eligible lateral shoot to remain for a terminal or
leader thereto, as every branch, whether remaining entire or
shortened, should have a young shoot for a terminal, or occa-
sionally some parts where too crowded, or improper, cut quite
out or pruned as above, as it may seem expedient ; and like-
wise casual, long advanced, naked old wood, unfurnished with
young, should be pruned similarly,' — in order, in the whole,
to give proper room for training the more eligible branches and
general supply of bearing shoots, &c.

For the last summer's shoots, which are now left, will, in
the spring, produce from every eye or bud a young shoot, and
on these young shoots the grapes are produced the same sum-
mer ; for vines seldom produce immediate bearing shoots from
any but one-year-old wood.

■ Therefore the main article to be observed now is, to retain
on the general main branches a sufficient supply of the last
summer's shoots in every part, lateral and terminal, as before
intimated, regularly from bottom to top, at proper orderly
distances, both sideways, and in progressive order from the
bottom upward, retaining the strongest and best situated shoots,
with the shortest joints, cutting out the superabundancy, with
part of the old wood, as above said, leaving a plentiful supply
for regular training to the wall, &c, six or eight to ten or
twelve inches distance, according to the strength of the shoots

540

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

TNOV.

and degree of wall-room ; and as you proceed, let each remain-
ing shoot be shortened according to its strength.

The general rule is to shorten the shoots to three, four, five,
or six eyes or joints in length, according to the strength of the
different shoots ; and never leave the str6ngest shoots more
than five or six eyes or joints, except on particular occasions,
m any considerable vacant space of walling ; for when the
general shoots are left longer, they fill the vines crowdedly in
the ensuing summer with a superabundancy of unnecessary and
useless shoots, and the fruit would be smaller in proportion ;
but being cut as above, this will produce each three, four, or
five fruitful shoots next summer, with two, three, four, or more
bunches of grapes upon each shoot, which grow larger and ripen
sooner more effectually.

In shortening the shoots, mind to cut them about an inch
above an eye, and make the cut sloping behind it.

Take care to prune in such a manner as that there may
always be a succession of young branches, advancing from
towards the bottom" parts, middle, &c, in some regular pro-
gression upward, both to have every part properly furnished
with bearers, and a sufficiency always ready to supply the
places of the old naked wood, as it becomes unserviceable, being
such old branches as are very long advanced, not furnished with
bearing wood, and should be cut out occasionally where there
is younger fruitful branches furnishing good shoots properly
situated to come in to supply their place.

When you have finished pruning, let the branches be nailed
up neatly, observing to lay them in straight and regularly, six
or eight to ten or twelve inches distance, agreeably to the inti-
mations above.

If you have left too many branches when you pruned, let that
be remedied in nailing, by cutting out the superabundant wood
in a regular manner.

PRUNING APRICOT AND PEACH TREES, &c.

Prune apricot, peach, and nectarine trees : and this may be
done any time in the month.

In pruning these trees, you are to observe the same method
as mentioned in October, &c. ; the last summer's shoots having
been trained in abundantly in summer, the most irregular and
overabundant of them are now to be pruned out, and a due
supply of the best placed and most promising moderately strong
.shoots are to be preserved in every part at proper distances, in

Nov.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN. 541

regular'gradations from the bottom upward to the extreme parts
of the branches ; for these trees produce their fruit principally
upon the last year's shoots.

But as this in general winter pruning a regulation both in
the old and young wood is necessary, give proper attention
accordingly : — as, for instance, casual old naked branches, or
such as are of some considerable extension, and not well fur-
nished with proper young wood, should be either entirely cut
out or shortened to some convenient branch that supports such
shoots, cutting them off close, leaving no stump ; for it is gene-
rally requisite that some of the most unserviceable, old unfruit-
ful wood, and part of the preceding year's bearers, should be
cut out in the different parts more or less, as it shall seem ex-
pedient, in order thereby to make room for the requisite supply
of the last summer's shoots, which now, in a proper selection
of the best, should be left every way at moderate distances
below and above, both in laterals and terminals, to bear fruit
next summer ; and all the improper, irregular, and superabun-
dant, must be cut away quite close, leaving no spurs, except
it appears necessary in particular parts to furnish future wood.

The young shoots which are now left must at the same time,
as you proceed in the pruning, be mostly shortened more or
less, according to the vigour of the tree and strength of the
different shoots ; which is done in order both to preserve some
regularity in general, and to strengthen particular shoots of
weakly growth, or reduce others of too considerable extension,
and in the whole to promote their producing a more effectual
supply of new shoots in the proper places next year, to bear
fruit the year following ; but for some further principal parti-
culars of performing this general pruning of these trees, and
shortening the shoots, &c, see the Fruit Garden of January
and October.

Likewise observe, that as soon as a tree is pruned, it will
be the best method to nail that before you prune another ; and
in which, let the general branches and shoots be trained m
horizontally straight and close to the wall at regular distances,
about three to four or five inches apart in a parallel order ;
and as equally as possible to both sides of the tree, both m
number and position. -

PLANTING WALL TREES.

Now may transplant for the walls, where wanted, peach,
nectarine, and apricot-trees; also plums and cherries, &c:

542

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Nov.

allotting the three former principally the best south walls ; and
let some of the two latter have also a south aspect ; and
may likewise plant some of all the sorts in west and east
exposures.

Let the borders where these trees are to be planted be pre-
pared in a proper manner.

Where an entire new plantation is to be made, let the bor-
ders be trenched one or two spades deep, according to the
depth of good soil ; or where that is very shallow, some of the
bottom should be removed, and a proportional supply of good
fresh earth added ; or where the general soil of the border is
of a very light unsubstantial nature it would be of much advan-
tage to give an addition of good fresh earth, or mellow surface
loam, with a quantity of very rotten dung.

But where only some trees are wanted in different places,
need only prepare and improve, where needful, the part of the
border where the trees are to stand, adding rotten dung and a
wheelbarrowful or two of good loam, or other fresh earth.

But generally in the common cultivated, fertile mellow sou
of a garden, it will not be particularly needful to give any pre-
sent assistance of additional substances of fresh earth, &c, only
to dig or trench the borders : or if only some trees are wanted
in different parts, more or less, may at present either only dig
each place a proper width and depth, or only open a circular
aperture or hole, in which to plant each tree.

The trees should be planted at the distance of at least fifteen
or eighteen feet from one another, with the stem of each tree
about three inches from the wall, and inclining thereto with the
head.

In planting against high walls, may plant half or full stand-
ard wall trees, between the common dwarf trees, that while the
latter advance below, the former occupy the upper part of the
wall.

PRUNING PLUM, APPLE, AND PEAR TREES, ON WALLS AND
ESPALIERS.

Prune plum, apple, and pears, both against walls and in
espaliers ; this operation may be performed on these trees any
time this month.

In pruning the plum, apple, and pear trees against walls or
espaliers, observe that as the same bearers remain many years
of a fruitful state, let only any casual unfruitful wood thereof,
or any very irregular or crowded branches and decayed parts,

Nov.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN,

545

be cut out, together with all the superfluous and ill-placed
young shoots of last summer.

But it must be observed, both in young trees under training,
and in full grown trees, that where a supply of new wood is
wanting in any part, some of the best situated shoots of the
last summer's growth must now be left in every such place ;
and generally a leading one to each main branch, where room
to train them within the proper limits ; or where any branches
are advanced considerably longer than all the others of the
general expansion, or other very irregular, or any of ill-formed
growth, they may be less or more shortened to some eligible
lower branch, or well placed lateral shoot, to remain for a ter-
minal leader ; which, and all other shoots now occasionally
retained to train for bearers, must not in these trees be com-
monly shortened, but each laid in entire ; and, according as
they advance in length, must still be trained to the wall or
espalier, without being reduced in their length in any future
pruning, either in summer or winter, where there is room to
extend them ; but where confined for extent of walling, &c,
some occasional shortened in the extreme parts will be unavoid-
able, and must be done discretionally.

For the shoots which are now laid in at full length, and not
hereafter shortened, will in the second or third year after begin
to produce some thick short shoots or natural spurs, about half
an inch to an inch in length, or but little more ; and upon these
shoots or natural spurs, and on no other, the fruit of these trees
are always produced.

But, on the contrary, were the shoots and branches of these
trees, trained on walls and espaliers, to be generally shortened
or topped in the course of pruning, as is often ignorantly prac-
tised, they would in that case produce but few such shoots or
spurs as above for fruit ; but instead of that, would, id the
places where the spurs or blossom buds would otherwise appear,
send out numbers of strong wood shoots ; and the trees would
be continually crowded with useless wood, and would never
bear in any tolerable perfection, as in the other method ;
therefore generally still continue the shoots or branches, as they
advance in length, trained to the wall or espalier, entire, as far
as room admits ; which is the most certain process, whereby
both to preserve proper regularity, and to form plentiful bearers.

But in the course of this general pruning the above trees, ill
the wall and espalier order, should examine the general expan-
sion of wood with proper attention; and, in which, if any

544

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Nov.

branches appear very irregular, or if ill formed or any disor-
derly growth, prune them accordingly to regularity, conforma-
ble to the foregoing intimations ; or any too crowdedly close,
cut out the most irregular ; and if any discover a declining or
naked state, unfurnished with good bearing fruit spurs, or of
any very unfruitful nature, prune them as above ; being, how-
ever, most careful in the whole to retain the general regular
expansion of proper branches and occasional supply of young
wood in regular order sufficiently abundant, to train about three
or four to five or six inches distance ; and all such of the last
summer's shoots, which are not now wanted for a supply of
wood, must be cut away quite close, leaving no spurs but what
are naturally produced. — See January and Febr uary.

As soon as one tree is pruned, let the branches be immedi-
ately nailed to the wall, and tied or nailed to the espalier ;
arranging them horizontally, as equally as possible to the
right and left, and trained straight and close at regular
distances.

PRUNING CHERRY TREES ON WALLS, &c.

. Chehry trees on walls and espaliers may also be pruned now
any time this month.

In pruning the wall cherries nearly the same method is to
be practised as proposed above in pruning plums, &c, for as
the same bearers continue fruitful many years, principally upon
short natural spurs, arising on the two, three, and many years'
old branches, the said branches must therefore be retained
accordingly; and let only any casual worn-out or unfruitful
wood, as support but little or no bearing fruit spurs, be occa-
sionally cut out; also prune to order any very irregular
branches, or of bad growth, or any too crowdedly abundant
pruned thinningly, that there may be room to train the general
expansion of full bearing branches and occasional supplies of
young wood, in a free and regular manner to the wall.

Likewise observe, both in young and full grown trees, that
where a supply of new wood is wanting* in any part, leave for
that purpose, in the proper places, some of the strongest of the
last year's shoots : also retain occasional good well placed
shoots in different most vacant parts, between the older
branches, where they may appear the most necessary to train in
ror advancing by degrees to a bearing state, ready to supply
any future occasion ; and such of these shoots as are not wanted
for the above purposes must now be cut away quite close,

Nov.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

545

leaving no stumps, and the retained shoots and the branches
In general of these trees must also be trained in without bein°-
shortened.

For cherry trees also produce their fruit principally upon
short robust spurs ; and the branches or shoots will begin to
produce some of them in the second year, provided they are
not shortened.

The general branches and occasional supply of young wood,
in wall cherries, should be continued about from five or sis
inches, to eight or ten distance.

But in pruning morella cherry trees in particular, always
take care to leave every year a plentiful supply of the last
summer's shoots ; and these should be left in every part of the
tree, at the distance of three or four inches ; for this kind of
cherry tree in particular produces its fruit abundantly upon last
summer's shoots, as well as upon small spurs on the two and
three years' branches.

According as the different trees are pruned, let them be regu-
larly nailed to the wall, tree and tree, training the branches
equally to both sides, five or six inches asunder.

PLANTING APPLES, PEARS, PLUMS, AND CHERRIES.

> Plant apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, for espaliers and
walls, where they are wanting ; and this may be done any time
in the month, when the weather is open.

By planting and training these trees in espaliers, and against
walls, their fruit is greatly improved in size, beauty, and flavour ;
though apples are rarely indulged with a wall, but all the others
are planted as wall and espalier trees, as well as for standards ;
however, it would also be eligible to have some choice eating
apples, such as golden pippins, &c, planted against a warm
wall, to obtain earlier fruit and of improved flavour.

Where the above trees are to be planted against walls or
espaliers, do not forget to allow them proper room ; for this
has been often forgot in making new plantations ; and we very
often see them planted so close together, as by the time the
trees begin to bear tolerably, they have met, and encumbered
one another.

The proper distance for general planting is this : let the trees
which are to be planted against walls or espaliers be set at
least fifteen or eighteen feet distant, but eighteen or twenty
would be eligible for apples and pears; especially such as are
grafted or budded upon free stocks, pears particularly, twenty

546 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Noj

feet at least will be an eligible distance in walls and espaliers,
&c.

And plum and cherry trees for walls and espaliers, should be
planted at least twelve or fifteen feet distance, or not more than
eighteen.

Let the border for the wall and espalier trees, if for a full or
general plantation, be digged or trenched two spades deep, or
one full spade at least ; or, previously, if the soil is very poor,
apply some rotten dung, and dig in a good spade deep ; o '
where only some occasional trees are wanted, or that the ground
is in proper cultivation, may only at the present time prepare
the place for each tree, or dig the holes for their reception in
planting ; but where the earth of the border is not naturally
good, some fresh surface-loam, if it can be obtained, or other
good earth applied, would be particularly beneficial to the first
growth of the young trees intended for planting ; or if only for
the present, two or three wheelbarrows-full to the place for
each tree ; preferring that of a loamy nature, where attainable,
as in which most fruit-trees grow prosperously.

PLANTING STANDARD FRUIT-TREES.

Standard -apples, pears, plums, cherries, and other fruit-
trees of all sorts, may also be brought in and planted any time
this month, in mild weather.

Where a plantation of full standard trees is to be made, either
in the garden, or for an orchard, the trees should be set at the
distance of from twenty-five to thirty or forty feet ; but fifty
feet is more advisable for the larger growing standards of apples
and pears, if for a continued full plantation in orchards ; though
standards of small or moderate growth may be planted at half
that distance.

In regard to soil, &c, for standard fruit-trees, they do not
require any particular sort, but will prosper in any common
garden earth one or two spades depth of proper staple, or that
of a field, &c, of somewhat similar quality, and in any situations
where not very low, or liable to be immoderately wet in win-
ter, &c.

Or if, where intended to plant an orchard of standards, the
ground is of a bad quality, may improve the places for each
tree, by addition of some good earth and dung.

FIG-TREES.

Now go over the fig-trees, and pull off all those autumnal

Not.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

547

green fruit which are now upon the branches, for they are use-
less ; and if left on, would injure, the eyes of the young tender
branches which are for next year's bearers. .

At the same time let all the principal shoots be nailed up
close to the wall ; but it would not be advisable to prune these
trees now ; it is better to defer that until February or March ;
but it will be necessary to nail up all the best shoots to the wall
the better to secure them from the frost and the power of the
wind.

It will likewise, in time of very hard frost, be proper to
shelter some of the best fig-trees by an occasional covering of
mats, to protect the young shoots which are to bear fruit next
year; for they being soft and succulent, are more liable than
those of other fruit-trees to suffer by severe frost.

PRUNING GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS.

Prune gooseberries any time this month, and you may also
prune currants.

These shrubs are often neglected in the article of pruning ;
but whoever will be at the pains to bestow a proper regular
pruning on these trees, he will find the advantage of it nex
summer, in the largeness of the fruit.

For if these trees be kept moderately thin of branches in a
regular manner, and all naked unfruitful and old worn out
wood, that casually occurs, cut out as it becomes unserviceable,
and young left in its place, the fruit of such trees will be much
larger than what is commonly to be met with.

The branches in general should stand regular and clear of
one another, at the distance of about seven or at least five or six
inches, at their extremities.

Suffer no suckers from the roots to stand, to run up in growth
above, to crowd the general bearing branches ; but let these in
general be always cleared away every year; continuing each"
tree to a single stem.

For the general method of pruning these fruit shrubs see
last month; January, February, &c.

PLANTING GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT TREES.

Gooseberry and currant trees may now be planted any time
this month ; and of which should generally procure some good
full headed plants, of proper growth, for immediate bearers the
ensuing season, which may be obtained abundantly at all the
nurseries ; and, in planting these shrubs in common standard

548

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Nov.

bushes, allow the same distance between plant and plant, as
directed in the preceding month, and January and February.

As these trees .grow up, it would generally be more proper
in the standard bushes to train each with a clean single stem
below, six or eight to ten or twelve inches, than to let them
branch out fully above.

Likewise let all suckers be constantly taken up as they rise
from the roots, for they disfigure the trees, and run up and
crowd the general branches of the head detrimental to the pro-
duction of fruit.

Some best sorts of currants should also be planted against
walls of paling fences, &c, both to obtain earlier ripe fruit,
and of improved growth ; and also for late fruit, by planting on
north walls ; they should be planted six to eight or ten feet
asunder, and permitted to branch out quite from the bottom,
and the branches trained to the wall, &c, three or four to five
or six inches asunder.

Likewise a few of the best early gooseberries may be planted
on a south wall to produce early green and ripe fruit.

PRUNING AND PLANTING RASPBERRIES.

Prune raspberries : this is still a proper time, and do it in
the manner directed in the spring or last month, and clear
away the cuttings, then dig the ground between the plants.

Plantations of raspberries may still be made, but let this be
done as soon in the month as possible.

These must be planted in an open spot: let the rows be
four and a half, or five feet distant, and allow three feet be-
tween plant and plant in the row — See October, January, and
February.

DRESSING AND PLANTING STRAWBERRIES.

Clean the strawberry beds ; and where it was not done
last month, let them have such a dressing as there mentioned.

Strawberry-plants, where wanting, may also still be planted ;
but these should be planted in the beginning of the month,
otherwise they will not succeed well.

The manner of planting these plants is directed in October
and September, &c.

PLANTING FILBERT TREES, HAZEL-NUT, AND BERBERRIES.

Now is a good time to plant filbert trees, and also those of

Nov.]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

549

the hazel-nut kind : likewise the berberry, for its fruit to pre-
serve, &o.

All of these trees will thrive in any common soil and situa-
tion ; they are raised by suckers from the root : and occasion-
ally by layers of the young branches, to continue the desirable
varieties permanent in their kind ; or by grafting in the spring ;
they being apt to vary when raised from the nuts, &c.

The trees are trained principally in standards, and should be
planted twelve to fifteen feet between plant and plant in the
row ; and if continued rows are intended, the rows should be
fifteen or twenty feet distant, and may train them to a single
stem of three or four, to five or six feet, and permitted to branch
out above with full heads, according to their natural order of
growth.

Or the filberts may also be planted in the hedge order, to
grow up full and branchy from the bottom upward, both for
bearing, and to form a shady walk in summer ; planting them
either in a single range, or a row on each side of a walk, three
or four to five feet apart in the row ; and permitted to run up
in a natural growth, they will bear plentifully in an agreeable
manner.

PLANTING WALNUT-TREES, CHESTNUTS, AND SERVICES.

Now plant walnut-trees, and it is also a good season to plant
chestnuts. These trees are more fit to be planted in parks,
orchards, or other open places, than in gardens, especially in
any considerable quantity: but the walnut is preferable for
its more certain production in good perfection ; and is profitable
to plant in extensive premises ; the fruit being always ready
sale in the markets, &c; they may be planted in any common
soil and situation, thirty or forty feet distance.

Likewise may now plant the sorb or sweet, and common
service-trees, in orchards, pleasure-grounds, &c.

PLANTING MULBERRY- TREES, MEDLARS, AND QUINCES.

Mulberry, medlar, and quince trees, may now be safely
transplanted.

Note. The mulberry-trees are most commonly planted and
trained for standards; and principally the black sort for the
general supply : a few trees of which are sufficient "for the ser-
vice of a family; or may have some of the white sort for
variety; but to have earlier and larger fruit, may also plant
some for walls and espaliers.

550

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Nov.

Medlars may either be planted for standards or for espaliers .
but by the latter, the fruit is generally larger..

Quinces succeed very well in standards, but are also some
times planted in espaliers, to form variety among other fruit
trees trained in that order.

GENERAL PLANTING OF FRUIT TREES.

This being now a most eligible season for planting of fruit
trees in general, should take the earliest opportunity to procure
them in the public nurseries in the best state of growth, either
for walls, espaliers, or standards, as may be required ; choos-
ing them with good proper heads, of a free regular growth
according to age, either of only one year's advance, or prefer-
ably of two or three years' shoot, or more, of larger and fuller
expansion ; or some occasionally of four, five, or six years'
growth, advanced to a fruiting state for immediate bearers the
ensuing summer ; and, in all of which, it would be of impor-
tance to have them taken up with their full spread of roots, all
as entire as possible.

In preparation for planting the trees, let a circular hole be
opened for each, wide enough for the roots to spread equally
every way, digging it out a spade deep, and let the bottom be
well loosened.

Likewise observe previous to planting, to give occasional
pruning where needful ; that is, cut off any broken roots, and
trim the extreme ends of very long straggling roots in general,
for this makes them more freely produce new fibres for strik-
ing fresh root, and for their future advantage in growth. Like-
wise, in trees of two or three years' or more advanced growth,
prune any irregular and cross-placed shoots and branches of
the head, and reduce within bounds any very long stragglers,
and regulate any very crowded wood, leaving the eligible
branches in regular order : but observe in quite young trees of
only one summer's shoot from the budding or grafting, to con-
tinue them at present with the heads mostly entire, till next
spring. — See March, also budding, grafting, Sfc.

And in planting each tree, observe, in standards, to place
them upright in the hole ; but in wall trees and espaliers, should
generally, in placing the tree, make the stem and head incline
in a proper manner to the wall, &c, and, in the whole not
planted too deep, the upper roots not more than about three ot
four to five or six inches below the general surface ; and make
the roots spread regularly : then let the earth be well broken,

Nov.]

THE PLEASURE GARDEN.

651

and throw it in equally about all the roots, shaking the tree
gently, to cause the earth to fall in close among the general
roots and fibres ; and when the hole is filled up, let the surface
of the earth be gently trodden round the tree.

PRUNING STANDARD FRUIT TREES.

Standard apple and pear trees, and all other standard fruit
trees, both in gardens and orchards, &c, may now have any
necessary pruning, to reform casual irregularities, very crowd-
ing branches, and to cut out any decayed wood and worn out
bearers.

But this pruning, in standards, is not required every year as
in wall and espalier trees, whereby to preserve the regularity
of their requisite fan-form expansion, being only necessary
occasionally to correct casual disorder, &c, as above : probably
once in several years. — See December.

For example, where a branch runs in a disorderly rambling
growth across the others, it should either be cut out, or pruned
down to some lateral one of proper regularity ; or also where
any branches are too crowdedly close, let the most irregular be
cut out thinningly in an orderly manner, as likewise let any of
a very ill-formed awkward growth, long run-away rambler, and
low straggler, be reduced to order, conformably to the general
expansion, either pruned to some regular lateral branch, or cut
quite out, where very disorderly; and thus, on the whole,
reducing the casual irregularities, continue a competent, regular,
open expansion, of the general orderly branches ; and the trees'
will thereby be preserved in a handsome growth and good fruit-
ful state in a superior degree of perfection.

Likewise, in the above, cut out casual decayed, or declining
unfruitful branches, and any of a very cankery state, and dead
wood ; and, where, any are much over-run with moss, let it now
be cleared off effectually.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN.

CLEARING AND DRESSING THE BORDERS, &c.

clear the borders and other flower compartments from
ad annual plants, pulling them up by the roots ; such as
.n and French marigolds, lavateras, China asters, and all

552

THE PLEASURE,

TNOV.

others of the like kinds ; for these never survive to flower again.
Likewise cut-down all the dead stems or decayed flower-stalks
of perennial plants, and let the borders be well cleared from
the fallen leaves of trees, and all sorts of rubbish and litter.

After this give the borders, &c., a general cleaning and dress-
ing ; let them be gone over with a hoe in a dry day, cutting
up all remaining weeds and loosening the general surface, and
then rake them smooth, or otherwise let them be neatly digged
and raked.

This destroys the growth of weeds, and renders the borders
clean and decent for the winter season.

They will also be clear and ready to receive what other plants
you think are wanting, which may now be planted, of the
various hardy sorts required, as below.

PLANTING PERENNIAL AND BIENNIAL PLANTS.

Many sorts of perennial and biennial plants may still be
planted; such as the scarlet lychnis, rose campion, rocket,
catchfiy, campanula, bachelor's buttons, and the like.

Likewise plant, where wanted, sweet williams, wall flowers,
stock July flowers, carnations, pinks, columbines, Canterbury
bells, tree primrose, Greek valerian, and honesty.

This is also a good time to transplant perennial sunflower,
golden rod, perennial asters, hollyhocks, French honeysuckles,
monk's-hood, and peonies, Solomon's seal, and irises.

Now you may likewise plant thrift, London pride, gen-
tianella, double daisies, winter aconite, lily of the valley,
polyanthuses, auriculas, and primroses, with many other sorts.

In planting the different sorts, let all the large or tall
growing plants be placed more or less inward in the borders or
clumps, and the others of middling and smaller growth planted
similarly forward, in proper gradation to the lowest towards the
front.

Likewise observe to intermix the different sorts in such a
manner, that there may be an agreeable variety and regular
succession of flowers in every part.

Any principal sorts of perennials and biennials may also now
be planted in pots.

PLANTING VARIOUS KINDS OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

This is still a proper time to plant various hardy bulbous
roots, and let it be done in dry open weather, and as early in
■the month as possible, for any general plantations.

Nov.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN

553

Tulips and hyacinths, if they are to be planted in beds, must
Lie planted in rows six to nine inches asunder, and the same
distance, or not less than six inches between plant and plant
in the row, and about three inches deep ; and such as are
designed for the common flower borders may either be deposited
in a continued row, fifteen or eighteen inches from the edge,
or planted in small patches or clumps, three, four, or five roots
together. — See last month, and the spring planting.

Let these roots be planted in such beds and borders as lie
tolerably dry all winter ; for if the ground be too wet, many of
the roots planted now would be liable to rot, or much damaged,
particularly the hyacinths.

Crocuses and snow-drops of different sorts may also now be
planted ; and it is time all these sorts were put into the
ground.

These roots may be planted either in small patches, or in
continued rows, within five or six inches of the edge of the
border, or the patches disposed in a varied order, more or less
inward, as mentioned last month.

Do not plant these roots deeper than two inches below, the
surface.

Narcissuses and jonquils, fritillarias, crown imperials,
gladioles, bulbous iris, star of Bethlehem, martagons, lilies,
and all other bulbous roots that are still remaining out of the
ground, may now be planted, when time and dry open weather
will permit.

PLANTING BULBS IN WATER GLASSES AND IN POTS.

May now plant some bulbous roots in water glasses, to
blow early in the apartments of a dwelling house, or more
early in a hot-house, such as hyacinths, dwarf tulips, polyan-
thus narcissus, &c, filling the glasses with clean, fresh, soft
water ; place one bulb in each glass, the bottom a little
immersed in the water ; and place the glasses in a warm light
room, or in a green-house, or hot-house, aforesaid.

Likewise may plant in pots of light dry earth any of the
above, and any other moderate growing bulbous roots, either
some to flower in the apartments of a house or in the open
air, next spring, or also to place some in a hot-house or
forcing-house for earlier spring flowering. Observe in planting
these bulbs in pots, to insert them only a little depth, or but
just covered with the earth.

2 A

554

THE PLEASURE,

[Nov.

PLANTING RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONES.

The ranunculuses and anemones should also be planted in
beds and borders of light dry earth, for a wet soil would be
apt to rot these roots ; let the beds be three or four feet wide,
finished a little rounding with a smooth even surface.

Let the choicest kinds of these roots be planted in beds for
the convenience of protecting them in winter, and also in the
spring when they are in bloom.

In planting these roots, let the same distance and manner
be observed as in last month.

But if you plant them in the borders, let them most generally
be put in small patches, four or five roots in each, and the
patches may be three or four to five or six feet distant.

These roots should not be planted more than two inches
deep.

AURICULAS IN POTS.

The choicest kinds of auriculas in pots, and the carnation
layers which were planted in small pots, should now, if not
before done, be placed in some warm situation ; and would be
of material benefit, if they could be occasionally guarded from
excessive rains, snow, and frost, when either happens.

The pots may at this time be placed or plunged close toge-
ther, in a garden frame, if not done last month ; and when the
weather is unfavourable, let the plants be defended by putting
on the glasses.

But where there is no frame and glasses, the pots may be
set close together, in a raised bed of dry soil ; or if very light
dry earth, may plunge the pots ; then, where convenient, may
place low hoop bends, &c„ arch-ways across ; and so cover with
mats, in bad weather, as above.

Let these plants, in dry open weather, be constantly uncov-
ered, day and night.

Where there are no proper conveniences of shelter, as above,
place the pots in some warm border, &c, near a south wall ;
and the pots of auriculas in particular may, occasionally, in
excessive wet or snowy weather, be laid down on one side,
under the wall, to preserve them more effectually from damage
by too great moisture ; and the carnations continued in a similar
situation, but the pots not laid down, the plants not being so
liable to injury from excessive wet.

Nov.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

555

SEEDLING FLOWERS.

The boxes or pots of seedling flowers should be removed to
a warm situation the beginning of this month, provided it was
not done in October.

If these boxes or pots are plunged in a dry warm border, it
will secure the young bulbs or other plants the better from hard
frost ; and when the weather proves very severe, it will be ad-
visable to cover them with long litter or with mats ; or any in
beds may also have similar occasional protection.

PRUNING FLOWERING SHRUBS, AND DIGGING THE SHRUBBERY.

Prune flowering shrubs and evergreens, and dig the shrub-
bery ground between and about the plants.

Cut out from these shrubs, or prune, as required, any very
long rambling and rude shoots of last summer's growth, also
disorderly low stragglers, and reduce to order any very irregu-
lar-growing main branches ; and cut out casual dead wood; or
where the general branches of any particular shrubs grow in a
very confused rambling irregularity, should give them a little
orderly pruning, as may seem necessary, whereby to reduce the
head to a somewhat regular form.

Let none of the branches of two or more shrubs interfere or
mix together ; but let every plant be kept single, which is always
more pleasing to the eye, except in such compartments where
it is designed any shall form a thickety growth, and overspread
the ground.

When the shrubs are pruned, let the shrubbery ground be
then neatly digged one spade deep, and take up all suckers
sent up from the roots of the shrubs.

PLANTING HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS.

Planting may still be continued in open weather among all
the hardy kinds of flowering shrubs and trees for furnishing the
shrubbery compartments.

Such as roses, honeysuckles, syringas, lilacs, and laburnums,
hypericums, euonymus, dogwoods, azaleas, mezereons, mespi-
luses, &c. ; and may also plant bladder senna, scorpion senna,
althaea frutex, and spiraea frutex, double flowering cherry, white
and yellow jasmines, sumachs, acacias, bignonia, and Guelder
rose, and all other hardy deciduous shrubs and trees ; likewise
most sorts of hardy evergreens, as in October.

Planting in pots may also now be performed to any desirable

556

THE PLEASURE,

[Nov.

ornamental flowering shrubs of moderate growth, to place in
fore courts, or in any principal compartments when in flower ;
and some to force in hot-houses for early flowering, such as
roses, &c.

PLANTING FOREST AND ORNAMENTAL TREES.

Forest and ornamental trees of all kinds may now be taken
up and planted in all places where required ; there are a great
variety of these sorts, both of the deciduous and evergreen tribe,
for which see the Catalogues.

Let them be digged up for planting with their full spread of
roots, and only trim broken or straggling parts thereof; prune
off strong shoots from the sides of the stem, and any irregularity
of the head : or in the deciduous kinds in particular, large and
spreading heads may be reduced moderately, or more or less
in some proportion to the size of the stem and expansion of
the roots, carefully preserving the top leading shoots entire.

Then let them be planted in the order explained in the
Pleasure Garden for March ; see also the general method of
tree planting in October, &c; and as soon as planted, let such
tall and full headed trees, in exposed situations, as seem to
need support, have each one or more stakes, and their stems
fastened thereto, in order to secure them against impetuous winds.

THE CARE OF NEW-PLANTED TREES.

Take care now, if frosts should set in severe, to protect the
roots of the choicer sorts of new-planted shrubs and trees, by
laying strawy mulch on the surface of the ground ; but this is
more particularly to be understood of the more curious or
tender kinds : but would also be beneficial to all others.

Likewise place stakes to secure tall new planted trees and
shrubs as stand in need of support, especially those in exposed
situations ; and this should not be omitted in proper time, it
being materially necessary j because, while the wind has power
to rock them and disturb the roots, it retards their striking
fresh root firmly, in their emission of new fibres; but being
secured with stakes they will strike sooner and more effectually.

Therefore let a stout stake be drove down to every such new
planted tree or shrub which the wind has evidently much power
over, either by their tall growth or large head, and let the
principal stem be tied to the stake in a neat and secure manner.

Nov.]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

357

CARE OF PLANTS IN POTS.

Plants in pots, both shrubby and herbaceous kinds, should
now, if not done, be removed to a warm dry situation for the
winter, when some may be plunged in the ground, the better
to guard the roots from frost ; and others of a more tender
nature placed in frames, &c, to have occasional covering in the
severe weather.

GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS.

Where any principal grass compartment was omitted having
a final close mowing last month, it should now be done, cutting
as close and even as possible.

The principal grass lawns, &c, which are kept in a close
even bottom, should, in open dry weather, be occasionally polled
and rolled, both to scatter and clear up the worm cast earth on
the surface, where considerably abounding ; and to preserve a
firm close sward ; using, for the occasion of polling, a long,
taper, pliable pole, in a dry day, sweeping it close along the
grass surface, in order to break and scatter the worm casts
about ; and the grass should afterwards, when moderately dry,
be rolled with a wooden or some other roller ; which will ren-
der the surface firm, smooth, and clean, for the scattered
worm casts will all stick to the roller.

Now also let the grass be thoroughly cleared every where
from the fallen leaves of trees ; and as these are now mostly
all down, let them be cleared away in every part of the garden
lawns, plats, and walks, before they rot in heaps, which would
greatly deface the grass surface.

GRAVEL WALKS.

Gravel walks should still be kept in some decently neat
order ; well cleared from weeds ; occasionally swept and rolled ;
and let moss be destroyed as well as possible ; for now it will,
in some moist or shady walks, spread apace, this being the time
of its growth.

A general rolling to gravel walks, occasionally, in dry open
weather, is still necessary at this season, once a week or fort-
night, whereby to preserve the surface close, firm, and even :
and contributes, in some degree, to the prevention of moss
spreading in such walks where it is apt to abound.

Some people break up their gravel walks at this season,
and throw the gravel up in ridges, to lie in that form all winter,

558

THE PLEASURE GARDEN.

[Nov

intendingly for the extirpation of weeds, &c, but is not con-
siderably effectual, and I, at any rate, think it has not only a
lisagreeable appearance in general, but the practice also renders
the walks unserviceable at a time when a foot can hardly be set
with pleasure in any other part of the garden. — See March and
April.

DIGGING THE SHRUBBERIES AND PREPARING FOR PLANTING.

Forward now, in open weather, all necessary digging in the
different shrubbery compartments.

Let this be done in particular among the shrubs of every kind
that stand distant, or not in a thickety growth to cover the
ground : for, by digging between the shrubs, it more effectually
destroys all remaining weeds, encourages the plants, and the
ground will lie clean, and appear neat all winter.

This is also a most proper time to forward the preparation
of ground intended for any new plantation of shrubs, &c,
either in the present season or following spring.

PLANTING BOX AND THRIFT.

Box and thrift for edgings to beds or borders nay still be
planted, where wanting.

Now also is a good time to mend box and thrift edging9,
where there are any gaps or uneven places ; or also to take
up, slip, and replant large old edgings. — See October.

TRANSPLANTING SUCKERS FOR PROPAGATION.

Take up suckers of roses and lilacs, and of various .jther
shrubs, to plant for propagating the respective sorts ; plant
them in nursery rows, where they will make proper plants in
one or two years' time, and may then be transplanted into the
clumps or borders.

CARE OF BEDS OF HYACINTHS AND TULIPS, &c.

Take care now of the beds of ihe choicest kinds of hyacinths,
tulips, ranunculuses, and anemone roots ; and, where accommo-
dated with proper conveniences, it would be advisable to give
occasional covering in bad weather.

The most curious sorts of these roots newly planted, in sepa-
rate beds by themselves, might be very serviceably protected
occasionally, by a low awning of hoop arches and mats, or
other covering, intimated in December, which would defend
them in some beneficial degree, in time of excessive frost, &c,

Nov.]

THE NURSERY.

Q&9

in preventing its access so fully to affect the new planted roots
so materially as if wholly open to the inclement weather.

PREPARING COMPOSTS FOR FLOWERS.

Begin now, where not done before, to break up and turn
the heaps of compost designed for flower-beds and pots, &c,
let the clods be well broken, and all the parts properly mixed.

Likewise provide materials for making composts, consisting
of good, mellow, light earth, light top-spit loam, and rotten
dung, blending the whole together in a heap or ridge in a place
open to the sun and free air, to have all possible benefit
thereof.

PLANTING AND CLIPPING HEDGES.

Hedge planting may still be performed in most of the deci-
duous kinds, as hawthorn, elm, beech, hornbeam, privet, &c,
and any hedges of these sorts, omitted cutting before, may now
be done.

THE NURSERY.

OF TRANSPLANTING.

In the beginning or some time in this month, finish all the
principal nursery transplanting that is to be done before spring,
both in the full ground, and in pots ; but particularly the more
tender and curious plants ; though the more hardy sorts of trees
and shrubs may be transplanted any time in this and next
month in open weather.

PREPARATIONS FOR NEW PLANTATIONS.

Continue to dig and trench the ground where any new
nursery plantations are to be made, in this and next month,
and in February or March, and the ground will be finally mel-
lowed by that time.

Where dung is wanted in any exhausted part of the nursery,
where new plantations of young nursery trees are intended,
take advantage of dry days, or frosty weather, and wheel it in
accordingly on the respective places, spreading it equally over
the surface two or three inches thick, or more, and then trenched

660

THE NURSERY.

[Nor.

in regularly one spade deep ; which will prove materially bene-
ficial to the future young plantation.

DIGGING BETWEEN NURSERY ROWS.

Forward the digging between the rows of all such young
trees and shrubs as are not for transplanting the same year ;
it will more eifectually destroy all surface weeds, be bene-
ficial to the plants, and the compartments will remain clean
and agreeably neat and decent during the winter and following
spring.

PRUNING TREES AND SHRUBS.

Pruning may now be performed in deciduous trees and shrubs
where necessary ; such as trimming up the stems of forest and
ornamental trees, &c. ; and to prune any rampant out-growing
shoots of the head ; likewise to give occasional similar pruning
to flowering shrubs.

THE CARE OF NEW PLANTED TREES.

Give occasional support to tall new planted trees, that are
in exposed situations, let them be staked and tied up to
secure them from being blown on one side by violent winds.

Likewise give attention in proper time to protect from
frost the roots of the more tender and choicer kinds of small
new planted trees and shrubs, in the full ground, both of ever-
greens and others.

For the protection of these kinds, let some dry mulch, or
short littery dung, be laid a good thickness over the surface- of
thp earth between the plants, which will hinder the frost from
entering to their roots so fully as if wholly exposed.

PROTECTING SEEDLING AND OTHER PLANTS.

The young tenderish seedling exotic plants in beds should
now be sheltered in sharp frosty weather ; this may be done
by an awning of some low hoop bent arches placed across the
beds ; and when the frost is very severe, cover over with some
good thick mats, &c.

Or, in severe weather, you may lay some light substance,
such as fern, or pea-straw, about their stems and their tops,
observing to take this away as soon as the frost breaks.

Let all plants in pots be also very well secured from frost.

To protect the roots more effectually of all kinds of hardy
ehrubs and plants in pots, which remain in the open air, it

Nov.]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

561

would now be proper to plunge the pots to their rims in a dry
warm lying spot of ground.

But the more curious and tenderer kinds of young ever-
greens, and other tender plants in pots, should now be gene-
rally removed into some place of occasional shelter for the win-
ter ; either in frames to be protected from frost with glasses
and other covering in very severe weather, or under some
awning to be defended with garden mats, &c, on similar
occasions.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

GENERAL CARE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Continue careful attention to your green-house plants in
general, now all housed for the winter ; they will require admis-
sions of fresh air every mild day ; occasional gentle watering
and protection from frost and other inclement weather.

When the weather is temperately mild and calm let some of
the lights or glass-sashes be opened moderately every day, about
nine or ten o'clock in the morning, to admit fresh air ; observ-
ing to open them sooner or later, and less or more, according
to the temperature of the day, whether cloudy or sunny ;
for they must be allowed a plentiful supply of free air daily, at
all favourable opportunities in moderate weather ; being careful
to shut the windows close in due time in the afternoon or
towards the evening, about three or four o'clock, or sooner, if
the air changes very cold, or sharp cutting wind ; and in
which it will not be proper to open at all ; and never admit
air in very foggy or raw cold damp weather.

If frost should happen and continue in the day, do not admit
air, unless a warm sun and calm weather, and the frost but mo-
derate, when you may open a little occasionally for two or three
hours in the middle of the day ; but if frosty and cloudy, keep
all close ; and if a very rigorous frost, make moderate fires, as
directed in December and January.

Watering to these exotics of this department will still be re-
quired occasionally in a moderate degree, but principally in
mild temperate weather, and preferably in the forenoon of a
sunny day ; having particular attention to give it only where
you shall see necessary, and always with some cautious moder-
2 a 2

569

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[Nov.

ation, so as never to over-water at this season, nor any time
during the winter.

Where the leaves of oranges or other plants have contracted
foulness in any great degree, let them be cleaned.

Examine the pots occasionally ; if the earth crusts or binds
much at top, let it be loosened a small depth.

Where any decayed shoots casually occur, prune them out
as soon as observed ; likewise pick off all decayed leaves.

Where any myrtles or other of the hardier kinds of green,
house plants are in frames or glass pits, give moderate air on
mild days, and occasional very gentle waterings ; shut the
glasses close every evening, and in cold weather : and if frosty
or very cold, cover the glasses at nights ; likewise in severe
frosts, apply a lining of litter, or moderately warm dung on the
outside behind, &c.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

PINE- APPLES.

The pine-apple plants, it may be supposed, have been most
generally placed in their respective winter bark-beds, which
were advised to be renewed last month to a proper degree of
heat ; but if any were then omitted, let it now be done as
soon as possible ; — and their further chief care at this season
is to continue making the fires regularly every evening and
cold mornings, and never too strong ; in mild open weather
the fires need only be made at nights ; and occasionally in cold
mornings ; but in severe frosts a moderate fire must be kept
night and day ; the bark-bed having been renewed in October,
or early in this month, will continue in an eligible degree of
regular heat, without requiring any further assistance, all this
and the next month.

And you must also observe to give the plants water occa-
sionally, according as the earth in the pots seems to need a
refreshment of moisture j but let the water be always applied
very moderately at this season ; and in which generally observe
the intimations mentioned in January, &c. ; for the pines, and
other tenderest exotics plunged in wide bark-beds.

Nov.]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

563

Likewise to give occasional very moderate admissions of fresh
air in a mild calm sun-shining dayt from about ten or eleven
to two o'clock j but if the weather changes cloudy or cold, shut
all close.

CARE OF THE YOUNG PINES.

The young pines in succession-houses or pits must have the
same care as above, supporting a good bark-bed heat, and fires
every evening and cold mornings, and at other times occasion-
ally, as above intimated ; with a moderate share of fresh air in
fine sunny days ; and sometimes a very gentle watering, not
often.

But such of the young pines as are placed for the winter in
bark or bark-beds, made in pits or glass cases, detached from
the main stoves, &c, and without flues for fire heat, must now
be treated with great care ; that is, the glasses must be well
covered every night, and in bad weather, with some good thick
mats, &c.

Likewise, the outside of the frame should be lined quite
round, a tolerable thickness, with some warmish strawy dung,
waste hay, or dry strawy stable litter ; this will preserve the
heat, and prevent the frost from entering the sides of the
frame.

The sides of the bed should also be laid round with dry
stable litter.

But it must be observed, that such of these pine-beds as
are made in detached pits, unfurnished with flues for fire heat,
and that the beds are made of dung and tan together, and
sometimes with dung only, the heat will not be of such duration
as beds wholly of tan ; and therefore must be often examined :
when it is found that the bed declines in heat, it must be re-
newed, by adding a strong lining of more new horse dung to
ts sides ; and this is to be repeated during the winter season,
is often as it shall be found necessary ; but as sometimes these
beds for young pines are made entirely of hot dung detachedly
not in any pit, but wholly on the level ground, and defended
with a deep garden frame and glasses, it will be likewise ad-
visable, in times of severe weather, to line the outsides with
hot dung, for there must be a due portion of heat continued
regularly in the beds.

The plants in the above beds must be allowed but very
moderate quantities of water, at any one time in this season.

But such detached pits as are furnished with flues to convey

564

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Dec.

internal heat by fires, should have moderate fires made every
evening, &c.

GENERAL CARE OF THE HOT-HOUSE.

As to the general care of the hot-house at this season, both
for pines and for the various other exotics contained therein,
take the following hints : —

The bark-bed having been renewed last month, or beginning
of this, with an ample supply of fresh tan, will now, as before
intimated, be in a high state of proper heat. No augmentation
or culture will be now required in that part ; but the princi-
pal care is to support proper fire heat, and to give moderate air,
and water occasionally.

We must be careful to support a moderate fire heat every
night, by making the fire soon after sunset, and maintained
till nine or ten at night, sufficient to warm the internal air till
morning, when also, in cold weather, continue a moderate fire ;
having always a thermometer, in this department to direct the
degree of fire heat. — See December.

In sunny calm mild days, admit a moderate portion of fresh
air a few hours, by drawing open some of the sashes, but shut
close, if the air changes cloudy or cold.

Give also moderate supplies of water occasionally to the
plants in general when it shall seem necessary ; observing the
difference between the woody and succulent tribe ; in watering
always give it very sparingly to the latter ; as explained in
January and February, &c.

Keep the general plants as clean as possible in their leaves, &c,
from dust, and any other foulness they may contract j and take
off decayed leaves and other casual declining parts that occur.

DECEMBER.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GAKDEN.
CAULIFLO WER PLANTS.

Look over your cauliflower plants which are in frames, ana
pick off all decayed leaves, as they appear on them, for they are
hurtful to the plants.

Every day when the weather is mild and dry, let the glasses

Dec]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

565

be taken off, that the plants may have the free air ; but let the
lights be put on every night.

When the weather is very wet, keep the lights over them :
but at the same time, if mild, let them be raised upon props
two or three inches, at the back of the frames, to let in a large
portion of air to the plants.

, In severe frosty weather, keep the plants constantly covered
with the glasses, and other covering (such as mats, straw, fern
and other long litter) will also be very necessary to lay over
the glasses, and apply long litter also round the outsides of the
frames, when the frost is very rigorous.

The cauliflower plants under hand or bell-glasses must also
be treated as above. Let the glasses be either set off in mild
dry days, or tilt them three or four inches on the south side,
to remain so day and night, in moderate open weather; or in
very fine days taken quite off, but put over again in the evening;
and always kept close down in frosty or very cold cutting
weather.

If any cauliflower plants are in beds under hoop arches for
occasional shelter of mats, let these be drawn over in cold
nights, but taken off every day, in moderate weather; and
never wholly covered in the daytime, when the weather is open ;
or if rather a cold northerly wind, may throw the mats up only
in front ; but kept constantly covered in very rigorous frost.

Likewise, if any were pricked under warm walls, it will be
advisable in hard frost to defend them with long litter shaken
over them slightly.

CARE OF LETTUCE PLANTS, AND SOWING LETTUCE SEED.

The lettuce plants which are in frames should be uncovered
every dry and mild day, for these plants must have the open air
at all opportunities.

When the weather happens to be very wet, keep the glasses
over the plants, and raise them behind several inches, to admit
a large share of free air ; let the glasses be kept close every
cold night : but in quite mild dry weather, let the glasses be off
every day.

Let all decayed leaves be taken off these plants as often as
they appear, and keep them free from weeds.

In frosty weather let the plants be well protected by keeping
the glasses on, or a covering of mats over them. And when
the frost is very rigorous, add also an additional covering of
long litter over the glasses or mats, &c-

566

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Dec.

You may now sow a small portion of lettuce seed in open
weather, on a warm south border : if any of them succeed, they
will be useful in the spring ; and if you sow a similar quantity
twice in the month, you will have the greater chance of suc-
cess ; though there is but little dependence of more than a
thin straggling crop from these sowings.

SMALL SALAD HERBS.

Continue to sow the several sorts of small salad once in ten
days or a fortnight, that there may be a proper supply for the
table, as often as it is required.

The sorts are mustard, cresses, radish, and rape j you may
also sow some cabbage lettuce, to cut while young, like the
cresses and mustard, &c.

Let these seeds be sown now in a sloping bed of light earth
under a frame and glasses, or in a hot-bed, as mentioned in
November ; but at this season, not to cover the seeds deeper
with earth, than just as much as will hide them.

In general keep the glasses over them ; but give air to the
plants every day when the weather is mild, especially in hot-
beds, otherwise they will be apt to fog ; raising the glasses
moderately on props : or occasionally, the plants may have
the full air in the middle of a very dry mild day ; but be sure
to keep the glasses close over them in cold weather, and every
night ; and when sharp weather, cover also with mats or long
litter.*

In frosty or very cold weather, these seeds must generally be
sown in a slight hot-bed. — See January and February.

SOWING RADISH SEED.

About the latter end of this month, if the weather is open
and dry, you may sow a few short-top radishes, to come in
early in the spring.

However as there is but little dependence on this sowing,
it is only advised to sow a few to take their chance for a trial ;
and if they succeed they will come in for drawing in March,
&c. ; let the seed be sown in a dry south border of light earth,
under a wall, &c, and rake it in fully and regular ; and as soon
as sowed, cover the surface with straw, fern, or other dry long
litter, one or two inches thick, to remain constantly till the

* We would consider it almost useless to sow small salads at this season in the
open ground. Except it be in the southern counties of England, where a regular
Guiiuly of these is wanted, they can only be obtained by the aid of hot-beds.

Dec]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

567

plants come up, which also cover every night and in frosty
weather, but uncovered in mild days. — See January and
February.

But where radishes are desired very early, you may, about
the middle or towards the latter end of this month, sow some
radish seed in frames ; or in a hot-bed.

The best sort for this purpose is the early short topped
radish.

Sow the seed pretty thick, and cover it with earth about
half an inch deep ; put on the glasses ; and when the plants
appear let them have plenty of air by taking the glasses off
every day when the weather is mild, or by raising them behind
two or three inches with props. — See January.

CARROTS.

Where young carrots are desired early, you may now if dry
open weather, and if not done last month, dig part of a warm
border, and sow some carrot seed, to try the chance of having
a few to come in forward.

This may be done any time in the month, when the wea-
ther is mild and dry, observing to sow the seed pretty thick,
and immediately rake it evenly ; and in hard frosty weather
may cover with any light long litter.

If the weather proves any thing favourable now and after
Christmas, there will be a chance of having from this sowing
a few young carrots pretty early, though not to be much
depended on; but if only a few succeed, they will be acceptable
for early drawing in May.

PEASE.

When the weather is open, let a compartment of good mel-
low ground in a warm situation be got ready for some more
pease, to succeed the former sowings; or, where none was
sowed before, this is a proper season to sow a principal first
crop.

Let the ground be regularly digged a common spade deep,
and leave the surface even ; then draw some drills two feet and
a half or a yard distant, or three feet and a half asunder, if
intended to allow them sticks, and scatter the pease therein
pretty thick, and cover them over an inch, or about an inch and
a half deep with earth.

The hotspur pease are still the properest to be sown at this
season for any general crop, and you may sow them any time

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Dec.

this month, when the weather is mild ; but to succeed those
sown the former month, the middle of this month, the proper
season for that work, or may sow some at the beginning, and
more towards the latter end of the month, for the greater
chance of success.

If you have any pease a little advanced above ground, you
should draw some earth lightly to their stems, to protect them
from frost and cold cutting winds, and to improve their
growth.

Let this be done in a dry mild day, and let the earth be
broken fine before you draw it up to the plants.

BEANS.

About the beginning or towards the middle of this month,
prepare also some ground, in a sheltered situation, for a succes-
sional crop of small and middling beans.

If you have not planted any before, let some be planted the
beginning of this month ; but if they are to succeed the former
plantation, the middle of the month will be time enough ; or
it will effect a regular succession, if a few are planted both at
the beginning and towards the latter end of the month.

Let some of the mazagan beans be planted now for a full
crop ; also a good crop of long-pods and broad Spanish beans
for a general supply ; the mazagans will come in earlier, and
the others will succeed them regularly.

These beans should be planted in rows, about two or three
inches distant in the row, and about half that in depth, the small
beans ; the others not less than three inches apart ; and let the
rows be two feet and a half asunder, and plant the beans about
two inches deep in the ground. — See October and November,
&c.

If you have beans up, let care be taken to guard them from
frost, by drawing earth up to their stems as they advance in
height ; observing to do it in open weather and a dry mild day,
and when the surface of the earth is also tolerably dry.

About the middle of this month you may plant some large
beans, such as Sandwich, Windsor, and Toker beans ; they
will come in at a right time to succeed the smaller and middle-
sized beans which were planted the beginning or middle of the
month.

These large beans must be planted in rows three feet asunder,
at three or four feet distant from each other in the rows, and
only about two inches deep at this season.

Dec] the kitchen gauden. 509

If any small beans are sown thick for transplanting, defend
them in frosty weather ; and some may now be sown for the
same purpose. — See October and November.

CELERY.

Take advantage of the first dry and mild day to earth up the
celery that requires it ; and see that the plants are tolerably
dry before you begin earthing.

Break the earth small, and let it be laid up to the plants
with care, not to break the leaves or bury the hearts.

Observe, if possible, to earth up the plants within four or five
inches of their tops, to guard them from the frost and to blanch
them a good length.

If severe frosty weather sets in, it will be proper to cover
some of your best celery plants for present use with some long
litter, such as pea straw, fern, or the like.

This will protect the plants from frost, and will prevent the
ground from being frozen ; then you can take up the plants
without difficulty, when they are wanted for the kitchen ; or,
at the approach of rigorous weather, may dig up a quantity,
and carry it into some covered shed, or dry cellar, or any con-
venient apartment ; and laid in earth, sand, or covered with
long litter, they will be ready for use.

ENDIVE.

If the weather is mild and dry, you may continue to tie up
some of the largest endive plants, to blanch them.

This should be done when the leaves of the plants are quite
dry, otherwise they will rot in the heart. The leaves should
be gathered up evenly in the hand, and then tied together a
little above the middle of the plant.

But if the weather is very wet or frosty, these plants so tied
up being very apt to rot in the heart, may take the opportunity
of the first dry and mild day to draw up some of the finest
plants, and managed as directed in the last month, planting or
placing them into the side of a ridge of earth, either in a dry
shed, or in frames ; by which practice you may always
blanch enough for the supply of a family. — See November and
January.

CARDOONS.

Earth up cardoons finally, if not done last month, to blanch
orwhitenthem ofa proper length, and topreservethemfromfrost.

570

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

[Dec.

This work should be done the beginning of the month, if the
weather is mild and dry, observing to tie their leaves evenly-
together with hay bands ; then let the earth be well broken
and laid round each plant.

These plants should now be earthed up tolerably high
towards their tops, if possible ; and in severe weather some dry
litter may be laid up round the best plants which will keep the
frost out ; or some of the best plants may be laid down hori-
zontally, to be more conveniently covered.

ARTICHOKES.

Where the artichokes were not landed up the last month,
that work should be done, if possible, the beginning of this ; or
let some litter be laid over them.

First cut off the large leaves close to the surface of the
ground, and clear them away ; then let the earth be ridged up
regularly over the rows of the plants in the manner mentioned
in last month.

But if the ground is frozen hard, so that you cannot dig
between, or that you have not time to earth them, and having
cut away the large leaves, as above, let some mulchy dry litter
be laid close about all the plants, separately, to protect them
from the effects of the frost ; and if the frost sets in rigorous,
draw the litter quite over their tops ; being sure to remove it
when the frost breaks.

MUSHROOMS.

Now take good care of the mushroom beds, to defend them
effectually from frost and wet, by continuing a good covering
of clean dry straw constantly over the beds, not less than a
foot in thickness ; and generally over the straw covering spread
some large garden mats, which will throw the falling wet of?
more quickly and effectual, as well as prove a greater security
against frost or very cold weather.

After heavy rains or snow, let the beds be examined ; and
if you find the covering next the bed wet, let the wet straw be
directly removed, and some dry applied in its place. — See
September.

HOT-BEDS TO FORCE ASPARAGUS.

Make a hot-bed to plant asparagus where it is required early,
for winter and early spring supply.

Prepare a quantity of fresh horse stable dung for that pur.

Dec]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

571

pose, by throwing it up in a heap for ten or twelve days before
you make the bed ; in that time it will be in right order.

With this prepared dung make the hot-bed three feet and a
half high, and two or three inches wider than the frame on
every side ; when the bed is made, level the top, and put on
the earth ; but you are not, as yet, to put on the frame till the
violent heat subsides.

The earth must be laid an equal depth all over the top of the
bed, about six inches thick on every part, and the surface made
perfectly even, banking up some moist soil round the outside
to keep up the earth. When this is done, and having previ-
ously procured the proper asparagus plants of three years old,
to the amount of several hundred for each three-light frame
(see February), they are to be immediately planted close to
each other upon the surface of the earth ; for in the culture of
forced asparagus should both plant very close, and take imme-
diate advantage of planting the bed, whereby to have its whole
heat from the beginning.

First, at one end of the bed let a small ridge of earth be
raised crossways upon the surface, about four or five inches
high ; this done, get the roots, and begin to place them either
entirely on the surface, or, making small openings, the lower
ends of the roots may be introduced two or three inches,
though they are more commonly placed wholly on the top of
the earth, for the fear of their having too much heat below at
first, and that they may be more conveniently placed as close
as possible ; observing to place the first course of plants very
close together, against the above little ridge of earth, adding
some earth to the bottom part of each course or layer of roots ;
and so proceed, laying or placing them one against another,
as close as you possibly can put them, from one end to the
other of the bed, with the crowns upright, all of an equal
height : do not, however, place the plants quite out to the full
extent of the bed, but leave about the breadth of two or three
inches all the way on each side and end, in order that there
may be room to bank up some more earth also against the out-
side roots.

Having placed the plants, let some moist earth be banked
up against the outside roots on each side of the bed, as just
above hinted.

Then having in readiness at hand a quantity of good mellow
light earth, with which the crowns of the roots are to be covered :
observing to lay the earth equally all over them about two

THE KITCHEN GARDHN.

[Dec.

inches thick, which concludes the work for the present. The
bed is to remain in this manner until the asparagus begins to
appear through the covering of earth ; then lay on another par-
cel of earth the depth of three or four inches ; so that, in the
whole, there may be the depth of at least five or six inches of
earth over the crowns of the roots.

When this is done, then prepare to put on the frames and
glasses ; or if a strong extensive bed of great heat, delay put-
ting on the frames and glasses finally, till the buds begin to ap-
pear through the second stratum or earth.

For as the bed, if of the above substance, continues a consid-
erable time of a strong heat, if the frames, &c, are put on too
soon, would draw the heat to endanger scorching or steam
scalding the roots ; but if heavy rains or snow should happen,
may either put on the frame, or throw some straw litter or
garden mats thickly over the top occasionally.

But, in the above case, before you put on the above last
parcel of earth, first fix some thick straw-bands round the upper
part of the bed, to secure the earth from slipping down, and
which also serves for the frame to rest upon. This is to be
done in the following manner ; let some bands of straw be made
about three inches thick, and get some small wooden pegs or
short sticks, sharpened at one end ; with these the straw-band
is to be pegged down round the top of the bed, close along the
edge, on both sides and each end s then add the additional sup-
ply of earth above mentioned even with the top of the wreath-
ing or straw-band, and when this is done, if but a moderate
heat in the bed, may put on the frames, &c. ; and in which add
finally about two inches of more earth upon the former ; or, if
a bed of considerable substance and extent, of a continuing
strong heat, it may remain unframed till the asparagus buds
are nearly advancing again towards the surface, then put on the
frames finally, resting the bottom part upon the top of the
straw-band wreathing ; and then adding a little more earth upon
the other, as above intimated, directly put on the glasses.

Observe, that during the time the bed is without the frames,
if there should happen to be heavy rains or great snow, the
bed at such times must be defended by a good thick covering
of straw or mats ; or otherwise put on the frame and lights, as
before intimated at the first approach of such weather.

The next thing to be observed is, that when the heat of the
bed begins to decline, it must be renewed by applying a lining
if new horse dung to its sides ; nor must you forget to cover

Due]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

573

the glasses every night with mats, or long litter ; but this should
be particularly observed when the plants begin to appear.

But for some further particulars in the general management,
see the Kitchen Garden for February.

The bed will begin to produce abundantly in about a month
or five or six weeks, when the asparagus shoots will rise verv
thick all over the bed ; and for the method of gathering them
see February.

TRENCHING AND DIGGING.

Now forward at all opportunities, the trenching and digging
all vacant spaces of ground in the kitchen garden, both for the
fertilising and improvement of the soil, and that the ground
may be in preparation against the spring, when there will be
much other business to be done that could not be properly
performed before.

Also take the opportunity of dry or frosty weather, to wheel
in dung from old hot-beds or dunghills, for manure in such
parts of the garden where most wanted: spread it regularly;
and let it be digged in an equal depth, by digging or trenching
the ground one or two spades deep, as you see it necessary ;
though it is more advisable to dig the dung in only one spade
deep; that the roots of the plants may sooner and more effec-
tually receive the benefit thereof ; observing, that in the digging
or trenching, it is essentially proper to lay the ground up in
rough ridges longways each trench, to remain in that order till
the time you want to plant or sow it ; which will mellow and
enrich'the ground greatly, in preparation for sowing and plant-
ing with the necessary crops in the spring, and which will also
greatly forward the spring business.

Dunging will be necessary sometimes every year, for two or
three seasons, in poor or exhausted ground, till it is properly
enriched ; and also in good soils, an augment of dung, every
other year, will be beneficial, or will be very necessary to all
compartments once in two or three years at farthest ; but in
this every one will be regulated according to the supply of dung
that can be conveniently obtained.

The ground should generally be digged, or trenched as above,
one or two spades deep, as the depth of proper soil admits, and
the different crops require ; the long rooted esculents, such as
carrots, parsneps, &c„ require the soil to be broken up some
considerable depth, to admit of their perpendicular growth ;
besides, by deep digging at least one full spade or occasionally

574

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Dec,

two spades deep or more, it improves, and in a manner renews
the soil, by turning the top down, and the bottom to the surface
and the crops grow more freely.

For the methods to be observed in the operation of trenching
and ridging up the grounds as above advised, see also October
and November.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

PRUNING APPLE AND PEAR TREES.

Continue to prune apple and pear trees against walls and
espaliers, any time this month.

These trees are hardy, and you need not be afraid of the
frost doing them the least damage through means of pruning
them.

The same rule holds good now in pruning these trees, as
mentioned in November.

PRUNING VINES.

Vines against walls or in the vineyards, may now likewise
be pruned ; and the same method is to be practised in pruning
vines this month as in the last ; and as explained in January
and February, &c.

PRUNING WALL TREES.

Wall trees of I peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, and
cherry-trees may also still be pruned ; and it may be done any
time in this month, without danger of injuring the trees by the
operation, even if the weather should be frosty.

These trees must always have a general winter pruning and
nailing, both occasionally in the old and young wood ; and the
pruning and nailing of them may be forwarded now or in any
of the winter months. Observe the same method of pruning
all these sorts as in the two last months, and as explained in
January and February, &c, and let every tree, according as
it is pruned, be immediately nailed up in a neat and regular
manner.

Dec]

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

675

Likewise any espalier trees of plums and cherries, &c, should
also be forwarded in pruning, as above.

PRUNING STANDARD FRUIT TREES.

Now is the time to examine standard fruit trees, either in the
garden or in the orchard, in order to give any occas ional prun-
ing, where necessary, such as a regulating thinning in any con-
siderably crowded branches, and to cut out others of a very irreg-
ular or disorderly growth, and such as appear unfruitful and
useless, casual, decayed, or worn out branches of dead wood.

But as standards, having full scope for their growth above
to branch out freely every way at sides and top, they do not,
like wall and espalier trees, limited to certain bounds, require
an annual pruning, but only occasionally ; and that probably
but a little once in several years, just to regulate any verv
disorderly branches, which will sometimes be necessary less or
more ; and this, or any time in winter, is the proper season
for giving any occasional pruning to all kinds of standards as
may be required.

Examining, therefore, any standards that discover a very
disorderly growth, where the general branches in any particular
trees stand considerably too close in a crowded confused irregu-
larity, let some of the most irregular be cut out in a thinning
manner ; and where any main branches are cross placed, or
grow ramblingly across the others in an interfering disorderly
extension, cut them clean out, or if in the above any branches
discover an unprosperous growth, or worn out barren state,
cut them away, to give a larger scope of room for the more
regular expansion of t e general fructiferous branches ; or also
any extending in a rambling runaway disorder beyond all the
others, together with long stragglers and under-hangers, should
be pruned to some regular order : and clear out any thickety
growths in the middle of the head, and cut out all decayed wood.

Let the smaller branches, towards the upper parts of the
trees, be also examined ; and where they are crowded, let some
of these also be cut away.

Thus let all kinds of standards always have the general prin-
cipal branches kept moderately thin, and at somewhat orderly
distances : and they will not fail to produce abundantly, and
the fruit will always be large and handsome.

NEW PLANTED TREES.

Take care now of new planted fruit trees, which were plant-

576

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Dec

ed in this, or the two last months, and let their roots be well
secured from frost, but particularly those of the more valuable
and desirable kinds.

This must be done by laying mulch, or some kind of dungy
litter, on the surface of the ground about the trees ; and
let this be laid full as far, each way, as you think the roots
extend.

Support all new planted standard fruit-trees, where wanting,
with stakes ; especially those with high stems and tolerably full
heads, and that are in exposed situations, open to the power of
winds.

In doing this, observe, previously to tying them to the stakes,
to twist a piece of hay-band, or something similar, round the
stem of each tree, in the part that is .to be fastened to the stake,
to prevent the bark from being galled or injured when the tree
is rocked by the winds ; and then let each be securely tied in
an upright position to its respective stake or stakes, which
should be driven firmly into the ground,

MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT TREE BORDERS.

Wheb.e any of the fruit tree borders are poor, or of bad soil,
or much exhausted, and want manuring, or in need of being
revived with an augment of fresh earth, this is now a very good
time to do that work.

For that purpose, get from a pasture common, or elsewhere,
a quantity of good fresh earth, loamy, if conveniently attainable,
the top spit ; or in want of this, other substantial good soil,
and some of the best thoroughly rotten dung ; or in default of
proper earth, apply a good coat of dung alone.

Let these materials be laid equally upon the borders, in
which the improvement is most wanted, which then let be
regularly digged or trenched one good spade deep, working in
the augment of fresh earth, or dung, &c, in a proper manner
according to the width and depth of the said border ; and this
dressing, to poor or- much exhausted soils, will be of great ser-
vice to the trees in general, as will be seen in a summer or two
after, in their growth and fruitful production ; and will be par-
ticularly beneficial to such trees as are in a weakly declining
state.

Or, borders of ordinary good soil may be continued in a fer-
tile state by application of dung only, once in two or three
years.

In open weather, dig and prepare such borders, or other

D*-C] THE FRUIT GARDEN.

577

places, as are to be planted with fruit-trees; for this being a
leisure time, that work can be done m a proper manner.

In doing this work, let those rules be observed which are
given in the two preceding months.

If any of the wall-trees, &c, appear of a weakly, declining
sickly state, open the earth about the roots, but not to disturb"
them generally, and then apply a compost of fresh loamy soil, or
other good earth, and some dry rotten dung, well incorporated
together, working it in immediately about the principal roots
and towards their extreme parts ; it will greatly enliven the
growth of the trees the following year.

PLANTING FRUIT TREES.

Fruit, trees of most sorts may still be removed and planted
provided the weather be open : but if the weather be frosty that
work must be deferred till another opportunity.

Let the same methods of planting, distance, &c, be -ob-
served as in the two last months, and in January and Feb.
mart/, &c.

PRUNING GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANT TREES.

Continue to prune gooseberry and currant trees, where
not done, both in the common standard bushes and against
walls, &c.

In these trees let the general branches be kept moderately
thin at somewhat regular distances, cutting out the irregular
placed and superabundant shoots of the last summer, and re-
tain others of the same season that are well placed in proper
parts, in the order advised in the former months ; and prune
to order any branches that grow ramblingly across the others,
and such as grow in a very straggling manner, or other disor-
derly growth, either cutting them close or shortened, as it
shall seem most proper : let any very crowding branches be
pruned thinningly, to keep the heart or middle open ; especi-
ally of the standard bushes, cutting out decayed, or any appa-
-ently unfruitful branches, and dead wood.— See October and
lanuary.

Likewise prune currant and gooseberry trees against walls,
&c, observing, in which, generally to have the principal origi-
nal branches advancing quite from the bottom, and the gene-
ral expansion trained either more or less horizontally or up.
right, as room admits, three or four, to five or six inches asun-
der ; and as they will now abound in many shoots of last
2 B

578

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

[Dec.

summer, cut out the superabundant, the irregular, and any
very extensive luxuriants; but reserving occasional supplies
of some best well placed moderate side laterals, below and
above in the most vacant spaces, and a terminal one to the
advancing branches, &c. ; or where any long, naked, unfruitful
old wood occurs, either cut it quite out, or prune it down to
some good lateral young of a more fruitful nature ; and of the
supply of young shoots now retained, those of much extension
may be pruned or shortened more or less as required, others
of moderate growth remain entire, or as may seem expedient
according to situation lower or higher, or room for training, &c,
and let the branches be nailed up regularly, the distance as
above. — See January.

Let all suckers from the roots of these shrubs, both in stand-
ards and against walls, be also entirely cleared away.

PLANTING AND PROPAGATING GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT
TREES.

Gooseberry and currant trees may still be transplanted into
places where they are wanting, any time in the month, when
open weather, planted about seven or eight feet distance from
one another in the row. — See October, November, January,
and February, &e.

Plant also some white and red currants against walls of
different aspects, for producing earlier, later, and larger fruit ;
or may also plant a few best early gooseberries in a south expo-
sure.

This is still a proper time to plant cuttings of gooseberries
and currants, to raise a supply of young trees ; the method of
preparing and planted them is mentioned in October and the
last month ; also in January and February.

PRUNING AND PLANTING RASPBERRIES.

Prune raspberries, where it was not done in October or last
month ; in pruning these, the same method is now to be ob-
served as in the last months.

Now is also a very good time to plant raspberries, provided
it be open weather ; the manner of preparing these plants,
and planting them, is also the same as mentioned in the pre-
ceding planting months. — -See also January and February.

EXAMINING THE FRUIT IN THE FRUITERY.

Examine the fruit in the fruitery now pretty often ; let them

Dec] the pleasure garden.

579

be looked over with good attention once every week or fort-
night ; and let all such as are rotten or beginning to decay,
be removed ; for if these were permitted to remain, they would
taint the sound fruit near them.

Continue constantly a good covering of clean straw, at least
a foot thick, over the principal keeping fruit ; and secure the
windows of the fruit room from the admission of wet and frost.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN.

Take care now to protect the choice flower plants and roots
from frost, great snows, and heavy rains ; all of which would
damage many sorts of curious roots and plants ; observing the
following general directions in the particular sorts.

CARE OF AURICULAS AND CARNATIONS.

The choice kind of auricula plants in pots should now be
occasionally defended in very wet weather, great snows, and
hard frosts.

If these plants are placed in frames, as was directed two
months ago, let the glasses be kept constantly over them in
bad weather ; or if they are in a bed arched over with hoops,
&c, cover them occasionally with large thick mats, or canvass
cloths.

But when the weather is mild and dry, let the plants be con-
stantly uncovered. — See January.

Or in default of frames or other covered shelters, place the
pots, if not done, in a dry warm south border, &c. — See Octo-
ber, November, and January.

The carnation layers of the curious sorts, which are in pots,
should also have occasional protection from excessive rain,
snow, and severe frosts ; but these plants must have the free
air constantly when the weather is open and riot very wet.

For notwithstanding these above plants, both of auriculas
and carnations, are hardy enough to stand the open weather,
they by occasional shelter, are preserved in a stronger sound
state to flower in best perfection.

PROTECTING HYACINTHS, TULIP-ROOTS, ANEMONES, AND
RANUNCULUSES.

To the beds wherein the fine hyacinth and tulip roots are

580

THE PLEASURE,

[Dec.

planted, some occasional protection, when severe weather,
would be of good advantage in preserving the roots more effect-
ually sound, or from material injury.

On that occasion either cover with a low awning of mats,
&c, or provide some kind of dry long strawy litter, pease straw,
fern, or such like ; and when the frost discovers to set in hard
lay a tolerably warm covering over the surface of the beds ;
but when the weather is less severe, all covering must be
removed.

When any of these plants, of the more estimable curious
kinds in beds, appear above ground, it would also be of mate-
rial advantage to afford them some occasional covering with
large thick mats, &c, as above, in time of severe weather. —
See January and February.

Likewise to the more curious and valuable ranunculuses and
anemones, which are planted in beds, some protection when
the frost is severe would be greatly beneficial, by covering the
beds as above. — See January.

CARE OF SEEDLING PLANTS.

Small young tender seedling flower' plants, or roots, also
demand care at this generally unfavourable season.

Such young tenderish kinds as are in pots, or boxes, may
now, if not done before, be protected somewhat by placing the
pots, tubs, or boxes, in a warm border, or may also plunge
them in the earth ; and in hard frost, long straw litter may be
laid on the surface, and around the sides ; the same protection
of covering may also be given to such as are in beds.

PROTECTING NEW PLANTED SHRUBS AND TREES.

New planted shrubs and trees, of the more tender or choicer
kinds, should have their roots well protected in hard frosty
weather, by laying some dryish mulchy dung, or long dungy
litter, a good thickness on the surface of the ground over the
roots of each plant.

This work is necessary to such of the more tender and
curious kinds of shrubs and trees as were planted in autumn,
that it should not be omitted now, if it was in the last month.

PRUNING SHRUBS, AND DIGGING BETWEEN THEM.

Now go over the flowering shrubs, and prune such as stand
in need of that discipline ; but let this be done in some regulaf
manner, with a knife, and not with garden shears

Dec]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

581

In doing this, all the very strong long rambling shoots of the
last summer's growth, extending considerably beyond the gene-
ral branches of the head, should either be cut close, or reduced
to some regularity ; as also any main branches advancing in
similar disorder, or of low straggling growth ; and cut out dead
wood.

Generally observe in this occasional regulation, to prune in
such order as to keep the plants distinct and clear of one an-
other ; giving therefore attention when any branches of different
shrubs are extended confusedly together, to prune them within
some orderly bounds, whereby to continue them separately dis-
tant, that every different plant may show more distinctly to
view : though sometimes, particular compartments of common
shrubs are permitted to run in close growth, both to affect a
variation in a thickety appearance, and for shade, shelter,
blind, &c, in which very little pruning is required, except to
reduce any remarkably out-growing ramblers.

When the shrubs are pruned, let the ground in the open
shrubberies be dug between the plants, and take up all suckers,
and shorten straggling roots.

PROPAGATING SHRUBS BY SUCKERS FROM THE ROOTS.

The suckers of such shrubs as you would wish to propagate
may be taken up with roots, and planted in nursery rows in
any open compartment : they will make good plants in two
years.

The suckers of roses, lilacs, spiraas, and many other sorts,
if taken up from the old plants in open weather, and planted
out in rows, fifteen inches asunder, will make handsome
plants in one or two years time ; or some strong rose suckers
in particular may be planted at once in borders, &c, to flower
the ensuing summer. '

Or rose suckers may be occasionally planted in a hedge
order along the front or back edge of a border, to be trained in
a dwarf or low hedge to produce large supplies of flowers, for
medical domestic occasions, or other purposes.

DIGGING THE BORDERS, &c, AND PLANTING FLOWERS, SHRUBS -
AND TREES.

Now dig, in open weather, the borders, beds, &c, in the
flower garden, and the clumps and other compartments in the
shrubbery : also dig and prepare the ground where any new
plantations of shrubs, trees, or plants are intended.

S82

THE PLEASURE,

[Dec.

And may still plant, if required, various hardy bulbous, and
fibrous-rooted kinds of the flowering tribe, as in last month, in
dry light soils.

Likewise transplanting may still, in open weather, be con-
tinued among all the hardy kind of flowering shrubs, orna-
mental and forest trees : but particularly of the deciduous
kinds.

But if any of the more tender and curious sorts of trees and
shrubs are planted, it is advisable to mulch the ground over
the roots, to keep out the frost, as advised in page 580. —
See January, &c.

ROLLING GRASS AND GRAVEL WALKS.

In open dry weather, let the principal grass plats, walks,
and lawns, be polled and rolled occasionally, as in November.

Let the gravel walks be also still kept very clean, in dec en*
order, and roll them now and then in dry open weather.

PREPARING COMPOST.

Break up and turn the heaps of compost for curious flowers
in beds and pots, &c, blending the parts well together.

This is a proper 'time to bring in fresh soils and dungs,
wherewith to make new compost heaps ; for these should gener-
ally be prepared several months before they are used for any
purpose ; the principal compost, for choice flowers, being any
light mellow earth, drift sand, or sea sand, &c, light sandy
loam, and a small portion of dry rotten dung — all well blended
together in a heap.

THE CARE OF PLANTS IN POTS.

Take good care now of all such shrubs as are in pots, parti-
cularly the more tender kinds to defend them in severe weather.
That in order to protect the roots the better from frost, let
the pots of shrubs in general, if not done before, be plunged
into their rims in a dry, warm, sheltered compartment.

And the more tender and curious kinds, such as any small
arbutus, magnolias, cistus, African heaths, China arbor vita;,
&c, in pols, should be placed in deep frames, to have occasional
shelter of covering in frosty weather.

Likewise the pots of herbaceous perennial and biennial
flowers, such as double rockets, double rose campion, double
scarlet lychnis, double sweet williams, double wall-flowers,
and double stocks, and other hardy perennial fibrous-rooted

Dec]

OR FLOWER GARDEN.

583

plants in pots, or also pots of bulbous roots, where not moved
to some place of shelter last month, should be done in the
beginning of this : placing some principal sorts in frames, &c,
either in a warm sheltered situation, or some plunged to their
rims in a dry warm spot of ground, to prevent the frost enter-
ing at the sides of the pots to hurt their roots ; and in very
hard frost it will be proper to lay some dry long litter lightly
over the whole.

But where there are any frames or glass case room to spare,
and the pots of some principal sorts of the above kinds of plants
placed therein, and defended occasionally with the glasses,
&c, it will be of great advantage.

PRUNING FOREST TREES.

It is now a proper time to prune all sorts of forest and orna-
mental trees where necessary, observing to trim up all large
side shoots and boughs from the stem, and low straggling
under branches of the head, or to cut or reduce any very disor-
derly rambler above ; but which occasional prunings are more
generally eligible in the deciduous kinds than evergreens at
this season; and in which it may be performed in frosty
weather, when little other business can be done.

PLANTING AND PLASHING HEDGES.

This is a proper time to plant any sorts of hedges of the
deciduous kinds : particularly such as hawthorns, beech, elm,
horn-beam, privet, elder, berberry, black-thorn, or sloe; pro-
cure young sets of two or three years' growth; prune the long
tops to equal regularity, and trim long straggling roots ; then
plant them either in a single row, or double for a strong out-
ward hedge, six or eight inches apart in the rows.

May also plant alder, willow, and poplar hedges, in moist,
marshy, or watery places, or where required ; either by rooted
young plants, or small or large cuttings of the shoots and
branches.

Hedges for outward fences are commonly planted in the side
or top of a raised bank, formed with a ditch on the outside ;
the sets being inserted either slopingly into the side, or upright
on the top of the bank ; but internal garden hedges are planted
on level ground.

Where fence hedges are grown up tall, rude, and naked at
bottom, they may now be plashed, or laid down to render them
thick, in every part, performed by gashing the lower parts of

58i

THE NURSERY.

[Dec.

the larger stems, &c., to admit of bending down in the requisite
position, conformably with the smaller branches ; laying them
down accordingly horizontally between other stems left erect
for growing stakes, cut even at top, three, four, or five feet high.

THE NURSERY.

. Continue in open weather to dig the ground between the
rows of continuing young trees and shrubs ; and as you pro-
ceed in the digging, let all the weeds on the surface be buried
properly to the bottom.

NEW PLANTED TREES.

Continue the care of the more curious and tender kinds of
new planted young trees; where they were not mulched in
November, let some now be laid between the rows, and close
up to the bottom of their stems, to protect the roots from bein°-
hurt by severe frost.

Let the stems of new planted tall trees be now properly
supported with stakes, where it may appear necessary in some
particular sorts, more especially in situations exposed to the
power of tempestuous winds.

SEEDLING TREES.

Take care also of the tender seedling exotics ; they, while
young, require some shelter in severe weather.

Let these be now protected in hard frosts by covering them
in the manner directed last month, but being careful not to
omit uncovering them in open mild weather.

The beds of tree seeds, berries, and acorns, which were
sown in October, or the beginning of last month, would be
greatly benefited if in rigorous frosty weather they could be
covered with pease straw, fern, or other dry long litter.

This should be practised before the frost has far penetrated
into the ground ; but in particular to the beds of acorns, for
these very soon shoot after committed to the ground, and the
frost would very much affect them.

TRENCHING, DIGGING, AND MANURING.

Forward the trenching of such pieces of ground as are to be
planted with young nursery trees, shrubs, &c, in the spring.

Dec]

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

585

; In doing this, let the ground be laid up in ridges ; the frost
will thus have more power to mellow, and rain less opportunity
to over- wet it ; for the ridges will not detain wet like ground
laid perfectly flat.

Carry dung also to such vacant compartments as want it,
and spread it of an equal thickness over the surface of the
ground, and digged in regularly, a moderate spade deep.

PROPAGATING TREES AND SHRUBS.

You may still continue to make layers, and plant cuttings of
hardy trees and shrubs, and transplant suckers ; and for the
method of treating each, see the two preceding months, and
January and February.

PROTECTING YOUNG TREES AND PLANTS IN POTS AND BEDS.

Give protection to young, more tender, and curious trees,
shrubs, and plants, in frosty weather.

Any in pots may be placed either in frames to have shelter
with the glasses, &c, or under an awning to be covered with
mats ; or all other more hardy kinds in pots should be plunged
in the ground in a dry sheltered situation, if not done last
month.

Or, likewise any of the more curious or tender young ever-
green and other exotics in beds should have some occasional
protection in very severe weather, either by defending the bed
with frames, &c, or an awning placed across, and covered with
mats and long litter; or, in want of the above, some light
substance of straw litter ; or, pease haum, spread over the beds.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Continue to take advantage of every fine day, when the wea-
ther is open, to admit fresh air to the plants in the green-house :
for this, notwithstanding the generally unfavourable temperature
of the weather at this season, is a very necessary article for the
benefit of the plants in general. If they are kept too close, it
will not only, in some degree, tenderise and weaken the plants,
but also occasion the leaves of some kinds to change of a yellow-
ish sickly colour, and be frequently dropping.

Therefore every day, when the weather is mild, and the wind
2 n 2

586

THE GREEK-HOUSE.

[Dec.

not sharp, let the windows be opened about nine or ten o'clock
in the morning, and shut again about three or four in the after-
noon, or sooner, if the air becomes too cold.

But never omit giving a large share of fresh air every sunny
day in mild weather.

Or occasionally; in giving air in mild weather, if the wind
blows rather sharply towards the front of the green-house,
should only draw down some of the top sashes a little way, so
as the wind cannot enter below immediately upon the plants.

Note. — It will not at this season be proper to allow the green-
house any fresh air in foggy or very wet days ; at such times
let the house be kept quite close.

In severe frost the windows must never be open.

In continued severe frosty weather, great care must be taken
to secure the door and windows of the green-house in such a
manner as the frost cannot enter that way to affect the plants.

Therefore in the time of very rigorous frost, the window-
shutters, if any, must be shut close every night ; and for the
greater security, it will also be proper to nail up mats against
all the shutters; or in default of shutters, apply an eligible
defence of large thick mats against all the glasses, above and
below, especially of nights ; or also occasionally in the day
time, when continued severe weather, and no sun.

Likewise, when the frost happens to be very severe, it will,
for the better protection of the plants, be advisable to make
a moderate fire if there is the accommodation of flues, which
are very necessary in every good green-house, both as an occa-
sional defence against the rigours of frost, and to expel great
damps in foggy and very wet weather : but in defect of flues,
in hard frosts, make a moderate fire in some convenient uten-
sil, and place it within the green-house, towards the front,
observing to move some of the plants a little away, if too near
where the fire is placed ; or in green-houses not furnished with
flues, a Buzaglo stove, in which to make moderate fires, in
frosty weather, would prove beneficial— -as this kind of cast-
iron stove, being placed in a proper situation, towards the
front, about the middle way of the house, diffuses an extensive
warmth in the internal air : though where proper fire flues are
constructed internally along the front, and continued all round,
they are greatly preferable for this occasion.

But as these fires in either method are only particularly ne-
cessary in the green-house in sharp frosty weather, they should
be continued accordingly every night and mornings and some*

Dec]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

£87

times all day when the frost is excessive : but always wholly
discontinued in moderate open weather ; or only made occa-
sionally in very foggy weather ; and after great thaws, to expel
the damps. — See January.

WATERING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Water must now and then be given to the plants in the
green-house, for most of the woody kinds will require that
assistance at due times.

But in watering these plants make it always a rule at this
season to give only a very moderate quantity to " each pot or
tub at a time ; for if they are once over watered at this season
of the year, so as to render the earth very wet, it will remain so
for a long time, and most assuredly occasion the plants to drop
their leaves, especially the orange and lemon-trees, and totally
destroy some of the more tender kinds.

For that reason let particular care be taken in watering, to
do it with moderation, and to give the water only to such pots
and tubs as are in want of that article.

The aloes and other succulent plants must now be very
seldom and also very sparingly watered ; for much moisture at
this season would rot these kind of plants. — See January and
February.

KEEPING THE PLANTS CLEAN.

The green-house plants in general should now be kept per-
fectly clear from decayed leaves, and any contracted foulness,
for this is necessary to preserve their health as well as beauty.

Therefore, as soon as any such leaves appear upon the
plants, let them immediately be removed : and also cut out
any decayed shoots and dead wood that may from time to time
appear ; likewise where any plants have contracted considerable
foulness of dust, &c, it should be cleaned off as well as possible,
clearing away also all dead leaves which drop from the plants.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

CARE OP' THE FRUITING PINES, AND OTHER PLANTS IN THE
HOT-HOUSE.

Continue great attention at this season to the fruiting pines,
and all the other tender exotics in the hot-house, to support a

£88

TUB HOT-HOUSE.

[Dec.

good fire heat every night, and cold mornings, and give occa-
sional waterings, and fresh air, as explained below ; and as to
the bark-bed heat, it being renewed in October, will most
probably be still in a good temperature, and which is now
equally necessary as the heat by fire ; both of which being
essentially eligible, in conjunction, at this season.

Every evening, about three, four, or five o'clock, according
to the temperature of the weather, continue to make the hot-
house fires ; ■ observing, as said last month, never to make the
fire too strong, so as to render the heat of the wall of the flues
anywise violent, for that would prove of bad consequence to
the pines and other plants.

You are likewise now to observe, as advised last month, that
in very cold weather the hot-house fires must be continued also
in the morning ; and in severe frosts, and but little or no sun,
they must be supported all the day long.

The person who attends the fires should always, the last
thing before he goes to bed, examine them, and add more fuel
if wanted, sufficient to support a proper degree of internal heat
till morning, — the most preferable fuel for this occasion, in the
hot-house fires, is coals or cinders,, because of the regularity
and duration of their heat ; yet wood, turf, or peat will do, in
default of coals, but require more attendance to regulate and
augment the fire.

The bark-bed heat is also at this time most essential ; but
if this was renewed in October, or beginning of November,
with a full supply of fresh tan, it will probably be still in a
proper state of heat ; if, however, towards the end of this
month, that is considerably decreased, let it be revived by fork-
ing up the bark, as directed in January.

At this season, in severe frosts it would be proper to cover
the lights of the hot-house every evening, especially to remain
till morning, either with shutters or large thick garden-mats,
the more effectually to repel the frost when excessive ; or also
to continue the covering occasionally in the day in very rigorous
weather, when cloudy and no sun; though shutters, &c, are
not now commonly used ; but supporting a proper degree of
fire heat internally, sufficient to resist the entrance of frost, and
giving occasional covering as above : — formerly large thick
painted canvass cloths, or strong mats made to roll up and let
down by pulleys and lines, on long poles extending the length
of the hot-house, were used for night covering ; but sometimes
an inconvenience attended this sort of covering, both in being

Dec]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

580

frozen immoveable, and in stormy weather, by the wind
raising and dashing the canvass, &c, against the glasses, and
breaking them.

SUCCESSION PINES.

The succession pine plants in the pit or succession house
should have the same care taken of them as directed above ;
the management of these and the fruiting plants is the same,
only observing to make the fires in general rather more mode-
rate, or as regular as possible, which, if not observed, may
force them into a fruiting state at an improper time ; to pre*
vent which, the greatest care should be taken, until they have
acquired such a proper degree of growth as to be able to pro-
duce handsome sized fruit, which they are not capable of until
they are two years old ; at which age they in October should
be placed in a fruiting house, or such stove department wherein
it is intended they shall produce their fruit.

WATERING AND GIVING AIR.

The pines and other plants in the hot-house will still require
to be now and then watered.

But in watering them, especially the pines, take care to do
it moderately, and not oftener at this season than about once a
week or fortnight.

When there happens to come a fine sunny calm day, it will
be proper to admit some fresh air into the hot-house, by slid-
ing some of the glasses a little way open, from ten or eleven to
two o'clock ; but be sure to shut them again in due time, and
especially if the weather alters to cloudy or sharply cold.

YOUNG PINE PLANTS.

Those young pine plants, which are plunged in dung or bark-
beds, made detached from the stove departments, must have a
very careful attendance at this season ; the heat of the bed
must be duly kept up by applying a lining of new horse-
dung to the sides, as often as the bed decreases much in its
heat.

' The glasses also must be covered every night, and in all bad
weather, with mats or straw; and some straw or other dry
litter should likewise be laid close round about the outside of
the frame.

590

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[Deo,

EARLY KIDNEY BEANS IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

Some time in this month you may plant some early dwarf
kidney beans in pots or in boxes, and place them in the hot-
house, upon the top of the bark-bed wall or front flues, &c, by
which means you will have a chance of a small early produce ;
as they seldom yield considerably from this season of planting.
— See January and February.

You may likewise now sow cucumber seed in pots, and
plunge them into the bark-bed in the hot-house, and the
plants may be transplanted into other pots or in boxes placed
near the glasses ; this may be done for a trial, which, if they
succeed, will come in at a very early season.

I have observed that cucumber plants succeed rather best in
the hot-house, when placed moderately near the top sloping
glasses ; having the pots or boxes containing the seed or plants
placed upon a suspended or bracketed shelf, &c, within about
eighteen inches or two feet of the inclined sashes, towards the
higher part of the fixed upper tier of lights, nearly over the
back alley, or flue, not to shade or annoy the plants below.

But, however, where this cannot be conveniently done,
let the pots or boxes be placed in the manner mentioned in
January.

In the hot-house may also introduce pots of mint roots,
small salad seeds, when required, as forward as possible on
any particular occasion at this season, as they will very soon
come up proper to gather.

You may likewise, in this or next month, place pots of rose
trees in the hot-house ; and also honeysuckles and such other
small flowering shrubs as you desire, by way of curiosity, to
blow early. — See January and February.

Pots of pinks, carnations, or any other such like kind of
flowers, may also be placed in the hot-house towards the latter
end of this month to produce some early flowers.

EARLY CUCUMBERS IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

MINT AND SMALL SALAD.

EARLY ROSES, &c, IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

Dec.]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

591

' EARLY BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS FLOWERS IN THE HOT-
HOUSE.

Likewise may introduce pots or boxes planted with spring
blowing bulbous and tuberous rooted flowers in the hot-house'
for an early bloom.

For this purpose may have the dwarf early tulips, any sorts
of hyacinths, polyanthus narcissus, common narcissus, jonquils,
bulbous iris, fritillarias, spring crocus, and any other of the
spring and early summer flowering bulbs ; likewise anemones
and ranunculus, &c: plant them in pots of light earth, an inch
or two deep, and place them any where in the hot-house, give
very moderate waterings, and they will blow agreeably at an
early season.

Or any sort of bulbous roots in water glasses, being placed
in the hot-house, will flower very agreeably in tolerably good
perfection in winter, and early in the spring.

VINES IN THE HOT-HOUSE AND VINERIES, &o/

Grape vines planted along the outside of the front of the
hot-house, and the stem or main shoot of each being left of
some considerable length, and each conducted through a hole
in front, into the hot-house, nearly close above the front flues ;
or introduced close to the bottom and trained up between the
said flue and the front work, by which the stem is also defended
from, the weather : and in either method, the branches, &c,
being trained up the inside and under the sloping glasses they
will bear fine early grapes with but very little trouble.

They will not only require an annual pruning early in win-
ter, and summer dressing, to regulate the shoots of the year t
each performed nearly as directed for the vines in the open
ground ; observing at this time, it is proper, in these vines, to
protect the outside stem, where open to the weather, by wrap-
ping them round closely with hay or straw bands, &c.

But in vineries, or forcing fruit-houses, the vines are most
generally planted within, in the borders behind and in front,
and trained as above intimated.

Or pots of immediate bearing pines may be introduced into
the hot-houses or vineries* &c, any time this or next month to
produce early grapes the ensuing season.

EARLY STRAWBERRIES IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

Towards the end of this month may begin to introduce some

592

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[Deo.

pots of scarlet and Alpine strawberries into the hot-house for
the first early production. — See January. ■

PREPARING FOR FORCING FRUIT TREES IN HOT- WALLS, &e.

In this month you may begin to prepare for forcing fruit
trees in hot walls, vineries, cherry-houses, and other forcing
departments by fire, or bark-bed heat, &c, or both to produce
early fruit; and the sorts of trees for this purpose are
peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, vines, figs, plums, and
occasionally gooseberries* currants, raspberries, and also straw-
berry plants.

Observing the trees of all the above sorts may now be planted,
if not done before, in the borders of the forcing depart-
ments, and some also in pots, to remove therein occasionally ;
and for which purpose have ready trained trees, that are arrived
to a bearing state, which may be obtained in great perfection
in most of the public nurseries ; and if removed and planted
With balls either from the full ground or large pots, it will be
the greater advantage, especially if any are particularly wanted
for forcing the same year : but, in the general part it is
most eligible, previously to forcing, to allow the trees to have
at least a year's growth after planting for this occasion ; and
generally plant a principal supply of wall trees against the back
wall, and some against the upright front glasses, ten feet asun-
der ; or sometimes, if the width and convenience of the place
admits, may plant a row of low dwarf trees lengthways, either
behind or in front of the bark-pit where any, or if none, planted
along the middle ; having, for the whole, a trellis, of slight
thin railing, &c, erected, on which to train the branches of the
trees in regular order ; and those in the front have the
branches trained up under and parallel to the top or inclined
glasses, at six or eight inches distance therefrom ; and may
plant also some in some small headed standards, both in
dwarfs and half and full standard trees especially duke
cherries.

Towards the end of this month, put on all the glasses of
these forcing departments, to defend the trees from the wea-
ther, preparatory to forcing, which may be commenced the
beginning, middle, or latter end of January, by making fires in
the different forcing places ; or where there is a pit within,
for a bark-bed or dung hot-bed, or a bed made with hot
dung below and tan bark above, make the said beds therein
accordingly.

Dec]

THE HOT-HOUSE.

593

Sometimes pears are also forced of some best early summer
kinds, such particularly as the jargonelle, and sometimes the
green chasseas ; the trees of which having been planted and
trained against a south wall some years, and arrived at a pro-
per bearing state, and then glass frame work erected to enclose
the trees, and furnished with internal flues ranged along the
front or middle for fire heat, and sometimes with a pit for a
bark-bed, or dung heat, as above, extending along the middle
space within ; and which forcing frame is worked by the fire
or bark-bed heat, &c, or both occasionally ; and by which have
seen very fine jargonelles early in June, two months before their
natural season (beginning and middle of August.)

Having thus far concluded the general horticultural direction
in the different practical branches for the twelve months in the
year, with numerous very considerable improvements in every
department, according to the modern system and most success-
ful general methods in practice, as much as the limited pages
of this book would sufficiently admit, shall next proceed to the
General Lists, exceedingly much improved, of the numerous
cultivated plants, trees, shrubs, flowers, fruits, &c., of the
British Gardens and Plantations, arranged under several different
heads, according to their nature of growth, temperature, and
respective uses, in the several garden districts, as in the fore-
going directions.

GENERAL CATALOGUE.

ARRANGEMENTS

OF THE

PLANTS AND TREES;

OR

Complete general Lists and Explanations of the different tribes and
numerous species and varieties of Plants, Trees, Shrubs, Flowers, and
Fruits, both natives and exotics, comprised in this woft, and of most
others proper for cultivation in the British Gardens, Plantations, and
Nurseries, Green-Houses, Hot-Houses, Hot-Beds, &c, arranged under
different classes or divisions, according to their respective uses in the
several garden departments, and their different natures of growth,
as herbaceous and woody, hardy and tender, &c, in the following
order:

LIST OF THE KITCHEN GARDEN ESCULENT PLANTS AND HERBS.

Comprising the various different species, and their respective principal
varieties proper for general culture ; consisting of Annual or one year's
plants, Biennials or two years' plants, and of Perennials or plants of
several years' duration by the root, and some both in root and top ; but
the Annuals and Biennials are considerably the most numerous, and
must be raised every year from seed, and some several times in that
period, to continue a regular succession, as intimated of the particular
sorts in the following general List: and the Perennials are raised some
also by seed, and others by suckers, offsets, slips, cutting, &c, as is also
hinted in the general List aforesaid, under the respective names of the
different species, &c, raised by one or other of these methods; and
being once raised, they continue many years by the root, &c, as before
intimated.

As the Kitchen Garden may generally be considered as the principal, or
at least the most profitably useful district, of the horticultural depart-
ments, in its numerous productions, wholly of the different sorts ot
esculent vegetables, essential articles of food beneficially important in
domestic economy, have judged it expedient to give not only a general
List of the different species, and their respective varieties of the
Kitchen Garden Plants, but also short descriptive intimations of the
nature and growth of the different sorts : as Annual, Biennial, Peren-
nial, &c, peculiar properties for culinary and other family uses,
methods, and times of propagating, sowing, planting, order of cidture,
and seasons of perfection ; which will convey some useful previous hints,
preparatory to proceeding in the general cultivation; referring, how-
ever, to the general work of the different months for the full cultural
particulars of the respective sorts.

596 LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

Note. — Observe that as the following List of the Kitchen Garden Plants
consists of Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials, as before intimated, have
distinguished them accordingly;' — the Annuals marked thus*, Bien-
nialsf , and the Perennials^ ; and as some are Annual-Biennial, that is,
such as when sowed early in the spring go to seed the same year, such
as turnips, celery, endive, &c, but when sowed later in their respective
seasons of spring, and early part of summer, stand without running,
attaining perfection the same year, and continue till the spring follow-
ing, are marked^ ; other sorts, being somewhat Annual-Perennial, that,
although they continue Perennial, by root offsets, yet require fresh
planting every year, as potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, garlic, shallots,
mushrooms, &c, are marked||.

t ASPARAGUS, a hardy plant of
the perennial nature of many
years' duration by the root; and
of great estimation for its annual
produce of numerous young top
shoots arising from the roots for
use in April or May, and June
or July ; then permitted to run
to stalks till October.

Gravesend asparagus, large,

Battersea,

Deptford,
and of each of which there are :

Redtopped, or of a reddish brown,
generally close and plump.

Green.

But these several varieties differ
principally in the first three by
means of different soils, situa-
tions, and culture, in being of
larger, smaller, and closer plump
growth; always raised from seed
sowed in the spring, once in
several years for a single planta-
tion ; and when the plants are one
year old or two at most, must be
transplanted into beds, in rows
a foot asunder; and when of
three years' transplanted growth
will produce shoots of proper size
for cutting; and the same plants
continue many years in good pro-
duction, principally in May, June,
&?,., as before observed ; and may

also be obtained in winter by forc-
ing in hot-beds, by introducing
proper plants of two or three
years' transplanted growth in the
full ground.

$ Artichoke; a plant of the perennial
tribe, producing from the root
annually its large squamose heads,
in full growth in June or July, and
August, till October or Novem-
ber, comprising two varieties, viz.

Olobe Artichoke; large globular
reddish heads ; best for general
culture.

Green oval, or French.

Both sorts by young suckers. From
the bottom in the spring, planted
in rows four or five feet asunder,
will produce heads the same year
in autumn, and will continue
by the roots in several years' pro- ,
duction.

J[ Artichoke; Jerusalem; a tuberous-
rooted perennial of tall growth,
producing large roundish, oblong,
irregular, fleshy tubers in the
ground, the eatable parts; in per-
fection in autumn and winter tiL
spring, to boil and eat with but-
ter, &c. ; good and wholesome ;
only one species which is of the
helianthus or sunflower tribe,
called by the botanists helianthus
tuberous, tuberous sunflower,
commonly called Jerusalem arti-
choke.

LIST OF KITCHEN

But the plant is of very dissimilar
growth to that of a common arti-
choke, growing more like a tall
sunflower, of which it is a species
as aforesaid ; and which, though
commonly called Jerusalem arti-
choke is not a native of that part,
but principally of America.

Is raised by oflset tubers of the root,
or rather cuttings of the large
main tubers ; to be planted every
year in the spring, in rows two
or three feet asunder, and three
or four inches deep : and will be
of full growth in the root to take
up in October, November, &c.

•j" Alexanders; a salad and culinary
herb of biennial growth, with
stalky trifoliate leaves, not now in
much request; is sometimes used
in salads and soups, &c, when
blanched a little by earthing up
like celery; raised by seed in
spring and summer, either in drill
rows to remain, or transplanted
five or six inches apart in shallow
drills, fifteen or eighteen inches
asunder.

Angelica; a plant of large tall growth,
its young tender shoots in spring
and summer to candy, &c; raised
by seed sowed in spring or
autumn, for transplanting in sum-
mer, two or three feet asunder.

Anise; a small portion of this is
sufficient for a large family, being
only cultivated for a garnish, and
some time used for seasoning.

B

% Balm, an aromatic family herb,
one species, viz.
Common balm.

Propagated by parting the roots,
or offset slips, spring and au-
tumn ; planted six or eight inches
apart.

* Basil, a tender aromatic annual

herb for salads and soups, &c.
Dwarf or bush basil,
Large sweet basil,

GARDEN PLANTS. 697

\

Raised by seed in a hot-bed in
spring, for planting into the full
ground in May.

* Bean, many varieties ; very profit-
able to cultivate several full crops
annually, for summer and autumn
productions, from June till Sep-
tember or October.

Early Mazagan, smallest and most
early,

Early Lisbon, small,

Early long-podded smallish mid-
dling,

Large long-pod, good middling,

Sword long-pod, of superior length
of pod and size,

Broad Spanish, middling large,

Toker, moderately large,

Sandwich, largish,

Windsor broad beau, large,

Kentish Windsor, larger,

Taylor's Windsor, largest,

White blossom smallish middling,
a great bearer, and fine sweet eat-
ing bean,

Mumford, middling size,

Green nonpareil, smallish,

Dwarf cluster or fan, being of very
low growth and small pods, &c.

Red Blossom, middling.

All by seed (the beans) in several
different successional sowings or
plantings, or at least once every
mouth from November, December,
or January, &c, till May, June,
or July. — See these different
months; but generally the princi-
pal crops are planted in January,
February, March, April, all
planted in rows two to three feet
asunder, according to the smaller,
middling, and larger kinds ; mostly
by dibble-planting, two to three or
four inches apart in the row, and
two inches deep ; or smaller kinds,
or others, occasionally planted in
drills: and generally all to remain
where planted. See November,
December, and January; or any
sorts will also succeed by trans-
planting, as may be occasionally
required.

598

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

Beet; useful culinary plants seve-
ral varieties, some for their root,
and some for their leaves, viz.,

Red beet, for its root, of which
there are,

Long rooted,

Short or turnip rooted.

The roots are large, deep red, and
fleshy, used for pickling, and
boiled to slice in salads cold, or to
eat alone with vinegar, &c,
raised by sowing every spring, in
February or March, &c, to con-
tinue in full growth all summer
for autumn and winter; sowed
either broadcast, or in drills a foot
asunder; all to remain where
sowed, and thinned ten or twelve
inches distance.

Green beet,

White beet,

Both these two last for their leaves
to boil as spinach, and for soups,
&c, in spring, summer, autumn,
&c, and the thick fleshy leaf stalks
of the white sorts also to dress
like asparagus. Raised by seed
eveiy spring, and occasionally in
summer and autumn either in
drills a foot asunder, or sowed
broadcast, and the plants thinned
accordingly; all to remain where
sowed, or some occasionally trans-
planted in young growth in rows.

Mangel wursel, or great rooted
German beet. The root very long
and large, with large long leaves ;
but the leaves only are estimable
for household occasions in sum-
mer and autumn, &c, to boil
as greens or as spinach, and the
stalks of the leaves dressed in the
manner of asparagus; is sowed
in the spring and summer in drills
as the green and white sort, to
remain or occasionally trans-
planted. But in the first intro-
duction of this sort into this coun-
try, a few years ago, a pamphlet
was published on its superior
merits and method of culture, &c,
with great encomiums on its root,

called the Root of Scarcity : i{
however, is only a mongrel variety
of the red and green beet, &c., and
its root not palatably relishing in
any culinary preparations for the
table ; that it is better adapted to
field culture for its large root to
feed cattle.
Borage j a family herb, to use on
different occasions ; one sort only,
viz.,

Officinal, or common borage.

The young leaves are used in salads,
soups, &c, and the leaves and
flower-shoots in negus, .or cool
tankards, in summer and autumn ;
is raised by seed in spring, sum-
mer, and autumn, to remain ; and
thinned from six to twelve inches
distance.

t Borecole ; sometimes called
Scotch Kale, plants of the open
cabbage or colewort kind, with a
tall stem, and large head of curly
leaves, not cabbaging, but remain-
ing open and loose to the heart.
Of hardy growth, to stand for
winter greens, and the side sprouts
for spring.
The varieties are,

Green borecole,

Brown or purple,

Finely fringed leaved,

Spreading leaved,

Upright leaved.

But the first two are the general
common varieties, having generally
spreading heads; though the others
also rise accidentally from seed,
and by care in saving seed from
only the best sorts of the respective
varieties, may all be continued per-
manent.

They all grow with a strong upright
stem, two or three feet high or
more, crowned with a large head
of open leaves, more or less fim-
briated crumply, or curled, and are
excellent hardy open greens for
winter, &c, are all raised every
year from seed sowed in March
and April, and planted out in sum-

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

599

mer two or three feet asunder. —
See the springand summer months.
§ Broccoli ; plants of the brassica
or cabbage tribe, not cabbaging,
but producing a compact central
head formed of the advancing
flower and seed buds, in the man-
ner of a cauliflower ; most excellent
eating, acquiring useful growth for
the table the latter end of autumn
and in winter, and in superior per-
fection in the spring, in large full
heads, consisting of several varie-
ties, viz.

Early dwarf purple to sow early for

autumn production,
Early green,

Large late purple for main crops,
Dwarf late purple, spring,
Late green,
Brown,

White, or eauliflower broccoli, of
great similarity to a cauliflower,
and scarcely inferior for eating.
They are plants of' much estimation
for their fine central heads afore-
said, of most tender and delicate
eating, and proper to cultivate in
principal crops; all raised every
year from seed in the spring, and
early part of summer, in three or
four sowings, from March and
April to the end of May, for early
and late production of proper full
heads, from October or Novem-
ber, till April or May following;
planted out in summer, in best
rich ground, in rows, two to three
feet asunder.
f Burnet ; a small culinary and
salad herb, with pinnate evergreen
leaves of a warm relish; used in
winter and spring salads and other
occasions; raised by seed in the
spring, and slipping or parting
the roots in spring or autumn;
planted six to twelve inches
asunder.

G

CAPSICUM, for its seed-pods of a

hot spicy nature to pickle, &c.
consisting of several varieties, viz.

Long-podded,

Heart-shape,

Bell-shape,

Angular podded,

Round short-podded,
' Cherry shaped, &c.

Are all tender annuals, to be sowed
in a hoWjed, March or April,
and planted out in May, or early
in June, a foot distance, and will
produce plenty of pods green and
ripe, for use in July, August,
and September, &c, being first
green, and ripens to a bright red
colour ; some yellowish.

■j- Cabbage, a plant of superior use-
fulness at all seasons, both in its
headed cabbaged growth, and its
open colewort state; and should
be cultivated plentifully in princi-
pal crops in all gardens, for sum-
mer, autumn, winter, and spring
supply of a family and market;
and consists of several varieties,
viz.

Small early dwarf,

Early dwarf Yorkshire,

Large early Yorkshire,

Early dwarf sugar-loaf,

Large sugar-loaf superior for main

crop,
Battersea, early,
Imperial, early,
Early Russia,
Early Antwerp,
Early Lewisham.

Of the above, any or some of each of
the first three or four sorts for the
forwardest early crops; but most
of the large York and large sugar
loaf and any of the last four sorts,
are superior for the principal
early and general summer cab-
bages; of the large York and
sugar loaf aforesaid, the imperial,
and Antwerp, are excellent for a
general summer supply, and a
continuance for autumn, &c, all
sowed both in the spring, Febru-
ary, March, April, to obtain ma-

600

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

turity the same year; and sowed
in August to remain in young
growth all winter for the early
and first general summer crops
next year, and succeeded by the
spring-sowed, as above, and the
following larger kinds for autumn
and winter.
Large oblong hollow,
Long-sided, hollow,
Large white, round.
These last three are large autumn
and winter cabbages, in Septem-
ber, October, and November, &c.
sowed both in the spring, Febru-
ary, or March, &c, to cabbage the
same year in autumn and winter ;
and sowed early in August to re-
main in young growth till next
spring, then planted out to cab-
bage sooner the following autumn,
and in larger growth than the
spring-sowed crops.
Red Dutch, principally for pickling,
or to shred raw as a salad, in
autumn, winter, and spring.
This, in the true sort, is of a very
deep or dark red; with thick
fleshy leaves, cabbaging very hard ;
is sowed in August to plant out
in spring for the principal crops
next year, to cabbage large and
ellisctually in full perfection the
following autumn and winter, and
sowed in spring to plant out early
in summer for cabbaging the same
year in autumn and winter, but
not so fully as the autumnal sowed
plants, as above.
Large Scotch winter cabbage, most
large, principally for field culture
to feed cattle.
Large drum cabbage, also very large,
flat-headed for the same use as the
last.

Both sorts are sowed in the spring
to cabbage the same year in autumn
and winter; and in August for
next year, to cabbage in larger full
growth in the above seasons.

In the foregoing cabbages in general,
observe generally, in sowing the

main crops, always to adopt a
principal sowing of the desirable or
particular sorts intended, early in
autumn (beginning of August), to
stand over the winter in young
growth, to plant out in the spring,
to come in for the early and first
and general principal crops the fol-
lowing summer and autumn ; that
is, generally sow for this occasion
in the early part of August, or not
later than from about the fifth or
sixth to the tenth or twelfth of
that month; for if sowed before
August, many would be apt to run
for seed in the spring in their
young open growth, and thereby
disappoint you of a full crop ; and
if sowed later than the time above
specified, the plants would not
generally acquire good size and
strength to stand the winter effec-
tually.

And to succeed the above, or in case
of their being much cut by the
severity of the winter, or that none
were sowed or raised in autumn,
or as may be required, it is proper
always to sow also some in the
spring, in February, or March, or
April, to plant out in May, June,
&c, to come in for succession cab-
bages, or general crops, cabbaging
the same year in summer and
autumn till winter.
Or, likewise, when required to have
a succession of young light cabbages
continued in the autumn season,
August, September, October, and
till winter, may sow in May or
June and July; and also at the
same time may sow some proper
sorts for open cabbage coleworts
for autumn and winter, and early
spring supply; but not to sow
before the beginning of August for
the general crops of continuing
spring coleworts to stand through -
out that season without running,
which would most generally be the
case if sowed sooner.— See Cele-
toort.

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

Onlibage Savoy. — See Savoy.
Turnip-rooted cabbage, having a
large turnip-like bulb under ground.
Turnip-stalked cabbage, with the

bulb above ground.
They are of the open colewort tribe,
the leaves not cabbaging to a close
head ; the turnip-like swelling part
grows very large, but is seldom
used domestically, or only occa-
sionally when young, and are prin-
cipally for field culture; or a few in
gardens for variety, sowed in the
spring, &c, and transplanted early
in summer.
Cabbage colewort. — See Colewort.
Cabbage, sea beach, or sea colewort ;
a plant of the perennial tribe of
open spreading growth, estimable
for its young blanched shoots arising
from the roots in the spring ; grows
naturally on some of our sea-shores,
but cultivated in gardens, consist-
ing of only one species, called by
the botanists Crambe maritimum,
or sea cabbage.

Is cultivated for its young shoots
aforesaid, rising from the roots
through the earth in the spring, &c.
thick, close, and fleshy, blanched
white, tender, and good, if cut in
young close growth: the leaves
growing large and spreading, never
cabbage ; is raised by seed in the
spring, sowed either in drills to
remain, or for transplanting in
rows, one to two feet asunder. —
See March and April. Will also
grow by cuttings of the root.

Cardoon ; a biennial plant of most
large upright growth, three or four
feet, in the manner of artichokes ;
in request in some families for its
large, thick, fleshy leaf-stalks, when
blanched by earthing up in advan-
ced growth; attaining perfection
end of autumn and all winter till
spring; is of the artichoke family,
by the botanists called Cynara
Carduncidus, or cardoon.

It is raised from seed sowed annually
in the spring, March or April, for

transplanting in June, &c. four feet
asunder, both to have full scope for
its large growth, and proper space
of ground between for landing them
up two feet or more, to whiten of
that length. — See March, April,
and June, and following months
till October, &c.
f Carrot ; a valuable useful esculent
root, is of biennial growth, attain-
able at all seasons of the year ; first
in young and middling growth in
May, June, and July; large in
August and September, and in
largest full growth in October, &c.
continuing good all winter till
April or May following, and should
be cultivated plentifully in princi-
pal crops ; two varieties, viz.
Common orange carrot, being of an
orange colour ; most large long root,
proper for the main crops.
Early horn carrot; short, smaller

root, for early crops.
Of the above two varieties, the first
is superior for general culture and
the principal main crops, preferable
for its long large growth in the
root; !ind the second to sow occa-
sionally for smaller early crops;
both sorts sowed in the spring, Fe-
bruary for early, and March and
April for main crops ; and to sow
in May and July, &c. for succes-
sional young carrots in summer,
autumn, winter, &c. ; also a sowing
the beginning of August to stand
the winter, in young growth for
early young spring carrots in March
or April, &c. all sowed in light,
deep mellow ground, broadcast, and
rake it in with good regularity ;
and the plants thinned in May and
June, &c. three or four to six or
eight inches distance in the differ .
ent crops, some to draw young,
and the main crops to stand for
large full growth, and thinned to a
proper distance accordingly, to con-
tinue in increasing growth in the
root till the end of October ; then
taken up, and housed in sand for
2c

602

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

the winter. — See October and No-
vember, Sec.

Cauliflower j a plant of the brassica
or cabbage tribe, of general estima-
tion, and considerably profitable to
cultivate in principal crops, for its
large, white, central flower-head,
arising in the middle of the sur-
rounding leaves, formed of the ad-
vancing young flower-buds, in a
close firm cluster of large circum-
ferences most excellent eating;
obtained in summer, autumn, and
winter, from May, or June, till
December ; but in superior perfect
tion in June, July, and August;
consisting of two varieties, viz.

Early, — for the first early crops,

Large late, — that is probably, only a
few days later; proper, for the
general main crops.

They are raised in successional crops
by sowing in autumn, spring, and
summer, — that is, sowing the early
and main summer-crops towards
the latter end of the third week in
August, to stand the winter in
young growth. Some planted out
in October under hand glasses,
others in frames, &c, to plant out
in spring ; all for the general early
and principal main crops next sum-
mer ; and a sowing in the spring
for later or succession crops the
same year in July or August, &e.
Likewise a sowing in the fourth
week in May, to plant out in July
for the Michaelmas and winter-
crops in October, November, and
December. — See the work of the
spring, summer, and autumn
months.

§ Celery ; a desirable salutiferous
plant, of the annual-biennial kind,
essentially requisite to cultivate in
some tolerable plentiful supplies, in
two, three, or more different crops,
successionally ; for use in autumn,
winter, and spring, or from July
or August, till May or. June fol-
lowing, being excellent and whole-
some for salads, soups, stewing,

&c, when properly blanched by
planting in trenches, one row in
each, and earthing up in its advan-
cing growth, consisting of the fol-
lowing varieties:

Common upright Italian, for main
crops,

Solid-stalked upright,

Large upright,

Turnip-rooted spreading, or celeriac,
the bottom swelling like a turnip,
the principal useful part.

All raised every year from seed, in
two or three different sowings,
March, April, and May, to have
proper succession ; and transplanted
into foot-wide trenches in summer
and autumn, one row in each, four
or five inches apart, and the
trenches a yard asunder; and in
advanced growth earthed up by
degrees ten or twelve, to fifteen or
eighteen inches or more, to blanch
or whiten that length.

^Chamomile; a small perennial herb
of the aromatic tribe ; for its flowers
to use occasionally in a simple
medical way, in a family, such as
for chamomile tea.

Common single flowered.

Double flowered.

There is, I believe, no very material
difference in the essential virtue of
the single and double flowers,
though some prefer the single ; but
the double is most commonly culti-
vated. Both sorts are propagated
by parting the roots, spring or
autumn, and planted in beds, 8tc.
a foot asunder.

* Chervil; a small annual herb of
aromatic property somewhat similar
in growth to parsley ; its leaves for
soups, salads, &c., sowed in spring
and summer ; and in autumn both
for use in that season, and to stand
the winter ; mostly in drills, all to
remain.

J Cives, or Chives ; a small useful
perennial herb of the onion-tribe,
growing in close, tufty bunches;
estimable for its leaves and small

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

603

offset bulbous roots and top to-
gether, like young onions cibols,
in spring, &c, to use in salads, or
alone, and for culinary occasions,
raised by parting the roots, spring
or autumn, detaching several small
roots together in each slip, and
planted six to twelve inches asun-
der.

•j- Clary ; a biennial aromatic herb,
with largish spreading leaves;
sometimes used in culinary arid
other domestic occasions ; raised by
seed in the spring, and transplanted
in summer, six inches to a foot
apart.

f Coleworts ; open greens of the
cabbage tribe, consisting both of the
common open colewovt kinds, such
as never heart or cabbage ; and of
the cabbage colewort, in young open
plants raised from the seeds of any
of the common close heading cab-
bages, greatly superior to the
others ; the sorts are,

Common open green colewort, not
now much estimable for garden
culture,

Borecole open colewort,

Cabbage colewort ; superior to all for
general culture in the colewort
order, in young open green plants,
or of small close-hearting growth ;
boils most tender and sweet ; and
preferable to cultivate both in family
gardens and market-grounds.

As therefore, the cabbage coleworts
are the most tender and sweet eat-
ing, should generally be adopted;
being such as raised from the seeds
of any of the quick-hearting close-
growing summer cabbages, such as
the sugar loaf, Yorkshire, Batter-
sea, Russia, Antwerp, &c. sowed
for coleworts, in June, July, and
beginning of August, for autumn,
winter, and spring supply: or may
also sow in spring and summer,
occasionally, to continue a succes-
sion of green small-hearting young
plants, or in small light cabbage
growth. (See Cabbag° !n this list).

All to be transplanted in rows ten
or twelve to fifteen inches asunder.

* Coriander; an aromatic annual
herb, in growth like parsley; its
leaves used in soups, salads, &c.
and its seed in other domestic oc-
casions ; raised by sowing in spring,
summer, and autumn; to have a
continuing succession ; the plants
remain where sowed.

* Corn Salad, or lamb's-lettuce;
a small annual plant of three or
four inches' growth, used as a sub-
stitute for common lettuce in win-
ter and spring salads; sowed in
July or August, and September,
to stand the winter, &c. and remain
where sowed.

* Cresses ; a principal small salad
herb ; an annual of short duration ;
estimable for spring and summer
salad, or is attainable at any time
or season required, by sowing once
a week, fortnight, or month, &c. ;
consisting of the following varieties,
viz.

Common plane-leaved, for general
culture,
Curled-leaved,
Broad-leaved.

By seed in several sowings for suc-
cession, spring, summer, and au-
tumn, or any season required ; once
a week, or fortnight, &c. to obtain
it in young growth; generally in
small drills, two or three inches
asunder, or in broad-cast all sowed
very thick, and but lightly covered
in with the earth. — See small salad
in this list.

* Cucumber ; a most tender annual
plant of long trailing growth, noted
for its abundant production of fruit
in long continuance in spring,
summer, and autumn, obtained by
aid of hot-beds in its early spring
and summer culture till June ; will
then stand the full air, and may
also then be sowed or planted in
the natural ground to produce fruit
in August and September: several
varieties, viz.

604

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

Early short prickly,

Early long prickly,

Most' long green prickly,

White prickly,

Long green Turkey,

Long white Turkey. ,

The cucumber being one of the most
tender exotics of the kitchen gar-
den, is sowed and raised in hot-
beds from January, or February,
till June, to obtain early fruit in
March, April, and May, &c. ; and
although the plants will grow in the
full air by the middle of June, it is
proper to continue the occasional
protection of frames and glasses in
some principal beds, to extend the
successional production of fruit
throughout the summer; and by
sowing in the natural ground, the
latter end of May or beginning of
June, produces full crops in August
and till the middle of September:
when, generally, the cold damp
nights, and strong autumnal dews
and rains, terminate the good pro-
duction of all cucumbers exposed
to the full air; or by continuing
some of the bed crops, protected
under frames and glasses from
inclement weather at that time,
adding a small lining of warm litter
round the outside of the bed, to give
a little bottom heat, they will con-
tinue in moderate production till
the end of October, &c.

D

* DILL ; an aromatic annual herb,
similar to fennel, a species of the
same genus ; its leaves and seed-
umbels, in summer used in pick-
ling cucumbers, &c. and on other
occasions, raised every year from
seed, sowed in the spring, or,
occasionally, in autumn, in drills,
to remain.

E

§ ENDIVE ; estimable for its stocky

head of blanched leaves for autumn
and winter salads, &c. , three varie-
ties, viz.

Green curled, preferable for the

main crops,
White curled,

Batavian broad-leaved, good for
autumn, and early part of winter,
for stewing, soups, salads, &c, but
will not stand the winter effectually.

All raised by two or three different
sowings from May, or beginning of
June, to the end of July, or begin-
ning of August, to have succession
all autumn and winter; but if
sown earlier than May or June,
they go to seed the same summer,
before having mature growth ; that
if any are occasionally wanted in
early growth, in summer, may sow
some white-curled in March,
April, &c, but they will soon run.
All the sorts transplanted a foot to
fifteen inches asunder.

F

% FENNEL ; for its aromatic leaves
in various culinary occasions.

By seed, and slipping the roots,
spring or autumn.

* Finochio, or French fennel; for
soups, salads, &c, when the bot-
tom part is blanched, by earthing
up.

By seed in different sowings, and
transplanting, in spring and sum-
mer, in drills, two feet asunder.

G

|| GARLICK, for its bulbous root,
useful in various domestic occa-
sions.

Raised by parting and planting the
cloves of the root in spring, in rows
six to nine inches asunder, and
two deep, attain perfection in July
and August ; then to be taken up
and housed for keeping.

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

605

* Gourds, &c; tenderish annual
plants, of long, strong, trailing
growth, producing fruit in great
variety in shape, size, colour, &c. ;
sometimes used in culinary pur-
poses both in young green growth,
and when at full maturity; consist-
ing of

Orange-gourd,

Pear-shaped, green and striped,

Round, yellow, or lemon coloured,

Round stone-coloured,

Rock or carbuncled ; — and of various
other shapes, sizes, and colours,
small, middling, and large.

Pompion, or Pumkin; most large,
round, oblong, &c.

By seed, in a hot-bed in April, for
transplanting, into the natural
ground, in May; or also, sowed at
once in the full ground in May
aforesaid, when warm settled
weather, planting or sowing the
smaller sorts against some fence or
railing, &c, upon which to train
the plants and the larger kinds;
sow or plant in any open, sunny,
space, to run upon the ground, will
all produce fruit in July, August,
&c.

H

% HYSSOP; a hardy perennial
aromatic plant, of low, under-
shrubby growth; its young leafy
shoots and flower spikes used occa-
sionally, in culinary and other
household purposes, in a family; is
raised, from seed, in the spring,
and by slips and cuttings of the
young shoots, April, May, and
June ; also, by bottom offsets plant-
ed six to twelve inches apart, or on
an edging.

K

• KIDNEY-BEAN, or French-
bean; a useful summer esculent,

in its young seed-pods, many varie-
ties, viz.

Dwarf kinds.

Early white dwarf,

Early liver-coloured dwarf,

Early dun-coloured dwarf,

Early red-speckled dwarf,

Black-speckled dwarf,

Streaked dwarf,

Battersea white dwarf,

Canterbury dwarf,

Tawny dwarf,

Negro or black dwarf,

Yellow dwarf,

Large white dwarf.

Note, — the colours in the above de-
note that of the seed-beans of the
respective sorts.

Runners, or climbing kinds.

Scarlet runner; a great bearer, in
long continuance; preferable for
the main crop, of runners.

White runner ; similar to the scarlet
in growth and bearing, only the
blossom is white, but the pods are
alike, though the ripe beans are
also white, like the blossom,
Long-podded white Dutch runners,
producing very long smooth pods,
Canterbury and Battersea, small
white manners.

They are sowed annually in differ-
ent crops; the dwarf sorts in April
and May, for the early and first
main crops, and in June and July,
and beginning of August for suc-
cession bearing from June till Oc-
tober; and the scarlet and other
runners, sowed in the latter end of
April, or in May and June, and
■will continue in production from
July and August till October;
especially the scarlet and white
runners.

All sowed or planted in drills, two
to three feet and a half asunder,
and about an inch and a half deep:
or the runners, &c, planted in a
single row, against a wall or paling,
&c

606

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

L

LAVENDER; common spike, or
spike-flowering blue.

Jt is propagated by slips of the out-
ward young side shoots in April,
May, or June, &c. , which slip or
cut offabout six or eight inches long ;
pull away the lower leaves and plant
them in a shady border, inserted
two-thirds into the ground, six or
eight inches asunder, and watered ;
and in advanced growth transplant-
ed double or treble that distance
in autumn or spring.

■(• Leek ; a most useful culinary plan*
of biennial growth, for autumn,
winter, and spring.

Large London,

Flanders.

Sowed in March, and April, for the
main crops, both to remain and
transplant.

* Lettuce / a principal annual salad
plant, and, for some culinary occa-
sions, in use most times of the year
by different sowings; but in greatest
perfection in summer, May, June,
August, &c, but in smaller growth
in autumn, winter, and spring.

Green Cos,

White Cos,

Spotted Cos,

Egyptian Cos,

Black seed green Cos,

Brown Cilicia,

Green Cilicia,

White cabbage-lettuce,

Brown Dutch cabbage,

Large Roman,

Imperial cabbage lettuce, large and
fine,

Grand admiral, or admirable ; a very
large cabbage lettuce,
Hardy green cabbaging,
Tennis ball,
Prussian.

Lettuces are obtained at almost all
seasons, but in greatest perfection
of fall growth in June, July, Au-
gust, and September, till October.

They are sowed at different seasons.

February or Marcn, and April, or
the main summer crops; and in
May, June, July, &c, for succes-
sion ; and in August and September
to stand the winter in young growth,
some for use in that season, and the
others to remain for early spring
and summer lettuces.

* Love Apple, or Tomatoes ; for the
fruit to use in soups, and to pickle,
&c.

Red fruited,

Yellow fruited.

Are tender annual plants of large
spreading growth, sowed in hot-
beds in April, for transplanting in
May, in the full ground in a sunny
situation, or planted and trained
against a south wall : and will pro-
duce ripe fruit in autumn, large
orbicular-round, and mostly ribbed.

M

% MARJORAM; aromatic pot-
herbs.

* Sweet or summer marjoram,
J Winter and pot marjoram,

Are raised from seed sowed in
April, &c, and the winter and pot
majoram also by parting the roots,
planted six, or ten, or twelve inches
asunder.

* Marigold ; the flowers to put in
broth, and for medical purposes.

Orange coloured,
Lemon coloured,
Double flowered.

The orange coloured, either single
or double, is preferable for use,
sowed in spring, summer, or au-
tumn, to remain or transplant a foot
asunder.

* Melon; for its large fine fruit ol
great estimation,

Romana, smallish round,
Cantaleupe large round,
Black rock Cantaleupe,
Orange Cantaleupe,
Scarlet Cantaleupe,
White Cantaleupe,

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

607

Polignac,

Oblong ribbed, netted,
Smooth green-rinded,
Green-fleshed,

Water melon, very large round
green-rinded.

Of the above, the Cantaleupe kinds
are in great estimation for their
large handsome round size, curious
carbuncled rock-like exterior, and
rich flavour; though the old Ro-
mana is a good flavoured smaller
melon, as also the Polignac: and
the others all ripen in very good
perfection of agreeable flavour.

The plants are most tender exotics,
always raised in hot-beds under
protection of frames, lights, hand
glasses, &c, sowed in January or
February for earliest, and in March
and April for general and succes-
sional late crops; the fruit ripen-
ing in the earlier plants in May,
June, and July, and in the others
in July, August, and September.
See the general directions.
%Mint ; useful, aromatic, perennial
herbs, for culinary and distilling
occasions.
Common green, or spearmint pro-
per for various kitchen uses, salads,
&c.

Black or peppermint, for distilling
only.

They are raised by parting the
roots, autumn or spring ; by offsets
young plants, March and April;
and by cutting off the stalks in
summer.

J Mushroom; a well known culi-
nary plant, of the fungous tribe,
viz.,

Red-gilled, or common wholesome
mushroom.

There being only one real good
salutiferous species, distinguished
by its reddish lamela or gills
underneath, they being always of a
fleshy colour, or sometimes, when
grown large, are of a blackish red
hue externally, but internally red-
dish ; and by which the true

mushroom may be universally
known from all the other numerous
fungi, which are mostly of apoison-
ous or doubtful quality,
t is propagated and raised to ma-
turity by its spawny progeny, of a
whitish fibrousy nature, running
in lumps of rotten dung, and in
earth; and which spawny lumps
being planted in a sort of ridge-
form hot-bed, at any season, covered
thickly with clean straw, it soon
strikes, multiplies exceedingly over
the whole bed, and produces plenty
of mushrooms in five or six weeks,
continuing in production some-
times several months. — See Sep-
tember.

Mustard j cultivated in gardens,
principally as a small salad herb;
and in large quantities in fields,
&c, for its seed to manufacture.

Common white,

Brown,

Of the two sorts, the white is most
adapted for small salading; and
for which may be sowed at any
season; but for the seed to manu-
facture, &c, should sow in the
spring in drills or broadcast,
and the seed will be ripe in July.

N

* NASTURTIUM, or India-cress ;
its young leaves and flowers in
salads; and its green berries to
pickle.

Major, or large running; the best
for principal culture.
Minor, or dwarf.

Both sorts sowed in spring or early
in summer, in drills to remain.

0

•j- ONION ; one of our most useful
family vegetables, obtained at all
seasons; in young growth in
spring and summer, and in its full

603

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

bulbous growth in autumn, both
for present use and long keeping
in winter, &c, till next year.
Strasburgh or common round,
Portugal, large roundish oval,
Spanish white, large round orbi-
cular,

James's long keeping, roundish
oval,

Deptford, large round,

Heading, or white Portugal.

Either of the above may be culti-
vated for a full crop of bulbers-
sowed the latter end of February
or any time in March; but not
later than beginning of April,
otherwise will not bulb in lar°e
growth. °

Red Spanish,

Silver-skinned good to pickle.

Both these are also bulbers, but
not so eligible for a main crop as
the foregoing.

Welch Onion, or Ciboul.

This sort never bulbs: but being
most hardy to stand the winter, is
sowed in August, &c., to stand
over that season for young spring
onions.

Tree Onions ; runs up with a tall
stem, requiring support; produc-
ing clusters of small onions at top,
most excellent to pickle, &c.

It is raised either by small offset
bulbs of the root, or those produced
on the stalk, as above ; planted in
spring or autumn, is very hardy.

Orach White, or mountain spinach,
a culinary herb, sometimes culti-
vated for its large roundish angular

leaves, to use as spinach, &c.

By seed in the spring, summer,
and autumn, generally to remain,
and the plants thinned.

P

f PARSLEY; a very salutary
potherb, continuing for use all
the year.

Common plane-leaved,.

Curled-leaved, thick and bushy,
Hamburgh, or large-rooted, lor its

root to boil.
Of the above, the first two are
cultivated as potherbs lor their
leaves; the curled-leaved is pre-
ferably esteemed though they are
both equally good lor use ; and the
Hamburgh sort is raised principally
for its large long white root to boil
and eat, both as lood, and occa-
sionally in a medical way, good for
the gravel.
They are all raised from seed in
any oi the spring mouths; sowing
each sort separate generally in
drills, and to remain where sowed ;
the first two will come in for use
in their leaves early in summer,
and the large-rooted thinned to six
inches, attains perfection in au-
tumn, in its full grown root con-
tinuing good all winter, and follow-
ing spring,
f Parsnep ; a very wholesome and
profitable esculent root for winter
and spring; only one species, viz.,
Common swelling parsnep.
Should be sowed in February or
March, ■ or - early in April ; broad-
cast, or in drills a foot asunder;
and the plants thinned to ten or
twelve inches distance, that the
root may have room to obtain g
large swelling growth; in full per-
fection in October and November,
&c, continuing good all winter
and spring till April or May.
Pease ; good and profitable escu-
lents, to cultivate in several full
crops, for their plentiful production,
three or foul- months in summer.
Early Charlton,
Early golden Charlton,
Early Nichol's golden,
Reading hotspur, long pods,
Master's hotspur, long pods,
Dwarf marrowfat, large long pods,
Tall marrowfat, most large,
Spanish moratto, largish,
Prussian prolific, great bearer, mid-
dling pods,

LIST 01' KITCHEN GAHUEN PLANTS.

6oy

White rouncival, large,
Grey rouncival, large,
Sugar pea, tall, with large crooked
pods,
Dwarf sugar,
Egg pea,
Blue union,
Pearl,

Crown or rose pea, of tall strong

growth, producing its blossom, &c.,

in a tufty bunch at top,
Leadman's dwarf, a great bearer,

but very small pods, good for a latter

crop, or as required,
Spanish dwarf,

Early dwarf frame pea, for forcing.

Of the above, the first three sorts are
proper for the early crops ; and of
which the second and third are the
earliest ; but they may all lie sowed
both for early, and the first and
second general main crops ; or the
fourth and fifth sorts are also very
proper for principal main crops, or
in succession ; and the marrowfats
should always be admitted in good
full crops in succession to the
former smaller pease ; the Spanish
moratto, Prussian, and rouncivals,
are also very fine for secondary main
crops, or as thought eligible for
variety and of the other sorts may
also be introduced occasionally.

In the culture of pease, the princi-
pal sorts are sowed in several
different crops from November,
December, or January, &c, till
June, July, or beginning of Au-
gust, to have regular succession
the whole season, beginning first
with any of the early sorts in one,
two, or more crops, at about a
month's interval ; then either con-
tinue these in longer,succession, or
some of the other sorts in the same
order; not omitting two or three
principal crops of marrowfats,
beginning in January, February,
or March ; and any of the others
in secondary crops, for variety as
may be required: they must always
be sowed in drills, two feet and a
2

half, to three feet or three and a
half asunder, in the smaller and
larger sorts. — See the work of the
different months, as above.
Pennyroyal ; a small creeping
high-scented aromatic herb; its
leafy young shoots in various
cookery uses; and when in full
summer's growth, to distil for
pennyroyal water : raised plenti-
fully by slips, offsets, or parting
the roots, spring or summer, &c,
planted six inches asunder, to re-
maiu watered.
Pompion, or Pumpkin. See Gourd.
* Potatoe ; a superiorly profitable
esculent root, for general culture
in principal full crops; attainable
for use almost the year round ; being
planted in the spring, and comes
in for use in young and middling
growth the same year in summer,
and in large full growth for general
use in autumn and all winter till
spring and summer following; and
which is a most valuable useful
family esculent, that may be cooked
in various different ways ; and
when thoroughly well boiled, baked,
or roasted, &c, is good and whole-
some ; is a species of Solanum or
nightshade, called by the botanists
Solanum tuberosum, or tuberous-
rooted night shade ; commonly
called potatoe, of the following
varieties :
Early dwarf,
Early champion,
Large round white,
Large oblong whitish red, or red
nosed kidney,
Common kidney,
Small white kidney,
Round red,

Large round dark red, most ex-
cellent, but now almost lost to
general culture.

All the sorts are propagated or
raised by cuttings of the root, that
is of the potatoe itself; choosing
the finest of the respective kinds
of middling size; cut them into

: 2

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

several pieces or sets, each having
one or two eyes, and to be planted
in the spring, generally in March
and April, when settled mild
weather; planting them by dibble
or in drills or trenches, &c, in
rows two feet asunder, by eight or
ten inches distant in the row, and
three or four inches deep: they
will come up in May, and increase
by the root, for some early kinds
to take up, in small size, in June,
or July, &c ; but let the main
crops continue in full growth till
October or beginning of November,
then forked up and housed for use
in winter and following spring, &c,
or till the production of new young
potatoes the ensuing summer.
Potatoes are also occasionally raised
from seed of the small fruit pro-
duced on the stalks ripe in autumn,
by which to gain new varieties.
Sowed in the spring.

* Purslane ; small succulent herbs
for salads, and some culinary uses.

Green,
Golden.

They are sowed on a hot-bed, or
under glasses in the spring ; but in
warm settled weather may be
sowed in the open borders ; two or
three sowings to have regular suc-
cession, to remain where sowed.

R

* RADISH, a desirable esculent
root for eating raw in spring, sum-
mer, and autumn ; and some sorts
also in winter.

Early short-topped purple,
Common red,

Early short-topped, salmon-coloured,

Common salmon,

Turnip-rooted small white,

Short-topped, white turnip-rooted,

Turnip-rooted, small red,

Large black turnip-rooted, or Spa-
nish, for autumn and winter.

Of the above different sorts of
radishes, the common iong or

spindle-rooted are most eligible for
the general principal crops, raised
by several different sowings at three
or four weeks' interval from Janu-
ary or February, &c, till May or
June, to obtain a constant succes-
sion all spring and summer, or
may continue moderate sowings in
July or August and September, to
have young autumn and winter
radishes till November, &c. ; and
of the turnip-rooted, the first two
sorts may be sowed in the same
seasons, as secondaries in smaller
crops, or as may be required, as
they are of neat growth and most
delicate eating, especially the white
kind ; and the large black Spanish
turnip-rooted is sowed principally
in June or July, and beginning of
August, to come in of proper
growth for autumn and winter eat-
ing, being hardy to stand the wea-
ther; is sliced in salads, or eat
alone occasionally with salt, vine-
gar, &c.

In sowing the common or long-
rooted kinds generally allot the short
tops for the early and first and
second principal crops ; the others
in succession ; and generally prefer
some principal sowings of the
salmon radish for succession and
latter crops in spring and summer,
&c, all sowed broadcast, and the
young plants thinned two or three,
to six inches.

Radish is also adopted to sow as a
principal small salad herb to cut
young in the seed leaves as cresses
and mustard, &c. — See Small
Salading.

§ Rape, or Cole ; principally sowed
as a small salad herb, in garden
culture, and in fields to attain full
growth for cattle, and to produce
seed for rape oil, birds, &c.

It is sowed for small salading in
spring, summer, or any season ;
and to attain full growth if sowed
in the spring and summer broad-
cast or in drills ; either to remain

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

611

where sowed and thinned, or trans-
planted.

% Rosemary ; a shrubby evergreen,
of the aromatic kind; sometimes
cultivated in a few plats for its
young leafy and flowery shoots to
use in a family on some medical
occasions, and at funerals, &c, to
prevent infectious disorders.

Common green, the principal sort.

Stripe-leaved.

It is raised by slips or cuttings of
the young shoots in spring and
summer ; planted in a shady border
and watered, and when of advanced
growth, transplanted as required.

X Rue ; a shrubby bushy evergreen
aromatic ; a plant or two, or as re-
quired, for its leaves in domestic
medical occasions and to give to
poultry when disordered.

Raised either by seed or by slips or
cuttings as intimated above for the
rosemary.

S.

J SAGE ; an useful aromatic of un-
der shrubby growth for its leaves
in different kitchen uses, and for
sage tea, &c.

Common red for principal kitchen
uses,

Green, good also for some occasions,

Small-leaved green, sage of virtue,
or tea sage, &c.

Broad-leaved balsamic ; estimable
for similar purposes.

They are all hardy evergreen plants,
for use all the year, raised by slips
of the young shoots in April and
May ; but most successfully in May
and June, of the young side shoots
of the year, slipped or cut off about
five or six inches long, divesting
them of the under leaves, plant
them in a shady border six inches
asunder; or if to remain in the
same place to full growth, set them
twelve inches distance, inserting
them quite down to the top leaves ;

and water them directly.— See
May and June.
Salad Herbs j various sorts are oc-
casionally used; but the principal
sorts are lettuce, endive, celery,
and small herbs, such as cresses,
mustard, radish, &c, though
several others are occasionally used
as secondaries in composition with
the above, such as corn salad, mint,
tarragon, chervil, coriander, purs-
lane, burnet sorrel, borage, nastur-
tium, young onions, and radishes,
and sliced red-beet root ; also red-
cabbage raw, shred small, but
mostly used alone ; likewise water-
cress, both in commixture and
simply ; but as the above secondary
salad herbs, &c, are rarely or
never all used at one time in a
salad, have only mentioned them
as what are occasionally required
in different families, more^ or less
of some particular sorts, according
to the peculiar relish of different
palates ; and as they are also useful
on other occasions, should have cul-
ture in all principal kitchen gar-
dens.— See intimations of the dif
ferent sorts in this general list; and
the works of the different months
for their general culture, &c.
f Salsafy; for its long carrot-shap-
ed white root, to boil; also the
young spring shoots of year-old
plants, to dress like asparagus.
Sow the seed in March or April
and May, for first and succes-
sional crops; either sowed broad-
cast or in drills, and the plants
thinned six inches asunder; the
roots will be ready for drawing in
July or August, September, &c,
and remain good till the following
spring.

|| Savory j a noted aromatic potherb.
Summer savory, or also to dry for
winter.

Winter savory, for use green all the
year, — or to cut and dry for win-
ter keeping.

They are raised by sowing their

612

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

seed in spring, and transplanted in
summer: and the winter Savory
*lso by bottom offsets and slips of
the young shoots in spring and sum-
mer.

f Savoy, or Savoy cabbage ; a most
excellent plant for autumn and
winter, cabbaging with a large full,
firm head,
Green curled savoy
Yellow curled,
Round-headed of each,
Sugar-loaf headed ditto.
They are sowed in March, April,
and May, and planted out in June,
July, and August, in rows two feet
' and a half asunder, and will be
fully headed in September, October,
and November, continuing good
till spring; then go to seed.
§ Scorzonera ; for its long largish
root, to boil.
Is raised by sowing the seed in
April and May, to have proper
succession, as the early sowed
sometimes run to seed the same
year; may be sowed either broad-
cast, or in drills a foot asunder, and
the plants thinned accordingly ; the
roots will be in full growth, for
autumn and winter.
|| Shallot; a small bulbous-rooted
plant of the onion tribe ; the root,
the usual part, is of much estima-
• tion, both in culinary purposes, and
to use raw at table, cut small and
used as sauce to roast, broiled or
fryed fresh meat.
It is propagated and raised by divid-
ing the large roots into separate off-
sets, and planted in spring, or in
October or November, six or eight
inches asunder, and two deep ; and
the root attains full growth in July
or August, when being taken up,
dried, and housed, keeps good till
next year,
t Skirret ; for its small longish di-
vided root, in summer, autumn,
and winter,. &c, to boil.
May be raised both by seed sowed
in the spring in drills, and the plants

thinned to six inches ; and by side
offsets of the old roots in spring
and autumn.
|| Small salading; consists princi-
pally of the small seedling herbs, as
cresses, mustard, radish, and rape,
to use when cpjite young in the
seed leaves, of but a few days or a
week or two old, generally in co-
mixture with lettuce, endive, cele-
ry, &c, and occasionally alone in
the spring season, when the other
salad plants are deficient; likewise
sometimes white cabbage lettuces
are sowed to cut young as above
for small salad, early in the spring.
—See each sort in this list, and
their general culture in the several
months.

t Sorrel; a noted potherb of peren-
nial growth: its leaves for use at
all seasons, in soups, sauce, salads,
&c., consisting of the following
varieties : —
Common long arrow-pointed leaved,
Round leaved French.
They are raised by seed in the
spring, and transplanted ; and plen-
tifully by parting the onsets of the
roots in spring or autumn, planted
a foot asunder.
Soup Herbs, consist of leeks, celery,
endive, white and green beet, spi-
nach, lettuce, turnips, parsley,
mint, tarragon, sorrel, burnet, bo-
. rage, savory, marjoram, thyme,
coriander, basil, purslane, chervil,
fennel, dill, pennyroyal, clary,
&c, though these are seldom want-
ed all at one time ; yet as they may
all be required on different occa
sions, they are proper for culture
in every principal garden.— See
the different sorts in this general
list, and their culture in the diner
ent months.
Spinach; an estimable culinary
plant, obtained for use at most
seasons of the year: the sorts are,
Triangular-leaved, or prickly-seed-
ed, to sow in autumn for winter
and spring supply,

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

613

Round-leaved, or smooth-seeded,
to sow in spring, &c, for summer
use.

Mountain spinach, different from
the above, but very good for simi-
lar uses ; having large thick leaves. .
—See Orach.

Of the above kinds, the triangular-
leaved is sowed the beginning or
middle of August, to stand for win-
ter use and following spring till
May, as being the hardiest to bear
the inclemency of the winter wea-
ther; and the round-leaved, of a
more thick succulent nature, most
liable to injuiy from severe cold
and wet, is sowed in spring, Fe-
bruary, March, and April, for
summer use, to cut in May and
June, &c., and may also be sowed
in the two latter named months
and July, to continue the succes-
sion during the summer and autumn
seasons till September; for as the
spring and summer sowings, after
attaining full growth, soon run up
for seed the same summer, that a
repetition of different sowings is
necessaiy, but the winter crops
sowed in August stand till next
April or May before they run.
They are sowed, the main crops
mostly broad-cast and raked in and
the plants thinned to three, four,
or five inches distance ; or, if left
closer, may be thinned out by de-
grees for use, — especially the win-
ter standing crops in spring; or
some spring and summer crops
may be occasionally sowed in drills
a foot asunder.
The Mountain spinach may be sow-
ed as above or more generally in
spring and summer.

T

% TANSY ; a strong-flavoured aro-
matic herb for different kitchen
uses ; propagated by slips or offsets
of the root in spring or autumn,

and planted a foot or eighteen
inches asunder.

% Tarragon ; fine-flavoured aroma-
tic plant, to improve the flavour of
soups and salads, raised by cuttings
of the stalks in May and June in a
shady border, and by bottom off-
sets in spring.

% Thyme; a well-known sweet-
scented aromatic for various kitch-
en uses, of small under-slirubby
growth, green for use all the year.

Common green,

Lemon-scented yellow.

But the first is that for general use,
and is raised by seed sowed in
April, either in broad-cast or in
drills for transplanting in summer,
or in drills to remain — and both
sorts also by parting the roots and
by top slips in the spring, planted
six inches to a foot asunder, or some
in close edging.

§ Turnip ; a valuable salutiferous
root, very profitable for general cul-
ture in full crops, for summer,

. autumn, and winter ; and its young
short tops in spring are tender and
sweet boiling greens.

Early Butch white, of moderate or
middling size, proper for the early
or general crops in gardens.

Round white, very good for general
or main crops,

Stone turnip,

Large round white Norfolk, proper
for large crops,

Large round, green-topped ditto,

Large round, red-topped ditto,

Tankard, large oblong, very good,

French small-round,

Erench long-rooted,

Black Russia, very hardy for winter,

Swedish, also very hardy,

Yellow oblong, very good,

Small red round, more for variety
than for any principal crop.

They are raised by sowing in spring,
summer, and early part of autumn,
but for general culture allot the first
three, four, or five principal sorts;
generally the Dutch kind for an

614

LIST OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS.

early and first main crop ; sowed
in March and April, for drawing
young in May, and of larger growth
in June; therefore, as the early
spring sowed soon run to stalk for
seed the same year, larger supplies
for succession standing crops should
be sowed the latter end of April,
or more fully in May, and begin-
ning of June, for the general sum-
mer supply and part of autumn ; and
for the main autumnal and general
winter standing crops, both in
gardens and fields, should sow
more largely towards the latter end
of June, and in July to come in for
use in full growth in September,
October, and November, &c, and
continue till following spring ; then
will all shoot for seed: or may
also sow smaller portions in the
early part or first fortnight of Au-
gust, to stand for spring, longer in
that season before they ran.
All the sorts of turnips are generally
sowed broad-cast, moderately thin,
and raked in with careful regular-

ity; or for large crops in extensive
grounds and in fields, are light
harrowed in and rolled ; and as
they all remain where sowed, the
plants when in leaf, an inch or
little more broad, must be thinned
or hoed six or eight to ten or
twelve inches distance, or more, in
the smaller middling, and larger
sorts, that the root may have pro-
per scope to swell in full, growth.

w

J WATER-CRESS; a very whole-
some salad herb ; but is rarely
cultivated as the plants grow natur-
ally in great abundance in most shal-
low waters near running streams,
&c. However some large plants
drawn out in autumn or spring,
with full roots, ana cast into any
shallow waters, situated as above,
they will strike, grow, and dis-
seminate their seed, and multiply
in plenty of young plants.

It will be observed in the foregoing List, that the annuals, biennials,
and perennial kinds, are separately distinguishable at sight by the marks
annexed to their names.

The annuals being but of one season's duration, are raised every spring
and summer from seed, attain mature perfection, ripen seed if permitted,
and wholly decay the same year in autumn, as in lettuce, spinach, radish,
beans, pease, kidney-bean, cucumber, melon, cauliflower, small salading,
&c. Some sorts, when not sowed till autumn, August, and September,
stand over the winter till next spring and summer, as in spinach, lettuce,
cauliflower, &c.

The biennial kinds, or two year plants, being raised from seed one year,
continue till the second, then decay; and therefore must be raised every
year from seed, sowed in the spring and summer, and the plants attain full
growth the same year and mostly continue good for use till the next spring,
then go to seed and wholly perish, as in cabbages, savoys, broccoli, cole-
worts, carrots, parsneps, turnips, beets, onions, leeks, celery, endive, pars-
ley, &c. ; and some when not sowed till autumn continue in advancing
young growth all that season, and winter, till spring and summer following,
then attain proper maturity for use, earlier or later in those seasons, in the
different sorts such as cabbages, cauliflowers, coleworts, onions, young
spring carrots, spinach, &c, and of which the cabbages in particular, attain-
ing full cabbaged growth in summer, remain good till the spring following
before they go to seed and decay ; others being of an annual-biennial
nature (§), that if sowed early in spring, &c, grow to maturity, more or

LIST OP AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. 615

less, in different sorts, the same year in summer or autumn; and some
soon after either go for seed, or become past good perfection for use, as in
cauliflower, broccoli, turnips, celery, endive, spinach, &c. ; but sowed
later in the season, such as celery and broccoli in March, April, and May,
and beginning of June, and endive in June or any time till the end of July,
and turnips in May, June, and July, they all continue for use till the follow-
ing winter and spring, then run and decay ; and the cauliflowers sowed in
August stand till next summer, then acquire full growth in their flower
heads, produce seed, and wholly perish.

And the perennials being such, as when once raised at any season,
either by seed, suckers, offsets, &c, they continue several or some many
years by the root, as before intimated, for spring and summer production,
as in asparagus, artichokes, fennel, mint, balm, &c.

Likewise some are annual-perennial, that although they continue peren-
nial by root offsets, yet require to be new planted every year, such as
potatoes, Jerusalem artichoke, garlic, shallots, mushrooms, &c, as for-
merly intimated.

LIST OF AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS.

As in the foregoing List, and in the works of the Kitchen Garden, the
appellation aromatic often occurs, under the names of particular plants
of that quality, they are such as impart a strong grateful odour and
savoury taste, as in sage, mint, fennel, marjoram, savory, thyme,
pennyroyal, dill, basil, &c, and ate many of them used as small pot-
herbs, and in sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking ; some also in
salads, and for distilling, and some in a simple medical way in a family;
and as only small portions are wanted in private use, need only cultivate
a small quantity of each accordingly ; generally together in a distinct
compartment allotted for an herbary ; particularly the following principal
sorts:

Thyme,

Coriander,

Borage,

Marjoram,

Savory,

Balm,

Mint,

Hyssop,

Lavender,
Angelica,

Sage,

Pennyroyal,

Fennel,

Dill,

Clary,.
Chamomile,

Peppermint,

Chervil,

Tansy,

Parsley,

Or also some plants of

Tarragon,

Sorrel,
Burnet,

rue and rosemary. —

Pot-marigold,

See the General List.

Basil,

. For some descriptive intimation of their respective growths, properties,
uses, and culture, see the foregoing General List, and the works of the
spring, summer, and autumn months

A

LIST OF SHRUBS AND TREES,

Cultivated in most of the common Nurseries, in England ; for the fur-
nishing Noblemen and Gentlemen's Gardens and Plantations.

First, of the deciduous kinds, which are those that shed their Leaves in Winter.
TALLER GROWING DECIDUOUS SHRUBS AND TREES.

ACACIA.

The triple thorned.
Ashy common,

Flowering,

Manna,

White American,
Swamp.

Cratcsgus, mountain ash.
Maples, early budded,

Ash-leaved,

Scarlet flowering,

Norway,

Sir Charles Wager's,
American mountain,
Montpelier,

With some other varieties.
Hornbeam, common,

Virginia hop,

American Flowering,

Eastern.
Medlar, Great Dutch,

Nottingham or English,

New England.
Chestnuts, Spanish sweet,

Stripe-leaved Spanish,
Chestnut, the horse common,

Scarlet flowering,

Yellow.

Walnuts, common,
Virginia black.
French,

Large-furrowed.
Hicory, sweet, ,

Large.
Birch, common,

Canada,

Sugar.
Beech, common,

American.
Sycamore, plain-leaved,

Stripe-leaved.
Plane, oriental.

Occidental, of Virginia,
■ Spanish or middle.
Larch, common,

American black,

Siberian.
Laburnum, common,

Scotch,

Stripe-leaved.
Liquid Amber, sweet gum.
Lac or varnish tree.
Lime, common,

Red-twigged,

Pennsylvanian.
Cypress, deciduous American.
Catalpa.
Poplars, black,

White,

Carolina poplar,

Aspen- tree,

Abele-tree.

Lombardy Poplar.
Arbor Juda European,

American.
Aider, common,

Parsley-leaved,

Dwarf mountain,

Gold-striped,

Silver-striped,

LIST OF PLANTS.

617

American late flowering.
Elm, English small-leaved,
Dutch,

French, Wych,
Blotch-leaved.

Kctmamelis, American witch hazel.
Persamon Plum, European.
Service, wild,

True oi' manured,

Arbutus-leaved, . .

American.
Oak, English,

ChestnuUleaved,

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS

AGNUS Castus, or chaste tree,

Narrow-leaved,

Broad-leaved.
Almond, common,

White flowering,

Early dwarf single flower,

Double dwarf.
Althea Frutex, striped,

Red,

White,

Blue,

Purple,

Pheasant's eye.
Andromeda, striped,

Evergreen.
Aralia, or angelica tree.
Azalea with red flowers,

White.

Barberry, common, red fruit,

StoDeless, red fruit,

White fruit.
Bladder nut, three-leaved,

Five-leaved.
Broom, the Spanish,

Double flowering,

Vellow Portugal,

White Portugal,

Luca.

ilephalanthus button wood.
Bramble, flowering,

American upright,

White fruited,

Dwarf,

Maiden.

Viburnum, or wayfaring tree,
Common,
Stripe-leaved,

Red mountain,
Willow-leaved,
Scarlet,

Carolina swamp,

Sassafras-leaved,

Champaign dwarf,

Black,

White,

Oriental, with prickly cups,
Italian, the cut-leaved.
With some other varieties,
Tacamahacca, or balsam-tree.

OF LESSER GROWTH.

American broad-leaved,

With black fruit.
Halesia.
Bupeio.

Empetrum, black-berried heath.
Lycium, box thorn.
Chionanthus, the fringe or snowdrop
tree.

Laurustinus, the deciduous,

African fly honeysuckle.
Melia, the bead tree.
Xanthoxylum, toothache tree.
Lavender, the common,

Broad-leaved, or lavender spike,

Canary.
Gate, or sweet willow.
Spircea, spireea frutex,

Common red,

Scarlet,

White.
Scorpion Sena.
Sniilax, broad-leaved,

Blotch-leaved.
Syringa, common,

Dwarf, double flowers.
Sumach, scarlet,

Large downy,

Virginia,

White,

Elm-leaved,

Myrtle-leaved,

Lentiscus-leaved,

Carolina.

Toxicodendron, poison tree,

Ash-leaved,

Oak-leaved.
Tamarisk the French,

618

LIST OF PLANTS.

German.
Sassafras.

Pistachia, Jamaica birch.

Filbert,
Hazel.

Jesuits Bark-tree.

Frangula, berry-bearing alder.

Honeysuckle, early red Italian,

Early white Dutch,

Late red,

Late Dutch,

Long blowing,

Large scarlet trumpet,

Small trumpet,

Oak-leaved,

Russian.
Jasmine, the common white,

Common yellow,

Italian, ,

With gold-striped leaves,

Silver-striped leaves.
Hydrangia, white flowers.
Hypericum Frutex, dwarf,

Broad-leaved.

Narrow-leaved.
Hypericum, or St John's wort.

Shrubby, Canary,

Dwarf, shrubby, stinking,

Broad-leaved, eastern.
Lilac, blue,

White,

Purple, or Scotch.
Lilac, Persian, with cut leaves,

Persian, plain leaved, white
flowered,

Persian, blue flowered.
Ivy silver-striped,

Gold-striped,

Deciduous, or Creeper.
Robinia, or false acacia,

The common,

Yellow-flowered,

Scarlet-flowering, or rose acacia,

Caragana.
Lonicera, upright honeysuckle,

Red berried,

Virginia!:,

Tartarian,
St Peter's wort.
Mezereon, the white,

Early red,

Late red,

Purple.

Kidney Bean Tree,
Barba Jovis, bastard indigo.
Menispermum, moon-seed.
Oleaster, wild olive.
Peach, double-flowering.
Privet, common,

Silver-striped,

Yellow blotched-leaves.
Paliurus, Christ's thorn.
Prinos, winter berry.
Periploca, Virginia silk.
Flamula Jovis, blue,

White.
Itea.

Ptelea, or American shrub trefoil,
Bhamnus, or buckthorn,

Common,

Sea Buckthorn,

Creeping evergreen,

Yellow-berried.
Raspberry, the flowering.
Candleberry Myrtle.

Broad-leaved,

Long-leaved,

Fern-leaved,

Oak-leaved.

Cherry, the double-blossomed,
Cornelian,
Dwarf Canada.

Coccygria, or Venetian sumach.
Cinque/oil Shrub.
Colutea, or bladder sena,

The common,

Oriental,

Ethiopian,

Pocock's.

Clethra, white-flowering,

Dwarf.
Cassiberry Bush.
Bignonia, trumpet flower,

Great flowered Virginian,

Lesser flowered.
Benjamin-tree.

Enonymus, spindle-tree, or prick-
wood,

The common.

Broad-leaved,

American broad-leaved.
Cytissus Secundus.
Dog Wood, the common,

Virginia,

LIST

Great flowering,
Newfoundland.
Guelder-rose, the common,
Double, or snowball,
Carolina,

Gold blotched-leaved,

Currant-leaved.
Thorns, double-flowering,

Clastonbuiy,

Cockspur hawthorn,

Lord Islay's haw,

Virginia maple-leaved,

Gooseberry-leaved,
L'Azerole, the greater,

Caroline L'Azerole,

Pyracantha-leaved,

Arbutus-leaved.
Neapolitan Medlar,

Dwarf medlar.
Bastard Quince.
Mespilus, the spring flowering,

Lady Hardwicke's shrub.
Willows, weeping,
Yellow Dutch,
White Dutch,
Bay-leaved sweet,
Striped palm.
Celtis, or nettle-tree,
Black-fruited,
Yellow-fruited.
Pear-tree, with double flowers,
Twice flowering pear.
Bird-Cherry, the common,
Cluster,
Carolina.
Tulip-tree,

Bastaria, Carolina all-spice.
Roses, early cinnamon,

Double yellow,

Single yellow,

Red monthly,

White monthly,

Double white,

Moss Province,

Common Province,

OF PLANTS. 629

Double velvet,

Single ditto,

Dutch hundred-leaved,

Blush ditto,

Blush Belgic,

Red ditto,

Marbled,

Large royal,

York and Lancaster,

Red damask,

Blush ditto,

White damask,

Austrian yellow,

Austrian, with flowers having one

side red and the other yellow,
Double musk,
Royal virgin,

Rosamundi, i. e. rose of the world,
or striped red rose,
Frankfort,
Cluster blush,
Maiden blush,
Without thorn,
Common red,
Burnet-leaved,
Scotch, the dwarf,
Striped Scotch,
Apple-bearing,
Single American,
Rose of Meux,
Pennsylvanian,
Red cluster,
Burgundy rose.
Briar, double red, sweet,
Double blush,
Yellow,

Eglantine briar.
Pomegranate, single flowering,
Double.

Currant, with gold and silver

blotched-leaves,
With gooseberry leaves,
The Pennsylvanian.
Gooseberry, tire American, with
currant leaves.

620

LIST OF PLANTS.

A List cf Evergreen Shrubs and Trees, now cultivated in most of the
Nurseries in England, as ornamental Plants for the Decoration of
Noblemen's and Gentlemen's Gardens, Parks, &c.

FIRST OF THE TALLER EVERGREENS.

ARBOR Vitm, common,
China,
American.

Irbutus, the strawberry tree.
Common,
Double flowering,
Red flowering,
Eastern, or Andrackna.
Cedars, Virginia red,
Virginia white,
Of Goa, 1
Phoenicia, ■ . ■ .

Lycia.

Cedar of Lebanus.
Cork tree.
Cypress, common,
Malta,

Male spreading,
Portugal.

Firs, distinguished from the Pines
by having the leaves coming out
separate or singly, and of which
are the following sorts.

Common spruce,

Red spruce,

White spruce,

Black spruce,

Silver fir, -

Balm of Gilead fir,

Hemlock.
Pine-tree, having the leaves rising
by two, three, or five, together
from the same point ; consisting of
the following :

Scotch pine, commonly called
Scotch fir, hath two leaves toge-
ther, and small cones,

Pinaster, with two leaves together,
and cones seven or eight inches

long,

Stone or manured pine, having two
leaves and cones four or five
inches long,

Weymouth, or New England, with
smooth bark, and five long leaves,

Frankincense, or three-leaved, with
very large loose cones,

Swamp, or three-leaved marsh
American, with very long leaves,

Jersey, or two-leaved Virginia,

Siberian Stone pine, with five
smooth leaves,

Three-leaved Virginia,

Prickly-coned, three-leaved bas-
tard Virginia,

Aleppo, with two narrow leaves,
and very low spreading branches.

Cluster,

Fox-tail,

Dwarf mountain.
Holly, common green,

Variegated and striped, many
varieties,

Carolina dahoon holly.
Magnolia, laurel-leaved,

Lesser bay-leaved.
Laurels, common,

Portugal,

Alexandrian.
Oak, the evergreen,

Kermes,

Holm, or holly-leaved,
Gall-bearing.
yew-tree.

OF EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

ALATERNATUS, common,

Blotched-leaved,

Jagged-leaved, plain,

Jagged-leaved, striped,

Silver-striped,

Gold-striped.
Cistus, or rock rose,

Gum cistus, with spotted flowers,

Cistus, with plain white flowers,
Purple sage-leaved,
Male with long hoary leaves,
Male Portugal,
Bay-leaved gum,
With hairy willow leaves.
Black poplar-leaved,
Waved-leaved,

LIST OF PLANTS.

621

Purple or true gum cistus of Cr
With some other varieties.
Cytisus, Neapolitan,
Canary,

Siberian and Tartarian.
Coroniila, narrow-leaved,
Broad-leaved.

Euonymus, evergreen Virginia.
Juniper, common,
Swedish,
Sclavonian,
Canada.

Hartwort of Ethiopia.

Horse-tail, shrubby,
Honeysuckle; evergreen,
Kalma, olive-leaved,

Broad-leaved,

Thyme-leaved.
Laurustinus, common,

Broad, or shining-leaved,

Rough-leaved,

Oval-leaved.
Bay, broad-leaved,

Narrow-leaved.
Spurge, or wood laurel.
Knee-holm, knee holly, or butcher's

broom.
Phillyrea, the true,

Broad-leaved,

Privet-leaved,

Prickly-leaved,

Olive-leaved,

Gold-edged,

Silver-edged,

Rosemary-leaved.
Privet, evergreen Italian,

Gold and silver-striped,
Purslane-tree, shrubby purslane.
Phlomis, or Jerusalem sage,

Narrow-leaved,

Broad-leaved.
Rose, the evergreen.
Rhododendron, dwarf rose bay
Savin, common,

Stripe-leaved,

Silver-striped.
Stone Crop Shrub.
Widow Wail.
Virginia Groundsel tree.
Germander Shrubby, of Crete.
Jasmine, Italian.
Lotus of Montpelier.
Pyracantha.
Medicago, moon trefoil.
Signonia, the evergreen.
Tursan, or park leaves
Rag-wort, the sea,
Wormwood, the lavender-leaved.
Ivy, common,
Striped-leaved,
Virginian.

List of such Trees and Shrubs as may be raised from Seed, and whose
seeds may be procured at the great Seed Shops, and of many of the
Nursery-Gardeners about London, &c.

ARBUTUS, or strawberry-tree.
Andrachnce,

Shrubby.
Ash, common,

American white,

— black,

Manna.
Ash, the mountain.
Angelica-tree.
Altheeafrute.v.
Acacia, three-thoratd.
Andromeda arbor ea, or Carolina
sorrel-tree,

Caliculated,

Maryland,
Paniculated.

But the three latter propagate
pretty plentifully by suckers.
Andromeda, the evergreen.
Anona, hardy papaw,

Common,
Arbor Vita, common,

Chinese.
Arbor Judee.
Say, common,

Benjamin-tree.
Say-loblolly.
Laurel, common,

622

LIST OF PLANTS.

Portugal.
Bladder-nut.
Broom, yellow Spanish,

Silvery, or white Spanish,

White Portugal.
Seech, common.
Axalca, red,

White.
Bignonia, scarlet,

Yellow,

Catalpa.
Bladder-sena, common,

Pocock's,

Scarlet.
Birch, common,

Black Virginia,

Lenta.

Cistus, or rock-rose,
Red or purple, all the sorts,
White, all the sorts,
Cretan, or true gum cistus of the

Levant, with deep purple flowers,
Willow-leaved gum cistus, with

large white flowers and purple

spots,

With all the other species.
Almond, sweet,
Bitter.

Celastrus, staff-tree.
Cassine.

Cypress, female, or common up-
right,
Male spreading,
Portugal,

Dwarf Maryland, Deciduous.
Hornbeam, common,

Hop.
Cherry, Cornelian.
CJethra.

Dogwood, broad-leaved,
Red-stalked,
Canada.

Cytisus, evergreen,
Secundus Clusii,
Tartarean,
Nigricans, or black,
Laburnum common,
Long-spiked.

Candle-berry-myrtle, broad-leaved,

Evergreen.
Mezereon, red,

White.

Lilac.

Snowdrop-tree.
Chamcerhododendron .
Enonymous, broad-leaved,

Climbing.
Mulberry-tree.
Maple, scarlet,

Norway,

Sugar,

Sycamore.
L'Azarole, large,

Dwarf,

Canada,

Pyracantha,

Medlar.
Hawthorn.
Nettle-tree.

Magnolia, laurel-leaved,

Sweet-scented,

Blue,

Umbrella.
Rest Harrow.
Plane-tree, oriental,

Occidental,

Spanish.
Robinia, false acacia.
Larch, common,

American black.
Cedar of Lebanus.
Oak, English,

American black,

white,

scarlet,

Champaigne,

Cut-leaved,

Willow-leaved,

Dwarf.
Evergreen Oak, common.

Cork-tree.
Lime-tree, common,

American.
Bird-cherry, Pennsylvania^

Carolina.
Walnut, English,

Large French,

American,

Hiccory, the thin shelled,

Hiccoiy, thick shelled,

Shag bark.
Holly, common.

Carolina, broad-leaved.
Juniper, common,

LIST OF PLANTS.

623

Swedish,

Spanish,

Italian.
Cedar of Virginia, red,

White.
Kalmia, broad-leaved,

Thyme-leaved,

Olive-leaved,
Chestnuts, Spanish,
Chinquepin.

Horse Chestnuts, common,
Scarlet.
Liquid amber.
Hypericums.
Button-ivood tree.
Toothache tree.
Poplar tree.
Privet.

Spircea frutex.

Tupelo-tree.

Halesia.

Kidney-bean tree, Carolina.
Yew.

Scorpion sena.
Pines, Scotch, commonly
Scotch fir,

Weymouth pine,

Stone,

Frankincense,
Pineaster, or wild,
Jersey,
Swamp,

Virginia three-leaved
Aleppo,
Prickly-leaved,
Mugho,
Cembro.
Firs, Balm of Gilead,
Silver,

Black spruce,
Hemlock spruce,

White spruce,

Red.
Sassafras.
Sumach, Carolina,

Stag's horn.
Pistacia.
Viburnum.
Persimon Plum.
Pomegranate.
Winter Berry.
Tulip-tree.
Honeysuckles.
Johnsonia.
Cephalanthus.
Hoses.

Crataegus, or wild service,

Common,

Maple-leaved,

Cockspur haw,
■. Virginia Fazerole,

Azarolus.
Mespilus, the medlar-

A List of Fruit Trees, &c, being a
their several kinds ; mentioning

APPLES, Jeneting, or June
eating,
Codlin,

Margaret apple,
Golden pippin,
Gentish pippin,
Holland pippin,
Nonpareil,
Royal russet,
Wheeler's russet,
Golden russet,
Dutch codlin,
Kentish codlin,
Cat's head,

chosen Collection of the best Sorts cf
only such as merit Culture, &c.

Golden rennet,
French pippin,
Winter pearmain,
Loan's pearmain,
Cluster pearmain,
Spencer's pippin,
Scarlet pearmain,
Feam's pippin,
Lemon pippin,
Winter greening,
White costin,
Aromatic russet,
Queening,-the winter,
the summer,

624

LIST

OF

PLANTS.

Calvel, red,
White ditto,
Margate,
Flanders pippin,
Kirkin, or kirton pippin,
Winter greening,
Stone pippin,
Masgille,
Praiseworthy,
Italian apple,
Nonesuch,
Kitchen rennet.
Pippins,
l5ownton,
Elton,
Franklin's,
Hughe's,
Balgonie,
Lemon,
Ribston,
Nuton,
French,

Yellow ingestrine,

Red ditto,

Oslin,

Padly's,

Gogar,

King of the pippins,

Wormsly's.
Dessert pearmains,

Summer,

Loan's,

Spanish,

Kirk's scarlet,

Golden,

Lamb Abbey,

Old English.
Dessert Nonpareils,

Scarlet,

Pitmaston's,

Early,

Royal,

Wright's,

M'Donald's.
Dessert Rennets,

Golden,

Fiench,
Dessert Calvelles,

Summer red,

Summer white,

Autumn.
Dessert sorts,

Alexander,
Beauty of Kent,
Carnation,

Esop's Spitzemberge,
Flower of Kent,
Golden Hervey,
Golden Gloucester,
Gravenstein's apple,
Margin,
Pomroy,
Pomgrise.
Kitchen apples,
Pippins,
Holland,
Pound,
Kerry,

Isle of Wight,

Spencer,

William's,

Broad-eyed.
Rennets,

Baxter's,

Kitchen,

Monstrous,

English,

Lord Camden's,

French,

Canadian,

Dwarf.
Russets,

Golden,

Cornish,

Great,

Caraway's,

Pile's.

Yorkshire Green.
Norfolk Beauftn,
Pears, little muscat,

Green chissel,

Catherine,

Jargonelle,

Cuisse madame, .

Windsor,

Grosse blanquette,

Beury de roy,

White beury,

Winter beury,

Grosse muscat,

Autumn muscat,

Orange bergamot,

Hamden's bergamot,

Autumn ditto,

LIST OF PLANTS.

626

Great russolet,
Winter bon cretieii,
Summer boa eretien,
Spanish ditto, -
Autumn ditto,
Messieur Jean,
La Marquise,
Devionett,
Winter russolet,
Cresan,
Colmar,
Vergoleuse,
St Germain,
Lent, St Germain,
Swan egg,
Chaumontelle.
Baking Pears, black pear of Wor-
• cester,

Parkinson's warden,

Uvedale's, St Germain,

Double flower,

Cadillac.
Beurre Goldan,

Capiaumont,

Diel,

Brown,

D'Aremberg,
. D'Ronee.
■ Gloux Morceaux.
Passe Colnwr.
Marie Louise.
Virgouleuse.
Plums, green gage,

Orleans,

Early Morocco,

Drop d'or,

White bonum magnum,

Red bonum magnum, or imperial,

Royal dauphin,

Perdrigon, blue,

— — ■ white,

Queen mother,
Fotheringham,
Roche corbon,
La royal,
Apricot plum,
Azure hative, or blue gage,
Coe's Golden drop,
Coe's pine late red,
Damson's common.
Peaches, nutmeg red,
White, ditto,

Early Anne,
Red Magdalen,
White, ditto,
Nivette,
Noblesse,
Early Newington,
Old Newington,
French mignone,
Admirable,
Chancellor,
Millet's mignone,
Incomparable,
Belle garde,
Royal George,

Pavie royal, » /

Bourdine,

Montauban,

Violet,

Hemskirk,

Catharine,

Portugal,

Gallande,

Royal George,

Royal Kensington,

Acton Scott,
Vanguard,

Vineuse.
Apricots, early masculine,
Turkey,
Brussels
Roman,
Breda,
Orange,
Algiers,
Royal,
Transparent,
Moorpark.
Nectarines, early nutmeg,
Newington,
Red Roman,
Violet,
Scarlet,
Elruge,
Temple,
Brunion,
Italian,
White,
Murray,
Claremont.
Cherries, early May,
May-dukes,
Arch-duke,

626

LIST OF PLANTS.

Harrison's duke,

White heart,

Bleeding heart,

Adam's crown heart.

Ox heart,

Turkey,

Amber,

Kentish,

Flemish,

Portugal,

Morella,

Coroun,

Wild black,

Wild red,

Begarreaw,

Begarreaw Turkey

Begarreaw black,

Eltion,

White Tartarean,

Black ditto.
Figs, common blue,

Early long blue,

Large white,

Large Genoa,

Brunswick,

Marseilles,

Cyprian,

Brown Ischia,

Brown Malta.
Grapes, white sweet water,

Black sweet water,

Black July,

Black cluster,

White muscadine,

White crystal,

Black muscadine,

Black Burgundy,

White Chasselas,

Frontiniac, red, black> while,

Claret,

Red Hamburgh,

Black Hamburgh,

Black Lisbon,

Muscat of Alexandria,

Esperione,

White Tokay.
Mulberries, the black.
Mulberries, the white,

But the black sort is best for gene-
ral culture.
Medlars, the Dutch,

Nottingham, or English.

Quince, the Portugal,
Apple quince,
Pear quince.

Walnuts, the thin shelled,
French,
Double,
Late.

Chestnuts, the manured, or Spanish
sweet.

Filberts, large red skinned filbert,

White-skinned,

Common hazle nut,

Barcelona nut, large,

Cob nut, very large,

Cluster nut,

Byzantine nut.
Gooseberries, small early red,

Smooth green,

Hairy green,

Large Dutch red,

Common hairy red,

Black,

Large yellow,

Large amber.
Currants, common red,

Champaign red,

Large white, or grape.

Common white,

Black, t
Raspberry, red fruit,

Whit? fruit,

Double bearing, producing fruit
twice in the summer.
Strawberries, the scarlet,
The red wood,
White wood,
Hautboy,

Chili, very large fruit,
Large Carolina,
Rosebeny,
Grovend scarlet,
Old pine,
Surinam,
Bath scarlet,
Keen's seedling,
Keen's imperial,
Scarlet Chili,

Pine apple strawberry, with green
fruit, and red fruit, both of a rich
flavour,

Alpine prolific, or everlasting
Strawberry, called so from its

LIST OF PLANTS.

627

long bearing, which is commonly mas. Two sorts, the red and
from June till November; and, the white,
if mild weather, till near Christ-

A List of the principal hardy Perennial and Biennial Flower Plants,
cultivated in England, as ornamental Plants for Pleasure Gardens,

ASTER, or star-wort,
Large blue Alpine,
Tradesoant's or common star-wort,

called Michaelmas daisy,
Early Pyrenasan,

Aster linarifolius, or toad's flax

leaved,
Blue Italian star-wort,
Catesby's star-wort,
Dwarf narrow-leaved star-wort,
Midsummer star-wort,
Autumnal white star-wort, with

broad leaves.
Tripolian, star-wort,
Divaricated-branched,
Virginian star-wort, with spiced

blue flowers,
Early large blue star-wort,
Rose star-wort,

Latest star-wort, with narrow

leaves, and large blue flowers,
Tallest New England star-wort,
Red flowering.

There are several other species of
star-wort of less note.
Apocynum, dog's-bane,
Red flowering,
Orange coloured,
Syrian.

Arum, Italian, large veined-leaved.
Asclepias, swallow-wort,

White,

Yellow.
Astragalus, milk vetch.
Alysson, white,

Yellow,

Violet.
Bachelor's Button,

Double red,

Double white.
Borage, the Eastern, or "oostaciti-

nople.
Double Ragged Robin.

Campanula, or bell-flower,
Double blue,

Double white, peach-leaved,
Double blue and white nettle-
leaved,

Pyramidal, or steeple, somewhat
tender,

Canary, must have shelter in

winter.
Canterbury Bells.
Blue, ■
White.

Caltba marsh marigold, double

flowered.
Cassia of Maryland.
Carnations, or gilliflowers,

Common single,

Common double,

Flakes,

Bizars,

Pipquettes,

Painted lady,

The four last are finely variegated
double flowers, and of each many
beautiful varieties.
Pinks, double pheasant's eye,

Dobson,

Deptford,

Cob, white,

Red cob,

White shock,

Damask,

Mountain,

Matted,

Old man's head,
Painted lady,
Clove pink.
Sweet JVilUam, the double red,
Double purple,
Double rose,
Double variegated,
Common red/
White,

LIST OF PLANTS.

Variegated or painted lady.
Wall Flowers, double, bloody,

Double yellow,

Double white,

Single, of each colour.
Stock July-flowers, the Brompton
double,

Queen double,

Purple double,

White double,

Striped double,

Scarlet double,

Single of each sort.
French Honeysuckle, red,

White.

Tree primrose, broad-leaved,

Red stalked,

Dwarf.
Lichnidea, early blue,

Spotted stalked, with purple spikes
of flowers,

Virginia, with large umbels,

Low trailing purple,

Carolina, with stiff shining leave?,

and deeper purple flowers.
Cyanus, broad-leaved,

Narrow-leaved,
Lychnis, or campion,

Single scarlet lychnis,

Double scarlet lychnis.
Rose campion, single,

Double,

Catchfly, with double flowers.
Hepaticas, single white,
Single blue,
Single red,
Double red,

Purple with broadest leaves,

Large yellow,

Trailing striped yellow,

Many other varieties, with purple,

blue, and white flowers.
Lindria, toad flax, large sweet-
scented purple.
Bee Larkspur.
Fraxinella, white,

Red.

Gcntiana, great yellow.
Gentianella, blue.
Glolularia, blue daisy.
Fox-glove, red,
White,

Iron-coloured.
Perennial sunflower,

Double yellow.
Cyclamen, red,

White.
Goldy Locks.
CJielone, white

Red.

Lily of the Valley, common,

Double flowering".
Solomon7s Seal, single,

Double.

Filapendula, or drop-wort.
Columbines, common blue,

Double red,

Double white,

Double striped,

Starry, double and single,

Early flowering Canada.
Thalictmm, feathered columbines.
Pulsatilla, blue pasque flower.
Hollyhocks, double red,

Double white,

Double yellow.
Orobus, bitter vetch.
Saxifrage, double white.
Versnlca, upright blue,

Dwarf blue,

Hungarian,

Blush.

Golden rod, many varieties.
Valerian, red garden valerian,

White garden.
Pudbekia, American sunflower,

Dwarf Virginia, with large yellow
flowers,

Dwarf Carolina, with narrow red
reflexed petals, and purple florets,

Virginia, with yellow rays and red
florets,

Tall yellow, with purple stalks, and

heart-shaped leaves,
Taller, with yellow flowers, and

large five-lobed leaves, and those

on the stalks single,
Tallest yellow, with narrower

leaves, which are all of five lobes.
Pulmonaria, lung-wort,
Common,
American.
Monarde, purple,
Scarlet.

LIST OF PLANTS.

629

Ephemeron, spider-wort, or flower
of a day,
White,
Blue.

Jacea, American knap-weed.-
Primrose, double yellow,

Double scarlet,

White.

Polyanthus, many varieties.
Auriculas, many varieties.
Violets, double blue,

Double white.
Violet, the major.
London pride, or none-so-pretty.
Day lily, red,

Yellow.
Fumatory, the yellow,

White,

Bulbous-rooted,
American forked.
Aconite, monk's-hood or wolf's-
bane,
Blue monk's-hood,
Yellow,
White,

Wholesome wolf's-bane.
Hellebore* or bear's-foot,

Common black hellebore,

Green-flowered.
Christmas Rose.
Winter Aconite.
White Hellebore,
Geranium, crane's bill,

Bloody crane's bill,

Blue,,

Roman,

Bladder cupped.
Daisies, common double red garden
daisies,
White,

Double variegated,

Cock's-comb daisies, w hite and red,

Hen and chicken, white and red.
Ferula, fennel giant.
Ranunculuses, or crow-foot,

Double yellow crow-foot,

Double white mountain ranun-
culus,

Eastern, with a large yellow
flower,

Turkey, orTurban ranunculus, with

a large red flower.
Persian, innumerable varieties.
Peony, double red,
Double white,
Double purple,

Male, with large single flowers,

Sweet smelling Portugal,

Double rose coloured.
Silphium, bastard chrysanthemum.
Iris, flower-de-luce, or flags,

The German violet-coloured,

Variegated, or Hungarian, purple
and yellow,

Chalcedonia iris,

Greater Dalmatian iris,

There are several other varieties of

irises, all very hardy plants.
Cardinal-Flower, scarlet,

Blue.

Rochets, double white.
Halm of Gilead, sweet-scented.
Everlasting Pea.
Eupatorium, several varieties.
Scabious, purple,

White.
Eringo, blue,

White,

Mountain, purple, and violet,
There are some other varieties.
Snap Dragon, or calf's snout,

Red,

White, -

Variegated.
Moth Mullien.
Clary, purple topped,

Yellow glutinous,

White,

Blue,

There are several other varieties
Angelica.

Asphodelus, king's spear.
Lupines, perennial blue-llowered.
Ononis, rest harrow,
Large yellow flower,
Tradcscatitia.

630

LIST OF PLANTS.

A List of such Biennial and Perennial Flower Plants as may be raised
from Seed, and which merit Places in Gardens, as ornamental Plants.

WALL FLOWERS, the Moody,
double and single,
Common yellow, double,
Single,
White.

Stock Gilliflowers, the Brompton,
The queen,
White,
Purple,
Scarlet,
Striped.

Sweet Williams, the painted lady,
Deep red,

Common variegated.
Indian Pink, double and single.
Carnation, different varieties, aris-
ing from seed.
Pinks.

Rose Campion, single.
Scarlet Lychnis, the single.
Valerian, the Greek,

White,

Red.

Bee Larkspur, the blue,
Purple.

Tree primrose.
Fo.v-glove, the red,
White,

Iron coloured.

French Honeysuckle, the red,

White.
Hollyhocks, the red,

Yellow,

White.
Rockets.

Canterbury lells, the blue,
White.
Snap-Dragon.
Veronicas, the Hungarian,

The Welsh,

Long-spiked.
Honesty, or satin flower.
Columbines, the double-striped,
many varieties arising from seed.

Canada Columbines.
Campanula, the pyramidal with
blue flowers,

Common, or peach-leaved, with
blue flowers,

The same with white flowers.
Monk's Hood, wolf's-bane, or aconite.

Blue,

Yellow,

White.

Polyanthus, many varieties arising

from seed.
Auriculas, many varieties arising

from seed.
Peony, double and single.
Globe Thistle.
Tree-mallow.
Clary, the purple,

Red-topped.
Globularia, or blue daisy.
Horned poppy.
Gentian, the Virginia.
Dragon's Head, the purple.
Sweet Scabious.

Pulsatilla, pasque flowers.
Nettle-leaved Bell flower, the blue,

White.
Balm of Gilead.
Alyssom,, or Alysson, the white,

Yellow.
Agremone.

Cyclamens or sow-bread.
Acanthus, or bear's breech.
Aloe, flag-leaved.

A List of Bulbous and Tuberous Rooted Flower Plants.

AMARYLLIS, comprising the Atamusco lily,

Autumnal yellow narcissus, Guernsey lily,

Spring yellow narcissus, Jacobaja lily,

Belladona lily, Mexican lily,

LIST 0* PI ANTS.

631

Ceylon lily,

Barbadoes red lily.

The first two of these are very
hardy; the third, fourth, and fifth,
should be kept in pots to be
sheltered from frost : the other
four must be kept in pots and
placed in the stove. See their
several respective articles.
Croons • Vernus, or spring flowering,

Common yellow,

Large yellow,

Yellow, with black stripes,

White,

White, "with blue stripes,
Blue, with white stripes,
Deep blue,
Light blue,

White, with purple bottom,

Scotch, or black and white striped,

Cream coloured.
Autumnal flowering Crocus, of the
following varieties.

True saffron crocus, with bluish
flower, and golden stigma, which
is the saffron.

Common autumnal crocus, with
deep blue flowers,

With light blue flowers,

Many flowered.
Snow Drop, the small spring flower-
ing.

Common single.
Double.

Leucoium, or great summer snow-
drop,

Great summer snowdrop, with
angular stalks, a foot high, and
two or three flowers in each
sheath,

Taller great snowdrop, with many
flowers.

0 rnithegalum, or star of Bethlehem,
Great white pyramidal, with nar-
row leaves,
White, with broad sword-shaped

leaves, spreading on the ground,
Yellow,

Pyrennean, with whitish green
flowers,.

Star of Naples, with hanging
flowers,

Middle, or umbellated, producing
its flowers in umbels or spread-
ing branches at the top of the
stalk,

Low yellow umbellated.
Brithronium, dens canis, or dog's
tooth,

Round-leaved, with red flowers,
The same, with white flowers,
The same, yellow,
Long narrow-leaved, with purple

and with white flowrers.
Muscaria, the grape or feathered

hyacinth,

Common blue grape hyacinth,

White, -

Ash coloured,

Blue feathered hyacinth,

Purple,

Musky, or sweet scented, with

dull purple flowers,
The same with large purple and

yellow flowers,

Greater African Muscaria, with
sulphur coloured flower.
Fritillaria, chequered tulip,

Early purple variegated, or che-
quered with white,

Black, chequered with yellow
spots,

Yellow, chequered with purple,
Dark purple, with yellow spots

and flowers growing in an umbel,
Persian lily, with tall stalks, dark

purple flowers growing in a

pyramid,

Branching Persian lily.
Corona Jmperialis, crown imperial,

a species of fritillaria,
Common red,

. yellow,
Yellow-striped;
Sulphur coloured,
Large flowering, ,
Double of each variety,
Crown upon crown, or with two

whorls of flowers,
Triple crown upon crown, or with

three tiers of flowers, one above

another,
Gold striped-leaved,
Silver striped-leaved.

632

LIST OF PLANTS.

Tulip, early dwarf tulip,
Tulip, late, or most common tulip,
Double tulip,

Of the two first there is an infinite
variety; florists reduce them to
the following classes, of each of
which are many intermediate
varieties, varying in their stripes.
Early, yellow and red-striped,

White and red-striped,

White and purple-striped,

White and rose-striped.
Tall, or late flowering, with white
bottoms striped with brown,

White bottoms, striped with dark
brown,

White bottoms, striped with violet
or black brown,

White bottoms, striped with red or
vermilion,

Yellow bottoms, striped with dif-
ferent colours, called bizares.
Double Tulips, yellow and red,

White and red.
Gladiolus, cornflag, or sword lily,

Common, with sword-shaped leaves,
and a reddish purple flower
ranged on one side of the stalk.

The same with white flowers,

Italian, with reddish flowers
ranged on both sides of the stalk,

The same with white flowers,

Great red of Byzantium,

With narrow grassy leaves, and
an incarnate or flesh-coloured
flower,

With channelled long narrow four
edge leaves, and two bell-shaped
flowers on a stalk,

Great Indian.
Anemone, wood anemone with blue
flowers,

White flowers,

Red flowers,

Double white.

Garden double Anemone, with

crimson flowers,
Purple,
Red,
Blue,
White,

Red and white-striped,

Red, white, and purple,

Rose and white,

Blue, striped with white.

Ranunculus, Turkey, with a single

stalk, and large double blood-red

flower,

Persian with branching stalks and
large double flowers, of which
are innumerable varieties, of all
colours and variegations to the
amount of many hundreds with
most beautiful flowers, of which
there are

Very double flowers,

Semi, or half double,

The double are the most beautiful,
and are propagated by offsets;
they produce no seed; that being
produced only in semidouble
flower, by sowing of which all the
fine varieties of double flowers are
obtained.

Panoratium, sea daffodil, common
white sea narcissus, with many
flowers in a sheath, and tongue-
shaped leaves,
Sclavonian, with taller stems and
many white flowers, and sword-
shaped leaves,

Broad-leaved American, with
larger white flowers, eight or ten
in a sheath,

Mexican, with two flowers,

Ceylon, with one flower,

Broadish roundish-leaved of Am-
boyna, with many flowers,

Carolina, low sea daffodil, with
narrow leaves, and many flowers.

The two first are hardy, and suc-
ceed in the full ground ; but the
others require to be kept in a
stove.

Molly (allum) species of garlic pro-
ducing ornamental flowers.
Broad-leaved yellow,
Great broad-leaved, with lily
flowers,

Broad-leaved, with white flowers

in large round umbels,
Smaller white umbellated,
Purple,
Rose coloured.

LIST OF PLANTS.

S3S

Fumaria Bullosa, or bulbous rooted
fumatory,
Greater purple,
Hollow rooted,

American, with a forked flower.
Narcissus, or daffodil, common

double yellow daffodil,
Single yellow, with the middle cup

as long as the petals,
White, with yellow cups,
Double, with several cups, one

within another,

Common white narcissus, with
single flowers,

Double white narcissus,

Incomparable, or great non-such,
with double flowers,

With single flowers,

Hoop petticoat narcissus, or rush-
leaved daffodil, with the middle
cup larger than the petals, and
very broad at the brim,

Daflbdil, with white reflexed petals,
and golden cups,

White daflbdil, with purple cups,

Polyanthus narcissus, having many
small flowers on a stalk, from the
same sheath ; of this are the fol-
lowing varieties: —

White, with white cups,

Yellow, with yellow cups,

White, with yellow cups,

White, with orange cups,

White, with sulphur coloured cups,

Yellow, with orange cups,

Yellow, with sulphur coloured cups,

With several intermediate varieties,

Autumnal narcissus.
Jonquil, common single,

Large single,

Common double,

Double, with large round roots.
Lilium, the lily, common white
lily,

With spotted or striped flowers,
With double flowers,
With striped leaves,
White lily, with hanging or pendant
flowers,

Common orange lily, with large
single flowers,
: With double flowers,

■2

With striped leaves.

Fiery, bulb bearing lily, producing

bulbs at the joints of the stalks.
Common narrow-leaved,
Greater broad-leaved,
Many flowered,
Hoary,

Martagon lily, sometimes called
Turk's cap from the reflexed
position of their flower leaves;
there are many varieties, and
which differ from the other sorts
of lilies, in having the petals of
their flowers reflected or turned
backward,

The varieties are,

Common red martagon, with very
narrow sparsed leaves, or such
as grow without order all over the
flower stalk,

Double martagon,

White,

Double white,
White spotted,

Scarlet with broad sparsed leaves,
Bright red, many flowered, of

pompony, with short grassy sparser!

leaves,

Reddish hairy martagon, with

leaves growing in whorls round

the stalk,
Great yellow, with pyramidal

flowers, spotted,
Purple, with dark spots and broad

leaves in whorls round the stalk,

or most common,
Turk's cap,

White spotted Turk's cap,
Canapa martagon, with yellowish

large flowers spotted, and leaves

in whorls,
Campseatense martagon, with erect

bell-shaped flowers,
Philadelphia martagon, with two

erect bright purple flowers.
Squills, Sea onion, or lily hyacinth,

common lily hyacinth, with a lily

root and blue flower,
Peruvian or broad-leaved hyacinth

of Peru, with blue flowers,
With white flowers,
Early white starry hyacinth,
2

034

LIST OF PLANTS.

Blue, '

Autumnal starry hyacinth.
Larger starry blue hjacintli of

Byzantium,
Purple star flowsr of Peru,
Italian blue spiked star flower.
Apodel lily, African blue with a

tubercus root,
Broad-leaved purple with a bulbous

root,

Asiatic, with, white umbels and
bulbous root,

American, with large white umbels
and bulbous root.

The first 'of these require shelter
from frost; and the other three
require the constant protection of
a store ; they make a fine appear-
ance in flower.
The Tuberose, or tuberous Indian
hyacinth ; it produces a tall stem,
three or four feet high, adorned
with many white flowers of great
fragrancy.

The varieties are,

Fine double tuberose,

Single tuberose,

Small flowered,

Striped-leaved.
Iris bullosa, or bulbous Iris, Per-
sian, with three erect blue petals,
called standards, and three re-
flexed petals called falls, which
are variegated, called Persian
bulbous Iris, with a variegated
flower,

Common narrow-leaved bulbous

Iris, with a blue flower.
White,
Yellow,

Blue, with white falls,

Blue, with yellow falls,

Greater broad-leaved bulbous Iris,

with a deep blue flower,
Bright purple,
Deep purple,
Variegated,

Great, with broad and almost plain

or flat leaves, with blue flowers.
Purple.

Of the above there are many inttr-
. mediate varieties.

Hyacintli, eastern, with large
flowers,

Of these there are many varieties,
reduced by florists, to the follow-
ing classes; and of which there
are innumerable intermediate
shades or tints of colours.

Of double sorts there are,

Blues,

Purple blues,
Agatha blues,
Whites,

Whites, with yellow eyes,
Whites, with red eyes,
Whites, with violet or purple eyes,
Whites, with rose-coloured eyes,
Whites, with scarlet eyes,
Reds,

Incarnate flesh or rose-coloured.

Of single sorts there are,

Blues, of different shades, aa

above,
Whites,
Reds,

Rose-coloured,

With many intermediate shades or

varieties.
Hyacinth, of the common small

sorts are the following:—
Common English, with blue
flowers arranged on one side of
the stark,
White,

Bell-shaped blue hyacinth, with
flowers on every side the stalk,

Bell-shaped peach-coloured, with
flowers on one side the stalk,

Hyacinth, with an obsolete or faded
purple flower,'

These are very hardy, and propa-
gate veiy fast by offsets of the
roots, and succeed in any situa-
tion, in the common borders, or
between shrubs.

Colchicuvis , in variety.
Leontice, lion's leaf, largest yellow
with single foot stalks to the
leaves,

Smaller pale yellow, with branched

foot stalks to the leaves,
These are tuberous-rooted plants,

and are scarce in England.

LIST OF PLANTS.

635

Cyclamen, sow-bread, European, or
common autumn flowering, with
a purple flower, and angular
neart-shaped leaves,
'i'he same, with a black flower,
'the same, with white flowers,
Red spring flowering, with heart-
shaped leaves marbled with
white,

Entire white, sweet smelling,
Purple winter flowering, with plain

orbicular shining green leaves,
Purple round-leaved autumn flower-
ing.

Small or anemone rooted, with
flesh coloured flowers appearing
in autumn.

These plants have large round
solid roots, the flowers and leaves
rise immediately from the root.

The two first varieties are hardy,
the three Persian sorts are impa-
tient of frosts, and should be kept
in pots to be occasionally shel-
tered, but all the others will suc-
ceed in a warm border under a
wall.

Superb lily, or gloriosa, red with
long slender leaves,
Blue, with oval leaves.
Corona Regalis, or royal crown.
Aconite, the winter.
Sisyrinchiwms . t

A List of Annual Flower Plants ; that is, such as come up, flower, pro-
duce Seeds, and die the same Year, and which must therefore be raised
every Year from Seed ; and the sorts here mentioned are proper as orna-
mental Plants for Flower Gardens.

We divide them into three different Beads or Classes ; that is, the tender and more
curious Kinds ; the iess tender, or hardier and more common Kinds ; the hardiest
and most common Kinds.

The first following are the more curious and tender Kinds.

FIRST CLASS.

AMARANTH, White.

Bicolor, Balsamines, or balsam, the doubl?
Cock's-comb, Amaranth purple,

The red, Double scarlet,

Purple, Double-striped.

Yellow, Martynid.

Dwarf. Brouiallia.

Globe Amaranthus, the striped, Ice plant, or diamond ficoides.

Red, Sensitive plant.

White, Humble plant.

Spiked. . * . Scarlet Convolvulus

Stramomium, the double purple, Snake Melon.

Double white. Cucumber.
Melungena, or egg plant, the purple,

The above all require to be raised and brought forward in hot-beds. Sen
the articles of tender or curious annuals, in February, March, April, May,
and June ; but the sensitive and humble plants, after being reared as above,
should always be continued either in a glass-case, green-house, or garden-
frame, under glasses, otherwise they lose their sensation, and will not
yield to the touch. ■;'

036

LIST OF PLANTS.

SECOND CLASS OF ANNUALS :

Or less tender or hardier Kinds.

The following are somewhat hardier than the foregoing, but in order to
have them flower in nay tolerable time in the Summer, they should be
first raised in a moderate Hot-bed, and afterwards transplanted into the
Borders, Beds, or Pots, &c. See the Articles of less tender, or hardier
Annuals, in March, April, and May. . v

AFRICAN Marigold, the orange,
Yellow,

Straw-coloured.
French Marigold, the striped, t

The yellow.

Sweet>seented.

China Aster, the double,

Double purple,

Double white,

Double-striped.
Marvel of Peru, the red-striped,L

Yellow-striped,

Long-tubed.

Chrysanthemum, double white,

Double yellow,

Double quilled.
Sweet Sultan, the yellow,

White,

Red.

Indian Pink, double,
Single.
AlkehengL
Pahna Christi, the common, with

large grey leaves.
Tall red-stalked, with very large

green leaves,
Smaller green,

Smallest, with heart-shaped leaves.

These plants of palma Christi
grow from three to eight or ten
feet high, and are principally cul-
tivated for their tall growth,
together with the beauty of their
palmated leaves which are sin-
gularly large, some of which,
including their lobes, will mea-
sure near two feet, and sometimes
more.

Tobacco, long-leaved Virginia,
Calceolaria piiZata.
Sckizanthus, several sorts,

Broad-leaved,

Branching perennial.
Love Apple, with red fruit,

With yellow fruit.
Gourds, round smooth orange,

Rock or warted,

Pear-shaped yellow,

Pearrshaped striped,

Stone-coloured.
Bottle Gourd, some very large,
from two or three to five or six
feet long, and of various shapes.
Momordica, Balsamina.
Persicaria.
Indian Corn, the tall,

Dwarf.
Nolana,
Mignionetle.

Convolvulus, scarlet-flowered.
Yellow Balsam, or touch me not.

Capsicum, the long red podded,

Long yellow podded,

Red, short, thick, roundish podded,

With heart-shaped pods,

With cherry-shaped fruit, red,

Cherry-shaped fruit, yellow.
Basil, the common or sweet-
scented,

Bush basil.
Zennia, red,

Yellow.

Tree amaranthus,
Prince's feather amaranthus,
Love lies a bleeding amaranthus.

Cannacorus, yellow,
Red.

Chinese Hollyhock, the variegated.
Ten week Stock Gillijlower,

The double red,

Double white,

Trouble purple.

LIST OP PLANTS.

637

White Ten-week Stock, with a wall- The double of this sort makes a
wvi™ , ,• , pretty appearance.

With double and .single flowers.

„n?°le<rTite Te^wiU 8™w if sown °n a warm border towards the
end of March, and should be afterwards transplanted; but by sowine and
bringing them forward in a hot-bed, they will flower sooner by a month or
six weeks. 1 " "*

The China aster, chrysanthemums, white and purple sultan, African
and French marigold alkekengi, persecaria, &c, will also grow in a warm
border of natural earth, if sown in April, and afterwards transplanted : but
they will riot flower so soon by a month or six weeks as when sown and
properly forwarded in a hot-bed.

THIRD CLASS OF ANNUALS,
Or Hardy Kinds.

he following are hardy Annuals, requiring no assistance of artificial
heat, but should all, or at least most of them, be sown in the places
where it is designed they shall flower. See the Articles of Hardy
Annuals, in February, March, April, and May.

ADONIS Flower, or flos Adonis,

the red flowering.
The yellow.
Candy Tuft, the large,
Purple,
White.
Larkspur, the double rose,
Double-branched,
Large blue double,
Double white.
Lupines, the rose,
Large blue,
Small blue,
Yellow,
White,
Scarlet,
Marbled.
Sunflower, the tall double,

Double dwarf.
Lavatera, red,
White.

Poppy, the double tall-striped car-
nation,

Dwarf-striped,

Double corn poppy,

Horned poppy.
Convolvulus Major,

Minor,

Striped,

White,

Scarlet.
Starry Scabious.
Hawk-weed, the yellow,

Purple, or red,

Spanish.

Carthamus tinctoria, or saffron

flower.
Nasturtium, the large,
Small.

Corintke Major, or honey-wort.
Tangier Pea.

Sweet Tea, the painted lady,

The purple,

White.
Winged Pea.

NigeUa, or devil in a bush, the
long blue or Spanish,
The white.

Oriental mallow, curled,

Venetian mallow.
Coreopsis tinctoria, of sorts.
Clarkia pulchilta, of sorts,
Labels Catchfly, white and red.
Dwarf Lichnis.

638

LIST OF PLANTS.

Venus Navel wort.

, — Looking glass.

Virginia Stock.

Strawberry Spinach.

Noli me tangere, or touch me not,

Pansies, or heart's ease.

Snail-plant.

Caterpillar's -plant.

Hedge Hog plant.

Antirrhinum, or snap dragon, the

annual.
Cyanus, the red,

White,

Blue.

Roman Nettle.

•Belvidere, or summer cypress.
Xeranthemum, or eternal flower,

red and white.
Garden or common Marigold, the
common single,

Double orange,

Double lemon coloured,

Double lemon coloured ranunculus

marigold.
Annual Cape Marigold, with a

violet and white flower.
Mignionette, or Reseda, the sweet

scented,
The upright.
Purple Clary.
Purple Ragwort.
Dracocephalum, the purple,

Blue.

Capnoides, or bastard fumatory.
Ten-week Stock Gilliftowers, in va-
riety. _
Persicaria.
Tobacco Plant.
Indian Com.
Amylhystea.

A List of some of the

ALOES, the large American,

Large striped ditto.
Aloes, the African sorts,

Mitre,

Sword,

Tongue,

Upright triangular,
Pentangular,
Succotrine,
Cobweb,

Partridge-breast,
Cushion,
Large Pearl,
Pearl tongue,
Soap-like,
Keel-shaped,
Zelon,
Fan, '
Cat chapped,
Spiral.
Arums.
Ambrosia

Anthyllis, Jupiter's heard.
Arctotis, wind-seed, several varie-
ties.

Aster, the African shrubby.
Anthospermum.

sorts of Green-House Plants.

Apocynum Fruticosum.
Apium Macedonicum.
Asparagus, shrubby, two or three

varieties.
Bosea, golden-rod tree.
BupUhalmums, some varieties.
Campanula, bell-flower,
The Dutch,
•American.

Chrysocoma, goldy locks.
Convolvulus, the silvery.
Celastrus, staff-tree.
Cliffortia, major,
Minor,
Bush.
Caper.

Cistus, rock rose, several sorts.
Chamomile, double Italian.
Cyclamen, the Persian,
Sweet scented.
Coronilla, jointed podded.
Crassula, six or eight sorts.
Cytisus, trefoil.
Digitalis.

Biosma, several sorts.
Iris Uvaria.
Euphorbia, major.

LIST OF PLANTS.

639

Minor.
Geraniums, crane's-bill,

The scarlet,

Balm-scented,

Scarlet horse shoe, -

Pink ditto,

Variegated,

Sorrel- leaved,

Nutmeg-scented,

Striped-leaved,

Rose-scented,

Vine-leaved,

Hollow-leaved.
Gnaphalium, some varieties.
Grewia.

Heliotrophium, the sweet-scented.
Hypericum, the Chinese.
Hermania, several sorts.
Jasmines, the Azorian,

The Catalonian,

Yellow Indian.
hvia, the Chinese.
Justicia, two sorts.
Kiggettaria.
Leonurus, lion's tail.
Jjemons,
Oranges.
Citrons.

Candy Tuft-tree,

Dolus, a bird's foot trefoil, two or

three sorts.
Lycium, hawthorn.

Lentisus.

Lavatera, Lusitanica.
Malabar Nut.

Mesembryanthemums, many sorts.
Myrtles, many sorts.
Oleander, red,

White,

Double.
Olive.

Opuntia, Indian fig, some varieties.
Osteospermur>if hard-seeded suji-

flower.
Ononis, rest-harrow.
Phylica, the heath leave.
Phyfalis, winter cherry.
Sage, the shrubby African.
Silver-tree,

Scabious, the shrubby.
Sempervivum, several sorts
Sideroxylum or iron wood.
Sedum, the variegated,
Plain.

Solanum, nightshade, several sorts.

Amomum PlinU, or winter cherry.

Pomum Amoris.

Stapelia, some varieties.

Tetragonia,

Tucrhcm.

Tree Germander.

Tenacetwm Fruticens, shrubby
tansey.

SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE

OF

HOT-HOUSE PLANTS;

Being the tenderest exotics from the hot regions of South America, Asia,
Africa, &c, requiring in this country continual shelter and artificial
heat, under glass departments of hot-houses and stoves, furnished inter,
nally with fire or bark-bed heat, or of both occasionally in winter, gene-
rally having an internal tanner's bark hot-bed, made in an oblong raised
pit, generally of about three feet depth by five to six or seven feet wide,
ranging lengthways the middle space of the hot-house continuing a con-
stant heat all the year, and assisted by that of fire in winter and spring,
from October to May, to support a regular degree of internal heat at
all seasons, equal to that of the hot countries of which the plants are
natives and whence they were originally obtained.

This collection of exotics consists both of the tree and shrubby tribe, and
of herbaceous perennials, of the fibrous, bulbous, and tuberous-rooted
kinds ; as also many sorts of succulent plants, or such as have fleshy
stalks, branches, and leaves replete with humidity and ' in the general
collection, the plants are in duration from two or three, to several and
many years' continuance ; and from a few inches to several feet in growth,
in the different genera and species, &c, and which collection of different
hot-house plants are retained principally, for variety, curiosity, and
observation, many of which are most curious and singular, and many
produce beautiful ornamental flowers; but the pines in particular are
the principal or only sorts cultivated, as economical plants, for their
production of that admired fruit, the pine-apple.

in the following arrangement the species are methodically disposed under
their respective genera, or families, which are distinguished by their
general Botanic and English Names, and with the most proper names
of every different species, of which many form a short specific distinc-
tion, in the following order: —

(Sapota), American Sapota or

mammee tree,
Mamniose, great fruited mammee,
or American marmalade.
ABRUS, wild liquorice, Achyranthes (Achyranthes),

Precatory Jamaica wild liquorice, Rough spiked achyranth.es of
Achras, sapota, or mammee tree, Ceylon,

SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE.

C41

Rough spiked Sicilian,
Lappaceous, or burry-fruited,
Echinated achyranthes.
Adansonia, Ethiopian sour-gourd.
{Bahabob), or Ethiopian sour-
gourd of Senegal,
Digitated, or finger-leaved adan-
sonia.

Eschynomene, or bastard sensitive
plant,

Great flowered Indian.
Sesban), or Egyptian eschy-
nomene,

Vaciliant eschynomene, or Chinese
moving plant,
Adenanthera pavonina, peacock
adenanthera, or bastard flower-
fence.

Adianthum, maiden hair.
( Capillus Veneris), or true maiden
hair.

Agave, great American Aloe,
Viviparous, or childing agave,
producing young plants from the
flowers,

Fetid, or stinking entire-leaved
agave,

(Karatta), or deep green-leaved
agave,

Veracrusian, broad-leaved.
Albuca, or bastard star of Beth-
lehem,
Major, or greater,
Minor, or less,
Channeled-stalked, flowery.
Aletris, or hyacinth flower aloe,
(Hyacinthoides), or hyacinth
flowered stalkless aletris,
Ceylon variegated aletris,
Guinea aletris, green and black,

variegated, with roots jointed.
Cape, waved-leaved, stalkless,
Fragrant, elegant flowered stalky
aletris.
Aloe, African aloe,
Perforated sword-leaved shrubby
aloe, many varieties, viz.
(Aloe ferox), or broad-leaved

thorny aloe,
Glaucous, thorny-backed aloe,
Glaucous, short-leaved,
Spotted, thorny-leaved,

Small spotted, thorny,
Greater spotted, thorny,
Perfoliated, smooth glaucous
aloe,

Mitre-shaped, broad-leaved thorny
aloe,

Succotrine, or narrow-leaved thorny
aloe,

Broad spotted-leaved, called soap
aloe,

(Aloe humilis), humble aloe.
(Aloe vera), true or common aloe,

with sheathing, plane, spotted

leaves, thorns crowded,
Viscous triangular aloe,
Variegated upright triangular, or

partridge-breast aloe,
Broad-leaved,
Narrow-leaved,
Spiral pentangular aloe,
Distichous, or two-ranked tongue

aloe,

Spotted tongue-leaved soap-aloe,
Keel-shaped tongue aloe,
Plaited, or fan-tongue aloe, shrubby
stalked,

Warted carinated tongue aloe,
Retuse-leaved, or cushion aloe,
Dwarf pearl aloe,
(Magaritifera), or pearl-bearing
dwarf aloe,
Minor pearl aloe,
Minimous, or least pearl aloe.
(Arachnoides, or cobweb dwarf
aloe.

Alstremaria (Alstremaria),
Peregrine upright Alstremaria of

Peru, purple-spotted.
(Ligta), or ascending Alstremaria

of Lima, purple-striped.
Amaryllis, lily daffodil,
For mostimine, or most handsome

amaryllis of the island Jacobea,

called Jacobea lily (singularly

beautiful).
(Belladonna), or Belladonna lily,
Reginean, or queen Belladonna

amaryllis, or Mexican lily,
Sarnian amaryllis, or Guernsey iily.
Long-leaved African lily,
Oriental long-leaved amaryllis, 01

Brunswegia,

642

SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE

Cape remote flower,
Ciliated Ethiopian,
Guttated, or spotted,
Vittated, or ribbon flowered,
Undulated curled purple,
Ceylon snowy amaryllis, the petals
with a purple stripe.
Amomum, or ginger,
(Zinziber), or common true
ginger,

(Zerumbef), or wild ginger,
Anacardium occidentale, or western

American anacardium.
Annona, or custard apple,
Murexed fruited,
Squamous fruited,
Netted fruited,
Asiatic annona.
Amyris balsamifera, or balsam bear-
ing sweet amyris.
Antholyza, or Ethiopian corn flag,
Ringent, or gaping scarlet an-
tholyza.

(Meriana Jlore rubeuoj, reddish
meriana, or funnel-flowered an-
tholyza.

(Meriannella), or little meriana,
Ethiopian scarlet gladiolus.
(Cunonia), or straight flowered

antholyza,
{Maura), or hairy yellow antho-
lyza, r '
Apocynum, dog s bane, .
Frutescent Ceylon apocynum,
Nettle-leaved climbing Indian.
Arctopus echinatus, echinated prick-
ly arctopus.
Arduina bispinosa, or two spined

arduina.
Areca Olcracea.
Aristolochia, or birth-wort,
Indian birth-wort.
Artocarpus, or bread fruit-tree.
Arum, wake-robin.
(Colocasia), or greater Egyptian
arum,

(Arum) segtdnum, or dumb cane,

or canna-leaved arum,
Arborescent, or tree arum,
Peregrine, heart obtuse-leaved,
Aurited, or eared-leaved,
Divaricated heart, halbert-leaved.

Macrorrhizon or long-rooted Ceylon
arum,

Esculent American arum, or Bra-
zilian cabbage,
Crinited or hairy,
Pedated or foot-shaped,
Pictated or painted arum.
Arundo Sambos (Sambos), or In-
dian cane.
Asclepias, or swallow-wort,
Cui assoan, orange-flowered,
Gigantic asclepias, or auricula

tree,
Tuberosus,
Tenerifl'ean,
Aster fruticosus, or shrubby aster.

B

BANISTERIA lanrifolia, or bay-
leaved banisteria.
Sarkria,
(Prionitis), orfour-spined barleria,
Box-leaved, opposite spined.
Sasetla, or Malabar night-shade,
Red basella,
White basella.
Bauhinia, mountain ebony,
Acuminated-leaved,
Ungulated parallel lobed leaved,
Divaricated lobed leaved,
Hoary-leaved.
Begonia oblique, or oblique eared-
leaved begonia,
Great white flowered,
Rosy flowered minor, smooth,
Rosy flowered minor, hairy,
Rosy flowered orbicular-leaved.
Bignonia, trumpet flower.
(Leucoxylon), or digitated acumi-
nate-leaved bignonia,
Jamaica tulip-tree,
Indian doubly pinated-leaved,
Standing or erect firm stemmed

trumpet flower,
Peruvian decompound-leaved.
Suva Orellena (Orellena), or Ame-
rican scarlet bearing ornatto.
Bocconia frutescens , or shrubby oak-
leaved boccouia, or tree celandine.
Boerhaavia scandens, or climbing
Boerhaavia,

OF HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

643

Bornbyx, or silk cotton tree.
(Ceiba), or quinate-leaved silk cot-
ton tree,

Pentandrious flowered, finger-
leaved,

Bombyx gossypium, or cottony
borabyx.

Bontia Dapknoides, or Daphne-like

Barbadoes white olive.
Bromelia, ananas or pine apple,
(Ananas), or common pine apple,

oblong round fruited,
Pyramidal or sugar-loaf pine-
apple,
King pine,
Queen pine,
Golden fruited,
Olive fruited,
Brown fruited,
Black Antigua pine,
Montserrat pine,
White fleshed pine,
Late olive coloured pine,
Shining smooth-leaved-
Silver striped-leaved,
Gold striped-leaved,
(Penguin), or Jamaica wilo pine,
{Karatas), or stalkless American

wild pine.
Borassus fiabellifer, fan-bearing, or

fan-leaved palm.
Brunia, Ethiopian tamarisk,
Lanated or woolly heath-leaved,
Ciliated ovate-leaved,
Mossy brunia.
BrunsfeUia Americana, or Ameri-
can white flowering brunsfellia.
Buchnera Ethiopica, Ethiopian tri-

dented-leaved buchnera,
Buddleja globosa, globular buddleja.

C

CACALIA, foreign colt's foot,

Pepillary-stalked, or truncated
petioled cacalia,

(Anteuphorbium), spurge-bane or
shrubby, oblong-leaved cacalia,

(Ficoides), or ficoides like, com-
pressed-leaved,

Artriplex-leaved.

(Klenia), compound stemmed
cacalia, called cabbage tree in
America.
Cactus, melon thistle, also torch
thistle, creeping cereus, and
Tndian fig, viz.,

(Melon Thistles),

(Melon cactus), or greater four-
teen angled melon thistle,

Mammillary tubercled, lesser
melon thistle,

(Torch Thistles),

Heptagonal, or seven-angled torch
thistle,
Quadrangled torch thistle,
Hexangular torch thistle,
Pentagonal torch thistle,
Repand, or serpentined, octangular

torch thistle,
Lanuginous, or woolly-spined sub-
niue-angled,

Peruvian sub-octangular,

{Roycni), or Royen's sub-ten-
angled,

(Creeping Cereuses),

Flagelliform, or whipthong-shape,
or common creeping cereus,

Grandiflorous, or great night flower-
ing creeping cereus,

Triangular creeping cereus,

[Opuntia, or Indian Jigs.)

(Opuntia), common opuntia, or
Indian fig,

(Ficus Indicus), or common Ame-
rican Indian fig,

Moniliform, or necklace-shaped
Indian fig,
( Tuna), or awl-spined Indian fig,

Cochineal-bearing opuntia,

Curassoan ventricose opuntia, or
pin pillow,

(Phyllanthus Americana), Ameri-
C/ln phyllanthus, or sword hart-
tongue-leaved opuntia,

(Pereskia aculeata), prickly pe-
reskia, or American gooseberry,

Purslane-leaved thorny opuntia,

Most thorny clustered spined.

(Cisalpinia),

(Sappan), or sappan wood,
Vesicarious, or bladdered.
Camillia Japonica, Japanese ever*

644

SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE

green scarlet rose, or tsubaaki
leaves broad, flower scarlet,

Single flowered,

Double flowered.

Canna, Indian shot or canna-
corous,

Indian broad-leaved,

Indian striped-leaved,

Indian yellow,

Narrow-leaved,

Glaucous-leaved.
Canella Cinnamomea, or cinnamon.

— (See Laurus).
Capparis, caper tree,

Thorny,

Arborescent.

Capsicum fruticense, or shrubby

. berberry capsicum.
Carica, or papaw.
(Papaya), or Indian papaw,
melon-like fruited, leaves sinuated.
(Posoposa), or pear-fruited leaves
entire.

Caryota wrens, or stinging date-
bearing palm.
Cassia, wild senna.
(Fistula), flstular or purging

cassia of Alexandria,
Biflorous, or two-flowered,
Ligustrine, or privet-leaved,
Bicapsular, or two-capsuled,
Tenui -podded, . «

Plane-podded,
Mimosa-like of Ceylon.
Cassitha Jiliformis, or thread-form
cassytha.

Catesbea spinosa, thorny catesbea,

or lily thorn.
Casuarina equisetifolia, or winter

horse-tail-leaved Tinian pine.
Cedrela odorata, odorous Barbadoes

cedar.
Cerbera.

(Manghas) lactifera, milk-tree or

spear-leaved cerbera.
(Ahouai major), or ovate-leaved

cerbera.
Cestrum, bastard jasmine,
Diurnal, or day-smelling,
"Nocturnal, or night-smeliing.
Ccropegia candelabrum^ or chande-
lier ceropegia.

Chamerops humilis, or dwarf-palm,
or palmetto,
Mild or prickless.
Chironia,

Shrubby, large red flowered,
Bacciferous, or berry - bearing

shrubby,
Lacerated, or rent chironia.
Chrysophyllum goldleaf, orstarapple.
(Canito), star-apple, or Indian

damson-tree,
Golden-leaved star-apple,
Glabrous or smooth-leaved.
Cissus, wild grape,
Heart-leaved,

Acid, trifoliate, oblong-leaved.
Cinchona officinalis, officinal cin-
chona, or Peruvian bark.

Cytharexylon, or sidele wood,

Cinereous, or white-barked,

Caudated, or tailed-spiked.

Claytonia,
Virginian- linear-leaved,
(Portulacaria), or purslane-leaved
claytonia.

Clusia ftava, or yellow Jamaica
balsam tree.

Clitoniaternatea (ternated), or wing-
leaved blue clitoria,

Cocoloba, sea-side grape.
(Uvifera litorea), or grape-bearing

sea-side cocoloba,
Rubescent, or blushing cocoloba,
Punctated, or dotted fruited.

Cocos nucifera, nut-bearing cocos,
or cocoa nut-tree.

Coffea Arabica, or Arabian coflee
tree,
Broad-leaved.

Commelina Africana, African trail"
ing commelina.

Coin Lachryma Jobi, or Job's tears.

Copaifera officinalis, or officinal bal- "
sam of capivi tree.

Cordia Sebestena (Sebestena), or lig-
num aloes.

Cornutia pyramidalis, or pyramidal
blue cornuti.

Corypha umbracidifera, or umbre-
liferous palm.

Costus Arabicus, or Arabian costus.

Cotyledon, or navel-wort,

OF HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

645

Orbicular-leaved,

Hemispherical, or half-globular-
leaved.

Crecentia Cujete (Cujets), or cala-
bash tree.
Crinum, or lily asphodel,

Broad plane-leaved,

Asiatic carinated-leaved,

African sublanceolate, plane-leaved,

American introrsed-flowered,

Long-leaved,

Ceylon striped-flowered,

Pendulous-flowered.
Crossula, lesser orpine,

Perfoliated cornate-Ieaved, or
Jacob's ladder,

Cultrated, or knife-leaved,

Quadrated, or whip-cord crassula,

Orbicular crassula,

Pellucid crassula,

Scabious, or rough-stalked.
Crotalaria (Crotalaria),

Laburnum-leaved,

Chinese oval-leaved,

Jamaica crotolaria.
Croton, tallow-tree,

Sebeserous, or tallow-bearing cro-
ton, or Chinese tallow-tree,

(Cascarilta), or sweet-scented

croton,

Glabellous, or smooth ovate-
leaved,
Maple-leaved.
Curcuma, turmeric,
Round-rooted,
Long-rooted.
Cycas, sago palm,
Circinated tree sago palm, broad-
leaved,
G uinea sago palm.
Cyclamen Indicum, or Indian cy-
clamen; with the limb of the
corolla or flower nodding.
Cynanchum, or American scam-
mony, hairy American cleft-
barked,
Suberous, or cork -barked,
Viminalous, or osier-twigged

climbing.
Cytissus.

(Cajau), or American pigeon-pea
or Indian soft hoary-leaved cytisus,

Surinam cytisus.

Cynosurus Indians, or Indian cyno-
surus.

DAPHNE Indica, or Indian spurge
laurel.

Delintasarmentoza, or sarment

shooting Ceylon delima,
Dais cotinifolia, Venice sumach

leaved dais.
Dioscorio,
Sativous, or cultivated dioscorio, or

West India yam,
Bulb-bearing stalked, or round-
rooted West India yam.
The large fleshy roots and bulbs of
these plants are used as a sort of
bread in the West Indies, and for
which the plants are cultivated in
great abundance in that hot
country.
Draccna, dragon-tree,
(Draco arbor), or true dragon tree,
Ensifoliate, or sword-leaved,
Erect-leaved,

Ferraceous, or irony dracena, or

Chinese iron tree,
Terminal herbaceous dracena.
Dracontium, or dragons,
Spinous Ceykn dragons, narrow-
leaved,

Pertused, or piurced-leaved Ame-
rican dragons.
"Duranta, or castorea,
Plumiers contorted American
duranta,

(Elisia), or erect Jamaica duranta.
E

EHRETIA, or bastard cherry,
Tiuus-leaved Jamaica ehretia,
(Bourreria), or ovate entire-leaved
Jamaica ehretia,
Echites, or Jamaica dog's-bane,
Suberect spike-flowering echites,
Umbellate flowering climbing
echites.

Eleocarpus serrata, or saweo? spear-
leaved eleocarpus,

046

SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE

Elephantopus, elephant's foot,
Scabrous, or rough elephautopus,
Hoary elephautopus.
Erigeron fetidum, or stinking lance

linear-leaved erigeron.
Erythrina, coral tree.
{Corallodendron), or coral-tree,
Herbaceous dwarf coral-tree, long

scarlet-spiked,
Pictated, or painted coral-tree,

prickly-leaved.
Eugenia, pomme-rose,
(Jambos), or West India pomme-
rose; peduncles branching, ter-
minal,

Malaccan East Indian pomme-
rose ; peduncles branching, la-
teral.
Euphorbia, spurge,
Antiets' triangular-stalked,
Canaiy subquadrangular spurge,
Officinal multangular spurge,
Cotinifoliate, or Venice sumach-
leaved,

Nerifoliate, or oleander-leaved,
[Tithymaloides padifolia, or padus-

leaved tithymaloide spurge,
Tithymaloides myrtifolia), or
myrtle - leaved tithymaloide
spurge,

Mauritauian shrubby African
spurge,

Mamillary-tubercled euphorbia,
Cereus-formed spurge,
Heptagonal, or seven-angled
spurge,

(Tmccallt), or Indian shrubby
spurge,

Viminalous, or osier-twigged
spurge.

F

F AGARA, iron-wood tree,
{Pterota, or emarginated-leaved
fagara.

(Tragodes), or prickly-folioled,
{Piperita), Japan pepper, or

notched-folioled fagara.
Ferraria undulata, or undulated

Cape starry iris.

Ficus, fig tree,
Sacred, or poplar-leaved fig;
Racemosed or cluster-fruited,
Bengal rooting stalked,
Dwarf creeping stalked,
Nymphe-leaved.

(Sycamorus), sycamore mulberry
leaved, or Pharaoh's fig.

Indian radicant-branched,

Benjamin fig.
Fritillaria,

{Regia Corona regalis), or royal
crown fritillaria; a crown of tufted
leaves above the flowers,

Dwarf royal crown, round-
leaved.

, G

GARDINIA fiorida, flowery gar-
dinia, or cape jasmine,
Single-flowered,
Double-flowered.
Genipa Americana, or American

genipa, or janipha.
Gesnera tomentosa, or hoary-leaved

gesnera.
Geranmm,

Tristous, or sorrowful night-
flowering, or anemone-leaved
geranium,
Lobated-leaved,
Pinnatifid-leaved,
Shaggy-leaved,
Prolific myrrh-leaved,
Pinnated-leaved,
Long-leaved,
Sorrel-leaved,
Aurited, or ear-leaved,
Orbicular-leaved,
Carnose, or fleshy jointed,
Lanceolate, or spear-leaved,
Cordifolium, or heart-leaved,
Ti-igonal stalked.
Roseum odoratwn, or ross odour,
Levigated, or polished smoaih.
leaved.

Note. — All the above geraniums
will also succeed among the
green-house plants.

Gladiolus, or sword lily,

OF HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

647

Spiked flowered, single-stalked,
Tristous, or sorrowful-like bell-
flowered,
Narrow, linear-leaved,
Plicated, or folded sword-leaved.
Gloriosa superba, or superb lily.
Gossypium, or cotton-tree,
Arboreus, or cotton-tree, with a
shrubby stem ; leaves pal-
mated,

Barbadoes, shrubby cotton, leaves
tree lobed.

Gomphrena perennis, or perennial
globe amaranthus.

Greuria orientalis, oriental, or east-
ern grewia.

Guaiacum, or lignum vita;,
Official, two paired folioled,
(Sanctum), or holy-wood tree,

leaves many-paired obtuse,
African acute folioled, many-
paired, or myrtle-leaved.

Gvrdonia decandria, ten male, or
ten stamined Gordonia.

Guarea trichiloides, or trichilia-like,
branching flowered guarea.

Guettarda speciosa, or specious
guettarda from Java and Ja-
maica ; leaves most large ovate
roundish, flowers long seven
parted.

Guilandina (bonduc), or nickar
tree,

{Bonduc vulgare), or common

bonduc or nickar tree,
(Bonducetta), or little bonduc, or

nickar tree,
{Moringa Zelanica), or Ceylon

moringa,
Lacerated, or, rending nickar-tree.

H

HEM AMTHUS, or blood flower,
Scarlet African blood flower,
Puniceous, or red purple heman-

tbus or spotted stalked,
Ciliated leaved purple,
Villous blood-flower,

Carinated, or keeled-Ieaveo*.
Hemtoxylum Campechianum (Cam*

peckianuvt) or logwood.
Hedysarum, French honeysuckle,
Styrax-leaved,
Amentaceous-flowered,
Moving plant.
Helicteris, or screw-tree,
(Isora), or contorted-fruited he-
licteris, or common screw-tree.
Heliocarpus Americana, or Ameri-
can mulberry-leaved heliocarpus
of Vera Cruz.
Heliotropium Peruvianum, or Pe-
ruvian many spiked, sweet turn-
sole.

Hernandiasonora, sonorous, or
"whistling hernandia, called
Jack in a box: the wind blow-
ing in the large hollow seed
capsule makes a sonorous whistling
noise.

Hibiscus, Syrian mallow,
(Malvaviscus), or viscous Indian

tree mallow,
Poplar-leaved hibiscus,
Lime tree-leaved,
Fig palmated-leaved,
{Rosa Sinensis'), or rose of China,
Mutable, or changeable rose of

China; Flos horarius, or flower

of an hour,

(Alelmoschus), musk flower, or
musky seeded hybiscus.

(Sabdarijfa), or cut, three parted,
and entire-leaved hibiscus,
Hippomane, or manchineel tree.

{Mancinella), or common man-
chineel tree, ovate-leaved,

Biglandular, oblong-leaved.

Hura crepitans, crepitant or crack-
ling hura, or sand-box tree, seed
capsules bursting with a loud
explosion, and which being large,
of many compartments, are used
in the West Indies as sand-boxes
for writing-desks.
Bymenea Courbaril, (Courbarilbifo-
~lia), two-leaved courbaril, locust,
or elemi tree.

648

SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE

JATROPHA, French physic-nut,
Multifid, smooth-leaved,
(Oarbas), or heart angular-leaved
Jrtropha,
Stinging palmated-leaved.
(Manihot), or esculent palmated
Jatropha, called cassada, or
cassava ; the root being pre-
pared into bread in the West
Indies,
Gossypium-leaved jatropha.
IUecebrum lanatum, or woolly-leaved

illecebrnm.
Illicium Floridanum,Flonidn starry

aniseed tree.
Indigo/era, indigo,
Tinctorine, or dying, greater

indigo,
Hirsute, or shaggy-podded,
Scandent, or climbing,
Argenteous, or silvery.
Jussienna repcns, or creeping jus-
siena,
Erect jussiena,
Justiria, Malabar nut,
(Echolium), or reflexed flowered
justicia,
Hyssop-leaved justicia,
Pictated, or painted justicia, with

inflated chaps of the corolla.
Ixora, American jasmine,
Scarlet flowering, oval-leaved,
Scarlet flowering, ovate-lance-
leaved,

• American three-leaved Jamaica.
K

KEMPFERIA Galanga(Gatanga),
or ovate-leaved sjaJaugale.

h A GERSTEMI A Indica, or In-
dian Jagerstemia . leaves oblong
alternate.

Lantana, American viburnum, in-
volucated-leaved umbelled,

(Camara), or leafless umbelled
lantana,

Aculeated, or prickly lantana,

Trifoliate, or three-leaved,

Smooth-leaved.
Laurus, bay-tree,

(Cinnamom-um), or cinnamon-tree,
or Ceylon bay,

Fetant or stinking bay,

(Cassia), or ever-flowering bastard
cinnamon.

(Persea Americana), or pear-
fruited American bay, called al-
ligator pear,

Chinese bay.
Lechea,

Crispated, or waved-jointed

stalked,
Equal round stalked.
Lechea major, greater lechea,
Limodorum tuberosum, or tuberous-
rooted purple limodorum; or
American helleborine,
Lobelia, or cardinal flower,
Long flowered,
Coronopus-leaved.
Lotus Jacobeus, or Jacobean black

lotus, or bird's foot trefoil.
Lychnis coccinea, or scarlet Chinese

campion, or lychnis.
Ludwegia ovata, or ovate-leaved
ludwegia.

M

MALPIGHIA, Barbadoes cherry.

Smooth-leaved,

Glossy shining-leaved,

Stinging-leaved,

Punica-leaved,

Verbaseum-leaved.
Malva Capensis, or Cape mallow.
Manvmea Americana, or American

mammee apple,
Mangifera Indica, or Indian man-
goe-tree.

Maronta, or Indian flowering reed,
Arundinaceous, or reedy maronta.
or common India flowering reed,

OF HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

64 9

{Galanga), Indian galangale, or

Indiau arrow-root.
Martynia perennis, or perennial

martynia.
Metastoma holocericea, or velvety

silk-leaved melastoma.
Mesua ferrea, iron mesua, or In-
dian rose chestnut.
Michelia Champaca {Champaca), or

sweet-scented yellow michelia.
Mimosa, sensitive plant, and acacia

(sensitiva), or sensitive plant,

leaves conjugate pinnated,
Pudicous, or modest, sensitive, 6r

humble plant ; leaves subdigitated,

pinnated,
Vivaceous sensitive plant, stem

herbaceous,
Pigra, or slow bastard sensitive

plant,

Pernambucau sensitive plant,
Plenated, or double-flowered an-
nual sensitive plant,
Punctuated, or dotted-stalked mi-
mosa,

Virgated, or twiggy mimosa,
Nilotic Egyptian mimosa, or gum
arabic,

Arborous, or tree Indian acacia,
Cornigerous, or horn-bearing
acacia,
Horrid-thorned acacia,
Tamarind-leaved acacia,
Lati-siliquose, or broad podded,
Farnesian Indian acacia, gazia, or
sponge tree,
Broad-leaved acacia,
{Lubbeck), or colutea-leaved Egyp-
tian acacia,

( Unguis cati), or cat-claw podded
mimosa,
Vague downy-leaved mimosa,
Peregrine American mimosa,
Glaucous, or sea-green leaved,
Purple flowered acacia.
(Intsia), or Madras angular-
stalked acacia.
Circinal podded mimosa.
Murraya exotica, exotic murraya.
Musa, plantain tree, and banana,
Paradisian musa, tree of paradise,
or evergreen plantain tree,

o

Sapient deciduous plantain tree,
or banana.
Morea.

Vegetaceous channelled-leaved;
Rushy awl-leaved.
Myrtus, myrtle tree,
Ceylon-odorous myrtle,
{Pimento), Jamaica all-spice, 01
long-leaved myrtle,
Round-leaved,

Diecous, or two-house myrtle.
Munchausia speciosa, or specious
flowering munchausia, oblong
ovate-leaved.

N .

NYCTANTHES, Arabian Jas-
mine,

(Sambac), orange-leaved nyctan-

thes, or Arabian jasmine,
Single flowered.
Double flowered,

Large double, or grand duke of
Tuscany's,
Striped Arabian jasmine,
{Arbortristis), or sorrowful tree.

0

OLEA odoratissima, most odorous

Chinese olive,
Ophioxylum serpentitium, or serpen-
tined ophioxylum.
Origanum Egyptiacum, or Egyptian

marjoram.
Oxalis, or wood-sorrel,
Purple,
Yellow,

{Pes caprm), goat's foot, or umbel-
liferous wood-sorrel,

Versicolorate, or various coloured
flowering,

Incarnate flowered.

P

PANCRATIUM, or sea daflbdil,
Ceylon, one flowered, with petals
reflexed,

E

6.50

SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE

Monican two-flowered,

Caribbean, many-flowered,

Amboina, broad-leaved, many-
flowered,

(Calpense), or Gibraltarian.
Parkinsonia aculeata, or prickly

American Parkinsonia, minute
leaved.

Passiflora, or passion flower,
Serrated undivided-leaved,
Apple-fruited, undivided-leaved,
Laurifoliated, or bay-leaved,
(Murucuja), or lunated-leaved,
Quadrangular-stalked,
Holosericeous, or silky-leaved,
Punctated, or dutted-leaved,
Fetid, or stinking hairy,
Suberous, or cork barked,
Red flowered,

Pedated, or foot-shape-leaved,
Minima, or least flowered,
Vespertilious, or bat-winged,
Normaline, emarginated-leaved,
Capsular-fruited.

Patagonula Americana, or Ameri-
can patagonula, with serrated and
entire leaves.

Paulinia,
Barbadoes paulinia,
Asiatic prickly-stalked,
(Gurura), or wedge-folioled,
Curassoan, ovate iolioled.

Perdapetes Phenicia, or scarlet In-
dian vervain mallow.

Petiveria, Guinea-hen weed,
Alliaceous, or garlic-scented,
Octandrous, or eight male flowered

Phcni.v dactylifera, or date-bearing
palm.

Phyllanthus, or sea-side laurel,
(Epiphyllanthus), or floriferous-

leaved phyllanthus,
Grandifoliate, or great-leaved,
(Emblica), or pinnated-leaved,

berriod-fruited phyllanthus,
(Niruri), or herbaceous upright

Phyllanthus,
Madeira spatarian wedge-leaved.
Physalis, or alkekengi, winter-
cherry,

Curassoan, hoary-leaved winter
cherry,

Viscous-fruited of Bonaria,
Peruvian.

Phytolacca diecia, diecious flowered
or two house shrubby Phytolacca,
or tree American nightshade.
Piper, pepper,
Reticulated, or netted-leaved,
(Jlmalaga), or long-spiked Jamaica
pepper,
Obtuse-leaved,

Nigrum, or black round pepper,
{Malamuri), or high-nerved-leaved
pepper.
V ereicillate-leaved.
Piscidia Erythryna {Erithryna), or
bastard coral tree, or Jamaica
dogwood.
Pisonia aculeata, prickly pisonia, or
flngrigo.
Plumbago, or lead-wort,
Ceylon, filiform-stalked,
Scandeut, or climbing-stalked
American.
Plumeria, West India jasmine,
Red plumeria, ovate oblong-leaved
White spear-leaved,
Obtuse-leaved, snowy.
Poinciana, Barbadoes flower fence,
Pulcherrimous, or most beautiful

poinciana; spines paired,
Chinese spineless,
Bijugated-leaved purple ; spines

single,
Elated, or tall spineless.
Polypodium, polypody,
Aureous, or golden,
Auriculated, or eared,
Trifoliate, or three-leaved,
Difl'used, or spreading.
Portulaca Anacampserot, or lesser

house-leek shrubby purslane.
Portlandia,

Grandiflorous, .or great flowered,
hexandrious, or six male flowered,
Pisidiwm, gnava,
Pyriferous, or pear-bearing,
Maliferous, or apple-bearing,
Vittated, or ribband pisidium.
Plerocarpus,
Polygonum-like,
Aphyllous, or leafless.
Pteris, fern,

OF HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

651

Caudated, or long-tailed,
Lineated-leavetl Domingo fern.

R

RANDIA, or American box-thorn.
Mild or tliornless round-leaved.
Aculeated or prickly.
Rauvolfia nitida, or glossy smooth

four-leaved rauvolfia.
Rivinia, «>
Humble or dwarf rivinia,
Canescent or hoary white-leaved

red-berried,
Octandrious, or eight male flowered.
Rondeletia Americana, or American
spear-leaved rondeletia,
Odorous rondeletia.

S

SACCHARUM, sugar cane,
Officinal, or common sugar cane,

flowers panicled,
Spiked-flowered saccharum.
Sapindus, soap-berry,
(Saponaria), or common soap-
berry, leaves impar pinnated,
Spinose, abrupt pinnated.
Senecio, groundsel,
(Pseudo China), or bastardy yel-
low China root.
Sida, Indian-mallow,
Cordifoliate, or hearted-leaved,
Rhombous-leaved,
(Abutilon), or roundish heart-
leaved sida.
Sideroxylon, iron wood,
Inermous, or tliornless Ethiopian,
Spinose, or thorny Malabarian.
Solanwm, nightshade,
Verbascum-leaved American,
Guinea dark green-leaver,
Quercus-leaved of Peru,
Sodom African nightshade, or

apple of Sodom,
Igneous or fiery red spined,
Sanctous 01 holy night-shade of

Palestine,
Indian pear-fruited,

Tomentose, or hoary powdered
leaved,

Bonarian tree nightshade, large
golden fruited,

Campeachy echinated nightshade;
the calyx hedge hogged,

Feroceous prickly Malabar night-
shade,

{Soianwm Guincense), or black
Guinea nightshade ; large black
cherry-fruited.
Sophora, silvery colutea.
Tomentose, silvery-leaved of Cey-
lon.

Biflorous, or two-flowered Ethio-
pian sophora,
Lupinoides lupine-like sophora, of
Kamstchatka,
Cape sophora,
White flowered,
Occidental American sophora.
Spondius, American plum,
Yellow American plum, glossy
leaved,

(Myrobalanus), great American
plum ; leaves shining, sharp
pointed,

(Mombiri), or black American
plum.

Stapelia,

Hirsuted upright branching stape-
lia, with beautiful fringed flowers,
Variegated spreading branched,
Mammillary warted stapelia.
Sterculia (dirt wood), or Ceylon nut

fetid or stinking.
Sioietenia Mohagani, (Mahoguni)
or mahogany tree, leaves pin-
nated impar.

T

TAMA RINDUS Indie us, Indian
tamarind tree, pinnated haiiy
leaves,

Theobroma, chocolate nut tree,
(Cacao), or common chocolate nut

tree, leaves entire,
{Guazuma), or sawed-leavcd theo-
broma,

Angustous heart-leaved China t.heo-
bj-uiiia.

662

SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE, &c.

Tournefortia,

Sawed ovate-leaved American,
Cymose spiked of Jamaica, Jeavss
naked,

Volubilate climbing Tournefortia,
Most fetid Mexican Tournefortia,
Diffused branching,
Undershrubby Jamaica Tourne-
fortia.

Triumphetta Lapputa (Lappula), or
burry prickly-fruited triumphetta.

Tropeoliim majus, {Jlore pleno), or
major double nasturtium.

Tulbagia Capensis, Cape tulbagia.

Tuberne montana curifolia, citron-
leaved taberne montana.

Thumbergia speciosa, or specious
flowered thumbergia.

Turnera ulmifolia, elm-leaved tur-
nera.

V

VTNCA (Pervinca), or peri-
winkle,

Rose periwinkle of Madagascar,
White flowered,
Indian hairy-leaved.

Aculeated, or prickly volkameria
spines at the rudiments of the
petioles,

Unarmed or spineless branched.

W

W zchendorsia,

Thyrse-flowering, or single-scaped,
Panicle-flowering, many-scaped,
Winterana, or winter's bark,
(Canella), oblong-leaved canella,
winter's bark, or wild cinnamon,
Aromatic winter's bark.

X

XYLOFHYLLA longifolia, or
long-leaved love flower,
Latilolius, or broad-leaved.

Z

Zamia pumila, dwarf rigid-leaved
zamia,
Thorny-leaved.

APPENDIX.

PREFACE.

This Appendix is intended to supply the deficiencies of Abd
croraby, or to state the improvements since his time, in regard
to the forcing of the most important of the hot-house fruits
In the forcing of peaches, cherries, and similar stone-fruits, but
especially of grapes, and still more especially of pines, great
improvements have of late years been introduced. The de-
scription of these improvements is evidently a desideratum. A
concise sketch of them has been therefore attempted here.

For a considerable number of these improvements, as having
been suggested to him in the course of his own practice, the
Editor is alone responsible. Some have been brought under
his notice in the practice of others. Particularly in regard to
the forcing of Pines, he feels called on to state, that the follow-
ing directions are the substance of notes taken by him in the
Royal Forcing Gardens, Kensington, where he had the advan-
tage of seeing the practice for several years under Mr Aiton,
and his very intelligent foreman, Mr Plimley. The rates of
temperature prescribed for the Pines, may excite surprise, and
may be thought extremely high ; but he has to reply, that
they are, if any thing, below those employed in the Kensington
Gardens, and that he has no where else seen Pines grown to
greater advantage, or to more perfection.

APPENDIX.

FORCING PINES.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Those who have excelled in the cultivation of pines seem to agree that
three distinct compartments are necessary, namely, one for crowns and
suckers, one for succession plants, and a third for plants in a more ad-
vanced stage of growth to mature their fruit.

The necessity for these different pits or houses arises from the plants
requiring different modes of treatment, and particularly different degrees
of temperature, at their different stages of growth.

It is the decided opinion of the most celebrated cultivators, that a bot-
tom heat is essentially necessary to the cultivation of this esteemed fruit.
Attempts to cultivate pines without bottom heat have been made by Mr
Knight and others, but generally, we believe, with little success.

Of all the means for producing the mild bottom heat required, we con-
sider old tan, oak, or other tree leaves still to be the best. In prepar-
ing the tan, it should be thrown together into an open shade, or into a
round heap out of doors, and frequently turned over, that it may be
thoroughly fermented and nearly half-rotten, before putting it into a new
pit. When this process is properly attended to, it will produce the
required heat, and avert the danger of overheating.

When shifting the plants, or at all times when the heat requires to be
increased, add each time, of new tan, from about one eighth to one half of
the whole, as may appear necessary. In putting in the new tan trench or
turn over the old from the bottom of the pit, and mix the old and new
to-ether, turning up twelve or fifteen inches of the old to the surface in
which to plunge the pots again. When the old tan becomes much decayed
and reduced to mould, it will then require to be sifted, and the small
thrown out. The necessity for stirring up from the bottom may, however,
be delayed for a few weeks, by carefully raking off a few inches of the
surface/without disturbing the pots, and filling up the space to the full
height of the pots with a coat of iresh tan. This mode is particularly
necessary in severe weather, when not convenient to have the plants re-
moved for turning over the whole, and more particularly when the plants
are in their last stage of cultivation ; that is, when the fruit is swelling
off Their roots will then generally be found to have got through the
holes in the bottom of the pots, and to have extended themselves
amongst the decayed tan, and should not be disturbed if possible In
houses and pits which are heated by flues, the tan will be found sometime.;

5-56

APPENDIX.

to become too dry, particularly nearest to the hottest part of the flues.
In this case, water must be applied over the tan. A fine moist heat will
thus be produced, at all times most desirable in pine houses.

We may observe that where tan is not easily procured, oak and other
tree leaves are equally.good. Indeed, we rather prefer oak leaves to tan.
But neither should be introduced into the pits in large quantities, until
they have been properly fermented. When leaves are used, they require
tn be well trodden down, in order that they may not subside too much
afterwards. They must also be kept moderately moist. When the pits
are filled with leaves it is desirable to have at least a few inches of decayed
tan or leaves upon the surface. This is at once better adapted for agree-
ably plunging the pots, and will be found to adhere more closely round the
pots than the undecayed leaves alone. We have always found the heat
produced from well prepared leaves more sweet and agreeable than that
produced from tan, and fully as lasting ; and when the roots of the plants
have penetrated through the bottom of the pots, as observed above, we
find that they run still more freely among half decayed leaves than in tan.

When plants are shifted for the last time, it is particularly necessary
that the pit in which they are to be placed should be well prepared, in
order that a proper degree of heat may be continued by top dressing, as
above, till the fruit be ripe. We would always prefer good oak leaves for
this stajje of their culture.

JANUARY.

NURSING PINE PLANTS.

Under this head are to be considered suckers and crowns which have
been taken from the plants or fruit in the course of the preceding summer
or autumn, and potted, or which is done with the greater part, planted
into a pit or ivooden frame for the purpose, among decayed tan or leaves.

The principal thing to be attended to at this season, is the temperature.
During the night it should be kept as near 60" as possible. During sun-
shine, it may be permitted to rise to 65°, or even to 70°, especially when
iir is admitted, which should be freely given every fine day. Apply
sufficient linings to the wooden frames, when the heat is kept up by means
of dung and tan only. Cover the lights carefully with mats every night.
When the weather is severe and frosty, add to this a covering of dry hay or
straw. The coverings should be put on about sunset, and removed soon
after sunrise, except in cases of extremely severe weather. The utility
.U uus nwst, we think, be obvious to every one, as it is certainly a
much more rational nractice to shut out the cold, than to force in artificial
heat to keep up the temperature to the required degree.

SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

The plants occupying this department are principally crowns and suckers
taken from the fruit or plant at an earlier period of the preceding summer
than the nursing plants, potted and brought into fl ames, or flued pits, iu

Jan.]

APPENDIX.

657

the month of July, or beginning of August, and shifted, most oi them, in
the month of September.

In regard to these also, the chief thing to be attended to is the temper-
ature. It should not now be allowed to exceed 60° during the night, and
air may be admitted freely every fine day when it rises above 65°. Water
should be given but very sparingly, and to the roots only at this season.
It should never be used at a lower degree of temperature than that of the
pits or house.

FRUITING PINE PLANTS.

Hebe also the temperature is of essential importance. It should he
kept steadily at from GO0, to 65°, as it is more desirable for general pur-
poses that the plants should not start into fruit till the middle or end of
next month. Some sorts, however, are found to swell tolerably well
during winter; the Jamaica, in particular. At no time is assistance more
necessary than when the fruit first appears ; especially in one particular,
the preservation of a proper bottom heat. For, notwithstanding the air of
the house is kept sufficiently warm by the flues, yet, if the plants be not
curefully preserved in a brisk bottom heat, they will be checked in their
first growth, and will be much inferior in size to what they would other-
wise be. Such, therefore, as are in fruit, should be kept as deep in the
bed as possible, especially when the temperature of the house cannot be
kept sufficiently high for them, without sacrificing the remainder, whose
general crop it may be desirable to delay till a later season. The heat of
the bark-bed should also be carefully kept up, when declining, by the mode
of top-dressing recommended in the general remarks ; or, when a more
general change of the tan becomes necessary, by taking up the pots, remov-
ing from the surface and sides such bark as may be much decayed, filling
lip with new bark, mixing all well together by forking the whole up from
the bottom, then replunging the pots to their rims, as before. Let the
fires be made regularly every morning and evening, guarding especially
against excess of temperature, by a thermometer placed in the hot-house.

Water should be given the plants once a week or fortnight, or as it may
seem necessary. It should be given very moderately at this season, and
as little as possible to the heart or leaves. For watering the pines and
other plants in the house, a long tin pipe is eligible, having three joints, by
which it may be lengthened or shortened as convenient ; and a funnel at
the largest end for receiving the water. By this the water may be con-
veyed to the pots in any part of the bed with the greater exactness, and
without being poured upon the heart or leaves of the plants. For watering
the different sorts of plants, soft water is to be preferred, the cold chill
being previously taken off, by keeping it in a tub or cistern, conveniently
attached to the hot-house. All the tender exotics should be watered as
often as required ; the woody kinds often ; the succulent tribe more seldom,
or at least in less quantities at a time.

They should all be kept perfectly clean from dust or any sort of foulness.
If any thing of that kind appear on their leaves, let the large leaved sort ie
washed with a sponge, the others occasionally watered all over the top.

FORCING VINES. :

The most celebrated cultivators of this much esteemed fruit, seem
2 E 2

658

APPENDIX.

agree, that the month of February, or beginning of March, is the best
time to commence forcing. In many situations, however, where a supply
is wanted throughout the year, forcing is commenced by the first of No-
vember, and sometimes sooner; and, notwithstanding the disadvantages,
grapes are often thus obtained in good perfection by the month of April.
Where there are two or more houses, indeed, it will generally be desirable
to begin forcing one of them by the first of the year.

The house having been put in order for this purpose, as directed in
November, the fires should be regularly applied at night, and even a little
in the day, should the state of the weather require. But the fires should
be so moderate, that the temperature of the house may not exceed SO0
during the night, for the first ten days. Then the temperature should be
gradually raised to 55", at which it should remain until every bud in the
house has begun to swell. It should then be gradually raised, so that it
may be about 60", when the vines are breaking into leaf. From this time
it should be gradually increased, so as to reach 70° or 72° by the time the
vines come into flower.

From the commencement, air should be freely admitted every day, by
letting down the lights or opening ventilators, so that the temperature may
at no time exceed the fire-heat medium more than eight or ten degrees.

From the time the forcing is commenced, the syringe or garden engine
should be freely applied every day to moisten the shoots and buds. The
house should be regularly filled with steam every evening after the fires
are lighted, and when the flues have become sufficiently warm for the
purpose. A pot or two of water may be placed on the hottest part of the
flue an hour or two before. This, when sprinkled over the flues, will
produce steam in greater abundance, than if applied in a cold state. A
pot of water may also be sprinkled over the flues when the fires are made
up for the night. This will keep a moist atmosphere during the remainder
of the night.

It has been our regular practice, for a number of years, when beginning
to force, to introduce a quantity of unfermented dung into our early vinery.
This is built up into a ridge along the house. Being frequently turned,
and receiving additions occasionally, it discharges a quantity of steam
regularly over the house, and is generally sufficient to seep it at the
required degree of temperature for the first two weeks. We consider this
practice of most essential service to bring away the buds in a strong and
vigorous state. We may add, that since we adopted the practice, we
have never been troubled with red spider, or any other insects. We
generally remove the dung when the vines have pushed a few eyes of
young wood.

If the vines are planted on the outside of the house, they should be pro-
tected by a sufficient quantity of moss wound round their stems with a
hayband.

If not already done, the surface of the border outside should be stirred
up a little with a fork, and a coating of good moist dung should be laid
over it to the depth of six or seven inches. This, indeed, should always
be done in the beginning of winter, before severe frost sets in. It is of
much benefit to the vines ; both protecting their roots from the frost, and
affording them a supply of nourishment. This, indeed, and watering the
borders with liquid manure, are the onfy means of supplying the necessary
nourishment; as digging them, however slightly, would, in most cases, be

APPENDIX.

659

very injurious to the roots. The borders should be well watered with the •
drawings of the dunghill. As much should be given as will penetrate
fully to°the depth of the roots. This may be repeated occasionally during
the course of this, and the two following months.

FORCING PEACHES AND NECTARINES.

The forcing of peaches and nectarines is in many situations begun in
December, in order to have ripe fruit in May. Little is to be gained by
beginning earlier. But when there are two or more compartments, it
is generally desirable to commence forcing a portion about the first of the
year.

The house, borders, &c, being in readiness for this purpose, as directed
in November, a little fire may now be applied every night. This should
be very moderate for the first two weeks ; the temperature of the house not
to exceed 45" or 48° during the night, and air to be freely admitted when
the temperature reaches 55° during the day. Then the temperature
should be gradually increased, so as to reach 55" by the time that the trees
are in flower; giving always abundance of air every fine day when the tem-
perature exceeds the fire minimum a few degrees. A regular and steady
temperature is of the greatest importance to the success of the trees
and crop.

The trees should be regularly syringed every morning, or after the house
is shut up for the evening. A little water may be sprinkled over the flues,
when the fires are made up for the night, which, at this season should not
be earlier than ten o'clock.' The borders should be kept moderately moist ;
but care must be taken not to deluge them with water, otherwise the flower-
buds will be in danger of falling off, and a failure of the crop will be the
consequence. To avert this danger, instead of syringing with the garden
engine, we would recommend Reid's patent engine with a fine rose. This
act's like a dew upon the branches and buds, and greatly promotes the rise
of the sap, and the strength and breaking of the buds.

The surface of the borders within the house should be frequently stirred,
and kept fresh and clean. No part of them should be allowed to become
dry or hard. This is sometimes apt to happen through inattention, parti-
cularly at the part where the flue enters the house.

FORCING PEACHES AND NECTARINES IN POTS OR BOXES.

The trees should be prepared according to the directions given for cher-
ries and plums. The soil should be rather lighter and much richer than
that recommended for the peach and nectarine borders; and there should
be an abundant supply of liquid manure, to make up in some degree for
the confined space allotted to the roots in the pots or boxes.

Where there is the convenience of a green-house or a conservatory, the
trees may be placed there for two or three weeks before the forcing is com-
menced in the peach-house. Being thence removed to the peach-house, they
should remain till the fruit is stoned. They may then be placed in a vinery
for a few weeks to forward them till the fruit begins to swell off, then
replaced in the peach-house, or rather in the green-house or conservatory,
in the green-house, the fruit appears to fine effect; and, from the abun-

660 appendix. [Jan.

dance of sun and air, it is matured to great advantage; acquiring a peculia.
richness both of flavour and colour.

When the fruit is set, the plants should be moderately supplied with
water. When stoned, the supply of water should be abundant, and the
surface of the pots should be covered with rotten dung, which should j„
renewed occasionally.

FORCING CHERRIES.

The sorts preferred for forcing are the Mayduke, and sometimes tho
Morella.

Plants for the purpose are generally preparing a year or two before forc-
ing, in the following mode. They should be chosen young in the nursery,
or, where many of them are to be forced annually, it may be proper for
each gardener to propagate his own. When a year from the bud,
they should be carefully tied up and potted in pots, tubs, or boxes, of
size according to their roots, and the strength of the trees, to be afterwards
shifted into larger pots or boxes, as may seem necessary. The boxes
should be perforated with many holes for the egress of the roots, and the
purpose of draining. Instead of broken pieces of pets, it is preferable to
cover the holes with pieces of fresh turf. These, while they admit a suffi-
cient degree of filtration, will not impede the egress of the roots. After
planting, plunge the plants into a sheltered, but not shaded part of the
garden, in which to remain till ready for forcing. Here supply them
regularly with water, and cover the surface with rottun dung, both to pre-
vent excessive evaporation, and to nourish the trees. Those intended to
remain in this state of preparation for more than a year, should betaken
up, after pruning, any time before the beginning of spring, and such of
their roots as have penetrated into the natural soil should be carefully cut
off. This, while it will not injure their growth, will promote their fruit,
fulness. A sufficient number of plants should be continually kept in this
state of preparation; new supplies being always put in the place of those
removed into the hot-house. These need not always be young trees.
Many which have been forced one season, may, if in a weak state, be
taken out of the boxes, headed down, dressed about the roots, and planted
out in a quarter of rich loam, where they will be fit for repotting in a year
or two. Others, which have not been forced very early, will be in a good
state for forcing two years successively. Such, however, as do not break
freely and show symptoms of vigour, should be thrown away. The same
rule is applicable to apricots and plums. As to gooseberries and currants,
they are so easily propagated, and so much better for forcing while young
than old, it is not worth while to preserve them after bearing a crop in the
cherry-house. They may be planted in any part of the garden when
wanted to fill vacancies, or altogether thrown away.

For receiving them, when ready for forcing, the floor of the house,
being generally: formed of good rich loam, should be well forked up. The
roots will thus have freedom to penetrate through the holes in the pots or
boxes, as, indeed, most probably, they have already begun to do in the
natural ground. If this is the case, care must be taken in removing them,
tc injure the roots as little as possible. They will strike into the fioor,
and derive from it a considerable share of nourishment. Having been
previously pruned according to the usual mode adopted in the open air,

Feb.]

APPENDIX.

661

let them be plunged a little into the flora-, but not too deep ; or else, without
plunging, let it suffice to draw a little of the mould of the house round
them-. Stir up the surface of the mould in the boxes or pots, and, if no
roots intervene, remove a portion, supplying it with some rich loam, and
covering with an inch or two of rotten dung, whicn should be frequently
replaced.

In arranging those with other plants in the hot-house, attention should
be paid to the circumstance, that cherries, plums, and apricots require
the most light and air. Gooseberries, from their dwarf habit, will take up
little space, and cause little shade, by being placed in the front line. Cur-
rants will grow well in a little shade, and may therefore occupy the middle,
so as to be partially under the shade of the larger trees, but not too much
lo endanger the setting of their fruit.

FEBRUARY.

NURSING PINE PLANTS.

The general management of this department is exactly similar to that
nf the preceding month, at least for the first two or three weeks, the tem-
perature being the principal thing to he attended to. As the season
advances, and becomes milder, with more sunshine, the temperature
should be gradually increased. Water should also be given more freely ;
and no opportunity should be lost for giving air freely every fine day, to
strengthen the plants, and prevent them being drawn up in a weak and
sickly state.

Towards the end of the month, the crowns or suckers, taken from the
fruit or plant the preceding summer or autumn, and hitherto remaining
where planted, in the bark-bed, should now be potted. Their roots,
which by this time will generally have become of considerable extent,
should all be pruned within an inch or so of the bottoms of the crowns and
suckers; and any decayed leaves about the bottom of the stems should be
removed. Let them be potted, the suckers into 32 sized pots, and the
crowns, if not very large, into 48's. Place a small piece of broken pot or
oyster-shell over the hole in the bottom of each pot — over this, a little
clean round sand, or some fragments of pots or bricks pounded small —
then a little of the properly prepared mould. Place the plant at the pi-c-
per depth — fill up the pot with the mould, giving it a gentle beat upon the
potting bench, that the mould may settle regularly among the roots, and
press it regularly down with the fingers round the plant, but not very hard,
unless the mould is sufficiently dry. Let the surface then be dressed off
to the depth of half an inch below the margin of the pots, that these may
hold the necessary supplies of water. If the mould is dry, give a gentle
watering to settle it about the roots. The bed into which they are to be
plunged, should be prepared for their reception, by turning the pit over
from the bottom, and adding such a supply of fresh tan as maybe necessary
to ensure a lively heat. Having laid a sufficient quantity of the old tan
on the surface, plunge the pots ; selecting the largest plants for the back
row, and so on to the front row, which should be occupied by the smallest
plants. In order to prevent the roots from being scorched by too violent

662

APPENDIX.

a bottom heat, it is a good plan to place a piece of plain tile or slate under
the bottom of each pot. The plants should be placed at such distance
that their leaves may barely come in contact.' If the sun is strong, it will
be necessary to shade them slightly a day or two in the hottest part of the
day, reducing this by degrees, till the plants strike root, which will
generally be in the course of eight or ten days. After this, supply regu-
larly air and water. By this time the temperature should be increased to
65" or 70° during the night, and may be allowed to rise 8° or 10° higher,
by the addition of sun-heat during the day.

SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

The plants occupying this department should now have grown to a con-
siderable size and strength, and will require to be again shifted towards
the end of this month, if the weather be fine. If well managed, they will
generally all require to be shifted at the same time. Only some may
require to be delayed. For the safety and greater convenience of handling
the plants, as they are taken out of the bed, let the leaves be carefully
gathered up, and gently tied together with a string of fresh matting.

For such as are thought to be sufHciently strong to be forwarded into
fruit in the course of the summer, have proper sized pots cleaned, and a
sufficient quantity of properly prepared mould. Turn the plants carefully
out of the pots, with their balls entire. If their roots are much matted
round the bottoms of the balls, let them be gently loosened and partially
cut ofl'. Rub a little of the mould off the surface of the balls, and remove
any decayed leaves. Let the pots be properly drained, as for the nursing
plants. Plant rather deeper than before. Fill up the space round the
ball, stirring it gently down with a thin lathe, so that no space .may be left.
Press the mould down pretty closely with the fingers. Dress ofl' the sur-
face neatly to the depth of half an inch below the margin of the pots, so as
to leave room for the necessary supplies of water. The bed should be
prepared for receiving them by being carefully turned over, and mixed
with a sufficient quantity of new tan. At this time, it is a good plan tu
plunge the pots only about a half or two-thirds of their depth, and after-
wards, when the heat begins to decline, to add a top dressing. We would
always recommend a piece of plain tile or slate to be put under the bottom
of each pot ; as thus a stronger degree of bottom heat may be applied, with
less danger of scorching the roots. The plants should be arranged accord-
ing to their size, in the same way as the nursing plants. Succession plants
particularly, should never be crowded closely together. It is also of much
importance now to have them placed near the glass.

Such of the plants as are not intended to be brought into fruit this
season, we would recommend to be now shaken out and disrooted, as
directed for nursing plants ; and put into pots of the same size, or even it
may be a size less. With regard to the temperature, air, and water,
these are to be treated in the same way as tiie nursing plants.

FRUITING PINE PLANTS.

Pakticoxar attention should now be paid to this department, as the
plants should be beginning to show fruit. Towards the middle of the
Dionth, let the tan or leaf bed be turned over from the bottom, and such

APPENDIX.

<>68

quantity of fresh tan or leaves added, as may be necessary U) ensure a
genial bottom heat. Mix the old and new well together, and turn up
about fifteen or sixteen inches of the old decayed tan or leaves to the sur-
face, in which to plunge the pots. Although the plants have been all
shifted in autumn into pots of the size in which they were intended to
mature their fruit, it will now, however, be necessaiy to shift such of them
again as appear in want of room for their roots. Turn them carefully out
of their pots, and remove any decayed leaves, and a little of the decayed
mould off the surface of the balls ; taking care to disturb the roots as
as little as possible. The pots having been properly drained, let the plants
be placed rather deeper than before. Fill up the space round the ball with
the mould, stirring it gently down with a thin piece of lathe. Such of the
plants as appear sickly and do not stand steady in the pots, should also be
taken out and examined ; and if the roots appear unhealthy or decayed,
the ball should be considerably or wholly broken down, the unhealthy
roots cut off, and the plants potted again into pots of the same, or even of
a less size. Such of the plants as appear healthy, and have sufficient
room for their roots, should only have a little of the decayed mould on the
surface of the pots gently loosened and removed, and replaced with fresh
mould.

l% The plants having been examined and treated as each appears to require,
and the bed prepared for their reception, let the pots be plunged about two-
thirds of their depth; a top dressing to be added when the heat begins to
decline. The distance at which the plants should be placed, must depend
upon their size. Good fruiting plants should not have less than two feet
from the centre of one plant to that of another. When they are all
plunged, and the house neatly done up, and washed out, settle the mould
about them with a little water, and give them a gentle syringe overhead,
to wash off any dust from the leaves. The temperature should now be
gradually increased, so that, by the end of the month, it may be about 70°
or 72°. But it should be kept from exceeding SO" or S2° from sun-heat,
•by the free admission of air every fine day. The paths and flues of the
house should have plenty of water sprinkled on them every night, and the
plants will also require a more copious supply. If the heat of the bed should
rise rather violently, but not so as to render a removal of the plants neces-
saiy, the heat may be allowed to escape, and the roots kept from the
danger of scorching, by loosening and detaching the tan or leaves a little
round the pots, to the depth of two or three inches. This may be effected
by means of an iron hook attached to a handle of sufficient length. Two
or three watch sticks should always be kept thrust into the bed, to fully
the depth of the pots, by the frequent examination of which, an experienced
person can easily ascertain and regulate the temperature of the bed. For
the less experienced, some recommend a thermometer plunged to the
depth of the pots, by which to regulate the bottom heat at from S0° to 85°.

FORCING VINES.

The directions given for this department last month, with regard to
temperature', airing, watering, and steaming of the house, should be fol-
lowed till the vines come to flower. The temperature should then be
increased to 72". Syringing should be discontinued until the fruit
is si.'t; but the flues and borders of the house should be regularly sp *nkled

664

APPENDIX.

[Feb.

with water, in order to preserve a fresh moist. atmosphere. Air need not
be admitted so freely as heretofore and afterwards — only so m'jch as to keep
the temperature within due bounds, and with every precaution against
cutting winds — as vines are found to set their fruit best in a high temper-
ature and moist atmosphere. We may observe, that though we approve
much of a moist atmosphere, we disapprove of steaming the vines, at least
to any extent, from the time that the branches begin to be developed. Tc
oppress the vines at any time with a rank or an overheated moisture,
tends to produce a spongy and unhealthy growth. It is too customary,
and cannot be sufficiently reprobated, to produce such a rank and noxious
moisture by overheated flues. The moisture should at all times be fresh,
never stagnant, and relieved by a short interval of dry atmosphere once
a day.

For some weeks after the bunches have shown themselves, they must be
regularly examined, at least once or twice a week, and pruned. This
may generally be performed with the finger and thumb, without using a
knife. Where the bunches show themselves distinctly, the shoots may be
stopped at the second eye, or a few eyes above the fruit, according to the
space that each shoot may have to occupy. Such shoots as show no fruit,
or do not require to be retained for bearing the succeeding season, should
be rubbed off close to the old wood ; and all tendrils as they appear. Thus
dear the vine of all weak and superfluous shoots, whether springing from
the old or the new wood ; so as to throw all the strength and sap into the
wood retained for succeeding purposes, and to prevent unnecessary shade
and confusion; observing to retain the strongest and best formed shoots for
the production of a crop next season. It is desirable that a considerable
portion of these should not have fruit upon them this season. Let them be
tied up to the trellis, as they advance, with strings of fresh matting, allow-
ing sufficient room in the ties for the swelling of the shoots, and laying
them in at the distance of from ten to fifteen inches asunder. Such shoots
as have been stopped will throw out lateral shoots, which must be pinched
off above their first eye from the shoots.

The best method of training Vines, particularly in hot-houses, is to train
them directly up the roof. This is the best method at once to secure a
regular supply of bearing wood in every part of the house, and by its regu-
larity, to avoid confusion. The young shoots of vines should, never be
crowded closely together — it is a practice as injurious as it is common . Let
them always be placed at such distance, that the rays of the sun may be
freely admitted through the foliage.

FORCING PEACHES.

The directions given for the peach-house last month having been
attended to, the trees should be in flower about the end of the first week
of this month. The temperature should now be kept as steady as possible
at 55° during the night; and air should be admitted as freely as the state
of the weather will permit during the day, and especially when the temper-
ature may exceed 60" from sun-heat, in order to strengthen the blossoms
and ensure their setting. When these begin to expand, the syringing
should be discontinued until the fruit is set; but the borders and flues
should be regularly sprinkled with water every night; as it is of the
greatest importance to the health of the trees, and the success of the crop,

Fk^] appendix.

060

particularly at this time, to preserve the atmosphere fresh and ir,n,« A =
soon as the fruit is set, let the engine or syringe be a^ain anrlf ',
softly, for a few days, but with more fori by de^toT ~S
breeding ot the red spider, of all others the most troub esome ■ insect t
almost all sorts of forced plants. If the green fly malc^t appear^ £
the house be fumigated with tobacco. This, however, should not be done
while the trees are m flower. The most expeditious method of llmgl
house with tobacco smoke is by a flower pot of convenient size, containing
a smal piece of burning charcoal at bottom, filled with tobacco; havin* I
small hole in the side near to the bottom, to which to apply a pa r of smaE
bellows; and covered with a little damp moss, to which water should be
applied from time to time, to keep the materials from burning too rapidly
By his means one person will fill an ordinary sized house quite full of
smoke ,n a few minutes. We may add, that we have never found i
necessary to repeat this more than once the same season

> 7^1 T?S, 1&r/e 35 garden Peas' the tre<* should be re»u-

arly disbudded ; and if the fruit have set abundantly, it should be partially
thinned. See directions for disbudding wall trees in April or May.

FORCING CHERRIES.

One of the greatest difficulties in forcing cherries, is their aptitude to
shed their blossoms without setting their fruit. This generally proceeds
from weakness in the parts of fructification ; and can be prevented only by
giving as much air as possible, and by the proper regulation of the tem-
perature while the trees are in blossom and until the fruit is set

At this time, the temperature should not be allowed to exceed 52" dur-
ing the night. In severe weather, it will be safe to reduce it a few
degrees lower We may add-though the observation is more applicable
to March—that in strong sunshine it is advisable to shade the plants
slightly an hour or two in the hottest part of the day. This observation is
founded on the experience that, in seasons of strong sunshine, cherries set
their fruit more freely on walls with an eastern or western, than with a
southern exposure In any circumstances, the temperature, from the effects
of sun-heat should seldom be allowed to exceed 60° ; and air should be freely
admitted when it exceeds 55". But care must be taken not to admit too strong
a current of cold cutting wind, particularly when the trees are in flower
Nothing is more conducive to the health of the trees, and the free setting of
their fruit, than a iresh moist atmosphere, and a free circulation of fresh air
VV hen the trees come into flower, syringing must be discontinued until the
fruit is set But let the borders and flues be sprinkled with water every
night, and let the trees be regularly but moderately supplied, till the fruit
is set ; and even then let them be cautiously supplied until the fruit is
stoned. _ They should then have abundant supplies, and if occasionally with
the drainings of dunghills, so much the better. When the fruit is set let
the syringe or engine be frequently applied in order to destroy the red
spider If the green fly make its appearance, it is easily destroyed by
fumigations of tobacco. The trees are also often annoyed with the cater-
pillar When this appears, let the affected parts be syringed with a solu-
tion of tobacco juice. This will be a certain cure, unless when they are
so rolled up into the leaves that it cannot reach them; in which case let
such leaves be immediately picked off. The trees which are forced m

666

APPENDIX.

[Mae.

puts, as we believe is generally the case, will seldom require pruning.
But when planted in the borders after the usual manner of peaches, they
will require to be disbudded in a similar manner, when the fruit is set.
When the fruit is fully stoned, the temperature may be gradually increased
to 65°, or even to 70". if it is desirable to have it ready as early as
possible.

MARCH.

NURSING AND SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

The treatment of nursing and succession pine plants at this time being
so similar, we shall take them both under one head. If the weather, in
the end of last month, has been unfavourable for renewing the tan beds and
shifting the plants, or if it has been thought rather early to do so, we would
advise it to be done as early as convenient this month, according to the
directions given for last month. Attention must be paid to the tempera-
ture, keeping both divisions as steadily as possible about the same degrees
as last month, or rather increasing as the weather improves and the season
advances. Air must be freely admitted as the state of the weather will
allow. As the season advances, the plants will require water in greater
abundance. Such of them as are just newly shifted, and particularly such
of them as have been disrooted, will not require much water until the
plants begin to grow, and their roots" have reached the sides of the pots.
When this has taken place, they should be regularly supplied in clear dry
weather, and in more or less abundance as the plants may appear to require.
In clear weather it is very desirable to syringe them occasionally over head
to refresh their foliage and to keep them clear of dust.

FRUITING PINE PLANTS.

The plants occupying this department having been regulated as directed
last month, the principal things to be now attended to are the temperature
and the regular supply of the roots with water and nourishment. The
temperature of the house should be gradually raised to 70° or 75", allowing
it, from the effects of sun-heat, to rise to 80" or 85°, for two or three
hours, about the middle of the day. We may here state a general obser-
vation of some importance, that from this time during the growing season,
it will greatly brace and invigorate the plants, to allow the temperature to
fall a few degrees below the fire-heat medium by the morning. We may
add a caution applicable to all the departments of forcing during the spring
months, that in severe weather it will be advisable to allow the tempera-
ture to fall a few degrees below the prescribed rate. In cloudy weather it
is sometimes desirable to increase the fire heat medium a few degrees for an
hour or two about the middle of the day, to facilitate a change of air —
fresh air being at all times most desirable, and to be admitted as freely
for a few hours every day as the state of the weather will allow. The flues
and paths of the house should be abundantly sprinkled with water every
night, in order to have a fresh humid atmosphere, which is particularly
congenial to the nature of the pines. In clear weather let them be occa-
sionally syringed over head when shut up in the afternoon.

Aphil.]

APPENDIX.

667

As the plants proceed in growth, and in the formation of their fruit, they
may sometimes have additional nourishment supplied to their roots by
forming a ring of turf round the margin of the pots, and filling it up with
rich mould, adding a top dressing of sheep, or other rich dung. This top
dressing will encourage the emission of the roots from the bottom of the
stems. Besides the regular supply of water the roots should be occasion-
ally watered with liquid manure.

FORCING VINES.

If success has attended the management of this department, the fruit
Should be set about the middle of this month. The temperature should
be continued with regularity about 75", and allowed to rise to 80° or 8£fi
with sun-heat. In our opinion, an advantageous mode of regulating the tem-
perature from this time is, to shut up the house early in the afternoon, so
that the heat may attain a maximum of 95"; and to manage the fire-heat
so that it may fall to 65° by the morning. Air should be freely admitted
everyday, being given and taken away by degrees. When the fruit is set, let
the engine be freely applied twice or thrice a week, or even every night when
the house is shut up, if the weather is clear. Let the flues and borders be
regularly sprinkled with water. Let the roots be regularly supplied with
water, and occasionally with liquid manure. The directions given last
month for pinning and training should be duly attended to throughout this
month, to prevent all unnecessary waste of the strength of the vines by
shoots, which may not be necessary for a future crop, and which only tend to
shade and confusion. As the shoots reach their required length, let them
be stopped. Such as have been stopped, if vigorous, will shoot again.
The laterals should be allowed to run a few joints and then shortened to
one ; and so on as they push till they stop, which they will generally do
before the fruit begins to colour. When the proper shoots have ripened
nearly to the extremity, the lateral shoots may be cut off at one joint above
the originally shortened part.

FORCING PEACHES.

The temperature should be kept as regular as possible at 55°, allowing
an advance from sun-heat of 5° or 10° about the middle of the day. Air
should be admitted freely at every opportunity. This at all times is par-
ticularly necessary to peaches, as from their habits they are impatient of
confinement, and as the shoots, if drawn up weak, will fall a prey to insects
and diseases more readily than any of the other hot-house plants. The
process of thinning the fruit should be continued until the stones be fairly
formed. The quantity removed should be in proportion to the apparent
want of vigour in the tree to bring them to maturity. The trees should
also be disbudded and deprived of all superfluous wood, that their vigour
may be preserved both for maturing the fruit and the wood left for future
crops. The shoots selected to remain should be neatly and regularly laid
in to the trellis as they advance, to prevent their being broken by syringing
or any other accident, care being had in tying them to give sufficient room
for expansion. Water should be supplied to the roots more liberally as the
fruit advances, but still with due caution, until the fruit be fairly stoned.
The syringe should be freely and unremittingly applied to refresh and

COS

AFPENDIX.

[April.

nourish the foliage, and keep down that dreaded enemy the red spider.
Should the green fly make its appearance, fumigate with tobacco as directed
for last month.

FORCING CHERRIES.

Continue the regular supplies of air and water directed for last month,
after the stoning of the fruit. As the fruit approaches maturity, however,
the supplies of water are to be gradually reduced ; and the flavour of the
fruit will be enhanced by admitting a portion of air during the night.

APRIL.

NURSING AND SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

These having been regulated as directed for February arid March,
should now be growing rapidly. In clear weather they will require to be
regularly supplied with water at the roots. They should also be occa-
sionally syringed over head, when shut up in the evening, to refresh their
foliage, and keep them clear of dust. The temperature may now be
gradually increased to 70" or 75°, and allowed to exceed that 1 0° or 1 5"
from sun-heat during the day. Air should be freely admitted according
to the state of the weather. The most of the plants having been shifted
as directed for February and last month, will not require to be shifted again
before the beginning of May. Only such as have not been ready then,
may now require to be shifted. If the bed have been properly pre-
pared with fresh tan for the plants, when shifted, it should supply a genial
heat to their roots till they are again ready for shifting. But in case of
the heat declining much before they are ready for shifting, it may often
be considerably augmented by carefully introducing a top-dressing of fresh
tan over the surface of the bed among the pots.

FRUITING PINE PLANTS.

Water should be plentifully administered to the roots every second or
third day, in order to swell off the fruit to a good size. Liquid manure
should be occasionally substituted for the water, as serving the purpose
both of watering and nourishment. Or, where the strength of the top-
dressing recommended for last month, may appear exhausted, a coating oi
dung may be applied to the surface of the pots, to be washed down by the
regular waterings. Nourishment is particularly necessary at this period,
for the support not only of the fruit, but of the suckers which it may be
desirable to leave for plants. They will now be fast forming, and will
make rapid progress when formed.

Such of the suckers as are emitted from the roots, should be destroyed,
as making bad plants, from their aptitude to strike into fruit prematurely.
The suckers, denominated gills, which sometimes appear upon the foot-
stalks of certain varieties, should also be destroyed as useless. Also, of the
suckers of the stem, only one or two should be spared, unless when the
number of plants is a greater object than the excellence of the fruit.

Apia.]

APPENDVX.

609

On the debated question whether crowns or suckers are best for plants,
tve may state that crowns make the handsomest and surest bearing plants ;
but Tickers are generally to be preferred for strength.

FORCING VINES.

The temperature should be continued as regularly as possible at the
same degree as recommended for last month, but allowed from sun-heat
during the day to exceed the fire-heat medium 5° or 10°. When the ber-
ries have reached the size of garden peas, the operation of thinning and of
tying up the shoulders of such bunches as require it, should not be neglect-
ed. This is of the utmost consequence not only to the free swelling of the
berries, but to their excellence in every respect.

Tie up the required shoulders with fresh matting. Fix one end of this
about one-third from the extremity of the shoulder, or where the shoulder
will be most equally balanced — introducing a split of wood longitudinally
under the shoulder, to diffuse the pressure in case the shoulder be very
heavy. Raise the shoulder as far as required, and tie the other end of the
matting to the wires or shoots of the vines. To avoid confusion from tying,
and to save trouble, the under tiers of shoulders and the shoulders of mode-
rate sized bunches may be extended and kept up by the insertion of slender
splits of wood, having notches at each end, in which two opposite shoulders
may rest.

Then, with a pair of proper grape scissors, cut out the most immature
of the berries, and also such a quantity of the more perfect of them, as will
allow the remainder full scope to expand. The operation may be completed
at two different periods — the number of berries to be cut out must de-
pend upon the nature of the vines, the number of bunches upon them,
and the size that the berries attain when fully matured. Those which set
their fruit thickly — those which produce berries of a large size — and those
which have a considerable abundance of bunches, will require to be freely
thinned, both in the berries, and, particularly in case of the abundance of
bunches, by the entire removal of many of these. The musket, the tokay,
and sweetwater, will not generally require so much thinning as some of
the other sorts. But such compact growing sorts as the Hamburgh,
.should be now freely thinned. In general, if fine fruit is the object, the
great danger is on the side of thinning too little. For our own part, we
have never had occasion to regret having thinned at least one-third of both
bunches and berries — but, often, that we had not thinned them more. Of
course, it will be understood that in the thinning here directed, it should
be the finest of the bunches and berries which are spared.

In clear weather water should now be abundantly supplied both to the
roots, and also over the leaves by means of the syringe. This will mate-
-ially forward the swelling of the fruit, and invigorate the vines. When
the weather, however, is damp, so as not to cany off the moisture during
the day, the supplies of water should be regulated so as to avoid the danger
of mildew.

FORCING PEACHES. '

The temperature should be kept about 55°, or gradually raised so as to
reach 60" by the time that the fruit shall be completely stoned. After that
all danger is over, provided that the trees be in a healthy state.

670

APPENDIX.

[May,

The final thinning of the fruit should then be proceeded with. Where
fine fruit is an object, it should be thinned upon healthy trees, to the dis-
tance often or twelve inches apart; but when the trees are rather weak,
the quantity left should be proportionably less. Where particular portions
of a tree may seem weakly, the fruit should be thinned with equally
unsparing hand ; it being exceedingly bad management to allow any portion
of a tree to be outstripped and absorbed by the other parts.

Water should now be much more abundantly supplied than hitherto,
especially at the roots. The syringe should also bo frequently applied over
the leaves in the morning or evening. Let this be done with considerable
force, so as to displace any insects that may attempt a settlement.

The priming and training in of the young shoots should be continued as
directed for last month, and all water shoots removed, and laterals, unless
where necessary to fill up vacancies.

MAY.

NURSING PINE PLANTS.

These should now be growing rapidly, and by the first or second week
of the month will require to be shifted. Particular atcention should be
paid to this. To shift them either sooner or later than they require, will
tend materially to stunt their growth. It is therefore of the utmost conse-
quence to know exactly the proper time for shifting them. This may be
known by examining the appearance of the roots. Just when these appear
to have extended their wreaths sufficiently round the sides of the pot, and
have begun to show the germs of lateral fibres, and before these fibres have
made any progress, is the proper time for shifting.

By this time the tan in the pits will have subsided considerably, and the
heat having declined, will require to be augmented by a fresh supply of
tan. Choose a fine day, and let the plants be carefully removed out of the
pits or frames, and tied up, if thought necessary for the preservation of the
leaves, as directed on a former occasion. Let the pit be turned over from
the bottom, and such a quantity of fresh tan added as may be deemed
necessary to ensure a brisk bottom heat. If the old tan is very much
decayed, let it be sifted, and the small decayed portion removed to the
compost heap; let the remainder be carefully mixed with the necessary
quantity of fresh tan, reserving a portion of the decayed for the surface,
in which to replunge the pots.

Let the plants be carefully shifted into the next larger sized pots. As
observed before, well managed plants will generally all require shifting
at the same time. It sometimes happens, however, that a few may not
require it ; or even that a few may be so weak and sickly as to require
to have their balls reduced and their roots trimmed, and to be put into
smaller sized pots.

In preparing the plants for potting, turn them carefully out of their pots.
Remove any small suckers that may be forming at their roots, and any
small decayed leaves near the roots. This will allow them to push out
vigorous new roots. Examine the roots, cut out any that are decayed, and
disentangle those a little which appear matted round the bottom of their

May.i

APPENDIX.

671

balls. Let the pots be properly drained as directed on a former occasion.
Put in a little mould, over which place the plant in the pot. Fill up round
the ball, giving the pot a gentle beat on the potting-board, and carefully
stirring down the mould with a piece of thin lath. Press it down rather
closely with the fingers, and dress the surface neatly off a little below the
margin of the pot, to admit the necessary supplies of water. Give a little
water to settle the mould about the roots.

The pit having been prepared, let the plants be carefully arranged accord-
ing to their size, and replunged. It is desirable that the tan should be
raised so that the plants when plunged, may stand within a few inches of
the glass ; as . there is no danger of pines being drawn by keeping up a
strong heat, if they are not too closely crowded, or too far from the glass.
Attention to this is particularly necessary, both in regard to nursing and
succession plants.

As a brisk bottom heat is essentially necessary, we would advise the
pots to be plunged at this time only one half or at most two thirds of their
depth. A piece of plain tile or slate under each pot, will greatly protect
the bottoms of the pots from an extreme of heat, while it will also make
the pots stand level in the bed. To guard against excess of bottom heat,
watch sticks should always be placed in the pits or frames, and frequently
consulted.

The plants being plunged, and the tan neatly done up about them, let
them have a sprinkling of water with the syringe overhead. Let the
pit or house be kept a little closer for two or three days till the bottom heat
comes up.

Towards the end of the month, if the weather is mild, fire heat should
be gradually given up. The temperature however should not be less during
the night than from 70° to 75"; and during the day, from the effects of sun
heat, it may with safety be allowed to range from 100° to 110". In clear
weather the plants will now require abundant supplies of water ; occasionally
overhead. Air must be freely admitted every fine day, being given and
taken away by degrees.

Any crowns or suckers which have not yet been potted, may now be
potted ; being previously trimmed of their straggling roots. It is desirable
that a frame should be prepared for these, and for any small weakly plants
of the above. A convenient sized frame is at once the best receptacle for
these, and will relieve the more advanced plants in the principal pits.

After shifting, and especially after potting plants for the fust time, we
would recommend them to be s}iaded from strong sunshine for a few days.

SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

These being nearly of the same description as the nursing plants, will
require nearly the same routine of management. The plants will require to
be shifted, and the bottom heat augmented, by turning up the beds, sifting
and removing a portion of the decayed tan, if necessary, and by adding a
quantity of fresh tan sufficient to ensure a brisk bottom heat.

The temperature, during the night, should be about 70", and may exceed
this from the effects of sun heat during the day, 10" or 15°. Towards
the end of the month, if the weather be fine, fire heat may be gradually
dispensed with.

672

APPENDIX

[May

Regular supplies of air and water should be given as required from the
state of the weather, 8cc.

FRUITING PINE PLANTS.

If the directions in February have been attended to, and the bark-bed
in this department properly made up with fresh tan, or with what we de-
scribed as preferable both for retaining the heat and affording genial nour-
ishment, viz., well fermented leaves, there will be now no necessity for
renewing the bed. As the roots will now be extending themselves con-
siderably in the bed, it must prove a serious injury to the plants to take
them up; and this in proportion to the forwardness of the fruit. It is
therefore of the utmost consequence to have provided sufficient resources
of bottom heat in the month of February, so that a due heat may be kept
op till the fruit is matured, by a top-dressing at this season of well fer-
mented fresh tan. As the bed will by this time have sunk considerably,
and the pots, heightened by a rhind of turf as directed in March, will be
standing some inches above the level of the bed, the top-dressing may
require to be of the thickness of a foot or more. Having carefully raked
off an inch or two of the decayed surface of the bed, particularly round the
sides where it is most decayed, let the top-dressing be applied so as not to
injure the plants. It may be raised a little above the margins of the pots,
keeping it clear however of the surface of the pots, by casing it neatly
round their margins.

If through improvidence there do not remain sufficient resources ol
bottom heat, the least of two evils must be to remove the plants and renew
the bed. Let tliis be done as directed on other occasions, only with espe-
cial care to injure the roots and plants as little as possible. Such plants as
have their fruit nearly swelled, should be supported with sticks, to prevent
the footstalks being damaged.

If any of the plants appear sickly, and the fruit not more than half
swelled, it will be proper to shift them either into pots of the same size ;
or, if their roots be few and diseased, into smaller pots, their balls being
reduced, their roots disentangled, and decayed ones removed. This, though
it must retard the ripening of the fruit for a season, will promote its ulti-
mate perfection.

After the top-dressing, or whatever other change may be necessary,
rem'"'« the decayed leaves from the plants. Relieve them also of all the
suckers u^i one or two of the best formed. This is particularly to be
attended to where the quantity of plants is not preferred to their quality,
and to the quality of the fruit.

When the house is regulated and cleaned, let the plants be watered at
their roots, and profusely syringed overhead to cleanse and refresh them.
Those showing fruit in blossom, and swelling their fruit should be liberally
supplied with water every third or fourth day. But from the time that
any are colouring to ripen, the watering of such should be reduced by
degrees, till it be entirely withheld some time before ripening. This is
necessary to enstrre the richness and flavour of the fruit.

Towards the end of the month, if the weather is fine, fire heat may be
gradually dispensed with. At this time the temperature should be about
75° during the night; during the day it may range without danger from
that to 100°. Air must be freely admitted on all occasions as the state

June] appendix. g7g

fl^rfto.'rS? mit' ™ " abS°'Utely "eCeSSary t0 Mha"ce

The maturity of the fruit is indicated by a diffusive frag-ance with a
change in the tolour ol the fruit ; most sorts becoming yell, w or straw
coloured, others dark green or yellowish tinged with greei The irii't
should be cut l-efore it ft dead ripe, otherwise the spirit of fchu flavour- will
be dissipated. In cuttii g, a considerable portion of the fruit -stalk should
Me left attached to the fruit, as also the crown adhering to the top

FORCING GRAP1 S.

Tire crop will now be swelling off. The temperature should be conti-
nued , egularly at from 70" to 75°. With a free circulation of air, it may
be alltwed to rise from the effects of sun heat 10° or 15°.

In clear weather, syringing should be continued occasionally till the
fruit begins to change colour; and especially if there is any appearance of
red spider Should the spider appear after syringing is discontinued, the
flues may be washed with a solution of lime and sulphur.

In very dry weather, it is .advisable to mulch the outside borders with a
little short grass ; to be removed when the fruit is approaching to maturity
siiould the weather not continue excessively dry. '

Towards the end of the month the fruit should be beginning to change
colour. Syringing must then be discontinued. . Watering the borders shouTd
also be gradually discontinued as the fruit approaches to maturity.

During this time, it is our practice to leave a small portion of air at the
top of the house during the night. This tends to dry the atmosphere to
allow a higher temperature, and so to enhance the flavour of the fruit

At this time priming should also he attended to. Any of the la'tcal
shoots that may require it should be shortened back, and such of the leaves
as may '.e oversnading the fruit should be shed aside, that the fruit mai
enjoy as much as possible of light, air, and nourishment. We reprobate
however, the practice adopted by some, of thinning the leaves It is him'

po-ea ^ °nCe t0 frUit' 1111(1 l° VV0°d retained for speeding pur-

I'ORCING PKACHES.

Tim fruit should now be approaching maturity. The principal thing t«
be attend )d to, is the admission of sun and air. It is well known that
peaches r pened on the open wall, uxcel those ripened in the hot-house in
colour and flavour: It seems therefore of essential importance that the
fruit should now be exposed to the free a. tion of the sun and air. To allow
such full exposure, the shoots which may appeal- too rampant for the equa.
diffusion of the sap, and as many others as can be spared, should be remov-
ed. The leaves should be pushed aside from the fruit, or even a few o?
them cut off, if necessary; only leaving the lower part of them to mature
the buds \i their base. The sashes shou.d also be drawn down as much a?
possible i very fine day.

.Care mst be taken, however, to cover up the house at the approach of
-am; as wet would prove highly injurious at this time. The syringina
and wateiing'of tan borders should be gradually discontinued, and alto-
gether withheld for some time before the fruit is matured.

E1

674

APPENDIX.

[June-

When the fruit is ripe, nets may be suspended bolow the trees for such
of the fruit as may happen to fall. It should be observed, however, that
for the sake of the flavour, the fruit should be pulled belore it becomes
dead ripe. It is easily ascertained by the hand, when it is fit for pulling.

When pulled, it should be carried to the fruit room, and carefully placed
on a clean shelf, unless immediately wanted for use.

JUNE.

NURSING AND SUCCESSION PINES.

In so far as regards temperature, air, and water, these compartments
will require nearly the same routine of management as directed for last
month. In the nursing department, the temperature may bo allowed to
range, with sun heat, from 110° to 120°.

The few plants which may not have required shifting then, should now
be shifted according to the directions then given. Any crowns or suckeis
which have been stuck to strike in the front of the pits or frames, may now
lie taken up, trimmed of their straggling roots, potted, and placed in the
frame appointed last month for those of a similar description. The plants
thus shifted, or potted, should be shaded a few days from strong sunshine.

In the frame, or frames, the proper temperature should be kept up by
means of linings, and by renewing the beds when necessary. Rank steam
from the linings or beds, as tending to rot the plants at the heart, should
be carefully guarded against. This may be effected by a sufficient cover-
ing of well reduced tan, in which to plunge the pots. To guard against
extremes of bottom heat, watch sticks should always be placed in both
frames and pits, and frequently examined. This is particularly necessary
when the beds are renewed, or fresh linings are applied.

By the continuance of such treatment, the plants in the frames will be
ready by autumn to bo shifted into the principal nursing and succession
pits, when the plants at present in these pits, shall be removed to the suc-
cession and fruiting pits.

FRUITING PINES.

The routine of management prescribed for last month, should be follow-
ed out till the fruit is matured. Air should be freely admitted, water gra-
dually withheld, and the fires gradually discontinued, if the temperature
can be kept high enough without them.

As the fruit is cut for use, the plants may remain undisturbed, each of
them, so long as necessaiy, to forward its respective suckers. Towards
the end of this month some of the suckers may be ready for removal. Such
as appear of a brown colour at bottom, and are foimd to separate freely
from the plants, may be carefully taken off. Their removal will enable
the plants to bring the remainder to greater perfection. Being removed,
and laid on a shelf for a few days, they should be potted into forty-
eight sized pots, or such as their size may require, then planted in a frame
according to directions already given for nursing plants. Here they will
be ready by the end of August for being shifted and placed in nursing pita.

June.]

APPENDIX.

67>

With such accommodations, and with proper management afterwards, they
may be expected to mature their fruit by August or September the fol-
lowing season. Where such accommodations cannot immediately be had for
them, they may be left on the plants, or laid past till arrangements can
be made for them.

The crowns, being returned after the fruit has been used, should belaid
past for some days to dry and harden at their bottoms ; then planted to strike
in the frames or in the front of the nursing pit.

As they become divested of their suckers, the old plants should be
thrown out, to make room for any that may have been detained in the suc-
cession pit, for want of room in the fruiting pit, and for any that may have
started prematurely, or that have been started for the purpose of fruiting
late in autumn.

Till a general regulation takes place in autumn, or when the state of
the crop may determine, the plants yet remaining, along with those thus
introduced into the fruiting pit, should be managed according to the direc-
tions already given for this department.

FORCING VINES* .

The crop should be fully ripe by about the middle of this month. After
ripe, the fruit, particularly the thicker skinned sorts, may, if desirable,
be advantageously preserved for some weeks upon the vines, without much
injury to the trees. During tills time, it is of chief importance to keep
the atmosphere dry and cool, and to allow an abundant circulation of air.
In damp weather, it will even be necessary to dry the atmosphere by
means of slight fires, and by giving sufficient air for evaporation, and for
the reduction of the temperature. When desirable to clear off what remains
of the fruit, it may, if necessary, be preserved for a short time further, by
being suspended in a cool, dry, and well aired fruit room. Wh'ile preserved
either on the vines or in the fruit room, let all the berries showing symp-
toms of decay, be immediately removed to prevent contamination.

When the fruit is cleared off, it is of the utmost importance to afford
every advantage for ripening the shoots to be retained for succeeding pur-
poses. There is little danger of these being over-ripened.

In vines which have been forced so early, the temperature should be
sufficient without the aid of artificial heat. But as much as possible ef
room, light, and air, should be afforded, by the removal of such shoot" as
have produced fruit this season, and are not absolutely necessary for suc-
ceeding purposes. Also any lateral shoots which have overgrown their
proper limits should be shortened back.

The engine should be occasionally applied to remove dust, decayed
leaves, and vermin, and to refresh and nourish the foliage and wood. In
dry weather, the borders will also require to be moderately refreshed with
water.

The vineries coming on in succession, should Ik; managed according to
the directions already given, making a proper allowance for the season.

FORCING PEACHES.

The crop in this compartment will probably have been disposed of liy
tlie end of this month.

gyg . appendix. [July, i

Tlie trees should titer, be refreshed both at their rootsand warhead with
the syringe; applying it overhead with considerable orce for the suppres-
sion of red spider .

The lights should be tlirown open, or entirely removed, if wanted io>
tipenin" late peaches or vines on lined walls, or for any other purpose.

The "shoots will be sufficiently matured for fruiting purposes next sea-
son, without further protection or care. Only such second growths as may
arise from the heat of the season, and may not ripen properly, should be
cut off, unless filling some vacancy of the tree.

The peach houses which are coming on in succession, should be manag-
ed according to the directions already given, making a proper allowance
for the season.

JULY.

NURSING PINE PLANTS.

The directions fir last month and tire preceding naving been attended
to, these plants should be gi owing vigorously, and should require to be
slu.'ted again about the middle of this month. Let this be done carefully,
according to the directions formeny given; and let the tan be turned
over, ana, if necessary, the bottom-heat augmented by a portion , of new
tan. The plants in the frames should also be attended to, and shifted
when necessary. Towards the end of the month, the temperature may be
gradually decreased a few degrees by abundant admission of air. Water
should be regularly supplied, in quantities according to the state of the
weather; observing to water rather sparingly for a few days after shifting.

SUCCESSION FINE PLANTS.

Such of these as were not disrooted in the spring; hein? intended to be
fruited in autumn, should now be generally showing their fruit. It is
desirable ihat these should be shifted before the fruit comes into flower.
Let this be carefully managed, according to the directions already given
for fruiting plants. If well managed, these plants will mature their fruit
in September or October, of the finest quality, if not of the largest size.

The general stock of succession plants should also be attended to. The
shifting of these is often delayed till room is made for them by the removal
••.if Ihe fruiting plants; and such delay is certainly very desirable, where it
;an be had with safety. But we would by no means advise it after the
plants are fully requiring shifting, as nothing is more calculated to throw
them into premature fruit, an event, at this season, next to their uttei
ruin. Let the temperature in this department lie gradually decreased a
few degrees towards the end of the month, by abundant admission of sJx
Let water be supplied as the state of the weather and plants m?y require.

FRUITING PINE PLANTS

Sho I'n retreated according to toe directions already given, till the
general crip is cut, lrhsu a general arrangement of the plants must takf placa.

APPENDIX*

677

AUGUST.

FRUITING PiNJ? PLANTS.

Tim geiieral crop may be expected to be cut by the. end of Oiis month,
when a general arrangement of all the pine plants must take place.

It is desirable that this arrangement should not be later than the last
week of this, or the first week of the following month. It should com-
mence with the removal of the plants which have produced their fruit,
/iieir suckers should be carefully taken off, pared smooth at bottom, and
stripped of any small decayed leaves, to favour the emission of roots.
Along with the crowns, which will require to be dried for a few days, the
suckers may be also laid past in a dry apartment, till the other arrange-
ments are effected, and a suitable pit or frame is prepared for their recep-
tion. After the removal of these, let the bark or leaf-beds be turned up
i'rom the bottom, the exhausted part removed, and the remainder mixed
up with a sufficient quantity of fresh tan or leaves, to raise the bed to the
proper height, and to ensure a genial bottom-heat ; reserving a sufficient
quantity of half-decayed matter on the surface, in which to replunge the
pots. If principally filled with leaves, let the beds be well trqd uown, to
provide against their subsiding or overheating. The flues should alow be
cleaned, and any other necessary repairs effected.

These operations being completed, let the requisite number of plants be
selected from the succession pits, and, having been shifted as already
directed, let them be arranged in the fruiting-pits according to their size,
and carefully plunged about two-thirds of their depth, making allowance
for a future top-dressing of fresh tan when the heat begins to decline.
The plants having been plunged, and the house regulated and neatly done
the plants should have a gentle watering overhead with the syringe, to
refresh them, and clear the foliage of dust. When the heat of the bed has
come up, let them have regular but moderate supplies of water. Let a
genial and steady heat be supplied, the temperature ranging from S5" to
70" during the night, and from 75° to 80" dming the day ; abundance of
air being admitted when it exceeds 85".

SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

The succession pits should also be put in order, by turning up the bark
beds, adding the necessary supplies of fresh tan, cleaning the fines, and by
other necessary repairs. The requisite number of the strongest plants
should be brought from the nursing pits. The most of them, as probably
-equiring it, should be carefully shifted, arranged according to their s;ze,
wd plunged. When piunged, let them he gently watered at tneir rorts.
When the heat has come up, and the plants have begun to grow aeain. ii'-t
hem have regular but moderate supplies of water, as tiio iiate ot the
v.-flEther and of the plants may require. The temperature should now be
gradually allowed to decrease witc the decline of the season, so that by the
end of the month it may stana about 65" during the night; abundance oi
bit to be admitted when, through the effects of sun heat, it exceeds 80°.

C7R

APPENDIX.

[Aug.

NURSING PINE PLANTS.

The crowns and suckers in the nursing pits and frames should also be
regulated. Such as have been potted in the preceding mouths should be
carefully shifted. Of such as have been planted into the tan in front of
the pits or frames, the strongest should be potted. Their roots being
cut off within half an inch or so of their stems, a little of the decayed or
hard part of the bottom of their stems being pared off, and any small de-
cayed leaves removed, they should be potted in pots, according to their
size, in light vegetable mould, and arranged and plunged.

For the general stock of crowns and suckers lately taken from the old
stock of fruiting plants, and laid past to dry, let a small pit or frame be
carefully prepared with fresh tan. If a frame, it may be supported upon
posts to the required height; and the tan may be supported by a lining of
dung round the outside. A few inches of decayed tan being laid on the
surface of the frame, let the crowns and suckers be arranged, and inserted
at from five to eight inches asunder, according to their size. In such a
pit or frame they may remain, without potting, till the end of February or
iieginning of March. We greatly prefer keeping them in this way
through the winter, as a small division of an ordinary sized pit or melon
frame will accommodate a great-number of plants, and as the temperature
can easily be kept up by linings of fresh dung, and by carefully covering
up at night in severe weather.

Indeed, for both nursing and succession plants, we prefer pits or frames
in which the temperature may be kept up chiefly by means of tan and
dung. The plants will be less infested by insects than if grown principally
by the aid of fire heat.

The spirit of these remarks may even be extended to the fruiting plants.
For these, where it is not an object to force vines or other fruits in the
pine pit, we prefer small flued pits without paths. Such a pit, properly
constructed, and ten feet wide within, will accommodate as many plants
as a pathed house of fifteen feet width. A single flue passing round the
front and ends, will be quite sufficient to keep up the required temperature
at all seasons of the year. In general, only a slight fire will be require
during night, except in very severe weather. One-half the fuel will be
saved. Above all, the pines will give indications of a congenial climate.

The general stock of crowns and suckers, being planted as directed,
should be shaded in clear weather during the hottest part of the day, til!
they strike root. They will then occasionally require moderate supplies ol
water. The temperature, towards the end of the month, should be from
65° to 70" ; air to be freely admitted when it exceeds 80° from the eliects
of sun heat,

SEPTEMBER.

NURSING PINES.

The directions for last month having been followed, let the linings be
occasionally turned up or renewed when necessary, to keep up the te«o-

Oct.]

APPENDIX.

679

perature to 65°. Let air be admitted freely when the temperature exceeds
80° from sun heat. Watering overhead should be gradually discontinued
as the season declines, and, in general, the supplies of water should be

gradually lessened. , . .

When the crowns and suckers planted m the tan begin to grow, air
should be admitted every fine day. These will seldom require much
water- only such as have been potted will require regular but moderate
supplies Towards the end of this month, and till the month of April,
these supplies should be given in the forenoon of the day. About the
«ame time, if severe weather set in, it may be necessary to commence
covering the pits or frames during the night, gradually increasing the
coverings as the season may require.

SUCCESSION PINES.

The directions for air, watering, and night-covering of the nursing
department, are applicable to this. The temperature should be rather
lower In flued pits, slight fires at night may be necessaiy towards the
end of the month in damp weather. In clear weather, the plants may still
be moderately syringed overhead.

FRUITING PINES.

The plants having been regulated as directed for last month, should
now be beginning to grow. The temperature, air, and watering should be
nearly the same as lor the succession department. Slight fires will be
necessary towards the end of the month in damp weather. The paths and
flues of the house should then be occasionally sprinkled with water, to
maintain a fresh and genial moisture during the night.

pf OCTOBER. -

GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF PINES.

The directions for the preceding mouth are nearly applicable to this.
The temperature should be a few degrees lower. Artificial heat should be
applied rather with a view to maintain the health and vigour of the plants,
than to promote their growth. ' , . .

In flued pits, night fires will be occasionally required at the beginning,
rceularly by the end of the month. In the pits or frames heated only by
tan and dung, greater care is necessary to regulate the temperature than
in flued pits; the cultivator in this case having less immediate control
over the materials by which the temperature is maintained. The watch
sticks kept in the beds must be frequently examined, and the linings care-
fully guarded from cold, rain, or wind, or otherwise managed as may be
necessary to prevent sudden changes of temperature

Air must now be freely admitted as the state of the weather will per-
mit and care must be taken to have it diffused equally through the pit or
frame Excepting after the plants are shifted, when they must Be kept

680

APPENDIX.

[Oct

dose and shaded for some time, a free circulation of air is always necessary
to plants confined in an artificial atmosphere.

Water, both at roots and overhead, though it is better to give it rather
frequently, should now be gradually diminished in quantity. The crowns
and suckers planted in the bark-bed should require littls or no vw-ter
during the winter months. During this period, indeed, it is preferable to
keep all the plants rather dry than otherwise.

Such of the succession and nursing plants as are likely to require shifting
before the spring, it will be advisable to shift by the middle of tliis month.
To shift such even rather prematurely at this time, is better than to incur
the necessity of doing so later in the season, it being of advantage to have
the pots in some measure replenished with roots, ere the plants fall into
what may be termed their dormant state during the dead of winter.

PRUNING VINES.

The directions for the early forced vinery in June and July havin»
been followed, the wood should now be thoroughly ripe ; and, towards the
wid of the month, the leaves will be falling into decay. The operation oi
pruning should be therefore commenced preparatory for next season. It
is of importance not to delay this operation later than is absolutely proper.
In healthy, sufficiently ripened wood, indeed, there is no danger of bleed-
ing, whensoever the pruning may be performed ; bleeding, in cur opinion,
generally proceeding either from unripened wood, or from a diseased state
of the roots in consequence of a damp subsoil. It is, however, of «reat
advantage to the vines to have as much time as possible for the healing of
the wounds, and for resting, previous to another crop.

In pruning and training, the great object aimed at, is to have all parts
of the house equally supplied with good bearing wood. Various modes
have been adopted for the same end— long pruning and short spin, hori-
zontal training, fan-form, and direct. It is perhaps not of essential
importance which of these modes be adopted, the success of vines depending
more upon the circumstances connected with the soil and atmosphere,
than upon the modes of pruning and training.

If, however, we may hazard an opinion derived from considerable
experience, the mode of pruning best fitted upon the whole for the equal
distribution and arrangement of sap and fruitfulness, is what may be
termed the intermediate spur method. And for the same end, we prefer
the mode of training from two horizontal main branches directly up the
roof, or, if the vines be planted on the back wall, directly up the trellis
Judiciously managed, the house may be furnished as speedily by this as
by any other method of training. At any rate, any disadvantage of
tediousness at the outset must be more than compensated by the equal
distribution of sap and fruitfulness. Another advantage of this method is

that the fewest number of stocks will suffice for any given space in a

house sixteen feet high, they should be planted at from eight to twelve feet
apart, according to their habit of growth— and thus will attain to some-
thing like maturity of size, the best state for fruitfulness. Should wrety
be desirable, it may be secured at pleasure by grafting, and at litke ur no
expense of wood or time. (See our method of Grafting. Hortimliura.
Transactions.

In proceeding at this time to the principal or winter pruning, some

1

Oct.] appendix. 081

consiiarauwi is necessary to retain enough "Dealing wood, and no more,
while removing from the bottom such of the leading shoots as have become
scanty of bearing wood near their base, to make way for succeeding young
wood, to keep the trees under perpetual renewal, to check the natural
propensity of the trees to shoot stronger towards the extremities, and to
secure a sufficiency of bearing wood at bottom. The shoots laid in during
dimmer for the purpose of replacing the old leading shoots intended .er
emoval, should be shortened more or less as the due distribution of beating
wood may require, juch of the lateral shoots as may not seem necessary
"or succeeding purposes, should be entirely removed. The strongest and
test formed being retained, should be shortened into one, two, three, or
four eyes, according to their several strengths, and the spaces requir-
ing to be furnished. In shortening shoots of whatever size, it is proper
to providi against danger or injury by cutting on the opposite side
of the last eye, one and. a half inch above it, and in a slanting direc-
tion. ; I . i ' !•

The priming being finished, let the loose outward bark be removed from
the older branches by rubbing with the hands. Let the trellis or wires be
cleared of all decayed leaves, pieces of old matting, &c. Let the stronger
branches, the trellis, and all the wood work of the house be carefu'J;,'
washed witfa water. Let the vines he washed with an infusion of scap
ind water. Not such a wash as that recommended by a certain living
uithor, who advises a lather of soft soap, of such " a thick consistency as
lot to run off the trees. when applied," mixed with a solution of sulphur
md tobacco f 'ice of " the consistence of thick paint." " This," he adds,
' will destroy any insects that may be alive or harbouring under the
tru-k." Certainly, we must admit, it will effect a complete destruction,
1 lot only of the insects, but. of all future harbour for them. It will not
1 equire to be twice repeated, as the author advises, ere it have effected
I he complete destruction of the tree. A wash of soft soap and tobacco
i lice, at the rate of a pound each, dissolved in four gallons of water. w.;,A
\ e sufficient for any good' purpose. Let this he carefully applied over
l very part of the vines with a brush

The i*oot! and tranches should now be laid in, regularly distributed,
Ejid tied to the trellis or wires ; allowing room in the ties for future
s veiling In the distribution of the wood, the older branches which is
his beer ecessary to retain, may have their more naked parts covered
«ith young shoots trained along them, by which they may be replaced on
a future occasion. .

Let the house be cleaned out, and the borders stirred up, to give the
•a hole an orderly appearance.

Where vines are grown in pins-houses, they should now be pruned, anrt
treated according to the above directions-

PiOVEMBER.

NURSING PINE PJLANTS,

For the crowns and suckers, planted into the tan, in a frame or small
■oil, the due temperature should be maintained by stirring up and renew.
* 2 f 2

682 APPENDIX. [Nor.

ing the linings when necessary, and by carefully covering up lit night in
severe weather.

Such of the plants as were potted in the end of August or beginning ol
September, and are occupying pits heated by flues or dung linings, will
require at this time to have the bark-beds turned up, and such a quantity
of fresh tan added as may be deemed necessary to ensure a gonial bottom
heat till the month of February. For this operation a fine day should be
chosen about the beginning or middle of the month. During the operation,
(he plants should be carefully removed, and placed in some convenient
shelter till the bed is again prepared for their reception. The pots should
then be arranged and carefully plunged about two-thirds of their depth :
to be afterwards, when the heat begins to decline, either plunged to the
full depth, or supplied with a top-dressing of tan, carefully introduced
among them, to their full depth, over the surface of the bed.

In fined pits, the plants will probably require a little water once a week.
In pits heated by tan or dung only, a little once in ten days or a fortnight
will probably be sufficient. The temperature should range from GO" to
85°. Fresh air should be admitted as freely as the state of the weather
will permit.

SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS.

This compartment will reauire a similar regulation to that in the
nursing pit. Tne watering also should t>e less frequent, and less in
quantity. If in flued pits, the foliage may still occasionally be slightly
syringed, and the humidity kept up by sprinkling the flues with water.
The temperature should be gradually reduced to CO" during the night,
allowing a few degrees of increase from sunshine. Air should be admitted
as freely as the state of the weather will permit.

FRUITING PINE PLANTS.

These having been shifted in the end of August or beginning of
September into pots of the size in which they are intended for the most
part to mature their fruit, the principal thing required at this time will be
the renewal of the bottom heat.

Fpr the greater convenience of handling the plants, and of preserving
their leaves from being broken or bruised as they are moved out of the pit,
the leaves should be carefully gathered up and gently tied together with a
strand of matting. A portion of the decayed matter being removed, let
the bed be carefully turned over from the bottom, and mixed up with such
a quantity of previously prepared fresh tan or leaves, as may be deemed
necessary to ensure a genia! bottom heat during the winter. The bed
being prepared, let the plants be carefully arranged and plunged, with a
piece of plain tile or slate under each pot. Let the pots be plunged about
two-thirds of their depth ; to be afterwards supplied with a top-dressing
of tan to their full height, when the heat begins to decline.

The temperature at this time should be 60° during the night, and 65'
with sunshine ; the object being rather to maintain the health and vigour
of the plants, than to excite them to grow. Air should be given as freely
as the state of the weather will permit. Give moderate supplies of water,
and let the paths and flues of the house be plentifully sprinkled. In

Nov.)

APPENDIX.

683

watering at this season, in any of the compartments, it is necessary to
raise the temperature of the water to not less than that of the house.

PRUNING PEACHES.

Since; in the peach, it is principally the young wood which produces
the Iruit and succeeding fruiting wood, the principal object in pruning must
be to secure and provide for a sufficient distribution of young wood
throughout every part of the tree.

If the summer-training has been duly attended to, the less pruning will
be required at this season. But it is peculiarly necessary to have an
annual removal at this season of all the torn, exhausted, or naked branches
that can be advantageously replaced by younger or better furnished wood.
Such an annual pruning will save the necessity of cutting too much at any
one period — a treatment peculiarly hurtful to the peach.

When a tree is in general over luxuriant, the pruning should be the
more sparing, and particularly the shoots retained should be the less
shortened. 'Die redundant sap will thus be exhausted, and the habit of
the tree corrected. An opposite treatment is required in opposite circum-
stances. Only when a tree of moderate or weakly growth in genera], is
rampant in particular parts, these parts should be completely cut out 'for
the more equal diffusion of the sap. All the shoots retained should be
shortened more or less according to their various strengths and situations,
to cause them to push out successive bearing wood at the requisite dis-
tances. They should always be shortened at a wood-bud ; otherwise the
fruit will fail, and the shoot prove useless, for want of a leading shoot to
draw the sap towards the extremity.

The pruning being finished, the trees and trellises should be washed
with the mixture recommended for the vines ; or, since the peach buds
are more susceptible of injury than the vine buds, a rather weaker solution
will sufiice. The younger shoots should be washed with great care ; laying
them in one hand, and, with a brush in the other, gently rubbing the
mixture twice or thrice along them upwards, so as not to injure the buds,
which will by this time be considerably swollen. The older shoots should
be well rubbed, upwards and downwards, to remove filth, soften the bark,
and destroy any seeds of vermin.

These operations performed, let the branches and shoots be arranged,
trained to the trellis at from eight to ten inches apart, according to their
strength, and tied up with strands of fresh matting, allowing room for the
shoots to swell.

The flues should then be cleaned, all necessary repairs made on the
house, and the borders supplied with protection and nourishment. Although
peaches on the open wall should not be highly manured, forced peaches
require a stronger nourishment. The way of administering this with
greatest safety to the roots, is that recommended for the vines. The
borders should be carefully forked up a few inches, so as not to injure the
roots, and watered with a quantity of liquid manure, sufficient to penetrate
to the depth of the roots. The outside borders, so far as the roots are sup-
posed to extend, having been similarly forked up, should have a top-
dressing of good fresh dung five or s'ix inches thick, and also a good
watering of liquid manure.

The lights having been replaced previous to these operations, should be

6S4

APPENDIX.

[Dfx.

managed so as rather to protect from injury during intense frost, than tc
hasten thu spelling of the buds, till this be desirable.

PRUNING CHERRIES.

As cherry trees that have been forced make but little wood, probably
little more pruning will be required than a moderate thinning of the
spurs, and the removal of any breastwood or water shoots produced since
the crop was gathered. The leading shoots will not require to be shortened,
except when necessary to induce new wood to fill up vacancies. When
shortened for this purpose near the bottom of the tree, they should be cut
pretty well in, to ensure their pushing with sufficient strength. When
near the extremities, it will be sufficient to shorten them one-third or one-
half.

Let the trees be washed, the flues cleaned, and the house repaired, as
recommended for the peaches.

DECEMBER.

GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF PINES.

The directions for the different compartments last month, should be
generally followed in tins. Water should be given merely as necessity
requires, during this, the dormant season. Air should be admitted on ai:
favourable occasions. The temperature should be kept steady at the re-
quired degree.

The pits heated by tan and dung only, will require particular attention.
The linings must be properly managed, to keep up the necessary tempera-
ture. The pits must be covered every night ; the mats being properly
disposed to favour the escape of rank steam. Unless the temperature is
rather low, the coverings should not be laid on too early in the afternoon,
and should be removed as soon after sunrise as may be consistent with
safety, that the plants may enjoy as much light as possible.

VINES.

The vine-houses and borders should now be carefully prepared.

The flues should be cleaned, and any other necessaiy repairs done to the
house. The borders should be slightly stirred up with a fork, a few inches
deep, to render the surface sufficiently porous ; then overlaid with a coating
of good fresh dung to the depth of six or eight inches. This, with liquid
manure, is the chief or only safe means of protecting the roots from frost,
and of supplying them with nourishment ; it being dangerous to the roots
to dig in the manure.

If the lights have been removed, they should be replaced previous to
these operations; and they should be managed so as to admit a constant
flircuktion of air, till near the time of commencing to force ; when they
must be shut every night, that the vines may be gradually prepared for
the application of artificial heat.

The late forced vines which have cot yet been pruned, should nov/ be

APPENDIX.

G85

pruned &"d trained according to directions in October. The vines winch
were then pruned and trained, and which it is intended to commence
forcing by the end of this month or beginning of January, should have
their stems duly protected and prepared.

When the stems of these proceed from the outside of the house, they
should be -wound round with a sufficient quantity of soft dry hay or ferns
to protect them from the severity of the weather. Stems inside the house
also, and a few feet of the larger branches, should be wound round with
moss. This is of considerable importance in early forcing ; and will con-
tribute greatly to the rising of the sap, and the strong breaking of the buds

INDEX.

A.

ACORNS, 178, 522.
Aloes, 435.

Anemones, 42, 167, 333,, 42S,
457, 554, 579.

Annuals, 16], 210, 213, 235, 286,
287, 329, 375.

Apple-tree, pruning in espaliers and
against walls, 23 ; in February, 89 ;
finish pruning, 158 ; in May, 271 ;
June, 323 ; September, 454 ; Oc-
tober, 488, 494 ; November, 542,
545 ; December, 579.

Apricots, 27, 155, 272, 322, 344,
540.

Aromatic plants, 415, 481.
Artichokes, Jerusalem, 152.
Artichokes, 22, 141, 368, 410, 533,
570.

Asparagus, 10, 07, 137, 140, 194;

May, 254; June, 317; August,

49 ; October 483 ; November, 533,

538 ; December, 570.
Auriculas, 40, 43, 101, 165, 221,

287, 343, 379, 423, 458, 504,

554, 579.

B.

Balm, of Gilead, 224.

Basil, 146, 320, 200.

Beans, January, 19; February, 81 ;
March, 142 ; April, 201 ; May, 26] ,
June, 317; October, 472, 484;
November, 528 ; December, 568.

Beet, February, 80; March, 141;
April, 193; June, 313; October,
536.

Biennials, 167; planting, propagat-
ing, and sowing, 291 ; transplant-
ing, Sc., 290, 552.

Blowing annuals early in a hot-
house, 101.

Borage, 83.

Borecole, 135, 195, 261, 315.

Broccoli, 131; April, 196; May,
260; June, 315: July, 357; Au-
gust, 403 ; September, 447 ; Octo-
ber, 479.

Budding, 327, 345, 374, 387, 395,

420, 434.
Buds, rubbing off useless, 208 ; new

budded trees, 278.
Bulbs, January, 43, 281 : reasons

for taking them up after flowering,

282 ; care of seedling, 288 ; June,

332; July, 380; August, 427;

October, 507, 557; December,

552.

Burnet, 80.

C.

Cabbage planting, sowing, and cul-
ture, January,16 ; transplanting for
seed, 17 ; February, 76 ; March,
131; May, 258 ; June, 3] 3 ; July,
357; August, 402; September,
447; October, 479; November,
532.

Capsicums, 149, 200, 253, 320.
Carnations, January, 41; February,

102; March, 165; April, 217;

May, 283 ; June, 335, 337 ; July,

6SS

INDEX.

376, 377; August, 425; Septem-
ber, 45S ; October, 504 ; Decem-
ber, 579.
Carrots, sowing for small supply, 1 3 ;
for general supply, 79, 13(5, 198;
May, 256 ; June, 313 ; July, 360 ;
August, 404 ; October, 486 ; No-
vember, 536, 53S; December,
567.

Cauliflowers, 15; care of them in
Febinary, 74; sowing seed, 75;
transplanting and sowing, March,
130; April, 196 ; May, 259, 260;
June, 312; July, 359; August,
405; September, 445; October,
477 ; November, 535; December,
564.

Celery, January, 18 ; February, 77;
March, 144; April, 197; May,
267; June, 309; July, 360; Au-
gust, 409 ; September, 44S ; Octo-
ber, 485 ; November, 531 ; Decem-
ber, 569.

Cherry-pruning, 24 ; finish pruning,
156 ; training, 157 ; stones, 434,
467, 494.

Chervil, 83, 145, 416, 434.

Chestnuts, 549.

Oluysanthemums, 165.

Gives, 148, 193.

Coleworts, 363, 414, 447.

Coriander, 83, 145.

Crocuses, January, 43.

Cucumbers in hotbeds under frames,
1, &c. ; sowing seed of, 2, 3; hot-
house, 58 ; sowing seed in February,
60, 66; care of them in March,
1 27 ; sowing seed, 12S ; makin g new
hotbeds, 129 ; under hand or bell
glasses,229 ; management in April,
187, 188; seed, 198; May, in
frames, 246 ; under glasses and oil-
paper Irames, 247 ; for pickle, 248 ;
June, 307, 308 ; July, 367 ; for
363 ; December, 590.

Currants, 33, 34, 91, 159; cuttings,
&c, 54 ; pruning, 496 ; Novem-
ber, 557 ; December, 577.

Cvciamens, 334.

D. .

Deciduous shrubs and plants, 169-
X77; 465, 511

E.

Edgings, January, 49: February,
103; March, 169; April, 229;
May, 293 ; June, 344 ; July, 381 ;
August, 437 ; September, 461 ; Oc-
tober, 519, 520 ; November, 557
558, 559.

Endive, 18, 263, 309, 358, 413,
449, 480, 531, 569.

Engine for watering the branches of
trees, 274.

Evergreens, list of, 620.

Evergreens, planting, 104, 225;
sowing, 178; propagating, 295;
planting, 464, 512, 517, 524.

' i*>; I.E.,, , .J : -

Fennel, 412.

Fig, January, 33 ; February, 91 ;
March, 153, 154; July, 372; Au-
gust, 420 ; November, 546.

Flowers, list of, 635.

Flowers to blow in a house, 44 ; ditto
to blow early in a hot-house, 44.

Flowering shrubs, pruning and
planting, January, 46 ; flowering
plants in a hot-house, 59; April,
226.

Forcing early flowers, 106; early

fruits, 96, 592.
Forest-trees, 49; list of, 621.
Frosts, protecting blossoms from,

208.

Fruit-garden, January, 23 ; Febru-
ary, 8S;'March, 153; April, 204;
May, 269 ; June 322 ; July, 371 ;
August, 418; September, 452!
October, 488 ; November, 539;
December, 574.

Fruit-trees, list of, 623.

INDEX.

689

G.

Geraniums, 182, oi>'t!.

Gooseberry-trees, 33. 3K, °l, 159;
cuttings, 54; October, ' 501 ; No-
vember, 547 ; December, 577, 578.

Gourds, 203, 250.

Grafting, 96; preparing for, 111;
general rules, 114; whip-grafting,
114; cleft-grafting, 115; crown-
grafting, 117; inarching, 118;
April, 209; new-grafting, 232,
233; management in June, 322,
323.

Greenhouse, January, 55 ; February,
120; March, 180; April, 234;
May, 297 ; June, 348 ; July, 390;
August, 434; September, 467;
October, 525; November, 561;
December, 585.

II.

Hamburgh parsley, S2, 258, 329.

Hardy annuals, 100, 215.

Haw-berries, 522.

Herbs, 83; July, 369, 370; Octo-
ber, 482.

Holly-berries, 522.

Horse-radish, 85. '

Hot-house plants, various kinds of,
122.

Hot-house, January, 56; February,

112; March, 184; April, 238;

May, 301 ; June, 355; July, 397;

August, 437; September, 469;

October, 526; November, 562;

December, 587.
Hot walls, 592. .
Hyacinths, January, 41 ; February,

103; March, 166: April, 216;

May, 279; June, 333 ; September,

456 ; November, 558 ; December,

579.

X.

Irar-jhii.g, see drafting, 23, 237,
353, 354.

'• "sects, 205, 421 ; destroy them on

trees, 273, 274 ; wasps, ants, flies,
&c, 453. *

K.

Kidney-beans raised in hot-house.
57; February, 73, 125; Decem-
ber, 550.

Kidney-beans, March, 151, April,
193 ; May, 251 ; June, 316 : July,
358. . :1» ■ ;

Kitchen garden esculent plants and
shrubs, list of, 596.

Kitchen-garden, January, 1 : Febru-
ary, 60; March, 127; April, 187;
May, 242; June, 303; July, 356;
August, 401; September, 439;
October, 472; November, 528;
December, 564.

L.

Laurels, 524.

Leeks, January, SO; March, 134;

April, 197; May, 257; July, 369.
Lemon-trees, see Oranges.
Lettuces, 9, 7S, 132, 191, 254,

255, 310, 362, 412, 444, 445,

475, 531, 565.
Liquorice, 87.

Lists of kitchen-garden, esculent
plants and herbs ; 595 ; trees, 623 ;
of taller growing deciduous trees
and shrubs, 616 ; of deciduous trees
and shrubs of lesser growth, 617;
of the taller evergreen trees and
shrubs, 620 ; of smaller evergreen
trees and shrubs, ibid.; of trees and
shrubs raised from seed, 621 ; of per-
ennial and biennial flower-plants,
627; of principal sorts raised from
seed, 630 ; of bulbous and tuberous-
rooted flower-plants, 630; of the
more curious and tender annuals,
635 ; of less tender or hardier kinds,
636; of hardy kinds, 637; of
green-house plants, 63S; of hot-
house piauts, 640.

Love-apples, 149, 200, 253, 320.

Lychnis, 28S, 380.

690

INDKX.

M.

Medlars, 549.

Melons, melon-ground in which to
make hotbeds for melons, &o., 3 ; in
frame hotbeds, 3, 4, 5 ; ridging out
of melons, 60 ; sowing seed in Fe-
bruary, 66; care in March, 127;
sow seed, 128 ; make new hotbeds,
129; under hand or bell-glasses,
129; management in April, 187,
188, 189; in May, 242; under
glasses and oiled-paper frames, 244 ;

- June, 303, 308 ; July, 366 ; ripen-
ing melons, August, 417.

Mint, January, 15; March, 148,
319; October, 482; December,
590.

Mulberries, 549.

Mushrooms, 439, 570.

Myrtles, February, 121; March,
182 ; April, 236 ; June 351.

N.

Nailing, 489.
Nasturtiums, 147, 198.
Nectarine. See Peaches.
Nursery, January, 50; February,

107; March, 176; April, 229;

May, 294 ; June, 344; July, 383;

August, 433; September, 464;

October, 520; November 559;

December, 584.
Nut-trees, planting, 548.

O.

Onions, February, 80; Munh, 134;

April, 197 ; May, 257 > June, 314 ;

July, 360, 364; Ai'guit, 403,

414; September, 450: November.

538, 542.
Oranges, 121, 181, 184, 300, 349,

390, 436, 525.
Ornamental trees and shrubs, list of

610.

P.

Parsley, January, J 5 ; February, 84 ;
March, 146, 150.

Parsneps, sowing, 79, 136, 190;
May, 256; June, 313; October,'
487; November, 536.

Peaches, pinning, &c, 26, 27; wa-
tering, in February, 97; pruning,
in March, 155, 157; June, 322;
inoculating, 327; in September,'
452; in November, 540.

Pears, January, 23; February, 89;
March, 156; May, 271; June,
323; September, 454; October,'
494 ; November, 545.

Peas, January, 20; February, 82;
March, 143; April, 202; May,'
262; June, 317; October, 474;
November, 529 ; December, 567.

Perennial plants, sowing, 167;
transplanting, 168; management
in April, 218; planting and pro-
pagating, 218; sowing, 220; trans-
planting, 290, 379, 430; planting,
559.

Pines, January, 56 ; February, 123 ;
March, 184, 185; April, 239,
240 ; May, 302 ; June, 355, 356,
397,398, 399,.400; August, 437;
propagating, 438 ; September, 469 ;
October, 526, 527; November,
562 ; December, 587, 588, 589.

Pinks, 337, 339, 341, 342, 426.

Planting, 35, 46; fruit-trees, 94,
154; directions for, 169, 204; fo-
rest-trees, 175; fruit-trees, 204,
454; standard fruit-trees, 546;
general fruit-trees, 550 ; forest and
ornamental trees', 556 ; fruit-trees.
578. .

Plums, 24 ; March, 156 ; May, 271 ;
June, 323 ; October, 494 ; stones,
434 : 467 ; November, 545.

Polyanthus, 102, 217, 287, 424.

Potatoes, 84 ; March, 151 ; April,
20?); October, 487; November,
do.

Pot-herbs, 146, 198, 199, 264, 319.
Propagating by layers, cuttings, &c,
53, 54, 107, 108, 184, 237;

INDEX.

691

stove exotics, 242 ; aromatic plants,
265 ; green-house plants, 300 ;
hardy exotic trees, &c, 351 ; hot-
house exotics, . 397 ; green-house
plants, 300 ; aromatics, 415; per-
ennial plants, 422; fibrous-rooted
perennials, 422 ; September, 463 ;
gooseberries and currants, 501;
layers, 466, 503; flowering shrubs,
516, 521 ; from roots, 5S1.

Protecting flowering trees, 37;
shrubs, 5S0; flowers, 166.

Pruning, January, 24, 3S ; Febru-
ary, 88, 89, 90, 91, 206; Octo-
ber, 489, 510, 523; November,
544, 547, 548, 551, 555, 560;
December, 574, 575, 577, 578,
580, 583.

Pumpkins, 203, 250.

Purslanes 145, 201.

0.

Quinces, 549.

R.

Radishes, care of them, in January,
11; February, 71; March, 135;
April, 192 ; May, 266 ; June, 311;
July, 363 ; August, 404 ; October,
486 ; November, 529 ; December,
566.

Ranunculusses, January, 41;
March, 167; June; 333; Septem-
ber, 457; November, 554; De-
cember, 579.
'Raspberries, 35, 36; February, 92;
October, 502, 503; November,
54S ; December, 578.

Rocambole, 83.

Rosemary, 147.

Roses, planting, 171 ; inoculating,
345, 388 ; propagating, 520, 521 ;
Hi hot-house, 590.

S.

Sage, 370.

Salading, small, 14; February, 73;
March, 145; April, 192; May,

255, 311; July,' 359; August

410; Septomber, 451; November,

530 ; December, 566.
Salsafy, 82, 150, 200, 258.
Savoys, 70, 195; May, 258, 26];

June, 318; July, 357; August,

403 ; September, 447.
Saxifrage, 423.

Scorzonera, 82, 150, .200, 258,
320.
Sea-kale, 203.

Seed-beds, management of, 2S0.
Seedling flowers, January, 45.
Sensitive plants, 377.
Shallots, 83. 150, 320, 365.
Snails, destroying, 273.
Snowdrops, January, 43.
Spinach, 13; February, 78; March,

133 ; April, 193 ; May, 256 ; June,

321; July, 362; August, 401;

September, 450; October, 480;

November, 535.
Stocks, 99, 215.

Stocks to bud and graft upon, 465,
523.

Strawberrios, January, 38; early,
in a hot-house, 59 ; February, 93 ;
March, 161; April, 210; May,
278; June, 327; September, 455;
October, 501; November, 448;
December, 591.

T.

Tansey, January, 15.
Tarragon, 482.

Transplanting flowering shrubs,
109 ; forest-trees, &c, 110; fruit-
trees, 111; evergreens, 170; young
trees and shrubs, 179 ; evergreens,
&c, 231 ; seedling firs, 347, 387 ;
perennials, 459 ; flowering-shrubs,
464 ; fruit-trees, 494 ; fibrous-root-
ed plants, 505 ; forest-trees 514.

Trees raised from seeds, lists of, 621.

Tuberoses, 220, 290.

Tulips, January, 41, 42; February,
103; May, 279, 280; June, 331;
September, 456 ; November, 558 ;
December, 579.

Turf, laying, 173.

Turnip, February, 87 ; March, 144,

692-

INDEX.

A}-!-:, 201 >, May, 256; Time,
313 , July, ' 361 ; August, - 417 ;
September, 151.

Y,

Vines, 32; February, !}] ; Majth,
1-50, 185;,A)iril, 20(\ 225, 240;
May, 276, 27;'; June, 326: July,
3 '.j; August, 418; September,
452; Ncr»emboi , 539; December,
574, 691.

!,' w.. ; . ^ "

'Walks, 48, 173, 226, 22?, 292,

343, 344, 582, 431, 511). 520,

557, 5S2.
Wall-floweis, 2S9.
Wall-trees, 269, 371; defending

them from insects, 453 ; plant 541 j

pruning, 57 4.
Walnuts, 54U
Wasps, destny, 373.
Wirter clierr), sowing.. 1S3,

BALSE BROTHERS, PRINTERS, U R ACEC H UR C H STREET.

1